Online No-Limit Texas Holdem Poker for Beginners

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Online No-Limit Texas Holdem Poker

for Beginners

______________________________________________________________________________________
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August OMeara - All Rights Reserved

Online No-Limit Texas Holdem Poker for Beginners

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Table of Contents

Introduction ...........................................................................................................4
This Book, Defined .....................................................................................................6
What You Will Learn ..................................................................................................7

Limit vs. No-Limit............................................................................................8

Definitions............................................................................................................10
Playing Online ...................................................................................................13
Sit n Go (SNG) with Play Money .............................................................................14

No-Limit Holdem ..........................................................................................16

The Basics.................................................................................................................16

Starting Hands ...................................................................................................17

Getting Started with a Good Hand .............................................................................17
Limping-in Bad Hands ..............................................................................................21
Pros and Cons............................................................................................................22

Playing Good Hands......................................................................................24

How Much to Bet? ....................................................................................................24
Playing Group 1 Hands..............................................................................................25
Playing Low Pairs (and the slick) All-in ....................................................................32

Post-Flop Hand Odds....................................................................................36

Calculating Outs........................................................................................................36
Outs and Odds Chart .................................................................................................37
Odds Scenarios Chart ................................................................................................38
Computing Outs Percentages the Easy Way! .............................................................41

Playing in Position ..........................................................................................42

Tight in front, loose in back .......................................................................................43
Playing on the Button ................................................................................................45
Two for the Price of One ...........................................................................................46

The Pot-Committed Falacy..................................................................48

Lay Down a Loser .....................................................................................................51

Playing the Blinds ...........................................................................................53

Bluffing ..................................................................................................................55
A Bluffing Example: .................................................................................................55

BAD BEATS ......................................................................................................58

How to Avoid Bad Beats ...........................................................................................59

END GAME .......................................................................................................61

Steal the Blinds! ........................................................................................................61
END GAME Phase 2.................................................................................................64
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ACTING!: ............................................................................................................67
RULE #2: DONT BE 4th ..........................................................................................70

BONUS:.................................................................................................................73
What I Have Learned from the Super System ........................73
Bluffing, Doyles Way ..............................................................................................75
Complete Miss ..........................................................................................................75
Betting, and the Super System................................................................................77
My Conclusions of the Super System .....................................................................81

Conclusion ...........................................................................................................82
Basic Rules to Playing Winning Holdem..................................................................83

Bibliography .......................................................................................................85

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Introduction
If you are reading this, I am guessing youve seen the WSOP on ESPN and have
said to yourself, That looks like fun and now are ready to try your hand at a bit of
Poker. This is a very common thought as, more and more, Poker has made it into our
lives.
If Hollywood had held off, and released the movie Rounders, starring Matt
Damon and Ed Norton today; it would be a blockbuster. Poker has taken over sports
television that used to be reserved for lesser-known sports like skeet, and inline hockey.
Poker isnt just for the bad time slots anymore. The WSOP is shown in prime time on
ESPN. This is time ESPN used to use for Major League Baseball.
The question that I have heard asked is, Why is poker so popular now? It is
true. The WSOP has been held for 30+ years. ESPN has been around for 25 years, yet,
all of a sudden, there is poker on all the time.
The reason is the Internet. Folks no longer have to travel to a card club, or a
casino, or Vegas or wherever to get a game of poker. Also, they dont have to schedule
their poker play around their friends schedules. With the Internet, anyone with a few
bucks can head to an online poker room and play with complete strangers any time of the
day or night. At PartyPoker.com, it is rare to see the number of people on the site less
than 15,000 at any given time. And that is just one site.
Another reason poker is so popular now is the hole card camera that they use on
TV. The camera is used to see what cards the best players in the world are holding, and
how they play them. This is intriguing, and educational. You can learn the game by
watching. Television gives us that education.
A third reason for Pokers explosion in popularity is the game itself. No-limit
Texas Holdem is what is advertised and played on TV in the WSOP and the WPT. This
is THE game. This game is a different animal altogether. It is not 5-card or 7-card stud.
It is definitely not Omaha.
Everyone only gets two cards. Then they all use the 5 community cards to see
who has the best hand. With everyone holding so few cards in secret, there is a very
FINITE amount of hands that can be made with the community cards. Hands that are any
good that is. More importantly, possible hands that can beat your hand.
The game itself is genius. It is simple. It is easy enough to know if you have the
best hand possible. It is also a game that can be played with a lot of skill, and a bit of
luck.
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The final reason for pokers current popularity is that the general masses finally
see the game as a skill game. A sport. It isnt exactly gambling. Most folks look at
playing cards, playing poker, as gambling. Or they used to. With all the media attention
devoted to No-Limit Texas Holdem, the general public is finally figuring out that this is
a game of skill, not luck. If you get better at your skills, you will be a better player. You
can work to hone your skills, to think correctly throughout a game.
I hate to mention Rounders again, but quoting Matt Damon, Why does this still
seem like gambling to you? I mean, why do you think the same five guys make it to the
final table of the World Series of Poker EVERY SINGLE YEAR? What, are they the
luckiest guys in Las Vegas? It's a skill game, Jo. While that isnt exactly true anymore,
as the number of folks entering that tournament has more than tripled in the last year,
increasing the odds of getting unlucky, it still reinforces the point about Holdem being a
skill game.
Next in importance is the stage that the media shows us. It only shows us
tournaments. We all know that gambling is morally wrong. Or you should know.
That is, if you ever went to church, you heathen. (smirk) Television doesnt show us the
bad side of the gambling lifestyle. The guy that goes down to the card club with a cap of
$100, loses a lot, hits the cash machine twice, and leaves down $400. This is the morally
wrong side to poker, and gambling in general.
What the media shows us now is tournament poker. Specifically Holdem. There
is a set buy-in. The chips arent real money, they are just chips. If you lose all your
chips, you are out. Game over. If you win all the chips, you are the winner and collect
the top prize. There is no going to the cash machine and trying to win it back. The
game that is presented on television is in a buy-in format, and when you are out, you are
out.
Granted, the buy-in for the WSOP is $10,000, but there are many ways around
paying that. PokerStars.com hosts many satellite tournaments to win your way into the
WSOP. As you probably know, PokerStars.com put 316 qualifiers into the WSOP in
2004. The winners in 2003 & 2004, Chris Moneymaker and Craig Raymer, both
qualified through PokerStars.com. Neither of them paid anywhere CLOSE to $10,000 to
win their millions.
Your dreams can come true playing poker. And you can have fun doing it.
Enough blather already, get to the information, I hear from the back of the
class. Okay. Its time to get down to business.

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This Book, Defined

I am writing this as a tool for beginner Texas Holdem players. Specifically,
online. Specifically, No-Limit. Specifically, low buy-in. Playing low buy-in sit and
go(SNG) games is the BEST way to learn no-limit Texas Holdem.
Why? It is real money. It is exactly what they play on TV. I am going to show
you how to play the game correctly. This is the way I have learned to play through
trial-and-error, thousands of hands, and most importantly, a LOT of reading in books and
on the Internet.
There are a few good books dedicated to No-Limit Texas Holdem. Most
significantly, Doyle Brunsons Super System. At the end of this book, I give you a
short synopsis of Super System. I also tell you exactly how reading Super System
has added to my game. MUCH of what I teach in this book was first put down on paper
in Super System.
There are TOMES devoted to Limit Holdem and how to play that. . I am not
going to go over books that deal with Limit Holdem. Its been covered.
I feel there is a void that needs to be filled to teach beginners of the game how to
maximize their chances of playing winning No-Limit Holdem. I am hoping this is that
guide. The strategies I reveal here can, and are, used at all levels of No-Limit Texas
Holdem. I put the word strategies in quotes, as this is the keyword used in all the
Holdem help pages and books I have seen and read.
What I am going to tell you isnt really a strategy, its the correct way to play.
Its the unwritten, Rules of the Game, if you will. These rules are what this book is all
about. These rules are the correct way to play, to give you the best odds of winning.

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What You Will Learn

The book will progress as follows:
Define the differences between No-Limit and Limit Holdem for the
beginning player
Getting started with your online experience
Commonly used Poker Definitions
How to play with the odds in your favor.
Specific hands, and how to play them.
Odds Chart, and a couple of Starting Hands Charts.
Playing in Position
Bluffing
Bad Beats
End Game
The most important lessons I will go through are playing in position, and the end
game.
When you are finished with this book you WILL be a better player. For the
absolute beginner, it will be like the blind finally being able to see. Thats how I felt
when I learned a few of the tricks of the trade. You will too. So, if youve thrown away
some cash already online, and decided that you are just no good at the game, read on.
Enlightenment starts now.

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Limit vs. No-Limit

The only things that Limit and No-Limit Holdem have in common are the
number of cards and how they are dealt. Thats it. After that, the differences are night
and day.
There have been many books written about the ins and outs of limit Holdem.
Limit is the kind of game you see when you go to your local card club or casino.
The 2/4, 3/6, 10/20 games. Limit Holdem is a game of playing good hands, and
hopefully preying on fish. You really need to know your odds tables, your pot odds,
and have a good poker face. Limit Holdem is great for beginners and is often referred
to as No Foldem Holdem.
You do not see this version of Holdem on TV. In case you didnt know, at most
card clubs, the LEAST expensive table you may be able to get on is the 2/4 table. What
that means is the blinds are $1, $2, the pre-flop and flop bets are $2, and the turn and
river bets are $4. Each betting round can only be raised a maximum of 4 times.
It can get expensive, especially for a beginner who is playing incorrectly. On the
other side of things, you can almost always see all the cards as there is really no way for
the other guy to force you out. That is if it's down to two of you. He raises $2 on the flop.
You call. Turn card. He raises $4. You call. He raises $4 on the river. You call. There
is really no way to bluff a guy out since you cant keep raising.
Or maybe you already made your hand on the flop, want to collect the pot, and
dont want to see any more cards. Yet the guy you are up against keeps calling, and can
eventually make a better hand. When your hand is made, you dont want to see any more
cards.
In Limit, you cant really deter someone from seeing all the cards. This is also
why, in Limit, you NEED to play the best hands. AA, KK, QQ, or AK. Suited
preferably.
In No-Limit, you CAN deter someone from seeing more cards. You CAN throw
money at the pot to do so. In Limit, oftentimes, there is only one way to win. Have the
best hand. In No-Limit, there are 2 ways to win every hand. Have the best hand, OR
make everyone else fold.
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This is done through raising. And raising again. Phil Hellmuth once called NoLimit Holdem, Playing chess with a sledgehammer. Thats about right.
As I said, there are TONS of books that cover Limit Holdem. It is said it is best
for beginners, because you can learn the ins and outs of the game without losing a lot
of money. This is a farce, because to the beginner, an Ace-8 off-suit hand looks pretty
good. They have an ace! Without some luck, they arent going to win with that hand.
At a $2/$4 table, that could cost the beginner upwards of $60 if he decided the
pair of aces he flopped was the best hand out there and decided to raise each bet to the
cap. The beginner is thinking, Its a wonder this other dumbass keeps raising my raises.
Boy is he going to be surprised when we turn these over and I have a pair of them. I
cant wait to see the look on his face.
What Joe Beginner doesnt realize, is most good Limit players wont even play
a hand unless they have AA, KK, AK, QQ, AQ, AJ, and even A10. What Joe Beginner is
up against is someone else that owns an ace, AND the kicker. Joe might get lucky, and
catch the 8 and have 2-pair. Or the board could fill up, and there will be a split, but more
often than not, he is drawing dead.
In Limit Holdem, it really comes down to how good your starting hands are.
Then after that, its determining pot odds against hand odds to see whether you should
stay in, or get out. You really cant bluff, and its VERY tough to steal pots.
Most importantly, they dont play it on TV.
No-Limit on ESPN is what got you interested in Poker, and that is why you are
reading this. I hope. No foldem Holdem is a good game. At the higher blinds, it is
just as competitive, and that is where most poker professionals make their money.
Playing 10/20 or 20/40 is a good way to make money to live off of if you know
what you are doing. You absolutely HAVE to play good starting hands if you are
throwing in a 20-spot, or more, each bet. You do, because at that level, you KNOW the
other guy is playing a good starting hand. There arent going to be a lot of guys at the
table of a 10/20 game that will play 9 7 os, without being in the big blind.
As I said, there are many books about the subject of limit Holdem. All the big
players, Brunson, Sklansky etc. have them out for your reading pleasure. If you are a
beginner, ANYTHING you read on the subject of poker will make you a better player.
Reading is great, but playing is kind of like on the job training. And its a lot more fun.

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Definitions
I am going to define some terms that I will be using throughout the rest of the
book. These definitions will make reading about, and learning poker, a LOT easier. Im
sure you know most of the terms, but if you dont, take the time to read through them, or
just refer back to them later if you dont understand something I say later on in the book.
FLOP: The three community cards that are turned over after the initial round of
betting.
TURN: The 4th community card. Also known as Fourth Street.
RIVER: The 5th and last community card. Also known as Fifth Street.
SUITED: Two or more cards of the same suit, i.e. Clubs, Spades, Hearts,
Diamonds. In poker literature, suited is noted with a small s. As in, Ace-King suited
would be, A Ks.
OS: The abbreviation for off-suit. Also can be abbreviated o. As in A9os, or
A7o.
CONNECTOR: Two cards that are within 4 cards of each other so as to possibly
make a straight. AK, JT, A2 are all connectors, as are Q8, 62, etc. The connectors that
are touching each other, i.e., JT, 78, are better to have as they can pick up the straight
on the low, and high side. There are no gaps between them.
SUITED CONNECTORS: Same as a connector, only suited also. 87s for
example. These are powerful cards as you have the straight, the flush, and the straight
flush in play, pre-flop. These cards usually give you a lot of outs.
OUTS: The number of cards that are theoretically left in the deck to complete
your hand, or give you the nuts. Outs coincide with Hand Odds to give you your
percentage chance of drawing the, hopefully, winning card.
THE NUTS: A Poker term for the best hand possible in a given hand. You are
always hoping to get The Nuts. You cant lose if you have the Nut Hand. Unless you
fold. Used as an adjective in terms such as Nut Flush, Nut Straight, and Nut Trips.
HAND ODDS: The odds of getting the card that completes your hand. This is a
theoretical number at best, but it gives you something to go by, to see if the pot is worth it
to try drawing the card you need.
AA: Notation for aces as your starting hand. Also known as Pocket Rockets or
Bullets. The best starting hand in Holdem.
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AK: Ace-King or Ace-King suited (AK s). Nickname is The Big Slick.
FULL BOAT or BOAT: A full house.
POT ODDS: The % worth you are getting for your bet. If it only costs you $10
to possibly win $100, you are getting 10-1 Pot Odds. This term is more used in Limit
Hold em than No-Limit.
SIT N GO (SNG): A 1-table game where everyone gets the same amount of
chips for a set buy-in. The game is played in tournament format with increasing blinds
every 10 hands. 10 to a table at PartyPoker, 9 at PokerStars. Top 3 spots win money.
RING GAME: A table where the same folks play the same poker for the same
blinds all the time. People can get up and leave at any time, and new folks can come in.
You can also re-buy in if you are out of money. This is the kind of game most often
played at card clubs.
MULTI-TABLE: A poker tournament that includes more than one table. As
people are eliminated, everyone moves down to one, final table.
SATELLITE: A tournament, often a qualifier, held online to get into a bigger
tournament that is held LIVE in a casino. For online play, any tournament can be
considered a satellite tournament, as no one is actually playing together. Each satellite
is someone playing from the comfort of his/her home.
HOME GAME: A game of poker played between you and your friends. Often
there is a lot of bluffing; everyone stays in to see every card, and lower stakes. Not
exactly real poker.
POSITION: The spot on the table where you are sitting in relation to the dealer
button. To the left of the button are the small blind and big blind. The first 4 or 5 spots
are said to be in early position. The person on the button is in the best position,
because he gets to see how everyone else has bet when it finally comes to his turn. On
the button and two to the right are said to be in late position. All other spots, in a 9 or
10 person ring, are said to be middle position. Playing In Position is the single-most
important poker skill that beginners lack, or understand. Early position is bad, late
position is good.
UNDER THE GUN (UTG): The first position after the big blind. It is the first
position to bet before the flop and the 3rd to bet after the flop. Designated position #3 in
this book.
POT COMMITTED: If you have put a lot of chips into a pot, you are said to be
pot committed. Pot committed is a fallacy, and should not be used as an excuse.
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TILT/ TILTED: A player is said to be on tilt after they start betting crazy.
Usually after having taken a bad beat. You need to learn to control your emotions and
avoid going on tilt.
BAD BEAT: A bad beat is when you lose a hand you were leading and the other
guy catches a card against all odds. Taking bad beats often leads to elimination, or more
often, playing on tilt.

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Playing Online
So here it is. I am finally going to get to it. Online Poker playing is by far the
easiest way to play. No schedules to coordinate. You dont have to get dressed. You
dont need to smell good, or hope that the guy next to you doesnt, literally, stink when
you finally sit down at the casino tables.
Playing poker online is a great hobby. Granted, there are inherent risks, such as
losing all your money to better players. But once you finally get it and play well, you
always expect to win when you sit down.
Lets get started.
There are two sites that I currently recommend. PartyPoker.com and
PokerStars.com. Both of these establishments, from what Ive seen, run fair, easy to use
sites. I primarily play at PartyPoker, and all my references will be for that site.
I would love to play at PokerStars.com though. If you get some luck, and play
well, they have MANY satellite tournaments for WSOP qualifying. As said earlier, 316
players of the 2600+ at the WSOP qualified through PokerStars.com. The past 2 WSOP
winners play, and qualified, at PokerStars.com.
If you are looking for a relatively inexpensive way to maybe qualify for the
WSOP, PokerStars is the site you should check out.
They also have $.01/.02 (one cent/two cent) games of limit Holdem. Its like
playing for play money, only there is a bit of cash on the line, so its a bit more realistic.
The stats they keep are awesome too. It is a great site, and fast becoming the #1 site for
poker.
Which leads me to PartyPoker.com.
PartyPoker IS the #1 site online for Poker. Any and ALL poker. 24/7/365 you
can find a game, especially at the lower buy-ins. This site is simple on the eyes, and
runs, pretty much, glitch-free.
There are only a couple of things I dislike about PartyPoker. I dislike that their
lowest end sit n go (SNG) game is $5+1, and their lowest limit game is $.50/$1. At
PokerStars, you can literally play for pennies while you learn. Plus, PokerStars SNG
games are all right in line. The $5 is $5+.50, the ten-dollar is $10+1. PartyPoker is
$10+1, and the five-dollar game is $5+1. What that means is that you are giving $1 to
the house in the five and the ten-dollar SNGs at PartyPoker, whereas PokerStars only
takes 10%. Plus PokerStars only has 9 people at a table, whereas PartyPoker has 10.
One less guy to knock out makes a BIG difference. That ends what I dislike about
PartyPoker.
13

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As you can see, it isnt much.

Sit n Go (SNG) with Play Money

Since SO many beginners start at PartyPoker, it is a great place to make money.
You know that at the lower levels, you have a fighting chance, even if you picked
up the game yesterday. Odds are, 2 or 3 others at your table did too. I highly recommend
PartyPoker as your first destination.
The next thing you do when you get there is hit the PLAY MONEY area. Go to
their tournaments, and play a whole bunch of No-Limit SNGs. The SNG I will be
referring to most often is a No-Limit, one table, everybody pays the same buy-in and gets
the same amount of chips, tournament. The SNG ends when one guy has all the chips.
Play a LOT of games here. Not just to get used to the interface, and where the
buttons are, and what they do, but also to work on the gameplay you will learn through
this book. Work on your game. Work on your techniques. Pretend that you care.
Pretend that it is real money.
I say this because once you play with real money; you wont be able to go back to
the play money. Not because its so fun to play with real money. Its because the
gameplay becomes more real and predictable the higher up you go. The more money
the folks at the table pay in, the more they care about the outcome. You will notice as
you switch games, up and down the ladder, how different it is at each level.
Dont take too much stock in the play money games. If you know what you are
doing though, you should flat-out win most of them. Even with the erratic betting you
will see. You will take more bad beats at the play money area than anywhere else; so
dont let it make you gun-shy.
Fortunately for the play money games, the end game is the same regardless of
how much money you paid, or didnt, up front. People still want to win the game when it
gets down to 3 or 4 whether its at $100+10 or 0+0. Thankfully, this will give you a LOT
of practice that is universal to SNG games. I will guess that you wont be able to get
away with stealing the blinds, uncontested, for as long in the $100+10 games as you do in
the $5+1.
In the play money SNG games, some asshole is going to go all-in on the first hand
every time. You are welcome to chase him and take his chips if you have AA, KK, AKs
or QQ. These are the only hands I would suggest going in with, as there will be other
callers also. If you dont have any of these, dont even play the first hand. Fold it away,
and watch to see who has the large stack when its all sorted out.
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The only thing good about this is you get to practice against a larger stack. With
his 1600-2400 against your 800, you should still be good enough to take him by the end
of the game. Maybe sooner.
If folks think the players in the $5+1 games are bad, imagine how bad the players
are playing for free? If they were any good, theyd try to win money.
Spend a few hours to days down in the play money SNG area. Once you are
winning, or finishing top 3 just about every time, except when you take a bad beat, then
you are ready to move up and make some money.
That is how I advise cutting your teeth. Read the rest of this book, and then hit
the play money area. If you win your first 3 or 4 SNGs, you know its time to move up.
The competition gets a lot stiffer, and the players a lot tighter, the more you move
up.
A friend of mine got sick of playing the lower buy-in games because the play was
still so erratic. So, he tried out, just for fun, the $200+20 table. Everything he did on that
table made sense. He would raise to get someone out of the pot, and they would fold.
Hed represent something, and folks at the $200 would respect that, and bow out to fight
again later.
At the lower levels, SOMEONE will almost always call you to keep you
honest. Playing the $200 SNGs, he won 3 times that first day and was up over 2 grand.
I am not saying to go straight to the big money because its an easier game. Its a
more predictable game. At the $5 level, you still have a lot of fish, and they will catch
crappy hands against you. There are a lot of rules to live by at the lower levels that you
dont need to apply at the higher levels.
Its a different game.
But, hey, its only a $6 entry fee, and an hour later, you could have $25 to show
for it. Thats $19 per hour. If you could do it every time, youd have yourself a nice
little side job.

15

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No-Limit Holdem
The Basics
Well, youve read this far and havent learned a thing about strategy, technique,
what a flop is, etc. etc. etc. Now it is time to impart some knowledge. I am going to
assume that you know how to play. If not, I will touch on it briefly.
Actually, you should just head to the Play Money area mentioned above and learn
the game. Or turn on ESPN or ESPN2 and look for WSOP re-runs. For those that still
dont know, here is a very simple way of explaining Hold em.
There are up to 10 people at a table. The dealer button goes around the table in
a clockwise motion. The player sitting to the left of the player with the button is in the
small blind, and the player to the left of him is in the big blind. The small blind, and the
big blind pay in. The small blind is as much as the big blind.
Everyone is then dealt 2 cards face down. There is a round of betting starting with
the player under the gun, or, to the left of the big blind. Once all bets are made and
called, three cards are dealt face up on the table. This is the flop. All the cards face-up
are community cards and can be used by all players.
Another round of betting. A fourth card is then turned up. This is the turn card.
Or 4 street. Another round of betting. Then the 5th and final card. This is the river
card, as in; your hopes just went down the river. Also known as 5th street. Another round
of betting.
th

If there are any folks left with cards, they turn them over to see who won. Simple
game.

16

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Starting Hands
Getting Started with a Good Hand
There are good hands, and there are bad hands. There are hands that play well
with others, and hands that want to play alone. In almost all the Limit Holdem books,
the experts say to only start with the top hands. That being AA, KK, QQ, AKs, TT,
AQs, AJs. If you only play these top hands, and play them correctly, you will take down
more pots, and win more often.
Unfortunately, in an SNG game, or tournament hold em, the blinds go up every
15 minutes, or every 10 hands in SNG games. If you are waiting and waiting for those
BEST hands, eventually, the blinds will dig into you. What you need to recognize, as a
good player, is what a good hand looks like. Or, more importantly, how much it is worth.
There has been a ton of research done on starting hands. Sklansky and Malmuth
put out hand rankings and how to play them in the 1980s. Since the advent of advanced
computing, a college kid for his thesis redid the rankings and offers EXCELLENT
explanations as to why and what to play.
The website is: http://www-2.cs.cmu.edu/People/mummert/poker/ There is
enough information there to make your head swim. Here are the rankings of the hands
that he came up with:
Group 1: Hands 1-5:
AA, KK, QQ, JJ, AKs
Group 2: Hands 6-10: TT, AQ s, AJ s, AK, KQ s
Group 3: Hands 11-16: AT s, KJ s, AQ, 99, QJ s, KT s
Group 4: Hands 17-24: 88, QT s, A9s, AJ, JT s, KQ, A8s, AT
Group 5: Hands 25-42: K9s, A7s, KJ, A5s, Q9s, T9s, 77, J9s, A6s, QJ,
A4s, KT, QT, A3s, K8s, JT, A2s, Q8s
Group 6: Hands 43-51: T8s, K7s, 98s, 66, J8s, A9, K6s, K5s, A8
Group 7: Hands 52-68: 87s, 97s, K4s, Q7s, T7s, K9, J7s, T9, 55, Q6s,
Q9, K3s, J9, A7, Q5s, A5, K2s
Group 8: Hands 69-84: Q4s, A6, T6s, J6s, A4, J5s, K8, Q3, 44, T8, A3,
J8, Q8, K7, A2, K6
# of hands
Hands 1-24
Hands 1-42
Hands 1-51
Hands 1-68
Hands 1-84

Frequency
11.3%
20.0%
24.0%
32.9%
43.9%

17

NOTES
Groups 1-4
Groups 1-5, 1 in 5
Groups 1-6, 1 in 4
Groups 1-7, ~1 in 3
Groups 1-8, almost

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As you can see, you have probably been playing the wrong hands. Its okay. You
didnt know better.
Generally speaking, our first experience with poker is usually 5-card where
everyone antes and has to play their cards. If they fold, they are out their ante.
This mentality you just cant take to Holdem. The only folks forced to pay are
sitting in the blinds. That means, if you have a hand that isnt on that chart, dont even
bother playing it. Fold it down. The higher up you go in the groupings, the better the
hand.
The chart shows the frequency of these top 84 hands showing up as your two
down cards. According to the groupings, 22, 33 and the low and middle suited
connectors arent even playable. And herein lies the problem with these groupings as
they relate to No-Limit Holdem.
Most all information on Holdem, as said before, has been published with Limit
Holdem in mind. These rankings hold true, of course, but in No-Limit, I dont think Id
exactly throw out 22, and 33.
I will be referring back to the groupings and the chart for the rest of this book.
Print out the chart and keep it in front of you if you cant remember how strong, or how
weak, your hand actually is.

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Here are the starting hands charts, and groupings, in an easier to find format you can print
out.

1 AA
2 KK
3 QQ
4 JJ
5 AK s
6 TT
7 AQ s
8 AJ s
9 AK
10 KQ s
11 AT s
12 KJ s
13 AQ
14 99
15 QJ s
16 KT s
17 88
18 QT s
19 A9s
20 AJ
21 JT s

22 KQ
23 A8s
24 AT
25 K9s
26 A7s
27 KJ
28 A5s
29 Q9s
30 T9s
31 77
32 J9s
33 A6s
34 QJ
35 A4s
36 KT
37 QT
38 A3s
39 K8s
40 JT
41 A2s
42 Q8s

43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63

T8s
K7s
98s
66
J8s
A9
K6s
K5s
A8
87s
97s
K4s
Q7s
T7s
K9
J7s
T9
55
Q6s
Q9
K3s

19

64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84

J9
A7
Q5s
A5
K2s
Q4s
A6
T6s
J6s
A4
J5s
K8
Q3
44
T8
A3
J8
Q8
K7
A2
K6

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Aces Rank Group

AA
AKs
AK
AQs
AQ
AJs
AJ
ATs
AT
A9s
A9
A8s
A8
A7s
A7
A6s
A6
A5s
A5
A4s
A4
A3s
A3
A2s
A2

13

20

11

24

19

48

23

51

26

65

38

70

28

51

35

73

70

79

41

83

Tens Rank Group

TT
T9s
T9
T8s
T8
T7s
T7
T6s
T6
T5s

Kings Rank Group

KK
KQs
KQ
KJs
KJ
KTs
KT
K9s
K9
K8s
K8
K7s
K7
K6s
K6
K5s
K5
K4s
K4
K3s
K3
K2s
K2

10

22

12

27

16

36

25

57

39

75

44

82

49

84

50

54

63

68

Queens Rank Group

QQ
QJs
QJ
QTs
QT
Q9s
Q9
Q8s
Q8
Q7s
Q7
Q6s
Q6
Q5s
Q5
Q4s
Q4
Q3s
Q3
Q2s
Q2

Nines Rank Group

99

14

30

98s

45

59

98

43

97s

53

78

97

56

96s

71

15

34

18

37

29

62

42

81

55

61

66

69

76

Jacks Rank Group

JJ
JTs
JT
J9s
J9
J8s
J8
J7s
J7
J6s
J6
J5s
J5
J4s

21

40

32

64

47

80

58

72

74

8's & less Rank Group

20

88
87s
87

17

52

77
66
55
44
33
22

31

46

60

77

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Limping-in Bad Hands

Playing your two down cards CORRECTLY is the most important part of Hold
em, pre-flop. Just by looking at those 2 cards, you can get a pretty good idea of how
good your chances are of winning that hand. No flop, no turn, no river.
All that the other cards do is change your chances, for better, or for worse. In this
section, I am going to reveal the CORRECT way to play the top hands, and what hands
you want to throw to the muck.
In the chart above, you see hands in groups that were originally set forth by
S&M and restructured more recently for a college computer science thesis. These groups
are important. It sure makes talking about the hands a lot easier. And so we begin.
Any dummy can tell you that AA is the best hand to play and 72os is the worst.
But, what if 772 flops? How do you like your aces now? Granted, if another ace comes
on the turn or the river, you beat old 72s full house. It could happen. The more
important question you should ask yourself is, Why did I let someone with 72 stay in the
hand?
In Holdem, the players are allowed to raise pre-flop. Here is where the strategy
starts. You see your two down cards, and know, generally, how strong they are. This is
one determining factor in how you will play the hand.
The second is your POSITION at the table. It is a LOT easier to play from the
button, or close to it in late position, because you will already know how everyone else
has bet.
The third is the cost of the blinds. There are some definite guidelines for playing
each hand, and I will discuss those here.
In an SNG game everyone starts with the same amount of chips. Generally, this
is 800 or 1000. The blinds usually start at 10/15, and go up to 15/30 next after 10 hands
or 15 minutes. These are the low blinds. When the blind is low, it encourages you to
limp-in more.
I would say to limp-in with about everything, if you can, when the blind is at 15.
You never know what you are going to catch, and if nobody ever raises behind you, you
will spend a grand total of 150 chips to see 10 flops. Even if you never catch anything,
you are still only down to 650 chips and can tighten it down from there. So the blind cost
should be a major determination of how often you attempt to limp-in.

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You must have discipline though, if you are going to limp-in during the 15 blinds.
It is much easier to limp-in from the button or late position as you know if anyone ahead
of you raised or not. From early position, you are just hoping. You must have discipline.
Even 72os is a decent limp-in with the right flop. But, a hand that is decent for a
15 bet may not be a good bet at all at 30. Just like a good bet at 30, may not be a good
bet at 50. I have heard so many folks lament throwing away 10 4 only to have 10 10 4
flop. They get miffed and say they should have stayed in. Being the ass that I am, I
always retort, It was only 15 chips. Were those 15 chips going to break you?
The one pet peeve I have is when Im on the button, and am trying to limp-in. It
gets around to me, and I put in my 15, only to have the SB or the BB raise to 30. Ugh.
At this point, it is a mistake to raise to 30. You need the discipline to fold it down. Of
course, you will think, it is only another 15, so why not.

Pros and Cons

There are pros and cons to doing this.
What if this happens 10 times? Now you are out 150 more chips and at 500
instead of 650, if nothing ever hit. Not really that big a deal, but you are playing for a
miracle flop. Something along the lines of flush draw, 2 pair or 3 of a kind. The odds
say, with your crappy hand, this is not going to happen.
Generally speaking, if you are trying to limp in cards that are at least connectors,
or suited, then maybe you should put in the extra 15. If you are limping in something like
K5 or A6, maybe also. But the 10 4 I mentioned previously, I wouldnt. You are hoping
on just blind luck. If someone raised, even 15 chips, it means they have something they
are positive about and are trying to either increase the pot, or weed people out.
Remember, as always, DONT get sucked in. If you dont get 2 pair, a flush
draw (with 2 suited cards or the ace) or trips, FOLD! Nothing is worse than when you
go in with said 10 4, get a 4 8 9 flop, and nobody is betting. They all bet 15, so you do,
because you have low pair and a pseudo-straight draw.
Turn comes with a Q. Now you have low pair and a gutshot straight draw.
Another 15, and you call. River comes with an ace. Someone bets big, and its time to
fold.
Playing this hand cost you 45 chips, and you were never really in contention. It
is easy to do this, and do it often. This is the reason why the best players only play good
starting hands. They dont want to keep throwing a little money at small percentages.
They like to load up and throw a LOT of money at high percentages.
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In the previous example, if the J came on the river, odds are the worst you are
going to do is split the pot. But, you could lose it also if the other guy came in with K T.
That would give him 9 through K instead of your 8 through Q. This happens a lot,
actually.
When people are in on rags, you will see folks bet up the ignorant side of a
straight and be pissed when they lose. The ignorant side is the low side.
Lets say everyone is limped-in on a 15 bet. The flop comes 6 7 8. The guy in the
big blind is excited all you suckers let him stay in the hand with his 45. He bets it up,
and gets called. An ACE comes on the turn. Being that he still has the straight, he bets
even bigger, figuring hell get extra money from the folks looking for the ace. He gets
plenty of callers. River comes with a J. SWEET, he thinks. Bet BIG. He gets called
down and loses to ANYONE with a 10.
When you have the ignorant side of a straight, it cant get any better, it can only
get worse. Either bet it big to try to force everyone else out, and hope for no callers, or
just ride it in watching to see if a better straight becomes apparent.
Betting the ignorant side of an obvious straight is an easy way to lose.

23

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Playing Good Hands

How Much to Bet?
In the chart above, S&M have arranged the hands into groups. Each grouping has
different rules to follow. S&M put forth a general guideline that is still in use today, and
makes great sense.
Generally speaking, for group 1 and 2 hands, you want to raise 4 bets pre-flop. In
No-Limit, this means 4x the big blind. Group 3 hands you want to raise 1 bet, just to
eliminate the riff-raff, or enrich the pot.
I would say, group 4 to 6, I would look at your position, and how much they are
asking to see the flop.
Group 7&8 you ONLY want to limp-in, and mostly, ONLY from LATE position.
I dont know about ONLY playing 7s and 8s from late position, but ANYWHERE you
play them, you need to play them with DISCIPLINE.
Assuming you limped it in with only paying the big blind, you need to know to
FOLD if you do not hit a 4-card flush draw, trips, or 2 pair. DISCIPLINE. Do not
chase ANYTHING but the flush. If everyone just checks it around, then yeah, stay in the
hand, but definitely dont call a raise.
There are correct ways to play the top hands, and you NEED to know how to play
them in order to get the value you deserve from them. They are rare, and hopefully, if
you get them, you will get some sucker that lets you double or triple up with them.
You need to KNOW YOUR TABLE. If you are playing an SNG, and you get AA
and raise a 15 blind to 75 and get zero callers, then the game is pretty darn tight. You
will need to remember that for later. But, if you raise the 75 with AA, and get 5 callers,
you obviously undershot and have a good chance at losing.
In a real money game, with $.50 blinds, Ive seen everyone fold to a $2, but 6
people call to a $1. Sometimes, with the better hands, you just end up eating the blinds.
Which is just fine later in an SNG game when the blinds are up there. In a ring game
where the blinds stay the same, you dont want to make only $0.75 every time you get
AA.
You need to know your table and see how much money to get callers, and how
much to get folders. Hopefully, you wont be dealt any of these group 1s or 2s until a
few hands in so you can get a feel of how tight, or loose, the table is. Generally, at a $6
SNG, the table is pretty loose. For a 75-chip bet, you will usually get 2 or 3 callers,
which is just fine.
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Playing Group 1 Hands

Lets start off this section by showing you, and explaining the top hands chart the
young college phenom came up with:
Table 4 - Mean Rank Order of Hands

Number of Players at River

Rank

AA 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0

KK 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

QQ 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

JJ 14.4 4.8 4.4 4.3 4.0

AKs 5.0 5.4 5.4 7.2 26.6

TT 26.4 11.0 8.0 6.0 5.8

AQs 9.2 8.6 8.6 11.8 33.0

AJs 9.2 8.6 8.6 11.8 33.0

AK 7.5 7.8 10.0 26.2 40.0

10

KQs 11.2 12.2 18.2 18.0 20.0

As you can see, this is the mean rank order of the top 10 hands in hold em. The
numbers across the top tell you how many folks are in to see the river card. The numbers
in the boxes are the hand rank fluctuations. This was determined with heavy betting
being involved, and in LIMIT hold em, i.e. no foldem hold em.

