Showing posts with label europe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label europe. Show all posts

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Day 74, flying over London

I believe that our Parisian experience will be one of the most unforgettable trips of this journey....sadly we must now say au revoir to France.

As we make our way to our next destination, Sita and Amit are nagging me
..... they were so impressed with Paris at night that they want to see London, (Mumbai's sister city) at night too.......
Ok , we will make a little detour for you....we will fly over London tonight....
And there is London..in all its glory...

Oh, wow, this is like a scene out of a Harry Potter movie, remember the Order of the Phoenix??? Aaaawesome!!!!!


There is Piccadilly Circus, a famous road junction and public space of London's West End in the City of Westminster, built in 1819 to connect Regent Street with the major shopping street of Piccadilly.

The Circus is particularly known for its video display and neon signs mounted on the corner building on the northern side, as well as the Shaftesbury memorial fountain and statue of an archer popularly known as Eros (sometimes called The Angel of Christian Charity, but intended to be Anteros).


And there is the famous Tower Bridge, an iconic symbol of London!

It is a combined bascule and suspension bridge over the River Thames.
The bridge consists of two towers which are tied together at the upper level by means of two horizontal walkways.

And there is the London Eye, and also known as the Millennium Wheel.
At a height of 135 metres (443 ft),it is the largest Ferris wheel in Europe!!

The wheel carries 32 sealed and air-conditioned egg-shaped passenger capsules, attached to its external circumference, each capsule representing one of the London Boroughs.

Each 10 tonne capsule holds 25 people, who are free to walk around inside the capsule, though seating is provided.
It rotates at 26 cm (10 in) per second (about 0.9 km/h (0.6 mph) so that one revolution takes about 30 minutes.
Pretty cool huh?

Well guys, now its finally time to say goodbye to Europe as we head for the Middle East.

Cheerio London.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Day 73, Porto, Portugal

We are now flying over Portugal….. since Amit wants to spend a fair bit of time in Paris...we wont stop over in Portugal.......

At the mouth of the Rio Douro, the hilly city of Porto presents a jumble of styles, eras and attitudes: narrow medieval alleyways, extravagant baroque churches, prim little squares, and wide boulevards lined with stately beaux-arts edifices.

Oh, look, there is the Dom Luís 1st Bridge, an arch bridge that spans the Douro River between the cities of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia.
At the time of construction its span of 172 m was the longest of its type in the world.
The Government held a competition for the construction of a metallic bridge on the Douro River on a site that was adjacent to an existing bridge and would replace it.

The construction was begun in 1881 and the bridge opened on 1886-10-31.

Total length 385.25 m
Weight 3045 tons
The arch measures 172 m in length and 44.6 m in height


Porto’s historic centre is the Ribeira district, a Unesco World Heritage zone of winding lanes, zigzagging staircases and tiled churches peering around every corner. Old traditions live on as tripeiros (Porto residents) mingle before old storefronts, on village-style plazas and in the old houses of commerce where Roman ruins lurk beneath the foundations. On the downside, here and in other parts of the city centre stand many dilapidated early-20th-century town houses, left to crumble as the young flee to the sprawling suburbs by the sea.


Porto put the ‘Portu’ in Portugal . The name dates from Roman times, when Lusitanian settlements straddled both sides of the Douro’s banks. The area was briefly in the hands of Moors but was reconquered by AD 1000 and reorganised as the county of Portucale, with Porto as its capital. British-born Henri of Burgundy was granted the land in 1095, and it was from here that Henri’s son and Portuguese hero Afonso Henriques launched the Reconquista (Christian reconquest), ultimately winning Portugal its status as an independent kingdom.




Today, the city remains the economic capital of northern Portugal and is surpassed only by much-larger Lisbon in terms of economic and social clout.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MA59kCsUXIg

OK, Amit , at long last....our next destination.........Paris, France!

Day 73, Pamplona, Spain

Oh, wow guys, there is Pamplona (Basque: Iruña), capital of the fiercely independent Navarra.


The Romans called the city Pompaelo, after its founder Pompey the Great. They were succeeded by the Visigoths and then, briefly, by the Muslims.
Navarra has been a melting pot of dynastic, political and cultural aspirations and tensions, ever since Charlemagne rampaged across the Pyrenees from France in 778.
The city achieved great things under Sancho III in the 11th century and its position on the Camino de Santiago ensured its prosperity.
Pamplona is the home of Los Sanfermines (Fiesta de San Fermín) one of the most riotous and extreme festivals in Europe!!



