Vestido com estilo Boho em crochê.
Inspiração

Vestido de crochê bem simples de fazer - podendo fazer diversas variações no ponto usado na maior parte do vestido e no padrão dos quadrados.



Dá pra começar a fazer agora para estar pronto quando começar a esfriar.

 

 

 

 

Seguem abaixo o esquema dos hexágonos para montagem do blusão.

Repare que para fazer o recorte do pescoço, os hexágonos da frente e das costas não são completos.
Para que as barras fiquem retas, é necessário completar os espaços abertos entre os hexágonos com triângulos.

Essa blusa é simplesmente maravilhosa!!

As instruções para fazê-la seguem abaixo (www.favecrafts.com):

Materials:

• 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) skeins Naturally Caron Spa Yarn in Naturally
• US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge
• Stitch markers
• Yarn needle

Gauge: 

• In single crochet, 15 sts = 4"/10 cm;
• One Motif = 5 1/2"/14 cm across at widest point;
• In body pattern stitch, 4 repeats = 4"/10 cm and 5 rows = 3 1/2"/9 cm;
• In body or sleeve trim, one trim arm repeat = 2 1/2"/6.5 cm wide x 3"/7.5 cm long.

Finished Measurements:

• Bust:  32 (36, 40, 44, 48)"
• Length:  22 (22, 22, 22 1/2, 23)" measured from center back neck

Special Terms:

• Fsc: Foundation single crochet (In this design, Fsc is used to add stitches at the underarms) –
• Step 1:Ch 1 as directed, insert hook under the forward 2 loops of the stem of the previous stitch (2 strands just below the top loops of the sc) and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through one loop on hook (the "chain"); yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (the "single crochet").
• Step 2:The following stitch is worked under the forward 2 loops of the stem of the previous stitch (into the "chain"). Insert hook into the face of the "chain" and under the nub at the back of the "chain", draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through one loop on hook (the "chain"), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (the "single crochet"). Repeat for the length of underarm as directed.
• dtr2tog: Double treble crochet 2 together –[Yarn over 3 times, insert hook in next indicated st and draw up a loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times] twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
• tr2tog: Triple treble crochet 2 together –[Yarn over 4 times, insert hook in next indicated st and draw up a loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 4 times] twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Instructions:
Sizes: Small (Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large)

1. Pattern Round: Ch 1, 4 sc in beginning ch-sp, (4 sc, ch 5, 4 sc) in each ch-5 sp around, 4 sc in same ch-sp as beginning; join with ch 2, dc in first sc (join counts as beginning ch-sp), do not turn.  Pattern stitch will grow slightly in length and width, and will block to measurements. Garment provides generous amount of stretch when worn.

Yoke

• Yoke is a ring of 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) motifs that are joined to each other as work progresses. Each motif has seven arms that are crocheted and numbered counterclockwise (see diagram). Arms 1 and 2 form the neck edge, arms 3 and 7 are joined to neighboring motifs, arms 4–6 form the lower edge of the yoke.
• To keep the ring of motifs from twisting, use one long scrap of yarn to mark and stabilize the neck edge. After completing First Motif, loop and secure the yarn marker through arms 1 and 2. After joining Motif 2, loop end of yarn marker through arms 1 and 2, and so on.

First Motif

1. Ch 7; join with slip st in first ch to form a ring.
    
2. Round 1: Ch 1, work 21 sc in ring; join with slip st in first sc.

Arm 1

1. Row 1: Ch 8, place marker in first ch from hook.
    
2. Row 2 (RS): Work 16 sc over the ch-8 just made, sk first sc of ring, slip st in next sc, turn.
    
3. Row 3: Sk slip st, [ch 4, sk next 3 sc of arm, sc in next sc of arm] 4 times, turn. Note: The last sc may be difficult to see because it is squashed; the top loops are just past the marker.
    
4. Row 4 (RS): Do not ch 1, work 5 sc in each of the 4 ch-4 sps of arm, sk next sc of ring, slip st in next sc of ring, turn.

Arm 2

1. Row 1: Sk slip st, ch 8, sk next 6 sc of previous arm, sl st in next sc, turn.
    
2. Row 2 (RS):Do not ch 1, work 16 sc in ch-8 just made, slip st in next sc of ring, turn.
    
3. Rows 3 and 4: Work same as Rows 3 and 4 of arm 1.

Arms 3–6

1. Work as for arm 2 four more times.

Arm 7

1. Rows 1–3: Work same as Rows 1­­–3 of arm 2.
    
2. Row 4 (close motif):Do not ch 1, work 5 sc in the next 2 ch-4 sps of arm, 3 sc in next ch-4 sp, insert hook from front to back in marked ch of arm 1, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook to close motif, 2 sc in same ch-4 sp, 5 sc in last ch-4 sp, sk next sc of ring; join with slip st in first sc of ring. Fasten off.