25

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Because you can only raise so much, one bet, in Limit, more people can stay in
the pot. If you want someone out in No-Limit, you make it VERY expensive for him to
stay in and see cards. This chart makes a lot of sense though, and is still quite useful for
explaining how to play the top hands in no-limit hold em.
As you can see, the top 3, AA, KK and QQ hold their value regardless of how
many folks see the river card. These are the best hands in the game. Then we get to JJ.
JJ is listed as the 4th best hand in the game, but in a 2-player match up, it is
equivalent to the 14th best hand. The way it played out in the computer is that if a player
ended up one-on-one with JJ, and bet aggressively, they lost a LOT more than with QQ
or higher.
But, with 6 people in, it realizes its rank as the number 4 hand. For 6 people to be
in to see the river, I imagine the community cards were all runners and everyone was
shooting for a straight. JJ is a good hand in that scenario, as the jack can be used as the
low end of the highest straight or the high end of the middle straight.
The next hand is the big slick, AK, suited. This hand holds its value against up
to 2 other opponents, but after that it starts to slip. This hand is helped greatly if there is
the flush draw in its suit on the board, as you own the nuts in that case. As you will read
below, the big slick is a bear of a hand.
The sixth ranked hand, ten-ten, is valued about the same as JJ. It loses its value in
head to head, but if 5 or 6 are in, odds are the cards higher than it are spread out among
the bettors, and TT is a pretty good hand. I will reveal below the correct way to play
pocket pairs. Most importantly, JJ through 22.
The seventh hand, AQ s, never realizes its rank. And, as you can see, with a lot of
people in, its a very bad hand. This hands strength is primarily in its suited aspect. Its
still an ace with a good kicker, but if there is a K on the board, you can guess you are
behind in the hand.
With the regular slick, just AK, you can see that it is about twice as bad as the
same cards suited. Up to a point. With 4 others in, AK suited only loses two spots. AK
unsuited loses 16 spots all the way down to 26. Thats not good. Its still a good hand,
but only with a decent flop.
As you will notice, most of these hands get worse and worse the more people are
in. The exceptions are TT and JJ. These hands get better with more people in. Do you
want to play them against a crowd? Not really. Especially not if there are any higher
cards on the board. I will explain how to play these top hands in depth in the following
paragraphs.

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AA: By far the best hand in the game. It works against 1 person, or 6. But, you
dont want to play it against 6 every time. Watching WSOP, you see a lot of the guys
slow play aces. It looks great, when all of a sudden, theyve baited the other guy in, and
WHAP! All-in! They turn them over, and the look on the guys face with A Ts is always
priceless.
The guys on the WSOP can slow play aces, and Ill tell you why you cant.
At the bigger blinds, say day 4, day 5 of the WSOP, there mostly are only good
players left. Generally, good players have the discipline of only playing good hands.
When they get good hands, they bet them. Which is my first RULE.
RULE 1: BET YOUR HANDS!
If you watch, the guy that slowplays the aces is either on the button or in the
blinds. If hes in the blinds, it does him no good to come out firing, as most all will fold,
and hell only collect the other blind and the ante. He wants to double up with AA. So,
in the blinds, he can watch all the initial betting. Hopefully, one, and ONLY one of the
other guys will come out betting. Then he just calls and sees the flop. Check, check,
check. He just lays in wait until the other guy decides to make a play.
The other place is on the button. You get to see everyone come in. If some guy
in position 4 comes out firing, everyone else behind him will lie down, and the button
calls. #4 fires again, call, call, and call. This is advisable, as the AAs are only going
against one other opponent. Unfortunately, in low buy-in SNGs, you dont have this
option. If you try, you will usually be against 4 or 5 people, which is not good if you
dont get a good flop.
To play AA, you need to raise 3 or 4 times the big blind. With AA, it doesnt
matter what your position is, though, if you are under the gun, you could try to just call
the big blind, then if someone raises, you go over the top, or call. This is risky though, as
you may accidentally let everyone see the flop. If that is the case, hope for an ace.
If the blinds are 15, put in 60, 75 or 100. If the blinds are 30, put in 100, 125 or
150. If its at 50, put in 150 or 200. Again, know your table. If a 60 bet will get 4
callers, but a 100 bet will get 2, bet the 100. If a 75 bet will get zero, but a 60 will get 3,
take the 60 with 3 callers. You want to collect all the chips, and weed out low hands.
If the flop doesnt give someone else a good hand, raise, raise, raise. If it looks
like there could be a flush draw, RAISE EVEN MORE. You want to knock anyone
trying to make a straight or flush draw against you, out. Or make it really expensive for
them.

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How much to raise post flop? Generally, the pot. So, if three players are in,
and you raised to 125, there is now, say 375 in there. If you are trying to keep someone
from chasing the flush, put in double what the pot has, or go all-in.
If you dont catch an ace on the flop, you jump your raise to 150-200. Hopefully,
one or more will drop. Then there is, say, 700 in there, and the turn card doesnt pair the
board, and it isnt an ace, you want to bet at least what you bet last time, if not some
more. In this case 200-350. Or, if you are a bit worried, you can try to knock the other
guy out by putting him all in. If you are the big stack.
But, if the board pairs, with say, Ks, Qs, or 10s, you can pretty much assume
someone has 3 of a kind. This is why you want to get it down to one or two people preflop. Odds are they are staying in with AK, AQ, AT, or more likely, KK, KQ, KT, KJ
and most likely suited. That way, when the flop comes, 8 4 J, you know you can raise at
will. If the board pairs, or even if there is a Q, a K or a J up there, you have to be a bit
careful if someone has pockets.
If you raised correctly, and got one or two callers, and you catch an ace on the
flop, it is going to be tough to beat you. Again, look at the cards. Make sure there isnt a
straight draw, or a flush draw. If there is, you need to BET and BET BIGGER. You
want to drive folks out that are trying to draw a hand that will beat 3 aces.
If there is neither of those, NOW it is time to slowplay.
You want to get as much out of this guy, these guys, as you can. When they see
that ace up there, and you check it, or if they check to you and you check, you give the
impression that you have Ks or Kx and are now afraid of the ace.
AGAIN, DO NOT CHECK IF THERE IS A FLUSH DRAW AGAINST
YOU!
Or even a mid-high straight. If your opponent is holding Kx and sees you check,
he will see if he has 2-pair or not. What you are hoping for is a guy to actually have the
4th ace and something else, say AJ suited. With your check, he will assume, hopefully,
that he is now the leader with Aces and a high kicker, and will try to milk you.
If you see the turn card, and there are 2 of the same suit out there, you may want
to go over the top of any bet and make sure he folds shop, or make it excruciatingly
expensive for him to try to complete his supposed flush. Dont get beat by the flush, or
straight, without doing your best to knock him out.

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Also, if slowplaying because the ace came up on the flop, and the board pairs, you
now have a full house. Let him draw to the flush or straight. There is little chance he is
betting because he has 4 of a kind, especially if the board pairs with low cards. Only
make token bets, or calls, and hope the flush comes up. If it does, make a small bet, and
let him come over the top of you. Dont just let him check.
Too many times, Ive gotten the ace on, say, the turn, with a low pair shown on
the flop, gotten all excited and overplayed, driving everyone else out in an attempt to
quell the draw toward the flush. The flush wouldnt have beaten the full house with 3
aces. The only thing that will, in that scenario, is 4 of a kind.
If you have aces, and bet them correctly, and the board pairs low, and you get a
3 ace for your full house aces full of X, and still get beat because someone was paying,
and holding low pockets, that is a bad beat. It is a bad beat even if its Qs or Ks, but at
least, you know why they were holding them through the raises.
rd

KK: A lot of beginners think that the KK is a terrible hand because they keep
losing with it. The way to play this hand is EXACTLY as above with the AA. You play
the KK from any position with a 3x or 4x raise pre-flop. The only thing you have to look
out for is if an ace falls. If you raised correctly pre-flop, and you have one or two in with
you, there is a pretty good chance of either or both having an ace. At this point, you have
two options.
The first, and right thing to do is to check, and when they raise, fold it down. Its
hard to muck 2 kings, but you pretty much have to. You are beaten unless a K comes on
the turn or river. If they are slowplaying their pair of aces, take as many free cards as you
can. If you can catch the 3rd king because some yahoo decided to be sneaky, they are
beat. Most will raise, and if they do, I wouldnt chase them. There are only 2 cards in
the deck that can help you at this point, so the odds are very much against you.
The second, and more aggressive, way to play is to keep betting like you have
AA. If you bet KK exactly as you bet AA, and you had one of these hands previously at
this table, they wont know exactly what you have.
The reason to keep betting, and betting big, is to make them question their kicker.
It may end up costing you, but if they just followed you in with, say A9s, and the flush
isnt a possibility, and you keep hammering away, you may make them crack and fold by
making them think you are in with AA, AK, AQ, AJ, or AT.
This works quite well actually against folks that have the ace and the ten or lower.
You most likely WONT be able to make someone with AK, AQ or AJ fold it down.
These folks are assuming they have high pair, high kicker, and no amount of money you
throw at them will deter them.

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Another way to play it, if you are leading in chips, and the flop comes with an
ace, is to instantly put in enough chips to force the other two all-in. This makes them
assume you have AA or AK, which will be tough to beat with an ace on the flop. Faced
with being eliminated, they may fold it down with a low kicker.
Without an ace in the mix, just keep pounding away. It is very rare for a guy to
have KK and have an AA against him in the same hand. It happens, and it hurts when it
does, but it doesnt happen very often.

QQ: With QQ, you also raise it as with KK or AA. Again, if the Ace or King is
on the board, and you raised properly, you are already beat. Hope the guy/guys you went
in with try to slowplay it. That way, when you check, they will let you see a card for
free. Dont get caught up if you do make your trips though. With an A or a K already on
the board, there is a good chance they have 3 of a kind also.

AK: The big slick. By far THE most overrated hand in the game, and a hand it
is tough to win with. This hand TOTALLY relies on the flop. The correct way to play
this is to OVERBET it. Unfortunately, when you do get a caller, they usually have a pair,
and you are about dead. You can hope they have QQ or lower so you still have your 6
out cards. That is the correct way. The ONLY time I play it that way, is when the blinds
get big, over 100, and there are only 4 or 5 left at the table.
The way I prefer to play it is to just limp it in, or maybe just a single bb raise.
This will get rid of folks with 2 6 and other really crappy hands. If you dont get an A or
a K, and someone bets it up, fold it down. In this case, you havent put a lot into the pot,
and its just another case of the slick gone badly.
If you dont get a matching card, you only have ace-high. But, if you do get an A
or a K, check it around, or a minimal raise, and see if anyone bets. If they do, you can go
over the top. I would wait for someone to steal, or bluff at it.
Beware the flush draw or straight draw though. Especially the flush draw. If
there is a flush draw, you should try to make it quite expensive for them to chase. If the
flush draw doesnt happen, you know you wont be able to milk them after the river card,
so you have to milk them earlier. If it does hit, dont invest much more than the minimal
bet.
If someone is a maniac and puts it all in, you will need to know the player. If they
get the supposed flush on the turn, and go all-in, most likely it is a bluff. Why would
you try to keep people out with the flush, except to keep the board from pairing? You
need to know the player.
Good luck with the big slick. Its a bear of a hand.

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JJ: This hand is a strong hand that many folks get beat with. It is a dangerous
hand. The easy way to play it is to limp it in, or preferably, especially at the low blinds,
give it one raise. If there is nothing but rags on the board, you are most likely in the lead
and you can bet.
You may want to over bet at that point to, hopefully, drive out the folks with A,
K, or Q before they get their pair. Or you can slowplay it and hope for a 3rd J, making
you tough to beat.
With trips Js in this scenario, where you can limp it in, you will be very tough to
beat. You dont see many folks slowplaying AA, KK or QQ. If you get the J on the flop,
HOPE that there is a higher card with it. You will be able to bet, and since the K, Q, or A
was matched, you will probably get some action.
The other way to play this hand is to TOTALLY over bet it. If you have a decent
sized stack, throw all your chips in. Or bet 4 or 5 times the big blind. Do this especially
in late position. Hopefully someone wont have AA, KK, or QQ, and someone with, say,
AQ will call you. (If you are in late position, if someone had those better hands,
hopefully they will bet them, and that should deter you from going all-in.)
Even if the folks with the higher pairs do call, its a coin flip to see who will make
their hand. They own the tie, unfortunately. Or you wont get a call and steal the blinds.
I wouldnt suggest this when the blinds are 15 or 30, as you will most likely be only
making the blinds as your profit. But, when the blinds are 100 or above, this strategy
works pretty well. If they dont call, you get the blinds. If they do call, in a short-handed
game, they usually only have Ax and are trying to double up. If the Ace doesnt fall, they
are in big trouble. Personally, I prefer to slowplay them, until the blinds get to 50 or
more. Then I over bet them.

TT-22: JJ can be included here also. All of these pairs dont really do well until
you get trips, then its go time. Or do they? The conventional way to play these pairs is
to follow the crowd. If nobody is betting, maybe give it one raise of the BB. But, for the
most part, limp it in and see the flop.
If someone raises to 75 or 125, meaning a good, high pair or high suited
connectors, it is often still a good idea to call and see the flop. If you flop trips, bet it up.
If you dont get trips on the flop, and nobody else really goes at it, you can wait for your
card.
If you can limp in a pair, and there really isnt much action, and no overcards to
your pair, you are most likely leading. The key is to get trips. Trips is a good hand, but
beware of the flush draw. If you go in with, say, 99, and flop a 9, but there are 2 suited
cards, bet it hard. You want to make it expensive for the other players to try to get the
flush.
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They will still most likely chase it, and if the 3rd suited card hits, and the board
doesnt pair, its time to check it around. Limp pairs in, and bet it hard when you get
trips. This is the conventional way. The more new-school way is a bit extreme. I will
explain it below.

Playing Low Pairs (and the slick) All-in

Have you ever seen where everyone is just posting the big blind, with few raisers,
and all of a sudden, someone pushes their stack of 700 all-in? Then everyone folds in
turn. You make some comment to yourself like, What an ass. I hope someone calls him
next time and puts him out.
I know I used to think that too. What was actually happening, most likely, is that
he had a pair. Maybe a high pair. In this case, I mean JJ, TT, or 99, or maybe AK. I
would say MOST of the time that is the case. Rare is the case that someone would
waste AA, KK, or QQ with just the possibility of raking the blinds.
AA, KK and QQ, as you can see in the chart, hold their value regardless of how
many people are in at the river. Think about it. If you have AA, and nothing but rags
come up, as long as the board doesnt pair low, you have the winning hand. Same with
KK, or QQ.
If the community cards come in high, you have most all hands beat. The
exceptions, of course, are when you have KK, or QQ and an ace is on the board. You
know you are behind. But, if you catch your K or Q, you will most likely win the hand.
High pairs are good hands, and as explained above, if bet correctly pre-flop,
should only be up against other decent hands. It is RARE when you bet up 125 on KK,
and someone calls with AA. More often, folks call you with Ax or Kx suited looking
more for the flush.
Although there was one time that I was short-stacked, and went all-in with QQ
pre-flop. Three others went all-in also pre-flop. As we revealed, one had AA, the next
had KK, and lastly the other guy had AK. I was amazed, but happy I still had my 2 outs
in the deck, whereas, AA knew he wouldnt get any better. Nobody caught anything, as
youd expect, and I was out. So it does happen. Its just not very likely.
With pairs JJ on down, throwing it all-in is a pretty good way to make at least the
blinds, and maybe double-up.
Let me explain.
Say you have 55, pocket 5s. (P5s) It gets to you, and you go all-in. Most of the
time, everyone will fold. You then rake the blinds and whoever called the blinds. But, if
someone calls, you have an instant showdown.
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In this case, lets say you raised in early position and the guy behind you called
your all-in with AA. You think you are dead. He thinks you are dead. This is NOT the
case at all. At this point, all he has is the tie if nobody catches anything. You have
EXACTLY the same odds of making trips as he has of catching a 3rd ace. Thats a coin
flip.
So, you think, since there are still 5 cards to be revealed, you only have 2 cards in
48 to beat the AA. Thats about a 4% chance, impossible. Not so. You still have 5
draws at that 4% chance with every card that ISNT a 5 making your percentages better.
I have lost PLENTY of times with my opponent only having that 4 or 5% chance with
ONLY the river card left. So it isnt impossible, its a coin flip.
You also have to take the board into consideration and your suits. If either, or
both, of your 5s are different suits than his aces, you can win with a flush if 4 of your
suited cards come up. Also, pre-flop, you have a MUCH better chance at a straight than
AA.
With 5s, you are the high card in A-5, the low card in a 5-9, and the middle card
on all straights in between. You have 5 straight possibilities. With AA, he only has two
straight possibilities, and if you have 55, his low straight has to be perfect. The only
cards on the table could be 2 3 4 5 and one other, non-pairing card.
Or the board could create a straight, or a flush, and youd split. Say, 7-J, or 8-Q.
Or any straight, really, as long as you or he werent the ONLY owner of the straight. So,
you arent dead by any means, pre-flop.
But, if you play this correctly, you WONT be up against those top hands. Now I
will explain the correct way to play with this strategy.
First off, I wouldnt do this with, say, 44, 33, or 22. First because of the limited
straight possibilities, but mostly because EVERYTHING that anyone calls with will be
higher than your cards. This doubles his chances of catching his card.
JJ, TT, 99 are GREAT hands to do this with. The correct way to do this is in late
position, preferably on the button. That way, you get to see if anyone gives the BB a
good raise, or if someone else goes all in. That way, you can decide to play the
conventional way or not.
A great time to do it is in late position with 4 or 5 callers to the big blind, or small
raises. Then you just go all-in, they fold it up, and you rake it without showing what you
had. Now they dont know if you just burned an AA hand, or bluffed with 72os.

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The SECOND time you do it, you will most likely get a caller; just to see what
hand you think is worth such a raise. The second or third time is a REALLY good time
to do it with AA, or KK, or QQ. You will most likely beat whatever they call you with,
and the others at the table will likely assume thats how you always play those pairs, and
try to avoid you.
That works out GREAT for the end game with huge blinds.
What you are looking for, if played correctly, is someone with a lower pair than
you that knows this little trick. Hes taking his coin flip shot to double up, and more
power to him. Just hope he doesnt get lucky.
More often your callers will be folks trying to limp in AK/AK suited, AQ/AQ
suited, and AJ/AJ suited that didnt want to bet, but have decent hands. Especially if
their suit comes up. In a loose game, or if someone is short-stacked, you will see callers
with Ax suited.
If you do this with JJ, TT or 99, hopefully their off card is lower than your pair.
To beat you, he is basically down to 3 cards. This is why I advise against doing this with
really low pairs, like 44, 33, and 22.
If, say, you were all in with 44, and a short-stack calls with A5 suited, hes still
going to need to get some luck, but his odds are doubled. Hell have 6 cards against your
2. Plus, hell have the flush draw, and the straight draw. I dont really like your chances
in that case.
If you were all-in with, say, 7s, he has to pair his top card which is 3 cards to
your 2, so about the same odds. In that case, Id be more worried about the flush. More
often than not, when you do this, and are called, it will be against someone with an ace,
and suited or someone with a pair.
Fortunately, most of the time you do this, it wont be called at all, and you can
rake in the pot. Thats why I usually wont do it until the blinds at an SNG are up to 50
and above. That way, if all you collect are the blinds, you are still making 75, and people
think you are an idiot and cant play.
Where this works BEST is at the higher blinds, say 100 or 200, and you are shortstacked, but not low enough to get 5 callers. Say, the blinds are 100 and you only have
400. Go all in. In this case, regardless of position. Hopefully in late position where one
or 2 other guys only called the BB. That way, if everyone folds, you have the 2 calls, the
SB and the BB. Thats 350. You basically doubled up without having to show a card. If
only all poker were that easy.

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Usually, when you are the short-stack, folks want you out. Some people take
pride in how many folks they eliminated. I dont get that. It must be an ego thing. I take
pride in playing well and winning money. Everyone could knock each other out as long
as Im left standing for all I care.
You will get these Samaritans that want to do the table a favor and rid the rest
of your presence. Usually the large stack playing loose. You go all in with your 400
chips, which are a deterrent to someone holding on with 1200 or so, but if a guy has
3000, it is only an annoyance, and he calls. This is what you want. More often than not,
these Samaritans will try to put you out with just about anything.
I saw a guy today try to do it with Q 5 os. The guy short stacked had 9s and it
was no contest. These guys get a bit loose just trying to rid the table of the short stack,
but what they actually do is double them up. If you are the big stack, dont be that guy.
Let them earn their way back in the hard way. Or call if you have something decent.
Heck, even ANY flush draw, with an A or K, is okay to call against a pair pre-flop.
I guess that that is enough about the game of pre-flop poker. You now know your
hands, the ranking of the hands, and you have a good idea of your chances of winning
with those hands. If you only play good hands, you have a much better chance of
winning.
Now I will move on to your odds of winning with your hand post-flop.

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Post-Flop Hand Odds

Calculating Outs
Youve started with a good hand. You think you have a pretty good chance of
winning with it, depending on the flop. And there it is. The flop changes the dynamic of
the game. Every hand is a good, or great, hand if they get the right flop. But, you dont
always flop the nuts. You rarely do. So you have to make do with what you now have.
You possibly have two more cards coming to help you, or hurt you, and you need
to know the odds of that help, or hurt, happening. That is what hand odds is all about.
Hand odds are your percentage chance of getting the card you think will win the
hand for you. If at all possible, hope to draw to the nuts. But thats not always possible.
If you have pocket 9s and the flop comes Q 4 2, you most likely wont be drawing to the
nuts.
But, since there wasnt a raise pre-flop, you are pretty sure trips 9s will win it. If
another Q shows up, not only wont you be drawing to the nuts, you may be drawing
dead. Then again, the guy with the Q most likely doesnt have QQ as he didnt raise preflop. So, if the other Q does show, then a 9 on the river, youve made your boat, which
most likely will be good enough.
So it doesnt have to be the nuts you are drawing to, just good enough to win.
You need to be able to analyze your chances of succeeding with your draw, and thats
what this section is all about.
Im going to post the standard hand odds chart. Dont put all your faith into
these percentages. I will explain a bit about them below. I will also show you how to
calculate your outs and compute your own odds.

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Outs and Odds Chart

Outs and Odds

Or this, taken from http://www.poker-beginner.com/probability.htm

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Odds Scenarios Chart

The odds of improving your hand on the flop when you hold certain pocket cards
You hold

Flop gives you

Odds

Pocket pair

Three of a kind

10.1-1

9,0%

Pocket pair

Four of a kind

407-1

0,24%

Pocket pair

Full house

136-1

0,73%

Any two unpaired cards

Two pairs

48.5-1

2,0%

Any two unpaired cards

A pair

2.1-1

32,4%

Two suited cards

Flush

118-1

0,84%

Two suited cards

Four cards to a flush

8.1-1

10,9%

Any two unsuited cards

Four cards to a flush

88-1

1,12%

Two connected offsuit cards (4,5 to T,J)

Straight

76-1

1,31%

The odds of improving your hand on the turn when you hold certain hand
You have

Turn gives you

Odds

Four cards to a flush

Flush

4.2-1

19,1%

Open ended four card straight

Straight

4.9-1

17,0%

Gutshot straight draw

Straight

10.8-1

8,5%

Three of a kind

Four of a kind

46-1

2,1%

Two pair

Full house

10.8-1

8,5%

A pair

Three of a kind

22.5-1

4,3%

Nothing

A pair with a pocket card

6.8-1

12,8%

The odds of improving your hand on the river when you hold certain hand:
You have

River gives you

Odds

Four cards to a flush

Flush

4.1-1

19,6%

Open ended four card straight

Straight

4.8-1

17,4%

Gutshot straight draw

Straight

10.5-1

8,7%

Three of a kind

Four of a kind

45-1

2,2%

Two pair

Full house

10.5-1

8,7%

A pair

Three of a kind

22-1

4,3%

Nothing

A pair with a pocket card

6.7-1

13,0%

The odds of improving your hand from the flop to the river:

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You have

Turn or river gives you

Odds

Four cards to a flush

Flush

1.9-1

35,0%

Three cards to a flush

Flush

23-1

4,2%

Open ended four card straight

Straight

2.2-1

32,0%

Gutshot straight draw

Straight

5.1-1

17,0%

Three of a kind

Four of a kind

22.3-1

4,3%

Two pair

Full house

5.1-1

17,0%

A pair

Four of a kind

1080-1

0,09%

A pair

Three of a kind

10.9-1

8,4%

Flop probability:
The table flops

Odds

Three of a kind

424-1

0,24%

5-1

17,0%

Three suited cards

18-1

5,2%

Two suited cards

0.8-1

55,0%

No suited cards

1.5-1

40,0%

A pair

Three cards to a straight

28-1

3,5%

Two cards to a straight

1.5-1

40,0%

No straight cards

0.8-1

56,0%

Above are a couple of charts that have your chances of drawing your card
computed for you. These are based on your number of outs. OUTS are how many
different cards are theoretically left in the deck to improve your hand i.e. make your
straight, make your flush, get trips.
If you have the pair of 9s in the previous example, you have two outs, the other
two nines. This is theoretical. If you are playing two or three-handed, there is a pretty
good chance no one has taken one of your outs.
But, with ten players in, there is a pretty good chance of someone having one of
your nines. That is why these percentages are only theoretical. You can only make the
assumptions of the percentages based on the cards youve actually seen.
With your two outs, and the turn and the river to come, the chart says you have an
8.4% chance of getting the other nine. With only the river left, you are down to a 4.3%
chance.

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Will it happen at 4.3%? I get beat by folks needing this supposed 4.3% all the
time. Supposedly, if I am in the lead and only one of these two cards will give him the
win, and there is only the river card to come, I should have a 95.7% chance of winning.
Do I win the showdown 96% of the time? Not even close. That would mean I
would only suffer 4 bad beats in every 100 showdowns at that percentage. With my luck,
and my experience, I would say he would draw the nine 25-35% of the time. Not 4%.
Pessimistic? Maybe a little, but the percentages are totally based on cards youve
seen. They are not based on the actual cards left. There is the problem.
In order to calculate your outs, you have to base it off of the cards youve actually
seen. Example: You have JT. Flop comes 9 Q 4. You have an open-ended straight
draw. You have eight outs to complete your hand. Will it be the best hand? Possibly
not.
If the K comes on the turn, you have your straight. Unfortunately, when a J or a
10 comes on the river, anyone holding A 10 or A J now has a better straight than you.
You always want the straight to fill in on the low end in order to bet it. But I digress.
You have eight outs, the four Ks and the four 8s. There are 47 cards left.
You have two and can actually see 3 more. So, 52 cards minus 5 cards are 47. In a tenhanded game, it is more than likely that someone, or two, or four, had your cards. This
would lower your percentage.
As it is, you have a theoretical 31.5% chance of completing your hand with the
next 2 cards. But, you say, isnt 8 divided by 47 17%? Yes it is. And that is why the
percentages given with 2 cards left are a bit of a farce.
There is some pretty smooth math involved in generating this 31.5% chance, and
none of it has to do with poker. In reality, you have a 17% draw on the turn card (8/47),
and then when you dont make it, you have a better 17.4% (8/46) chance of making the
straight. These are all theoretical percentages Ill remind you.
There are nine other guys at the table, each with two cards. If NONE of these
guys took ANY of your out cards, your percentages go up to (8/29) 27.6% on the turn
and (8/28) 28.6% on the river.
As you can see, the actual percentages vary quite a bit. The only way to get the
true percentage is to play all the cards face up. Unfortunately, the cards are played face
down, thus you never know your true percentage. That is, unless you are in a two-handed
situation and one of you two are all-in.

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Computing Outs Percentages the Easy Way!

As you may expect, there is a lot of math involved to come up with the
percentages above. Do you need to know it, or memorize the charts? No.
The easy way to figure your percentage chance of hitting your card is to come up
with your number of outs. If the situation is post-flop, take that number times 4. (4x outs)
If the situation is post-turn, take the number times 2, plus 2. ((2x outs)+2) These
percentages will be pretty close. What you are really trying to decide is your theoretical
chance of drawing the card. The actual percentage is not all that relevant.
In the example with the 9s above, you know you need one of two cards that may
be left in the deck. That is two outs. As I said before, I dont put much faith in the
percentages with two cards left. I just treat each draw as its own separate entity. In this
case, two outs times two plus two. A six percent chance of getting the other 9 on the
turn, and if not then, on the river.
All you really need to know is that six percent is not all that good. A little better
than one in twenty. Again, this is more of a guideline and not a predictor of what will
actually happen.
Recently I was in a game, post-flop, where one of my opponents went all-in. I
didnt have a pair yet, but when I counted my outs, I came up with 19 of them. I figured
if I hit ANY of the 19 outs, Id win the hand. If you look at the chart, that means that I
have a 65% chance of getting the card I need in the next two cards. Since I dont believe
that, and just use the times two, plus two, I figured Id have a 40% chance on each draw.
That is a great percentage, actually, if you are behind in a hand. So I call his allin. He had a pocket pair 66. I didnt hit ANY of my supposed 19 outs and I was out of
the game. After knowing what he had, I went back and counted how many actual outs
I had. It ended up being something like 30 or so. 30 cards, in two draws to beat his weak
pair of 66 and I couldnt do it.
I am not ONLY one of the unluckiest card players in the world; I am also one of
the most bitter.
If it werent for luck, I guess Id win every hand. Was once quoted by Phil
Hellmuth in one of his tirades. That is exactly how I feel.
It is also said that Good poker players dont play hoping to get lucky. They hope
to not get unlucky. This statement is true also.

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Playing in Position
As I have mentioned before, in the definitions, Playing in Position is THE most
important skill in Texas Holdem Poker. You absolutely want to get your best hands
when you are on the button, as you can dictate the action. More importantly, when you
are on the button, or in late position, you can play lesser hands without it potentially
costing you as much.
On the button is the best position in poker. You are in Position if you are on the
button. What this really means is, nobody is betting behind you.
When you are in the blinds, you are in early position, or more accurately, out of
position. The next couple spots after the button are still in early to mid position and are
weak spots.
The best way to think about it is, how many people are behind you that may
potentially raise your call? That is the question. When you are in the small blind,
EVERYONE is behind you. When you are on the button, only the blinds are behind you,
pre-flop. After that, you are last to bet. You get to see what everyone else does before
you get to decide what to do.
From here on out, I am going to label the spots 1-10 in a ten person SNG
assuming all 10 players are still in. 1 is the small blind, 10 is on the button. Play flows
around the table, clockwise, from 1 to 10.

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Tight in front, loose in back

Tight in front, loose in back is an old adage about playing poker. It is THE way
to play Holdem. I touched on it briefly in the starting hands section. I will reiterate
here.
Playing tight is only playing good hands. In our groupings, we are talking
group four or higher. Playing loose is playing just about anything. In our groupings,
group five and down. Anything out of the groupings is REALLY loose.
The ONLY time to play cards that loose is in the end game, with four or five
players left, or if you are on the button and can limp in.
Since you can see how everyone has bet ahead of you, playing on the button is the
best spot in poker. If someone ahead of you raises more than you are comfortable putting
in, you can fold without it costing you anything. The blinds only have this advantage
pre-flop, but it costs them a bet, and a half-bet, apiece.
From the button, with low blinds, I would say to play just about anything. If no
one has raised, with only players calling the BB, what will it hurt to limp-in by only
paying, say, 3-6% of your stack? If you catch a miracle flop, it will pay for itself,
possibly, 100-fold.
Again, you need discipline when you limp-in. You are looking for trips, 4-card
flush draw, or two-pair. If the betting doesnt get heavy, then stay in the hand.
Otherwise, get out.
In early position, say positions one through five, you only want to play good
hands. Top hands. You can try to limp it in from here, with lower blinds and playing at a
pretty passive table. If someone raises behind you, though, you need the discipline to
fold it down. You dont have a good hand, and are in bad position. Thats two strikes
against your chances this hand already.
If you know you have maniacs, or even good strong betting players behind you,
dont even waste the money trying to limp-in a bad hand looking for a miracle flop from
these positions. At the 30 blind and above, its just a terrible idea. There will be better
hands. Or, at least, the same hands with better position.
On the button, and a couple spots to his right, is late position. When you are in
spots eight, nine, and the button, you can loosen up a bit and play worse hands. In the
later positions, say seven through button, make sure to keep your eye open for folks
folding behind you.
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Personally, without a raise on the table, I think its crazy to fold the button
position, but thats just me. If you are in position seven, and eight through ten fold, you
are now on the button. I LOVE when this happens. Not only did three people volunteer
not to play, but they also donated the best spot on the table to you.
There are a few advantages to playing the button, besides the obvious advantage
of betting last. I will go into that next.

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Playing on the Button

Playing the button, or position ten, is the best spot in the game. You will be on
the button once every time around the table, but as mentioned above, when others fold
they may donate the button to you. There are a few things you can do just because you
are in late position.
First, you can steal the blinds. If everyone has folded, and all that is left in is you
and the blinds, you can make an obnoxious raise over the top, hoping they will fold. A
button-raise. I would not recommend doing this unless you have, at least, a top 84
hand, and the blinds are 50 or more. Once the blinds get to 50, you make 75 chips when
they fold.
However, if someone in the blinds is short-stacked, expect a re-raise to their allin. Its a LOT easier to double-up against one opponent regardless of what they have.
Players in the blinds that are short-stacked are waiting for just such an opportunity, as
pre-flop is the only time they bet last.
You can do this when the blinds are 30 or 15, but you really arent making much.
Later in the game, with higher blinds, 100+, even with a raise to 200, expect the SB to
fold, and then its you against the BB, if he doesnt fold. This match up is all explained
in the End Game section below.
You can also steal the table, especially at the lower blinds early in the game. If
you have a somewhat decent hand, and six people have put in their 30 chip blind, from
the button, you can go all-in. Or raise an obscene amount like 500. All-in usually works
better. You dont want to play the hand, but you do want to collect 180 chips and not
show your cards.
In this situation, you hope nobody was slowplaying a top 4 hand. Just by
everyone limping it in, it usually means nobody had anything. More often than not, you
will collect and move on to the next hand.

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Two for the Price of One

Secondly, there is a trick you can do on the button that will get you two cards for
the price of one, most often. Lets say its a 15 blind, and there are eight people in.
Everyone limped in without anyone raising. Flop comes. Everyone checks it around to
you.
Now, a lot of times, the button just checks. But the best thing to do in this
situation is to throw out a feeler bet. Throw out one bet. In this case 15 chips. This is
also called betting for information. What it often does though, is gives you both the turn
and the river for the price of one bet.
So its checked around to you, and you put out a 15 bet. As it goes around, 3
people fold, the other 4 call. That eliminated 3 people from catching something later on.
You will always see this. The best part happens next.
The turn card comes, and since its human nature not to want to get re-raised,
everyone checks to the bettor. If you want to at this point, you can bet, but beware of
slow-playing players. When everyone checks around, I just check, and voila, everyone
knows his or her hand.
This trick works just excellently when you are trying to make a straight or a flush.
The feeler BB bet is usually low enough for someone slow-playing to just call, and not
re-raise.
In the previous example at the 15 blinds, you limped in your small suited
connector for 15. You got two more of your suit on the flop. Everyone checks, you raise
15 chips. Most everyone calls. Turn comes and its no help. Everyone checks to the
bettor. You check. River comes for basically free.
Now you know whether or not you made your flush and can bet accordingly.
You paid 30 chips to see all 7 cards. You know exactly what you have, and you
know what the nut hand is. At the higher blinds, say 50 or 100+, it is not uncommon just
to see everyone fold to your feeler bet.
The feeler bet is also called betting for information. Say the flop comes AAQ.
You know somebody has to have something, yet everyone checks. You throw in a bet
that is double the blind, in this case, lets say 60. With that flop, almost everyone without
an ace or Q will fold. Most likely someone will at least call, or raise over the top. Now
you know at least half of their hand. You can compare it to yours and see if you want to
go on.

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With a killer flop like that, and everyone checking, if nobody had anything they
will fold. Oftentimes you will steal the pot just for a semi-aggressive feeler bet from the
button.
Play the button for all it is worth. After all, you dont get that many hands with
the button.

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The Pot-Committed Fallacy

Being pot-committed is defined as putting a decent amount of your chips into
the pot, realizing you wont have a winning hand, and staying in the hand until its
conclusion. Often, especially in limit Holdem, players will set traps to get their
opponent pot-committed and take all their money with a superior hand.
I will state this now: There is no such thing as pot-committed. Pot-committed is
a fallacy. It is an excuse. Many players use it as an excuse to justify their losing. You
should not use this excuse.
Most often, a player is said to be pot-committed when he has unknowingly put too
many chips into a pot with a losing hand. Then, when he realizes he has the losing hand,
he pays to play the hand to completion just to make sure his opponent was not bluffing.
Rarely is his opponent bluffing, and now the player is eliminated, or severely
short-stacked.
Pot-committed is an excuse the opponent is hoping the player uses to justify
GIVING away all his chips. Good players set traps keeping the term pot-committed in
mind.
Every player has his loss threshold. This is the point where a player decides
hes in too deep to turn back. For some its their stack. Others, its . Others, it
totally depends on the condition and how good the actual hand they have is, even if its a
loser.
Many players use the term pot-committed to justify their losing with the big slick.
AK is only a good hand when an ace or king comes up on the board. Many a player has
played the slick to the river, and beyond, in the hopes that ace-high, king-kicker is good
enough to win. With 5 cards on the board that arent aces or kings, that doesnt happen
very often.
Somebody is going to pair something.
Ive even seen folks with the slick throw the rest of their stack in, after the river
card, hoping to bluff the other folks. The person with high pair is most often happy to
oblige, and the slick is out.
You have to know your loss threshold, and try to ignore it. You are never out of a
game until all your chips are gone. You can always, theoretically, come back and win if
you have chips. The lower your stack though, the better the hands you will need to
receive, and quickly.
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The reason pot-committed is a fallacy is that you can ALWAYS click the FOLD
button. You can fold at any time, as long as you have chips left. Some people think its
not worth playing if theyve lost almost all their chips, and toss the rest in. Even when
they know they are beat.
Dont do this.
Even having some chips is better than having none. I have seen plenty of people
come back from a devastating hit to finish in the money. My personal best is taking a
bad beat with the other guy all-in, only having 65 chips left, and winning the game.
65 chips.
Granted, it was early, so I could take a look at a few hands because the blinds
werent going to force me out, but I still needed some good hands, and some luck. Most
often when a guy gets that low, you see him all-in the next hand, with 5 callers, and he
has 8 3os. Out.
I would say that the toughest thing to do in poker is to lay down a hand that
youve spent a lot of chips on, even though you know its a loser. Once you know youve
lost a hand, or are going to lose, lay down the hand. At least, dont throw any more
serious money at it.
Lets say you make your trips on the flop and dont want to see any more cards, as
there is a flush draw with the flop. You want to make it expensive to chase it, so of your
800 chips, you throw in 450. The guy calls.
The turn doesnt help you, but it doesnt complete his flush if that is what hes
going for. He checks. You throw up another 250, lowering your stack to 100 chips. He
calls. River comes and it doesnt give you the boat but it does complete his flush.
He bets 100 to put you all-in. It is at this point you start to believe he may be
bluffing. Maybe he only has 2 pair. Maybe he has trips, but they are lower as you have
trips with the high card on the board. Maybe he was hoping to make his own boat, and
missed, and is now trying to steal it by representing the flush. If he doesnt have the
flush, you are certain you have the nuts. He hasnt lead with a bet, and now hes bluffing
knowing you wont call because if you are wrong, you are done. You think, Ill show
his bluffing ass.

