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The Lady Bug Quilt uses a quilt-as-you-go technique that I’ve used in quite a few quilts. Feature blocks are appliquéd onto white fabric and the batting and backing are added for a round of echo quilting. Green blocks are quilting straight through all the layers with a butterfly motif.

A comprehensive guide to making QAYG quilts is included separately. This document provides extra notes for this particular quilt. Because I made this as a gift, I didn’t write up detailed guidelines.

Project Notes

This quilt was designed and made for the birth of my grandniece in 2012 and was based on her color scheme. All the blocks are used as they are set up in the set.

The set also includes additional coordinating designs that weren’t used and can be used for other purposes.

For batting, I used a June Tailor fusible batting.

Threads are Hemingworth polyester and the bobbin is a standard white pre-wound polyester embroidery bobbin. Stabilizer is Sulky Soft n Sheer for the appliqué blocks and Washaway for the quilted blocks.

Fabric Requirements

I like to draw sketches of my quilts in graphics software to help determine the layout, color and design placement, and fabric requirements. I’ll also use a spreadsheet to keep track of fabric needs.

If you don’t have suitable fabrics in your stash for the appliqués pick up some fat quarters:

• Ladybug: black (body), red (outer wings), light gray (inner wings)
• Flower: pink (petals), black (flower center)

Appliques in this set are designed for precutting and templates are included for hand and machine cutting. (See the included Applique Basics if you’re unfamiliar with my technique.

About the Designs

Basic embroidery designs have been customized by rotating and combining to streamline the process of stitching the blocks. Extra stops are included to permit interacting as required to place appliqué pieces and backing fabrics. Refer to the color sequences for what actions to take.

Designs are also included individually for those with smaller hoops or for use with coordinating accessories.

Quick Notes on Stitching & Assembly

For fully illustrated step-by-steps, see Quilt As You Go Basics. Here’s a quick recap for this quilt.

Embroidering the Appliqué Blocks

Important: The two appliqué blocks have multiple stops. Pay attention to the color sequences to know what to do.

1. Hoop stabilizer. Sew first color directly onto stabilizer as guideline.
2. Position background fabric and sew next color (basting stitching) to fix fabric to stabilizer
3. Stitch appliqué design, stopping before the outline quilting.
4. Fuse the batting to the wrong side of the backing fabric. Slide this under the hooping design, batting side up and match alignment to top block. Use tape to secure the block.
5. Sew the last color change to echo quilt the two pieces together.
6. Remove from hoop. Trim away excess stabilizer.

Embroidering Quilted blocks

Note: I used regular white embroidery bobbin thread. You may choose to use a matching color embroidery thread if desired.

1. Make a quilt sandwich of backing, batting, and top fabric. Fuse together.
2. Hoop stabilizer. Sew first color directly onto the stabilizer as a guideline.
3. Lightly mist the back of the quilt sandwich with TESA and position on the stabilizer
4. Sew the rest of the design.
5. Remove from hoop. Trim away excess stabilizer.

When all blocks are stitched, trim to size.

Make a Dedication Label

I like Adine Script for my quilt labels. It’s not heavy or bulky and the script is elegant and readable

Assembling

Quilt is assembled using a piece-as-you-go technique placing the rows on the diagonal with the blocks on point.

Want to Learn More About Machine Embroidery?

If you’d like to learn more about machine embroidery, check out my current classes on Craftsy. Use the links below to get 50% off on these classes:

• Thread Savvy: Stitch Flawlessly with Any Thread
• 20 Things Every Embroiderer Should Know

Craftsy has a huge and ever-growing list of classes on a wide range of topics led by premier instructors. I’ve enrolled in classes on embroidery, quilting, sewing, knitting, crochet, painting, cake decorating, cooking, and photography.

I’ve watched them on my iPhone while riding in the car and on my iPad snuggled up in bed. I love that I can bookmark places to review again, hit the 30 second repeat when I get distracted or need to see a technique again, and my favorite part is I can speed it up or slow it down. You can even ask questions of the instructor.

There are some free ones, so please do try it out. One more tip—if you have a slow network where you live, visit a fast network and download the course to a mobile device for later viewing. Or, new for 2017, course can be purchased on DVD!

Baby Quilt

Quilted Baby Animals uses a quilt-as-you-go technique that I’ve used in quite a few quilts. If you have a need to whip up an adorably cute quilt in just one day, this is the one!

A comprehensive guide to making QAYG quilts is included separately. This document provides a list of the materials I used and a cutting guide layout as a reference to recreate this project in the fabrics of your choice.

Project Notes

I used the 150mm (6”) versions for this quilt and floated precut blocks in a large (240x240mm) hoop. Embroidered blocks are trimmed to 9” for a 7½” finished block. Finished sashing is 1½” wide and the border is 2¾” wide. Finished quilt size is 30½” x 39.”

For the front, I used a pale golden yellow for the blocks and a medium gray for the sashing and borders. Both have a random dot pattern.

I used one fabric for the back, which is a busy, mini floral white on medium gray to camouflage the embroidery.

For batting, I used Quilter’s Select Soft Machine Batting (Floriani).

Thread is Hemingworth polyester #1076 Nautical Blue and the bobbin is a standard white prewound polyester embroidery bobbin. Stabilizer is Sulky Soft n Sheer.

Fabric Requirements

You’ll need to do some planning for yourself here because it will depend on what size blocks you’re using and how you hoop as well as how many different fabrics you use. (Planning and calculation tips are covered in QAYG Basics.)

Using 42-44” wide fabric, you can get 4 blocks out of 10” long WOF strip. Theoretically, you could get all 12 blocks out of 1 yard using precut 10” blocks BUT—there’s no extra if you mess up a block.

For the sashing and borders, I cut them on the length of the fabric rather than across. I planned my longest border and added a few inches and it was plenty for the front. You can just get that out of 1 yard of fabric if you don’t make any mistakes. (See layout guide following.)

I allocated 1/2 yard for the binding.

The back is all one fabric but due to the construction technique, you’ll need another set of blocks, borders, and sashing. So yes, you could get by with 2 yards for the back but…

I’m not worried about cutting my measurements as close as possible. I do a lot of applique and leftovers aren’t an issue for me. I’d rather have leftovers than run short

Want to Learn More About Machine Embroidery?

If you’d like to learn more about machine embroidery, check out my current classes on Craftsy. Use the links below to get 50% off on these classes:

• Thread Savvy: Stitch Flawlessly with Any Thread
• 20 Things Every Embroiderer Should Know

Craftsy has a huge and ever-growing list of classes on a wide range of topics led by premier instructors. I’ve enrolled in classes on embroidery, quilting, sewing, knitting, crochet, painting, cake decorating, cooking, and photography.

I’ve watched them on my iPhone while riding in the car and on my iPad snuggled up in bed. I love that I can bookmark places to review again, hit the 30 second repeat when I get distracted or need to see a technique again, and my favorite part is I can speed it up or slow it down. You can even ask questions of the instructor.

There are some free ones, so please do try it out. One more tip—if you have a slow network where you live, visit a fast network and download the course to a mobile device for later viewing. Or, new for 2017, course can be purchased on DVD

This little treat keeper is perfect for a quick Easter gift. Stuff it with candy or jewelry or other small items. This project is fast to sew, works in a 100mm square (“4x4”) hoop, can be completed in just one hooping, and requires only minimal finishing after removing from the hoop. (All designs in this set are made the same way. Refer to the worksheet for fabric requirements and use the appropriate backing patterns.

Watch the Video There is a full video on how to make this on YouTube: ITH Easter Treat Keeper. (https://youtu.be/1pROyNEJGDU

Skill Level

Simple. Just follow the steps!

Please read through all instructions before starting your project! This project has multiple steps that must be done in a certain order

Resizing is not recommended

Getting Started

Print the worksheet. It has full instructions that will make more sense after you make just one.

Print the templates for the back panels for hand cutting or use them with your digital cutter.

What You’ll Need

• Suitable fabrics: I’ve sewn this in all felt with a clear vinyl window. Heavier felts will hold
up better than the thin “craft square” varity.
• Stabilizer: I used Sulky Tear-Easy
• Scissors used:
• Thread snips
• Heavy scissors for final trim
• Suitable embroidery threads
• Tape
• Optional: Snap for back flap (I used these)

Cutting Requirements

This project is designed for felt. Some of the filled areas may be too dense for a vinyl front. Refer to the individual worksheets for cutting requirements. Use the templates for cutting the back pieces.

Stitching:

Only the last color is visible on the back if you want a matching bobbin color. Please use colors that you like. Notice in my samples, I’ve chosen colors to work with the felt I chose. See next page for extra steps for the duck

Placement Tips:

The top guide is the top of the bottom piece, which is placed first.

The lower guide is the bottom of the top piece, which is placed second.

If you cut your pieces according to the cutting instructions and placed your front piece accurately, the perimeter of the back pieces should match the front.

Secure with tape and sew the last color

Variation For Duck

The duck uses felt appliques for the feet, which are placed after the front sews but before attaching the back:

Follow the previous steps up through #6, then insert the steps below before continuing with steps 7 and 8 as before.