Motifs 2–6 (6, 6, 7, 7)
Motifs are joined to neighboring motifs at the tips of arms 3 and 7 while working the joining row (Row 4). Arrange and join motifs to neighboring motifs as shown in assembly diagram.

1. Ch 7; join with slip st in first ch to form a ring.
    
2. Round 1: Ch 1, work 21 sc in ring; join with slip st in first sc.

Arms 1–6

1. Work as for arms 1–6 of First Motif.

Arm 7

1. Rows 1–3: Work same as Rows 1­–3 of arm 2 of First Motif.
    
2. Row 4 (joining row):Do not ch 1, work 2 sc in first ch-4 sp, insert hook from front to back in 3rd sc at tip of arm 3 of previous motif, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook to join motifs, 3 sc in same ch-4 sp; 3 sc in next ch-4 sp, insert hook from front to back in marked ch of arm 1, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook to close motif, 2 sc in same ch-4 sp, 5 sc in last ch-4 sp, sk next sc of ring; join with slip st in first sc of ring. Fasten off.

Last Motif

1. Ch 7; join with slip st in first ch to form a ring.
    
2. Round 1: Ch 1, work 21 sc in ring; join with slip st in first sc.

Arms 1 and 2

1. Work as for arms 1 and 2 of First Motif.

Arm 3

1. Rows 1–3: Work same as Rows 1­–3 of arm 2 of First Motif.
    
2. Row 4 (joining row) and close motif: Work 2 sc in first ch-4 sp, insert hook from front to back in 3rd sc at tip of arm 7 of First Motif, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook to join motifs, 3 sc in same ch-4 sp; work 5 sc in remaining 3 ch-4 sps, sk next sc of ring; slip st in next sc of ring.

Arms 4–7

1. Work as for arms 4–7 of Motif 6 (6, 6, 7, 7). Fasten off.

Yoke Neck Edge
Finishing the neck edge now makes Yoke more stable and allows you to try on and more accurately determine the body length as you crochet.

1. With RS of Yoke motif ring facing, join yarn with slip st in 3rd sc at tip of any arm 1.
    
2. Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in same sc of arm 1, *ch 5, sk next 6 sc of arm 1, dc in next sc, ch 5; sc in 3rd sc at tip of arm 2, ch 1, dtr2tog over 7th sc following last sc made and 8th sc of arm 7 of next motif (8th sc following slip st join), ch 1; continuing on this motif, sc in 3rd sc at tip of arm 1; repeat from * around neck edge of remaining motifs omitting last sc; join with slip st in first sc.
    
3. Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, *4 sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next dc, 4 sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next dtr2tog, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next sc; repeat from * around omitting last sc; join with slip st in first sc—98 (98, 98, 112, 112) sc.
    
4. Round 3: Ch 1, working in opposite direction, *rev sc in next sc, ch 1, sk next sc; repeat from * around; join with slip st in same sc as beginning. Fasten off.

Lower Yoke
To keep things neat, it is advisable to weave in all ends now.

1. With RS of Yoke motif ring facing, and beginning at the tip of any arm 4 (first free arm past motif join) of any motif, join yarn with slip st in 3rd sc at tip of arm 4.
    
2. Round 1 (RS): Ch 8 (counts as dc, ch 5), *sk next 6 sc of arm 4, dc in next sc, ch 5; sc in 3rd sc at tip of arm 5, ch 5, sk next 6 sc of arm 5, dc in next sc, ch 5, dc in 3rd sc at tip of arm 6, ch 5, trtr2tog over 7th sc following last dc made and 8th sc of arm 3 of next motif (8th sc following slip st join), ch 5; dc in 3rd sc at tip of arm 4; repeat from * around lower edge of remaining motifs omitting last dc; join with slip st in 3rd ch of beginning ch.
    
3. Round 2: Ch 1, 6 sc in each ch-5 sp around; join with slip st in first sc—252 (252, 252, 288, 288) sc. Fasten off.
    
4. Mark Center Front: Place a marker in any arm 5, in the sc from Round 1 (between 6-sc groups).

Size Small Only:

1. With RS facing, beginning at center front marker, sk next 38 sc; join yarn with slip st in next sc.
    
2. Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, sc in next sc, [ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc] 41 times; join with ch 2, sk last 4 sc, dc in first sc (join counts as beginning ch-sp)—42 ch-sps.

