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The ever elegant Helen swaying to "Oh Haseena" in black and red, Meena Kumari draped in yards of silk exuding sensuality in "Sahib, Bibi Aur Ghulam" and oomph girl Zeenat Aman in a transparent sari under a waterfall. The woman behind all these looks is Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya, India's first Oscar winner, who says she knows "India and its clothes inside out".Athaiya, who walked away with an Oscar for "Gandhi", remembers yesteryears' screen siren Helen with fondness as she looks back at the many decades of dressing Indian stars."Helen was nimble-footed and graceful - almost like a bird taking flight. There was a slight hint of bareness, but it never crossed the limit. Although she played the vamp, she never looked a bad vamp," Athaiya told Ians."Invariably, she would wear fitting bodices to show off her...