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You call. Its flipped. He has the flush. You are out.
At this point you say to yourself, I had to call, I was pot-committed.
Or.
Pot odds. It was 100 to win 1600, 16-1 with the nuts barring the flush.
Both of these statements are you deluding yourself. You could have just as easily
clicked fold as you clicked call. Your opponent bet EXACTLY as he was chasing a
flush, then when he made it, he raised to see if he could get the rest of your chips. There
was nothing sinister. No cloak and dagger.
You say to yourself, How could he pay that much to chase a flush? Doesnt he
know that he only has roughly a 35% chance to get it? Boy is he stupid. Unfortunately,
there are MANY folks who will chase down that flush. Especially if the pot keeps
getting more lucrative. Especially at PartyPoker.com. Home of the flush they should
call the place.
Most people will chase the flush, no matter how much you pay, if they know you
are not chasing it also. By you raising 450 to take the pot, you were saying, essentially,
I want the pot, do not chase straights or flushes. At more expensive buy-ins, raising the
pot 200% may work as a deterrent. It does not work very often at the $6 and $11 dollar
SNGs.
These players will chase almost every flush. And, from my observations, they
will be rewarded somewhere around 75% of the time. It is uncanny how many flushes
you will see at PartyPoker.com. You will see as many hands won with a flush in 20
minutes at PartyPoker as you would in 2 hours at a casino. Maybe more. But that is a
different subject altogether.

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Lay Down a Loser

Obviously, you should have folded. You should have known you should have
folded, and folded. Now, knowing what you know, and realizing the odds of someone
chasing a flush every hand is pretty good, here is how you could have played in the above
scenario.
If you still chose to raise 450, and he called, that should be the end of your
deterring. You have dropped your stack from 800 to 350. Turn no help. He checks.
You can give a token raise if youd like, say 50 or so, or just check it. Hes going to
chase it to the end, and you have put a ton of chips in the pot already, why make it worse?
Granted, if he misses the flush, you will wish you had laid into him a bit more, but
you cant know that until after the river card is down. If he makes the theoretical flush,
and checks, just check it. If he doesnt have it, you win. If he was baiting you, he can
have all the chips you already put in.
The only way Id pay to see what he has in this case is if he makes it affordable.
Say 50 or so. Most likely, as before, hell put in enough chips to make you go all-in,
hoping hes bluffing. Hes hoping your curiosity, and the fact that over your chips are
in the pot, you will see it through and give him all your chips.
It takes control to lay down the trips. With having 300-350 chips left, you can
still play. You can still easily make a comeback and win. Lay it down.
If I get trips on the flop, and the flush draw is there, I will raise as a deterrent.
Only I wont raise a lot. Maybe 75, 100 or 125. Then, if he doesnt get it on the turn, I
double the previous to 150, 200 or 250.
Then if he theoretically makes the flush on the river, I just check. I am in less
than my stack and I tried to deter him. Sometimes, if I get a caller after the initial
raise, Ill check on the turn and save the chips. Generally speaking, chasers will pay as
little as they can to see the next card. You tried to raise them out initially; it didnt work,
so check it in.
It works both ways though. Say you are the chaser and your opponent makes the
big raise, 450, on the flop, and the 250 on the turn. You call, river comes, and your flush
isnt realized. Fold it up.
A lot of times, I will see folks with the busted flush raise the other guy, trying to
bluff that they werent chasing the flush the whole time.
This is silly.
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As we know, the opponent has the nut trips and is happy to call, or re-raise
whatever you are willing to throw out there. With the busted flush, check it down. You
are pot-committed, you think. No. You spent a lot of money to see the river card; you
didnt make your hand, fold it down and see other hands.
You have to know to fold down a losing hand. More often than not, you know
you have a loser. You chased a few big bets with your pair of 10s, and a third 10 never
fell. There is a K and a Q on the board. Do you honestly think you have a chance?
People were raising, or calling your raises. Now, after the river card, they are
raising again. Fold it down. Sure, they may be bluffing. They may be representing the
flop.
YOU ONLY KNOW, FOR SURE, WHAT YOU HAVE!
You know you have a pair of 10s, and its just not good enough. There will be
other hands. Fold down a losing hand.
If you dont call, and you do the right thing and fold it down, you can now try to
rebuild. If you call, and lose the hand, you are done. Nobody wants to be short-stacked,
but you will be there many times during your poker career.
The only exception to folding down a losing hand is when the blinds will eat you
up. Say, if your opponent is trying to put you all-in, and all you have left is 100 chips or
so anyway, and the blinds are 100, or 200 or 300 etc, you may just want to call and make
sure he isnt bluffing. Just for your own sanity.
You know he isnt, and you know you have a loser, but the blinds are going to kill
you. You will be relying on luck to get back ahead, and luck is something you dont
want to rely on playing poker. Perhaps you should call him down and see if it all was a
ruse.
This is the only exception.
If all you have left is 100, and the blinds are 50 or less, or more importantly, there
are a bunch of people left in, you will get a lot of looks at hands for your 100 chips. You
can pick your time to play, and try to double up.
A chip, a chair, and a prayer.

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Playing the Blinds

In position 1 (SB), and position 2 (BB), you already have your money in on the
hand. The ONLY advantage you get in the blinds is that pre-flop, you get to bet last.
After that, its a terrible place to be.
Generally speaking, you DONT want to play from this position. But, it is a nolimit game we are talking about here, so anything can happen. When you are in the
blinds, you DO get to see what everyone else does first. Sometimes, you actually get a
decent hand.
If everyone just calls the big blind, you are pretty golden. This is actually pretty
common in lower buy-in games. Most folks are afraid to bet their hands, and try to slow
play too much. You know a decent player by if he bets his hand or not.
If it gets called around to you, and you are in position 1, you have a decision to
make. First, you are already in for a bet. From the small blind, it is a losing
proposition, over time, to always call to the big blind. But, with a decent hand, why not?
Skalanski and Muldem (S&M) write that anything played from group 7 or lower
is not advisable, and not to overplay it. If you have one of the top 84 hands, in the small
blinds, you are quite lucky. Since no one raised, and you are in for already, it may be a
good idea to put in the other half.
If the blinds are low enough, say 10/15 or 15/30, I almost always put in the other
if that is all it will cost me. Regardless of what I have. You could get lucky. If the bb
is 30, and you are already in for 15, and have roughly 800 chips, like at the start of a
game, you are really only throwing in 2% of your stack. That is not much.
You need discipline though if you are going to play from the blinds. If you
called, and have a lower grouping hand, say groups 5-8, and dont get a flush draw,
trips, or two-pair, be prepared to fold it up. Even an open-ended straight draw isnt so
good from here.
Generally speaking, from the blinds, you will want to check. If you have the top
hands, group 1, and are in either of the blinds, by all means, play them accordingly. AA
and KK dont play well with a bunch of people in. AK doesnt play to its strength unless
its against ONE other guy. Basically everything else you will want to limp in.
Since this is the ONLY time you will play last, and you have one of the top hands,
you NEED to raise it. Play it just as you would from late position. If you were UTG, it
would be advisable to just call with AA or KK, and hope someone else raised so you
could call that, or re-raise.
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But, from the blinds, you just raise with the group 1 hands.
If you limp in, with some bad hand, and hit your flop, it is up to you to bet it or
check it. If you flop the nuts, ALWAYS check! If you have a pretty good hand, say two
pair, I still always check. Check, check, check. This way, you sort of steal the button
from the player on the button. If you check, whether you have a good hand, a draw, or
even nothing, at least you get to see what everyone else does without committing any
more chips.
Say its early in the game, and everyone has about the same amount of chips.
Youd hate to have, say A7 limped in, get an ace on the flop, and throw up 50 chips.
Then as it goes around the board, and #5 re-raises to all-in over the top of you. I
wouldnt advise going all-in with A7 at that point of the game. Odds are he was
slowplaying AK, or hit 2 pair.
Either way, he most likely has a better kicker than your 7. So you fold it down,
and are out 50 chips when you could have just as easily checked to see if nimrod #5 was
coming out firing anyway.
Most good players know that amateurs raise while in the blinds. Tight players
only raise in the blinds with the VERY top hands. If youve identified a player as a tight
player, and hes raising from the blinds, if you dont have one of the top hands,
something in group one or two, itd probably be best to fold it up and watch.

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Bluffing
Bluffing is an art. Only real fools flat-out bluff. For the most part, on the low
buy-in SNGs, you will have to play everything real tight. Another disadvantage of the
low buy-in SNGs is that most players are beginners and have a tendency to want to see
your cards to keep you honest. They will call down your bluff. The final
disadvantage, when playing with beginners, is that they dont recognize the play you are
putting on them. They dont know to fold, so they dont.
For the most part, on the low buy-in SNGs, dont bluff.
With that said, here are some useful tips for bluffing.
Bluffing isnt just taking any old hand and trying to win with it. Some folks do
this occasionally, and get away with it, but really, its financial suicide. You WILL run
into players, time and time again, that actually HAVE the hand you are trying to
represent. This happens a lot with a full nine or ten-person table.
The key to bluffing is to represent possible winning hands. Bluffing is done most
easily in position. It is also a lot easier to bluff at a short-handed (6 players or less) table.
With less hands being dealt, less cards are actually out there.

A Bluffing Example:
You have Ten-Jack suited Diamonds in the 9th position. You raise the BB when
its your turn. The button folds, SB folds, BB calls and so do two others. Four hands are
in to see the flop.
FLOP: 9d, 9s, 3c
You have basically missed the flop. You could catch running diamonds or suck
out two cards to complete your straight. The first 3 players check, and now its to you.
What do you do?
Being that you raised pre-flop, the other players will assume you have something.
They think you have a pair, or an Ace-something, or maybe even K-something. The preflop raise is the most likely reason everyone checked to you.
In this situation, I would bluff. Its not a major bluff. You could still suck out a
straight or even a flush. But taking a raised pot on the flop, after missing the flop, is just
good poker. You dont want the other players to catch something that helps them in this
situation. By checking to you, they have shown weakness. You should capitalize now.
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Could one of them be putting a play on you? Yes they could be. They may be
waiting for a check-raise. Doyle Brunson teaches that you cant live in fear of the checkraise. If one of them actually has the 9, they will show you. Then youll have to lay it
down.
In this example, if it was early, and the blinds were 10/15, and you raised it to 45
chips, there would now be (45*4 +10) 190 chips in the pot. My bluff bet would most
likely be 100 chips at this point. You could also bet the pot. I would then be hoping a
100-chip bet would drive the others off.
In this scenario, if someone calls, then you have some thinking to do. You tried
to bluff at it and failed. If they called, I would guess they had the 9, or a pair of threes.
Either way, you are pretty much done. But, you could still suck out a better hand in the
case of the player holding the 9.
If you get a caller, then you had better hope the turn card helps you. Lets say you
get a caller, the turn card comes 6h, no help. The caller checks to you. After such a
terrible turn card, Id be ready to call this hand quits. It would be very tough for me to
commit any more chips to this pot. It would be very tough for me, at this point, to
represent a hand that I tried, and failed to represent at the flop. I would probably just
check it in, fold to a raise.
Say you get a caller, and the turn comes Qh. Youve lost the flush possibility, but
have an outside straight shot. The other player once again checks to you. In this case, I
raise again, only larger, trying to drive the other player out. Itd be nice if the straight
hits, but I really DONT want to see the river card. In this situation though, after getting
a caller, I would assume he has the 9. If the river doesnt help me, I wouldnt put any
more chips in.
Almost nobody lays down a REAL three of a kind unless a very obvious straight
or flush is on the board. If you get the straight with the river, you can try to break him. If
not, pay him off and dont commit any more chips.
Okay, same situation, same hand, only you are in the BB. The button raised (just
twice the BB this time), and you called with your 10-Jd. There are two other players
behind you. The flop came 9-9-3 as before.
You check the flop. It goes around and the button checks. Lets say this time; a
6h falls on the turn. It is at this point; I would try to steal the pot. Since everyone
showed weakness, its time to take some initiative. You are in a VERY bad position, so
all you will get at this pot is this one STAB. Better make it good.

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I would bet the size of the pot or so, if I could afford it. Because of your position,
if anyone calls, you are done, and if anyone raises behind you, you also have to fold.
Hopefully, you will take down the pot. What betting out of the blind does is force
everyone behind you to see if the pot is worth it to keep playing.
It is better to win a small pot than lose a large one.
As you can see, bluffing is taking advantage of fears and using your position.
Generally, if its checked to you twice, you have to bet. Sure you may have nothing, but
odds are, your opponents dont have anything either if they are checking.
Bad players, generally speaking, bet BIG when they are bluffing and
conservatively if they have something. Watch out for this. This is why I recommend
always betting pretty big, ESPECIALLY if you think you have something! Big betting is
the only way to win a big pot.
I am not the worlds greatest bluffer. I DO know WHEN to bluff. With the
anonymity of the Internet, everyone has a great poker face. Betting your position,
regardless of what cards you actually have, is what bluffing is all about. You can feel
when the other players just want to give you the pot.
Try bluffing only after playing for a while. On the lower buy-in SNGs, a lot of
folks just wont lay down their cards. At a full table, somebody usually has it. It takes
some guts, but its a good skill to have.
Lastly, in the above situation, if my hand was 9-8 diamonds, played the same
way, I would probably bet it the exact same way. That is the key, to bet the hand as if
you have the hand.
If I am on the button, same situation, and I bet my 100 at the pot of 190 and
everybody folds, you HAVE to show that you had the nine. At least early on. It is a
GREAT label to have as being a player who bets big when he has a hand. The next time
you raise, on a bluff, you can expect similar results. Fold, fold, and fold.
If you are having a tough time getting any action, as you are betting big on your
good hands and folks just fold not letting you realize your hands worth, you may want to
show down a bluff bet. Either by someone calling you, or HOPEFULLY, winning the
hand and showing the bluff cards. By doing this, you WONT be able to bluff at that
table anymore. BUT, you can expect some callers the next time you have a good hand.
I have more about bluffing in the Super System chapter of the book.

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BAD BEATS
Bad beats, as I define it, is taking a winning hand and losing with it. Bad beats
are no fun, but happen a lot more than the statistics say they should. The hardest part
about bad beats is recovering from them.
Good Poker players will suffer MORE than their share of bad beats because good
poker players are playing hands that are in the lead more than other players. If you can,
you can look at a bad beat as a good thing. It means you were playing the hand correctly
and had an advantage going into the showdown. THEY had to beat YOU. If the
percentages work out, you win that percentage of the time.
Unfortunately, knowing you HAD the better hand and losing anyway doesnt do
any good to your bankroll or chip count. Bad beats are just a necessary evil of Poker.
Deal with it, and move on.
Yeah, I cant do it either. Bad beats tear me up more than just about anything
because I DO know all the statistics. I know the supposed percentages of the other
player catching a card. And most of the time that percentage is very low.
Heres some advice.
Do NOT get worked up because someone hit an outside straight or a flush against
you on the river. As far as percentages go, those are good percentages with one card to
come. Right around 17-19%. Almost one in five.
Do NOT get worked up if a guy with a pocket pair gets his trips on the flop and
ends up with a full house to beat your straight or flush. All that has to happen is ANY of
the other 4 cards (or 5, 4 of a kind) pairs on the board. You CAN get a bit peeved if he
hits his pocket-pair trips for a boat on the river.
Do NOT think it is a bad beat if you are all-in against someone pre-flop and get
beat. A bad beat doesnt happen until the river card. Just because you are taking your
AA vs. his 7-2os pre-flop, dont expect to win. Realistically, in that situation, there are
only 2 cards that will help you in the entire deck. If he pairs, and catches his trips or twopair on the river, then THAT is a bad beat.
Pre-flop showdowns have WAY too many variables to try to predict what will
happen. Just hope for the best, and dont take them too seriously. Unless you are beat on
the river card.
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The real Bad Beats are the 4% draws against you on the river. These just tear
me up. These bad beats have cost me a few hundred dollars, and I really dont remember
making any money getting a 4% draw to beat somebody. Im just not in the behind in
the hand situation very often.

How to Avoid Bad Beats

Bad beats are going to happen. The KEY is to NOT play on TILT after they do.
If you are lucky enough to suffer a bad beat and STILL have chips left over, consider
yourself blessed. Usually, one bad beat begets another, and soon you are out of chips and
out of the game.
As was discussed earlier, the only true way to avoid bad beats is to play correctly.
Playing correctly puts you in situations where you have the absolute best percentages to
win. There is an old saying, Always Be Raising or If you are going to call you may as
well raise.
With those sayings in mind, a good player should ALWAYS raise the big blind
pre-flop. Then only exception that I can think of is the late position limp-in where you
are trying to see some cards for a minimum amount of chips.
In the better games, at the higher buy-ins, you dont get to limp-in. Someone
seems to always raise. Raising pre-flop eliminates the marginal fluke hands that end
up giving you a bad beat. You have to make the other players think, and make a
decision. This starts with raising the big blind.
More often than not, to a significant raise, the big blind will fold. The big blind
gets a FULL bet in before seeing what cards are dealt. The odds of anyone getting a
Group 1-4 hand are 11.3%. So, a little more than 10% of the time the BB will have a
great starting hand. The other 88.7% of the time they will have a good hand at
BEST! If you have a playable hand, make them pay to play.
The other knock on the BB staying in the hand is that once they pay to stay in,
they are rewarded with terrible position.
Perhaps even more importantly, YOU dont know what kind of hand they have
because they put their money in blind. By raising the BB, you at least get SOME
information about their hand. Without raising, the BB could have ANY two cards under
there.
The BB has two strikes against it pre-flop. They put money in blind, and have
terrible position. Raise the big blind. The big blind will give you more bad beats than
anyone else. The small blind is second.
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Another way to avoid bad beats is to eliminate other players from the hand preflop. A lot of times I will see the UTG player call the BB, as he should if hes got a
playable hand. Then the next guy calls, then the next, and the next etc. If you are in 7th
position or so, a lot of folks will just call, even though they have a hand that should be
raised. The fear is getting re-raised.
With two or three players in ahead of you, odds are one of them has a hand they
like. They may be waiting to re-raise the raiser. Who knows? YOU dont want to play
in hands where there are 7 players seeing the flop. That is a recipe for a bad beat. The
more players that are in, the more possible hands that could be out there.
If two or three players ahead of you have called the BB, and you have a good
hand, RAISE IT. Sure, you may get re-raised as someone with bad position was just
waiting for someone to jump on. That is a risk. But, this is a hand you WANTED to
PLAY right? Now you are playing for a raised pot, and odds are, anyone caught inbetween he and you are probably going to fold.
In the same situation, and you felt like you should raise, but are REALLY afraid
of your hand being inferior if someone re-raises, then treat your hand as a limp-in. Just
call the BB. Now, if you are treating your hand as a limp-in, what is the rule?
If you dont have a four card flush draw, two-pair, or trips, fold it up!
By treating your hand as a limp-in, this is the rule your should live by when
limping-in. Anything less, even though you are in the lead in the hand, could very easily
result in a bad beat.
Bad beats are going to happen. Taking these simple steps helps you avoid the
most common cause of bad beats. Dont play on tilt, raise the big blind, play limp-in
hands only if you hit the flop.
Two years ago I took a bad beat where the guy needed running aces for the turn
and river in a short-handed game. He got them, and it STILL burns me up thinking about
it.

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END GAME
If youve played correctly, played good hands, and not taken any bad beats, you
WILL get down to the END GAME. The end game in an SNG is a totally different
game.
I consider the end game, in an SNG, any time you are down to 4 or 5 players and
the BB is 100 or higher. There are very specific rules to play by in the short-handed
game, and I am going to tell you how to play, so that you can win, more often than not.

Steal the Blinds!

Once it gets down to a short-handed game, and the blinds are 50/100, it is time to
watch what you play, but more importantly, steal the blinds on a consistent basis.
First off, you will need a decent hand. Whats decent? With 5 or less players
playing, the hands usually arent going to be very good. Now granted, you have the same
odds of a 72os as AA coming out as you do in a full ring. But, there are only 5 or less
people seeing hands, not 10, so effectively, the odds are cut in half.
There are less hands out there is what Im trying to say. So, a decent hand usually
has at least one high card in it, A or K. At least. If you are suited, thats even better. If
you get a pair, or a top 42 or 24 hand, even that much better. What you want to do, now
that you have a decent hand, is steal the blinds.
The key to success at this point of the game is to build a bit of consistency. Do
everything quickly. Press the buttons as fast as you can with no deliberation. That is the
key. Usually, I will not try to steal the blinds in a 5-person game unless I have a pretty
good hand, or I am on the button, or one guy over and nobody previous has called or
raised.
The end game, and the battle for the blinds, is psychological more than actual card
playing. In the end game, 2 people, the SB and the BB, put money in without seeing their
hands. They may have KK or AK or AA, but more often than not, they have 83 os, 10
6os, or Q5. These are not good hands. These are folding hands.
You would most likely fold them at any other time during the game. You may
play them when the blinds are 15, but at 100+? Think of how many crappy hands you
fold, and also think of how many crappy hands you play because the blinds are small and
nobody raised. During an entire game, there are a ton of hands like that.
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Now, all of a sudden, you are putting 100 chips in, which may be a large % of
your stack, on a hand you wouldnt play for 30. Plus, with 10 people in, 25 cards are
theoretically going to be dealt if it goes to the river. Thats almost half the deck. In 5man, its 15 cards. In 3-man, its 11 cards. 11 out of 52. That is not many.
Could you still pull a top 10 hand? Of course. If you do, you have to assume you
are way ahead. In 4-man, there are only 8 cards dealt pre-flop. If you are dealt AA, KK,
QQ, or AK, the odds arent good that youll be going up against anything worth playing.
So it is a moot point if you get one of these premier hands. There is a way to play them,
but I will show you how to play decent hands first.
Decent hands in the end game are usually anything with an ace or king involved.
Two high cards are preferable, suited, even better, and any medium to high pair is a killer
hand.
The way I play the end game, all you need is one of these decent hands. I am
going to analyze this in a 4-person game. With 5 people in, be very careful. With 5
people in, there are still going to be good hands out there. If you figure, in a 10-person
game, there is, on average, 2 good hands per deal, and they are supposed to showdown; in
a 5-person game, there is one good hand.
This is all theoretical, but you will notice it to be true the more you play. Once
the action gets down to 4 people, there is usually LESS than one good hand, so if you DO
get a good hand, you have to feel you are in the lead.
In the 4-person game, there are 2 players that do not have to put money in each
hand. If you are in the blinds, you most likely have a bad hand. You did not want to bet
the hand you have, but the order of the game forces you to. So, when someone who is
NOT in the blinds bets, dont you have to assume he has a better hand than your terrible
82os?
He VOLUNTEERED to play this hand. You were FORCED into it. This is the
thinking in the end game. Pay the blinds, steal the blinds back, get ahead.
When you are out of the blinds, and have a decent hand, RAISE at least twice the
blind. If you arent so sure about your decent hand, then raise 3 or 4 times the blind. At
100, if you only raise to 200, more often than not, the BB will call.
You DONT want that!
You want them to fold, collect your 150 chips and move on. You are most likely
playing, say, K7 os. This is not a good hand. Granted, the BB may have 83os still, but
the 100-chip raise is affordable to see the flop, and make you question the weakness of
his hand. Maybe he did catch something.
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If you are UTG, and raise, more often than not, the guy on the button will fold.
Why would he want to get into a match with you, unless he has something decent, when
its a free hand for him and youve already raised?
By raising, you are in essence saying, I have something decent, and its going to
cost you twice the blind to find out if you can beat it. So the button folds. Also, the SB
folds, as hes on the button next hand, and he actually has to spend 3x the amount to see
the flop as hes currently invested. So, more often than not, barring someone actually
having a good hand, it will be you against the BB.

DEFENSE: The correct defense for this action is not just calling. If you are in
the big blind, and someone is starting to raise over you, as Ive described, if you have a
decent hand, go all-in. Prepare for a call, just in case the raiser finally has something
good.
I play this way all the time, and I just hate running into the all-in guy. You have
to look at your K 3 os and say, Do I really want this to be my last hand? More often
than not, I fold it down.
If you run into an all-in guy, you have to be wary from now on. You dont know
if hes one of those guys until the second time he does it. The first time, maybe he
actually had something. The second time, you know its some sort of bluff, and you can
expect it to continue.
If he gives you the all-in EVERY time you try to raise over the top, pre-flop, you
can just start calling to the big blind with a decent hand. The next time you get a GOOD
hand, you raise over the top. Say, AA, KK, QQ, or AK. You know the good hands.
He gives you the knee-jerk all-in, and you call is ignorant ass. After I take all his
chips, or double up my stack, I usually throw a taunt in, such as, Oops. Hopefully, this
will tilt them, and someone else will knock them out. Because, rest assured, the next time
you raise over the top, and they go all-in, they will have a pretty good hand. So you had
better too.
Most of the time, these jerks are just taking exception to your raise and bluffing
back. But if you only call the BB, they wont raise at all. Which brings us to our second
phase.

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END GAME Phase 2

So, the BB didnt fold, and he didnt go all-in. But, he did call you, and now you
have to play. Flop comes, nothing.
What do you do?
BET FAST!!! If he checks to you, press the BET 100 or BET 200 button as fast
as you can. ALWAYS as FAST AS YOU CAN! Why? To show no hesitation. YOU
RAISED over the top. YOU saw the flop and RAISED AGAIN! What does this
knucklehead sitting in the BB not understand? His 10 4 os just isnt going to be good
enough.
You raise REGARDLESS of what is up there. If you actually catch something,
its the same thing. REPETITION! If you follow the same actions EVERY TIME, they
cant possibly know what you actually have.
You want him to fold.
You actually only wanted him to give you his blind money, but now, you will
take the raise money too. More often than not, the BB went in with a crap hand, he sees
the flop, gets no help, and the raise is already sitting there waiting for him to act. He will
fold.
Sometimes, these jokers actually call. Now you are into the turn card. He checks.
Look at your hand. Is it still good? Are there many over cards? If you still have a good
hand, or possibly the best hand out there, BET FAST AGAIN!
He may have had 3 cards that went together, then the turn card comes, he knows
hes not going to get his straight, and hell fold. Or, he was hoping to make his flush.
But he just may call. And its off to the river you go.
If the river doesnt complete an obvious straight or an obvious flush, you most
likely have won. If he checks, dont bother putting more chips in. He may have been
setting a trap. Just call, and if you win, fine, if he was indeed setting a trap, preparing for
the check-raise, he kind of looks silly for not betting the river card.
Now, dont forget, ALWAYS BET THE FLOP. ALWAYS BET IT
QUICKLY! No matter what you have. If he calls, he may have something, and you
may be able to just check it in with the nothing that you have. Dont keep throwing
money at it. If you have nothing and he starts raising, dont keep up the charade. Just
fold. Take the loss. There will be better hands and more blinds to steal.

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DEFENSE: Again, the proper defense for the flop-raiser is the all-in. Or, if
you do your fast flop-raise, and really have nothing, and the guy check-raises you, fold.
Play a different hand.
To play the defense properly from the blinds, you check, he raises, you go all-in,
and he folds. Youd better have something though. Its a LOT safer to do this defense
pre-flop, because with 5 cards coming, anything can happen. With only 2 more cards
coming, you know your odds of making the winning hand already. As does he.
If the same guy does the check all-in raise a couple of times, you know its a
bluff. So, pick your spot. If the flop doesnt actually give you much, just check, and
check FAST. If he raises, fold. If you have trips, say, make sure you do the exact same
raise with the exact same SPEED.
Hope that he goes all-in, call his ass, and give him the Oops.
Better, if he was doing another bluff, and has absolutely NOTHING, say a Q4 os
that hadnt paired the board, you just have to berate him. Something like, I usually go
all-in with that too. Or, Nice hand. You do realize that Q and 4 arent connected
right?
I dont mean to condone being an ass, but if someone is using this defense and
gets caught playing nothing cards, they deserve the ass-chewing. Also, any way you can
help them tilt, the better. Just expect BIG raises from them from now on. They will be
trying to put you out. Just be ready with another good hand.
I cannot put enough emphasis on the SPEED of doing these actions. You have to
do the same thing over and over. Once you beat one of these guys, and they actually see
what you had, they will be more inclined to fold pre-flop.
So, once you have them in your pocket, it may get tempting to just raise
regardless of what you have. Start raising with 45os and such. Dont do it. Let them see
you fold a hand every so often.
Granted, it is a crap hand because you would raise if its decent, but they dont
know that. The more crap hands you fold, the more they will think that you are only
raising with good hands. Which is somewhat true.
You want them to think you have a good hand, or good enough, every time. You
CANT do this, unfortunately, against the all-in maniac raiser. If you see the maniac
raiser raise a couple times or more, you know he cant always be doing it with decent
hands. So, you have to pick your spots.

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This may mean you will be folding a lot more hands, including the blinds. That
stinks, but what are you going to do? Call his all-in with 94os and HOPE he has worse
cards? If he doesnt, are you ready to be done with the game? Bide your time. Doubleup. Berate. This is especially true in the 4-man game.

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ACTING!
There is a time to delay though. I emphasize over and over in this writing the
need to do everything fast in the end game. The ONLY time you dont is when you
actually have something.
Im not talking about AA or KK here. Im talking about when you have done
your normal raise to steal, he calls, and you flop a monster! Whether it is trips, or a full
house, or maybe a straight or flush, you have to now act to get him to throw all his chips
in.
Since you have been raising and calling so fast all the time, and now you are
hesitating, your opponent always assumes you arent sure about your hand. This goes for
every part of the game, not just end game.
How long do you have to hesitate? I usually wait until the game, at PartyPoker,
starts beeping. Usually about a full 5 or 10 count. Any more, and hell assume you
stepped away or werent paying attention. Then I put in my bet. Or, in the case of
flopping the nuts, I check.
I really play it like I am apprehensive about putting any more chips in. If he is
raising, it is just perfect. He raises, delay, delay, delay, and call. Next card. He raises
again. Delay. Call. After the river card, if he hasnt put all his chips in, you are
REALLY going to have to sell out. Wait, wait, wait, and then make an all-in bluff at it.
Hopefully he calls, and hes out, or youve doubled up.
In a recent game, I was dealt K9 suited. A pretty decent hand for playing the end
game. I, of course, raise over the top and he calls. Flop comes Q 9 4 with no flush
possible. I have 9s. I bet. He calls. Turn is a 9. I have trips. I bet. He raises. I call.
River is a 9. I have the Nuts.
How am I going to get him to put his chips in? Most people WILL NOT believe
there is four of a kind out there. There rarely is when there are 3 on the board.
I, of course, dont bet right away. I delay until the thing starts beeping, then I put
in a bet that will leave me some cash left over if Im wrong. WHY?? Why not just go
all-in?? Ill tell you.
With four of a kind, I dont expect him to call. I am hoping he has the full house
and will call, but I dont want to scare him off. So, I delay a long time so as to imply that
I am wondering if my hand will be good enough. Then, when I finally decide to play, I
put in a bet that is not all-in.

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I want to imply that, if Im wrong and my bluff gets called, and I dont win, that
I will still have some chips left to play. If you put all your chips in, a LOT of times it
means you are serious and the other guy will fold it up. Especially if he has a marginal
hand.
But, to make a LARGE bet, and leave a little bit left behind, and not betting
enough to put the other guy all-in, it implies that it is just a bluff, and you DONT want
him to call. Your contingency plan is being short-stacked in the event of him actually
calling and beating your nothing hand.
He played it exactly as I thought he would. He was the large stack at that point.
He saw my delay as weakness, and he saw through my pathetic bluff bet. As any good
player should do with the large stack, he called, and RAISED to make sure I had to go
all-in.
This is EXACTLY what I wanted, and what I was trying to sell. I sold it
perfectly. I was not bluffing, of course, went all-in, and revealed my nut 9s. After I
doubled up, I wrote to him and said I didnt think hed call. He said he had the Q for a
boat 9s full of Qs.
I asked him if he liked the delay. He said he loved it.
This is acting. You have to ACT when you are pretty sure you have a winner, or
you have the nuts, and you want to get paid. This is especially true in the end game. You
play fast, raise fast, call fast, and fold fast.
Then WHAM! You slow down.
You show a sign of weakness. In all your previous hands, it gets to you, you
instantly raise over the top. He thinks, and then calls. Flop comes, he checks, you
instantly raise. You are saying, I raised pre-flop, and now Ive seen the flop and its
made my hand better, so Im raising again. What dont you understand? It is at this
point he usually folds.
But then, you catch a great flop, and your opponent sees you slow down. Check it
around, or raise with much deliberation. He sees you as weaker than the other hands and
tries to exploit it. This acting works just tremendously against the all-in raiser.
You can act pre-flop also. Say you actually get AA or KK and are in the SB.
Take your time, delay it pretty good, and then just call the BB. A lot of times, since
youve been raising every time, they will bet back into you, just to steal your increased
blind money and not have to see a card.

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Hopefully, they will raise back all-in. Or, they may just want to see the flop for
free. You see the flop, and check. See how long they will keep checking for. Hopefully,
you will catch your trips AND bait them. Remember to delay on every decision.
More often than not though, if I have AA or KK, I play them exactly like any
other decent hand. I raise over the top and hope for a call, thus doubling the amount I am
going to make. Then I bet on the flop if I dont get trips. He will usually fold. So, at
least, I secure double his BB investment.
With only calling to the BB, and not getting trips on the flop, and not raising, and
slow-playing it, you are welcoming a chance to get beat. He could have caught two-pair.
Or he might on the turn or the river.
Pre-flop, every hand has hope. I raise pre-flop, even with good hands, preying on
that hope. Seeing the flop either increases confidence, or eliminates hope. If the hope is
gone, he wont put any more chips into the pot. If he catches something, you dont want
that either.
More often than not, when they call the raise pre-flop with their Q 4os, the flop
wont help them, and they will fold to your raise. That is why you need to raise most
often pre-flop. Get them to put in twice as much. That way, when the flop comes with 2
over cards, they are folding to any bet.
Gigging them for twice as much pre-flop is a tried and true way of winning the
end game.

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RULE #2: DONT BE 4th

In a one-table SNG, only 3 spots are paid. You DO NOT want to be the 4th guy.
Sometimes you cant help it, as you are too short stacked, or you take a bad beat and are
out. But, for the most part, you can control it.
As long as the blinds dont totally take your stack away, you should play MUCH
tighter. You want to steal the blinds as described above. Just be VERY AWARE of
where everyones chip count is, and when the blinds are going to go up again.
1200 chips is a lot of looks with a 300 blind, but not nearly as many at a 400
blind. Especially, if you are going to raise over the top. In that case, you had better be
sure. I made a mistake today and finished 4th. I will tell you where I slipped up, so that
hopefully, you can avoid a big mistake.
4-man game. I am UTG with 1200 chips. Theres an ass to my left on the button.
He has repeatedly re-raised me to all-in, and then I fold, so I am going to play tighter
hands.
He has 3200 or so, as does the guy to my right in the BB. The player in the SB
only has 260 chips. In order to finish in the money, all I have to do is wait for the guy in
the small blind to lose a hand. With 1200 chips, I have been raising over the top with the
300 blind. This has been working well. I was a bit distracted, and this is how the end
played out.
Initially, I did not notice the blinds go to 200/400. As I said, I was distracted. I
got Q5 suited hearts. A pretty good hand to steal with. Not really paying attention, I hit
the button that said, RAISE TO 800. So I have 800 in there and 400 in the bank.
The ass to my left calls, both of the blinds fold, as expected. This drops the guy
in the SB to 60 chips. Flop comes, Kc, As, 7c. 2 over cards and NONE of my suit. Ive
got no way to win and I definitely dont want to go all-in, so I check.
The ass to my left bets 400 to put me all-in, so I fold. Deal comes; I notice that
Im all-in as the blinds are 400! I get K 10os and figure Id be raising with this anyway.
Guy to my left folds, the guy with 60 chips folds, of course. The guy in the SB calls. I
REALLY wanted him to fold as I was just starting to realize what a mistake I had made
last hand.
We flip over.