Size Medium Only:

1. With RS facing, beginning at center front marker, sk next 38 sc; join yarn with slip st in next sc.
    
2. Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, sc in next sc, *[ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] twice, [ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times, [ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 4 times, [ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc] 11 times*, [ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] twice; repeat from * to * once more; ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc; join with ch 2, sk last sc, dc in first sc (join counts as beginning ch-sp)—50 ch-sps.

Size Large Only:

1. With RS facing, beginning at center front marker, sk next 38 sc; join yarn with slip st in next sc.
    
2. Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, sc in next sc, **[ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] twice, [ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times, [ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 4 times, *[ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc] 3 times, [ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] twice; repeat from * once more; [ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc] 3 times**; [ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] twice; repeat from ** to ** once more; ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc; join with ch 2, sk last sc, dc in first sc (join counts as beginning ch-sp)—54 ch-sps.

Size X-Large Only:

1. With RS facing, beginning at center front marker, sk next 44 sc; join yarn with slip st in next sc.
    
2. Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, sc in next sc, *[ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] twice, [ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc] 7 times, [ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 4 times, [ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times, [ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] twice. [ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times*; [ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] twice; repeat from * to * once more; ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc; join with ch 2, sk last sc, dc in first sc (join counts as beginning ch-sp)—58 ch-sps.
    
3. Round 4: Work Pattern Round of Body Pattern Stitch.

Size XX-Large Only:

1. With RS facing, beginning at center front marker, sk next 44 sc; join yarn with slip st in next sc.
    
2. Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, sc in next sc, *[ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] twice, [ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc] 7 times, [ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 4 times, [ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times, [ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] twice. [ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times*; [ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc] twice; repeat from * to * once more; ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc; join with ch 4, sc in first sc (join counts as beginning ch-sp)—58 ch-sps.
    
3. Round 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in beginning ch-sp, *2 sc in next ch-5 sp, [ch 5, 2 sc in same ch-5 sp] twice, (4 sc, ch 5, 4 sc) in next 9 ch-5 sps, **2 sc in next ch-5 sp, [ch 5, 2 sc in same ch-5 sp] twice; repeat from ** once more, (4 sc, ch 5, 4 sc) in next 16 ch-5 sps*, 2 sc in next ch-5 sp, [ch 5, 2 sc in same ch-5 sp] twice; repeat from * to * once more; (2 sc, ch 5, 2 sc) in same ch-sp as beginning; join with ch 2, dc in first sc (join counts as beginning ch-sp)—66 ch-sps.

Body (All Sizes)
Work continues in joined rounds with RS always facing.
Divide for Armholes

1. Round 1: Ch 1, 4 sc in beginning ch-sp, *ch 1, Fsc 8 (8, 8, 12, 12) for underarm, sk next 8 (10, 10, 11, 13) ch-5 sps for armhole*; (4 sc, ch 5, 4 sc) in next 13 (15, 17, 18, 20) ch-5 sps across back; rep from * to * once more for other underarm, (4 sc, ch 5, 4 sc) in next 12 (14, 16, 17, 19) ch-5 sps across front, 4 sc in same ch-sp as beginning; join with ch 2, dc in first sc.
    
2. Round 2: Ch 1, 4 dc in beginning ch-sp, *sc in first sc of underarm foundation, [ch 5, sk next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc] 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) times, ch 5, sk next 2 sc, sc in last sc of underarm*, (4 sc, ch 5, 4 sc) in next 13 (15, 17, 18, 20) ch-5 sps; repeat from * to * once more across other underarm, (4 sc, ch 5, 4 sc) in next 12 (14, 16, 17, 19) ch-5 sps, 4 sc in same ch-sp as beginning; join with ch 2, dc in first sc—30 (34, 38, 42, 46) ch-sps.
    
3. Rounds 3–17: Work Pattern Round of Body Pattern Stitch 15 times or for desired body length before trim.

Body Trim
Trim is similar to one arm of a motif, with repeats worked sideways around lower edge.
First Trim Arm

1. Row 1: Ch 1, 4 sc in beginning ch-sp, 4 sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 10, place marker in first ch from hook.
    
