Friday, August 14, 2009
Day 69, Skorpios, Greece
Look....there is Skorpios, an island in the Ionian Sea off the western coast of Greece and just to the east of the island of Lefkada. The island is heavily forested from south to north and features an abundant number of colorful trees.
Hey Nopi, isnt that the private island of the late Greek shipping billionaire Aristotle Onassis?
It was the site of his wedding to former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy on October 20, 1968.
Upon his death it passed to his daughter Christina, and then in turn to her daughter Athina Roussel.
Onassis, his son Alexander, and his daughter Christina are all buried on the island.
Little is known about Athina's relationship to her island, and she is believed to have spent very little time there.
There have been rumors published that she may sell it, and stories in financial publications have placed its value at over $200 million US.
Along with these rumors names like Madonna have arisen in being interested in buying the island.
Hmm, does anyone have some cash...a spare $200 million US, lying around???
No:-((((
Happy name day Nopi!!
We hope that you enjoyed the day:-))
Day 69, Zakynthos, The Ionian Islands, Greece
There are more pine-covered mountains and hills in the north, but the centre is gentle and lush, richly planted with currant vines, olive trees, almonds and seasonal vegetables.
There are dozens of beaches, sandy and sheltered with invitingly sparkling water.
Flowers of every kind fill every available space, filling the air with the scent that so enraptured visitors of old.
The rule "eat where the Greeks eat" applies here as in any other Greek island so Nopi has taken us to a local restaurant to try their famous skordostoumpi,a dish with aubergines and garlic and the meat dish sartsa, their cheeses, such as mytzithra and Ladotyri, and a good wine.
Zakynthos is known as the island of songs and serenade, and we were indeed serenaded by a group of of men at the restaurants.
Then we bought some local sweets, the Mandolato (sweet made of almonds) and Pastelia a sweet made from honey and sesame.....yummmy
And now we are taking a little boat from the small port of Porto Vromi.....
Where are we going to Nopi?
Nopi has a huge smile on her fce and can barely contain her excitement........we are going to the most famous beach of the island, the wonderful Navagio Beach (Shipwreck)
It is the trademark of the island!.
This superb beach is located in the eastern part of the island, close to the Anafotiria village. It was initially called Agios Georgios but the beach owns its new name to the shipwreck (in 1983) of a boat that transported illegal cigarettes; with the years the sand has completely surrounded the
ship which looks as if it was emerging of it. The remains of the ships can be seen in the middle of the large white sandy beach which has amazing turquoise and crystalline waters. Huge vertical cliffs of white rocks are surrounding the place creating a unique and wonderful image.
Thanks Nopi, this is stunning!
Day 68, Hydra, Greece
The island where there are NO CARS!! Garbage trucks are the only vehicles allowed on this island; horses, donkeys and water taxis are the only means of transport....and of course your legs!! Aaah, we are going to Hydra.
Hydra is an area of 52 sq. km. and is 6 nautical miles far from the NE coast of Argolida . It is a rocky mountain chain, 20 km length, and width from 1,5 km to 6 km . The island is thin and anhydrous, with highest crown the Ere( 592 m .)
The climate is mild with a cool summer and a soft winter. North winds mostly take off the sea fog and create a brilliant and clear horizon.
The town which is the centre of the whole island, is built amphitheatrically, around the port.
The name of Hydra is owed to the rich waters, which sprang out from the quarries which existed in the antiquity. The first residents of the island where the Dryopes. Historians mention the island by the name of Hydreas and in the interiors have been saved signs of ancient settlements. From very early, Hydra was used as a nautical station, and as a result, it starred in the sea commerce and communications.
Simple houses or country seats, differentiate from a quaint architecture which is not met in other Greek regions.
Orthogonal parallel piped with ceramic roof, flint cornice, high-ceiling with arches, with embossed interior decoration, and painted wooden ceilings.
There are 6 monasteries and 300 churches, and it will be wonderful to enjoy a leisurely walk in the narrows, graphical, paved alleys....but we really need to move along now....so Nopi is there any other island that we simply must visit?