• 6b. Place front duck fabric, centering in hoop. Sew rest of design up through color 8, feet placement line. Place squares over feet areas.
• 6c. Sew color 9 to attach feet. Trim around feet leaving a small margin of exposed fabric around the edge leaving the tho

Finishing

• 1. Remove from hoop and tear off stabilizer carefully right up to the design outline.
• 2. Carefully trim away the felt in the egg area to reveal the vinyl.
• 3. Trim around the outside of the design.
• 4. Optional: Add a snap to the back flaps to secured the goodies in the keeper. A tip here is to add a small piece of cutaway behind the snap to make the fabric more sturdy

Related Projects:

• In-the-Hoop Heart Candy Keeper
• Easy ITH Stuffie Bunnies
• In-the-Hoop Cuddle Bunnie

Stitch up a batch of bunnies in no time using your embroidery machine!

Recommended Fabrics

Smooth quilt-weight or light to medium-weight cotton or cotton/poly blends. Knit fabrics also work well. Due to the small size and intricate outlines, thick, textured or loosely woven fabrics are not recommended.

I found I got better results with a knit than woven. I had some slinky microsuede fabric in my stash that worked great! The stretchy fabric turned well, didn’t ravel so I could cut closely, and had a nice velvety “fur” texture.

Supplies

• Small amounts of fabric for bunny and appliqués
• Poly fill stuffing (soft, squishy kind)
• Tearaway stabilizer for woven fabrics, no-show cutaway for knits
• Embroidery threads
• Point turner or Hemostat for turning
• Hand needle and thread for closing
• TESA (Temporary Embroidery Spray Adhesive, such as Sulky KK2000

Optional

Small buttons, ribbons, or other trims to embellish your bunnies

Prepare Fabrics

5x7 Bunnies

• Bunny Front: Cut 1 piece of a fabric 6 x 8” (or simply hoop front fabric with appropriate stabilizer)
• Bunny Back: Cut 2 pieces 4 x 8”
• Use the templates to accurately cut any appliqués the design will use

4x4 Baby Bunny

• Bunny Front: Cut 1 piece of a fabric 5 x 5” (or simply hoop front fabric with appropriate stabilizer)
• Bunny Back: Cut 2 pieces 3 x 5”

If you have a hoop that’s just slightly larger than the design, you can just hoop the front fabric with the stabilizer. In that case, skip color 1, placement line.

Preparation

To make turning the bunny easier, the back pieces are seamed down the center leaving about a 2 1/2” - 3” opening in the middle.

With right sides together, sew 1/2” seam down one long side leaving the opening near the middle. Press seams open.

Cut out any appliqués required for your design using the included patterns. These designs are digitized for using precisely precut appliques, not for trimming in the hoop.

Embroidery

Refer to the color sequences for stitching.

1. Hoop stabilizer and sew color 1 for placement. Smooth fabric over placement guide, centering it and securing it with TESA, if desired. Sew color 2 to attach. DO NOT TRIM.

2. Following the color sequence guide for your design, stitch up to the last color. When placing appliqués for the boy and girl bunny, areas that extend into the seam allowances should not be trimmed. If you pre-cut the pieces using the included patterns, you won’t need to trim in the hoop.

3. Just before the last color, place the back fabric, face down on the top of the hoop, placing the seam about 1/2” to the right or left of the center to avoid seam bulk in tight turn areas.

Secure with TESA or straight pins, making sure they’re out of range of the needle. Place tape over the seams to keep them open. Stitch the last color.

Finishing

1. Remove the project from the hoop and remove the stabilizer

2. Trim seam allowances to 1/4” or so. I used pinking shears to ease the bulk. Cut notches into the tight corners up to the stitching line taking care not to cut through the stitches. Trimming carefully will make the turned bunny smooth.

3. Turn right side out: Starting with the ears or other small appendages, turn right side out. Take your time and smooth out all the seams.

4. Stuff bunny starting with the ears and then the feet. Take small balls of stuffing and work them to the tips of the ears and toes.

You may need to use something (an unsharpened pencil, wooden spoon handle, nonworking end of a knitting needle, or hemostat) to help you get the stuffing all the way to the end.

Continue using small amounts of stuffing to fill the rest of the bunny. Your animal should be soft and squishy. Do not overstuff. Overstuffed animals can become damaged if the seams are stressed.

5. Hand stitch the opening closed.

Optional

Add small bows, buttons, or other embellishments.

Make a quick bag to hold some cash, credit cards, your phone, or other small items. Add a vinyl pocket for your name badge securely for a convention, trade show, or travel.

Video here: How to Embroider a Basic In-the-Hoop Zippered Bag.

You can easily customize this bag to suit your needs in many simple ways:

• Make it into a convention ID holder by adding on a clear vinyl badge holder pocket on the front, as shown above on the far left.
• Add an additional pocket on the back, front, or both.

There are multiple sizes in this collection. All bags are constructed exactly the same, only the fabric dimensions vary.

Add a plain loop or one with a swivel hook for keys either on the inside or out.

Small patch pockets and loops can be sewn to the back panel before layering in the hoop during the embroidery process.

• Add an elastic loop to hold a pen (not shown).
• Configure the strap to attach wide (as shown) or centered.
• Use cording, purchased strapping, grosgrain ribbon, or make your own strap as I did for this sample
• Add a slider to the cord to make it adjustable.
• Replace the strap with a short loop with a swivel hook to attach to a belt or belt loop.

Finish the bag in the hoop and allow your machine to do all the work or finish it more traditionally by stacking the pieces and then binding the edges as you would a quilt. (The vinyl pocket made turning difficult!)

Want to add a design or personalize the front of your bag? Insert that design between colors 5 & 6.

Avoid getting too carried away and accumulating too much bulk in the hoop. The machine may have difficulties with additional lumps and bulk and makes turning right side out more difficult, especially on smaller bags.

Another construction option is how to place the front fabric and lining pieces. I cut separate linings and attached them on the back side of the hoop; this will encase the zipper and give a more professional finish.

However, you could just cut longer pieces of the same fabric (cut the front panels on the fold) and align the folded edge along the zipper tape on the front—a good time-saving tip if you’re making these in quantity.

As with most ITH projects, you’ll notice many color changes but each of these bags was stitched in just one color. Choose your colors as desired but don’t recolor as a single color in software because those color stops are necessary to stop the machine to perform various steps.

This bag has no decorative stitching or quilting and I didn’t use any batting, only fusible interfacing. If you’re after an in-the-hoop only project, then skip the pockets and use purchase strapping materials—or skip it altogether—and you’ll still have a handy zippered pouch with no other sewing required.

About These Designs

It’s relatively easy to insert other designs into this bag design. In a design with multiple color stops like these, you’ll simply add it between the appropriate color changes. In this case, that’s between colors 5 and 6. Also note the slight change in the following step-by-step embroidery instructions to avoid stitching the design through the lining.

Check out this YouTube video that shows how to edit a redwork design into a new border and insert it into a plain version of this bag. How to Extract & Edit a Design in Embrilliance Enthusiast.

In that video, which goes along with the Echidna P.I.E. series of lessons, a basic plain ITH zippered bag was customized.

Skill Level

• Basic embroidery skills with the ability to follow directions!
• Basic sewing skills if you choose to make a strap or pocket

What You’ll Learn

• How to create a lined zippered bag with no exposed seams in the lining in just one hooping
• Some simple customizing options

Requirements

This project requires a minimum 130x180mm (5x7”) sewing field. It is not intended for split hoops.

Note About Links

In some cases, links to external web sites are included for more information on a technique or product. All the links were active at the time of writing but web sites can vanish and pages can change. If a link is no longer working, please let me know and then just use a search tool to see if the information can be found elsewhere. You may also find more info on this page: LindeeGEmbroidery.com/resource-list/

Please read through all instructions before starting your project! This project, while complex, is not really difficult because the embroidery takes care of all the construction. Cut and place carefully and you’ll have a successful result!

Resizing is not recommended!

Supplies

• I worked from my stash and mostly used remnants and fat quarters of various fabrics. Actual amounts depend how many different fabrics you’re using and what options you’re adding. Use the list of fabric dimensions to determine your requirements.
• Fusible interfacing (I used Pellon 950F ShirTailor)
• 1 polyester or nylon zipper that coordinates with your fabric and is at least 7” long (2” longer than the bag’s width). DO NOT USE A METAL ZIPPER!
• Stabilizer. Sulky Soft n Sheer, washaway tearaway; Hemingworth Wash-Away water soluble or Sulky Fabri Solvy, regular tearaway. See “A Note About Stabilizers” for more details.
• Coordinating embroidery thread. Polyester embroidery thread is recommended over rayon for any seam stitching during the bag construction.

Optional: You may wish to wind a matching bobbin for the designs but the only place you’ll see bobbin thread inside the finished bag is the zipper top stitching. I used black thread in the needle and bobbin on the two black bags and orange thread in the needle and white thread in the bobbin on the bag with the orange trim. Both bobbins were prewounds.

Adhesive options:

• Cellophane tape or other tape that won’t gum up the needle when sewn through (I used painter’s tape for the photos for visibility)
• Wonder Tape (sew through, double stick washaway tape, optional)
• Elmer’s School Glue sticks are also good (works better on tearaway than wash-away)
• Small strip of fusible web to close the lining or hand stitch to close

Other/Optional

• Narrow ribbon or constructed self-fabric strip for loop
• Strap (cording, grosgrain ribbon, purchased webbing, prepared strap, or self-fabric) of desired length
• Small piece of clear, sewable vinyl for name badge pocket
• Small piece of fabric to bind top edge of vinyl
• TESA (temporary embroidery spray adhesive)
• Decorative pull or tie for the zipper tab
• Wide elastic for a pen loop
• Hardware for the optional loop: D-ring, swivel hook or other. Choose hardware size based on your strap width or adjust your strap to fit the hardware. Thinner less bulky hardware is best.

