6 scenic train journeys in Scotland: see the stunning pictures

Travelling through Scotland by train is nothing short of a privilege. These are the very best journeys to take, all experienced first-hand by our man in Glasgow – including insider tips.

THE BELMOND ROYAL SCOTSMAN

Something of a marvel, this. A wonder. The outfit that runs it, Belmond, used to be called Orient-Express. You have probably heard the name. As well as the familiar Venice Simplon affair, Belmond operates lots of other similarly glamorous rail routes, together with some of the world’s top hotels, including the Cadogan in London, the Cipriani in Venice and the Copacabana Palace in Rio de Janeiro. The lusciousness quotient of these places is replicated aboard the Royal Scotsman; the main difference between those bricks-and-mortar hotels and this hotel on wheels is a difference of scale. Belmond offers half a dozen or so different itineraries across Scotland, varying in route and duration. All involve excursions off the train to visit castles, whisky distilleries, seal colonies and whatnot. But for the present writer the loveliest moments were often the least complicated ones, sitting at the back of the Observation Car, gazing at the slowly unspooling Highland landscape.

LOOK OUT FOR:

The cows at Ballindalloch Castle. Ballindalloch is one of the many castles you are likely to get a chance to poke around during the trip. It is home not only to the Macpherson-Grant family but also to the oldest herd of Aberdeen Angus cows in the world. The current owners, Clare and Oliver, are charming. ‘Oliver had never set foot in Scotland before he met me,’ Clare said. ‘When he got me, he got the castle and the cows too.’ ‘Admission to the castle is free,’ came Oliver’s reply. ‘But the bull may charge later! Haw haw haw!’

INSIDER TIP:

Don’t forget to pack your penguin suit or ball gown, as appropriate. People really do wear these things. The fun of dancing a reel in your glad rags, late at night on an empty station platform somewhere in the Highlands, with a group of similarly gussied-up fellow travellers, is not to be underestimated.

THE WEST HIGHLAND LINE

Winding north out of Glasgow, skirting the western shores of Loch Lomond, meandering across the lonely wilds of Rannoch Moor, past the looming hulk of Ben Nevis, to Fort William, before striking out at last to the remote coastal village of Mallaig, ferry terminal for the Isles of Skye, Muck, Rum and Eigg. Every now and then someone or other declares this The Best Train Journey in the World. Certainly it provides a marvellous introduction to the severe loveliness of the western Highlands. I am particularly fond of the approach to Glencoe, which, in addition to its great beauty, has about it a peculiar melancholy, an air of inconsolable sorrow, that is almost spooky. You would feel and be moved by this, I think, even if you were a first-time visitor from some distant corner of the globe – a sunkissed, carefree atoll in the South Pacific, perhaps – and cheerfully ignorant of Glencoe’s murderous past.

LOOK OUT FOR:

Harry, Ron and Hermione.

INSIDER TIP:

Since its appearance in the first of the Harry Potter movies, the Glenfinnan Viaduct has become a powerful muggle magnet. In the summer months you can book a special ticket to complete the last leg of the journey – from Fort William to Mallaig, which includes the picturesque viaduct – by steam train, for the full Hogwarts Express experience.

PERTH TO INVERNESS

A counterpart to the West Highland Line, though on the whole less dramatic, better behaved and more subdued. With one notable exception: the relatively short but quite magnificent section of the journey near the Drumochter Pass, before you get to Dalwhinnie, on the south-western edge of the Cairngorms. In winter the dark rocky hillsides dolloped with bright snow seem otherworldly in their black-and-white starkness. It is like swimming with orcas in outer space.

LOOK OUT FOR:

Blair Castle, seat of the Clan Murray and Dukes of Atholl since the 13th century, is clearly visible as you arrive at Blair Atholl station (on the right-hand side of the train if you are travelling north, the left-hand side if you are travelling south). Can a castle be perky? This one always strikes me as having a perky look about it. Good feng shui or something.

INSIDER TIP:

If you travel in first class, you can stuff your face with as much shortbread as you want at no extra charge. Shortbread always tastes better on the train.

THE FAR NORTH LINE

From Inverness up to Thurso then across to Wick. You are going it some by the time you get up here – Thurso is the most northerly railway station in the British Isles and an oatcake’s throw from John O’Groats. There are a few seasonal or request-only stops along the way, a reminder of statelier times when people who had their own castles also had their own train stations. You might care to stop at Dunrobin Castle, for example, one of the oldest continuously inhabited houses in Britain, home to the Earls and Dukes of Sutherland for nearly 750 years. It underwent a spectacular Loire Valley-château-inspired makeover in the 19th century – a prosperous period for the Sutherlands, following their controversial role in the Highland Clearances. Statelier times, then, but not necessarily gentler ones.