At the heart of the festival is El Encierro, the Running of the Bulls, an activity that many other countries would have banned years ago because of the perceived cruelty to animals and danger to people……..nooo, we won’t be watching this……since the festival was held in July already

Monday, August 17, 2009

Day 71 , Dolomiti, Italy

Sita is begging me to make another stop over in Italy ....she wants to see the Dolomites......

The Dolomites, a section of the Alps, located for the most part in the province of Belluno, the rest in the provinces of Bolzano-Bozen and Trento (all in north-eastern Italy).
Conventionally they extend from the Adige river in the west to the Piave valley (Pieve di Cadore) in the east.

The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley (Val Sugana).

But the Dolomites spread also over the Piave river (Dolomiti d'Oltrepiave) to the east; and far away over the Adige river to the west is the Brenta Group (Western Dolomites); there is also another smaller group called Piccole Dolomiti (Small Dolomites) located between the Provinces of Trento and Vicenza.

Why do you want to see the Dolomites Sita?
It features some of the most beautiful mountain landscapes anywhere,with vertical walls, sheer cliffs and a high density of narrow, deep and long valleys.

A serial property of nine areas that present a diversity of spectacular landscapes of international significance for geomorphology marked by steeples, pinnacles and rock walls, the site also contains glacial landforms and karst systems.

It is characterized by dynamic processes with frequent landslides, floods and avalanches. The property also features one of the best examples of the preservation of Mesozoic carbonate platform systems, with fossil records.

Okay, let's go on a hike
The range and its characteristic rock take their name from the 18th-century French geologist Dieudonné Dolomieu, who made the first scientific study of the region and its geology. Geologically, the mountains are formed of light-coloured dolomitic limestone, which erosion has carved into grotesque shapes. Formed 200millions years ago out of the primeval ocean, today they reach 3,000 metres into the sky.
I want to touch this rock....oh, my word, a salty powder comes off the fingers, a reminder that the Dolomites originated aeons ago as coral reefs under the sea!


These landforms include jagged, saw-edged ridges, rocky pinnacles, screes (pebble deposits) of limestone debris, deep gorges, and numerous steep rock faces at relatively low levels.

Glaciated features occur at higher levels; many glaciers lie in the region. Many of the lower and more gentle scree slopes were once forested; only patches of woodland remain,however, interspersed with grassy meadows.


Name metres feet Name metres feet
Marmolada 3344 10,972 Pale di San Martino 2996 9831
Antelao 3264 10,706 Rose ngartenspitze / Catinaccio 2981 9781
Tofana di Mezzo 3241 10,633 Marmarole 2961 9715
Punta Sorapis 3229 10,594 Cima di Fradusta 2941 9649
Monte Civetta 3220 10,564 Monte Agner 2872 9416
Vernel 3145 10,319 Fermedaturm 2867 9407
Cristallo 3221
Cima d'Asta 2848 9344
Cima di Vezzana 3192 10,470 Cima di Canali 2846 9338
Cimon della Pala 3184 10,453 Croda Grande 2839 9315
Langkofel / Sassolungo 3181 10,427 Vajoletturm / Torri del Vajolet (highest) 2821 9256
Pelmo 3169 10,397 Sass Maor 2816 9239
Dreischusterspitze 3162 10,375 Cima di Ball 2783 9131
Boespitze / Piz Boè (Sella group) 3152 10,342 Cima della Madonna (Sass Maor) 2751 9026
Croda Rossa (Hohe Gaisl) 3148 10,329 Rosetta 2741 8993
Piz Popena 3143 10,312 Croda da Lago 2716 8911
Elferkofel 3115 10,220 Central Grasleitenspitze 2705 8875
Grohmannspitze (Langkofel) 3111 10,207 Schlern 2562 8406
Zwölferkofel 3091 10,142 Sasso di Mur 2554 8380
Sass Rigais (Geislerspitzen) 3027 9932 Cima delle Dodici 2338 7671
Tre Cime di Lavaredo 3003 9853 Monte Pavione 2336 7664
Kesselkogel (Rosengarten) 3001 9846 Cima di Posta 2235 7333
Fünffingerspitze 2997 9833 Monte Pasubio 2232 7323
The Dolomites are celebrated not for their height but for their grotesque yet beautiful forms. In the setting sun they glow red, mauve and purple in the darkening sky........

truly another wonder of Nature and deservedly a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Compared to other mountains we have seen these seem brighter, more colorful, more monumental, and they certainly seem to be architecturally inspired.




day 71,San Marino

We are now flying over San Marino,Europe's smallest independent republic.....aaah, there is Piazza della Libertà.