Day 68, Mykonos, Cyclades, Greece
The island is composed primarily of granite.
It has little natural fresh water and relies on the desalination of sea water in order to meet its needs.
The island was once very poor, and the people tried to survive on fishing and stock breeding on the harsh land.
A major industry was also ship construction.
Tourism has turned the economy over since it started in the 1950's and the locals have a double attitude towards this: it may have saved the economy but some also feel that it has taken over too much.....and comparatively....this island seems too touristy......
With the exception of Mykonos town, Chora, all over Mykonos you will see the typical Cycladic cubist style of architecture.
Small, often single storey white cubes sprinkled over the landscape like little iced cakes. Mykonos town however offers a different architectural style that is unique in the area. Here, flanking the narrow winding streets are buildings reminiscent of a medieval style.
Every house is reached via a flight of straight steps, parallel to the road, whilst the space underneath these steps was traditionally kept for storage. Atop the steps is a wooden painted balcony that sometimes projects over the road to nearly touch the balcony of the house across the street.
Here too, you will find a change from the ubiquitous blue and white decor of Greece. In Mykonos town the wooden structures of every house are painted in a rainbow of colours, against the whitewashed walls and blue sky, the effect is absolutely delightful.
Just beneath the windmills is the area of Alefkandra, or 'little Venice'. Its original name Alefkandra derives from its original use as a laundry and it was here that the women of Mykonos washed their clothes.....Nopi says that the proximity of the homes to the water made it easy for the smugglers and pirates....
This beautiful island in the Cyclades, looks just like it does in the postcards: white little houses with flowers and blue windows and doors, hand painted streets, windmills, pigeon keepers, chimneys, lots of little churches and wonderful restaurants and cafes.......
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Day 67, from Serifos to Sifnos, Cyclades, Greece
Nopi said that in this place isolated homesteads can only be reached via a donkey track.
Serifos is known as "the barren one" and, according to legend, its one time king Polydeukes was turned to stone along with everything that was beautiful on the island. The island's fate was sealed by Perseus who was reputedly washed up on these rocky shores as a boy along with his mother Danae.
The pair were locked in a box and tossed into the sea by Danae's vengeful husband after she gave birth to Perseus by the all-powerful god Zeus. Danae's great beauty brought the unwanted attentions of the island's king so Perseus punished the lascivious Poly deukes by slaying the snake-haired Gorgon Medusa and brandishing her head before the king who was duly petrified.
Serifos Island is an island gem with numerous sandy beaches and a beautiful capital perched on the top of a steep hill.
The rocky coastline is deeply indented with an alteration of coves and bays....and certainly worth a visit if you are stressed and in need of some peace and quiet....
The next island in the vicinity is Sifnos, an island that was very wealthy in ancient times, thanks to its gold and silver mines. Proof of this, is the treasury which the Siphnians built at Delphi in the 6th century BC to house their offerings.
According to mythology, the locals would give a golden egg to Apollo each year, but when the gold mines were almost depleted, they tried to fool the god by painting as stone in stead. This angered the God so much, that he sent the tyrant Polycrates who took all precious metals from the island.
Due to the physiology of the island (rich clay veins, sunny weather and temperature) Sifnos has been traditionally the capital of pottery in the Aegean, with unique jars and pots that are a kind of "trademark" of the island. They are found frequently in the Sifnian everyday life, such as ashtrays, cooking and food vessels, "masteles", "foufoudes" (kind of chimneys) etc.
Locally, 'Sifnios' was a variant word for potter.
Initially the oldest potteries were found in central regions such as Artemon and Ano Petali to avoid pirate attacks
A surprisingly green island for the Cyclades, Sifnos offers a good variety of peace and quiet and things to do. Even though it is a popular island, both amongst Greeks and foreigners, it has kept its originality and is resisting the commercialisation many other islands have suffered.
Day 67, Paros, Cyclades, Greece
Paros has been inhabited since at least 4000BC. It started flourishing around 3000BC, and all over the Cyclades the Parian marble can be found from this time. The island was then called Minoa which indicates that the island's civilization was Minoan (Cretan) then. Later on, the Parian marble was to be used in Delphi, Delos and the temple of Poseidon in Sounio.