2. Row 2 (RS): Work 20 sc over ch-10 just made, 4 sc in same ch-5 sp of body, 4 sc in next ch-5 sp of body, turn.
    
3. Row 3: Ch 4, sk next 11 sc, sc in next sc, [ch 4, sk next 3 sc, sc in next sc] 4 times, turn.
    
4. Row 4:Do not ch 1, 5 sc in next 5 ch-4 sps, 4 sc in same ch-5 sp of body, 4 sc in next ch-5 sp of body, turn.

Second Trim Arm

1. Row 1: Ch 10, sk next 15 sc, slip st in next sc, turn.
    
2. Rows 2–4: Work Rows 2–4 of first trim arm.
    
3. Repeat Rows 1–4 of second trim arm 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) more times around.

Last Trim Arm

1. Rows 1–3: Work Rows 1–3 of second trim arm.
    
2. Row 4 (close trim round):Do not ch 1, 5 sc in next 3 ch-4 sps, 3 sc in next ch-4 sp, insert hook from front to back in marked ch of first trim arm, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook to close trim round, 2 sc in same ch-4 sp, 5 sc in remaining ch-4 sp; join with slip st in first sc of trim. Fasten off.

Sleeves

1. With RS facing, join yarn with slip st in 8th (8th, 8th, 12th, 12th) ch of one underarm foundation (this should be the last ch of the underarm foundation).
    
2. Round 1: Ch 1, sc in same ch, (4 sc, ch 5, 4 sc) in next 8 (10, 10, 11, 13) ch-5 sps around armhole, sc in first ch of underarm foundation, [ch 5, sk next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch] 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) times; join with ch 2, sk last 2 ch, dc in first sc—10 (12, 12, 14, 16) ch-sps.
    
3. Rounds 2–21: Work Pattern Round of Body Pattern Stitch 20 times or until sleeve measures desired length before trim.

Sleeve Trim

1. Work trim around sleeve edge in the same manner as body trim, working 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) arms. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
    
2. Work second sleeve on opposite armhole in same manner.

Finishing

1. Using yarn needle, weave in all ends. Block top, as desired.

Read more at http://www.favecrafts.com/Crochet-Tops-and-Tunics/Avalon-Top#5io6PSwQvT90AfPu.99

 

Essa blusa de manga longa está super linda. O gráfico segue ao lado.
Tudo a ver com a primavera que está chegando aí

Essa blusinha amarela é amor à primeira vista: detalhes como a gola e a barra mais soltinha em baixo, como um peplum fazem dessa peça um destaque no look.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Casual e chique ao mesmo tempo.

Adorei o decote dessa túnica.

A única alteração que faria e no cumprimento das mangas: faria elas mais compridas.

Adorei essa blusa de crochê de manga comprida.
Ótima para meia estação.
O gráfico está em russo, mas acho que dá para seguir os gráficos

Essa flor de crochê é simplesmente maravilhosa.
É bom notar que a escolha das cores foi de grande importância para a beleza do trabalho final.

Adorei essa ideia de juntar vários corações de cores diferentes e formar um só tecido em crochê. Fiquei imaginando uma blusinha ou vestidinho de criança com esse padrão.

Com essa touquinha de crochê, ninguém vai ficar com as orelhinhas geladas neste inverno.
Fácil de fazer e fica uma gracinha.

Essa blusa é inspiração total!!
Dá pra fazer diversos modelos de blusas inspiradas nesta: a parte de cima em motivos de crochê e a parte de baixo em tricô.

Esse projeto é tudo de bom: vestido lindo e, como tem o bolerinho combinando, será aproveitado pela criança no inverno e no verão.

O tamanho do vestido é para uma criança de 5 ou 6 aninhos.


Legenda dos gráficos:

Bolero:

68 correntinhas e faça o gráfico A

 

 

 

 

 

 

Frente:
35 correntinhas e faça os gráficos B e C

Mangas:
41 correntinhas e faça o gráfico D - 2 vezes

 

Finalização: junte as partes. Faça duas carreiras de ponto baixo para acabamento da "gola".
No lado direito da parte da frente, coloque as argolinhas para os botões (4 correntinhas, ponto baixo no próximo ponto - 4 vezes). Coloque os botões no lado esquerdo.



Vestido
A parte de cima é trabalhada de baixo pra cima.
O gráfico abaixo é referente à frente do vestido.

 Aqui segue a parte de trás:

Junte a parte da frente com a de trás e trabalhe em carreiras pela parte de baixo.
Faça uma carreira de ponto alto triplo - será onde passará a fita de cetim.

A próxima carreira, em ponto baixo, é feita em azul.
O ponto fantasia da saia tem 9 pontos. Conte quantos pontos tem a carreira e verifique se é divisível por 9. Se não for, acrescente pontos ao longo da carreira enquanto faz a próxima carreira de pontos baixos azul.

Comece a saia (gráfico abaixo) com a linha branca.
As duas carreiras do padrão devem ser repetidas 10 vezes (ou mais, se preferir).
É recomendável usar uma agulha maior na segunda metade da saia para aquele efeito de abrir um pouquinho.