Equipment

• Embroidery machine with a minimum sewing field large enough for the design you’ve selected
• Steam iron
• Rotary cutter, ruler, mat
• Mini-iron
•  

A Note About Stabilizers

The stabilizer may or may not be hidden between the layers in this project, depending on how you place your front lining fabrics. If you use the two-piece lining method and place the lining on the back side of the hoop, the only exposed stabilizer is behind the zipper, which will be cut away.

If you choose the quicker one piece method from the front only, then the stabilizer will be exposed on the inside. Choose your stabilizer accordingly.

Wash-away tear-away: The advantages are that it’s less expensive than wash-away water soluble fiber products, it’s easier to tear out, it doesn’t shrink when you apply heat (you will need to do some pressing), and it takes better to glue stick. The disadvantages are that you can’t easily remove tape without tearing off layers of stabilizer, it’s less resistant to pins, and the product doesn’t tear cleanly.

Wash-away fiber. The advantages are that you can easily tape and remove it without damage. Also, since it’s not a tear-away, it stands up to pinning much better. You can get a tighter hold with pins than tape and pins won’t ravel out your fabric edges like tape can. The disadvantages of this stabilizer are higher cost, it must be removed by cutting or soaking, and it shrinks with pressing, which means you’ll need to remove it before pressing.

Soft n Sheer (No show mesh): This cutaway product is soft and won’t affect the feel or hand of your project. If you use the encased zipper method (linings are attached to the back of the hoop), then the only exposed stabilizer is right behind the zipper and can be easily cutaway. If you opt for the easier method, then the stabilizer will be exposed on the inside. If that will bother you, choose a different option

Tearaways: If you aren’t adding any extra designs to embellish the front, then removing the remaining stabilizer is relatively easy.

Sticky Stabilizers: There’s no good reason to use an adhesive product for this project. Sticky tearaways can make your project feel thick and stiff. Some adhesives gum the needle, which causes thread breaks. Adhesive stabilizers are more expensive.

Whatever you choose, make sure it will support the stitching, can be hooped securely without slipping, and can be removed without damaging the fabric. For example, if you’re using a dry clean only fabric, don’t use a water-soluble stabilizer.

Instruction

Find cutting chart for all sizes at the end of this PDF. The sizes listed here are for the original bag only. Assembly is identical for all bags in this set.

Cut Fabrics

It’s smart to prewash and preshrink your fabrics beforehand. Also, to get rid of any washaway stabilizer, you’ll likely have to soak or launder and dry your bag so consider that when choosing fabrics.

Cut 1 each of outer fabric, lining fabric, & interfacing:

• Front top: 6” x 2”
• Front bottom: 6” x 6.75”
•  

Any of the above can be cut from one fabric on the fold (place the fold on the 6” crosswise dimension).

Cut 1 each of outer fabric and interfacing:

• Back: 6” x 8”

Cut 1 each of lining for the back:

• Upper lining: 6” x 10” - fold wrong sides together to 6” x 5”
• Lower lining: 6” x 8” - fold wrong sides together to 6” x 4”

If you’re using thicker fabrics or are short on fabric, cut the back pieces long enough to allow one hemmed edge with total 9” tall between the two.

Optional pockets:

• Back Pocket (optional): 6” x 6.75” (or desired height + .5”) outer fabric; add another .5” in height for lining if using the lining to create a contrasting edge
• Back Pocket (option 2), folded edge pocket: Cut 1 piece 6” wide by twice the height of the desired pocket plus 1/2”
• Front Pocket: Determine the height and of your desired pocket+ .5” for outer fabric; add another .5” in height for lining if using the lining to create a contrasting edge. Width is 6”. Or, use the folded over method:Cut 1 piece 6” wide by twice the height of the desired pocket plus 1/2”.

Optional: name badge pocket:

• Vinyl pocket: 6” x 4”
• Double fold binding 6” long

It’s better to cut your pockets longer and then fine tune the placement when adding them in the hoop. Any excess can hang over the bottom edge and be trimmed off when finishing.

Strap, as seen (if constructing):

• 2” x desired length + 1/2”. If you’d like a wider strap, determine the desired finished width and multiply by 4.<?li>

Preliminaries

1. Press all fabrics and starch if desired.

Starching isn’t necessary but if you aren’t interfacing your fabrics, it can give them a little more structure for stitching. Adding body to the your fabrics will help them lay smoother in the hoop. ITH projects involve floating and layering multiple fabrics in the hoop and extra steps are needed to prevent shifting or slipping.

2. Apply interfacing to the bag front and back panels (outer fabrics).

Interfacing can give your bag more structure and more durability. It also adds some nice body to your bag and can give it a more polished look; it can also help control raveling. Don’t go too heavy nor stiff with your interfacing or your bag will be more difficult to turn.

Be sure to fuse the interfacing securely so that it won’t separate when turning the bag right side out.

3. Make the strap.

My sample bag has a simple, narrow strap attached directly to the bag with no additional hardware. A nice option here is to have something to make the strap adjustable for wearing around the neck (ID holder) or across the body. The badge holder would also work well with a cord but if you plan to also carry your phone in it, something wider is more comfortable.

Press the strip in half lengthwise. Then open the strip and press each long edge matching the raw edge to the center fold. Refold the piece and press well. Once again, starch is your friend!

Depending on your fabric and your use, you may want to add a strip of interfacing. For the orange trimmed bag, I cut a strip of stabilizer a scant quarter width of the cut fabric and butted it up to the first fold and pressed in place.

When inserting the strap directly into the bag seam, there’s no need to finish the ends.

Top stitch 1/8” from the edges starting on the side with the two folded edges.

On smaller bags, avoid stitching a bulky strap directly to the bag. Instead, add smaller attachment loops to which your longer strap can be secured.

On these bags, I kept my project simpler (and less expensive) by attaching the strap directly to the bag instead of attaching it to hardware attached to loops. However, on a longer, thicker, or bulkier strap, this may be too much to accommodate in the hoop. In this case you’ll be better off with short loops with D-rings or something similar.

4. OPTIONAL: Prepare fabric pockets.

Basic pockets are easy additions. You can make a simple folded over version or make a slightly fancier one like mine. After stitching the lining to the back pocket, I folded the lining up and over the seam allowance to have a short band of color along the top. Optionally, you could stitch in the ditch for more stability.

If you want the length of the lining to match that of the pocket front, you’ll need to cut your lining 1/2” longer for a quarter inch seam.

I didn’t apply interfacing to this back pocket.

I made my pocket taller than I really needed so I could fine tune the placement at the hoop. Any excess will just hang off the bottom and be cut off.

5. OPTIONAL: Prepare the vinyl pocket.

Stitch a piece of double fold seam binding across the top edgy of the vinyl pocket. You can make your own or use purchased premade binding. For this short straight edge, you can use either bias or straight of grain binding.

Embroidery

This bag is constructed in just one hooping! Don’t underestimate the time it takes to complete it and don’t rely on what your machine says for sewing time. You’ll need to remove the hoop and place pieces multiple times. Take your time and place pieces carefully for a successful result.

A separate color sequence PDF is included and lists the steps in these designs. Do not try to recolor ITH designs to match what you might actually be stitching. All those color stops are vital to having the machine stop when it’s time to do something. You really only need to change thread colors if you want to match a different area of your bag.

Normally the best hoop size is one just larger than the design. If you have a larger hoop, you’ll have more free space around the design to tape various elements to the stabilizer where the tape is outside the stitching area.

You may want to raise your presser foot height slightly to avoid “tripping” over various pieces and causing them to shift.

1. Hoop stabilizer securely between the rings of your hoop.

Smaller hoops are generally more secure than larger ones with long straight sides. If your stabilizer slips during stitching, you’ll experience problems. Take any necessary measures to prevent slippage.

One way is with duct tape. Tear strips in half lengthwise, apply to the back of the stabilizer along the hoop edges and wrap up and around the sides of the hoop. (I do this a lot! It’s better to be safe than sorry.)

2. Stitch color 1 for placement lines.

Color 1 sews directly onto the stabilizer only. Small indents mark the horizontal and vertical centers for assisting with precise placement of patterned fabrics. The two registration marks at the top and bottom indicate the overall bag center and the center of the main body area. These can help you if you choose to edit in another design or align fabrics.

Once you place your fabrics, these guides will no longer be visible so if you plan to use them, simply extend them onto the stabilizer with a pen. This stabilizer will be removed later so any marker will work.

3. Place the zipper.

Align the closed zipper, right side up, with the zipper tab at the right of the design making sure the metal ends are well outside the stitch line. The zipper will perfectly fit within the blank area of the stitching guides.

I prefer to keep the long extension off the top end of the zipper instead of centering the zipper over the space. That way I can use the leftover bits for other decorative purposes.

On very long zippers, I like to unzip it so that I can see the zipper tab as a visual reminder to move it into the bag area when it’s time!

I often like to apply strips of water soluble fusible Wonder Tape within the zipper placement guides to secure the zipper for stitching. Wonder Tape will hold the zipper more securely and reduce shifting.

A glue stick is another option and is more economical if a little messier. It works best when applied to the zipper tape. I also found it sticks better on the wash-away tear-away than the water soluble wash-away fiber.

If you use a glue stick, take care not to use heat, which can cause the stabilizer to fuse too securely to the zipper. While it will wash out, you’ll need to be able to open the zipper before you finish stitching and fusing too well can prevent that.