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I have K10. He has 77. I have 6 outs plus the straight draw and 5 cards to beat
him. If you read the above how to play pairs JJ-22 you know that this is almost
EXACTLY the situation you want with a pocket pair. One-on-one.
Better yet if I would have had, say 6 3os. I would NEED 2 cards.
As it was, I only needed one. Of course, I didnt get it.
Was I mad that I didnt make a pair of either my K or my 10 in 5 cards? Of
course, but I knew the odds of it happening werent good. I was more tilted that I
finished 4th because of my own error the previous hand.
With the Q5 suited, I made the raise because I was distracted and didnt really
notice that the guy in the SB had only 60 chips, and I didnt notice the blinds had gone
up.
What could have distracted me? Well, I play a LOT during the day, and Im
watching my kids. My 4 month-old daughter had just started screaming, so I was
changing her poopy diaper and trying to play at the same time. Is this an excuse? Of
course it is. I doubt ANY of the top poker players play with the kind of distractions I
have to endure. But its still an excuse.
In the same situation, undistracted, I should have known the blinds went up to
400. I also should have known that the guy to my left would call, or even raise me, as he
had for quite some time and Id never called him, as it was always an all-in call. I also
would have noticed that the SB was down to 60 chips.
But, say I did raise and everything happened the same, and the ass to my left
raised me all-in post-flop. I was probably beaten, but I hadnt called his raise but once all
game. There were still a couple more cards to come. I could have gotten running 5s,
running Qs or 10 J and probably had the nuts or tied for them.
I am thinking I should have called instead of letting my fate be decided by a hand
I had no control over. Turns out, I got a good hand, and, in my opinion, got a bit unlucky
to not beat the pair of 7s, but you cant win with a 25% draw all the time.
What I should have done was fold the Q5 suited.
In that same situation, with someone so close to being eliminated and putting me
in the money, I should have hit fold. I would have been down to 800 chips. Then, the SB
comes. If I dont get AA, KK, QQ, or AK, I should fold it down. Im then down to 600
chips.
Now the guy with 60 chips is in the BB and hes all in. Again, I shouldnt bet
unless I have AA, KK, QQ, or AK. If I did have those hands, I should raise them to put
myself all-in. Anything else, fold it up. Wait until the guy with 60 chips gets eliminated.
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Thats a little extreme. I suppose Id play AQ, AJ, A10, and any of them suited.
You just dont want to make a mistake. Fold just about everything down until you are in
3rd place. Id hate to play AJ, have two Ks come on the flop, and be eliminated in 4th
place. Or even one K would do it. Folding is the best way to stay out of harms way.
By folding the Q5, I would have had a 400 chip look at my K10. The guy in the
SB would have called, maybe raised with his 77. It would be tough NOT to call a raise
with K10, but in this situation, with the guy with 60 chips watching and out of the hand,
it would take DISCIPLINE not to lose any more chips. If the guy with 77 only calls, I
should check, check, check. Unless I grab high pair, it isnt worth the risk to bet. So, I
lose that hand.
I am in the SB, paying 200. My stack is now 600 chips. Unless I have a top 5
hand, fold it down. The next hand, I am on the button.
Mr. 60-chips is now in the BB. If both of the other guys call, the MOST he can
get out of the hand with is 180 chips. As long as I dont call, he will be ALL-IN in the
SB also. That is IF he wins while in the BB. So he will have to win back-to-back all-ins,
or tie them, to stay in contention.
Again, if I have a top 5 hand, I should go ahead and play, as Ill need the chips to
stay alive against the other large stacks. But anything less is introducing the risk of
taking 4th, and being out of the money.
If I dont get a top 5 hand, I should just watch. I have 600 chips and am on the
button. If the guy with 60 chips wins while in the BB, he will then be in the SB, also allin. I can watch that hand too.
If he gets lucky and does win back to back through the blinds, I have a problem. I
will be forced out by the time the small blind gets to me, as I have 600 chips left.
Hopefully, I will get a good hand and be able to stave elimination off for another
round. It could happen. It may not. At this point, I am finally going to need some luck.
I can take a look at my big blind hand, and if its good, play it. Or, I can always
fold it and try to win with my small blind hand, sight unseen.
This being said, how many hands have I seen since I decided to fold the Q5
suited? There was the K10os. My button hand. My UTG hand. My big blind hand, and
my small blind hand. Five hands.
Hopefully I will have caught something decent in those five hands. You just have
to know your situation. Finishing in the money is better than finishing out of it. Dont be
fourth. Do everything you can to not be fourth.
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BONUS:
What I Have Learned from the Super System1
Doyle Brunsons book, Super System, is a great read that has been around, in
various forms, since 1978. This is an excellent book to learn how to play ALL forms of
poker. Doyles section on No Limit Holdem is the section I have read a few times. Here
are my thoughts on Doyles System and how it compares to what Ive written above.
In Super System, Doyle writes how much he likes small suited connectors. He
says that 87s is his favorite hand for No-limit Holdem. If you notice above, 87s is a
group 7 hand. Doyle says hell most always play this hand, and a lot of the time, hell
raise with it. Since reading this in his book, it has become one of my favorites also.
Heres why.
87s is a good hand to raise with, because nobody can put you on it, and its easy
to get away from. What does a pre-flop raise mean, most-times? You have Ax, Kx, or a
pair of some sort. Thats what I assume of a pre-flop raiser.
So say Doyle raises 87s(spades) pre-flop, and say, he gets 2 callers. Flop comes
Qc, 9s, 5s. This is a pretty broken board to the other two players. Most of them will
assume Doyle has Ax, and the guy holding A Qs (hearts) has to think he has high pairhigh kicker.
With a 9 and a 5 on the board, because of Doyles raise, he has to believe those
two cards are blanks except for the possible flush. In this situation, Doyle HAS to bet
again. He has 17 outs.
When the 6h comes on the turn and an Ah comes on the river, I imagine the guy
with AQ will be all-in. Then Doyle just takes all his money. 87s is a great hand to win a
LOT of money with, or lose a little.
Same situation. Raised 87s(clubs) pre-flop. Two callers. Flop, As, Kh, 10d.
With high cards in the mix, it is easy to get away from the hand. You know someone
made their pair, possibly two. With no chance at a flush, this hand is pretty worthless and
EASY to get away from. This goes for all small connectors, suited or not.
Besides playing the small suited connectors, Doyle teaches how to play
AGGRESIVELY all the time. He shows you how betting aggressively will give you the
upper hand over time.

Doyle Brunson, Super System: A Course in Power Poker (New York: Cardoza Publishing, 2002) 419514.

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His quote, If you are going to call you might as well bet. pretty much
summarizes he style of play. Other players will fear you, and when they do get a hand
that is better than yours, they will show you by betting aggressively. Their aggressive
betting will save you money in the long run.
He also shows you the correct way to bluff.

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Bluffing, Doyles Way

In Super System, Doyle never advocates just straight-out bluffing. That is,
playing nothing hands and trying to fool everyone else with his raises. This is
foolishness. What he does talk about is playing your position and the table.
Doyle has an entire section devoted to what he does, and why, with small
connectors. Most of it is bluffing. I found this section shocking, as I wasnt doing ANY
of it. What follows, is Doyles situational bluffing with small suited connectors.
Mr. Brunson writes of what he does in every situation with the small suited
connectors. He breaks it down into three parts. What he does when the flop:
Completely misses his hand
Gets a little help
Gets a LOT of help
When he gets some help on the flop, he usually bets it quite fast. Since I am
mentioning his bluffing, Ill deal with when he completely misses his hand.

Complete Miss
What Doyle decides to do when he completely misses his hand with small suited
connectors is TOTALLY dependent on what happened pre-flop and what his position is.
The example in Super System has him holding 76s(diamonds) and the flop
comes AAK with no diamonds. Before I read his book, I would just get out of the hand,
regardless of position. Not Doyle. Heres how he advises how to play it.
From almost any position, if he had been the raiser pre-flop, hed just flat-out
raise again. He figures, if somebody else got a part of the flop, they would re-raise him,
and hed be out.
More often that not, he thinks, most folks will fold to the post-flop raise because
Doyle had RAISED pre-flop, gotten 2 aces, and raised again.
This is bluffing, but it is also good strategy.
This situation is if Doyle RAISED pre-flop. If he had just called the big blind,
most often, hell just check, and check. If anyone bets at it, hes out. In a late position,
he says he still may raise if its checked to him twice, which would be a bluff.
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In the above situation, if an opponent calls his raise, hes kind of in a pickle and
needs to decide if the guy is drawing i.e. doesnt have a made hand. Most often hell just
check it out and give up the pot.
You have to figure out the REASON he called your bet post-flop. In order to
keep making stabs at the pot, you have to BELIEVE that he is drawing toward
something. If you believe that, then you have to SELL that you have the Ace or the
King.
If, after the turn card, you still think he is still drawing toward a hand, then you
HAVE to bet again. Think about it. If you actually DID have an ace, and you raised preflop, and raised after 2 aces came up, why would you stop raising after the turn card
unless that card MAY complete a straight or a flush for the other guy.
If the 4th card is a total blank, you pretty much have to bet. If he calls again, you
had better hope you put him on the correct hand before you are all-in on the river.
When you COMPLETELY miss your hand with the small suited connectors, you
want to win with your bluff ON THE FLOP. You dont want to see any more cards.
You want to win it right there. You want to be seen as the aggressor.
This is where putting people on hands is a big factor. If you are in an SNG with
10 people at the table, in the same situation, I would put the guy on having an Ace or
King and get out after I was called on my bluff bet after the flop. Most people will call a
pre-flop raise with an A or a K in their hand. The more people at the table, the more
likely one or more of them have an A or K.
A quote from Doyle, You might find it difficult to continue betting your hand
when you know you dont have anything. You may think it takes a lot of courage to do
that. And it does. But, all it really is, is good Poker.

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Betting, and the Super System

Doyle Brunson is a legend in the No-Limit Holdem arena. Hes won the WSOP
twice. The Super System has been called, the greatest Poker book ever written.
Nobody can take away any of Doyle Brunsons achievements. I highly recommend
reading Super System if you get a chance.
That said, his book, and my book, are two totally different species. Doyle has
mainly played in traveling ring games where people come and go as they please. If you
are out of cash, you just hit the cash machine or pull some more out of your wallet. Or
get more credit from the house.
MY book has been written for Sit-n-go games, Satellites, and tournaments. This
kind of poker game has everyone pay the same buy-in and gives everyone the same
amount of chips. When you are out of chips, you are out of the game.
THIS is the kind of poker you see on television. Tournament Poker, I feel, is the
way to have the most fun playing poker.
ALL of Doyles methods do transfer over to the tournament games in some way.
No-Limit Holdem is No-Limit Holdem. In ring games, the blinds dont go up. You can
sit there and bide your time and play the best hands, then really try to score when you get
them. Much more so than Limit Holdem.
But, in tournament No-Limit, the blinds are always going up. If you dont win
more chips, the blinds themselves will knock you out of the tournament, or SNG. The
tournament format makes you protect the chips you have, and forces you to try to double
up over and over.
Doyles betting system is GREAT for the type of game he plays, and it can be
used at every level of No-Limit Holdem. I say it CAN be used. There is really only
ONE problem I see in tournament games with Doyles betting system.
What Doyle calls a reasonable bet, is a bet the size of the pot. This may be
great for his game when the funds are only limited by your pocketbook, but in a
tournament game, especially early, everyone has the same amount of chips. When you
lose those chips, you are done. Heres an example.
You are in a 10 person SNG at a $10+1 table at PartyPoker. Everyone starts with
800 chips and the blinds are 10/15. You are UTG, and are dealt the 76s example used
above. You call the 15 chips, as you are UTG, and EVERYONE behind you calls also.
Now there are 150 chips in the pot.

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If you get a little help on the flop, say 7-2-3 flops, you may want to make a bet as
you have high pair. Doyles reasonable bet would be the size of the pot, or 150 chips. I
can guarantee you, if you make a 150 chip bet from the 3rd spot with everyone in, you
WILL get some folks out of the hand. That is a fact. Unfortunately, with 10 people in,
the odds are that you will get re-raised, or called by more than one person.
With 2 callers, there are 600+ chips in the pot. If, after the turn or the river, you
decide to make a reasonable bet, you will basically be all-in. You had better hope you
have the best hand, but without more help on 4th or 5th, you are probably out of the game.
Doyles system of betting IS very aggressive. He always wants to win BIG pots.
Generally speaking though, his style of betting doesnt work for SNGs until later in the
game.
Will a 150-chip bet on the flop deter some folks from seeing the turn? You BET
it will. Of course, a 75-chip bet would probably do the same thing. (1/2 the pot) Or a
60-chip bet. (4x the BB) But you do want action, and you want to get the most value for
your hand, every hand. You do this by betting and staying aggressive. HOW aggressive
is the question.
Your 150-chip bet will label you as a maniac in many other players minds.
Thats fine. You DO want them to fear you and NOT bet with you until they have
something. They are easy to avoid then. But, most likely, everyone will fold that hand,
and you collect the 150 chips.
Not many folks will want to risk almost 25% of their stack unless they really have
something. And thats another way to bet. The % of your stack. Maybe your pair of 7s
was worth 10% of your stack to gamble with. Then that would be an 80-chip bet.
By putting in 150 chips, you are pretty much saying that you DONT want to play
the hand anymore and would like to pick up the chips and move to the next hand. This
size of bet, even though sanctioned by Mr. Brunson, can be seen a lot of the time as a
blatant bluff. You only bet 1x the pot, but you bet 10x the BB. You may be re-raised to
all-in. That is very likely.
If you are going to follow Doyles instructions and make reasonable bets like
this, you have to be prepared to be all-in. If you put in your 150 chips saying, My top
pair 7s is going to be good enough to win this hand. you have to be prepared to throw
the rest of your chips in there to prove it. Especially at the lower buy-ins.
By betting the 150, everyone isnt going to instantly assume youve made twopair. The guy holding A7s could see your oversize bet (due to being 10x the BB. Doyle
calls this a reasonable bet) as a bluff, and raise you all-in. He has high-pair, high-kicker.
Now you have a decision to make.
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If you call his all-in, you are down to ONLY the 6s helping you, while an Ace
does not come up. 3 cards (the three sixes) out of 45 (52-your 2-his 2-flop 3). You have
two 6.67% draws at it. Not a very good percentage to stay in the tournament. Lets see
your other option. Folding.
If you fold after having thrown in almost 25% of your stack post-flop, you will be
seen as a bluffer. Being seen as a bluffer can definitely work in your favor because you
will get action next time. You are also down to less than 650 chips. I would advise
though, after backing down, the next time you are going to make a reasonable bet,
make sure you are willing to go all-in with it if need be. After the other players see you
cower, they will continuously try to put you all-in.
Have a good hand, and take their money.
The betting system Mr. Brunson uses is aggressive and IS designed to get people
out of the pot after the flop. His aggressiveness allows him to pick up small pots
continuously. It also makes other people play back at him when they actually have
something, so Doyle can avoid costly mistakes a lot of the time. This system works
VERY well in ring games.
In a ring game, if Doyle makes his move, puts it all-in, gets called and loses, he
can always get more cash, put it in play, and try to win it back. Unfortunately, in a
tourney, when you are all-in and lose, you are done. This is why his betting system needs
to be revamped for tournament play.
So, how SHOULD one bet? Aggressively. Always be betting. By betting, you
create action. Other players fear your aggression, and eventually, only play the best
hands back at you. This saves you money in the long run. If you KNOW they will only
bet against you with good hands, you just have to know if YOUR hand is good enough.
Pre-flop raises should be 2x-4x the big blind. After the flop, your aggressiveness,
and the amount you raise, should dictate what you are trying to do. Do you want to force
people out of the pot, or keep them in? Do you only want 1 or 2 callers? As Doyle says,
most of the game is played after betting on the flop. Thats where the money changes
hands. Thats where you win most pots.
As Ive said before, I like to limp-in to a LOT of pots at the lower blinds. If you
catch something good, trips, two-pair, flush/straight draw, it is well worth the initial
investment as you may end up breaking someone.
In games with better players, I DONT get to limp-in very many hands. There is
most ALWAYS a raise pre-flop. At a 10-person SNG, there are just too many possible
hands out there every deal. You WANT to raise pre-flop to eliminate all the borderline
hands. You dont want to get beat because someone limped-in J7os.
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But, if you raise too little, too many people will stay in the hand. Plus, they will
feel they are more pot-committed having put in, say, 2x the big blind. With more
people in the pot, it also skews the pot odds to keep more people in.
So, at the lower blinds, I would say the MINIMUM you should raise, pre-flop, is
3x the BB. So, if its a 15 blind, you should put in 60 chips. Its actually only a 2x
raise, but it will deter more people than just raising to 30 chips. It should go without
saying that you ONLY want to do this with hands you WANT to play. Good hands. Bad
hands, you still want to limp-in or fold.

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My Conclusions of the Super System

After reading Doyle Brunsons book, Super System, my outlook on the game of
No-Limit Holdem changed. I took away three main points that were illustrated above.
1) Play Small Suited-Connectors
a) Playing small suited-connectors is Doyle Brunsons bread and butter for No-Limit
Holdem. Most of these hands dont show up on the Hand Groupings charts, but
are definitely worth playing. Doyle made a career out of them.
2) Bet Aggressively
a) Nothing will make you more money in the game of No-Limit Holdem than
constantly being the aggressor. Once the other players fear your aggressiveness,
they will just give you pots.
3) Bluff in Betting Situations
a) If you raise pre-flop and totally miss your hand, you dont necessarily have to
give up the pot. Raise again and see what happens. If someone DOES have the
hand you are representing, they will usually, and foolishly, show you they have it,
and allow you out of the pot anyway.
These bits of wisdom helped change a lot of my strategy in No-Limit Holdem,
and thats why I passed them on to you. Although I disagree with the DEGREE of
Brunsons betting aggressiveness, at least in early tournament and SNG games, his
beliefs are easily adapted to any no-limit game.

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Conclusion
Thanks for reading my book. You should feel you are a much better Holdem
player now. The End Game section is the section that will save you the most time in
learning and make you the most money.
Texas Holdem is a pretty simple game. It does have many nuances that arent
obvious to the beginning player. With the information I have given you, I hope you
become wildly profitable and kickback some to me. Or win a WSOP and tell everyone
starting out to read this manual.
I will go over the basic points I have given you, and if you have missed any of it,
go back and re-read it. These are the rules of the game, the important points, and need
to be followed EVERY TIME you sit down to play. Whether an SNG, a Home Game, a
Ring Game, or a tournament, these points will always give you a better chance at success.

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Basic Rules to Playing Winning Holdem

Play only games you are comfortable with the stakes. If you feel you have too
much money at risk, you wont play your hands correctly, or aggressively.
Play only good starting hands.
Raise your good stating hands pre-flop.
Limp-in with bad, or mediocre hands ONLY at the low blinds and ONLY play the
hand if you get trips, 2-pair, or a 4-card flush or straight draw.
Play your position. It is much smarter to raise pre-flop from a late position than
from an early position. From a late position or, even better, the button, you can
play worse hands and get away from them with less expense.
Know your hand groupings, but also keep an eye out for small suited connectors.
You can win BIG pots with the connectors.
ALWAYS beware of a flush. Especially if playing at PartyPoker. If 5 or more
people are in to see the flop, odds are ONE of them will be drawing to the flush.
Bet aggressively with good hands. BET YOUR HANDS!
Try to win most hands after the flop.
With only 4 or 5 players at the table, start playing the END GAME. Raise, and
play, everything quicker and consistently.
In an SNG, DONT BE 4TH!

Thanks again for taking the time to read my book. I hope that I have helped you
get a better grasp of the inner-workings of Holdem. If you internalize all that I have
written here, YOU WILL be a GOOD Holdem player.
More importantly, your game will be honed for tournament play. Partypoker.com
has a couple of $5+1 tournaments every day. The one I play most often is the 1:45AM
Central Time game. They usually get close to 1000 participants and the winner gets
around $1000. They pay up to 125-150 spots most of the time.

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Generally, it takes over 4 hours to finish one of these tournaments. I finished in

the top 70 the last time I played and it took 3+ hours to finish there. You will NOT find a
better, cheaper tournament to learn how to play Holdem and see the amount of hands
you will, for a cheaper price.
If you ultimately want to play in the WSOP someday, you have to practice your
tournament play. Ring game experience is good but it just isnt the same. To be good at
tournament Holdem, you have to practice tournament Holdem. Thats why I advocate
playing the Sit-N-Gos as I do.
I use the SNGs as my moneymakers. Its a LOT easier to beat 9 other players
than 19 or 29 or 999. If you want more of a tournament feel without having to sit and
play for hours, play a two or three-table SNG. You will still get the experience of other
players, or yourself, moving to different tables at various times, but you will only still
have to invest an hour to an hour and a half of your time to win.
Whatever stakes you choose, and whatever style of play, whether Ring Games,
Home games, or SNGs/Tourneys, I wish you the best of luck in all your Holdem
endeavors. It is a FUN game. Playing it correctly makes it more fun because you win
more often.
Winning is fun!
If you feel this book has helped you, I would gladly accept any testimonials at my
email of august@onlinepokerbook.net The best testimonials will most likely be added
to the website.
If you have any further questions about anything contained in this book, or
otherwise Holdem related, email me. I will be glad to help in any way that I can!

84

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www.onlinepokerbook.net
August OMeara - All Rights Reserved

Online No-Limit Texas Holdem Poker for Beginners

____________________________________________________________________

Bibliography
All references that site Super System in this work is referring to Doyle
Brunsons book of the same name:
Brunson, Doyle. Super System: A Course in Power Poker. New York:
Cardoza Publishing, 2002

85

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www.onlinepokerbook.net
August OMeara - All Rights Reserved

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Texas Holdem Secrets

By Rory Monahan a.k.a. Roy Rounder

Can You Really Make A Living Playing Poker?

It's no secret.
Within the last 12 months, poker has literally EXPLODED into perhaps the
world's fastest-growing hobby. Some people even say that poker is "America's
New National Pastime." But unlike baseball, you can cash in on the new
popularity of poker. That's right. YOU can make huge amounts of MOOLA by
mastering the game of Texas Holdem.
Every time I sit down to play, I meet a new player who saw the World Series of
Poker and now thinks he is a real player. Lol.
Of course, I don't MIND these players giving me their money. With the newfound
popularity of Holdem, there are thousands of FISH out there, and by mastering
Texas Hold'em, you can become a very happy SHARK.
But can you really make a LIVING from playing poker? Is the game really
something that can pay your mortgage, car payment, electric bill, and keep food
on the table?
Absolutely!
In fact, it also can pay your college tuition, pay off your loans, and give you the
freedom you've always wanted, all while doing something you truly love and
enjoy.
With the explosion of Texas Holdem onto the world scene, I have been able to
make a comfortable living using only my poker skills. I own my own car,
consistently save for the future, have extra spending "dough," and I am looking
to move to a new home...and I don't even have a "real" job.
Unfortunately, no matter how many "fish" there are, you are never going to
make any money if you are one of them.
So, if you want to take advantage of this incredible opportunity and you want to
start making big money playing poker, you are going to have to master the
game of Texas Holdem. Period.
Now, this doesn't mean that you should go out, buy a brand new Corvette, tell
your boss where he can put his reports, empty your bank account, and hit the
poker tables.
Texas Holdem takes time and patience to master. But, the good news is, you
can dramatically SHORTCUT your poker education. My e-book, "Texas Holdem
Secrets" is a complete "tell all" course of all my tips, tricks, and lessons about

Texas Holdem poker, so that YOU can immediately get started on mastering the
game and getting to the "next level."
The SECRET to Poker
Let me ask you something.
Have you ever played poker with someone who seemed to CONSISTENTLY catch
lucky cards, time after time after time? I'm not talking about any luck. I'm
talking about the kind of luck where your opponent flops a boat, gets dealt
pocket rockets, catches a flush on the river and so on.
Have you ever found yourself wondering: "Jeez, he can't POSSIBLY catch another
hand like that, it's simply statistically impossible!" Yet the luck CONTINUES,
until he rakes in all the chips, and empties your pockets. And then you go home
for the night. And you rationalize to yourself that the only reason you lost was
because your opponent was LUCKY and that you just couldn't seem to catch any
good cards. Am I right?
If you've ever been through this, you're not alone my friend. Far from it.
Because THAT is exactly what poker is all about. If the odds played out the way
they're "supposed to" every time, poker wouldn't be fun at all.
Indeed, over time, eventually the odds will "catch up" and "even out". If you
caught a cold run of cards last night, you may get hot tonight. Then again, you
may not. So, here's the million dollar question:
Is it possible to somehow "control" the unpredictable nature of poker odds?
I have the answer.
And here it is...
No! Of course not! Are you crazy?!
This is the mistake amateurs make. They catch some good cards, win a few
times, and then think they're "poker naturals". Then, they watch Rounders;
maybe buy a chip set and some "casino" cards and start fantasizing about
making it to the final table of WSOP. THEN, these players catch a BAD streak of
cards. They run into some bad beats. They get beat by other amateurs.
And you want to know what they do after that? THEY WHINE ABOUT BEING
UNLUCKY! But they forget the cardinal rule. And that is, TEXAS HOLDEM POKER
IS NOT ABOUT LUCK!
This is so important, it's worth repeating: TEXAS HOLDEM POKER IS NOT ABOUT
LUCK! Got it?
Now, here is the REAL secret about Texas Holdem poker:

Instead of thinking about odds and luck, you should be thinking about HOW
YOU CAN LEVERAGE THE POKER ODDS AND LUCK IN YOUR FAVOR. Here's what I
mean - I've broken it down into four categories.
I call these the "4 Stages of Momentum."

Stage 1: HOT STREAK

This is when you catch tons of great cards and "lucky" draws.

Stage 2: CATCHING COLD

This is when you keep getting "scraps" and bad draws.

Stage 3: TILT
This is when you start acting crazy and making poor decisions...usually
because of a previous bad beat.

Stage 4: READ MACHINE

This is when you've got a fantastic read on your opponents and know
what to play in each situation. (This, of course, is the stage you want to
be in.)

Okay. Now, back to the secret.

When you're playing Holdem, you WILL go through each of these 4 stages of
momentum at different times. Sometimes you'll be hot. Sometimes you'll be
cold. Sometimes you'll be on tilt. And sometimes you'll have a great read on
the other players. And just as importantly, the OTHER PLAYERS at the table will
each go through these 4 stages as well.
The secret is to learn how to CAPTIALIZE on these "natural" forces of
momentum. When you catch a great streak of cards, be thankful for your good
fortune and start PLAYING MORE AGGRESSIVELY.
This will keep the momentum on your side and put other players on TILT.
Control the tempo and speed of the game and take on the characteristics of the
"table leader". Other players will start saying, "Check to the better" and will give
YOU the power in the game.
You'll get opportunities to see cheap flops when you're weak, and raise the
prices when you're strong. THIS is how you get hot and STAY hot.
Now, what about when you start catching COLD cards? What then? Catching a
cold streak of cards can quickly zap away your chip stack. To prevent this from
happening, here's what you do:
First, be AWARE that the cold streak is happening. Become conscious of what's
going on and notice which players at the table are hot. Then, (this is important),
you must tighten up your playing style. Even though the odds are the same,

hands that you might play when you're HOT won't be the same as hands you
should play when you're COLD.
I know this sounds strange, but stay with me here. Some players, when they get
cold, start to loosen up their play, hoping to see more flops. Bad idea. Tighten
up, only play your good hands, and wait for the tides of luck to change back in
your favor.
And then there's TILT.
Tilt is the "cancer" of a poker player. If you go on tilt, just one bad decision can
ultimately lead to your losing the game. Tilt creates a negative momentum that
will lead you to lost pots and more bad luck. So how can you avoid tilt?
Well, since tilt is usually the result of a bad beat, you've got to BE AWARE OF
YOUR BEHAVIOR after a bad beat. Personally, any time I get a bad beat, I
instantly fold the next 5 hands or so (unless I've got a high pocket pair). It's
kind of like taking a break. This gives me the chance to cool off and "restart"
my thinking process.
The NATURAL behavior after a bad beat is to immediately start betting more
aggressively, in hopes of winning back the chips you just lost. Of course, that
will just hurt you further.
So when you feel "tilt" creeping into you, take a break and relax. Clear your
mind and start to mount a comeback.
There's another element to all of this that I haven't mentioned much, and that's
watching what stages the OTHER players are going through. When someone at
the table gets HOT, what do you normally do?
Most players feel BITTER and start to play AGAINST the guy who keeps getting
lucky. They want to beat him! Right? But, like we talked about earlier, the
secret to poker is NOT trying to take things into your own hands. The secret is
to LEVERAGE what's happening.
If someone else is hot, don't go up against them. Especially avoid trying to bluff
them or going heads up for a big pot (unless you've got a monster). Instead of
giving this lucky player a chance at winning your chips, MINIMIZE their luck.
Don't let them win too much. Make sense?
It's the same way with tilt. When you see someone on tilt, you DEFINITELY want
to take advantage of the situation. Make a large pre-flop raise and try to go
heads up with the guy on tilt. YOU want to be the one who wins all his chips.
After all, he's on tilt, so there's a good chance he's going to make a stupid bet.
The secret is to BE THE ONE TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF HIS BAD BETS. Try to
force him all in and win the rest of his stack. It's all about LEVERAGE, my friend.

So remember, the next time you play, here's how you can put into action what
you've just learned:
- Know the 4 stages of momentum (good cards, bad cards, good reads, and tilt)
and recognize what stage you're in at all times.
- Watch the other players at the table and know which stage of momentum
THEY'RE in.
- LEVERAGE each stage accordingly. Don't go heads up against someone who's
got luck on their side. Take a breather when you feel yourself going on tilt.
- Play tight when you've got a bad run of cards. And win as many chips as
possible when luck is on YOUR side.
Try out these concepts and watch your poker profits go up dramatically. Of
course, the 4 stages of momentum and the concept of leverage are just two
small pieces of the puzzle.
The Secret to Playing "Heads-Up" Poker
Everyone has a general strategy (whether it's conscious or not) that they use at
an eight-man table. Some players are tight; some loose, and some simply jump
from one strategy to another and keep their opponents guessing.
Well, we've been sending out newsletters for the last few months on the style of
play that we feel will help improve your game. And I certainly hope our
strategies and tactics have made you a stronger player. It seems as though most
of our email list sees an improvement in their game.
However, I keep receiving questions on how to play heads-up. So hopefully this
newsletter will help. Most players feel confident in their game until they play in
their local tournament only to finish SECOND because heads-up is a completely
different game. This seems to be where a lot of players find a flaw in their
game.
So here is an example of a solid heads-up strategy:
You've got the button and are dealt a 5-6 of spades. The blinds in the tourney
are $200-400 and you make it $800 to play. Why?
Because you can't just raise with your big hands. You have to mix up your play
and raise with a wide variety of hands. Just be smart about it and use your
positioning to your advantage.
Drew calls and the flop hits A, 9, 3, with no spades. He is 1st to act after the
flop and checks.

OK, now there is no doubt that we have to fire another bet and represent the ace
on the board. We're sitting on $30,000 in chips and decide to make a bet that
isn't going to hurt our stack too much.
We throw out a $1000 bet and Drew mucks his hand immediately. We flip over
our 5-6 for him to see. You do this for a few reasons. First, Drew could be the
type of player that will play on tilt when he knows that he has been bluffed.
Hopefully he is. Second, we will get calls with our REAL hands now that Drew
knows that we are a bluffer. Finally, were sending a message to Drew that this
is OUR GAME and that we are going to control the action.
Just make sure you don't hurt your stack too much when you get caught on one
of these bluffs. Even if you do get caught, don't be afraid of showing it. It will
pay off later.
A few hands go by and we're the big-blind and dealt pocket 7's. Drew limps-in
and we throw out a $1000 bet that Drew quickly calls. You can sense that he
may be a bit frustrated with your aggressive style of play. The flop hits A73 and
we are 1st to act.
Do we slow-play the hand and hope that Drew throws out a bet? No, we actually
want to make a bet that makes it LOOK as though we are trying to buy the pot,
so we throw out a $3000 bet.
We know that our bluff is still on Drew's mind. Plus, he called our pre-flop raise
so there is a good chance that he is holding an ace in his hand. Hopefully he is.
The hand plays out and you rake a large pot by betting the entire time. Drew
called every bet because he felt like you were bullying him. Again, this was SET
UP from the bluff that we showed a few hands earlier.
Drew wins the next few pots and we're dealt a 9-10 of diamonds. We've got the
button again so you make a $1000 pre-flop raise. Do we want Drew to call
here?
Who cares, 9-10 of diamonds isn't a bad hand. You may catch a good flop or
may steal another after the flop.
Drew actually goes over the top for $5000 more. We think for a while with no
intention of calling the raise. We just want to make Drew sweat a bit. Finally we
throw over our cards and say, "I can't call, I've just got suited connectors."
Once again, this lets Drew know that we will raise with a VARIETY of hands.
Now Drew is steaming. He was probably holding a monster like kings or aces
and expected our aggressive play to call his raise. Nope, we are not aggressive.
We are aggressively SMART.
We know when to muck a hand and when to play a hand.

The very next hand we're dealt pocket queens. Drew simply calls the small blind
and the action is on us. We make a $3000 pre-flop raise that we are sure Drew
will call.
This is where our 9-10 and 5-6 moves pay off. We are going to get a call out of
Drew with a mediocre hand. He calls and the flop hits J,9,3. The hand plays out
and we rake a very large pot.
A few hands later we look down to see a monster. Pocket aces. Drew calls the
small blind and the action is on us. We pound our fist against the table to check.
This isn't a bad strategy in a heads-up game. Your chances of being ran-down is
greatly reduced with just the 2 of you. Plus, we have been playing rather
aggressively and want to show weakness here.
The flop hits 9,2,K and Drew feels as though he has the upper-hand with his 910. He throws out a $1000 bet that we call. The turn is a 3, which doesn't put
anything scary on the board. There isn't really a draw out there. Drew is 1st to
act again and throws out a $2000 bet. We simply call.
We feel as though we have the best hand and are going to let Drew fire away.
The river card is an ace, which gives us our trips.
Drew fires a $5000 bet at us. We think for a while and then announce that we
are going to raise. "Im all in" as we push our entire stack into the middle. We
feel as though Drew will call this because he has half of his chips invested
already. Plus, it looks as though we are bullying again.
The rest is history.
Drew is so far off his game right now that it's like taking candy from a baby.
THAT, my friend, is how you have to play heads-up poker.
Mix up your style of play and try to frustrate your opponent. The best phrase for
it is PSYCHOLOGICAL WARFARE. You will find that it will throw them off their
game and it will benefit you. Give the strategy a try and let me know if it works
for you.
Master These Laws of Lucky Draws
Have you ever faced a situation where you needed just ONE MORE CARD to
complete a MONSTER hand?
Would you like to know PROVEN, time-tested methods that will allow you to
complete those "monster" hands more often?
And how to suck the MOST money out of your opponents when you catch these
cards?

If so, this can set you on the path to LAUNCHING your poker game to a brand
new level.
If you've ever invested any serious money into a pot, when a draw busts, it feels
like you just got kicked in the "nuts" (pun intended.)
I can't tell you how many times people have approached me to tell me that I am
the LUCKIEST person in the world, and how I must have SOLD MY SOUL to the
poker devils just to catch so many good cards.
I just laugh.
There have been countless hands when I had the nut flush draw or open-ended
straight draw, only to watch my hand go to the gutter. However, what
SEPARATES me from the players who insist it's "luck" is the fact that when I get
LUCKY I cash out.
And when I DON'T, I get out of the hand without losing many chips. To get a
good idea of your chances of catching a good draw, you need to know the odds
of getting a "make card."
(For those of you don't know, a "make card" is a card that basically COMPLETES a
hand. Example: If you had 7, 8, 10, J the "make card" would be a 9.)
If you flop an open-ended straight draw, there are 8 cards in the deck that can
give you your straight. An inside strait draw has only four "make cards," and a
flush draw can be completed with 9 different cards in the deck.
This means that you can invest more money into open-ended straight draws and
flush draws than you can "belly-buster" draws. (Belly-buster = inside straight)
This may seem obvious, but there are many players who chase inside straight
draws and end up wasting their chips in the process. Remember that when you
are on a straight or a flush draw, odds are that you will NOT complete it. So you
don't want to invest too many chips on the outside chance that you'll get lucky.
When I am in this kind of situation, I always want to get as many cheap cards as
possible. Let's say that you flop a nut-flush draw and the action checks around
to you. At this point, you don't know what anyone has. Some players would
make a strong bet in this situation to buy the pot. This is a bad idea because
when you are in this position, you need to see more cards in order to have a
hand worth betting on.
If you make a strong bet, you may find that one or more of the players were
slow-playing their cards. Now, a player with a solid hand makes a considerable
raise over your bet. Everyone else folds, but you decide to see another card with
your flush draw.

