FIG TREE CARE

Fig trees are easy to grow! The fruit can be eaten fresh or used for cooking
and baking. Fig trees do well in containers and in almost all types of soil.
They can be kept as small as 6 with regular pruning.
Planting
Dig a hole deeper and wider than necessary for the root system. Amend with
planting mix if soil is very heavy and dense. Inspect the roots and remove any
broken or dried roots. Place the tree upright at the proper depth. Fig trees
survive better if set 2 to 4 inches deeper than they were grown in the nursery.
Crumble the soil around the roots, and pack it down several times during the
filling operation to avoid air pockets. After planting, water the tree to settle
the soil firmly around the roots. Do not apply fertilizer at planting
time.
When transplanting (if tree has not been recently pruned) head back to
develop lateral branches and reduce stress. Try to keep the root ball intact to
minimize root disturbance. If the root system is damaged during
transplanting, water uptake may be reduced.
Caution:
Fig trees planted at the beginning of the dormant season often develop root
systems before leafing out in the spring. This can be advantageous; however,
young trees are more susceptible to cold injury. In areas where cold damage
may occur, it is often advisable to delay transplanting until just before
dormancy is broken in late winter.
Watering
Give special attention to soil moisture management in fig culture. Most fig
tree roots are close to the soil surface and can easily dry out. For these
reasons, apply water to the trees as drying develops. Slight leaf wilting in the
afternoon is an indication of water stress. If that is observed, water more
frequently during hot weather. Mulching helps maintain uniform soil
moisture and reduces weed competition.

Do not overwater in areas of heavy soil with poor drainage. This forces
oxygen out of the soil and can cause injury to the tree. Good water
management, including regular irrigation and mulching, helps maintain tree
health and vigor and reduces fruit drop.
Pruning
Figs do not require regular pruning once established. Prune figs trees
annually during the first three growing seasons in order to establish desired
shape. In subsequent growing seasons prune only to stimulate new growth or
to control size. Figs can bear fruit in the fall on the previous years growth,
so heavy pruning will result in lighter crops the following season. It is best to
prune immediately after the main crop is harvested in early fall. Heavily
pruned fig trees can be susceptible to sun burn, so it is a good idea to
whitewash trees after heavy summer pruning with interior white latex paint,
diluted 50-50 with water. Remove all weak, diseased or dead limbs each
dormant season.
Where winters are mild, train fig trees to a single trunk, open vase-type tree.
In areas where freezes occasionally kill the upper part of the tree a multitrunk system with a bush shape may be a more advantageous pruning
method. Figs can be easily trained as espaliers.
Fertilizing
Generally, fig trees do not require regular fertilizing. Excessive applications
of nitrogen can have a negative effect on fruit quality. The one exception is
for figs grown in containers, which should be fed three or four times a year
with a balanced fruit tree fertilizer.
Cold Weather Protection
Factors influencing a fig trees susceptibility to cold injury are related to the
trees entrance into dormancy. A mature tree which has lost all of its leaves
and becomes totally dormant can withstand much cooler temperatures than a
rapidly growing tree at the time of first frost. Reduce watering in the fall of
the year to reduce growth and encourage the onset of dormancy. A fully
dormant fig tree can withstand temperatures as low as 10 degrees F.
In areas where temperatures drop into the teens or twenties, additional cold
protection is important for young trees. Placing mulch over the base of the
tree in winter can protect the crown from killing frosts. Planting along the
south side of a building can also help reduce freeze damage in cold areas. Also
Christmas lights and polyester frost blankets can be used when the tree is
young.

When trees or limbs freeze, give the tree ample time to grow before removing
the frozen limbs. Prune frost damaged branches in the spring once the threat
of heavy frost has passed.
Harvesting
In areas without heavy spring frosts, figs can bear two crops per year. The
first crop, known as the breba crop, is produced in the spring on the previous
years growth. The second, main crop is produced in the fall on that years
growth. Thinning heavy crops will increases fruit size.
For best quality, allow figs to ripen on the tree, and pick as they ripen. Ripe
fruit left on the tree will be vulnerable to dried fruit beetle predation and
spoilage. On-the-tree spoilage or souring is caused by microorganisms in the
fully ripe fruit. These organisms are usually carried into the open eye of the
fig by insects, particularly the dried fruit beetle. Frequent harvest and the
removal of overripe, spoiled figs can greatly reduce spoilage problems.
Use gloves and long sleeves when harvesting figs to prevent skin irritation
from the fig latex which is exposed where the fruit is removed from the tree.
FIG VARIETY INFORMATION
CONADRIA FIG: Light greenish-yellow skin, pink flesh. Not as sweet as
Kadota, but resists spoilage. Fresh/dried. Very vigorous, long-lived tree.
Heavy crops, coast or inland. 100 hours. Self-fruitful
BLACK JACK FIG: Large, purplish-brown figs with sweet, juicy,
strawberry-red flesh. Harvest August to October in Central California.
Naturally small (semi-dwarf) tree. 100 hours. Self-fruitful.
BLACK MISSION FIG: The favorite. Purplish-black skin, strawberrycolored flesh, rich flavor. Heavy bearing, long-lived, large tree. Coast or
inland. Fresh/dry/can. 100 hours. Self-fruitful.
IMPROVED BROWN TURKEY FIG: Large, brown skin, pink flesh.
Sweet, rich flavor, used fresh. Widely adapted - coast or inland climate. Small
tree, prune to any shape. 100 hours. Self-fruitful.
KADOTA FIG: Large, light greenish-yellow 'white' skin, amber flesh. Longlived, vigorous. Prune to any shape. Very sweet fruit needs hot weather to
ripen. Fresh/dry/can. 100 hours. Self-fruitful.
OSBORNE PROLIFIC FIG: Large fruit with very attractive purplishbrown skin, amber pulp. Especially pleasing flavor. Long-time favorite in cool

coastal areas, excellent inland as well. Prune to any shape. 100 hours. Selffruitful.
PETERS HONEY: Beautiful, shiny, greenish yellow fruit when ripe. Very
sweet, dark, amber flesh. High quality. Superb for eating fresh . Warm
location with a southern exposure is required for ripening fruit in maritime
Northwest. Originated in Sicily. Good cold tolerance. Zones 6-10.
TEXAS BLUE GIANT FIG: Extra large fig with purple skin and amber
flesh, very sweet, ever-bearing habit. Zones 6-10.
PANACHE TIGER: Especially fine flavor! Small to medium sized fruit,
green in color with yellow "tiger" stripes. Strawbery pulp is blood-red in color.
100 hours. Self-fruitful.
WHITE GENOA FIG: Old variety, a favorite in cool coastal areas--also
excellent inland. Greenish -yellow skin, amber flesh, distinctive flavor. Prune
to any shape. 100 hours. Self-fruitful.
VIOLETTE DE BORDEAUX: Small to medium size purple-black fruit
with a very deep red strawberry pulp, a distinctive sweet rich flavor.
Excellent fresh or dried. Possible second early season crop, hardy. Good for
container culture or small spaces. Zones 5-10.