Alternatively, you can use painter’s tape or invisible tape to hold the zipper in place. Neither one will gum up the needle; the invisible tape is easier to remove without tearing stitches. Tape is hard to peel off wash-away tear-away without damaging the stabilizer but works fine on wash-away fiber or cutaway.

Notice here the tape is outside the placement lines so I can leave it there throughout the embroidery process to keep the zipper ends from interfering with the needle.

If your zipper isn’t smooth, press it before taping.

4. Stitch the zipper to the stabilizer.

Return the hoop to the machine and sew color 2, which will stitch the zipper to the stabilizer. Remove the hoop from the machine and remove the tape that could get sewn in. Trim any jump stitches if your machine didn’t trim them for you.

If you can remove the tape without disrupting the stabilizer, I recommend removing any tape that’s no longer needed as you go to keep it from becoming embedded in the project.

IMPORTANT! If your machine doesn’t have auto-trimmers, be sure to clip jump threads not only on the top, but on the bottom. You’ll need to remove the hoop to trim the bottom threads.

5. Place the front top fabric panel.

There are two ways to attach the fabric to the zippers. The method illustrated here will encase the zipper.

If you’d like a faster method, apply both the outer fabric and the lining to the front. Place the outer fabric face down and the lining face up on top of the outer fabric. If you’ve simply cut longer pieces of the same fabric, fold the fabric wrong sides together and align the folded edge along the zipper tape.

Place the top front fabric panel right side down with the raw edges aligned along the zipper tape edge on the top edge of the zipper.

You can hold the fabric in place with more Wonder Tape, regular tape, glue stick, or pins. If you use pins, either remove them as you stitch to avoid sewing over them or make sure they are out of the range of the presser foot and needle.

The next color will zigzag the raw edges of the fabric to the edge of the zipper tape and then sew the straight seam to attach the panel. This seam will be used as a fold line and the later top stitching will provide additional security.

Once this stitching is complete, remove the hoop from the machine, flip the fabric up and finger press along the seam line. I also used a mini-iron to press the seam flat. Secure the piece for stitching and stitch color 3 to top stitch the top panel next to the zipper and then tack the piece to the stabilizer.

The tack-down stitches will also provide a placement guide. The final stitching will sew just inside this stitching.

The tack-down stitches have squared corners in case you choose to complete the assembly with bound edges instead of finishing in the hoop

6. OPTIONAL: Add extra embellishments to front.

Before applying the lower front panel, you can add optional loops, decorative trims or bands.

For a hidden seam, lined finish, pay close attention to fabric placement and orientation. All outer fabrics are place on the top or front side of the hoop (needle side). All lining pieces are placed on the bottom or back of the hoop (bobbin side).

7. Repeat the process to attach the bottom panels.

Similarly to the top stop panels, place the lower panels, aligning their top edges face down, matching the fabric’s top raw edge with the bottom edge of the zipper tape. The outer piece is placed on the front of the hoop and lining is placed on bottom of the hoop.

The next color will zigzag the raw edges of the fabric to the edge of the zipper tape and then sew the straight seam to attach the panel.

8. OPTIONAL: If you’ve added your own design, do this next.

Fold down and press the front panel only and secure it in place. Stitch any custom design you’ve added.

9. Top stitch and tack bottom panels.

Flip the fabric panels down on both sides and finger press along the seam line. A miniiron is helpful here to press the seam flat. Secure the front and back pieces for stitching and stitch the next color to top stitch the lower panel next to the zipper and then tack the piece to the stabilizer.

10. Optional: Attach the top strap and loops above the zipper and staystitch.

Note: If you’re not adding any straps or loops, you can advance to the next color. If you forget, no worries—these stitches will be hidden in the final project.

The top strap can be placed anywhere along the top edge between the two outer placement marks. A double pass staystitch will run across the outline of the top panel to provide extra security for any strap or hanging loop.

Place the strap face down with the raw edges extending at least 1/4 “ beyond the tack down stitching. Secure with tape and stitch the next color.

Run the tape over the stitching line to form a “ramp” to allow the presser foot to glide more easily over the strap without “tripping” on any raised areas.

11. IMPORTANT! Open the zipper.

Unzip the zipper and move the tab to about 1” from the left tack down stitching. If you fail to do this, you won’t be able turn your bag!

12. Position and tape the front pocket, if you have one.

Place the prepared pocket, right side up making sure the bottom extends at least 1/4” below the tack down stitching. Make sure it’s straight.

13. Secure the strap.

If you’ve attached a long strap, secure it with tape to make it flat and keep it out the final seam. Avoid any extra bulk in the center of the hoop; the foot will return to the center when the design completes and can catch on high points.

Keeping any added elements as flat as possible will allow the bag back to lie as smoothly as possible.

Standard Finish

14. Layer on the outer pieces on the top (front) of the hoop.

Any back pieces (outer fabric) are placed on the front and the lining is placed on the back.

If you’re adding a back pocket, place it right down making sure the sides and bottom extend over the tack down stitch at least 1/4”.

Place the back panel right side down. If you have a directional print, make sure the intended top is placed toward the zipper.

15. Layer on the lining pieces on the bottom (back) of the hoop.

Dimensional flowers are surprisingly quick and easy to make. Not only that, but they take only minimal supplies and not much time. I love that I can attach them to most anything and have an instant embroidered accent without making a permanent commitment. Embroidered 3D flowers make the perfect holiday accessory or gift! Wouldn’t they make a lovely decorative touch on special gift?

Skill Level

• Basic embroidery and hand sewing

This project involves only simple hand sewing after embroidering (or gluing, if you prefer).

What You’ll Learn

• How to create a three dimensional floral corsage
• How to keep thin slippery fabrics from slipping in the hoop

Please read through all instructions before starting your project!

Supplies

• Nylon organza
• Rayon embroidery thread
• Matching bobbin thread
• Small sharp scissors for trimming away fabric
• Soldering iron for melting fabric
• Magnets or pin backs for attaching to garments
• Small piece craft-weight felt (I use dark green most often) and or scraps of cutaway
• Temporary embroidery spray adhesive (TESA)
• White school glue, hot glue, hand needle and thread (I used invisible thread and embroidery bobbin thread)
• Beads, buttons, or brooch for flower centers
• Optional: Acrylic paint, inks, brushes, colored pencils
• Water mister bottle

Nice to Have

• Light table for precise alignment when stacking pieces to stitch in the hoop

Preliminaries

Dimensional flowers and leaves are stitched on two layers of nylon organza (no additional stabilizer), then cut out close to the stitching, and finally finished with a soldering iron to melt away the remaining fibers and fuse the edges. For best results, stitch with rayon embroidery thread with a matching color bobbin. Rayon is more heat resistant than polyester, which tends to scorch, especially on lighter colors.

Pieces thus finished can then be assembled. Some pieces may be attached with an embroidery motif, most often a flower center, which may be part of a design or separate. Sometime I attach them by sewing the bottom most layer last, and then while it is still hooped, place the top layers, then stitch together. Another way is to hoop a piece of cutaway or craft felt, position all the pieces and stitch together. How the flower is assembled depends on the type of flower.

I often prefer to use beads, buttons, or other items as a flower center. Using a drop of white school glue in the center of the flowers will hold the layers together and keep them from shifting while hand stitching them together. Assembled flowers along with the leaves are then arranged on a piece of dark green craft felt and hand stitched or hot-glued in place. Trim the felt back so it isn’t visible. Attach a pin back or use magnets. Magnets will let you use your corsage on leather or suede garments where a pin could cause damage.

Your corsage can be used on hats, purses, or garments. They make great gifts and craft show items. Smaller ones work well for hair bows or glued to a hair clip.

About the Fabric

Nylon organza is ideal for this project. Nylon organza comes in a wide range of colors, it’s relatively inexpensive, readily available, is lightweight and has enough body to retain it’s shape, and is quite stable. Indeed, I often use it as a cutaway stabilizer inside cardigans where the inside is likely to be visible. Finding a color that matches or blends looks better than the basic choices we have in standard stabilizers. I usually pick up a few yards when I find a new color or it’s on sale so I always have some in my stash. (I find it in the bridal section of the chain fabric stores and also order online.)

Do make sure you choose nylon and not polyester. Nylon melts quickly and easily, well before there is any thread damage. Polyester also has a softer hand than nylon and won’t hold its shape as well.

While nylon does have all these wonderful characteristics, it is very thin and slippery. You’ll need to take precautions to keep it from slipping in the hoop.

Also, you’ll likely get better results stitching each design separately or combining only a few in a small hoop rather than ganging up more and using a larger hoop. Smaller elements can be combined as long as you don’t have to increase your hoop size to accommodate them.

Feel free to choose your own colors. Who says you have to use a realistic one? You can also get interesting effects by using two different colors layered together. For example, you could layer white with pink to get a softer color.

About the Designs

These designs are organized by folder. There’s a folder for each flower and a separate one for the leaves. The leaves are designed to give you some variety and are not meant to be “botanically correct” leaves. Choose any leaf you like for your project or skip them altogether!

With many elements in this collection, you’ll find multiple sizes. You may want to stack different size pieces or you may want to have a variety of finished size flowers. Note that using the provided resized designs will keep the stitching consistent between pieces. Use caution when resizing designs to avoid excessively long or short satin stitches.