Standing proudly at the centre of the Square is the Statue of Liberty given to the country by Countess Otilia Heyroth Wagener in 1876.
The Government Building (Palazzo Pubblico) dates back to 1380 and houses the Great and General Council (the San Marino Parliament).
Rebuilt in neo-Gothic style in the late 19th century, the inauguration speech was given by Giosuè Carducci.
Did you know that inside the building, in the large hall containing 60 high-backed chairs on which the Councillors sit, and the throne of the Captains Regent, is a large painting by Emilio Retrosi depicting an allegory of the founder Saint of the Republic?

Day 71, The Vatican

Oh, there is the world’s smallest sovereign state (a mere 0.44 sq km)!!

The Vatican sits atop the low-lying Vatican hill just a few hundred metres west of the River Tiber.
Centred on the domed bulk of St Peter’s Basilica and Piazza San Pietro, it is the capital of the Catholic world, a spiritual superpower whose law is gospel to the world’s one billion Catholics.
The flamboyantly dressed Swiss Guards were founded in 1506 by Julius II to defend the Papal States against invading armies and are still today responsible for the pope’s personal security.
The Vatican’s current look is the culmination of more than 1000 years of chipping and chopping.
The Leonine walls date to 846, when Pope Leo IV had them put up after a series of Saracen raids, while the Vatican palace, now home to the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel, was originally constructed by Pope Eugenius III in the 12th century.
Subsequent popes extended, fortified and decorated it according to their political and artistic whims.
The original 4th-century St Peter’s Basilica was almost entirely rebuilt in the 16th century by a phalanx of Renaissance greats – Bramante, Raphael, Antonio da Sangallo and Michelangelo.
Later Giacomo della Porta and Carlo Maderno added further contributions.
Outside, Piazza San Pietro was designed by the baroque genius Gian Lorenzo Bernini
Yes, yes, I know that all of you want to go inside.

Nopi wants to see the Pieta.

Sita wants to see the Sistine Chapel

but guys you know that we are really pressed for time, so we will have to move on.

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Day 70, the megalithic temples of Malta

Okey dokey guys...we are now flying over Malta.....


There are the Tarxien Temples are an archaeological complex in Tarxien, Malta. They date back to approximately 2800 BC. The site was accepted as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980 along with the six other Megalithic temples on the island of Malta.

The Tarxien consist of three separate, but attached, temple structures. The main entrance is a reconstruction dating from 1956, when the whole site was res tored. At the same time, many of the decorated slabs discovered on site were relocated indoors for protection at the Museum of Archaeology in Valletta. The first temple has been dated to approximately 3100 BC and is the most elaborately decorated of the temples of Malta. The middle temple dates to abo ut 3000 BC, and is unique in that, unlike the rest of the Maltese temples, it has three pairs of apses instead of the usual two. The east temple is dated at around 3100 BC. The remains of another temple, smaller, and older, having been dated to 3250 BC, are visible further towards the east.

Of particular interest at the temple site is the rich and intricate stonework, which includes depictions of domestic animals carved in relief, altars, and screens decorated with spiral designs and other patterns. Demonstrative of the skill of the builders is a chamber set into the thickness of the wall between the South and Central temples and containing a relief showing a bull and a sow.


Excavation of the site reveals that it was used ext
ensively for rituals,which probably involved animal sacrifice. Especially interesting is that Tarxien provides rare insight into how the megaliths were constructed: stone rollers were left outside the South temple. Additionally, evidence of cremation has been found at the center of the South temple, which is an indicator that the site was reused as a Bronze Age cremation cemetery.


The prehistoric temples of Malta are unique in all the world. They are the oldest standing stone structures which remain to us from ancient times. The temples date from 4000 - 2500 BC. They are older than Stonehenge, older than the Pyramids. Their architecture is beautiful and inspiring, their scale impressive yet human. Excellently preserved, they were covered with soil from early times and ignored by the long march of history. They were rediscovered and carefully restored by European and native Maltese archaeologists beginning in the 19th century.

Little is known about the people who built these megalithic temples. The original inhabitants of the Maltese Islands probably crossed over by sea from Sicily, which lies 58 miles to the north, sometime before 5000 BC. The temple builders were farmers who grew cereals and raised domestic livestock. They worshipped a mother goddess whose type is known from early statuettes found scattered around the Mediterranean. Similar statues are also found on Malta, several being of uniquely large size.

Although the temples are large in overall extent, the interior chambers do not have enough room to hold more than a few people at one time. Therefore public worship in large groups, as practiced in typical churches and temples today, would not have been possible. It is likely that the priests and priestesses carried out rites inside the temples, and the public was not invited.