A barra da saia segue o padrão abaixo:
Ele é trabalhado em azul com exceção da segunda e penúltima carreiras.

 

Para acabamento, adorne a barra da saia, as mangas e gola com o ponto abaixo:

Coisa linda essa sainha em crochê!
Simples de fazer e muito fofa. Não tenho o gráfico, mas dá pra ver que não é muito difícil.
A florzinha dá o toque final ;)

Vestido lindo em crochê.
Não tem gráfico, mas pelo que consegui enxergar, é basicamente em ponto alto com detalhes em crochê file.

Vou tentar.

This is a pretty simple skirt to make.  You can do what I did with the two pink stripes or you could leave those out to reduce having to fasten off and weave in ends.  Or you can try to carry the yarn.  It looks a little messy on the inside but you don't have to deal with those pesky ends....lol

 

Uma saia de crochê para a Barbie: rapidinho de fazer e a Barbie sempre gosta de roupinhas novas.

Como fazer

1ª carreira: 41 correntinhas, 1 ponto baixo na 2ª corr, 1 ponto alto na seguinte *alternar pb e pa até o final. Vire. (40 pontos)

2ª e 3ª carreiras: 1 correntinha, pb no primeiro pa, pa no pb seguinte *alternar pa e pb até o final. Vire. (40 pontos)
4ª carreira: 1 correntinha {pb no primeiro pa, pa no pb seguinte} 3 vezes; {pb,pa} no próximo pb; {pb, pa} no próximo pb  - até o final. Vire. (50 pontos)

5ª carreira: repita a carreira 2 (50 pontos)

6ª a 15ª carreiras: 1 correntinha, pa no primeiro pb, pb no pa seguinte {pb no próximo pa, pa no próximo pb] até o final e junte com ponto baixo. Vire ao final de cada carreira. continue até a 15ª e arremate.

16ª carreira: (Linha rosa) 1 pa em cada ponto da carreira anterior. Arremate. (50 pontos)

17ª carreira: Junte linha marrom com ponto baixíssimo e faça 2 correntinhas (conta como primeiro pa), 1 pa em cada ponto da carreira anterior. Arremate. (50 pontos)
18ª e 19ª carreiras: repita as 16ª e 17ª carreiras

20ª carreira: Junte a linha rosa com um ponto baixíssimo. Faça 4 correntinhas, 4 pontos altos duplos no mesmo ponto, pule o próximo ponto, {5 pontos altos duplos no mesmo ponto} repita até o final. Arremate.


Costure um botão ou grampo para fechar a saia.


Lindo e nem é tão difícil!

Esses corações são fáceis e rápidos de serem feitos e podem ser utilizados para as mais diversas aplicações (em roupas, bolsas, enfeites de cabelo, etc.).

NOTE: (You may find difficulty counting the stitches in the first round (Round 5) when you attach both top of hearts together.  Please refer to pictures below for better explanation when Round 5 and Round 6 begin. 

Parte de cima do coração

(faça duas vezes)

 

3 correntinhas e junte para formar um anel

1 corr (não conta como um ponto)

1ª carreira: faça 6 pontos baixos no anel (6pb)

2ª carreira:  faça 2 pontos baixos em cada ponto da carreira anterior (12 pb)

3ª carreira: faça 1 ponto baixo em cada ponto da carreira anterior (12 pb)

4ª carreira: 1 ponto baixo em cada ponto da carreira anterior (12 pb)

Finalize com ponto baixíssimo e corte a linha.

Faça a outra metade da parte de cima do coração, sem cortar a linha no final.

Quando terminar a segunda parte, junte com a primeira com um ponto baixo. 

 

5ª carreira: 1 ponto baixo em cada ponto da carreira anterior (24 pb)

6ª carreira: 1 ponto baixo em cada ponto da carreira anterior (24 pb)

7ª carreira: 1 ponto baixo em cada ponto da carreira anterior (24 pb)

8ª carreira: faça 1 pb a cada 2 pontos da carreira anterior (12 pb)

9ª carreira: 1 ponto baixo em cada ponto da carreira anterior (12 pb)

10ª carreira: faça 1 pb a cada 2 pontos da carreira anterior (6 pb)

11ª carreira: 1 ponto baixo em cada ponto da carreira anterior(6 pb)

Ponto baixíssimo e finalize.

E aí, como foram de ano novo?
Ano novo, vida nova e bolsa nova também!!
Pra começar bem este ano, segue um passo a passo de uma bolsa de crochê linda linda e com um tamanho bem bom para o dia a dia.

Lindo chapéuzinho para lindas menininhas.

Linda bolsa em crochê com detalhe floral. Simples e maravilhosa!