Freshly caught albacore are summer favorites at sushi bars, where they’re served as sashimi or sushi (shiro maguro) or served tataki-style, lightly seared on both sides.

I got to know B.C. albacore tuna some months back at Vancouver wholesaler Albion Fisheries (1077 Great Northern Way) when I shamelessly scarfed down most of a plate of tataki during a presentation.

Pair it with the albacore carpaccio ($15), dressed in its pickled shiitake finery, and a Sapporo and consider yourself sorted. Masu 406 SW 13th Ave., 503-221-6278, masusushi.com.

4. White-Tuna Sashimi Japanese name: shiromaguro When you’re desperate for a tuna fix, go with the honky. Fatty, supple albacore is your best bet.

Appetizers include an exquisite albacore tataki, the rosy slices of raw fish lightly seared around the edges, moistened with ponzu and adorned with pungent radish sprouts and crispy fried shallots.

Slice the sashimi: On a clean work surface, slice the dried seared tuna fillet diagonally to produce 10 thin, rectangular slices about 3-inches by 1 inch, and 1/4 inch thick, weighing about 1 ounce.

First, the cheapest sake is best for cooking. Second, shiso is an invasive plant, so you might be able to find it in all kinds of places, but if you can’t find it or if you want a substitute, you can ...