The worship of a Mother Goddess is usually associated with female priestesses, although male figures which may represent priests have also been found.

Hmmm, Mother Goddess...animal sacrice....guys....sounds vaguely familiar??? Mother Kali worship??

Did individual worshippers participate in ceremonies related to important events in their lives - birth, puberty, marriage, sickness, death?

Did community leaders consult the temples about planting and sowing, community disputes, food stores, or new settlements? Were the temple leaders also the political rulers of the community?

People are still searching for answers to questions such as these, for the first inhabitants of Malta left no writing behind them when they vanished, as mysteriously as they had first appeared, sometime around 2500 BC.

The Maltese temples are constructed of stone, in a cloverleaf (trefoil) floor plan. Their typical architectural elements include the incomplete dome and the horizontal arch, or post-and-lintel trilithon. The curvatures of the temples perhaps elaborate the circular plan of ordinary dwellings of the time, but are also reminiscent of underground burial chambers.

Due to the size and complexity of the temples, and the extensive resources which must have been required to build and maintain them, they must h

ave played a very important part in the ongoing life of the community. Without more evidence, though, we can only wonder and admire, across the gap of millennia that separates us from the temple builders.

Hey guys, I just received a call from Mel who said that we cannot leave Malta without a visit to the Blue Grotto....so lets go.
Where??
We are going to the The Blue Grotto, known as Il-Hnejja (meaning 'The Arch') in Maltese.

Yes, I know that this is Malta, not Capri, but the name was given its English name by a British soldier who thought it similar enough to Grotta Azzuzza (The Blue grotto) in Capri to deserve the same name.
Wow, our boat has entered under an immense arch into a 140ft high cave cut into the rock face. This is so cool...the system consists of six caves carved by years of relentless pounding by the sea, of which the Blue Grotto is the largest and most impressive.
The water seems an impossible cobalt colour as the sky reflects off the white sand bottom. The caves sparkle both with blue reflections of the sea and orange, purple and green of the various minerals present in the rocks.
Thanks Mel...this was really beautiful.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Day 66, Patmos; The Dodecanese; Greece

Our next destination is Patmos...not a big island, but it is one of the best known.
It was here St. John had his vision and wrote the apocalypse, and this is why Patmos is sometimes called "The Jerusalem of the Aegean".

The Monastery of St. John the Theologian with its priceless treasures, and the preservation of the traditional village of Chora, that was built in the Middle Ages and the Cave of the Apocalypse were the main reasons that Patmos is listed as a UNESCO WHS.

At the beginning each September, the prefectural government of the Dodecanese in cooperation with the municipality of Patmos and the monastery organize an international festival of religious music in the open air of the Cave of the Apocalypse, which lasts 10 days with the participation of choirs, orchestras and other musical ensembles from Greece and foreign interpret works of classical and contemporary music with a common religious sentiment.....oops we are a little early for this unfortunately.


Nopi, our Greek mythology fundi says that according to mythology, Patmos was a present from Zeus to his daughter Artemis, goddess of hunting and young women. She was worshipped here in antiquity, and the monastery of St. John was built on her temple.


The island has probably been inhabited since prehistoric times, and it went through the same changes as the rest of the Dodecanese. It paid tribute to Athens in the 5th century BC, belonged to the Macedonians in the 4th century BC, and was taken by the Romans in the 2nd century BC.

The Romans used Patmos as a place for exiles, and that's how St. John ended up here. He was ostracized from Miletus by the Roman governor for preaching the Christian faith in AD95, and stayed here for two years. The island was practically deserted during Byzantine years and was given to a monk named Christodoulos in 1088, and he started planning the monastery.


In the 11th century the work on the monastery started, and its power was to extend over the island's borders, to such a degree that the island was never occupied by neither Turks nor Venetians. The only attacks came from pirates now and again.

In 1912 the island was invaded by Italian forces, and libera
ted in 1948.

Its real name is Agios Ioannis o Theologos ("St. John the Theologist") ....actually it looks more like a huge fortress than a monastery.....

In fact, it was built as a fortress in the 16th century, since the island needed some sort of defense when pirates attacked.

Nopi told us that when visiting a monastery, the women must wear long skirts and have covered shoulders; and the men must wear long trousers.....oops Amit and Feroz are in their shorts......

Hey guys....is this an excuse to leave us and go windsurfing or are you perhaps going to Psili Ammos, the nudist beach??
Ok, we will catch up with you later..