The earliest people living on the island was a tribe from Peloponnesos, the Arcades. Mixing with the Ionians they became a strong force in the area of the Cyclades. They traded their marble with the Phoenicians, and until the 6th century BC they had great power in the Aegean sea, with colonies on Thassos and other places.
Paros was defeated by Naxos at this time, and lost its position. It still held a strong cultural foothold though with a school for sculptors. When the Persian wars began, Paros initially fought with the Persians against Athens. After the Persian defeat at Salamis, Paros joined the Athenian league.
Towards the end of the Classical period Paros was ruled by Sparta, then the Macedonians and finally the Romans. Chistianity came to Paros around AD300.
During the Byzantine period Paros continued to be an important place because of its marbles, but around 900 the island was totally deserted when the Arabs invaded. It was repopulated though and came under Venetian rule in the beginning of the 13th century.
During the Turkish rule the islanders were heavily taxed, but allowed much freedom. The islanders built many churches and monasteries during this time. Paros took a strong part of the Greek revolution against the Turks in 1821 and was soon freed.
The two most famous names from Paros are Archilochus, lyrical poet in the 7th century BC, and Scopas, sculptor & architect from the 4th century BC.
We are going to a little fishing village Naoussa ....how picturesque....around the port and promenade we find many taverns, restaurants and cafes..
There are fishing boats everywhere, since fishing is the traditional source of income for the islanders.
The Parian marble is famous since ancient times, and has also provided the island with a good income.
There seems to be quite a buzz in the town.....Nopi says that they are preparing for the 23rd of August, when the people of Naoussa celebrate the victory over the Turkish pirate Barbarossa by reacting the events: 100 boats imitate the battle and the celebrating goes on until the morning after!
What a pity we won't be here then....
Day 67, Naxos, Cyclades, Greece
The uniqueness of Naxos is due to its varied landscape. It is an island with imposing mountains, verdant plateaux and valleys, rivers and springs, caves and large sandy beaches backed by sand dunes and cedar trees.
As we travel to Naxos, Nopi is giving us a little mythological and historical background.....
Zeus, the highest god, was born on Crete, but grew up on Naxos. The people of Naxos used to worship him, and a temple was made to his honour at the mountain Za (Zeus).
When Zeus' mistress Semele died before giving birth to their child, Zeus took the embryo and put it in his thigh. When the baby, Dionysus, was born out of Zeus thigh on Naxos, the nymphs Philia, Coronida and Clidi brought him up on the island, which was to be Dionysus favourite island. The god made the island fertile and full of grapevines, forever blessing it.
Another myth is about Ariadne, the daughter of king Minos of Crete. She had helped Theseus kill the Minotaur, and out of fear for her father, she fled with the hero. On Naxos she fell asleep, Theseus left her and when Dionysus saw her, he made her his wife. According to another version she committed suicide by jumping off a cliff in Chora.
Naxos was a centre for the Cyclades islands from 4000 to 1100 BC. The capital has always been Naxos (Chora), but it used to be called Calliopolis ('the best city") in ancient years. The island supposedly got its current name after the first ruler: king Naxos, but it has had different names through history: Dia ("Zeus"), Stroggyli ("round") and Dionysias. It held tights bonds with Santorini and Halkida, and together they founded the colony Naxos on Sicily in 734 BC.
In 501 BC Naxos was threatened by the Persians but managed to keep them away. Eleven years later the Persians succeeded in invading the island. In 479 BC Naxos became a member of the Delian League but left it in 466BC. The island became a vassal state to Athens until the city was defeated by the Spartans during the Peloponnesian War.
Naxos was to fall under many great states; once again under the Athenians, then the Macedonians, after that the Egyptians and finally it fell under Rhodes' power. In 41 BC the island was conquered by the Romans.
