Maven is a cozy restaurant specializing in comfort food with an Eastern European flair. Tucked away in Harbord Village, it's becoming known for its plump, golden challah and crispy chicken schnitzel.

From the candlelit wooden booths to the tablecloths for drapes, the spot offers a home-away-from-home feeling, but with food a step up from grandma's kitchen. 

Started by Toronto native Shauna Godfrey, whose name might ring a bell from her popular pandemic dinner operation, Godfrey's Supper Club, Maven pays heartfelt homage to her Polish Jewish roots.

"I loved going to my grandmother's house for Friday night dinner," shared the chef and owner. "I was the kid that would go into her kitchen, and before even saying hi sometimes, which is not cool, I would open all the lids to the pots on the stove because I was so excited to know what was for dinner."

Godfrey's grandmother, Rose, set the course for what would become a lifelong passion for cooking.

After learning her grandmother's secrets for the perfect challah, Godfrey eventually found herself studying at The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in New York. From there, the chef went on to work at two-star Michelin restaurant Atera NYC and Toronto's Momofuku Kōjin, where she progressed from cook to sous chef.

In her latest venture, Godfrey is excited to celebrate traditional Eastern European and Jewish dishes in a more refined and contemporary way. 

"I thought about Maven as a place people could come on a date or to take their grandmother. I wanted there to be food that felt familiar to people who maybe grew up with it. Delicious, tasty, not overly complicated," Godfrey told blogTO. 

Joining her in the kitchen is Sous Chef Kai Wonghirandecha. The pair met nearly a decade ago at the CIA. 

Before it's time to nosh, the warm and welcoming front entrance bar beckons patrons for a drink and with names like the Pickletini or Carrie Bradstein, you know you're in for a good time. 

In a twist on a dirty martini, the Pickletini ($18) is made with a cornichon brine (those adorable miniature pickles about the size of your pinky finger). Stirred with gin, the beverage also showcases notes of celery and dill. 

The Borscht Belt Spritz ($18) is a beetroot red prosecco-based drink featuring dill, ginger, and peppercorn. Earthy and vibrant, it complements the savoury dishes on the menu beautifully.

Dinner consists of numerous snacks, small plates, large plates, and sides. However you decide to mix and match, the Challah Buns ($7) need to be number one on the lineup. 

Golden brown and dotted with sesame seeds, the buns rival all other dinner rolls. Served warm, the challah is soft, slightly sweet, and flavourful, an adjective not typically top of mind when it comes to bread.

A mainstay on the menu, the recipe was passed down from Godfrey's Bubby Rose. The only thing that's changed is the dips. There's melt-in-your-mouth whipped butter with flaky Maldon salt or a decadent chicken liver mousse. 

Drawing inspiration from Japanese tonkatsu, the Chicken Schnitzel ($32) comes with a fermented plum and brown butter compote. Similar to a plum sauce, it's tangy and sweet. 

The chicken is perfectly fried, each bite crunchy with a tender interior. On the side is a spread of Kozlik's Dijon mustard. 

The Poppy Seed Endive Salad ($16) is refreshing and bright, dressed in a creamy buttermilk vinaigrette.

Hidden underneath are delicate pieces of caramelized delicata squash, toasted slivered almonds, and pickled pears done in a habanada pepper pickling liquid. 

The Dill Spaetzle ($8) is an Eastern European style of dumpling. The dough, made with ground caraway seeds, is passed through a sieve over boiling water to create the irregular shapes.

It's topped with a herb compound butter that incorporates lots of dill, chilli flakes, lemon, and garlic. As soon as it hits the table, guests are encouraged to give it a mix as it melts. 

And it wouldn't be a night at Maven without a slice of Bubby Rose's Cheesecake ($12). It features a traditional graham cracker crust and a tangy cream cheese and sour cream filling. 

A Yiddish word, Maven, refers to a knowledgeable person or expert. For Godfrey, the maven in her life is Rose. 

Maven is located at 112 Harbord Street.