For many years Kokkari was on my Top 100 list, but it came off in 2010 when the food and service seemed rote. It felt similar on several return visits, and I hadn’t been back for at least two years.

Yet it's clear the staff members at Kokkari, even on good nights, have become complacent. If they don't begin to treat everyone as regulars, they may find their place as lonely as the once-popular ...