When the Venetians invaded the Cyclades islands in Greece ,Naxos fought for forty days at the Byzantine castro Apalyrou, but the islanders were finally defeated and was made center for the The Aegean Duchy under the Venetian Marcus Sanudos in 1207. The duke himself made a strong fortress and the Venetian rule lasted for 300 years. In 1564 the island was invaded by the Turks, but they basically just collected taxes from then on. The Venetian Rule was to be the main rule, which can be seen in the fact that there still are quite a few Catholics on the island. In May 1821 Naxos was liberated.
Nopi says that it was to be a temple to the god Apollo, but the building was abandoned when war broke out between Naxos and Samos.
Later, Christians built a church on top of the unfinished temple.
Hey Nopi, I can see another island from here.....Aaah, its Paros...let's go there too.
btw, did you know that Naxos has a special kind of sand that is used in making sand paper, and it is exported to many countries around the world??
day 67, Santorini, Cyclades, Greece
Today, Santorini is the only inhabited Caldera (volcano cauldron) in the world. Unlike other islands in Greece, the towns and villages sit densely on top of the massive cliffs of the Caldera and from a distance appear like snow capping the towering mountain tops.
The coloured strata of the volcanic rock of these cliffs are spectacular in themselves: chocolate brown, rust red, yellow ochre, white and cream.....a geological uniqueness, don't you think?
Santorini is definitely one of the great natural wonders of the world, and its main attraction is the landscape and seascape of the island itself.
There is Fira, the fiery capital, a marriage of Venetian and Cycladic architecture, whose white cobblestone streets bustle with shops, tavernas, hotels and cafes, while clinging to the rim of the caldera nine hundred f eet above the its port.
We have arrived at the port and now have 3 choices.....
-take a cable car up from the port,
-walk or
-take a trip on one of the hundreds of mules up the 588 zigzagging steps.
Nopi said that we could attempt to walk up the steps but be warned, they are winding, narrow in parts with only low walls, they are covered in donkey excrement and the donkeys themselves will make no attempt to avoid you!!
So we decided to take the donkeys instead of the cable car.....
Wow, the town of Fira is stunning.
The Cycladic Islands are world-famous for their picturesque towns of cubic white-washed homes and blue-domed churches.
SantorÃni is especially famous for the towns of Firá and OÃa, whose white and pastel-colored homes and churches-- seemingly stacked on top of each other-- are perched on the cliffs of the caldera.
Since many of these traditional homes are built on cliff-side caves, they have a much larger interior than their exterior would suggest.
The architecture of SantorÃni's picturesque towns is typically Cycladic, but with strong neoclassical and baroque influences visible in many of the island's churches and public buildings.
The landscape here --the blue sky, the little white houses perched on gigantic rocks on hills that plummet to the sea, the lemon and orange groves, the pink and white churches that look like pastry cakes, the faces and warmth and expressiveness of the Greek people -- little wonder this may be the most photographed scenery in the world.
Where are the guys?? We didn't notice that they had disappeared!
Oh, Nopi says that Amit and Feroz have gone diving.....there are dive sites that include a wreck near the volcano!!
Oh, wow, that sounds exciting.....
Hmmm, did you notice that Santorini's beaches have black sand?
The island has no natural source of fresh water. Prior to the early 1990's, it was necessary for water to be delivered to the island via tanker from Crete. However, most hotels and homes now have access to non-potable running water for washing and cleaning that is provided by a local desalination plant. So Nopi insisted that all of us drink bottled water at all times while visiting Santorini....yes Mam!
Nopi is hungry.....and the Santorini specials include: the white aubergine; fava; caper; a variety of ntomatokeftedes, with whole slices of tomatoes fried in batter...etc, etc
I love cherry tomatoes.... and want them in my salad.....Nopi loves the fava beans and squid...and the ones here in Santorini are supposed to be the best in Greece
Kali orexi!
Nopi recommended fresh fish grilled in a taverna, overlooking the caldera.....but the prices are exorbitant...not because the food portions are big....but it is because you are paying for the view....but what a view it is!!
We settled for a picnic basket of local specialities...from a family run fish tavern and made our way to the quintessentially Santorininian town of Ia, (just above Fira at the highest point of the island) also sometimes spelled Oia, with its whitewashed walls sunk into the volcanic rock and its blue domes rising above the sterling beauty of the stunning, russet Ammoudi Bay.