In the monastery we visited the Byzantine church decorated with exquisite style frescoes and the Byzantine icon of St John, donated to the monastery by the emperor of Byzantium Alexios Komninos.

In a crypt inside the the church are the relics of the blessed monk Christodoulos, the treasury and the museum.

The two chapels next to the church of St. John are dedicated one to the Virgin Mary and the other to the blessed Christodoulos.

The Cave of Revelation lies between Chora and Skala and is where St. John had his vision.

There is a crack in the roof where Jesus appeared to him and John dictated his vision to his disciple Prochorus.
In the cave we saw a cross engraved on the rock which, according to tradition, was made by Saint John.
The Cave is surrounded by the monastery, which stands out with its white colour.
A few steps carved in the rock leads in to the monastery.

That was pretty amazing.......now let's do some shopping girls

We bought many handmade things on the island, but the typical souvenirs are related to St.John, though, and icons are sold everywhere.

The guys have rejoined us .....it's dinner time....
Local specialties are different dishes of fish and seafood such as squid stuffed with rice, octopus stew and octopus grilled as well as local cheeses and sweets......

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Day 65 , some UNESCO sites of Cyprus

We are now off to Cyprus....
Steeped in history and mythology, the beautiful Mediterranean island of Cyprus boasts a wealth of archeological treasures, many of which date back thousands of years.
Located atop a hill in the valley of the Maroni River, the ancient settlement of Choirokoitia (also known as Khirokitia) provides a fascinating insight into Neolithic culture. Occupie
d from the 7th to the 4th millennium BC, the village is one of the most important and best preserved prehistoric sites in the eastern Mediterranean. It was added to the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List in 1998.

Excavations dating back to the early 1930s have brought to light one of the earliest Neolithic cultures in the world and the beginnings of civilisation in Cyprus, divulging a wealth o
f information about the village inhabitants and their daily lives. The origin of the Neolithic Cypriots is not known for certain, but it is possible that the Neolithic villages on the island were a result of colonization from the Middle East.

The beehive-shaped stone houses were believed to belong to primitive farmers, who spent their days farming wheat and barley in the surrounding lands in addition to herding cattle and hunting with stone tools. Women were engaged in spindling, weaving cloths and making pottery, which was beaut ifully decorated. Flint blades, implements, pottery and many other archaeological findings from Choirokoitia are displaye d in the Cyprus Museum.

We explored the circular stone dwellings and numerous tombs (dating back to 7000 BC) that lie within the settlement's thick fortified stone wall.

Although much of the site lies in ruins, four of the house s have been reconstructed from local mud and stone so we could see how these early farmers lived.

The huts are not very high, signifying that the Neolithic Cypriots were short and sturdy.
On average, the men were about 1.6m tall and the women were about 1.5m tall. Life expectancy was very short, the average age of death being around 34 years, and th ere was a high infant mortality rate. It was customary to bury the dead under the floors of the houses of the living relatives, keeping them close in death as in life.
A visit to this unique open-air museum was an ideal way to immerse ourselves in Cyprus' ancient history and rich cultural heritage.

Next stop....we are off to see teh painted churches of the Troodos region....
There are actually nine churches and one monastery in Troodos that are counted among UNESCO's World Heritage Sites in this area.
The nine Byzantine churches are:
1)Panayia tou Araka

2)Timiou Stavrou at Pelendri

3)Ayios Nikolaos tis Stegis
4)Panayia Podithou
5)Assinou
6)Ayios loannis Lampadistis
7)Panayia tou Moutoula
8)Archangel Michael at Pedhoulas
9)Stavros tou Ayiasmati
The area has been known since ancient times for its copper mines, and in the Byzantine period it became a great centre of Byzantine art, as churches and monasteries were built in the mountains, away from the threatened coastline.

day 65, from Macedonia to Albania

We are now flying over Ohrid, a city on the eastern shore of Lake Ohrid in the Republic of Macedonia.

Did you know that Ohrid is notable for having once had 365 churches, one for each day of the year, and is referred to as the Macedonian Jerusalem??

The city is so rich in picturesque houses and monuments, and that lake looks really inviting guys....


In 1980, Ohrid and Lake Ohrid were accepted as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

The town of Ohrid is one of the oldest human settlements in Europe.
Built mainly between the 7th and 19th centuries, it has the old
est Slav monastery (St Pantelejmon) and more than 800 Byzantine-style icons dating from the 11 th to the end of the 14th century.
The monastery is believed to have been built when Saint Clement arrived in Ohrid, at the request of Boris I of Bulgaria and restored an old church. Sources say that Saint Clement was not satisfied with the size of the church and therefore built a new one over it and assigned Saint Panteleimon as its patron saint.