Don’t feel that you have to use every piece in folder or that you can only use one of each piece. Get creative! Mix and match and create your own hybrids! You can make more than the samples shown here!

The aster, carnation, rose, and poinsettia flower elements have an appliqué stop (noted as a color change) after the first outline. This is to allow you the option to add color with paint, ink, or other media. Use the same color as color 2 for this color.

Some of the flower elements (carnation and poinsettia) have small circles digitized into the center. You can use these to align multiple elements. A separate circle is also included and is in the Center Tack folder. This is a two-step design. Sew the first color as a placement guide onto a piece of hooped cutaway or felt. Then position all the layers on top securing them with tape. Finally, sew the second color.

While you likely have a smaller hoop that will accommodate the design used for the flower center, it may not provide enough area to secure the petals easily.

These designs are digitized to sew fast and feature the fabric rather than fully fill stitched flowers. Additional color can be introduced by layering two fabric colors or with ink, paint, colored pencils, or similar media.

Use the smaller (upper) layers of some designs to create smaller flowers.

Detailed Instructions

1. Wind a matching bobbin. Because these designs aren’t densely stitched, you can use the same 40-weight thread in the bobbin as the needle. If your machine is pre-tensioned for a thinner bobbin thread, you may need to do some tension adjustments. Every machine is different so this is something you can check during your test sew. If you have colored bobbins, they’ll work even if they’re polyester. The needle thread will wrap around to the back and the soldering iron won’t (or shouldn’t) be touching the poly so you shouldn’t have issues with scorched thread unless you overdo it with the soldering iron.

2. Preparing your fabrics. Preshrinking is not necessary. If your fabric has creases in it, keep in mind you can’t iron it. You can steam it with an iron—just don’t touch the iron to the fabric. I usually buy nylon organza in minimum 1 yard lengths. I hoop whatever amount I have and then just trim out the pieces after sewing. I also wait until I’ve sewn as many pieces as I plan out of particular color before trimming. This makes the best use of the fabric. (I’m not cheap, I’m economically minded!)

You can reduce waste by working with whole pieces of fabric and then trimming afterwards. In this case, you’ll want to hoop so that the bulk of the fabric is out of the way—usually to the left on most domestic single-needle machines.

You can mist the layers with TESA to keep them from slipping during stitching.

TESA will dissipate over time so prepare your layers when you have time to embroider.

To prevent slippage, I like to cut a piece of scrap cutaway into a “hoop window” that gets hooped with the fabric. This also cushions the fabric from any damage caused by an overly tight hoop.

3. Stitch your designs. No special tricks here; just remember to change your bobbin when changing needle thread colors. Some elements have an appliqué stop programmed. The design will sew an outline and then stop. This is an optional stop to make it easy to add more color using other media. My favorite is a little dry brushing with acrylic paint. This technique requires no drying time and is quick and easy.

Remove the hoop from the machine but not the fabric from the hoop. Load the brush with a little a paint and brush of the excess on a paper towel. Lightly flick the paint onto the hooped fabric as desired. You can paint one or both sides. It’s better to layer multiple light coats than one heavy one.

You don’t have to worry about “staying in the lines” because anything outside of the run stitch will be removed.

“Dry brush” means exactly that! If you rinse your brush between applications, it must be completely dry before the next one.

4. Finishing your embroidery. When all your elements are stitched, carefully cut them out close to the stitching.

Heat up your soldering iron and quickly glide around each piece right next to the stitching. The remaining fibers will melt away and the fused edge will be a little more secure. Be sure to clean off your soldering iron frequently by wiping it on several layers of old towel. This is especially important if you’re working with lighter colors or polyester thread to avoid dark scorch marks.

Some people prefer to leave their flowers or leaves hooped and place it on a tile and then quickly zip around it with the soldering iron or wood burning tool. Since I prefer to sew a strip full of pieces to maximize my fabric usage, I think this method wastes fabric. Try both ways and see which you prefer.

5. Build your flowers and create your corsage.

Now the fun really begins. Some flowers will need to be hand stitched while other can be stitched together in the hoop. Leaves can be hand-stitched or hot-glued.

Layer your pieces and decide how you will assemble them. Separate instructions are included for each flower. Get creative with the elements. For example, stitch just the inner petals of the rose for a bud or use the smaller inner petals of the poinsettia to make a smaller flower. Leaves can also be used as petals—simply stitch them in different colors and combine them as you wish.

When combining several small flowers into a cluster, I prefer to attach them to a piece of green craft felt. You can hot-glue or hand-stitch as desired.

6. Shape your flower. You can shape your flowers by pinching and scrunching them. Misting with water will cause them to curl a bit into a more natural looking shape. Misting can also revive a flattened corsage.

7. Attach a pin or a magnet to the back of your corsage. I like the magnets because I can use it with my suede and leather jackets without damage. Just hot glue one magnet to the corsage and use a second inside your garment. I found them on the notions wall at my local chain fabric store.

Notes About Resizing

Many elements are included in different sizes for design consistency and flexibility. “Design consistency” means the satin columns on each element are the same width and the stitch lengths on run stitch details are the same. If you choose to resize any elements, choose an element that is closest in size to what you want. Shrinking may make the satin stitches too short.

Aster

The aster includes ten sizes of petals and two sizes of sepals allowing you to make a range of sizes of this flower. Asters come in a variety of colors; I’ve stitched them with a lighter lavender under a darker one. The shape of these petals makes them useful for other similar flowers like daisies or chrysanthemums and even marigolds.

The sepals and the smallest aster petals are the same shape; use them to make a small flower by stitching them on a “flower colored” organza.

The aster can be finished with the fringed center in the aster folder, the center circle or by hand with buttons or beads. Hand stitched French knots would be lovely.

The fringed center has three color stops and can be sewn in one color. The first color is a placement guide to align petals. Color two is the candlewicking stitches and color three is the fringe.

Don’t want fringe? Stop after color two.

The three separate colors in this design are for convenience and to force the machine to stop. Feel free to use as many or as few colors as you like.

When using the fringed center, take care to align your pieces accurately; a light table can help. I recommend sewing on only the inner most petal design you plan to use to avoid stitching through too many layers of stitches.

To create the fringe, trim the bobbin thread and then lift the fringing stitches on the front with a pair of tweezers. You can have loops by cutting only the bobbin thread or you can cut the loops for a fluffier finish.

Use the center tack design to layer and stitch the rest of your design. Hot glue the fringed center to the center of the other layers.

Carnation

There are two sizes of this design; the smaller one will fit a 4x4” hoop.

I painted around the edges on both sides of the carnation using the dry brush technique.

Use the center tack stitch to embroider the sepal and petals 1 - 5 together.

Roll Petals 6 into a loose tube shape and glue at the base. I used Elmer’s to avoid burning my fingers. Hold with a paper clip until dry. Use a hot glue gun to attach Petals 6 to the center of the rest of the flower. Leaves were also hot glued to the back.

Hydrangea

This flower will require the most hand work!

Individual petal groups are hand stitched with small pearlized bead to the base piece. Sew as many or a few as you like. The sample here uses slightly more than the smaller group. Because the beads add weight, you may want to add a layer of cutaway or felt as a support beneath the base flower.

Pinch up the petals to make them more dimensional.

Poinsettia

The poinsettia, like the aster, includes a wide range of petal sizes to allow you to create multiple sizes. You can choose graduated sizes or use several of the same size.

Stitch and stack petals as desired. The petals can be stitched together with the center tack circle design or by hand with beads or a button for the center.

This flower offers the most opportunity to create different sizes of flowers since each set of petals is just a resized version. The larger petals do exceed a 4”x4” sewing field.

You can also create small flowers using 2 or 3 of the smaller sizes. Try combining multiple pieces of identically sized petals just offsetting the points for variation. Sew in different colors to get a more daisy-like flower.

Rose

I stitched my rose in Softlight Soft Gold in the needle and bobbin with one layer of pink and second of white organza underneath with some paint applied to the pink side only for additional interest.

The rose petals are grouped to fit a 4” x 4” hoop. The rose pieces increase in the number of petals from one (the center) to six (the outer most).

The rose is finished by hand stitching, building from the center out. Start by rolling the center most piece into a “bud” and hand stitch to hold shape. Stitch the other partial petals by whip stitching the open ends together.

Nestle the five inner pieces inside each other and hand stitch at the base from the bottom.

Hot glue the inner petals to the center of the outer most petal, add leaves, and pin or magnet.

Leaves

A variety of leaf shapes and sizes are included; simply select the ones you want to use and hot glue or hand stitch leaves, arranging as desired to the bottom of your corsage.

Summary

I love making these corsages. They’re quick to sew and offer a lot of creative options. Plus, I can add embroidery to any garment or even a hat or purse that’s changeable with the season, occasion or my mood! Keep a stash on hand for easy gift-giving throughout the year!

This project collection includes several in-the-hoop sewing organizer variations. Choose from a full in-the-hoop version with open quilting and tie closure for a full no-sew project or a mostly in-the-hoop with self-fabric button loop and bound edges or a combination in between!

The sample with the bound edges skips the last 2 colors of the last hooping (ITH lining) and is finished with a bias binding sewn in a more “traditional” manner. Personally, I prefer the look of bound ones rather than a turned edge, especially when bulky techniques like quilting are involved. This version also has a few other enhancements, some of which require just a few minutes of straight stitching. The double zipper pouch was made by making two of the zipper designs and varying how the pieces are assembled. Instructions are included.