Dusk is approaching ...so we are going to make our way to the best possible spot.....to have our picnic...and to watch the legendary sunset in Oia, reputed to be among the world's most beautiful.
Oh my gosh, wow....this sunset .... viewed from the Caldera, really is breathtakingly beautiful when seen as a backdrop to the volcano. The colours that streak the sky change from lilac to deep purple, from yellow to orange to red, as the golden sun sinks and becomes blood red reflecting its light on to the sea and the surrounding little islands.
What an amazing this experience this has been......a donkey ride.....the healthiest, freshest Mediterranean meal...and the perfect sunset.....aaaah, isn't Santorini simply wonderful?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGHXB4iU2M8
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Day 66,Rhodes,Dodecanese, Greece
Named the sun island or island of light there are hardly any days when the sun doesn't shine ....hmmm, we have had bad luck....
Nopi says that we have been kind of EVIL EYED.....
Please explain Nopi.
The belief in the Evil Eye is an ancient superstition that you will meet in many cultures: the countries around the Mediterranean sea, Arabia, Turkey and all the way to India.
The Evil Eye is a kind of negative power we all more or less carry within ourselves. If we stare too long on a person, animal or even an object we may inflict damage through this power. It is often totally unconsciously, but the staring in itself often comes from admiration or envy, which are perfect channels for the Evil Eye
The victim will suddenly get a headache, a dizzy spell, faint, fall ill or even die, depending on the Evil Eye's strength and the victims' susceptibility.
To get rid of the spell, you will have to find a person that can break it. Usually it is a woman, since this ability is traditionally passed on from mother to daughter.
The first thing she will have to do is to check if you really have been struck by the Evil Eye or if you just have a hangover or haven't had enough sleep. To do this, she will put a few drops of olive oil in a cup of holy water.
If the oil stays on the surface you are OK. Take an aspirin and go home. If the oil dissolves then you have been EVIL EYED (yes, it is a verb in Greek).
Now the spell must be broken. The person who will break it will read prayers, make crosses on your forehead and hands with the oil and water, do the cross-sign several times and sometimes stand quiet for a short while. Then the spell is broken and you feel fine.
The strength of the mind? Will power? Magic? Well, just in case, you can always take some measures to ward off the Evil Eye.
Even though the Orthodox church says that the only things that can really protect you are crucifixes and icons from monasteries and churches (as opposed to souvenir shops) and first and foremost true faith, many Greeks hang little blue eyes around their necks and wrists.
Blue stones are also good, since the colour blue is considered a protective colour. You can also hang garlic on your car, boat or house.
If you want to pay someone a compliment you can ward off the Evil Eye you might be sending by spitting three times at them. It won't give you a popularity price, but many believe it works!
Wow, Nopi, that is quite a story....but none of us are ill...we are just having bad weather......but let's buy some Nazar Boncugu bracelets as the Turks call it.....just to be on the safe side...... so now one will cast an evil eye on our journey....
By the way...did you know that the The Order of St John of Jerusalem occupied Rhodes from 1309 to 1523 and set about transforming the city into a stronghold?
It subsequently came under Turkish and Italian rule.
With the Palace of the Grand Masters, the Great Hospital and the Street of the Knights, the Upper Town is one of the most beautiful urban ensembles of the Gothic period.
In the Lower Town, Gothic architecture coexists with mosques, public baths and other buildings dating from the Ottoman period.
Very impressive monuments indeed...and deservedly a UNESCO WHS.
Let's hope that we are going to have glorious sunshine in our next port of call......then we will know that our blue beads are working its magic........
Day 66, Northeastern Aegean Island of Samos, Greece
The island offers a mild climate all year round, with warm winters and not very hot summers.
Being the home island of Pythagoras and Aristarchos, and many other great people of Arts and Sciences, Samos accommodates the University of the Aegean many other scientific and cultural events.
Many civilizations have inhabited this small Aegean island, near Asia Minor, since the 3rd millennium B.C.