Saint Clement used his newly created monastery as a liturgical building and a place for teaching his disciples his variation of the Glagolitic alphabet, known as the Cyrillic alphabet. Clement personally built a crypt inside the monastery in which he was buried after his death in 916, his tomb still exists today.
After those of the Tretiakov Gallery in Moscow, this is considered
to be the most important collection of icons in the world.

No stop over guys?

Okay, we will move on then to Butrint in Albania.....

Butrint is an ancient Greek city and an archeological site in Sarandë District of Albania.
It is located on a hill overlooking the Vivari Channel.

Inhabited since prehistoric times, Butrint is one of the most important archaeological sites in the country with an archaeological sequence that runs from the Bronze Age to the 19th century.

A number of major monuments are still extant, the city walls, Great basilica, theatre, Venetian castles and the finest building on the site is the Early Christian Baptistry, one of the most important and best preserved paleo-Christian monuments in the whole Adriatic region.


By the 5th century AD Christianity was flourishing at Butrint and the city had its own bishop. The Baptistery and the Great Basilica were constructed in the early 6th century. The Baptistery was discovered in 1928 by the Italian Archaeological mission. It is the second largest baptistery in the Eastern Roman Empire, the largest being that of Hagia Sofia in Istanbul.


Every aspect of the architecture and decoration of the Baptistery is symbolic of the baptismal rite, with the fountain on the far side of the Baptistery representing the fountain of eternal life.
The intricate brightly coloured mosaic has representations of land (animals), air (birds), and water (fish), symbolizing aspects of Christian salvation.

The main entrance has two large peacocks in a vine growing from a great vase. The peacocks symbolise paradise and immortality, and the vase and grapes, the Eucharist and the blood of Christ.

In addition to the archaeological remains the site is robed in natural woodland with a complex ecosystem that depends on the nearby presence of the freshwater Lake Butrint and Vivari Channel which drains the Lake into the Ionian Sea.

It is this combination of historic monuments and natural environment that makes Butrint such a unique place, a 'landscape with monuments' .

The Butrint National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is no longer on the endangered list.

Nobody wants to stop....I am surprised......aaah, all of us want to ensure that we complete this journey around the world in 80 days.......ok....let's move on.....

Monday, August 10, 2009

Day 64, Rila Monastery,Bulgaria

We are now going to Bulgaria........

Wow, there are several UNESCO world heritage sites here

.....so we have chosen to visit just one.....the Rila Monastery........

Our very well informed tour guide has given us enthusiastically shared a wealth of information with us........
The monastery was founded in the 10th century as a colony for hermits.

Ivan Rilski is one the greatest Bulgarian saints. He was born about 867 in village of Skrino near Dupnitsa town. He was a shepherd and at the age of 25 he went in "St. Dimitar" monastery in Osogovo Mountain. He got his ecclesiastical education here and became a monk but soon he left the monastery and became a hermit.

At last he settled in the marvelous Rila Mountain where he
lived to the end of his life. He started healing the locals and preached the words of God in a way that anyone could understand.

The Rila monk became popular and soon the rumour spread all over, and even the Bulgarian king Petar I came from the capital Preslav in Rila to see him. But Ivan Rilski just bowed to the king from a distance. He didn't accept the gold that king Petar I send him as well.

Peop
le started to respect him even more and other monks and hermits came to him to be his disciples. They built hovels around and thus the foundation of the most famous Bulgarian monastery was laid.

Later it became one of the centers of early mediaeval culture. It declined during the 11th century, but with the foundation of the Seco
nd Bulgarian State great care was taken of it. The vicissitudes of time forced its location to be changed on several occasions. It has been destroyed by fire and abandoned by the monks.

Its present-day place, 119 km South of Sofia, is the one in which it stood during the 14th century, when the protosebast Dragovol H
relyo settled in the monastery as an independent ruler.

In 1335, he built the five-storey defence tower, topped by the transfiguration Chapel, fragments of whose murals can still be seen today. By the end of the 14th century, the Rila Monastery had turned into a powerful feudal entity, with many villages, lands and properties. Tsar Shishman alone, the last Bulgarian ruler, donated it over twenty villages in different districts.

The monastery's unquestionable authority influenced the Turkish sultans who confirmed the rights granted by the Bulgarian kings by special firmans. Irrespective of this, the monastery was devastated around the mid-15th century. It started rising again after the relics of John of Rila were brought from Veliko Turnovo here in 1469, passing through the whole of Bulgaria as a nationwide patriotic procession.

