- Narrator: There's something in surfing, we have hanging ten and hanging five. This is called hanging five, because you hang your five toes over the nose of the board. It's kind of like standing on the front bumper of a big bus watching the white line go by. It's kind of exciting.
- Narrator: I think a lot of the impression people have gotten about surfers that really isn't true is from Hollywood movies which are based, like most Hollywood movies, on - not on fact but on fabrication.
- Narrator: There's many styles in surfing. Two basic styles. A smooth, more functional technique that's used on big waves, basically, and also by some surfers on small waves. And then there's what we call hot dogging, which is things like spinners and head dips in small waves, usually closer to the shore.
- Narrator: You almost always find Phil in the perfect spot anyway he's riding which is right back in what we call the curl - which is the pocket between the white water and the green part of the wave.
- Narrator: If the surf gets really big, it's hard to find a place to ride, because you have to find a very deep channel that you can paddle out to get to the surf to ride.
- Narrator: The biggest danger getting wiped out in a big wave is getting hit by your board or someone else's board. It can really do a lot of damage when it's thrown with the force of one of these waves. If he hangs on to his board and gets sucked in what we call 'over the falls' with it and that's really a bad way to get wiped out.
- Narrator: This is the sport of surfing. One of the fastest growing sports in the world today. A unique group of people participate, they even have their own language. For example, the white water of the wave is called the soup. The breaking part of the wave is called the curl. The main idea of surfing is you stay just ahead of the soup - in the curl. Most surfers ride with their left foot forward. A few surfers ride with right foot forward, like this. They're called goofy footers. This style of surfing is called hot dogging. It means you try and do as many unusual and exciting stunts on a wave as you can. Things like: hanging five, hanging ten, head dips, and spinners - or almost anything you want to invent. This is one way to get out of a wave. It's called a pull out. There are variations of pull outs, like bail outs. If the nose of your board goes under, it's called pearling. This leads to the inevitable wipe out, which is also called: getting annihilated, taking gas, lunched, clobbered, bombed, or falling off. A big wave is called a heavy. There are certain subtle techniques acquired after years of riding the heavies, like: staying alive.
- Narrator: Everybody surf these days. Men and women. Fathers and sons. In fact, about the only thing all surfers have in common, is that they all - eventually - get wet. This makes them automatically members of: the wet set.
- Narrator: The ultimate dream of most members of the wet set is to go to Hawaii. In Hawaii you have the perfect conditions for surfing. The water's warm every day. You usually get up at dawn to see how the surf is. You can ride waves with Diamond Head on your right and a beautiful little curl to your left. Or, you can travel around to the North Shore of the island of Oahu and tackle some of the really big waves that boom through during the wintertime. Just paddling out is an unforgettable experience. Turning around to take off on one of these waves takes a lot of courage.
- Narrator: Many of the terms used in skateboarding came originally from surfing. Things like: walking the board, spinners, head dips, switching stance, hanging five, hanging ten, hanging eleven.
- Narrator: There's a great similarity between the sport of skateboarding and the sport of surfing. In fact, surfers are the ones who pioneered the modern skateboard. They designed them so they'd have something to practice on when they weren't in the water.
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