LOOK OUT FOR:

If you do alight at Dunrobin Castle, note the length of the platform. Impressive, don’t you think? A 1903 article in Railway Magazine explains: ‘As a rule the platforms of private stations are very small, but this one at Dunrobin is an exception. It is very long, for often the family at the Castle will entertain three or four hundred guests at a time, when important fêtes or events are taking place there.’

INSIDER TIP:

Not a tip as such, and really only a guess, but it occurs to me that this route may very well pass more castles and whisky distilleries than any other comparable railway line in Scotland. Even if that is not statistically correct, it would still make for a jolly trip if you were to celebrate both of those legendary Scottish phenomena by knocking back a dram every time you saw a castle.

THE STRATHSPEY STEAM RAILWAY

I imagine this must be a glimpse of heaven for vintage-train obsessives. And it is not without a certain kind of Wallace and Gromit charm for the rest of us. Not without a pleasant dining car, either, come to that. The train is composed of lovingly done-up carriages drawn by a proper old-fashioned locomotive, which puffs and whistles its way from Aviemore to Boat of Garten and Broomhill and, er, back again. Just the three stops, not very far apart from one another, but all extremely shortbread-tin-worthy.

LOOK OUT FOR:

Ospreys. There are thought to be about 250 breeding pairs of ospreys left in Britain. The RSPB Osprey Centre is at nearby Loch Garten and your chances of spotting one of these majestic birds are better here than just about anywhere else.

INSIDER TIP:

If you’ve got the time and you’re good at coordinating train timetables, you could treat the Strathspey route as a little east-west interlude on a longer north-south trip. Let’s say you were heading from Glasgow or Edinburgh up to Inverness. You could break your journey at Aviemore and hop onto the Strathspey steam train – out to Broomhill and back, clickety-clack – then resume your journey from Aviemore.

THE WEST COAST MAIN LINE, JUST NORTH OF CARLISLE

A sentimental choice. The area on either side of the border between Scotland and England was always my favourite section of the trip in the years when I was travelling more or less weekly between Glasgow and London on the West Coast Main Line. It did not matter which way the train was going – I was equally happy to cross over from Scotland into England or from England into Scotland. Historically this was reiver or bandit country. Elopement country, too, for English couples eager to get hitched in haste under Scotland’s more relaxed marriage laws (no parental consent or advance notice required). Gretna Green, a few miles north of Carlisle, became the destination of choice for ‘runaway marriages’ in the 18th century following the construction of a toll road that made it the easiest Scottish village to get to from England. Speaking of aisles, I recall an occasion when, late one night, a power failure caused the Glasgow-bound train I was on to come to a standstill near Gretna Green and the interior lights to die. A well-refreshed party in my carriage swiftly devised a competition to keep spirits high in the face of this inconvenient disruption to our journey. A golf club was repurposed as a hobby-horse and liquored-up jockeys undertook individual time trials along the length of the aisle, galloping from one end to the other as if it were the Straight Mile at Redcar. These thunderous feats of athleticism, rather romantically illuminated by mobile-phonelight, were met with frantic cries of encouragement and hysterical hoots of mirth.

LOOK OUT FOR:

Loved-up English youths heading north at speed from Carlisle towards Gretna Green with panicked parents in hot pursuit.

INSIDER TIP:

The views from both sides of the train are good during the daylight hours. (At night all you can see if you peer into the darkness is your own reflection in the window.) Choose your seat depending on the time of departure. If you are heading south in the morning, the sun will be in your eyes if you sit on the left of the train – better to sit on the right. There are only so many morning/afternoon, north/south, left/right combinations to worry about, but since the whole trip takes four and a half hours it is worth pausing to consider your options, especially if the weather is set fair.

Like this? Now read:

The best train journeys through Europe

The best train journeys through Europe

10 Slides

By Monisha Rajesh

View Slideshow

North Coast 500: the ultimate UK road trip

North Coast 500: the ultimate UK road trip

The best places to visit in Scotland

The best places to visit in Scotland

The most memorable way to scope out Scotland is on journeys from cities to mountains via lochs and when crossing seas to seek out blissed-out, bucket-list islands.