24/7: Kelly Slater

On the rare night I'm not watching mob movies and violent series with my husband, I opt for documentaries. I've enjoyed watching various surfing and climbing documentaries for their natural beauty and compelling portraits of human exceptionalism. I prefer the subject to be man against nature/self.

In particular I LOVED the documentary about Bethany Hamilton. Our family visits Kauai yearly and the cinematography and her story are soaring.

I expected something similar with 24/7. First, Kelly must be one of the most beautiful men on the planet and I've been around some cross-fitters but he has some extremely overdeveloped muscles on his upper body that fascinated me and so watching his face, eyes and body are of course beautiful. And the way he connects with the kids, especially the boys, was magical. Everyone wants to touch him and he's very gentle with the attention. I couldn't handle that. As we are the same age, I appreciated him continuing to chase the ring and struggle with retirement and I often thought of the other GOAT Tom Brady and also Russell Wilson who said last week that he wants to play until 48. And I love how these GOATs are always exceptional at other sports. What a beautiful golf game.

I loved how his girlfriend clearly is not attached to anything superficial about him and was very zen and supportive.

However something really really impacted me and still is. I've never wrote a review before and I researched this after I watched the movie. And it was about what wasn't said. There seemed to be such a deep and incredible sadness about Kelly and a desire to stay above a caldron of seemingly unprocessed emotions that lie beneath. Kind of like that concrete slab of reef beneath one of the waves. When he mentioned that his dad was an alcoholic and his childhood I understood - I myself am in recovery. I was looking at the adult child of an alcoholic and the face of trauma I know well.

I didn't need the documentary to go deep, but there was a lack of emotional context for me. He seemed like someone who enjoys spending a lot of time alone but I don't know if that's true or why. I don't think there were any interviews with friends. I just didn't get a sense at all of who he is other than a lover of all things surfing. I suppose he is rightfully very guarded or private. But I do think documentaries owe us more of a window than what was provided.

@yvesdemaria, Yes, he did say that but you fail to provide context.... Please read Kelly's full response:

Here's his response in its entirety, typos included:

"Please say what you feel you need to say to me below. I promise I'll read all the comments and respond if I can. I have been an environmental activist and voice for more campaigns than I can remember. I've worked with Rhinos in South Africa to bring awareness and education to the poaching issues they experience. I've been a vocal opponent to #SharkFinning and find it a despicable practice which has no place in our world. I've worked with the @bosfoundation and raised funds for the protection and awareness around the plight of the Orangutans. I want to become vegan due to the treatment and slaughter of the most defenseless and innocent animals on this planet. I produce clothing from discarded fishing nets to help clean up the mess left behind by fishing industry. My heart is in the right place but now I am being vehemently attacked by the people I have most identified with for the majority of my life. Humans are the biggest threat to life on earth as most creatures know it. But they are also the most capable and able to fix the issues we face. My comments were in reaction to another death of a kid following his passion. I know more about this issues than 99+% of people commenting yet I still don't know enough. I was in no way advocating for a worldwide destruction of any species. In fact, there's a chance many more species of sharks and other sea life could thrive without the over abundance of bull sharks in Reunion Island ravaging the local environment. This is not about me having fun and being selfish for my sport. This is a human and environmental issue. Attacking me will do no good in the conversation that will continue to need to happen for resolution around this topic. I have never personally killed even a single shark in my lifetime and am not fronting an effort to do so. So say what you need to say and let's get on with where this needs to go. Maybe something good will come of it."

The government should kill the sharks.... !!!

Killing wildlife living in its natural environment just so that some guys can have fun and entertainment, seriously ?????!!!!!

f#cking disgusting,