The full in-the-hoop project is not at all difficult as all the intricate stitching is done by your embroidery machine. It’s a great project to use up scraps from your stash. If you need to purchase fabrics, fat quarters can get you going without a large investment in yardage.

If this is your first in-the-hoop project, I recommend starting with the easiest versions first. Once you see how I adapted the inside of the bound edge version, you can go crazy customizing your own. You can also use the plain quilted cover design to make quick organizers for other uses, not just sewing, perhaps with custom monograms for a special gift.

Featured Techniques

• In-the-Hoop Zipper
• Trapunto
• Programmed stippling and quilting

Please read all instructions before beginning!

Overview

The designs are set up so you can complete the project in the hoop by choosing to attach the front and back together in the hoop, if desired. If you plan to do that, choose a softer batting and stabilizer for the cover. Also, it is recommended that you use one of the covers with the lighter quilting rather than the stippled version.

In-the-hoop projects are great for those who don’t know how—or don’t like—to sew. Feel free to just embroider the outer section and customize the inside to suit your own needs!

Note that color changes are included on some design files simply to create a stop; please use a thread color that coordinates with your project—in most cases you can use the same color for all the color stops of both the zipper and the lining. If you are sewing on a multi-needle machine, please be aware and program your color changes accordingly.

For added durability, you may wish to sew the construction steps with a sturdier thread than Rayon embroidery thread. I didn’t do this as these areas are double stitched and often top-stitched as well so they are plenty sturdy.

If your fabrics are particularly soft and don’t have a lot of body, starching them can help make assembly easier. You may wish to lightly mist TESA onto pocket pieces to keep them in position during tack down stitching or just use a few pins or cellophane tape outside the sew lines. Do what you feel is necessary to achieve a good result.

This project requires an embroidery machine with a minimum 200 x 300mm sewing field. It is not split for smaller hoops and it is not recommended that you shrink the designs to fit a smaller hoop.

Abbreviations

• TESA - Temporary Embroidery Spray Adhesive
• ITH - In-the-Hoop

Supplies for Basic Version

• Cover with matching lining: 5/8 yd
• Inside pockets: small scraps or fat quarters

Outer cover

• 1 piece of neutral fabric for the cover (I chose a white on beige print) (10” x 14”)
• 1 piece of fusible batting, low loft batting, or fleece (8” x 12”)
• 1 9” nylon zipper to coordinate with fabric (can be longer; excess will be cut off)

Zippered pocket

From coordinating fabric cut:

• 1 piece 8.5” x 1.75” for top section
• 1 piece 8.5” x 4.5” for larger pocket section

Slotted open pockets

From coordinating fabrics cut:

• 1 piece 8.5” x 8” for front pocket section, folded in half to 8.5” x 4”
• 1 piece 8.5” x 9.5” for back pocket section, folded in half to 8.5” x 4.75”

These measurements are for pockets folded in half with the fold along the open end.

Lining fabric

For full ITH project

• 1 piece (8.5” x 6”) of coordinating fabric for upper lining piece, folded in half to 8.5” x 3”
• 1 piece (8.5” x 19.5”) of coordinating fabric for lower lining piece, folded in half to 8.5” x 9.75”

For bound edge project

• 1 piece (8.5” x 12.5”) of coordinating fabric for the cover (not folded) Stabilizer
• 1 hoop size piece cutaway • Use a heavy cutaway for outer cover for a sturdy product (may not be suitable if you plan to finish in the hoop)
• Use a no show mesh for a softer version or if planning to complete the entire project in the hoop
• Stabilizer for lining & zipper (no show mesh cutaway preferred) Other supplies
• Large button or ribbon for tied version of the project
• Short piece of gros grain ribbon, narrow fabric tube, or elastic for button loop closure
• Short piece of ribbon or cord for zipper pull, optional
• Optional: Fabric for bias binding if finishing with this method

Other Notions

• Embroidery thread
• Sewing thread
• Double stick embroidery tape
• Collins Washaway Wonder Tape
• Cellophane tape (shown in photos as gray duct tape for visibility purposes)
• Straight pins
• TESA
• Rotary cutter, ruler, cutting mat
• Basic sewing supplies Nice to Have
• Fast Turn tube turners, if making the self-fabric button loop

The Designs

This collection includes 5 design files, which are numbered in the approximate sewing order:

• lgp00401 - Fully stippled cover design with trapunto “Love to Sew” in relief on back
• lgp00402 - Simplified cover for faster sewing and easier turning
• lgp00403 - Quilted plain cover for your own customizing
• lgp00404 - ITH zipper design for zippered pockets
• lgp00405 - ITH interior to stitch all the pockets in place, button closure, and attach to outer cover

Worksheets are included for the various files in this project. Please note that the colors on the worksheets will likely not match what you see in your files. Use colors that work with your fabrics.

Instructions

Preliminaries

I’m a fan of prewashing/preshrinking fabrics before sewing. All fabrics were pre-washed and pressed before cutting for the samples shown here. I did not notice a significant difference working with starched versus unstarched pieces.

If you have multiple machines with sufficient sewing fields, you can sew the cover on one machine while working on the interior on another.

Process Overview

1. Choose finishing method (full ITH or partial) and based on that, select a suitable cover.

2. Prepare fabrics: cut and press. Press zipper smooth.

3. Embroider an outer cover.

4. Embroider ITH zipper.

5. Construct the button loop if using a self-fabric closure as shown in the samples.

6. Embroider ITH lining.

7. Attach outer cover to lining.

8. Hand sew button into place if using button closure

Step 1: Preparations

Start by choosing your finishing method. If you want a full ITH project, cover 1 with the intense stippling and trapunto’d “Love to Sew” lettering is not the best choice. Due to the heavy stitching, this cover is much harder to turn right side out. Covers 2 and 3 work best (and sew the fastest) for finishing ITH.

The second choice is to decide on a closure style. The tied sample shown here can be finished completely in the hoop with absolutely no hand sewing. The button loop shown could be replaced with a strip of elastic or ribbon.

Note when cutting fabrics that the full ITH version requires more fabric for the lining; this is due to the turning method used. Cutting, folding (as needed), and pressing all fabrics before hand will speed the sewing process. Feel free to use fabrics of your choice; quilt weight wovens work well.

Step 2/Hooping 1: Outer cover

1. If using a fusible fleece or batting, press fabric smooth and fuse batting to center of fabric using a teflon press cloth to protect your ironing surface.

Fusible batting will feel quite stiff until laundered. I used fusible on the bound edge version and polar fleece for the tied version.

2. Hoop the stabilizer and sew placement stitch directly on the stabilizer.

3. Remove hoop from machine and smooth double stick embroidery outside placement guides or pin fabric to stabilizer outside of stitching lines. Press fabric into place making sure batting extends slightly beyond the placement stitching on all sides.

4. Color 2 bastes the fabric into position; color 3 stitches the redwork, and color 4 quilting and zigzagging the outer edge. Colors 1 - 3 may be sewn with the same thread color

5. Remove from hoop and trim away excess stabilizer. Using the edge formed by the stipple stitching as a guide, trim allowing 1/2” seam allowance for ITH version or 1/4” for bound edge version. Set aside

Step 3/Hooping 2: Zipper Pocket
1. Hoop stabilizer and sew placement stitch directly on the stabilizer

2. Smooth down strips of Wonder Tape or other washaway sewable tape to hold zipper in 
place.

3. Align closed zipper right side up along sewn guidelines, extending excess zipper length 
at both ends. Zipper pull and metal end should be at least 1/2” away from any sew lines. I 
prefer to place the zipper so it opens from left to right.

4. Secure zipper in place with tape outside of sewing area over the zipper ends

5. Place the upper zipper pocket fabric right side down over the zipper aligning fabric raw 
edge just over finished zipper tape edge. (Fabric should cover zipper.)

6. Return hoop to machine and sew next color which sews seam and zigzags raw edge to 
zipper tape (next color).

7. Fold over fabric away from zipper teeth and finger press into place.

8. Sew the topstitching.

9. Repeat steps 3-6 for the opposite side of the zipper pocket.

10. Remove from hoop. Trim away stabilizer taking care not to cut any seams. Test the zipper to verify it opens and closes.

11. Close zipper and square up section so that there is 3 3/4” of fabric from folded edge of 
bottom section to bottom. Any excess on top will be trimmed off at the end.

12. Move zipper pull to center. Set aside.

Step 4: Button Loop

Choose a button and make a loop that can easily loop around the button plus 1” for 1/2” seam allowance on each end. Your loop can be made of elastic, ribbon, fabric tube, cording or whatever you desire.

To make the one shown on the sample, cut a 2” x 6.5” piece of fabric (loop will be cut to size later), fold in half lengthwise, right sides together and stitch along raw edge using a 1/4” seam allowance. Use a tube turner to quickly turn inside out. Press with seam allowance on one edge. Fold as shown (seam allowances on inside edge) and top stitch pointed end to hold in place.

Determine the vertical placement of your button loop by finding out how much of an opening you need for your button. It is better to err on the side of slightly too long than too snug!

If you prefer not to deal with a button closure, you can place a single piece of ribbon at each end or skip the closure altogether.

Step 5/Hooping 3: Caddy inside

1. Hoop stabilizer and sew placement stitch directly on the stabilizer (color 1)

2. For Full ITH version: The two notches near the top show the placement guides for the folded lining pieces.

Position the bottom section first, aligning the top folded edge with the top notches. Then place the upper section, aligning the bottom folded edge with the bottom notches. This opening will end up under the upper zipper pocket and is where you will turn your ITH project right side out.