The turn doesn't help out at all. Now, your opponent makes an even larger bet
than before. You can either fold and cut your losses or call the big bet with the
roughly 20% chance you will catch a card. Neither option is very appealing.
If you call and the river still doesn't complete your hand, you are faced with the
same situation. Some players will make huge bets and raises to try to buy their
way out of a busted draw.
This can work, but often your opponents will not be scared out by a large bet on
the river unless you have been playing aggressively the entire hand. Now, look
back at your option to check before the turn card. If you checked, you get to see
the turn for free. You put no money in the pot, and you discover that the turn
wasn't going to help.
This time when your opponent makes a big bet after the turn, you see that the
odds of catching a make card don't merit a call, so you fold the hand without
losing many chips.
The difference between checking and betting before the flop means the
difference between getting out of a bad situation without losing many chips or
getting pot-committed and going home early. Any time that you are looking for
another card to complete your hand; you should always be looking for cheap
cards.
Warning: Some players think that they need to bet BIG to build up the pot when
they are on a draw so they can "make bank" when they catch their cards.
However, if the cost is $40, there will usually only be 2 players in the pot which
equals an $80 pot.
This is only a difference of $20 in pot size, but it saves YOU $30 right away.
Plus, you can always raise the pot after/if you complete the hand. Learning to
play hands when you need a make card is NOT EASY. But I'll tell you, it's really
what separates the FISH from the SHARKS.
And learning this one skill can help you win a LOT more tournaments and poker
games. When you learn techniques and strategies like this, people will start
approaching YOU and saying, "Hey, how do you get so lucky at the card table?"
Keep Your Opponents Guessing Blindly
From the second that you sit down at a table, your opponents will be sizing you
up. They will analyze your moves, dissect your bets, and look for your tells. If
you want to have any sustained success playing poker, you must learn how to
AVOID giving off these signals. Period.
To do this, you must cloak your movements and disguise your activities. You
must also learn how to FORCE other players to fold, even when they "know" they
have the best hand. Make other players "out-think" themselves by staying

unpredictable. These are 5 KEY strategies that you MUST employ at the poker
table every time you play.
These methods have been developed and refined over my 13-year poker career,
and if you use them properly, you will become virtually "unreadable."
STRATEGY #1: Vary Your Bets
I cannot believe the number of players who want to use the same bet structure
over and over again. If you want to be unpredictable, you must vary your
betting and raising patters as much as possible.
Imagine you are sitting at a table where a player gets stuck in the same betting
patterns. Now, lets say that he is dealt a large pocket pair. He leads out with a
large bet, exactly as he did in the past. Now you have a great read on him.
This kind of read can easily prevent you from losing a stack of your chips. It can
also keep you from getting any callers on YOUR good hands, and too many
callers on your bad ones.
STRATEGY #2: Keep Players Out Of Hands
The real mark of a great player is the ability to win dozens of small pots with
aggressive play. Forcing players out of small pots also ensures that your
opponents will see fewer of your cards. Every time that your opponents see
your cards, you will become a little bit more predictable. It is key that you play
very aggressively to keep yourself shrouded in mystery.
STRATEGY #3: Shift Styles Completely
If you watch poker games closely, the successful players will always be the ones
who change gears from aggressive to tight throughout the game. When you are
at a table, it is important that you mix up your betting patters for a given
hand...and then switch your OVERALL PLAYING STYLE between loose and tight
and loose and tight.
STRATEGY #4: In the Dark Plays
Using "in the dark" plays is a great way to confuse your opponents. When you
play in the dark, it is very hard for your opponents to get a good read on you.
When you make a move in the dark, your opponents will start to rethink their
moves.
Remember, since a player's FIRST instincts are usually RIGHT, you want to make
your competition second-guess their instincts.
STRATEGY #5: Never Show Your Cards

There are a lot of players who like to reveal their cards when they pull off a good
bluff. It's usually a big-headed gesture from the player trying to satisfy their
own giant ego.
If you're playing Texas Holdem to feel better about yourself, then be my guest;
show your cards. But if you're like me: playing Texas Holdem because you
LOVE THE GAME and YOU LOVE TO WIN; then DON'T show your cards.
When you show your cards, players will start to understand how you behave
when you bluff. No matter how hard you try, you will inevitably develop "playing
patterns."
It doesn't matter if you're Doyle Brunson or someone who just started playing
poker last week; the habits will form. These five strategies that we just
discussed will give you an EDGE in disguising your habits.
How to Take Advantage of Bad Players
The increase of poker popularity has led to a flood of fish that are just WAITING
for you to take their money. Seriously.
These fish are untalented, undisciplined, and lack the fundamental skills to
succeed in Texas Holdem. These players think that since they have seen a few
episodes of the World Poker Tour, they are poker pros.
If you want to make money playing Texas Holdem, you need to learn to take all
the money from these novices before they give it to someone else.
There are many ways that you can bankrupt the bad players at your table. These
methods are tested and proven and can give you an advantage over everyone
else at the table.
These methods include:
1. Fake Weakness
It seems that everyone over-estimates their own poker ability. Bad players
usually think they are one of the best players at any given table. This false
sense of ability will lead bad players to attempt to buy virtually EVERY pot.
This over-aggression makes weak players especially vulnerable to check-raises
and slow playing good cards. When you have the nuts, DON'T lead out with a
big bet (like you should against a good player), instead slow play the hand and
let the novice try to buy the pot.
2. Destroy Their Game Plan

Usually a novice's plan will depend on his ability to bluff effectively. If you are
able to remove a significant section of their stack, you will destroy their game
plan and put yourself on the fast track to the chip lead.
3. Show No Respect for Weak Bets
A bad player will fear losing all their chips on a mediocre hand. This means they
will often make small bets on the turn and river. Show ZERO respect for these
bets. Making a large raise over these weak bets will often scare away bad
players leaving you with the pot.
4. Face Bad Players "Heads Up"
Since good players and bad players require different strategies, try to force
other players out of hand before clashing with a weak player. Eliminating other
players will reduce the amount of possibilities you have to consider. This will
allow you to focus more on how to scare away weak players.
5. Always Have a Decent Hand
Even if you play your hand flawlessly, a bad player may call all your bets with
nothing but an Ace high. This is very frustrating, but very common. In fact, I
know many poker professionals who will not play against novices because they
are so difficult to bluff.
So, before you enter into a high-cost hand with a bad player, make sure that you
have at least a decent hand and you are confident that they don't have anything
better. These are just a few of the quick, simple ways to take advantage of bad
poker players.
How to Bet After the Flop
Playing after the flop terrifies many players because of the high level of skill and
risk it requires. In fact, many people will go "all-in" pre-flop just so they don't
have to "really" play post-flop. However, post-flop play is where you can
establish your DOMINANCE at the table, win most of your pots, and maximize
your POKER PROFITS.
Even though post-flop play is the key to success when playing poker, it is a skill
that most poker players utterly LACK. So let me ask you: How do you think YOU
size up?
There are several key strategies for post-flop play, and I'm going to share them
with you here. Think about the last few times you've played poker. Think about
what you did during each hand. What you did RIGHT and what you did WRONG.
The quickest, most surefire way to improve your poker game is to PLAY as much
as you can. Then, ANALYZE how you played so you'll do better the next time.

I'm going to share six post-flop strategies that will give you an advantage over
your opponents, by allowing you to "out-skill" other players and to keep them
from "out-drawing" you.
1. Sustained Aggression - After the flop, make sure that you don't show any
weakness. If you are confident that you have the best hand pre-flop, and the
flop yields nothing but scraps, you probably still do.
For example, let's say that you are dealt big slick and the flop comes 2, 5, 8. If
you bet strong before the flop (as you should have), it is likely that the flop
didn't help anyone. Also, if the turn card is yet another small or unimportant
card, don't be afraid to fire out another strong bet.
It takes guts to fire out two bets and your opponents will rarely put you on a
bluff after two strong moves.
So, make sure that you stay aggressive even if the flop does not help you. Since
bad flops usually help no one, when you remain aggressive, you can usually
scare away your competition and take the pot.
2. Remember Pre-Flop Action - There are many players who will see small flops
and turns as a way to buy a pot.
Let's say a player calls a bet before the flop, then checks after, and checks on
the turn. If the river is also unexciting, but the player leads out for a big bet,
chances are he's bluffing.
Always think back to how other opponents played EARLIER in the hand when you
think about how to play YOUR cards.
3. Raise And Re-Raise - You will never win a pot when you just call bets. I laugh
when a player with a weak hand call bets all the way down the line. Then, when
they are beaten by another weak hand, they immediately realize that a RAISE
could have WON the hand.
If you have a mediocre hand, don't just call a bet. Raise the pot and force others
out of the hand. If your opponents re-raise you, chances are you are beaten and
you should fold.
If you have a good hand, continue to bet more and more after each card. This
will make it too expensive for weak hands to stay in the pot and will increase the
pot size for you to win.
4. Look For Cheap Draws - If you are on a flush or straight draw, try to get as
many cheap cards as you can.
Let's say that you have an open-ended straight draw after the flop. If someone
leads out with a small bet, just call. When you are on a draw, it is not your job
to scare people out of the hand. You want as many people as possible to be in

for a low price. This will fatten the pot if you catch a card and reduce your risk
if you don't.
5. Never Show Weakness - After the flop, there are many people who will be
looking for you to show weakness. A check or a small bet will suggest
weakness. When you show weakness after the flop, you are just asking for your
opponents to come out firing. This means that staying in the hand will become
very expensive and you will not be able to stay in the hand with marginal cards.
6. Watch For "Make" Cards - If you have a good hand, your biggest fear should
be a card that can complete an even stronger hand.
Once, when I was playing at a casino in St. Louis, I flopped a nut flush draw. My
opponent, Josh, however flopped a monster hand, trip aces! Josh decided to
slow-play the trips, but failed to see the flush draw on the table. Then, on the
turn, I caught my fifth spade.
Still, Josh failed to look past his trip aces and finally led out with a huge bet.
With my nut-flush, I pushed in all my money, which covered his bet and his
remaining $250.
Finally, Josh realized that I might have a flush, but it was too late. After already
investing most of his stack in the hand, Josh called my all in bet. Josh could
have easily won that hand and raked in a fair-sized pot. Instead, he ignored the
"make" cards on the table and ended up losing all his money. (Not that I'm
complaining.)
Playing your hands after the flop requires patience, aggression, and persistence.
Also, effective post-flop play requires a solid understanding of basic and
advanced poker concepts.
Seven 7 Poker Tells
To get an accurate read on your opponents, you must learn to spot their "tells,"
which can indicate the STRENGTH or WEAKNESS of their hands. I have been
getting a lot of emails lately from players who want to learn which tells
"average" players exhibit (not WSOP pros) that will allow them to get an EDGE
over their opponents and as a result, make more CASH PROFITS from poker.
Getting a read on your opponents requires more than just seeing a few signals.
It is a COMPILATION of dozens of different signals.
While there is no single tell that all poker players have, there are several signals
that most poker players send out and are almost impossible to prevent.
The first five of these tells are for players who play at live tournaments, home
games, or in casinos. The next two are for everyone, including online poker
players.

1. PULSE - This is one of the lesser-known tells in poker, but it is one of the most
powerful tips that you can possess.
A man's pulse can be seen on either side of his neck and will give you valuable
information about the strength of his hand.
Since it is virtually impossible to completely control your pulse, TONS of players
display this tell.
If a player makes a big bet and then his neck starts going nuts, his pulse is
increasing, and there is a good chance he is bluffing.
2. POSTURE - If a player's posture improves right away after a card is turned
over, there is a good chance that the card completed his hand.
If a player has been on tilt for previous hands, then is dealt a hand and he
immediately sits up straight, there is a good chance that he caught a killer hand.
3. CHIP MOVEMENT - Watch you fellow players closely when they're involved in a
major pot...
Watch the way that they handle their chips and what moves they make with their
chips and their cards.
Then, CAREFULLY observe what they ultimately held in their hand.
If the player played a lot with their chips when they had a terrific hand, you can
count on them to do the same thing when they have similar cards.
When you are "researching" players for these kinds of habits, it is best that you
do so when you are NOT involved in a hand...
If you are involved with a player when you try to figure out his tells, you
probably won't be able to concentrate enough on the many OTHER things you
should be considering during the hand.
4. SHOULDER SHAKE - I know a lot of players who bounce their legs up and
down underneath the table when they have a good hand.
These players think that since their legs are under the table, that no one notices
it, but I always look at their shoulder to see if it moves back and forth.
5. TABLE TALK - Whenever a player talks at a table, they give away a lot of
information. If a player is often quiet, but starts speaking up when involved in a
major hand, it is likely that that person is bluffing.
Also, when a player talks and it sounds unnatural or forced, it is likely that the
person is trying to intimidate his opponents, and is bluffing.

(Since table talk can reveal so much about a player, I encourage you not to talk
much at the table. Be social and nice to your fellow players, but don't be the
table loud-mouth.)
6. TIMING - Timing is a crucial tell for poker players. The amount of time that a
player takes to make his decision is a key indicator of the strength/weakness of
their hand.
The common rules are as follows: Quick Check: Weakness
Quick Call: Strength
Slow Call: Weakness (If this player raises the pot, it could show strength.)
Slow Call: Medium
Slow Raise: Medium-Strong
Fast Raise: Strong
Of course none of these rules are steadfast or apply all the time. If a player
always takes a long time to act, it is almost impossible to apply these rules to
that player.
7. PAST PLAY - Not technically a "tell," a player's playing style and past
tendencies are the BEST source of information about what theyll do in the
future.
It is always a good idea to watch all the other players at a table before you get
involved with them, especially if you have never played them before. Getting a
good read on your opponents will allow you make better bluffs, win pots with
marginal hands, and fold your losers before you lose big.
Of course, just getting a good read on your opponents is only one aspect of
controlling the game.
Are You One Bet From Greatness?
There I sit, staring down a player across the table. There is Jason, a new, but
fairly strong player staring right back. I think "Well, Jason is pretty aggressive
and has been on tilt lately, so I should probably call his raise." I look down at
my pocket 10's once more, and call his large pre-flop raise.
The flop comes out 8, J, K.
Jason leads out with a medium bet. With two overcards on the table, I know my
hand is only marginal. If Jason bets stronger, I would fold. But since he only
bet 2X the big blind, I cautiously call, still knowing my 10's are weak.
The turn is an Ace, and I am really worried about my 10's. Just about any bet will
scare me away from this hand. However, Jason is a novice and meekly checks.
Sensing weakness, I place a big bet, he folds, and I win the pot.

As I rake in my nice pot, Jason flips over a Jack and says, "I couldn't call with just
jacks." I quietly laugh to myself as I think about how easily Jason could have
won that pot. Any bet would have scared me away from the pot. Instead, Jason
showed weakness and lost the pot.
The moral of the story?
If you are going to succeed playing poker, you need the "nuts to bet without the
nuts." The key to picking up hands from loose players is NOT just placing a
single large bet.
Instead, if you want to win pots against overly aggressive players, you must be
willing to bet before the flop, after the flop, on the turn, and on the river.
Remember that bad players will often call a large bet on a draw or with a
medium pair. However, few players will call 2 or even 3 large bets with a weak
hand.
Let's say that a player comes out with a large preflop bet. Then the flop comes
A, 9, 10- all spades. Now, the player scales back and only places the minimum
bet. I put my opponent on a pair of aces, weak kicker, and no spades. Even if I
don't have any spades, I will bet like I do. After I make a medium raise, my
opponent reluctantly calls.
I know now that he is on the brink of folding.
The turn is a 4 of diamonds. My opponent checks. In this position, many
players would not lead out with another bet if they don't have the flush. Instead
of showing weakness, I lead in with a big bet, representing the flush (or an Ace
with a high kicker).
My opponent stares me down, looks at his cards, and then folds. I rake in the
pot as I throw my scraps to the dealer. If my opponent calls down the line, his
Aces will beat my rags. If I show weakness and check on 4th street, he will bet
big on the river, and I won't be able to call.
So, if I don't bet big on the turn, I will lose the hand and a chunk of my stack.
The biggest difference between players and wannabees is their ability to make
multiple attempts at a pot.
When you play poker, you cannot be afraid to lose your chips. As the old saying
goes, "The second you try to hold onto your chips, you will surely lose them all."
I should mention here that there are some circumstances when you should play
tight and not bet at a pot. The cardinal rule is simple: never bluff tight players.
If your opponent only plays solid hands, chances are that he will be willing to
call (or even raise) you all the way down the hand.
Also, if there are more than two other players in a hand, don't try to buy it. The
odds are too great that someone has a solid hand. Also be wary of bluffing bad

players. If a player has shown that he is far too loose with his chips, you should
avoid trying to buy pots off him.
Finally, don't bet for a pot when you are short-stacked. When you are shortstacked, you cannot afford to lose any significant hand on a bad bluff.
When you learn how to properly time your bluff attempts and you are
comfortable with placing several large bets on a single hand, you will gain a
huge advantage over everyone you play. This advantage will allow you to win
more pots, whether you are playing in a friendly home game, at a casino, or in a
large tournament.
Secrets to Beating the Pot Odds
If you play poker, you should always pay close attention to many different
elements of the game.
Players who are on tilt, opponents who are on poker runs and the size of other
players' stacks are all elements that you should be CONSTANTLY thinking about.
While many players are aware of these different aspects of Texas Holdem, many
players ignore one of the most important parts of the game.
The SIZE of the POT.
There are many reasons that you should pay close attention to the size of the
pot when you are involved in a hand. The MOST important reason is that it will
give you an accurate gauge of the RISKS and REWARDS that each hand offers.
If you are involved in a hand where many players have put money into the pot,
the hand likely has very good "pot odds"- which is the ratio of the money which
you stand to WIN versus the RISK REQUIRED to win it.
For example, I was recently playing a hand at the final table of a no-limit Texas
Holdem tournament. I was dealt pocket 10's and played it aggressively. My
opponent checked to me every turn and then called each bet. Finally, after the
river came, I was holding two pair (10's and 8's) with a flush draw on the table.
My opponent led out and bet $50.00.
I was worried about the possible flush, but it only required an additional $50.00
to possibly win over $500.00. I knew that if he had a flush, he would call any
raise I was willing to make. So, I decided to call. Using the laws of pot odds, I
was able to bring in a pot of $625 when my opponent turned over his lousy
pocket 7's.
The law of pot odds should be considered every time you are involved in a pot.
I can't help but laugh when a player folds to a small bet on the river when they
could win a huge pot if they call.

You should also remember that pot odds also apply to you when you should
NOT call or make bets.
Recently, I was playing in an online poker tournament when a player moved allin before the flop. Unfortunately, there was nothing for the player to win but a
few blinds. There was absolutely no reason for this player to move all-in when
there was nothing to win but a few measly dollars. Unfortunately for my
opponent, I was dealt a monster hand (pocket aces) and I went on to win his
money.
Never risk an unnecessary amount of your chips to win a small pot. (Of course,
if you are small-stacked, it is plausible to go all in when you are late in a game
and the blinds are considerable.)
The size of the pot will also dictate how other people play their hand. When
your opponent has placed a great deal of money into a pot, he is unlikely to fold
unless you make a huge bet.
So, if you catch a monster hand, you should always try to get your opponents
"pot committed." Then you can turn your opponents into "calling stations" and
make away with all their chips.
If you sense weakness and you think that you might be able to buy a pot off of a
pot-committed player, there is a way to scare him off without putting all your
chips in jeopardy.
I have learned that when a player is pot-committed, they are far looser than if
they weren't. So, the TRICK is that you want to DISCONNECT the final moves
from the rest of the hand.
A good way to separate the plays you make from the rest of the hand is to force
a BREAK in the action. I like to ask my opponent to count their chips before I
make a move. This action forces a break in the action and also puts any bets I
make in context. Let's say that I'm up against an opponent who has $1,000 in
chips. If I bet $500 in this position, my opponent will realize that the bet
constitutes HALF his chips and will usually fold unless he has a very good hand.
However, you should remember that with YOUR OWN hands, you should never
worry much about the money that you have already placed in the pot. When you
put money into a pot, it is NO LONGER YOUR MONEY. That money belongs to
whoever wins the pot. Period. Unless you are playing with great pot odds, you
should never call any bets unless you are confident that you have a better hand
or can pull a bluff.
If you have put $100 into a hand, and you are contemplating calling a $50 bet,
think about your move in the context of the MOMENT. In other words, forget
the money that you have already invested into the pot. Instead, if the current
situation merits a call or a raise, make it. However, you don't want to make
such a move simply because you have already put a large portion of your stack
into the pot.

Paying close attention to the size of the pot and the betters who are putting
money into it is a great way that you can control the game, which is essential to
WINNING Texas Holdem poker.
How to Play Small Pocket Pairs
*** Question ***
Rory, help me out. I need to know what to do when I get pocket pairs that are
under 10s. Any ideas?
S.J., Venice, CA
>> My Comments:
Most players hesitate when dealt a small pocket pair. They aren't sure what to
do with the hand. Should you raise or should you limp in with your hand?
Well, it really depends on the action at the table and your positioning. Let's say
youre sitting just to the right of the button and you're dealt pocket 4's. Drew is
to the left of the big blind and is first to act before the flop. He comes out firing
and makes it $10 to play. Josh is next to act and he calls the raise along with
three other players.
There is $53 in the pot up to this point, and its finally time for you to act. You
know you're beat right now. In fact, you may have the weakest hand of
everyone. So do you muck the 4's?
No, this is where you play the pot odds and call the bet. This may be your
biggest win all night if you hit your trips.
The flop hits K,9,4 and Drew begins the action with a huge bet. Two others call
and the action is back to you. You push your entire stack in because you know
you will get a caller. Plus, there are 2 hearts on the board and you don't want
someone to catch a lucky flush. If they want to chase, they will have to pay the
price.
Drew calls the all-in bet with Big Slick and you take his entire stack. This is how
you play a small wired pair when the pot size is right. Even though you know
that someone may be sitting on pocket aces, you're going to rake a huge pot if
you hit your trips.
When the flop hits K,9,4, your opponents can never put you on pocket 4's.
These are the hands that you make money with if you play correctly. Now what
if you're dealt pocket 4's while on the button. Everyone at the table has limped
in and the action is to you. How do you play the hand in this situation?

You have to play aggressively so you make it $15 to play. This is a rather large
bet but, you did it for a reason. You want to get rid of the crap hands at the
table and hopefully go heads up against just one opponent who has a hand like
AJ or KQ.
This is exactly what happens. Drew is the only player to call your bet.
The flop hits A,K,2. Now you've got a huge advantage because Drew must act
first. He checks to you and your pocket 4's. Now you represent the flop as
though you've hit the ace or king on the board. You fire out a $40 bet.
Drew looks down at his pocket 5's for a moment and soon mucks the hand
because he has to put you on a big hand, when in fact, he has you beat. This is
how you play aggressively with a small pocket pair when you have good
positioning and everyone has limped in.
If you play these hands correctly, you're going to steal a few extra pots a night
and be the player at the table that dictates the action.
How to Play Against Tight Players
You're on the button and dealt KQ of diamonds. Aaron is first to act and he
makes it $20 to play. Everyone else at the table folds because they know that
Aaron is a very tight player. When he makes a bet, everybody runs because
more times than not he's holding aces or kings.
You, however, decide to see a flop by calling the bet. Why not? You have good
positioning on him and he must act first after the flop.
The flop hits K, 9, 4 with no diamonds. Aaron doesn't even hesitate before
firing out a $50 bet. The action is on you and you're not feeling very good
about your top pair. You know that Aaron doesn't bluff and that there is a good
chance that he is holding Aces, Kings, or Big Slick.
If he has any of these hands, you're in big trouble. You decide to see the next
card because you are stubborn and want to see a queen hit. This is where
you've made the mistake. You've just become pot committed and didn't even
think about the action after the turn card hits.
If you had thought about what was to come, you would have realized that Aaron
is going to make an even larger bet. He always does. He's probably going to
fire at least $100 at you. Then what do you do?
You will be invested for $70 and $100 more won't seem like much to pay. And
even if you do hit your queen or king, you may still be in big trouble.
These are the types of hands that get players in trouble against tight players.
They don't think about the price they will have to pay after the turn and the
river.

In this example, we decided to call the $50 after the flop. If we had played the
hand out in our head, we would have seen how ugly it could get.
We knew that Aaron would fire an even larger bet after the turn card hit. We are
not prepared to call another huge bet against a tight player like him.
Here is how we should have played the hand
Yeah, we all love KQ suited. Aaron made it $20 to play before the flop. I would
call his bet even though I'm sure he's got a monster hand.
Why not? If diamonds hit you're going to rake a large pot. The flop hit K, blank,
blank. We just hit our top pair but Aaron came out firing.
Here is where we have to lay the hand down. Don't commit yourself to the pot
by calling another bet. This will make it even harder to fold after the turn and
river. Take your $20 loss and catch Aaron when you flop a monster against
him.
First Position, Before the Flop
There you sit - just to the left of the big blind. This means you are going to be
the FIRST to act before the flop. You can't figure out if this is a position that you
LOVE or one that you HATE. It's really the position you love to hate. Here's why:
Let's say you're dealt a Q, J offsuit. You're one of those players who loves just
about any combination of cards. So, of course, this Q, J is looking very good
right now. You decide to call the big blind of $2.
Drew is next to act. He makes it $10 to play and one other player calls his bet.
The action is back to you and your QJ. You think, Whats $8 more? and call the
bet.
The flop hits Q, 7, 4 and you're first to act. Now what do you do? You've just
hit the top pair on the board, but are afraid to bet because you have to put Drew
on a strong hand with his pre-flop raise. He could be sitting on pocket Q's, K's,
A's, KQ or AQ. All of which beat your hand.
You decide to check and see what Drew is going to do. He fires out a$20 bet,
just as you thought he would. Josh folds and the action is back to you. You're
already in for $10 so you decide to see the turn card, which is a 9. You see
where this story is going?
You end up becoming pot committed and bet your stack only to see Drew throw
over AQ.
This is exactly how the first position before the flop can get you in trouble. If
you play mediocre hands you are going to get burnt.

Now, let's look at the time when you will LOVE the first position. Here's the
scenario:
You're dealt pocket aces and are first to act. Instead of firing out a raise you
simply call the big blind. You're at a rather aggressive table and know that one
of the seven other players will raise.
Just as you thought, Drew makes it $15 to play. Three other players call the bet
and the action is back to you. You go over the top and make it $60 to play.
Drew is a maniac and can't stand to be raised. So he pushes his entire stack
into the middle with AJ and you take all his chips.
You made the money in this situation because you played your positioning to
your advantage. You decided to limp in instead of raising. You did this because
you wanted to let your opponents create the action before you made your
attack.
While Drew was raising and the others were calling, they had completely forgot
about you, which is EXACTLY what you wanted.
Playing the first position can be frustrating at times. You simply have to know
what type of table you are at and which hands to play. Once you master this
position in Texas Holdem poker, you will own a MAJOR competitive edge
against your opponents and friends. And you'll start dragging in more pots,
night after night after night.
What to Do When You're Small Blind
If you've read my newsletters or my book, then you know that I'm a rather
aggressive player. I like to push the action and make things happen. However,
there is a position at the table that I am very hesitant to play aggressively.
And that position is small blind, which is just to the left of the dealer. This
position is very tough to play because you are first to act after the flop. I've
found that playing aggressively from this position will only lead to trouble.
Here's how.
Let's say you're dealt a Q9 of diamonds and four of your opponents limp in to
see the flop. You like your hand and already have half of your ante in the pot,
so you also decide to also limp in.
The flop hits Q, 3, 7 with no diamonds on the board. Now you are first to act
with the top pair on board.
Should you throw out a bet? I wouldn't!

It can only lead to trouble because of your positioning. There are four other
players that can act after you. They could be holding a number of hands that
beat yours. If you throw out a bet and Drew is sitting on JQ, you are in big
trouble.
Why throw out a bet here? It doesn't make sense.
Check and see what your opponents do. If everyone checks, then you may want
to make a bet after the turn card. However, betting after the flop will only get
you in trouble if there are numerous callers in the hand. Don't do it!
Now let's say your holding that same Q9 and the flop hits Q, 9, 3. You've just
flopped 2 pair. Once again, your first to act. Do you play this flop aggressively
by making a bet? No again! It wouldn't make sense to. Here is how I would
play this hand:
Check the flop and let one of the other aggressive players make a stab at the
pot. After Drew throws out a $20 bet, I'd simply call. The turn hits and its a 4,
which I know didn't help Drew's hand. I check again as though my hand is
weaker than it actually is. Drew's not falling for it. He checks right behind me.
The river is another 4 and once again, I'm first to act. Now I can't check. If I
check here I take the chance that Drew may not bet again, which means I make
no more money on the hand.
Instead, I throw out a $20 bet. I know Drew has to call this with even a very
weak hand. He's pot committed and will pay the $20 to simply see my cards.
As you can see, I really don't bet often in the small blind. If I do it is because I
raised before the flop or have just one or two opponents in with me after the
flop.
In these situations, it makes it a bit easier to bet. However, if I'm in the hand
with multiple callers, I really don't see a reason to bet after the flop. If you play
the small blind with caution, you will rake more pots and outplay your
opponents all night long.
The Most Feared Player at The Table
*** Question ***
Hey Rory, I just downloaded your book and it's great. I feel I know much more
about poker. I was wondering if you could give me some more tips and pointers
on reading opponents at the table. Thanks.
J.L., Los Angeles, CA
>> My Comments: Dear J.L.,
Great question.

Understanding the different player types is the key to making serious money
playing poker, but there is one type of player who will DOUBLE your stack or
could send you packing...its up to you.
Maniacs are the most feared and volatile players in Texas Holdem. These
players can steal your blinds all night long without being challenged, but once
you decide to make a stand they will reveal their monster hand. That is, unless
you know how to play "maniacs" properly.
The reason that maniacs are so dangerous is that they wear down the logical
thinking process of other players. Even experienced players get frustrated by
the maniacs style and make moves they regret later.
A maniac will bet wildly for so many hands that eventually players will call them
even when they don't have good cards. Maniacs are also so unpredictable that it
is almost impossible to get a good read on them. Since they are so tough to get
a read on, it is very difficult to judge if they have a good hand or if they are just
trying to buy the pot.
While a maniac strikes fear into most players, when you understand their style
you will know how to take advantage of their aggressive play. The key to
playing a maniac is patience.
Once at a tournament, a player sat down at the table and started moving all-in
almost every hand. After a few hands, the players started getting annoyed and
after a half hour of being bullied by the maniac, the players were eager to make
a stand.
Finally, a player was dealt 10, J suited and called the maniac's all-in bet. When
the cards were turned over, the maniac was way out front with Q, Q and went on
to win the hand. Even through 10 J suited is a decent hand, it is usually not
good enough to risk all your chips with before the flop.
Instead of making a hasty decision with his 10 J, the player should have waited
until he had a more powerful hand to play. After about an hour at that same
tournament, the maniac at the table was chip leader and I was in second. I had
mostly avoided playing against him throughout the night. I was waiting for my
big chance. Finally it came when I was dealt pocket Kings.
I made a small raise trying to fake a weak attempt to buy the pot. Everyone
folded but the maniac who (of course) made a large raise. After thinking for a
little bit about the situation, I came in all-in over the top of his raise. To my
surprise, he quickly called. I flipped over my pocket Kings and he turned over
pocket Queens.
I went on to win the hand with my cowboys and quickly moved into a
commanding position with my huge stack of chips. The maniac (who had more
chips then I did) became the short stack at the table and lost his advantage.

Once he tried to mount a comeback with his usual raises, he was quickly called
and eliminated.
The moral of the story is simple. When you sit down with a maniac, you must be
PATIENT. When you get good cards, you will be able to make away with a big
pot.
Remember: maniacs and highly-aggressive players make their move when they
sense weakness in the other players. This makes them prime candidates for
slow plays and check-raises.
Re-raising large bets made by maniacs can serve as a way to force them out of
hands where they have no real hand. However, you should only do this when
you have good hands. And always be ready for a re-re-raise.
There are more and more maniacs in Holdem poker tournaments lately.
Maniacs are very successful against amateur players and the increase of poker
popularity has definitely generated a flood of amateur players.
This increase of maniacs means that when you learn to take advantage of their
playing style, you will gain a huge advantage over your competition and increase
your poker profits. Of course, the maniac playing style is just one of many
player types that you will encounter when playing poker.
There are many other playing types, such as:
- Calling Stations
- "Timids" and Conservative Players
- Yo-Yo's (Players who switch playing types)
- Baby Sharks (Strong but undisciplined players)
- Opossums (Always slow-play good cards)
- And Many More...
You will come across these playing types at almost every tournament that you
play in. You will also find that players are usually a combination of two or more
of these styles.
Since a player's style makes a huge difference on how you play against that
player, you must learn the different styles in order to win against each type.
Common Online Poker Mistakes
If you play online poker, this may be the most important tip youve ever read.
Take these strategies seriously and you could quickly and consistently win more
pots from online poker games.
There are seven major (yet easily correctable) mistakes that both novice and
experienced players make when playing online poker. Learn to prevent these
mistakes, and you'll have a competitive advantage over others.

Mistake No. 1: Getting Distracted.

Poker is a skill game, but it requires concentration and attention to detail. When
you are distracted, you take your abilities out of the picture and then you have
to rely on luck.
I know many poker players who play as many as 5 games online at the same
time. While experienced online poker players may be able to handle this, you
should focus on one game at a time.
Also, remember that the distractions that surround you at your home can ruin
your concentration when you are playing poker. TV's, radios, and phones all
divide your attention and take your mind off the game at hand. While
distractions are likely the most costly mistakes that players make, they are easy
to eliminate.
When you are playing poker, make sure that you turn off the TV, grab a Coke,
and turn off your phone. This way you won't be jumping up and down when you
should be concentrating on your game.
Mistake No. 2: Using The Auto-Play Functions.
The auto-play buttons are made to speed up the game. If you use the auto-play
buttons, realize that you are using them at the cost of your chips.
Since online poker players are separated by hundreds of miles, one of the only
"tells" in an online poker game is the amount of time that a player takes before
acting on his or her hand. The "Commonly Accepted Formula" is this:
A delayed check = Weakness
Instantaneous call = Strength
Instantaneous check = Weakness
Quick bet/raise on turn or river = Strength
The reason that this formula is so widely accepted by poker players is that it
holds surprisingly true. The first tell is simply an understanding of poker
psychology, but the last three are based on the auto-play buttons.
Think about it: If you have a weak hand and you click the automatic check
button, you are telling every one at the table that you have a weak hand.
However, if you take a moment, people must ask themselves "Are they slow
playing it? Will I be check-raised? How has he played in the past?"
Mistake No. 3: Talking Too Much.
Some players think that since they are online, that talking doesn't serve as a tell.
However, except for using auto-play buttons, talking serves as the biggest tell in
online poker.

Don't waste your energy taunting or talking to other players. This will give
players a look into your personality and therefore your true playing style.
Talking too much also leads into the next online poker mistake.
Mistake No. 4: Making Enemies.
Making enemies in poker is never a good idea. If you win a pot, graciously drag
the chips to your pile, but don't say a word. If you lose a pot to a lucky draw,
take it on the chin and don't whine. The reason that you don't want to make
enemies is simple. The enemies you make playing poker will be "gunning" for
you.
It is never good to have players who want you out of a game, because they will
be more likely to make a move against you. This takes the power out of your
hands because the other players aren't playing FOR chips, they are playing
AGAINST you.
So, keep to yourself, and let the chips do the talking.
Mistake No. 5: Showing cards.
Showing your cards is rarely a good idea. Some players claim that it puts other
players on tilt and shakes them out of their game. However, instead of hurting
the other players, showing your cards usually hurts you and forces you out of
your game.
Remember that you always want people to respect your bluffs. So think about
this:
You win a huge pot on a stone-cold bluff. Good for you. You turn over your 7-2
offsuit to shake up the other players. Now the other players know your style of
bluffing and your betting method.
A few hours later, you make another move for a pot by pushing most of your
stack into the pot. Now the players think back and remember your past bluffs.
This time, they don't fall for it, call, and you lose your stack. Finally, players
who turn up their cards often are seen as cocky or rude. This leads to poker
enemies...and we know what that means.
Mistake No. 6: Relying Too Much On Odds.
Many online poker players have downloaded "odds calculators" that give precise
readouts of the probability of any certain combination of cards. These
calculators are terrific tools to give you an idea about the strength of your hand,
but be very wary of putting too much emphasis on the odds.
Remember that poker is a game of strategy and numbers, not just a game of
numbers. You must take many factors into consideration when playing poker,
not just the odds that you will win the hand.

Mistake No. 7: Playing For Too Much.

Never play poker with more than you can afford to lose. If you have $30 to
spare, don't sit down in a $5-10 limit room.
Anytime that you sit down at a table, be sure that you can afford to lose the
money that you take with you, and that you have enough money to play
competitively. If you sit at a table and only bring 3-5X the big blind, you will
find yourself being bullied and quickly lose your stack.
Also, if you play at a table where you cannot afford to lose all the money, you
will play too conservatively, and you will quickly go broke. Of course, just
learning the common pitfalls of poker players will never take you to the next
level. If you want to take the step to increase your poker skills so you will
dominate every game you play, there is much more to learn.
If you're really serious about winning tons of cash at the poker tables, you must
learn the art of bluffing, betting, reading players, folding, odds calculation,
recalling hands, and much more.
Learning everything you need to become a successful poker player all by
yourself requires years of hard work and lost pots. Luckily for you, you aren't
on your own.
How to Finish In the Money Every Time You Play
Whether you are playing a cash game, home game, or in a tournament will have
a huge impact on how you play and the strategies you use during the game. An
experienced player will vary his strategies to make certain that he has every
advantage to win every time he plays.
There are three main game types which you will play, and each one requires
different strategies and game plans.
1. Home Games - Home games are the most popular form of poker today.
With the explosion of Texas Holdem popularity, there are literally thousands of
home games occurring every single day. When you are playing a home game,
there are several things you should keep in mind.
First, home games are often played much more aggressively than tournaments
or cash games. Because amateurs usually prefer small home games, and
amateurs tend to play more loosely then more experience players, you must
take into account that home games are played looser than other games. To take
advantage of this fact when you play, make sure that you play strong hands
when and make full use of check-raises and slow plays at home games.

2. Cash Games - Cash games are also gaining more and more popularity. These
games don't mess around with chips or anything but just put the money right
on the table. These games are usually played more conservatively. The
psychology of cold hard cash on the table makes people more worried about
losing big.
These games are usually easier to bluff than home games or tournaments.
Since the actual value of a bet seems greater in a cash game, pots are far easier
to buy.
Think of it like this: If you are in a game and a player makes a $1,000 bet and
lays down a few chips, you may fold. However, if you see a player start laying
down hundred dollar bills, you are much more likely to fold.
Make sure that you take the conservative nature of cash games into account
when you sit down at the table.
3. Tournaments - Tournaments are the most popular type of game. There are
thousands of tournaments held every week. Tournaments are the most popular
form of poker for several reasons. First, tournaments usually have very high
payouts with very small buy-ins.
Another reason that tournaments are the most popular sport is that all the
experienced players prefer tournaments to other games. Why?
Because in tournaments there are PROVEN methods you can use to finish in the
money every time. There are several fundamental truths that you must learn if
you are going to have any success playing poker tournaments.
First, you must know the tournament structure before you even sit down at the
table. Make sure you know the policies on buy-backs, pay-out structure, and the
prize amounts. This information will greatly effect how you play the game.
Knowing the buy-back policy is crucial because it will determine how you play
for the first hands of the game. If you can buy-back into a tournament, as a
rule, you should start the game by playing very aggressive. This will allow you
to jump out to a quick chip lead, but allow you to fall back on the buy-back if
you lose your chips.
You should also learn the pay-out structure because it will shape the pace of the
tournament and should shape the rhythm of your play. If a tournament only
pays out the top 3 or 5 players, you cannot sit back and play in "survival mode."
Instead, you must play to form a huge chip stack that will carry you deep into
the game. However, if the tournament starts paying for the top 15-20 spots,
you can play more conservatively.
Ultimately, every tournament player should have three goals when playing
poker:
1. Survival.

