Next, a lone torched scallop topped with more uni and ikura, followed by a little black pot of chawanmushi, the Japanese egg custard, with ikura (salmon roe), crab, scallops and still more uni.

Over a bit of rice on a toasted sheet of seaweed, affable head chef Kazushi Kimura spoons a mound of Hokkaido kegani (hairy crab), uni and ikura that he gently mixes in a bowl beforehand. The mashed ...