Secure the pieces in place with pins placed well with basting guides or TESA to hold. On the right side where the top piece overlaps the bottom, take extra care to ensure that the fabric is smooth, flat and won’t trip the presser foot during tack down.

For bound version: Position 8’ x 12” lining fabric right side up and secure as needed.

3. Return the hoop to the machine and sew color 2.

Place & Stitch Open Pockets

4. Align folded edge of back pocket with notches A, aligning raw edges slightly beyond basted guide at bottom edge of the lining. (Refer to pattern guide if you have rotated the design for your machine.) You may wish to lightly TESA pockets in place.

5. Align folded edge of front pocket with notches B or as desired, aligning raw edges with basted guide at bottom edge of the lining. (Refer to pattern guide if you have rotated the design for your machine.)

Notch B is a suggested placement. As long as this pocket is shorter than the back pocket and the raw bottom edges extend to the bottom placement guide, you can adjust this pocket to suit your taste/need.

If your rear pocket raw edges do not reach to the basted guide line, either recut your fabric pockets or move the pocket down to meet the basted guide. If you choose the latter, your pocket divider stitching may extend off the top of the pocket but this is not a big deal.

6. Sew color 3 to attach pockets

Place & Stitch Zipper Pocket

Be sure zipper pull is at the 1/3 zipped point (2/3 open) point! This will make your project easier to turn and prevent the foot from getting caught on the zipper pull as it travels.

7.

A touch of delicate romance is a delight year round, not just for Valentine’s Day! Consider other holidays—Mother’s Day, Sweetest Day, birthdays—or just a special token to say “I’m thinking of you.”

This versatile little design can be sewn as a trinket box, sachet, or simply as hearts. You’ll notice the top has a small inner heart, perfect for customizing with another small design or a monogram. The bottom is more plain to reduce sewing time and provide a place for an additional message.

To make lining the box simple, I created 2 appliqués sized to fit into the lid and base. Lining is optional.

This small ring or trinket box is designed so that it may be sewn in a 4x4” or 100x100mm hoop. If you have a 5x7 hoop, you’ll find a longer side piece that can be used instead of piecing two smaller segments together for each side.

Please read all instructions before beginning

Included

• PDF instructions
• PDF Templates for
• Freestanding appliqué inserts
• Shaping lid
• PDF license & color sequences
• 8 embroidery designs

Designs

You’ll notice the focus of this design differs from many of the free-standing lace designs widely available on the internet these days. Those designs are often created by laying down a mesh of fill stitches as a fabric substitute and then stitching satin elements over the top. Such designs are quicker to digitize but they don’t capture the elegance of the old time hand punched lace. I have incorporated areas of “mesh” on both the lid and the bottom to allow personalizing your heart box as desired.

Included designs:

• lgp00201-Lid
• lgp00202-Bottom
• lgp00203-Sides (for 5x7” hoop)
• lgp00204-Sides (for 4x4” hoop)
• lgp00205-Appliqué insert for lid
• lgp00206-Appliqué insert for bottom
• lgp00207-Sachet bag (in the hoop)
• lgp00208-Rosebud embellishment

Supplies

• 1/8” wide ribbon (matching or contrasting)
• Embroidery thread (metallic not recommended due to short stitch lengths)
• Bobbin thread (may match needle thread or use regular bobbin thread)
• Wash-Away stabilizer (I used products from Hemingworth and Perfect Solutions)
• 4x4” square of foam core
• Xacto knife
• Invisible thread for stitching side panels together
• Duct tape
• Wire cookie drying rack
• Thick, absorbent towel
• KK2000 or other TESA (temporary embroidery spray adhesive)
• Cellophane tape
• Straight pins
• Clear drying fabric glue (not hot glue gun)
• Needle with large eye for lacing ribbon
• Artist’s paint brush (small flat used for acrylics is perfect

Optional

• Bobbins wound with matching thread
• Fabric for lining the box (satin, velvet, velveteen, silk are excellent choices)
• Appropriate stabilizer for embroidering
• Medium weight cutaway stabilizer for appliqué stability
• Steam-A-Seam II for appliqué or other fusible web for appliqué
• Heat fusible tearaway (8” wide roll are perfect)
• Hot fix crystals for additional embellishing
• Potpourri for sachet
• Lining fabric for sachet

Cautions

• Resizing lace designs is not recommended.
• For optimum results, do not combine multiple pieces in larger hoop.
• This design was not digitized for metallic threads; you may get more thread breaks due to the shorter stitches.

Process Overview

1. Sew lace designs.
2. Cut out foam core template for shaping lid.
3. Trim stabilizer away close to designs. Rinse out stabilizer and shape appropriately to dry.
4. Optional: Apply hot-fix crystals.
5. Stitch side pieces together end to end to form one continuous loop.
6. Lace side piece to bottom with ribbon.
7. Lace ribbon through the lid rim.
8. Optional: Sew lining inserts, if desired and fit into lid and base.

General Tips for Lace

The quality of your lace depends heavily on proper hooping and machine tensions. If the thread tensions are too tight, the stitches will be pulled more and sections may not align properly, underlay may be exposed, and your design may fall apart in areas when the stabilizer is removed. You can also experience these problems if the stabilizer slips in the hoop.

Sometimes there are just a few errant stitches hanging out and these can be trimmed away with small thread snips.

• Sew in the smallest hoop that will accommodate the design. Do not combine multiple pieces in one hoop.
• For optimum results, hoop two layers of water-soluble fiber-based stabilizer (not film) in the hoop. Make sure both layers are smooth, taut and fully gripped between the rings of the hoop. I prefer duct taping the stabilizer to the hoop (after hooping).

Do not use a film type water soluble stabilizer. These stabilizers—even the very heavy ones—will perforate during stitching causing a loss of stability!

• Make sure your machine is clean and properly tensioned. Overly tight tensions will pull the stitches more tightly and may cause exposed travel and underlay stitches.
• After embroidering the lace, trim away excess stabilizer and rinse in water (refer to your stabilizer for appropriate temperature). Do not over-rinse; the remaining stabilizer will act as a stiffener to give your design body.
• To dry, smooth out the pieces on a thick, absorbent towel. Roll up the towel and press out the excess moisture; do not wring out lace. Lay the pieces out flat to air dry, shaping if distorted. You may wish to lightly steam press the pieces after drying to flatten if necessary,

The sides and bottom should dry flat, the lid needs to be shaped over the foam core form

Planning Your Project

Before you begin sewing, customize the designs if you wish. For example, add a monogram or small floral design, such as one of the florals from Building Blocks 1, Florals 1 or Building Blocks 6, Delicate Roses. You may also wish to add a small message to the bottom or here again, you can add some other designs. These additions can be sewn in the same color as the rest of your box or in contrasting ones

As a bonus, one of the rosebuds from Delicate Roses has been included with this project collection.

If you are not lining your box and you are sewing in a color other than white, you may want to wind some bobbins with matching thread so the inside looks just as pretty as the outside.

Sewing Lace Box Pieces

Sew one top, one bottom and one of the side piece designs.

Shaping the Lid

1. Make the shaping template.

Print the lid template, making sure it prints at full size. This template is sized to exactly fit within the embroidered lid.

Cut out loosely, spray the back with TESA and smooth onto the square of foam core. Using the X-acto knife, cut out by tracing the printed heart outline. Don’t try to cut all the way through at once.

Once the heart is completely cut out, you may want to wrap short lengths of cellophane tape around the cut edges to reinforce them.

Optional: Wrap the foam core heart in plastic kitchen wrap to protect it from the damp lace. (An especially goo idea if you are making multiples.)

2. Form the damp lid piece over the template.

The solid satin border should line up just along the outer edge. Fold the scallops over the side and hold in place with straight pins.

Optional Embellishment

Once the pieces are dry, now is the best time to apply hot fix crystals or other embellishments, if desired. Small pearls would look especially pretty

Assemble Sides

Using invisible thread and a zigzag stitch (multi-step or standard), butt the side pieces on the short ends and zigzag the sections to form one continuous loop. A stitch width and length of 1.5 to 2.0mm works well.

If you are concerned about getting a nice alignment, tape the ends to a piece of Wash-Away to hold in place during stitching. Trim off excess stabilizer and remove the remaining bits with a paintbrush dipped in water

One seam will match the center top and the opposite seam will match to the bottom point of the heart. If desired, weave a ribbon through the scallops similarly to lid edge.

Attach Sides to Bottom

There are two options for attaching the side piece to the bottom. One is to lace the pieces together using a ribbon (about 1 yard needed). The richelieu bars are designed to line up between the two pieces. Tuck the ends in and hand stitch or glue.

The other method is to join the seams similarly to how the side pieces were done. Using a machine zigzag and stitch from the outside of the box, matching the bars as you stitch

Don’t limit yourself to solid color ribbons or matching colors! There are some beautiful hand-dyed ribbons available or you can use fabric paints or inks to color your own

Finishing Lid

Once the lid has dried, remove the pins and foam core form. Lace a piece of ribbon (about 14” if no bow) through the scallops going over the center bar and under the scallop border. The ends can be hand stitched together on the inside (or glued) or the ends can be tied into a small bow. (I just used glue).

Creating the Lining Pieces

The included templates are used to precut your appliqué shapes for machine embroidery. For the sample here, I fused two pieces of fabric wrong sides together with a layer of medium weight cutaway sandwiched in the middle using Seam-A-Seam II. I also wound a bobbin with matching thread.

