Turning a graduated bob into a layered bob 💡🙇♂️ | Turning a graduated bob into a layered bob 💡🙇♂️ Please share this video 🙏 | By Matt Beck | Alright, guys. We're going to start off this haircut by taking a right-hand side parting down to mid crown then across mid crown and down the parietal ridge. What this going to do is give me a little bit of an offset kind of asymmetrical rectangle on the top of the head then I go straight down center back and separate the two sides, clip it away, and now I'm going to work diagonal forward partings and start my cutting. So, I want to work with the head shape here. The the whole point of that is I'm collapse the shape so we're creating more of a layered bob this is from a previous haircut where we did a complete horizontal graduated bob now we're switching it to a vertical diagonal forward layered bob which is going to take out a lot of the weight in the haircut so depending on how your guest wants to wear their hair there's two different options for you so just working bringing everything straight back to the previous section so I'm working my way across the back just bringing it back slightly about an inch back to the previous parting to make my cut. Now, I work vertically so I shift from diagonal forward to vertical when I get to right behind the ear and I work that all the way back bringing everything straight back to a stationary guide at this point. What this is going to do is push a ton of weight to the front. So, that's something that we're going to address later in the haircut but just keep that in mind when you're over directing something way back to a stationary guide you're going to have a lot of weight it as the end result when the hair falls forward so working diagonal forward still this the big switch here is that my fingers are now pointing down on the other side my fingers were pointing up the reason for that is it allows me to comb my new hair towards the middle of the head towards the the guide you never we talked about this over and over again you never want to comb the guide to the new hair because that shifts the guide from where it lives and if you do that, you're making the guide shorter which is going to make one side of your haircut shorter. So, to keep consistent, you need to comb the hair the same exact way on both sides of the head. So, working vertically, another key thing to to look at is how the head shape curves up around the crown. That's obviously going to give us our graduated point. So, we we're layering the hair pass the occipital bone to low crown and then when we get to mid crown part you can see that the elevation of the hair is actually more at a 0degree angle so that's going to give us our weight line there Bringing everything straight back. Pushing that weight forward. Just keeping nice, clean sections. I'm using the fine teeth of the comb that's helping keep more tension on the hair and that's pretty much it. It's a pretty simple structured haircut and I think that this is a very common haircut that you'll see people doing in the salon. The big thing that I want to go over in a little bit is how we can kind of make adjustments to that to make it have a more modern feel. So, we're going to go through the back. We're going to work diagonal back through the crown area. What I want to do is take and just blend in the crown to the bottom more around the occipital high occipital bone area so I'll take my guide from top of the occipital bone and then just follow it straight up so keeping that weight line in there but just blending it a bit everything's being over directed back to that one point so you can see that there's a a slight bit of over direction coming away from me which is going to push that kind of weight around the corner and it's going to be a little bit longer right behind the ear which I like that feeling so everything's going to come back to that guide it's going to be stationary there so you can see in the bottom left diagram how I kind of angle the haircut so we're cutting short to long just keeping a little bit of extra length in there you comb everything back until you run out of hair and then you're good to go now we're going to start our blow dry do a flat wrap blow dry and what I want to do is show you guys the what this end result will look like pre dry cutting. Alright, guys. So, I want to pause the haircut right now and the step by step because I want to talk to you about the status of where we're at in this cut. This is a haircut that I am constantly seeing all over the place. This kind of half-done haircut with the stack in the back, the weight on the sides. What I wanted to do is show you guys what this looks like right now and then, I want to go in and I'm going to do a ton of dry cutting for you guys and show you how to modernize and how to really finish the look. It's not even about making it modern. It's about making it functional because there is no way you're going to wear this any other way but this because it's so heavy so we're going to go through take out some of the weight really create a finish look out of this haircut and using those dry cutting techniques so hopefully you guys will take that from this video and use it so here we go back to the step by step alright guys so we're going to start off in our dry cutting portion of the haircut I'm going through with my vibra straight iron just polishing out the ends of the haircut what this is doing is allowing to see where the weight seems heavy and where we need to go in and just lighten it up a little bit so I'm going to take a horizontal section throughout the side I already noticed that this side is heavy the sides are going to be heavy because we over directed everything back to a stationary guide so now I want to go through and diffuse the weight so I go through horizontal elevate the hair as high as I possibly can and just work I'm using a misotani puffin dry cutting scissor love this scissor it's a five and 1/ 2 inch blade goes in nice and deep into the section and just diffuses any weight that's build up that I don't want so going through horizontally in the back as well doing the same thing elevating it nice and high not trying to take or create a line at this point just diffusing some of the weight so what I'll do is I'll take that section I'll actually look in there and see where the density seems heaviest and then if if I see a really dense spot that's where I'll do most of my point cutting so I'm not going through there even and cutting I'm going through there and actually visually looking to see where it's really heavy so right there you can see that part's heavy so I'm going to go through and diffuse that a little bit same thing on the top work that line out a little bit go a little bit deeper just removing that weight creating that texture and a lot of movement and modernizing the haircut so same thing here going through you can see how the ends you can see light through there and then as it gets a little bit deeper there's it's more dense so you're just going in there and polishing and removing that now we're going to do same thing but we're going to actually cut a line but a nice broken line because I want to create a more side angled fringe in the front nothing crazy I'm not trying to create a short bang in the haircut but just something soft that lays across her cheekbone so working diagonal forward section over directing it to myself to a stationary guide but the guide is is really diffused because we're doing some deep point cutting there now going through slide cutting using the same scissor. This is a good look at the misotani puffin just going through gliding through the hair. The reason a dry cutting scissor is so good is because the blade is so thick that it has a ton of power when you go in to cut hair so it can get through pretty much anything and that's what makes it a great dry cutting scissor. So, I'm just going through. You can see how I push the top away and then I slide cut and then I pull the top back around. That's because I wanted to almost disconnect the underneath. You don't have to go through and slide cut the entire side the head what you want to do is go in and just diffuse the bottom then push the top over and it makes it look nice and soft then I'll go through a little tease cutting connect it all together same thing on the opposite side just going through slide cutting just to break up and add that texture into the haircut I'm always going through and working with my hands. When I move it with my hands, it just allows me to see kind of how it's going to fall and how that texture is going to move within the haircut. The last thing I'm going to do, I got my Misotani type Z dual texture scissor. So, both sides have teeth and I just go through and glide into the back portion just to add again more texture and movement and then I always blow out the hair to get all those loose hairs out of it and to kind of bring life back into the haircut. That's how that's how I see it. So, we're going through. I've got the Ergo paddle brush working through it and then I just finish it with a little bit of hairspray and she is good to go. So, you guys like this haircut. If you do, let me know in the comments. Let me know what you want to see next and thanks for watching. Alright, you guys know what to do. If you made it through this video, let me know in the comments below. Also, if you like this haircut, hit the like button, hit the share button, share this video with all of your friends. Thank you guys so much for watching. I'll see you on the next video. Both under influence we had divisive to know what to say mine is a razor but
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