2. Building a large chip stack.

3. Eliminate as many players as possible.
Finally, any successful poker player knows that moving tables in a tournament
can be the most dangerous time of a game. When you play at a table for a long
period of time, you start to learn the styles of the other players and learn how to
play against them.
However, when you move tables, you start over at a completely foreign table
with players you likely don't know. So, to avoid making a costly mistake, you
should avoid playing hands until you watch several hands.
A general rule states that you should allow the dealer button to make a
complete loop around the table before you start playing hands. Understanding
the game of poker is pivotal to becoming a successful poker player.
Does The Size Of Your Stack Really Matter?
Do You Know The Laws Of Chip Position?
If you want to achieve any real success playing poker, there are several
fundamental rules which you must understand about capitalizing on chip
position. By chip position I mean the amount of chips which you have in your
stack. You must also know how many chips your opponents have in theirs.
Novices forget the incredible importance of chip position. In fact, in Texas
Holdem, the size of your stack is just as, IF NOT MORE, important as your
cards.
There are two different reasons you should master the concept of chip position.
First, you must change your play depending on your chip position. Also, you
must change your play against players in different positions. A sure-fire way to
lose your money is to play the same not matter how much money you have. You
must vary your strategies and rotate between conservative and aggressive play.
The following are general guidelines to follow to help you make the most out of
these laws of Chip Position:
1. If you are the Short Stack or you are running out of chips, it is time to make a
move.
The biggest mistake that I see novices make is waiting too long before switching
to aggressive play. By the time they go all-in, they don't have enough chips to
scare anyone away - they are called by 3 players and go broke.
2. When you are Chip Leader, throw your weight around at the table. A good
player will be a "bully" at a table where he is chip leader.

As the bully of the table, you will be able to buy more pots than otherwise.
However, don't get TOO aggressive. I see many bad players lose huge sums of
money trying to buy every single pot.
Another mistake that Chip Leaders make is becoming too comfortable. Poker is
a very volatile game and no matter how many chips you have, you could go
broke in just a few hands. To avoid losing your advantage as chip leader,
aggressively play your good hands. As chip leader, you can afford to lose chips
on good hands and bad beats, but not on bad bluffs.
3. Beware the Chip Leader and Short Stack
If you are in the middle of the pack, going heads up against the Chip Leader or
Short Stack can be a dangerous choice. First, a player in the Short Stack is often
desperate and dangerous to bluff against. If you have solid cards, playing the
Short Stack can be great. The Short Stack is more willing to go all-in with only
mediocre hands; this means a big win for you.
The Chip Leader is also very dangerous to play unless you have solid cards. If
the Chip Leader has a hunch that you are bluffing, they are likely to call you or
raise you down the line. If you try to bluff the Chip Leader and he suspects it,
you are in huge danger of losing a chunk of your stack.
To avoid getting caught bluffing by the Chip Leader and losing to mediocre
cards, make sure your bets and raises are enough to make a serious difference
for every player at the card table. If the Chip Leader has $1,000 in chips, small
$15-50 bets will not scare him away but could take a significant chunk out of
your stack. So, if you are trying to buy a pot from the Chip Leader make sure
you bet at least $100-$200, a sum that will usually be enough to make him
think twice about calling.
4. Eliminate Short Stacks When Possible
If you watched the World Series of Poker this year, you saw that Chris "Jesus"
Ferguson was down to his last chip. However, with only a single $2,000 chip, he
battled back to build a stack of $125,000.
This type of comeback isn't unusual in poker; in fact it is very common. I have
seen hundreds of players who were short stacked catch a few lucky hands and
end up as the Chip Leader.
The moral?
Any time that you can eliminate a player from a poker game, DO IT! When a
player is short stacked, push him to make a bad decision and knock him out of
the game. Period. Even if you have to lose a few chips, eliminating a player from
the table is likely worth it.

This is also why it is so important for you to make a move when you are short
stacked before it is too late. Once your stack is too short, you will find it very
difficult to battle back.
Understanding Chip Position is a key element of any strong poker strategy.
However, it is just one aspect that you should consider every hand you play.
How to Check-Raise Your Way to Victory
The check-raise is one of the most potent and powerful weapons that any poker
player has. If you are leaving this tool in your belt, you are missing out on more
pots than you can imagine.
The check-raise intimidates players, allows you to control the tempo of a game,
and puts other players on "tilt." It is safe to say that when I play novices, I win
more pots with the check-raise then I do with good cards. This is why it is so
confusing to me when people don't use this secret. To master the check-raise,
you must first understand what the check-raise really is.
A check-raise is when a player checks to his opponent who places a bet. Then
the player proceeds to raise his opponent. This simple strategy is extremely
powerful for several reasons...
First, a check-raise confuses your opponents. A check is often read as a show of
weakness and is met by a bet. However, when you raise after checking, your
opponent must reconsider his read. Also, this strategy often intimidates your
opponents. Especially if you are playing against amateurs, you can SCARE
players out of hands by using the check-raise.
Yet another advantage of the check-raise is it will often put other players on tilt.
For example, you have pocket 7's and the flop comes 10, 7, 2. If you check and
your opponent tries to buy the pot with a large bet, a raise will "catch him" and
win the hand. Anytime that you can catch someone on a bluff, you gain a
serious advantage. Since bluffing is so important, if a player is too scared to
bluff, he will be broke soon.
The final benefit of the check-raise is that it can be used to win pots no matter if
you have the cards or not. If you have great cards, you can check-raise to
increase the pot size. This is better than simply placing a large bet because
other players will already have money in the pot.
So using the check-raise, you can drag in more money without forcing out your
opponents. You can also use the check-raise when you don't have good cards.
When you check, players will often sense weakness and try to buy the pot.
When players try to buy the pot, they are not ready to be raised or willing to call
a significant raise unless they have good cards.
The check-raise is somewhat like an ambush. You show weakness with a check;
then your opponent chases you, but falls right into your trap.

Every strategy you add to your repertoire will improve your game and increase
your winnings. Check-raises are very powerful, but they must be used as part of
a large collection of strategies and "tricks." If you rely too much on one strategy
you will become predictable and things will turn bad.
How to Read a Poker Face
Has there ever been someone in your life who you could just read like a book?
By just seeing their body language, you INSTANTLY knew what kind of mood
they were in? It may have been someone in your immediate family, or a
girlfriend, or a spouse, or whoever.
- You could READ the look on their face.
- You could HEAR and IDENTIFY the tone in their voice.
- You could SENSE their mood right away.
Know what I'm talking about? If so, give me a silent nod.
What if I told you that you could bring this ability to "read" a person to the poker
table? What if you could instantly KNOW what your opponents were thinking?
Or the cards they were holding? Would you be able to win more hands,
tournaments, and CASH with that kind of ability?
9 times out of 10, your opponents body language will literally GIVE AWAY their
hands.
All you have to do is know HOW to understand this "hidden
communication."
For starters, it's important that you study every single move another player
makes. This is obvious, because without carefully studying their movements
(instead of getting "too caught up" in your own hand) you'll NEVER be good at
reading their body language. Make sense?
Usually, you can trust your gut instinct. The problem most players have is
knowing what their GUT is REALLY SAYING. Mediocre and good players will be
aware of their "poker face" (or "poker tells") and will seek to give you an
OPPOSITE impression of what's really true. Reading this type of player is simple.
Anytime you see a player acting a little TOO dramatic, you've got him. Here's an
example:
Let's say you're dealt pocket aces and you make a pre-flop raise of $20 to get rid
of the "limpers" (so that you don't get run down by something silly like a 2/7
off-suit). "Drew" is sitting to the right of you, and he's the only player to call
your bet. The flop hits King, 7, 3 - all different suits.

Now, you're HOPING Drew hit his king so that you can wipe him out for all his
chips. The action is on you first, and you toss a bet out for $30.
Now here's the key: You should be STUDYING Drew's body language this entire
time!
Let's say he calls you without hesitation.
Right away, you put him on the king. The turn hits, and it's another 3. You
know this card doesn't help Drew, because he wouldn't have called your pre-flop
raise with a 3 in his hand.
So now you fire out a $60 bet, because you think your aces are going to wipe
his cowboys out. He's obviously pot committed, and he calls without a look of
being nervous. You're still thinking he's got the king (one in his hand, one on
the table).
The river card hits, and it's a KING. Bummer. Immediately you feel sick to your
stomach. That was the LAST card you wanted to see. So know the board reads
K, 7, 3, 3, K and you've still got your aces. Now you HAVE to check to Drew. If
you throw out a bet, he's going to come over the top of you (assuming he's got
the king; which gives him a full house). The only hope you have left now is that
he's got Jacks or Queens and that he'll also check the river card.
After you check the action, Drew sends off a major hesitation vibe. He stalls
and of course, he knows you know what's in his hand. He sits, waits, and
thinks.
What he's REALLY trying to do is make you think he doesn't have the winning
hand because he KNOWS he's got the best hand. Finally, he leans back in his
chair, takes a deep breath, and then pushes in a bet for $240.
Before his chips get to the middle you muck your hand. He gave you his "tell"
with his overdramatic body actions, and this hand is done. As you muck your
aces, he says, "Damn" and shows you his hand - it's a King/Queen. You just nod
your head and say, "Yea, I know."
Even though you didn't WIN the hand, you saved some of your bankroll.
Catching the king on the river was simply luck for him, and it'll come back
around to you soon. You played the cards right, and STAYED IN THE GAME
because you were smart about reading his body language.
Instead of being like most suckers, who would whine about this type of hand for
weeks claiming they "always catch the bad beats," you just shrug it off and keep
tight to YOUR expert game.
Of course, reading body language takes practice, and it requires a deep
understanding of the "signs" to look for.

How to Spot the Sucker

From the moment you sit down at a table, people are going to be sizing you up.
So it is vital that YOU learn how to identify the sucker at your table...FAST.
Otherwise you'll end up BEING the sucker. Get my drift?
Think of it like this: a sucker is going to end up losing all his chips real quickly.
If YOU don't take his chips, someone else will, and then you'll be at a
disadvantage with a smaller stack. So if you don't know who the sucker is, you
are essentially handing the advantage over to your competitors and I know you
don't want that.
Fortunately, you can learn to spot the sucker within the first few hands at the
table. These strategies will teach you to take the sucker for all he's got, then
use his chips to dominate the entire table. To spot the sucker, look out for the
following poker "tells":
1. Cockiness - Most players who constantly boast, brag, or "talk trash" are
secretly trying to compensate for their insecurities...
2. "Insta-Tilts" - Watch out for players that go on tilt right away. If they fold after
a tough lay down... then on the next hand they call every bet, there is a good
chance they're your "sucker."
3. Overacting - If a player "overacts" with his/her bluffs, calls, and folds, watch
out. Weak players tend to try to overcompensate for their lack of ability with
acting. If you have an over-acting player at your table, get ready to go on a run.
4. WSOP Syndrome - The Holdem on TV is time-edited, so it seems like there is
serious action on every hand. The fact is that there are dozens of pots for every
one they show on TV. If a player tries to play EVERY pot, there is good chance
they have never played any real Texas Holdem before.
5. Showboating - If a player showboats after winning a hand, it shows his
inexperience in poker. Real players know better then to make enemies at the
poker table whenever possible. If you have a showboater at your table, take all
his chips, then see what he says.
6. Lack of Commitment - If a player seems to fold every time someone raises
them; they must not have the "stomach" for poker, and probably haven't played
before.
Once you have picked out the suckers out of the table, it is time to bring their
chips over to YOUR stack. There are several ways that you can use your
knowledge to gain a big chip advantage. Here are a few:
1. Bully The Timid - If a sucker is very cautious and folds once raised, use that
and start bullying them out of pots. Re-raise their bets, and go over-the-top of
them when possible.

2. Trap The Bold - If you find a player who seems to play every single hand, and
bluffs too often, lay low until you pick up a monster, then let him try to bluff
you and take them big.
(Note these players are dangerous, you cannot try to bluff them, because they
will call you even if they have marginal hands.)
3. Confuse the Stupid - If a player simply doesn't know the game and has no real
talent, you can simply outplay them. However, you need to clash with these
players early, before someone else takes all their chips.
4. Trick The Cocky - No one likes cocky players, and you can use their vanity to
your advantage. Once you win one pot against one of these players, you can
put them on "revenge tilt." They are going to want revenge so badly that they
will try to buy pots off you all night. Take advantage of this by waiting until you
pick up good cards, then let him waste his money.
5. Outplay the Amateurs - Most of the suckers at a table simply haven't played
a lot of poker before, so you should be able to outplay this type no problem.
There isn't any single method to take these players, but they tend to play too
tight and you can usually bluff them out of their chips.
By learning to identify and bankrupt the sucker at your table, you will jump out
to a huge chip lead at the beginning of a game, and then you can use that lead
to gain momentum and steadily increase that lead throughout the night.
How to Stop Losing Big Hands
I have something important to share with you.
This single poker strategy that I'm about to reveal is one of the BEST (and most
PROFITABLE) tips that I've given you in a long time, so listen up:
When it comes to winning poker, most players have "tunnel vision." What I
mean is this: They focus only on how to WIN more pots and larger pots;
whether it's through bluffing, calculating odds, or reading poker tells.
But what they DON'T FOCUS ON, (what I'm about to show you), is actually MORE
important than 90% of all the other "stuff and can both INSTANTLY and
DRAMATICALLY increase your poker winnings over the long term.
And that secret is this:
STOP LOSING Big Pots
You see, there's a lot of strategies out there for how to WIN hands, but very
rarely does a player focus on strategies on how to NOT LOSE big hands.
Why?

Because they blame THAT PART of the game on luck and other forces "out of
their control." The reality is, you can win tons of great hands and gain a chip
lead, but it doesn't mean ANYTHING if you don't know how to keep it.
Think back to when Greg Raymer won the World Series of Poker. What was the
key to his success at the final table? The key was he had a huge chip lead AND
he knew how to keep it. He didn't lose big hands, which is what allowed him to
keep his gigantic stack of chips and bully the other guys around.
The concept is equally (if not MORE) important for players who AREN'T in the
chip lead, because no matter how many pots you win, you won't win a game or
tournament if you LOSE a lot of big hands.
Notice the "catch" here. I didn't say, "Stop losing hands." I said, "Stop losing BIG
hands." Because those two statements mean two TOTALLY different things.
You CANNOT stop losing ALL hands - it's just not realistic. But you CAN use
strategies to stop losing BIG hands AND those are the more important "turning
points" of a game anyway.
So, what's this "hidden" secret strategy that most players overlook that will allow
you to STOP losing big pots?
I thought you'd never ask...
Preventing major losses is a very complicated and "multi-layered" concept, as I
explain in my course. However, one of the MAJOR components and "core"
strategies behind it can be summed up in one simple, 12-letter word:
ANTICIPATION.
That's right, you can literally cut down on the number of big hands you lose by
simply ANTICIPATING better. And I don't mean anticipating the CARDS. I mean
anticipating THE BETS, based on what cards COULD come out of the deck.
Here's an example that will make it clear: Let's say you're on the button and
dealt A, J off-suit. The blinds are $1-2 and Aaron (a very tight player) makes it
$15 to play. Everyone at the table folds and the action is to you. This is the
best hand you've seen in awhile, so you call the bet without much hesitation.
That is where you made your FIRST MISTAKE.
You KNOW that Aaron is a very tight player that only makes pre-flop raises with
monster hands. But you called the bet anyway, because you didn't ANTICIPATE
what YOU would do, even if you hit your ace on the flop.
OK, so the flop hits, and the cards are: A, 9, 2. Aaron comes out firing with a
$30 bet right away. Now what do you do?

You have to put him on AK, AQ, AA, KK, or QQ. These are pretty much the only
hands that Aaron will make a pre-flop raise with. Of course, he didn't check to
you, so he probably doesn't have the cowboys or queens. So now you think
about what Aaron is holding. You put him on hands that beat yours, but instead
of folding you decide to see another card for $30.
This is where you made your SECOND MISTAKE.
You felt pot-committed and only thought about the $30 bet. What you SHOULD
have been doing though is ANTICIPATING what Aaron was going to bet after the
turn card. Let's face it, you have to figure he's going to fire again. Are you
prepared to call ANOTHER large bet after the turn with youre A,J?
Of course not! And what you've done here is simply dug yourself into a big hole
because you played only to win. You got dealt a good hand and flopped the top
pair and then stuck it out in hopes of a better card. When what you SHOULD
have done is ANTICIPATED Aaron's behavior and folded your cards before the
flop.
Hands like these happen to even the best poker players, and you MUST develop
the discipline to fold that AJ and fold that top pair when you've anticipated
what's coming next.
Think about what your opponent is going to bet.
Think about what you'll be WILLING to bet.
Then, think about what will happen after the next cards and then the ones after
that...and then the ones after THAT...and so on. It's all about anticipation. If you
anticipate the different scenarios BEFORE they happen, you will prevent big
losses. And when you stop losing big hands, you'll get to KEEP the chips you
win. And that will help you finish in the money virtually every time and lead you
to a successful poker career.
Of course, like I mentioned earlier, anticipation is just ONE of the crucial skills
you'll need in order to kick ass at Texas Holdem poker.
How to Stop Losing Big Hands 2
We talked about why it's CRUCIAL that you learn to ANTICIPATE your bets and
your opponents' bets BEFORE they happen. I'd like to share with your part TWO
of how to prevent big losses and that is:
DON'T GET GREEDY.
Successful poker players all have one thing in common:
They understand the PSYCHOLOGY of greed, and how powerful it really is. Let
me share a story with you how *I* fell victim to greed the other night at my local

$1-2 no-limit game and how it emptied my pockets. Here's how it went down. I
get dealt pocket 6's and am sixth to act. Josh is first to act and makes it $5 to
play. Drew and Brett are next in line and call Josh's pre-flop raise. The action is
to me, with the pot size at $18. There's no doubt I'll play this one and hope to
spike one of my sixes. One other guy behind me calls the bet. Okay, flop
comes out: Ah, 9d, 6s. Perfect.
I've just spiked my 6's and there's an ace on the board, which I'm sure someone
is holding. It looks like I'm going to rake a HUGE pot at this point.
Josh comes out firing, as I expect. I immediately put him on AK or AQ. Brett
folds and Drew calls Josh's $20 bet. Who knows what Drew has; I can never put
him on a hand because he's the maniac at the table. He'll play just about
anything. He's probably sitting on 10-J, looking for a runner-runner straight
draw for all I know.
Needless to say, he's not the guy I'm worried about. Actually, I'm not really
worried about ANYONE at this point. I just flopped trips and all I'm thinking
about is how to milk these guys for all their money.
I decide to not slow-play the hand. I want to find out where I'm at so I re-raise
Josh's bet. I'm confident I'll get a call. I know Josh won't fold if he has the ace,
like I think.
"Make it $50", I say, as I push in my red chips. The guy behind me folds and the
action is back to Josh. He thinks for awhile as he shuffles his chips. "I call", he
says. Drew, however, doesn't hesitate one bit. He throws in his chips with some
frustration and splashes the pot.
I've done everything right so far. I'm very well-positioned to rake in a huge pot.
The turn card comes...4 of diamonds. Now the board reads: Ah, 9d, 6s, 4d
So, the 4 doesn't scare me at all. Josh and Drew both check this time because
I'm in control. "Seventy five" I say, in a rather DEMANDING voice that makes it
sound like I'm trying to buy the pot. Josh mucks his hands, which he later told
me was an A,J. So, he made a good lay down. Drew, on the other hand, thinks
for a moment before calling my $75 bet. Now I'm feeling GREAT about this
hand.
Josh was the guy I was really worried about, not Drew. Drew's probably got
pocket 2s or something crazy like that. Who knows?
The river card is a 2 of diamonds. Now I hope Drew DOES have ducks! If he
does, I'm going to take the rest of his stack. The board now reads: Ah, 9d, 6s,
4d, 2d Drew checks to me. I see the backdoor flush on the board, but I throw
out another large bet anyway.
AND THAT'S WHERE I SCREWED UP.

I SHOULD have checked right behind Drew when I saw the flush on the board.
Instead, I got GREEDY and made a stupid bet because I figured there was NO
WAY he chased the flush all the way down. Drew raises my large bet by going
all in, and he seems confident. I lean back in my chair and take a deep breath.
Then I call, with the remainder of my stack. He turns over a 7-8 of diamonds.
He's got the flush, which beats my trip sixes.
So, he had flopped an open-ended straight draw and ended up catching the
flush instead. I had played the hand perfectly right until the backdoor flush hit.
THAT is when I let greed take over. I had made another bet when Drew checked
to me, but I SHOULD have just checked back.
If I hadn't let greed take over, I would have saved a lot of chips, and stayed in
the game. Greed is a powerful emotion that can empty your pockets...just like it
emptied mine.
But of course, you can use greed to your ADVANTAGE. Because once you have
your OWN greed under control, you can learn to make positioning moves and
bets based on the greed of OTHER players. You can literally COUNT on the fact
that your opponents will get greedy too.
How to Dominate the Table
Have you ever lost a huge pot because you had a flush draw or straight draw
and didn't catch the card you needed? It's happened to all of us. And frankly, it
sucks. Because when you're on a draw, you're just ONE CARD AWAY from raking
in a ton of chips. And you WANT to keep calling everyone else's bets, in hopes
that your card will pop out on the turn or river. Am I right?
Of course, what ends up happening is you have to put a ton of your chips in the
middle just to call everyone else's bets. That makes you pot-committed and if
you DON'T catch your card, you're screwed.
Not let me ask you...Wouldn't it be WONDERFUL if every time you were on a draw
all the other players would CHECK around? That way you didn't have to risk any
chips, and could bet only after you KNEW for sure whether or not you caught
your card. That sure would be nice, wouldn't it? AND...What if there was a way
to STILL WIN THE HAND even if you DIDN'T catch your card? That'd be nice too,
huh?
Luckily, there IS a technique you can use to make BOTH of these things happen.
Let me show you how.
OK, so let's say I'm at an 8-person no-limit table and I'm sixth to act. I'm dealt a
5-6 of diamonds. Josh comes out firing with a $10 pre-flop bet. Sarah and
Derek both call. Now it's on me. I love suited connectors; especially busting my
opponents with them unexpectedly, so I jump in and call.

The players behind me muck their cards right away scared to death of so much
action. The flop hits: 4d, 9s, 7d
That means I've just flopped an open-ended flush straight draw. I couldn't have
asked for a better flop in this situation. Unfortunately, Josh comes out firing
(again) with a no-hesitation bet of $20. Sarah and Derek both FOLD this time...
And the action is to me. I'm putting Josh on a high pocket pair, or maybe A9 or
A7. And he's figuring the scraps on the board didn't help anyone, hence the
strong bet. Which puts me in a tough situation.
Think about it, If I CALL, I might miss my flush or straight on the turn card.
Then what? Josh will make another strong bet. What will I do then? And if I call
to see the river and miss, then I'll have just given Josh most of my chips and lost
a major hand.
On the other hand, I don't want to FOLD, because I have a ton of outs and I want
to WIN this! Now let me ask you, what would YOU do in this situation?
Most amateur card players don't think ahead, and they'd call Josh's $20 bet. And
if they missed on the turn, they'd call another bet to see the river. And if they
missed on the river, they'd probably fold, watch Josh rake in all the chips, and
wonder why they "never catch the right cards".
Now a more skillful player would ANTICIPATE what's about to happen and would
probably call to see the turn, but then fold if Josh bet again. And of course,
there are always the tight players who would never have played the 5-6 of
diamonds in the FIRST place.
So what do I do?
Remember, I'm sitting on 5-6 of diamonds. The board reads: 4d, 9s, 7d. And
Josh, who made a strong pre-flop raise, just bet $20 after the flop. Here's the
answer...I RAISE. Not some wimpy raise either; I raise him $40 more to play.
Most players would NEVER think to raise in this situation, but here's what I've
done:
1. I've TAKEN CONTROL of the hand and bought myself a FREE CARD when it
matters most. You see, if Josh calls the $40 raise, when the turn hits he'll
CHECK to me. (Remember what I said at the beginning?)
That means I get to see the turn and river for a total of $40 more, which is a
BARGAIN compared to what Josh's next bet would have cost me.
2. I'm representing possible trips. Josh now has to wonder whether I called his
pre-flop raise with a low pocket pair and just caught trips on the flop. Or I could
be sitting on a high pocket pair and I'm not "phased" by the flop.
3. I've raised the stakes of the hand in MY favor...not his. You see, if I just call
Josh's bets and then hit a 8 of diamonds on the turn, what will happen?

Well, Josh will SEE the three diamonds and the straight possibility, and he
probably won't make any more huge bets or call any huge bets from me.
This way, I've raised the stakes $40, which increases MY CHANCES at winning an
even bigger pot than if I had just called. Make sense?
And last but not least...
4. I've given myself a way to WIN even if I don't catch the straight or flush. Now
I get to see Josh's reaction to my $40 raise. If I sense weakness, I may decide to
BLUFF and buy this pot if I don't catch my flush or straight.
If I only call Josh's bets the whole way, he wouldnt fall for this type of bluff. But
my raise of $40 will sure get him thinking.
OKAY, BACK TO THE HAND...
Josh shuffles his chips around for a moment, and looks back down at his cards.
It turns out he's holding an A9; so he's got top pair with the kicker. A good
hand, but not a monster by any means.
He calls.
The next card comes out. Queen of spades. No help. Josh checks.
THAT WAS IMPORTANT. This is my "free card" opportunity that my $40 raise
bought. Now I'm in complete control and feeling pretty good about this hand. I
can check and see the river for free. I've still got a lot of outs here. Or I can bet
STRONG and try to scare Josh away.
"One hundred dollars", I say, as I push a huge stack of red chips into the middle.
True, I only have a queen high and the beginner card player may think this type
of play is crazy. But then again, that's why they're called "BEGINNERS".
Anyway, Josh thinks for a minute and then mucks it. I rake in a beautiful pot.
Even if Josh had called, I still had a good number of outs. And if I missed, I
could have tried to bluff again. Now think back to when the flop came out.
After Josh bet $20, what if I had called? (And not raised.)
Well, here's what would have happened...
The queen would have came and Josh would've immediately fired a huge $80
bet. I would've had to either call the $80 to see the river, or muck my beautiful
straight flush draw. And THAT, my friend, is why it's CRUCIAL that you TAKE
CONTROL of the game.
This type of technique allows you to truly DOMINATE THE TABLES and win more
money playing poker. Period.

That's what makes Texas Holdem such a fascinating game. There are just so
many scenarios that can occur, and so many special "tricks" and "techniques"
you can use to beat the competition.
How to Play Big Slick in Late Position
Big Slick has the reputation for being a MONSTER hand. A hand that most
players LOVE to get dealt. And with good reason. After all, it's got a TON of
potential. Think about it:
If you have Big Slick and a king or ace hit the board, you've automatically got
top pair. And not only that, but you've also automatically got the highest kicker
possible. And Big Slick is connected, which means it has the POTENTIAL to
become the highest STRAIGHT on the board.
Then again, if you're an experienced poker player, then you KNOW that Big Slick
is often HIGHLY OVERRATED by most amateurs and beginners.
Because if you REALLY think about it, Big Slick by itself is NOT a good hand. By
itself, it's an ace high with a king. Period.
It can be beat by just about ANYTHING from a flush to a 3-of-a-kind to a pair of
deuces. What Big Slick has is the POTENTIAL to be a great hand, but that
doesn't mean it IS a great hand. And this distinction is VERY important in order
to learn how to play your AK properly.
If you play Big Slick the RIGHT way, you can with it at least 75% of the time. If
you play it the WRONG way, you'll end up losing all your chips and whining
about your bad beat. The decision is yours.
So, let's approach our strategy for Big Slick with LATE positioning; which is the
equivalent to GOOD positioning, as you know.
Since the hand can get run down easily, your strategy is to GET RID of as many
players as possible BEFORE THE FLOP. In other words, SCARE AWAY everyone
who doesn't have a pair or face cards. If you let too many players stay in,
someone with rags is bound to catch great cards on the flop and steal your chip
stack. But if you go up against players with face cards, then YOU have the
advantage and the odds are in YOUR favor.
This is accomplished, of course, with a pre-flop raise, which will also give you
control over the table as you'll see in a minute. Let's use a real-life hand I played
to demonstrate. This is from last night, actually.
I was in a $1-2 no-limit game and got AK on the button. Drew was first to act
and made it $7 to play. The action went around the table and every single one
of the next five players called. Now the action was to me.
How would you handle this situation? Call, raise, or fold?

The correct answer is RAISE. "Make it another $50", I say. And here's why:
Let's say I call. That means there are SEVEN guys in the hand. Amateurs might
say, "Oh, that means there's more money in the pot."
NO. WRONG. With seven players, I am virtually GUARANTEED to have my AK run
down... because EVEN IF I catch a king or ace, there's a good chance someone
else will hit a flush, straight, trips, or two pair. And besides, CALLING doesn't
give me any idea where I stand in the hand, and it doesn't allow me to know
what to put my opponents on.
So, I make the pre-flop re-raise. The other players fold, and Drew calls. That
means I know he has a real hand. He wasn't just bullying the table. It also
means he probably doesn't have cowboys or rockets, because if he did he
would've come back over the top of me, maybe with an all-in.
So, now I've got a read on my opponent, and I've forced out all the other guys,
which means I don't have to worry about someone getting "lucky" on the flop.
AND, I've achieved something else here: I've taken control of the table. Instead
of Drew coming out firing after the flop, he'll probably check to me to see what I
do. This gives me control. If I miss on the flop, I can do one of two things:
1. I can see a free card. Or..
2. If I'm confident with my read on Drew I can try to buy him out by representing
a big hand.
And sure enough...the flop hits: 9, 4, 2
What an UGLY flop, right? Actually, I kind of like this flop. Because I'm pretty
sure Drew doesn't have any of these cards on the board. He could be holding
pocket 9's, but I can't put him on 4's or 2's, because of my strong re-raise
before the flop.
I'm putting him on two over cards or a pair. It actually wouldn't surprise me if
he has Big Slick, just like me. Anyway, now it's time to find out, because Drew
taps his fist against the table and checks to me. Just like I expected. I COULD
see a free card here, but I'd rather play this aggressively and find out EXACTLY
where I'm at.
If Drew calls a strong bet from me, then he's probably slow-playing trips. If
that's the case, I'll back off after the turn card and minimize my losses. I throw
out a $100 black chip with my ace high. Drew looks at his down cards for a few
moments and then decides to muck his pocket 8's for the world to see.
"Yea, I had kings", I say as I turn my cards face down for NOBODY to see. Drew
replies, "Yup, that's what I put you on" and he nods his head. Little does he
know, his 8's had me beat, and I just stole a nice pot.
That's how you play Big Slick the RIGHT way in late position. You've got to:

1. Scare away as many players as you can before the flop.

2. Take control of the board and action.
3. Find out where you're at in the hand.
Even if Drew (or anyone else) came back over the top of me after my pre-flop
raise, I'd be okay. Because then I could put my opponent on aces or kings,
muck my Big Slick, and live to see another hand without catching a "bad beat."
So, play AK aggressively when you've got good positioning, and back up your
pre-flop raise with a post-flop raise, even if you've hit nothing on the board. Of
course, you can't play Big Slick like this in every position. This is simply how
you play it with good positioning.
How to Win With Big Slick in Early Position
Let's discuss how to win when you're dealt Big Slick (Ace, King) in an early
position. First, let me clarify what is meant by the term "early position". If
you're in an early position, it usually means you're one of the first three players
to the LEFT of the dealer. Of course, if you're small blind, that means you're
almost last to act before the flop, but first to act AFTER the flop.
If you're big blind, that means you're last to act pre-flop, but second to act after
the flop. And last but not least, if you're the THIRD player to the left, that
means you are the FIRST to act before the flop, and third to act after the flop.
This position is also known as "under the gun".
Ok. Enough with the definitions. Re-read those four above paragraphs if you're
confused. Otherwise, let's dive into the strategies.
As we discussed a few days ago, Big Slick is a "monster" hand that most players
pray for, BUT it can actually be a TERRIBLE hand for you if you don't know what
you're doing. It can be terrible if...
1. You go "all in" (or bet a substantial pile of chips) before the flop, but then
don't catch anything. Or...
2. You catch an ace or king on the flop, bet a lot of chips, but then get run down
by another player who gets a better hand.
Since even a pair of DEUCES can beat Big Slick by itself, I recommend that you
don't go all-in with Big Slick before the flop. It's just too risky. Because there
are so many hands that can beat you. Going all-in with Big Slick pre-flop is the
equivalent to saying, "Hey, I'm not that confident I can win this game, so I'm
going to HOPE to get LUCKY and risk all my chips on the CHANCE that an ace or
king hits, or that my ace high wins."

Obviously that's not ALWAYS the case, but for the most part it's pretty accurate.
The second scenario, getting run down by another player even though you hit
your ace or king, can be EXTREMELY frustrating.
For example, let's say you're holding Big Slick and the flop comes out A, K, 5.
You're obviously excited because you flopped top two pair, but what if Marty,
that new guy who just learned how to play Holdem a couple weeks ago, is
holding a pair of fives?
Chances are; he's going to clean you out for all your chips. Your strategy then
should be to DECREASE the chances that someone at the table (like Marty) is
going to get lucky on the flop. And you do that by making sure they don't even
SEE the flop in the first place, by making a pre-flop raise or strong bet.
The ultimate goal should be to create "heads-up" action before the flop when
you get dealt Big Slick. Force players like Marty to fold before the flop hits.
That will prevent the "bad beats" and allow you to focus on a single opponent.
The most difficult way to win with Big Slick is if you're in an early position AND
you don't catch anything good on the flop.
Here's how I play it:
Let's say I'm "under the gun" (first to act before the flop, third player to the left
of the dealer) in a no-limit cash game.
I look down to see AK of diamonds. Great hand, terrible positioning. Instead of
limping in and letting all the crap hands at the table see the flop, I make a raise
as we discussed. "$15 to play."
Some players will limp-in with AK when they're first to act, hoping someone ELSE
will make the raise for them (which gives them the chance to re-raise).
I don't like this strategy. Because if someone else makes the initial raise, that
means they get control over the table and betting.
For example, let's say I limp-in and Josh makes it $25 to play. Everyone else
folds and then I come back over the top of him for $100 more. Without
hesitation, Josh goes all-in and pushes in his stack of $350 in chips. See how
this could get ugly?
Josh may be holding pocket 9's for all I know, which WILL BEAT me if I don't
catch the right cards on the flop. Then again, he might be holding a pair of face
cards or maybe just A, J. No matter what, I really don't care. Because I don't
want to risk all my chips on AK and leave my night up to chance. As much as
possible, I want to be in FULL CONTROL of my destiny at the card table.
There will inevitably be players who are more reckless with their chips and
these are the players who rely on LUCK more than SKILL. But not me, I know I
can beat the game, which is why I don't limp-in here when I'm first to act with
Big Slick.

OK, back to the hand...

"$15 to play", I repeat. I'm hoping to get just one caller; or two at the most.
The action goes around the table, and everyone mucks their hands except for
Drew. He splashes the pot and calls.
So, I've created heads-up action and taken control of the betting exactly as I
wanted to do with my monster hand in this position.
The flop hits: 2h, 9d, 7s. I'm first to act. Obviously, this flop is terrible... the
best thing I've got going is a possible runner/runner diamonds draw.
So what do I do now?
Should I check my ace high?
No. This is where you should fire AGAIN, and continue to play aggressively...
Because the flop probably didn't help Drew either.
If I CHECK, Drew will sense my weakness and might try to steal the pot. My bet
will give him the impression I'm on an over-pair and have the best hand, so he'll
probably muck his cards now. Even if he calls, I'm still in good shape. If the turn
card doesn't help me, I'll back down and minimize my losses. I DON'T want to
dig myself in a deeper hole and try to bluff it out.
Or I may catch my top pair on the turn or river and be able to win that way.
So no matter what happens, I'm not risking too many chips and I'm putting
myself in a great position to win the hand.
Now, rewind for just a moment. What if my $15 pre-flop bet had multiple
callers?
Having multiple players in the game would have increased the odds that
someone actually benefited from the 2, 9, 7 flop.
Which means I would NOT have made a strong bet after the flop. Instead, I
would have backed down and just checked. If someone else bet strong, I would
have mucked my A, K and lived to see another hand.
So THAT is how you play Big Slick under the worst of circumstances... with
scraps on the board and bad positioning... and STILL have a great chance at
winning a nice pot.
Of course... the chances of getting AK are just 1 in 83. And the odds of getting
AK suited are just 1 in 332. And that doesn't even factor in the odds related to
your positioning.

How to Win WITHOUT Great Cards

331 to 1.
Those are the odds AGAINST getting dealt an Ace and a King suited before the
flop.
220 to 1.
Those are the odds AGAINST getting pocket Aces before the flop. Monster hands
like these are GREAT when you catch them and you'll definitely have a good shot
at raking in a killer pot.
But the fact is, when you play poker you WON'T catch monsters very often.
The same is true with wired pairs and suited connectors...
When you hit with one of these hands, your opponents will usually NEVER see it
coming...
And once again, you'll rake in a nice pot.
But how many times do you get hands like these AND hit the right cards? Not
too often. ANYONE, no matter what their skill level, can win a pot with a
monster.
The SECRET to poker success, my friend, is learning how to win hands WITHOUT
having the "nuts" or great cards.
It's what separates the AVERAGE card players from the poker LEGENDS.
So how do you play hands that are DECENT, but not GREAT? Hands like QJ, J10,
9-10, Q10, K10, K9, and so on.
If you FOLD every time you see cards like these, you're playing too tight.
Because you're going to see these types of hands A LOT.
To WIN... consistently... at Texas Holdem poker, you've got to learn how to WIN
with hands that AREN'T great.
But how?
I'll tell you how...
The key is POSITIONING. That's the magic word. In Texas Holdem, positioning
is EVERYTHING.
You can see a hand in one position and the right play is to FOLD it... And then
see the SAME EXACT HAND in a different position and the right play is to make a
BET.

For example, let's say you're in an 8-player no-limit Holdem game... where the
blinds are $1-2.
You're first to act before the flop (a.k.a. "under the gun") and look down at your
cards:
Queen and a jack... offsuit. What do you do?
Playing the hand shouldn't cross your mind.
Calling with a Q, J offsuit can easily turn into TROUBLE when first to act.
Because SOMEONE at your 8-man table is probably going to throw out a pre-flop
raise.
Think about it.
How many times does the action go COMPLETELY around the table before the
flop without SOMEONE making a raise? Not too often.
Even if it's just a small $5 raise, you don't want to pay $7 with your Q, J offsuit
just to see the flop.
After all, even if you HIT top pair, you're STILL going to be one of the first to act,
if not THE first. What then?
Your kicker isn't too strong, and you don't have a read on the other players.
It's just a bad situation to be in.
Which is why I muck "decent" hands like these when I'm under the gun or in an
early position.
And you should too.
Now let's say you're fourth to act before the flop (sixth position at the table) and
you peek down at a Queen, 10 offsuit.
You're positioning isn't great, but it's not too bad either. The action is on you to
call the $2 big blind. What do you do?
Instead of mucking, this is where I'd limp in and call the blind.
The key is to pay $2. Don't raise it. You've got a good chance at seeing the flop
for just $2 and you won't have to act first after the flop hits.
Even if someone throws out a small pre-flop raise, you can call and see a cheap
flop without getting into too much trouble.