The fate of the monastery became the concern of the entire Bulgarian nation.

A new center was needed for the cultural life, which had declined or was transferred abroad. Many of the time's most outstanding men of letters gradually started gathering in the monasteries. The first links with Russian monasteries were established.
A charter of Tsar Ivan the Terrible, kept today at the Monastery Museum, allowed the Rila monks unlimited access to the Moscow Principality.


The Rila Monastery was burned and pillaged on several occasions. The construction of the present-day monastery buildings, which stretched over 30 years, started in 1816, with money collected from the entire people.
The courtyard facades offer one of the most perfect use of the verandahs system which lent very much warmth and coziness to the place.


The large monastery kitchens are located in the Northern wing, and are a unique example of building and architecture - a 24-meter cone passing through all floors by means of ten rows of arches topped by a small cupola.


The Holy Virgin main church was built from 1834 to 1837 in the place of the old burned-down church.

The interior is extremely impressive. The murals were painted between 1840 and 1848 by some of the finest artists of the time: Ivan Nikolov - The Iconpainter, Kosta Valyov, Zahari Zograph, Dimiter Zograph and his sons - all from Samokov, Dimiter Mollerov from Bansko and his son Simeon.
The icons of the main altar were painted by Ivan Obrazopissov from Samokov.The twenty donors' portraits in the church mark the beginning of Bulgarian secular painting of realistic portraits.

Thus the Rila Holy Virgin Church became an example of the new trend which revived 19th century religious painting. This gallery of art was enriched by the murals in the churches and chapels outside the monastery: St. Lucas, Virgin's Shroud, The Assumption of St. John of Rila - Above his grave, the church of the Orlitsa cloister, and the graveyard church. Some of them feature another two of the main individual styles of the time: of Toma Vishanov and Nikola Obrazopissov, founder of the Bulgarian genre painting.

Thirty-six figural scenes, the figures of the Old Testament Kings, apostles martyrs, an exceptionally rich ornamentation of flowers, birds and stylized figures - this, in short, is the "subject-matter" of the main carved altar of the Holy Virgin Church fashioned by four masters over a period of 5 years.

The museum contains a multitude of gold and silver church plates, collection of coins, weapons, jewelry, gold-weave nateruals and embroidery. Stunningly carved is the entrance gate of the already existing church of Protosebast Hrelyo, preserved today in the monastery's museum of history.

A truly unique masterpiece is the carved cross of the monk Raphael. The cross is made of a whole piece of wood (81cm x 43cm) and is named after its creator. The monk used fine chisels, small knives and magnifying lens to carve 104 religious scenes and 650 small figures into the cross. The cross was finished in 1802 after the monk worked on it for no less than 12 years, losing his sight upon completion.

The library's 16,000 volumes include 134 manuscripts from the 15th and 19th century, numerous incunabula and documents.

A characteristic example of the Bulgarian Renaissance (18th–19th centuries), the monument symbolizes the awareness of a Slavic cultural identity following centuries of occupation...........very impressive.

Day 64, Kotor,Montenegro

The next country is Montenegro, meaning Black Mountain.
It has a coast on the Adriatic Sea to the south-west and is bordered by Croatia to the west, Bosnia and Herzegovina to the northwest, Serbia to the northeast, Kosovo to the east and Albania to the south.
Montenegro has both a picturesque coast and a mountainous northern region.
Sita and Nopi are interested in visiting Kotor.


In the Middle Ages, this natural harbour on the Adriatic coast in Montenegro was an important artistic and commercial centre with its own famous schools of masonry and iconography.
A large number of the monuments (including four Romanesque churches and the town walls) were seriously damaged by the 1979 earthquake but the town has been restored.
The city of Kotor is especially rich in historic castles, Medieval palaces, and numerous cathedrals.
These various cultural sites has made Kotor a "World Natural and Historical Heritage Site," by UNESCO.

The most impressive and popular site within the city is the Sveti Tripun Cathedral, named after the city's protector Saint Tripun, and was built in the 12th century.

The city itself is surrounded by a stonewall fortification, and is situated right along the coast, at the base of Mount Lovcen.

Most of the city was built between the 12th and the 14th centuries, and is characterized by both the Renaissance and the Baroque periods.

Throughout the city there are elegant examples of the Baroque Period, which was defined by lavish decorations, and extravagance.

OK, Sita and Nopi are now in charge of arranging a Montenegro cruise so that we can see the most well preserved historical sites from the Middle Ages on our return visit to this part of Europe.

