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- Bruce Brown: The favorite pastime of the barefoot adventurers is the sport of surfing. Paddle out and join the crowd.
- Bruce Brown: Lots of good small waves in Hawaii. One of my favorites: Yokohama Bay. Even small waves in the islands can be kind of nasty.
- Bruce Brown: Let's go surfing at Waikiki Beach. This break is called Queen Surf. It's one of the zippiest of the five breaks at Waikiki proper.
- Bruce Brown: The Windansea surfers were a unique group. On the beach they had their own private spa - for the Saturday bath. Another thing some Windansea surfers like to do is ride their flexy flyers in the storm drain underneath the city. You can hear the sound of them rocketing past through the manhole covers. The storm drain eventually dumped them out in the beach at Windansea.
- Bruce Brown: The dream for most California surfers was to go to the islands to surf. The north shore of the island of Oahu was the ultimate place. One of the best and most consistent breaks was - and is - Sunset Beach.
- Bruce Brown: [describing a hula lesson for tourists] They had the most trouble with the hip action. They got all kinds of weird action going. Some of their hips even stuck out in front. The hula skirts came with the standard 30 inch waist. This one went half way around.
- Bruce Brown: A beach boy was as close as you could get then to being a professional surfer - giving tourists surfing lessons and outrigger canoe rides - and surfing yourself the rest of the time.
- Bruce Brown: Ala Moana is a summer spot that takes a south swell. The same great Hawaiian conditions: 75 degree plus water and 75 degree plus air.
- Bruce Brown: Swallowed by this monster at the Wedge in Newport Beach, California. These waves break in very shallow water, so it's important you land properly, otherwise you can really get bent. Actually, there's no way to land properly. - like diving off a freeway overpass and trying to land properly. You swim for the wave for about five seconds, you're airborne for three seconds, and you're driven into the bottom for 33 seconds. Why bodysurfers risk their limbs to ride the Wedge is still a mystery.
- Bruce Brown: Back on Oahu, a surfer cooling off with some guava juice and dry ice mixed. It's not a good idea to swallow the dry ice.
- Bruce Brown: Jack is now a successful restauranter. He is the first guy I ever knew who collected unemployment. He listed his occupation as matador and diamond cutter. They never did find him a job.
- Bruce Brown: The kooks surfed the Huntington Beach flats while the heroes rode the pier. Shooting the pier wasn't as hard as it looked, but no one was going to tell the kooks that.
- Bruce Brown: Shooting the pier was a good way to impress the girls on the pier if there were any watching. Which there was - about once a month.
- Bruce Brown: One surfer per wave is the safest approach. Two surfers can be fairly dangerous. Three surfers is really dangerous. And four surfers is out of the question. You don't even know who's board you got hit by.
- Bruce Brown: To warm up after surfing in the winter, we used to light old rubber tires on fire. On a cold winter day, we would light 10 or 15 of them. It would warm you up from 50 feet and leave a plume of smoke you could see from Malibu. No one ever complained. Everyone thought it was neat. Kids warming up. Can you imagine doing that today? They'd put you in San Quentin!
- Bruce Brown: Small wave riding has changed drastically over the years, but big wave riding hasn't. It's still basically a matter of survival.
- Bruce Brown: Lincoln had one of the surf clubs along the coast. Here's the honorary president: Lightenin' Brown. He wasn't dealing with a completely full deck. But, what president is?
- Bruce Brown: Waimea Bay was closing out. Waves straight across the bay, breaking in the middle of the bay, in 60 feet of water. These giant waves make so much noise you can hear them miles away. It sounds like thunder. There's so much spray in the air from these waves, that you drive around the North Shore with your windshield wipers on - just like it was raining.