Now let's say you're on the BUTTON (dealer position) with a Queen, Jack offsuit.
Four of your opponents limp-in and the action is to you.
What's the play?
This is where I'd make a pre-flop raise. Nothing crazy... just a small $5 that's not
going to get me into trouble.
And I'll do this with any good positioning, not just when I'm on the button.
Here's why:
First, it gets rid of the "crap" hands at the table. Anytime you can force the
scraps at the table to fold, your odds of winning the pot increase. (The reason
you don't want them in the hand is in case one of them gets lucky on the flop.)
Second, I get to see what my opponents do AFTER the flop... before I have to
act.
This is a HUGE advantage. I can get a read on everyone else's hand... and NO
ONE gets a read on mine. Use this advantage EVERY chance you get.
And third, my bet gives me relative control over the table and is likely to result
in a free card if I want one.
Let's say the flop hits 9,10,2 (an open-ended straight draw with my QJ).
There's a good chance my opponents will CHECK, because they anticipate
another bet from me.
So I'm in a win-win situation...
I can throw out a semi-bluff bet or I can see a free card by checking.
Getting control over the board also puts me in a position to buy the pot if I
sense weakness at the table.
Which brings me to another point. Positioning is a fundamental part of Texas
Holdem, but you had better have a good read on your opponents in order to
win the hand.
And you'd better know the right size to make your bets and what to do if there's
a draw on the board and how to bluff if you get into trouble.
How to Get a Read on Your Opponents
The BIGGEST MISTAKE you can make while playing no-limit Texas Holdem is to
focus too much on your cards.

If you're playing draw, stud, limit, or any other form of poker, then it's important
to concentrate on MATHEMATICAL ODDS and PROBABILITIES.
But no-limit Holdem is different. MUCH different. You can be a math WIZARD
and know the odds of every possible scenario in the deck, but it won't do you
much good at the no-limit table.
Hell, you can even know how to COUNT CARDS, but I'll still knock your socks off
and take your rent money if you face me heads-up.
Because no-limit Holdem is a game of PSYCHOLOGY. To win, you must learn
how to play the PLAYERS, not the CARDS.
The reason no-limit Holdem is so different from other types of poker is because
it's possible to bluff HUGE pots and go ALL-IN.
And the only thing that separates YOU from your OPPONENT is just two downfaced cards that are dealt at the beginning of each hand.
That's it. Just two cards.
The reality is this...
No-limit Holdem is PSYCHOLOGICAL WARFARE, and if you want to WIN, you've
got to learn how to get INSIDE THE HEADS of your opponents.
You've got to know them better than they know themselves and predict their
every move.
But how?
There are a lot of strategies and techniques around identifying "poker tells".
A poker TELL is a habit or mannerism of a player that is a "giveaway" to the
strength or weakness of their hand.
Like a twitch of the nose, a crack in the voice, a shaky leg, or a rapid pulse.
Tells like these are IMPORTANT.
And you must learn how to spot them and take advantage of them.
But there's one tell that's MUCH, MUCH MORE IMPORTANT and it has NOTHING
to do with body language, voice, or mannerisms.
In fact, this tell is technically not even classified as a "tell". But it WILL give you a
read on your opponents.
What am I talking about? BETTING.

Stay with me here.

BETTING is the KEY to getting a read on your opponents.
It is through BETTING that you find out the strength or weakness of another
player's hand, which is how you WIN in no-limit Texas Holdem.
BETTING is how you get inside your the heads of your opponents. Especially the
ones you've never met or played against before.
Now, I'm not talking about just ANY kind of betting. I'm talking about the bets
YOUR OPPONENTS make IN RESPONSE TO THE CONDITIONS AT THE TABLE.
Think about online poker, as an example.
How do the pros quickly and consistently win at ONLINE POKER where you can't
even SEE your opponents?
That's right. The answer is BETTING.
You've got to watch and STUDY what each player does in response to the action.
This is true no matter WHERE you play no-limit Holdem, whether it's online, at
home, in a casino, or in a tournament.
Now notice how I said IN RESPONSE to the action. This is the key. Because you
can't get a good read on an opponent every time they make a bet.
The best time to get a read is when they have to REACT TO ACTION AT THE
TABLE. When they have to make a DECISION. Because this is the time when
they're NOT in control of the hand... For example, let's say the action is to Drew
to call a $10 bet. Does he fold, call, or raise? Does he hesitate, or immediately
make a decision?
If he makes a raise, he's representing a good hand, and takes control of the
action.
If he hesitates and then calls, there's a good chance his hand is weak.
If he immediately calls, he may have something or be on a draw. You get the
point.
You can get a read on your opponent when your opponent has to REACT TO
ACTION.
Unfortunately, your opponent won't always HAVE TO react to action at the table.
In fact, your opponent will often take CONTROL of the action and force YOU to
make a decision.

Which means everyone will get the chance to get a read on YOU... And that is
NOT what you want. So how do you counter this?
How do take control of the action AND force your opponent to a decision?
The answer is this: FEELER BETS. Feeler bets are bets made in order to "see
where you're at" in the hand.
They're named "FEELER bets" because they allow you to "feel" out the strength or
weakness of your opponents.
And they're a CRUCIAL part of becoming good at Texas Holdem poker. Let me
demonstrate with an example.
Let's say you're fifth to act in a $1-2 no-limit game at a 10-man table.
You've got over $200 in your stack. You look down at pocket nines. You're not
too excited about your position right here, but you've been on fire the whole
game. The action is on to you to call the blinds.
This is where you make a FEELER BET which would be a pre-flop raise in this
situation.
"$10 to play", you say as you splash the pot with ten white $1 chips. This feeler
bet accomplishes four things:
1. You get to find out who's strong and who's not.
2. You get control of the action at the table.
3. You're not allowing your opponents to get a good read on you.
4. You're getting a read on your opponents by forcing them to make a decision.
Okay, so let's say the action around the table continues as Nathan and Gregwho are both sitting left of you- call your raise.
The next few players muck their hands, and then Cindy, who is just to your
right, jumps into the action and calls.
You really didn't want this much action with your pocket nines.
But hey, you've built up a nice pot, and you might get lucky and spike on the
flop. Plus, everyone simply called your pre-flop raise (no one came back over
the top), which is a good sign.
The flop hits: K, 7, 4. Not too great of a flop for you, but not that bad either.
You would feel a lot better off without that King on the board.

Cindy, first to act right now, taps her hand on the table and checks to you.
This isn't surprising, since you took control before the flop. So the action is to
you. This is where most poker players would CHECK. Big mistake. Right now,
you have absolutely NO WAY of knowing who has the best hand at the table.
And that is PRECISELY why you must make a feeler bet. Think about it:
If you CHECK, you're portraying weakness to your three opponents, letting them
know that the flop didn't help you.
Which gives one of THEM the opportunity to make a bet or try to buy the pot.
And you still won't know where you stand.
So instead of checking, you throw out a small FEELER BET that isn't going to get
you into much trouble.
This isn't a bluff.
This is just a bet to find out who has a real hand and who doesn't. And it keeps
you in a position to WIN the pot.
"Thirteen dollars", you say as you push in a stack of chips.
Remember, this FEELER BET isn't going to get you into trouble. You're not going
broke if you lose this pot, because you've got over $200 in your stack of chips.
And this is the ONLY WAY you've got a chance at winning this hand. Nathan and
Greg both immediately muck their cards. The action goes to Cindy now, who
thinks for a few moments while peeking at her hand a second time. Finally, she
calls your bet.
Your feeler bet worked well. You got rid of two players and you've got a read on
Cindy now.
Because she called, you think she might be on a draw or might have the King
without a decent kicker. The turn card is an Ace. This is GREAT for you.
It's great because you made that feeler bet. Because you're confident that Cindy
is NOT holding an Ace. If she had Big Slick, she would've made a pre-flop raise,
rather than simply limping-in and calling your feeler bets.
She checks again.
This is where you can take the pot down with a real bet.
"Forty dollars", you say as you push in a stack of chips.

Cindy folds, of course, and you rake in a nice pot all of which was SET UP
through your two feeler bets.
If you hadn't made your feeler bets, there's no way you would've won the hand.
Because you wouldn't have scared out the other players, you wouldn't have
created good positioning for yourself and you wouldn't have had a read on
Cindy.
This is why I make feeler bets all the time and why you should too.
I throw out "feelers" with top pair, second pair, bottom pair, or draws.
These bets are the only way I know whether I have the best hand at any
particular point in time.
Sure, I get re-raised often. And that's when I fold the hand and lose the bet I just
put in.
BUT THAT'S OKAY.
Because I found out EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED TO KNOW.
If you get re-raised after a feeler bet, then you know you probably don't have the
best hand at the table, so muck it.
Losing the few dollars you made with your feeler bet is perfectly fine because
it's MUCH BETTER than just CALLING bet after bet without getting a read on your
opponents and then losing after all the cards get flipped over.
That's a SUCKER way to lose a pot. And you'll go broke that way. Plus, my feeler
bets give me CONTROL and create ACTION at the table.
If a nine had come out at the flop in the example above, I wouldn't have needed
to slow-play it. And I wouldn't have been worried about having a monster and
not winning any money with it (which happens to a LOT of amateurs) because I
had already created action with my FEELER BET.
So the next time you play no-limit Texas Holdem, throw out feeler bets
consistently and use them to your advantage.
Nothing too big, just enough to get a read on your opponents and find out
where you're at in each hand.
You'll IMMEDIATELY realize the POWERFUL EFFECT that feeler bets will add to
your game.
Because you'll have HUGE stacks of chips in front of you at the end of the night.
While EVERYONE ELSE will just be sitting there, with their jaws wide open,
wondering how in the world YOU BEAT THEM SO BADLY.

How to Win Against Anyone

The trick to WINNING POKER is to always be at least ONE STEP AHEAD of your
opponents. To be one step ahead, it helps to understand the COMMON
EXPERIENCES and thoughts that every poker player goes through.
It seems to me that there are three distinct LEVELS of poker intelligence.
Knowing which level your opponent falls under can be a MAJOR ADVANTAGE for
you at the table.
I call these the "Three Stages of Sophistication".
As you read these, think about the guys you play cards with.
Think about what level they're at AND think about which stage YOU ARE IN right
now. It will help tremendously.
Here they are...
STAGE 1: Analyzing the CARDS.
This is when a player focuses his mental energies strictly on the cards.
This is someone who waits to play only premium hands, and perhaps spends a
lot of time calculating "pot odds".
Usually, this type of guy plays TIGHT, and is fairly "see through". He'd be better
off playing LIMIT Texas Holdem rather than NO-LIMIT.
STAGE 2: Analyzing the PLAYERS.
This is the person who understands that to win at no-limit Holdem, you've got
to PLAY THE PLAYERS, not just the cards.
This is the guy who sits there all night and STUDIES your every move. He's
convinced that there are "secret tells" behind every player. And he'll do
ANYTHING to figure them out.
You can spot a player like this just by watching him when the cards come out. If
he's watching YOU, rather than looking at his cards, then he's probably in the
second stage of sophistication.
STAGE 3: Analyzing how players will analyze YOU.
Stage 1 players are easy to beat. You can bluff them out of big pots, rile them
up, and then sit back until you catch a monster and put them all in.
It's like taking candy from a baby.

Stage 2 players are harder to beat, because they understand the Cardinal Rule of
no-limit Holdem, which is to PLAY THE PLAYERS, NOT THE CARDS.
You can't always push them around at the table, which means you have to
devise a different strategy.
Which is why Stage 3 is so powerful.
Because when you're a Stage 3 player, you KNOW that the Stage 2 player is
analyzing you. And you simply stay ONE STEP AHEAD of him.
A Stage 3 player is someone who gets pocket Aces before the flop and takes
FOREVER to call a pre-flop raise.
Why?
Because by taking his time and making it LOOK like he's contemplating a
decision, the Stage 3 player knows HIS OPPONENTS WILL THINK THEY CAN BLUFF
HIM out of the hand.
Sure enough, after the flop one of the STAGE 2 players will go all-in, trying to
buy the pot, not knowing they just fell right into the Stage 3 player's trap.
To be a Stage 3 player, you've got to ADOPT YOUR STYLE OF PLAY ACCORDING
TO WHAT THE OTHER PLAYERS THINK ABOUT YOU. That's the key.
Here's an example that happened to me recently.
I was in a local game with a bunch of friends and players who know me well.
I've built up a reputation in my town for being an AGGRESSIVE player at the
table... who's always pushing around the action and throwing out feeler bets.
In addition to being aggressive, people also know me as a BLUFFER. My buddies
have seen me push my entire stack into the middle on a 2-7 offsuit...when I
can't even beat the board.
And they've seen this happen MORE THAN ONCE.
This reputation has a TREMENDOUS IMPACT on my strategies at the table. And I
can use this "image" to my advantage.
In this particular example, I was dealt pocket 3's while on the button. Three of
my opponents limped in and the action was to me.
I liked my positioning, so I decided to throw out a pre-flop raise in hopes of
spiking a three.
"Make it $20 to play", I said.

This was a rather large bet with respect to pot size, but I did it for a reason. I
wanted to either STEAL THE BLINDS by forcing everyone to fold, or create headsup action... which would give my small pocket pair better odds at winning.
Anyway, Blake was the only player to call my bet, so I was feeling pretty good
about my chances.
The flop came out: A, 4, 3 all different suits.
Fantastic. I just spiked my three... which gives me trips. AND there's an Ace on
the board.
Blake checks.
Now here's where I have to make a decision. Do I slow-play the hand by
checking right behind him? The answer is NO. Because like I said, I have a
reputation with these guys. They know I bluff a lot, so they'll usually give me a
lot of action.
So instead of slow-playing, I actually OVER-BET the pot in this situation.
Blake called my large pre-flop raise... and now there's an ace on the board. So
he's probably sitting on a hand like AJ or AQ and thinks that HE is slow-playing
ME.
"Seventy-five to play", I say in a very arrogant tone. (This was a large bet for this
particular game.)
Blake- who is a Stage 2 player- thinks I'm pushing him around. He's sitting on
about $300 in chips and decides to go all-in.
EXACTLY what I wanted.
I call, and throw over my threes. He throws over A9 off-suit. And sure enough, I
took the pot down. All because I was ONE STEP AHEAD of him. I KNEW that he
was analyzing me and putting me on a bluff, so I reeled him in by "over-betting"
the pot with a touch of arrogance.
Of course, I didn't always know how to do this.
I can remember a hand I once played COMPLETELY WRONG on a riverboat in St.
Louis.
This was when I was first really "getting into" poker. The guys on the riverboat
didn't know me...so they weren't familiar with my style of play.
They didn't know I was a very aggressive player who often bluffed. (Which I was,
even back then.)

It was the second or third hand of the night and I was dealt pocket 6's. One of
my opponents made it $10 to play and I was the only one to call his bet.
I spiked my six on the flop... which means I had three-of-a-kind.
My opponent was first to act and threw out another $10 bet. The action was to
me.
Unfortunately, I was only focused on my cards and my opponent. I was between
levels 1 and 2 of the "Three Stages of Sophistication."
I figured he had a strong hand since he'd raised the pot twice and I was excited
as hell about my three 6's. So without hesitation, I made a raise. "I raise you
$40", I said in the same "pushy" tone I'd use with my buddies.
My opponent thought about it for a moment and then mucked his cards. I had
COMPLETELY misplayed the hand and all I made with my monster was a lousy 20
bucks.
The MISTAKE I'd made was failing to adjust my style of play to WHAT MY
OPPONENT WAS THINKING ABOUT ME.
Back at home, I would've gotten a call with my $40 raise. But not on this
riverboat. Because on the riverboat, my opponents didn't know me. They didn't
have a "read" on my style and we were only a few hands into the game.
For all they knew, I could've been an extremely TIGHT player just like most of
the young guys they show up on the riverboats.
Anyway, the lesson I learned is this:
THINK ABOUT WHAT YOUR OPPONENTS ARE THINKING.
Do they see you as tight, aggressive, reckless, bad, good, crazy?
See the game through the eyes of your opponents, and you'll be able to win
against ANYONE, ANYTIME, ANYWHERE.
A lot of pros will tell you that the only way to master these skills is through
EXPERIENCE.
But don't take this advice too seriously.
I've known guys who have played poker for 40 years and STILL can't play worth a
damn.
And I've known guys who pick the game up and after ONE YEAR are making a
FULL-TIME INCOME in card rooms across the country. The secret is NOT
experience. The secret is KNOWLEDGE.

What matters is how far along you are in your "Poker Intelligence".
If you're young, and you understand the strategies and techniques I share, then
you can have a MAJOR ADVANTAGE over your opponents because a lot of guys
will underestimate you.
If you're older or more experienced the exact OPPOSITE is true. You'll be at a
clear DISADVANTAGE if you're up against someone with a higher POKER IQ than
you.
The solution, no matter what your age or experience level, is to KEEP READING
MORE and STUDYING MORE about the game.
Discover the strategies and exact STEP-BY-STEP TECHNIQUES to follow for
different scenarios. You'll be AMAZED at how quickly and easily you can start
winning more pots and moving up to the higher stakes games. And before you
know it, you could be making some SERIOUS CASH playing no-limit Texas
Holdem poker.
How to Beat the Short Stack in Heads-Up Poker
Have you ever been in a heads-up poker match and realized just how much
DIFFERENT one-on-one poker is from "regular" poker?
Most players learn strategies for winning no-limit Texas Holdem when there are
4, 6, 8, or 12 players at the table. Not 2. Yet, you can't win a game or a
tournament without MASTERING heads-up play. In fact, heads-up play is
perhaps the MOST IMPORTANT aspect of no-limit Holdem and here's why:
If you can't win at heads-up poker, you'll never come in first place. Period. And
I don't know about you, but I play to WIN. Not to come in second place.
Most players, when they make it to a heads-up match are COMPLETELY CLUELESS
and don't know what to do. Especially when it comes to DEFENDING a chip lead.
Why is that? I think there are three main reasons.
1. Most players only make it to a heads-up match once in awhile, so they have
very little EXPERIENCE playing poker one-on-one.
2. The strategies for starting hands, odds, tells, and betting are so RADICALLY
DIFFERENT for heads-up poker versus say, at an 8-man table that most players
don't have the KNOWLEDGE needed.
3. Most players don't get to watch and study poker GREATS play heads-up
Holdem, because even the greats will only make it to a heads-up match once in
awhile.

With that said, let me share with you a rather EMBARRASSING story of how I got
"schooled" in a heads-up match earlier in my poker career and how I learned the
"secrets" to winning in heads-up poker.
I had fought my way through a 100-man tournament, and found myself headsup with someone named Brandon.
Brandon was (and is) a very skilled poker player who loves to push the action
but, at the time, I wasn't intimidated by him. Because I thought I had this baby
in the bag. You see, I had been catching monster after monster in this
tournament, and I had JUST finished knocking out two players at once with trip
kings.
My chip lead was HUGE. 10 to 1 over Brandon, actually.
I was on a roll.
I had over $100,000 in chips, versus Brandon's $10,000, with the blinds at
$500/$1000.
This thing is OVER, right?
The first hand I looked at was Q, 9 while I was small blind. I limped in, and the
action went to Brandon.
"All in," he said. I folded.
I didn't want to give him the chance to double up.
The next hand was K, 4 offsuit. Once again, Brandon went all-in.
I folded again, and Brandon raked in more blinds.
The next hand I was dealt was A, 4. Brandon goes all-in AGAIN. This time, I
called. He threw over pocket 4's. The flop, turn, and river come out: K, 7, 9, 2,
Q
So I didn't hit my ace, and Brandon doubled up.
By this time, he was sitting on $24,000 in chips, and I was at $86,000. The next
few hands played out and Brandon continued to go all-in time after time and I
continued to fold hands like K, 7, Q, 9, J, 8, and so on.
I just didn't want to risk doubling him up AGAIN with such "mediocre" hands.
But before you knew it, it didn't matter. Because I'd let Brandon right back into
the game. He had taken about 10 straight pots from me.
I was frustrated as all hell, and went on tilt. As you probably guessed, I blew the
rest of my chip lead and lost the match.
Honestly, I think this CHOKE should go down in the history books right next to
the Yankees versus Red Sox in the 2004 ALCS.

Just writing this newsletter makes me SICK to my stomach.

Anyway, what's REALLY IMPORTANT is what I did AFTER I lost that tournament.
I called up my buddy Drew and I told him he was going to come over and play in
me $20 heads-up games.
I think Drew could hear the frustration (and DESPERATION) in my voice so he
came right over.
We started playing at 7 P.m. and didn't finish until well after 5 A.M. in the
morning. We completed OVER 50 GAMES THAT NIGHT.
Now let me tell you, I wouldn't trade that night for ANY other experience in my
poker career.
It changed EVERYTHING for me. And here's why:
Because I crammed in YEARS of heads-up experience into that one night.
I learned how to play with a big chip lead, how to play when I was short-stacked,
how to "lean" on my opponent with a small chip lead...and so on.
And since then, I've done this same exercise with TONS of other poker players to
keep my skills FRESH and to master the techniques needed to win against
different playing styles.
When I was up against Brandon in that tournament, I had made a TON of
mistakes. You see, when you have a big chip lead in heads-up action, the first
secret is YOU MUST ATTACK.
To get a perspective on this, think about how you play when you're the SHORT
STACK. You're prepared to go all-in as soon as possible, right?
Well, you must use this to your ADVANTAGE when you're the big stack, and PUT
YOUR OPPONENT ALL-IN right away rather than the other way around. When you
have a big chip lead, YOU must be the one to create "coin toss" situations and
fast.
A coin-toss situation is when both players have virtually equal odds... and the
winning hand is determined by whatever the flop, turn, and river cards are. In
heads-up poker, any starting hand with a FACE CARD is playable. Or any pocket
pair. It's that simple.
If you've got a big chip lead on your opponent and he CHECKS or LIMPS-IN (calls
the blinds), then you should IMMEDIATELY put him all-in.
He wouldn't be checking or limping-in if he had ANYTHING DECENT at all. If he
folds, you've stolen the blinds from him, which is crucial. If he calls, you've
created a "coin-toss" situation.

Odds are you'll win at least one out of every two coin toss situations. Or at the
very least, you'll win one out of three.
Here's a basic summary of the "rules" you should follow when playing heads-up
poker with a huge chip lead. When I say "huge", I'm talking about 10 to 1 or
more.
Of course, you won't START with a 10:1 chip lead very often (like I did against
Brandon), but you will frequently BECOME the 10:1 chip leader in a heads-up
match if you're a skilled player. And that's the exact moment when you MUST
PULL THE TRIGGER AND WIN THE GAME. If you don't, the chip stacks can quickly
even out again and you may lose your chance forever.
Anyway... here are the RULES you should follow:
1. Any starting hand with a face card or any pocket pair is good.
2. You should either FOLD or go ALL-IN every time. Nothing else.
3. Force COIN-TOSS situations. In other words, leverage the 50/50 ODDS as
much as possible. Do this two or three times and you will almost always win the
match.
4. If you're playing against a tight player, it will be even easier. Keep going all-in
on just about every hand and let the blinds eat him to death.
Read and re-read those four principles and you'll be prepared the next time you
make it to a heads-up match.
In the meantime, you should IMMEDIATELY do two things:
1. Call a friend or poker buddy and invite him over to play you heads- up. Put
$5 or even just $1 on each game, it doesn't matter. The point is to play game
after game after game in a heads-up setting. Play for as long as you possibly
can.
When you're done, call a different friend and do the same thing again. And then
do it again next week. And keep doing this over and over. Trust me, your
poker skills will SKYROCKET when you follow this simple exercise.
A Special Technique for Spotting a Bluff
Let me show this great new technique I've discovered for quickly spotting a
bluff. I call it the "Question-Mark Check". This technique will IMMEDIATELY help
you sense weakness in your opponents and sniff out bluffs at the poker table.

"Sensing weakness" means when you get the feeling your opponent does NOT
have a strong hand. This information is extremely valuable, of course, because
you can use it to bet aggressively, raise, or even check-raise your opponents out
of a pot to win more money.
In order for me to explain this concept, however, I had to create some quick
audio examples for you to listen to.
Go to this page to learn all about this brand new strategy and hear the audio
(quick loading):
http://www.Texas-Holdem-Secrets.com/cmd.php?af=265179
Why You Shouldn't Slow Play Big Hands
When you get a MONSTER hand, you should NOT slow play it. And here's why:
"Slow playing" means that you don't bet very much, or bet nothing at all, in
hopes that your opponent makes a big bet or tries to bluff. For instance, if you
got two aces before the flop and only called the big blind, you would be "slow
playing" your aces. Or if you flopped a straight and just "checked", you would
be slow playing your straight. Make sense?
The problem is, most amateurs will slow play their big hands, trying to perform
the famous check-raise maneuver or trying to "trap" their opponents. But
generally speaking, this is NOT a smart strategy for two reasons:
1. Because many poker players will see right through you and fold the hand as
soon as you make your move.
2. Because you won't win as much money when you slow play big hands versus
betting them.
Let's talk about the first reason. The fact is, slow playing big hands will NOT
confuse your opponents. On the contrary, it will actually give them a SOLID
READ on you. Why?
BECAUSE MOST PLAYERS SLOW PLAY MONSTER HANDS. That's just the way it is.
You may think you're being SLY, but you're really just being STUPID. I think it's
actually human INSTINCTS to slow play big hands.
Think about it. When someone gets a big hand, what are they thinking in their
heads? They SHOULD be thinking, "How can I get the most money possible out
of this pot?" But what they are REALLY thinking is, "How can I make sure
everyone doesn't fold and this great hand doesn't go to waste?"
It's the truth.

Especially since it will often take HUNDREDS of hands before you catch a
monster. And that's the REAL reason why people slow play big hands. Because
they're SCARED TO DEATH that if they make a bet, everyone will fold.
So the point is, it is NOT unique to slow play a monster, in fact, it's what MOST
card players do. Especially amateurs. Now let's look at the second reason why
slow playing a big hand is a bad idea and that is:
YOU WON'T MAKE AS MUCH MONEY.
The fact is, when you hit a monster, you should bet it. It's that simple. Even if
you REALLY ARE thinking to yourself, "How can I get the most money out of this
pot?", the answer is to bet it. Not slow play it.
You'll win more chips and make more money by betting your big hands
especially when you look at it over a long term perspective.
Let me show you three reasons why:
1. Usually, one of your opponents will have SOMETHING, whether it's a bottom
pair, wired pair, a straight draw, whatever.
This means that you'll usually get one or more callers for your monster hand...
which is "sure money" going into the pot that you're about to win...
2. When you slow play big hands, you're opening yourself up for BAD BEATS.
You shouldn't give your opponents the opportunity to see free cards.
When you let them see free cards, you're just increasing the odds that someone
catches a lucky draw... or the one "miracle" card that can bust your hand.
Betting your big hand, instead of letting your opponent get free cards, will
narrow down your chances of a bad beat.
3. Your opponents won't see it coming.
Since most players slow play monsters, your opponents will often put you on a
BLUFF when you bet your big hand. And if they think you're bluffing, they'll try
to come back over the top of you with a raise. This, of course, gives you yet
ANOTHER way to make more money from your hand.
Now, let me talk about the EXCEPTION to this rule. And that is when you get a
monster that is SO UNBELIEVABLE and you sense complete weakness at the
table. The most common example of this is 4-of-a-kind. For instance, let's say
the flop came out 8, 8, 2 and you've got pocket 8's. The other two players
check to you.
In this case, it will be smart to just check your big hand, rather than betting.
BUT, you're not really "slow playing" it. What you're ACTUALLY doing is just
letting your opponents "catch up" to you.

Since you know the 8's couldn't have helped either of your opponents, you want
to make sure a turn card comes out, and maybe even a river card, in hopes that
someone catches SOMETHING.
If the turn card is a face card, that's good news for you. Because it means that
someone might have made top pair and will be willing to give you some action
in the hand. But besides that, you should NOT slow play your big hands.
Now, let's see a real-life instance where this strategy helped me make more
money at the poker table. Just the other night I was at the riverboat and got
dealt AQ. My positioning wasn't good, but it was the first decent hand I'd seen
in awhile, so I raised the pot to 1,500 in chips.
Only one player called me, the man on the button. This guy (we'll call him
"Mike") is a very good card player. He goes to the casinos every single night, 7
days a week, grinding it out and making his living. He's one of the only players
at this table that I generally avoid going heads-up with, actually.
So, anyway, the flop comes out, and it's: Q,Q,3
I've flopped a set with an ace kicker. I'm first to act. So what do I do? Most
players would slow play, but not me. I come out firing. I hesitate for like two
seconds and then push in 4,000 in chips. Mike is thinking there is no possible
way I'd bet trips like that, so he's probably putting me on a high wired pair (but
not queens). Plus, he might think I'm just representing my pre-flop raise with
this bet. So instead of folding, Mike decides to represent the queens out there
and act as if HE has the trip queens. "Make it 10,000", he says aggressively.
Of course, now I've got Mike EXACTLY where I want him. I call his bet. The turn
card comesit's a 10. I check, because I know Mike is going to make a big
move on me. "Make it 10,000", he says again. And I call again. It turns out
Mike is sitting on K,10, which means he's got a pair. This will give him even
MORE confidence to try to buy this pot.
Now that I've called his bets, however, he's probably thinking I have Kings or
Aces. Which means the only way he can win this pot is to scare me away. The
river hits and it's a 3; which gives me the full house. I check again, and Mike
goes ALL IN with his huge chip stack, thinking he can bully me out of the hand.
I call and I take down a MASSIVE pot from the seasoned rounder.
And it all started because I DIDN'T slow play my trips. Mike didn't put me on the
three queens and was willing to push his entire stack into the middle to try to
win that pot.
Of course, that won't happen every time you get a big hand. And trying to
confuse your opponent is definitely NOT the only reason to not slow play your
big hands. The reality is, when you bet your big hands you'll CONSISTENTLY win
more pots and make MORE MONEY playing poker.

Winning Against Players Who Never Fold

*** QUESTION FROM A READER ****
Hello Rory, First I like to say your information is right on the money. I come
across a usual situation a few times when I play 100 dollar buy-in with my
friends. I have a few friends that always seem to chase their straights or flushes
no matter how bad their odds are. Sometimes they need two cards to complete
their hand. I usually bet heavy into these players when I hold top pair or pocket
pairs to scare them out, but I can't seem to get them to fold. I usually win, but
sometimes I have two of them chasing their straight or flush and when one hits I
get pissed and puts me on tilt. I don't know what to do because I want to
protect my hand and not let them play for free.
K.F.
Vancouver, Canada
>>> MY COMMENTS:
The only thing WORSE than a player who never folds is someone who doesn't
know how to BEAT a player who never folds. C'mon man, the answer to this is
EASY! GO ALL-IN. That's it.
If you've got top pair and your friends at the table are chasing a straight or a
flush, put them to a decision for all their chips. You said it yourself, you
"usually" win. Any time your odds can be described as "USUALLY", then you
need to push your entire stack in the middle. Period.
If they call, great. You'll "usually" win all their money. If they fold, that's good
too, because you still won the hand.
*** QUESTION FROM A READER ****
Hi Rory, I love your emails. Each one of them makes me a better player
although, I've got a lot of work to do. I thought I knew how to play, signed up at
an online casino and lost it all. Bought your course, re-read it and read your
emails and play a lot. Put in cash again a month ago and have won all I lost
back. Thanks.
Anyways, regarding slow plays, what if someone else is betting? What I mean is
you've hit a big hand (trips, flush or boat on flop). Out comes Drew in front of
you and he bets the pot (say there is $20 in the pot before the flop at a No limit
$1/2 blinds table) so Drew bets $20. Two others call. You are pretty sure you
have them all beat. Do you re-raise or just call? If you just call and Drew bets
again, do you re- raise at this point or keep going till the river to push him all
in?

Thanks in advance, P.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
I'm glad to hear you won all your money back. Good work. When you've hit a
big hand and there are three other players in the hand, you need to be VERY
CAREFUL. Chances are, someone's going to be on a draw. Pay close attention
to the cards on the board, and figure out what these players are betting with.
If there are two cards of the same suit on the board and you have trips (three-ofa-kind), you need to make a LARGE re-raise or go all in. Because if you DON'T,
and someone hits their flush, you're in big trouble. (A flush beats a three-of-akind.)
On the other hand, let's say the flop hits: 4c, 9c, Qc
And you've got Ac,2c in your hand. What then? Well, you've flopped what's
called the "NUT FLUSH", which means it's the best possible flush (because you
have the Ace).
If Drew and two other players at the table are in the hand, I would probably just
call here. And I'd be PRAYING that another club hit the board on the turn card
or river card. Why?
Because that means someone ELSE will have the flush also, and will probably bet
a large amount, ESPECIALLY if they have the King of clubs.
And after that fourth club hits, that's the PERFECT opportunity for you to go allin and win ALL of their chips since your Ace-high flush will beat their King-high
flush.
The point is, if you have a big hand and there's any type of DRAW on the board
that can beat you, you want to raise big. Examples of this would be:
- You have the flush but there is a pair on the board, which means someone
might make a full house (a.k.a. "boat").
- You have a "set" (three-of-a-kind) but there are two spades on the board and
someone might draw a flush.
- You have a straight and someone might make a flush if they get one more
card.
- You have two pair and someone might make a straight.
- And so on.
A lot of players would SHY AWAY from betting big when there's a draw on the
board, because they're afraid of losing all their chips. But you MUST do the

EXACT OPPOSITE. If you have a big hand, you must BET IT. Because that's the
ONLY WAY your opponent is going to fold his hand.
If he folds, you win. If he DOESN'T fold, the odds are in your favor. And the
BEST possible thing to do in no-limit Texas Holdem is to get ALL YOUR CHIPS IN
THE MIDDLE when you have the best odds of winning. Period.
Will you win every time?
No.
Will your opponent get lucky sometimes and catch the "miracle" card he needs?
Absolutely.
But that's okay. Because if you let your opponent STAY IN THE HAND and see the
turn and river cards without going all-in, you're doing two (stupid) things:
1. You're opening yourself up for a bad beat by giving him the chance to catch
his card.
2. If you win (which will USUALLY happen when you have a big hand), you won't
win as much money as if you had put him all-in.
In other words, when you don't have the balls to go all-in on a big hand, you'll
lose these hands MORE OFTEN and when you DO win, the pot will be smaller
anyway.
So heed this advice: GO ALL-IN!
*** QUESTION FROM A READER ****
Hey man, I appreciate all the newsletters and the awesome wisdom from your
book. There is only one thing that I still have trouble with. I guess some days is
just not your day. I was playing a friendly no limit game the other night, and
just did not win a hand. Every time I hit a hand, I would get beat by a dumb call
draw, since I was short stacked. Is there any way around this?
Thanks again, R.P.
New Jersey
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Sounds like you caught a bad run of cards. It happens to all of us, so don't
worry about it. Your question, however, brings up a VERY INTERESTING point.
And that is:

Sometimes it's just NOT your day. Oh how true. Once you get a decent amount
of poker experience under your belt, you'll notice this phenomenon more and
more.
Sometimes, no matter what you do, you just won't be "on".
And what most players do when this happens is keep playingmore and more.
Whether that means spending more money online, re-buying into a tournament,
or whatever.
What you SHOULD do is just STOP for the night. Period.
Don't bet any more money, because you're just going to be throwing it away.
Even the best poker players I know fall victim to this once in awhile and the
REASON is simple:
Poker players don't like to STOP until they've made money.
It's the same way at casinos. People will sit and there and feed the slot
machines coin after coin after coin, waiting to WIN before they leave.
It's just plain dumb.
If you're catching bad cards, and you're not winning any hands, just stop
playing. Go home, get a good night's rest, watch a movie, or do whatever. Just
DON'T play any more poker for the day.
If you took a REALLY bad set of beats, you may even want to take a few days
off...or a few WEEKS off. But the point is, when it's not your day, it's not your
day. Don't try to "force" it. Don't tell yourself that it's "impossible to keep
catching such terrible cards". Trust me, it's possible.
So just accept the fact that it's NOT YOUR DAY and stop playing. In terms of
money management, this is probably the number one MOST IMPORTANT rule.
Follow this advice and you'll save yourself a lot of headaches (and money) in the
future.
*** QUESTION FROM A READER ****
Rory, How am I supposed to handle a player that consistently out draws me? I
have been all in for some huge pots and the same guy, whom is my friend,
keeps out drawing me.
I have been ran down with trip aces, trip kings, and a better full house than
mine on the river. Am I supposed to fold these hands? I am feeling really
frustrated because I feel like I am playing the hands correctly. I remember the
bad-beat article you sent me, and I have tried different ways to approach. I have
made big bets to get the limpers and such out, but nothing seems to work. I am

favored about 9 to 1 when this crap happens. Do I wait for the odds to hit or is
there another way I can pull off these big hands?
C.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Oh geez. Here we go again. Ok man, first off, take a deep breath.
What your question says to me is that you're being very EMOTIONAL about your
poker game.
You wrote things like, "I am feeling very frustrated" and "I feel like I am playing
correctly". STOP THAT. The first step for you to start winning more poker to
stop FEELING so much and start THINKING more. Got it?
Secondly, you wrote:
"Am I supposed to fold these hands?" And my answer is: ONLY WHEN YOU'RE AT
THE SAME TABLE AS ME.
If you start folding full houses and trip kings, just because you're scared
someone is going to out draw you on the river, you should probably QUIT POKER
and start playing MONOPOLY instead.
Or maybe checkers, because that requires even LESS INTELLIGENCE. I'm serious.
I hate to break it to you, but your FRIEND is not the luckiest person in the world.
And he's not always going to keep out drawing you.
Follow these three steps and I can promise you things will get better:
1. Stop FEELING so much and start THINKING.
2. When you have a big hand against this FRIEND of yours, go all-in and put him
to a decision for all his chips.
If your odds are 9:1 on this "crap" and he CALLS your all-in bet, you're in good
shape. Trust me.
3. Don't play big hands when there's a BIGGER hand out there that can easily
beat you.
If your friend goes all in when there are three or four clubs out on the board,
you should FOLD your trips. I know, I know, it's tough to fold trips. But he's
probably got the flush. So just muck it and live to see another day.
*** QUESTION FROM A READER ****

We play Texas Holdem once a week. There is always one player (the same one
every week) that bets crazy. No matter what they have they raise the pot $40,
$80 and sometimes all in. I always fold because if I call the pot gets raised until
I finally fold. What should I do?
J. (California)
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Great question. Playing against ultra-aggressive players can be quite difficult,
which is part of the reason why I advocate adopting an aggressive style of play.
When you're at the table with someone who plays this way, the key is to
TIGHTEN UP UNTIL YOU CATCH A GOOD HAND. Then strike.
For instance, don't limp-in (call the blinds) before the flop against this player.
Instead, you should either FOLD (when you don't have a good hand) or RAISE
(when you do have a good hand). Don't call.
The only way you'll beat this player is to take a stand and COME BACK OVER THE
TOP OF HIM. Put HIM on the defensive. And if he is playing so loose that he reraises you when you have a good hand, then simply go all-in and wipe him out.
Ultra-aggressive players aren't magically getting fantastic cards every time.
Instead, they're simply playing more hands and BLUFFING a lot more. The trick
is to sit back, wait for the good hands, and then play right back at him.
Don't FEAR his style. Just realize that he's making it EASY for you to take all his
chips as soon as you refuse to let him push you around. Let me know how it
goes for you.
*** QUESTION FROM A READER ****
Rory, I wanted to thank you for your on-line tips. With your help I have become
one of the most feared players in the tournaments that I enter. I have won
$28000 since April 1st including 4 first place finishes totaling over $20000.
While it was me that played the hands, I can see your influence in my game. I
look forward to your next post.
C.
>>> MY COMMENTS:
Nice! Thanks for keeping me updated on your success. I always appreciate
hearing stories like yours.
And of course, I always appreciate ROYALTY CHECKS, so feel free to send me
some of that $28,000 you just won. LOL. Just kidding.