The drawback to lining the lid and including the stabilizer is that the rim of the lid is already very short (to keep it within a 100x100mm sewing field) and this added thickness will make the lid less secure.

Print the template at actual size, loosely cut out a pair of the lid and bottom templates and fuse to the top side of the fabric. (I printed on fusible tearaway in an ink jet printer.) Cut out shapes precisely along the outer edge of each line

At this point, you will need to consider your stabilizer. For example, if you’re using a fabric that cannot get wet, then a water soluble stabilizer will be a problem. (The paint-brush removal technique shown here can often be used on fabrics not suitable for soaking in water.) You will need to select a stabilizer that can be removed cleanly without damaging either the stitches or the fabric. For the steps shown here, I used one layer of Wash-Away.

Sew color one of the design for a placement guide directly onto the stabilizer. Remove the pattern template, lightly mist the back of the fabric appliqué with TESA and precisely place the piece over the stitched lines. Finish the design.

Remove from hoop and trim away the excess stabilizer close to the stitching line both outside of the embroidery and on the back, as shown below.

Heat a small container of water and using a paint brush dampened (not dripping) with water, gently melt away the remaining bits of stabilizer. If your fabric water spots easily, trim as closely as possible to the stitching and keep the brush as close to the stitches as possible. Take care to avoid a really wet brush that will promote moisture wicking into the fabric.

This paint brush method will avoid time spent rinsing, drying, and pressing. It’s really quite easy and quick to do and works especially well when the stabilizer is not entrapped in a lot of stitching.

Do not soak out water soluble products if you have used a TESA and it has not fully dissipated. You can speed dissipate TESA with a medium hot dry iron, however, many fiber based washaway products will shrink with heat. Do not use this method if your fabric cannot handle heat.

If your fabric won’t tolerate the paint brush method, another option is to use nylon organza as a stabilizer and instead of using the double sided fabric, appliqué onto the organza, then simply cut or melt away the organza for a two-sided piece.

The finished appliqués fit snuggly into the top and bottom. You may wish to secure with a few stitches here and there or dots of clear-drying glue.

You can also use the templates to simply cut out a piece of felt or ultra suede to use as a lining.

Sachet

You can easily make a small sachet by embroidering 2 lid pieces. For this sample, I completely rinsed out all traces of stabilizer. You’ll notice that when you do this, you have a very soft, drapable piece of lace.

Stitch a simple bag lining in the hoop by hooping two layers of organza or other lightweight tightly woven, semi-sheer fabric (right sides together) and stitching design lgp00207. Trim away excess with pinking shears leaving a scant quarter inch seam allowance. Turn the bag.

If you prefer to conserve fabric, simply use the lid appliqué template as a pattern and add seam allowances

If you are using a powdery potpourri, close up the opening so that it is just large enough for a small funnel. Pour in the scented stuff and finish closing. Partially lace the ribbon through the heart scallops starting from the center top. Insert the scent bag into the lace sachet and finish lacing

Sandwich the sachet between the two lace hearts and lace the hearts together through the scallops. You may wish to add a ribbon loop to hang the sachet. These little sachets would make wonderful wedding gifts for the bride and bridesmaids.

Troubleshooting

These designs have been tested on my own machines with 40 wt. rayon and polyester and 50 wt. cotton embroidery threads, rinsed and rigorously pulled to check for areas that are not well connected. All samples were sewn with 2 layers of Hemingworth Wash-Away or Perfect Solutions Wash-Away Mesh. If you use the designs as is with similar products, you should get results similar to those shown here.

If your results pull apart, have stray exposed stitches, or other registration issues, the two most common reasons are overly tight tensions and/or shifting of the stabilizer due to the forces of sewing. To prevent the latter, I prefer to use duct tape, as illustrated below.

Other Notes:

Feel free to put your own touch of creativity on your heart box. For example, you may choose to make the sides a different color from the lid and base. You may embellish your lid with ribbon roses.

The lid piece is also suitable as an appliqué on other projects or attach to a greeting card.

Appliqué is a very versatile machine embroidery technique. Creating free-standing ornaments and gift tags is fun and easy! With a basic appliqué tag design, you can add your own lettering or merge in other designs to create exactly what you want.

Skill Level

Basic embroidery skills. Novice or beginner skills with customizing software.

These instructions assume that you already know how to work with templates printed on fusible tearaway, a method I use most often for machine embroidered appliqué. If you’ve never used this technique, detailed instructions are included in the Appliqué Basics pdf that is included with most Lindee G Embroidery appliqué collections.

What You’ll Learn

• How to use simple yet creative techniques to expand your embroidery options
• How to make double-sided free-standing designs with appliqués
• How to customize designs with lettering
• How to resequence a design in customizing software to better suit your project

Selecting a Design

This technique works best when the satin cover stitching that finishes the appliqué sews last, as it so happens in the gingerbread designs on Gingery Christmas and is almost the case with this design. However, if we customize the tag with lettering, we’ll need to do a little extra work if we want a nice clean finished back with a satin stitched edge.

For this project, you’ll use the Gift Tag (lg002016) and add some lettering. There are two lettering designs in the collection that work perfectly. One is “Santa” (lg002025) and the second is “Holiday Greetings” (lg002017). Or, you can choose to add in your own lettering.

What You’ll Need

• Small scraps of fabric for front and back of appliqué
• Cutaway stabilizer (medium to heavy weight)
• Washaway stabilizer (fiber, not film)
• Light-weight tearaway stabilizer for printing templates
• Double-stick (pressure sensitive) fusible web for appliqué (Steam-A-Seam II or Pellon Easy Steam II)
• Gift tag design from Gingery Christmas by Lindee G Embroidery with templates
• One of the lettering designs or add your own
• Suitable embroidery threads
• Regular embroidery bobbin thread
• Bobbin of matching thread for the outer gingerbread color (last color in these designs)
• Temporary embroidery spray adhesive (“TESA”)
• Short length of ribbon or cord
• Eyelet cutter
• Customizing/Editing software (I used Embrilliance Enthusiast; it will also work in Embrilliance Essentials.)

Edit the design.

Open the design in customizing.

Merge in another design or create your own lettering.

2. Resequence the design

In this program, objects can be dragged to the order you like or you can right click on a object and choose from the menu

Save the file for your machine.

3. Alternative method.

Simple resequencing such as we just did in software is not difficult to do at your machine and works best with machines that have visual displays.

Load the gift tag into memory and then merge in the lettering design. Sew the gift tag up through color 8, then advance 2 color stops and sew the lettering. Finally, back up 2 color stops and sew the tag’s last 2 colors. Don’t forget to stop sewing after the tag’s last color!

I’ve seen people do amazingly complex resequencing at the machine to avoid using a computer. It requires close attention to keep track of what you’re doing. Me? Give me software!

4. Prepare templates

Print templates onto fusible tearaway and loosely cut around shapes to separate. (See technique in the Appliqué Basics instructions if aren’t familiar with this process.

5. Prepare fabric

Fuse a piece of cutaway to the back of each piece of appliqué fabric using fusible web. Press one template to front of one fabric and one to cutaway of other fabric to make a reversible ornament.

While the cutaway isn’t strictly necessary, it adds extra body and dimension to the design.

Cut out appliqués just to the outside edge of the pattern lines

At some point you’ll need to use the eyelet punch to cut out the hole in the tag. The first 
sample I made my punched eyelet lined up perfectly. The second time it didn’t. Because 
the satin stitching was designed to go over the punched edge, if you punch afterwards, 
you will be cutting thread. You can still make the hole later, but you’ll need to use some 
other method.

A better method is to slow down the machine when it gets to the eyelet. A running stitch 
sews just before the satin and you can manually stop the machine, remove the hoop, and 
punch the hole at that time.

6. Set up to sew

Hoop 2 pieces of washaway stabilizer. Sew the first color of the design (placement outline).

7. Place top appliqué.

Mist back of top piece with TESA. Remove the template from piece and position in the hoop 
within outline

8. Sew the tack down (zigzag) stitch and stop the machine.

Inspect the design to see if any areas extend beyond the tack down and trim off.

9. Sew design up until next to last color

Don’t sew last two colors! These two colors attach the back of the ornament

10. Place back appliqué

Remove the hoop from machine. Spray cutaway side of back appliqué with TESA, remove paper template, position appliqué in place, reset the hoop, replace the bobbin with the matching thread, and sew last color

11. Remove project from hoop and finish.

Trim off excess stabilizer close to the stitching. Remove remaining bits with damp paint 
brush or sponge. It is not necessary to soak out the remaining stabilizer

You’ll notice that the eyelet hole on the back is not satin stitched. This design was 
digitized well before the project was conceived. While I could have redigitized it, the intent 
of the projects is to show how to work with stock designs that are already digitized. Could 
you resequence in editing software? Absolutely! Is it worth the effort? That depends.

Looking for More Tag Style Designs?

Look for designs for badges and borders. These are often digitized as appliqué and work well 
with the techniques described here. Two collections you might look at are:

• Monogram Frames, which include some frames along with some coordinating borders. 
  Look for the designs that include appliqué.
• Badges, a collection of 40 appliqué-style “patch” designs that all work well for combining 
  with other designs.

If you want an eyelet, just extract those parts from the gift tag design in your editing program, 
paste into the badge or border design and resequence as we’ve done in this project.

Begin to look at your designs as elements that can be taken apart and recombined in new and creative ways