How to build a crate for shipping artwork

I have been asked by many artists why we build our own crates. "Isn't that hard?" they ask. Not really and building them yourself saves big on shipping costs and clients appreciate that.
 This post will show you every step involved in building a large wood crate for shipping. Its picture heavy and long, so grab a cup of coffee and take notes.

We buy the sheets of plywood at a big box store and have them cut it there. Be sure to know your measurements when you go. This crate is for a 36 x 36 canvas so the crate must be 40 x 40.

We also buy the side pieces (whiteboard) in the desired depth. This crate was for two canvases so its deeper than most.

It is super important to sand all of the edges. Splinters are no fun and you don't want your clients  with a big fat hunk of wood in their hands.

The tools aren't fancy, in fact, our saw horses are employed elsewhere so a large, sturdy box stands in.

We use two drills. One to drill a pilot hole for wood screws and one to screw in the screws but its fine to use just one. Pistols grip clamps are a must too.

These are the simple screws to buy.

Lets get started.

Use the miter box and saw to cut the side pieces. Important: Cut two pieces the full length of a side and two pieces smaller by the thickness of the board times 2. This will make the shorter pieces fit inside of the two longer ones. See photo below.

Remember to sand the edges.

Once the boards are cut place them flush with the edge of the first piece of plywood and clamp them in place.

Next you will need to drill two pilot holes so that you don't split the sides when you screw them together.

 Be sure to place the hole farther down than the length of the screw because you will be using another screw vertically later and they should not bump in to each other.

When you are finished it should look like this.  Now you are ready to attach the bottom board to the sides.Remember,  The plywood on the bottom is not attached to anything you are just using it to steady the sides.

Make sure the sides line up!

Clamp all of the pieces together and and drill pilot holes and screws about 12 inches apart.

We like to steer slightly to the side of the other screws just in case.

 You should have one flat side attached to the four side pieces. Flip it over and remove the clamps that held the other flat piece in place.Now you can pack the art.

Start with a single layer of peanuts.

 Add the wrapped artwork. You can see that there is little room around the edges. This allows a tight pack that keeps the work from moving around the the crate.

We pack the space very tightly with paper.

Then we add peanuts until the crate is very full. Important: The goal when packing anything for shipment is to keep it from rattling around during transit. Never skimp on packing material!

Now you are ready to close her up just like you did with the bottom piece.
Update from a question: I ship with UPS or Fedex. There is sometimes an extra fee for the crate as opposed to a cardboard box so it is helpful to call ahead and get a quote for the cost of shipping. Something this size usually costs less than $200 to ship. I often put my company label and an address on the crate but it is not necessary.

As you can see, some simple tools and a few screws are all you need to build a sturdy crate that will protect your artwork.

Read about shipping smaller pieces in cardboard HERE

Shipping artwork

The question most asked of me by other artists is about shipping paintings. The task seems so daunting that it keeps some from selling their work online.

I will show you my method for shipping works in cardboard boxes and the supplies I use.

I start with a clean work surface and my supplies for wrapping the painting.

A tape gun is a must. They are less than $15 and replacement tape rolls are easy to find.

I also buy rolls of 4 mil plastic in the 36 inch by 50 foot size. The wider size sheets are often unmanageable. The plastic is  easy to locate at hardware stores and big box stores.

Take the time to do the math before cutting to avoid waste.

I am wrapping an 18 x 24 inch canvas and the 36 inch width is not enough for a one cut of the plastic so I double it to have sufficient overlap. This is the time to include any additional materials like a note to the buyer or care guide.

I wrap the canvas like a present and tape thoroughly but not so much that opening the package will be an ordeal.

The most complicated aspect of this process is choosing and ordering your shipping boxes. I order from Uline.com and keep 4 or 5 sizes handy. I can't stress enough the importance of taking a basic inventory of the sizes you work in most and determining which box size will be the most useful.

The S-4553 that is 30 x 5 x 24 inches has proven the most useful to me. Knowing these dimensions in advance can help you give accurate shipping quotes and price your work accordingly.

I use packing paper and peanuts. I generally use the biodegradable peanuts (though not always) but I buy them all from a local shop owner who receives numerous shipments that are mostly peanuts. He saves them and sells them for a fraction of the cost of ordering them in bulk. Many business owners would love to get rid of their peanuts without throwing them away so it may be worth it to call around.

After a layer of peanuts, I center the painting and keep it in place with packing paper tucked snugly along the edges. This keeps both flat surfaces of the wrapped painting away from the outside of the box.

Next I fill the remaining space with peanuts. It helps to gingerly tap the box on the floor or table to allow the peanuts to settle as they would during shipping. Be careful not to allow the walls of the box to stretch out and bulge with packing material while doing this.

All that is left is to tape the box closed and whisk it away to the shipper.

I hope that was helpful and hope to do a post on crate building soon also.

Questions? Ask away in the comments section.