Famous musicians and theatrical schemes from all over the world perform here every summer (July-Sept) at the Kalomiris Festival.....so who was " MANOLIS KALOMIRIS "?.
Born in Smyrna to a family whose origins are in Samos, he composed more than 220 works which cover a variety of musical idioms.
Day 66, Skiathos, Sporades, Greece
This is the most western island of the Northern Sporades the total size is about 42 km (sq).
Amit has heard all about Skiathos' 60 beaches...and he specifically wants to go to the famous nudist Banana Beach at the end of island!!
We know that you prefer the naturist lifestyle, Amit!!
There are several monasteries here too.... Evangelistra, Kounistra, Xaralambros and Kechria. All these monasteries are very important to people of Skiathos as remains of their history and spirit that suffered during the ages - mainly later during the Ottoman rule.
A really beautiful destination........no, Amit, we are not leaving you here.....Samos awaits.....
En route....Nopi taught us a little Greek.....
Day 66, Skopelos, the Sporades, Greece
Sadly, most beaches on the island are pebble beaches.
Skopelos means "rocky" which is a good description for this mountainous island.
We do not know who where the first inhabitants of the island, but tradition has it that the island was first occupied by Cretans in Minoan times. According to mythology, prince Stafylos was the son of Ariadne and Theseus or the god Dionysus and supposedly came to Skopelos and settled with his people. His name means "grape", and the island has been known since ancient times as a great wine producer. An ancient tomb in the Staphylos area is believed by many to have belonged to the king. Just like the neighbouring islands, Skopelos was to fall both under Athenian, Spartan and Macedonian rule, as well as Roman.
When the Romans were approaching in the 2nd century BC, the Macedonian king Philip III destroyed much of the island so the Romans wouldn't get anything. Even so, the Romans invaded, but left Skopelos pretty much alone as long as it paid its taxes.|
In the 13th century the Sporadic islands were conquered by the Venetians and in the 16th century the Turks invaded and ruled it. There were also many pirate attacks and the people tried to seek refuge in the many churches they built.
Another theory has to do with the many pirate raids and Turkish attacks that the island suffered. The enemies were usually Moslem, but even though they were considered harsh barbarians, they respected the holy ground of the Christians. Therefore many churches were built so the people would have a hideout whenever the island was attacked.
We climbed to the 16th century Metamorphosis, which stands aloft in a clutch of pines. It was been empty for around 20 years but is undergoing a revamp with just one monk in residence now. It has a small chapel set in a flower strewn courtyard and hosts one of the island's biggest festivals on August 6...aaaw...we have just missed it.
The island was at its most prosperous in the 18th and 19th centuries when merchants traded throughout the region. Between 1821 and 1826, local boats helped in the struggle for Greek independence against the Turks. It was during this time that the island population soared as it became a refuge for those fleeing from the mainland with a reported 70,000 refugees at one time. Skopelos joined the new Greek state in 1830.
Amit and Feroz have returned from their trip...and they are so excited!!! Oh wow, they saw dolphins and seals......
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Day 65, The Greek Isles
The Northeastern Aegean Islands: Agios Efstratios, Thasos, Ikaria, Lesvos,Limnos, Inousses, Samos, Samothrace, Chios, Psara.
The Sporades: Alonissos, Skiathos, Skopelos, Skyros
Naxos, Paros, Santorini, Serifos, Sikinos, Sifnos, Syros, Tinos, Folegandros, as well as the "Minor Cyclades" comprising Donousa, Irakleia,
Koufonisia and Schinoussa.
The Ionian Sea is home to one sole island group:
The Ionian Islands: Zakynthos, Ithaca, Corfu, Cephallonia, Lefkada, Paxi, Antipaxi, Ereikoussa, Mathraki, Meganissi, Othoni, Strofades.
These islands, together with Kythira, which is however cut-off from the rest, opposite the southern Peloponnese (Lakonia), as well as neighbouring Antikythira, they constitute the Eptanissa.
The islands of Gavdos (situated south of Crete), Elafonissos (in the Gulf of Laconia) and Trizonis (in the Gulf of Corinth), although not forming part of any group, are of unparalleled natural beauty.