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Day 64,Studenica Monastery, Serbia

Next country on our journey is Serbia and we are now hovering over Belgrade, the capital.


Does anyone want to stop in Serbia? Yes? Where are we going to guys?


To the Mother-church of all Serbian temples, the monastery Studenica, dedicated to the Presentation of the Holy Virgin.

Ok, ....we seem to have a very informative and enthusiastic guide so let's go....
The first stage works were completed by the spring of 1196, when Stefan Nemanja abandoned his throne and settled in the monastery's foundation.
When he later left for Hilandar, his son and successor Stefan took over the care of S
tudenica. Nemanja died in Hilandar in 1299.

Nemanja's third son Sava , after reconciling his brothers Stefan and Vukan, moved Stefan's relics to Studenica.
Under guardianship of Sava, Studenica became the political, cultural and spiritual center of medieval Serbia. Among his other endeavors, Sava composed a Typik, the rule-book where he described St. Simon's life, leaving evidence of the spiritual and monastic life of his time.

Studenica enjoyed continual care by the members of the Nemanjic dynasty.
King Radoslav added to the church a splendid narthex in 1235.
King Milutin built a small but lovely church dedicated
to saints Joachim and Anna.

Since the fall of the last of the medieval Serbian states in 1459, the Turks often assaulted the monastery.

The first of the significant restorations of the damage took place in 1569, when the frescoes in the Church of the Presentation were repainted. In the early seventeenth century, an earthquake and a fire befell the monastery, and historical documents and a significant part of the artistic heritage were destroyed and lost forever.


The Virgin's Church is a domed single-nave basilica.

At its eastern end there is a three-sided apse, while an extended narthex faces west; there are also vestibules on the north and the south.
In the 1230s, a large exonarthex was added. The facades were built with slabs of white marble; inside, the church is revetted with tufa blocks.

Externally, the Church harmoniously reconciles two architectural styles, the Romanesque and the Byzantine. The blending of these two styles eventually produced a particular style of architecture known as the Raska School.



The church was painted in the first decade of the thirteenth century. The original frescoes have been partly preserved in the altar area, under the dome, on the west wall, and in the lower registers of the nave.

The most splendid representation is that of the Crucifixion, painted on blue background in 1209, one of the paramount achievements in Serbian art.

On the south wall there is the "founders' composition" which shows the Virgin taking Nemanja-Simon with the church model to Jesus Christ as the Magistrate Impartial.

This is the largest and richest of Serbia's Orthodox monasteries.

It is a UNECO World Heritage Site, the birthplace of Serbian art and literature, and founder stone of Serbian culture......hmmm, interesting.

Day 63, Bosnia and Herzegovina

We have arrived in Bosnia and Herzegovina, where we have met our friend Maja, who sadly has a really tight schedule so we are going to pop in for a quick cup of coffee at her home in Novi Grad...

meet her family and then stop over in Prijedor

to drop her off at work before we leave her country.....
but of course not before Sita sees the Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic Bridge in Visegrad.
This bridge across the Drina River in eastern Bosnia and Herzegovina, was completed in 1577 AD by the Ottoman court architect Sinan on the order of the Grand Vizier Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic.
It is characteristic of the apogee of Ottoman monumental architecture and civil engineering.

It numbers 11 masonry arches, with spans of 11 to 15 metres, and an access ramp at right angles with four arches on the left bank of the river.

The 179.50m long bridge is a representative masterpiece of Mimar Koca Sinan, one of the greatest architects and engineers of the classical Ottoman period and a contemporary of the Italian Renaissance, with which his work can be compared.

The unique elegance of proportion and monumental nobility of the property as a whole bear witness to the greatness of this style of architecture.

Three of its 11 arches were destroyed during World War I and five were damaged during World War II but were subsequently restored.

During the Bosnian War the bridge was a place of a brutal killings of a large number of civilians during the Visegrad massacre in 1992.

The universal value of the bridge at Visegrad is unquestionable for all the historical reasons and in view of the architectural values it has. It represents a major stage in the history of civil engineering and bridge architecture, erected by one of the most celebrated builders of the Ottoman Empire.

The bridge particularly bears witness to the transmission and adaptation of techniques in the course of a long historical process. It also bears witness to important cultural exchanges between areas of different civilizations. It is an exceptional representative of Ottoman architecture and civil engineering at its classical apogee. Its symbolic role has been important through the course of history, and particularly in the many conflicts that took place in the 20th century.

Its cultural value transcends both national and cultural borders.

Hmm, if only all the walls of the different structures we have seen could actually talk....can you imagine what weird, whacky and wonderful webs they would weave??