The really great thing about poker is that you REALLY CAN win a ton of money at
it, whether that means playing online, in tournaments, in the casinos, or even
just in home games.
Especially since there are a lot of "fish" out there who are just getting started
and don't quite "get it" when it comes to strategy.
A Dangerous Mistake That Will Cost You Money
Here is a DANGEROUS MISTAKE that I'd say about 97% of people make when
playing Texas Holdem: THEY DON'T KNOW HOW TO PROPERLY PLAY IN FIRST
POSITION BEFORE THE FLOP. This is the player immediately to the left of the big
blind. It's the first person to act as soon as the cards are dealt.
This position is nicknamed "under the gun". And with good reason, too.
Because this is THE most DANGEROUS and COSTLY position at the table. Here's
why:
1. When you're under the gun, you are FIRST to act BEFORE the flop and one of
the first to act AFTER the flop. This means you DON'T EVEN GET A CHANCE to
get a read on the other players before you must make your decisions about
betting.
2. The other players can check-raise you, trap you, and get a READ on YOU
much more easily when you're in this position at the table.
3. You are more likely to get bluffed, pushed around, out drawn, and BEAT when
you're in this position.
Let's examine WHY this table position is so terrible and what proven strategies
you can use to play under the gun PROPERLY, so that you don't lose any more
money because of it. Here's an example:
Let's say you're under the gun at an 8-man table. You get your cards and look
down at an A, 10 off-suit. You decide to limp in, and you call the big blind (50).
The action goes around the table to the other players. The man on the button
(Drew) decides to RAISE and make it 300 total to play. You're not sure if this is a
position raise, or if he really does have a solid hand. With all the chips already
in the pot plus the 50 you already put in from your own stack, you decide to call
with your A,10.
There's one other caller, and both the big blind and small blind players fold.
The flop comes out: A,3,6 - all different suits.
You've hit top pair. Congratulations. What sucks is that you're FIRST to act, and
you know that Drew is probably going to raise you no matter what you do. But
you don't have a read on Drew or the other player. If Drew raises, you have to
call, right? I mean, you hit top pair in a raised pot.

So, let's say you throw out a "feeler bet", just to see where you're at. Drew calls,
and the other guy folds. Hmm, so now you wonder if Drew is SLOW-PLAYING a
big hand or if he's just going to bluff at this. The turn comes. It's an 8. You
check and now Drew bets 1000.
What now?
You're "pot committed" and you still have top-pair, so you decide to call.
Now the river comes, you check again, and Drew goes all-in for 3000 more.
You've already got about 1500 in the pot. You're getting over 2:1 on your
money, and you're really not sure if Drew's bluffing or not. So you call and sure
enough, Drew throws over his Big Slick (A,K), and rakes in the pot. Ouch.
And the REASON you lost that big pot wasn't just the cards, it was your
POSITIONING. If you're under the gun and you hit top pair on the flop, you're
just ASKING for trouble. Because it's very difficult to get an accurate read on
your opponents when you're first to act.
I mean, let's just look at the many ways you can LOSE your money when playing
under the gun:
- If you call the blinds, but then the pot gets raised before the flop and you fold.
(You've lost your blinds.)
- If you call the blinds (and maybe a pre-flop raise) and the flop is no help to
you. You check, and there's a big bet by another player and you are forced to
fold.
- If you bet after the flop but get raised and are forced to fold.
- If you have a good hand but someone else has a MONSTER and slow-plays you.
(It's much easier for someone to slow-play you when you're first to act.)
Now multiply all of these LOSSES by the number of times you will be under the
gun every single time you play cards.
The result is a TON of lost chips. But, I do have good news:
IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE THIS WAY. You don't have to lose money every time
you're first to act before the flop. You just have to know EXACTLY WHICH
HANDS TO PLAY and HOW TO PLAY THEM. Let's take a look:
In our example above, the biggest mistake made was playing A, 10 in the first
place. Since under the gun positioning is so dangerous, you shouldn't play
anything except PREMIUM HANDS.

The rule is this: TIGHTEN UP YOUR GAME. Only play these exact hands: AK, AQ,
KQ, and pairs. The only other hand you may want to play is suited connectors,
but, that just depends on your style. Personally, I don't like to play them here.
OK, now let's look at HOW to play the starting hands. There are basically two
groups:
Group 1: AA, KK, QQ, and AK.
Group 2: AQ, KQ, and all other pairs. Got it? Now stick with me here, because
this is VERY SIMPLE to understand and will save you a lot of money at the
Holdem table.
When you're under the gun, you should always CALL THE BLINDS (LIMP-IN) when
you get any hand in Group 2. That means if you get any pair between 2's and
Jacks or AQ or KQ you should CALL. Period.
The goal is to hit something good on the flop. If someone makes a reasonable
raise before the flop, you can feel comfortable calling it with one of these hands.
I love playing small pocket pairs, because if you spike your card on the flop
(giving you a three of a kind or a "set"), your opponents will usually never see it
coming.
Now let's talk about Group 1 hands. The monsters: AA, KK, QQ, AK. The way
you play these depends on whether the table you're at is LOOSE or TIGHT.
Here's the rule:
If you're at a LOOSE table (where a lot of pre-flop raises occur), you should LIMPIN (call) with your monster.
If you're at a TIGHT table (where not many pre-flop raises occur), you should
RAISE the pot before the flop.
Here's why:
If the table is LOOSE and you limp-in before the flop, the pot will most likely get
RAISED and the action will come BACK to you. This is good. It means more
money in the pot for your monster hand. But, if you make a big bet, there's a
good chance you will NOT get raised, because you're first to act and everyone
will know you probably have a good hand.
If you limp-in and the pot gets raised, you should probably make a RE-RAISE.
Always try to get as much money in the pot whenever possible with your
monster hand. But, you DON'T want more than 1-2 callers, because that would
increase the odds of catching a bad beat.
Now if the table is TIGHT, you want to make a RAISE before the flop. You don't
want a bunch of players to all limp-in and see a cheap flop. Instead, you want to

narrow down the field to 1-2 players and get some money in the middle before
the flop. Period.
Playing first position before the flop is just plain tricky. You're first to act preflop, in early position after the flop, you can't get as good of a read on your
opponents, and you're at risk to getting slow-played.
So just remember, the next time you're under the gun, follow these three simple
rules:
1. Only play premium hands: pairs, AK, AQ, or KQ.
2. With AA, KK, QQ, and AK, you should RAISE at a tight table and LIMP- IN at a
loose table.
3. With the other starting hands you should just LIMP-IN.
Play by these easy rules and you'll stop losing money and start MAKING
money from this very dangerous position.
And you'll have a MAJOR ADVANTAGE over everyone else at the table who
DOESN'T know this strategy.
Which brings me to my next point. You should always try to have MORE POKER
KNOWLEDGE than the other guys at the table, because if you do, you've literally
"stacked the deck" in your favor. But, if other guys you're up against know
MORE about the game than YOU, you're going to be in DEEP TROUBLE because
poker is a SKILL game and it is very complex. If you want to learn how to play
and WIN, you've got to know the strategies and techniques of the pros.
How To Spot a Bluff
There is one KEY PRINCIPLE to keep in mind when deciding if someone is
BLUFFING or has a GREAT HAND...
Here it is:
If a player acts STRONG, he is probably WEAK. If a player acts WEAK, he is
probably STRONG. It's simple human nature. This is NOT an original idea.
Mike Caro was the first to put this amazing insight into words many years ago.
And after I had heard this wisdom, my poker winnings soared to a NEW LEVEL.
Because every poker TELL boils down to this fundamental principle.
Now, the UNFORTUNATE thing about this advice is that even though it is SO
SIMPLE, most card players just don't "get it", or don't apply it properly.
So, let's discuss how you can use this concept to spot bluffs QUICKLY, EASILY,
and CONSISTENTLY. First off, it's important to remember that in order to spot
BLUFFS, you must be tuned into signs of STRENGTH as well.

For example, if you only look for "tells" that suggest a player is BLUFFING, you're
only getting half the picture. When trying to get an accurate read on an
opponent, you must be looking for both signs of strength AND weakness.
Let's go back to our main "rule" again and look at the first part:
"If a player acts STRONG, he is probably WEAK."
This means that when a player does something that makes it LOOK like he's got
a monster hand, he's probably bluffing. The CRUCIAL point to keep in mind is
that most players don't TRY to act strong. They just do it unconsciously. I know
that sounds strange, but think about it.
Let's say you've got 9d,2s and you decide to make a bold bluff by going all-in
pre-flop (which I don't recommend, by the way!).
Anyway, in your mind, you're thinking, "Damn I sure hope no one calls!", but
when someone starts contemplating a decision, you REALLY start to get worried.
So what do you do?
Well, the NATURAL thing to do; the thing that MOST players do, is to act like
you're NOT afraid. Obviously you don't want someone to know that you're
SCARED of getting called, right?
So, you sit up straight, your hands don't tremble, your voice has a little
"arrogance" to it. And ultimately, all of those things are signs that you're
BLUFFING.
But, you didn't MEAN to act that way, it just kind of came naturally. You didn't
think, "Oh, I don't want him to know that I'm scared, so I'm going to sit up
straight and act smooth and talk with arrogance."
It just kind of HAPPENS. Still with me? Ultimately, a BLUFF is a LIE.
That's right, just a plain old lie. So, when someone is bluffing by betting,
they're simply LYING about what they have in their hand. Which means
technically, the real skill is not the ability to spot a bluff, it's the ability to spot a
LIE.
But anyway, back to my point. When the player acts strong, he's probably weak.
But, he didn't CHOOSE to act strong. This is just a "mechanism" inside of him
that turns on, simply because he's LYING to you about his hand.
Let me show you a few practical examples. Here are THREE valuable "tells" to
look for:
1. When a player "flicks" his chips in the middle with extra OOMPH or tosses
them in aggressively.

What's going on there? I'll tell you what: The player is ACTING strong, which
means he probably doesn't have a very good hand.
2. When a player speaks aggressively and talks a lot.
Once again, this is usually a sign of weakness, since the player is "covering up"
his bad hand by acting like he's got something. BUT, this poker tell is very easy
to confuse and get COMPLETELY WRONG, and here's why:
There is a major difference between SPEAKING AGGRESSIVELY and
DEMONSTRATING CONFIDENCE. Here's what I mean, if a player talks a lot in a
manner that's NOT normal for him, it's usually a sign of WEAKNESS.
The way to sense this is to look for any signs of DESPERATION with his voice.
But, if the player is chatting along, having a good time, and seems quite
CONFIDENT in general, it usually means he has a strong hand.
It's a very subtle difference, and takes time to learn.
3. When a player looks you dead in the eye.
This usually means the player does not have a strong hand. The "death stare" is
simply an ACT of strength, but what it really means is WEAKNESS.
Now, let's flip this over and look at poker tells that will show you when a player
is sitting on a monster hand. Because knowing when to FOLD is often times
MORE IMPORTANT than just knowing when someone's bluffing you. So,
repeating the second part of our mantra:
"If a player acts WEAK, he is probably STRONG."
ACTING WEAK is usually more subtle than acting strong.
demonstrated in a way that is more like DISINTEREST.

It's usually

And once again, the player doesn't usually MEAN to act weak. It's simply a
NATURAL MECHANISM. Of course, sometimes a player will INTENTIONALLY ACT
WEAK, but the meaning behind it is still the same: He's got a strong hand.
Here are three poker tells when a player is acting WEAK, but has a really great
hand:
1. Looking AWAY and acting disinterested and NOT making eye contact with
you. This is the opposite of STARING YOU DOWN, which is a sign of weakness.
This poker tell is ESPECIALLY apparent when the flop hits. If the flop REALLY
helped a player, he'll usually just glance at it for a brief moment and then look
away.

(On the other hand, if a player stares at the cards on the flop for a long period
of time, that usually means the flop did NOT help him.)
2. Being very quiet.
When a player is PRAYING to himself that you're going to call his bet, he usually
stays very quiet and to himself. If everyone at the table is laughing at
something and a player suddenly gets QUIET or kind of "forces" his laugh, then
that's a sign he just picked up a monster hand. Beware!
3. Getting shaky.
When a player's hands get very shaky, watch out. Some people think it's a sign
of BLUFFING, but I sure hope you're not one of those people. Shaky hands is
almost always a sign of a MONSTER HAND.
Also, I might add here, that after someone WINS a really big pot, sometimes they
get shaky as an "after effect". Honestly, I have no idea why. But, I do know that
it happens. So, if someone just won a huge pot and is looking kind of shaky,
that's probably why.
Knowing about poker tells like these; both signs of WEAKNESS and signs of
STRENGTH, is a very important part of WINNING POKER.
How To Avoid Going On TILT
When a poker player goes on "tilt", it means that he is playing in a way that is
DIFFERENT than normal; in a way that is based on EMOTION and the events of
the game.
For example, if you got pocket Aces and lost a big hand to someone with pocket
2's, you might go on TILT because of that bad beat. Or let's say you had a pair
and your opponent went all-in and once you folded, your opponent showed you
that he was BLUFFING with a nine high.
You might go on TILT after that because you were TRICKED and you blew the
chance at doubling your chips. The point is, TILT is an EMOTIONAL state. And
the most important thing you should know about tilt is this:
Tilt is DANGEROUS.
It's dangerous because it will cause you to lose money. LOTS OF MONEY.
Why?
Well, put simply, tilt makes you do things that you wouldn't "normally" do.
It makes you place over-aggressive bets. It makes you stay in pots longer than
you should and it ZAPS your self-control and discipline.

The good news is, I can show you how to "avoid" tilt. But first, let's look at
EXACTLY how tilt occurs when you play.
The PRIMARY REASON that tilt occurs is because of a MAJOR LOSS. There are
other causes, but this is the main one, so we'll focus on it here. By "major loss" I
mean a BIG POT that you COULD have won or even perhaps SHOULD have won,
but DIDN'T.
For some reason, poker players can always remember the BAD BEATS and BIG
LOSSES they've suffered, but never remember the big victories. Tilt works the
same way. You can be winning hand after hand after hand all day, but then
suddenly go on TILT following one lost pot.
When tilt occurs, it first impacts your EMOTIONAL mind, because like I said, tilt
is just an emotional condition. Then, it will impact your LOGICAL mind. As
much as we'd like to believe we can SEPARATE our emotions from our thinking,
we just can't. The truth is, emotions are FAR MORE POWERFUL than logic or
reasoning.
So when tilt occurs, you'll start playing in a way that JUST DOESN'T MAKE SENSE.
You'll try to bluff more, you'll raise more, and you'll be more aggressive.
Why does tilt work this way? Why does it make you play more AGGRESSIVELY,
rather than TIGHTEN UP? The answer lies in what our brains are trying to
"accomplish" with tilt.
You see, in poker and in all of gambling, the rule is this: GAINS COME SLOWLY.
LOSSES COME QUICKLY.
It can take three hours to win a hundred dollars but only THREE SECONDS to
lose it all and more. Now I'm NOT talking about something like winning the
lottery here. I'm talking about being able to CONSISTENTLY win money by
playing SMART and KEEPING THE ODDS IN YOUR FAVOR. That's what Texas
Holdem strategy is all about: Keeping the odds in your favor. Because the more
you play with the odds in your FAVOR, the more money you win.
Well, when a major LOSS occurs, you lose all that time you spent building up
your GAINS... so your brain goes on TILT. And what your brain is TRYING TO DO
is to win back all that money you lostfast. In fact, your brain trying to win the
money back as QUICKLY AS YOU LOST IT. Make sense?
It's kind of like the stock market. When a stock goes from $100 per share to
$50 per share, it's a decrease of 50%. But, for the stock to get BACK to $100
per share, it has to INCREASE BY 200%. That's a big difference. And if you know
ANYTHING about the market, you know that 200% increases are hard to come
by.
The reality is it will probably take YEARS for the stock to gradually climb back to
$100 per share. But, the investor doesn't want to think about it that way. The

investor wants his money back RIGHT NOW. And therefore the investor will go
on TILT and make poor buying decisions with his money, hoping to find that
"miracle" stock.
Poker is the same way. Except instead of hoping for a miracle STOCK, a player
on tilt is hoping for a miracle MONSTER HAND like trip aces or a royal flush.
The problem is, the ODDS don't work like that.
You can't SUDDENLY win a ton of money just because you lost it in the previous
hand. That money is no longer yours.
In addition, a major lost pot SKEWS YOUR ENTIRE PERCEPTION:
A pre-flop raise of 1,000 chips no longer looks "big" after you've just lost
10,000. So you decide to call the raise with your K-4 offsuit... because TILT has
got you by the balls. The point is this:
You must AVOID TILT. Period. But how? A lot of pros will tell you that the way
to avoid tilt is to, "Think logically, take a deep breath, and remember that it's all
part of the game."
Phooey. You and I both know that that stuff doesn't work. Because like we said
before, TILT IS EMOTIONAL. And that means it CANNOT be solved with LOGIC.
The key to avoiding tilt is to CATCH IT right before it happens. So, the VERY
MOMENT you lose a big hand or take a bad beat, THAT IS WHEN YOU MUST
"INTERVENE" with your mind. THAT is when you must take control. And you
can't just tell yourself, "Hey, this is just a part of the game. " No. You must
SEPARATE YOURSELF from the game for however long it takes to "regroup".
For instance, if I lose a big hand at a casino I'll usually have my chips covered up
and I'll go grab a quick bite to eat. I'll get some fresh air, call my girlfriend, go
back to my hotel room, whatever. THEN I will come back to the table and
continue playing.
When I'm not in a casino and don't have the luxury of being able to take a break
from the game, I'll simply "sit out" for the next few pots and pay my blinds. I'll
fold my hands and just watch. I'll breathe deeply and focus on MY GAME.
Period.
This "separation" is the secret to avoiding tilt. Because first of all, it keeps your
emotional brain from consuming your LOGICAL brain. Don't ask me why. I'm
not a scientist. I just know that it WORKS.
And secondly, separation allows you to KEEP THINGS IN PROPER PERSPECTIVE.
You'll be in control. You'll know that a pre-flop raise of 1,000 chips IS A LOT
and you'll fold your measly K, 4 because you're thinking CLEARLY.
You'll go back to YOUR GAME. You'll remember your strategies and techniques
and you'll gradually start winning with the ODDS BACK IN YOUR FAVOR.

Honestly, of all the tricks, techniques, and Texas Holdem secrets I teach,
avoiding tilt can quite possibly have the BIGGEST effect on your bankroll.
Because whether you spend ten hours or ten THOUSAND hours "grinding it out"
at the poker tables, your money will VANISH if you go on tilt.
Which brings me to ANOTHER interesting secret I've discovered.
The
EXPERIENCE OF TILT is actually just an EXTREME form of experience that
happens ALL THE TIME when you play poker.
What I mean is EVERY TIME YOU LOSE A HAND you're going on tilt. Except, this
tilt would be a small version of "the real thing." Stick with me here. If TILT is
just an EMOTION, then you're ACTUALLY going on tilt all the time except it's
only noticeable during the really big pots. The truth is you're going on "Tiny
Tilts" all game, every game, that are swaying you back and forth and back and
forth from the REAL STRATEGIES AND ACTIONS YOU SHOULD BE TAKING.
That's why the PROS are able to avoid tilt so effectively. Because they've played
SO MUCH POKER that they know the RIGHT play to make in virtually every
situation. Emotion just doesn't factor in.
And ultimately, that's the BEST way to avoid tilt. To adopt a complete SYSTEM of
playing STRATEGIES and techniques that YOU STICK TO throughout the game.
Take emotion out of it. Just play the proven, step-by-step methods that will help
you CONSISTENTLY win the most money at the table.
How to Represent The Flop
You're probably familiar with the term "represent the flop". But do you know
what it REALLY means? And do you know how to PROPERLY represent the flop in
order to win more chips? Most players think that REPRESENTING THE FLOP just
means betting and acting in a way as if the cards on the board HELPED your
hand. Although this definition is ACCURATE, it's much too simplistic to add any
benefit to your game.
Representing the flop is in fact a very in-depth strategy that is CRUCIAL to prolevel Texas Holdem poker. First, let's look at WHY you should represent the
flop: The primary reason is to find out WHERE YOU'RE AT IN A HAND.
In other words, you want to learn how strong and how weak the OTHER players
at the table are. And the only way to do this is through BETTING.
If you only check, check, call, call then you will NEVER become a good poker
player. Never. You've got to bet and PRETEND that the community cards helped
you. If someone has a weak hand, they will be forced to fold. If someone has a
mediocre hand, they will probably fold too, because you're "representing" that
you have something good. And if a player has a STRONG or VERY STRONG
hand, they will either call you or raise your bet.

So based on what everyone does, you can find out if you have a chance at
winning the pot, if you can bet other players out, or if you should just fold. All
information you WOULDN'T have known otherwise. Frequently representing the
flop is an AGGRESSIVE style of play. If you do it, you'll get a lot of action at the
table, especially after the flop.
For example, if you come out firing after the flop three out of four hands, your
opponents will begin calling your bets and giving you action, because they
KNOW you don't have a great hand EVERY SINGLE TIME. This comes in handy
when you hit a MONSTER, like when you flop a set or a flush or something. You
don't have to worry about everyone folding to you.
But, even more important than getting lots of action, representing the flop will
help you STEAL a lot of pots over the course of every card game. And when YOU
control the action and the betting, you'll find it much easier to steal blinds and
pots after the flop. And trust me, THESE SMALL POTS ADD UP...FAST. If you
only go for the "big pots" in a poker game or tournament, you won't last long.
You've got to stick your neck out there and go for the SMALLER POTS, too.
OK, so representing the flop is a USEFUL and IMPORTANT TOOL in no-limit
Texas Holdem poker. Now you've got to learn how to represent the flop the
RIGHT WAY. I have FIVE BASIC RULES when it comes to representing the flop,
each rule gets progressively more complicated as they go on. But, trust me, if
you master these rules, you'll DEFINITELY be on your way to higher "poker
profits" and winnings.
OK, so here they are. These are my FIVE RULES:
RULE #1: When you represent the flop, don't act weak by only betting the
MINIMUM amount, BUT don't bet so much that it can burn you.
This is kind of like the "not too hot, not too cold" principle. You see, when you
represent the flop, you've got to accept the fact that you will likely NOT get the
chips back that you're betting. I mean, obviously you want to WIN, don't get me
wrong. BUT, if someone has a great hand and you're representing the flop
WITHOUT a great hand, then there's a good chance you'll have to fold soon.
So when you make a representation bet, do NOT bet so much that you'll feel
"pot committed". On the other hand, don't bet too LITTLE. When you bet too
little, your opponents will see right through it. And it won't be enough to scare
the mediocre hands away.
For example, let's say you've got 9-8 suited and the flop hits K-8-2 and you're
first to act. You don't want to CHECK because you know the guy after you will
bet if you do. So you REPRESENT THE FLOP by throwing out a bet. If no one has
the King, everyone will probably fold to your bet. Even if someone DOES have
the King, they may fold if they don't have a decent kicker.

The key is you must make sure you BET ENOUGH. If you only bet the minimum
amount here, someone with A-4 might call the bet, simply because the pot odds
are in their favor. And if the Ace hits on the turn, you're in trouble.
So, always be sure to bet BIG ENOUGH to scare out the bad and mediocre hands,
but SMALL ENOUGH to not get in trouble if you lose the chips.
RULE #2: Whenever possible, represent the flop when you have OUTS. This is a
strategy most players don't quite "get" until you've been playing poker for a
LONG time. Here's the thing: If you represent the flop frequently every single
time you play Texas Holdem, you want the odds to be as much in your favor as
possible.
In the scenario above, for instance, representing the flop with middle pair is a
good move. Because you have some OUTS. If another 8 hits on the turn or
river, you're going to have three-of-a-kind. Obviously, hitting the eight is NOT
likely (about 8.42%). But, there's STILL A CHANCE, and that's what is important.
Think about it: Let's say you have just a 5% chance of hitting one of your OUTS
that would cause you to have the best hand at the table.
Well, if you represent the flop fifty times and get a caller TWENTY times, that
means you'll MAKE your hand (on average) one time out of these twenty. And
when you DO make your hand, you'll BUST your opponent and win a ton of
chips. Make sense?
This is kind of a MENTAL DISTINCTION that separates the pros from the
wannabes. Pros think about the LONG TERM ODDS of playing. They don't base
their decisions on situational circumstances alone. They base them on WHAT
WORKS OVER THE LONG TERM.
That's how you develop a CONSISTENT winning career. Because as you'll see in
the next rule, you don't want to CONTINUE to represent the flop if people stay in
the hand with you, unless you're confident that you can get them to fold. But
usually, if someone calls or raises, you want to "let up". Don't risk more chips
when someone's got you beat.
So, by representing the flop when you have OUTS you'll open yourself up to the
chance of MAKING YOUR HAND on the turn (or sometimes river).
RULE #3: If you get raised, muck it.
All of these rules are general in nature, especially this one. Obviously you don't
want to ALWAYS FOLD every time someone makes a raise. BUT USUALLY, if you
represent the flop with a bet and someone comes back over the top of you, that
opponent will MOST LIKELY have a strong hand (maybe even a monster).
It's not logical to continue to bluff at the pot if you're up against a surefire
winning hand. You'll lose too many chips that way. That's the downside of
being an aggressive player: You've got to give up and cut your losses quite
often. Discipline yourself to do it.

RULE #4: Change gears with your betting amounts.

As we discussed earlier, one of the benefits to representing the flop is that
opponents will give you more ACTION during the game because they'll "catch
on" to your aggressive style.
That does NOT mean, however, that you should become PREDICTABLE. Being
predictable is a recipe for disaster. And that's why you've got to "change gears"
and "mix it up" with your betting.
For example, in our scenario where you made a bet with your 9-8 suited (middle
pair), let's say your bet was for 50 and then someone RAISED YOU to 200. Your
opponent probably has the King and a good kicker, maybe even two pair. So,
you fold your middle pair with a loss of only 50 chips.
NOW, when you fold, everyone at the table will SEE that you just made a bet and
then folded to a raise. This will tell them that you were betting WITHOUT a good
hand after the flop.
Now, let's say a few hands later the flop comes out 5-A-Q and you're second to
act and you've got pocket deuces. Your first opponent checks.
Now, although you know someone at the table probably has you beat right now,
you're not sure if someone has the Ace, because there weren't any pre-flop
raises.
So, you REPRESENT THE FLOP (and the Ace) by betting. (Remember, you also
have outs here, if a two comes you'll make trips.) The key is to NOT BET 50
again, as you did with your eights just a few hands ago. If you bet 50 again or
always bet 50 when you represent the flop, your opponents will know exactly
what you're doing and read right through you.
If Blake, who's sitting to your left, is only holding the Queen, he's going to fold if
he thinks you've got the Ace. But if he thinks you're just REPRESENTING the flop,
he will call your bet. And you DO NOT want that to happen (because his Queens
are better than your two's).
So, instead of betting 50 again, you bet 150 this time. This way you stay out of
any PATTERNS that will give away your hand and increase the odds that
everyone will put you on the Ace and fold.
RULE #5: After you get better at representing the flop, INTENTIONALLY STOP
mixing up your bets in order to trap your opponents. This is a "tricky" play that
works very well against intermediate poker players.
Here's how it goes:
When you represent the flop and get "caught" in your semi-bluff, use the event
to YOUR ADVANTAGE to bust your opponents.

Let's use the example from before with the 9-8 suited:
You got middle pair. You bet 50. Your opponent raised. And then you folded.
Well, let's say you represented the flop AGAIN a few hands later with a bet of 50.
And then you got caught AGAIN when your opponent raised you and you were
forced to fold.
After watching this happen two or three times, your opponents will suddenly
think they're geniuses and that they've got you "figured out". They'll think,
"Whoa, when he bets 50 on the flop he doesn't have anything and all I have to
do is raise in order to scare him away." And of course, you're doing this ON
PURPOSE in order to trap your opponents.
Let's say a few hands later you get dealt pocket fours. The flop comes: 4, 7, J.
You've flopped trips. Now what?
Well, since you've built a reputation for
betting on the flop no matter what happens, you can feel safe betting and you'll
probably get action. But what KIND of action are you looking for?
You want to get as many chips into this pot as possible. So, you take advantage
of the "trap play" that you've created and you bet 50...again. This time, your
opponents think they've got you figured out. They think to themselves, "That
flop didn't help him one bit, he's just up to his old ways."
So your opponent RAISES you. And that's where you GET REWARDED for the trap
you set up. Now you can either re-raise, or maybe call and hope that your
opponent tries buying the pot again after the turn card. It doesn't really matter.
Because as long as there aren't any draws out there, you can feel safe in
knowing that you'll win the hand and a nice pot either way.
It's amazing to me how easily players will fall into this trap. (Especially with
online poker.) But remember, only use this trap play AFTER you have mastered
the first four rules for representing the flop. And be sure that you aim the play
at intermediate players, as they'll fall for it the quickest.
There's one last component I want to mention here that relates to our
discussion of representing the flop and that's what you should do when you
make a PRE-flop raise. My technique is simple:
If I raised before the flop, I will come out betting AFTER the flop, no matter what
hits. The reasoning is simple...
For starters, NOT betting after the flop is like waving a red flag and TELLING
your opponents that the flop didn't help you. If you represent the flop after
your pre-flop raise, your opponents won't know what to put you on. They'll be
more likely to fold. And using this strategy over and over and over again pays
off in the long run. Because after awhile your opponents will catch on. And this
benefits you in three ways:

1. You'll get more action when you catch a BIG hand.

2. Your opponents will fold more frequently to your pre-flop raises because they
know you're going to bet after the flop as well. This gives you the opportunity
to steal more blinds.
3. Your opponents will be easier to read. When they have a good hand they
won't be afraid of you and they'll come back over the top with a raise. This lets
you know that they've got you beat and that you should just minimize your
losses and fold.
Learning how to PROPERLY represent the flop is a crucial aspect of Texas
Holdem.
The Right Time To Chase A Straight
Chasing straights and draws will BURN you. There's no doubt about it. The
term "chasing" means you stay in the hand hoping to catch a certain card (or
cards) that will complete your straight.
The problem with chasing is that the ODDS ARE AGAINST YOU. And as you
know, successful Texas Holdem poker is all about keeping the odds in your
favor. But, sometimes chasing a straight IS the right thing to do. SOMETIMES.
Let me explain. First off, let's look at the two different types of straight draws:
1. GUTSHOT - This is when you're trying to make an INSIDE straight, like if you
have 4-5-6-8 and you need the 7.
2. OPEN-ENDED - This is when TWO cards can "make" your straight, like if you
have 4-5-6-7 and need EITHER the 3 or the 8.
There's also what's called a "double belly buster", which is actually like two
gutshots at once. We'll talk about this a little later.
OK, so how should you play a gutshot straight draw? Let's look at the odds, if
you FLOP an inside (gutshot) straight draw, the odds of making your straight are
16.47%. If you have an inside straight draw after the TURN with just the river
card to go, your odds are 8.70%.
So, the odds aren't good. 16.47% might SOUND like it's worth it, but you've got
to ANTICIPATE the bet after the turn card.
For instance, let's say you flop an inside straight draw and someone makes a big
bet. If you call and then miss your straight on the turn, what then?
Your opponent makes ANOTHER big bet. Do you call to see the river card? You
feel pot committed, but you know the odds are against you. This is how you get

into trouble with gutshot straight draws. You become pot committed and you
chase a hand that's not worth chasing.
As a general principle, you should NOT chase gutshot straight draws, especially
on the river.
When I flop a gutshot, I might call a small bet but that's it. And that's only when
the odds are worth it. As we'll discuss in a moment, you must also factor in the
IMPLIED ODDS, but first, let's look at how to play open-ended straight draws.
For an open-ended straight draw, your odds of making your straight are MUCH
better. If you flop an open-ender your odds of hitting are 31.45%. If you have
an open-ender with just the river card to go, your odds are 17.39%.
Notice that you have BETTER chances of completing an open-ended straight
draw just on the RIVER than completing a gutshot straight draw on both the turn
AND the river. Interesting, huh? OK, so what's the right way to play an openender? Many players will just CHECK with an open-ended straight draw and then
CALL any bets.
This is REACTIVE card playing and it's the WRONG thing to do. You need to be
PROACTIVE and here's why:
Let's say you've got 6-7 of diamonds and the flop hits: 4, 5, K
You've got the top half of an open-ended straight draw, either an 8 or a 3 will
give you the nut straight. The NATURAL TENDENCY here is to check. You don't
have ANYTHING yet, no pairs, no high cards, nothing. So obviously you'd LOVE
to wait to see if you make your straight before you risk any chips, right? Wrong.
If you just check, you're making three dangerous mistakes:
Mistake 1 - You're showing weakness.
Mistake 2 - You're not increasing the pot size.
Mistake 3 - You're giving your opponent a read on you.
There's a strange analogy I like to use for this. If you're ever in the forest or
wilderness and you encounter a bear, mountain lion, bobcat, or any other
PREDATOR, the NATURAL TENDENCY is to get scared. Most people would run
away! However, the RIGHT thing to do is to SHOW AGGRESSION and NOT show
fear. I'm dead serious here.
The right thing to do if you see a bear is to make a lot of noise, to raise your
hands in the air and possibly hold up a coat or jacket (in order to appear
bigger), and to snarl or growl. It's counter-intuitive, but it's what you MUST do if
you don't want to get attacked (or eaten).
Now, back to Texas Holdem. Lol. Your OPPONENT is your PREDATOR. Show
them weakness and they will likely attack you. When you have an open-ended

straight draw, you want to see the next two cards and you don't want to risk a
lot of chips to do so. So, the RIGHT PLAY is to BET or RAISE the pot.
In our example above, you want to throw out a reasonably-sized bet. Your
opponents might fold right there. Or you might get one or two callers. NOW,
when the TURN card comes, your opponents will probably check to you. So
basically you're getting a FREE CARD. You can check and see the river for free.
If you HADN'T taken control of the betting, your opponents would have made
you PAY A LOT to see the river card. And you might of been forced to FOLD
your open-ended straight draw. By taking control of the betting and coming out
strong after the flop, you're actually investing LESS money overall to see the
next two cards.
Now, the other reason taking control is important is because it doesn't give your
opponent a read on you. Say your opponent checks the flop and you also check.
The turn card comes and it's a 3, giving you the straight. Your opponent checks
again and now all of the sudden you come out betting strong. Obviously, your
opponent will SEE what's going on here and will have a hunch that you just made
your straight and he'll fold.
If you DON'T bet after the 3, the odds of you making any real money off of this
hand are slim, and you've let your straight go to waste. So, the key is to bet
EARLY, that way if you HIT you're golden and you'll get paid. And if you DON'T
hit you won't have to invest any more chips.
Say you took control of the betting after the flop and your opponent called with
A-5. He's probably putting you on the King, but isn't sure. He's got middle pair
along with an Ace. The turn card comes and it's a 3, so you bet again. Your
opponent calls again.
Finally the river hits and it's an Ace, giving your opponent TWO PAIR. By now
he's confident that you have the King and not the straight since you were
betting consistently after the flop. So, your opponent puts you ALL-IN with his
hand, not knowing that you've got him DOMINATED. You win a big pot, all
because you played the open-ender properly.
There's also what's called a "double belly buster" straight draw. A regular
(single) belly buster is simply an inside straight draw. A DOUBLE means there
are TWO different cards to make your straight, but it's not open-ended.
For example, if you were holding A-5 and the flop hit 3, 4, 7 you would have a
DOUBLE BELLY BUSTER. Either a 2 or a 6 would give you a straight.
Double belly busters are great because your opponents will often never see
them coming and your odds of hitting are the same as an OPEN-ENDED straight
draw. When an opponent doesn't put you on a hand, THAT is when you'll be
able to win the most chips. This is known as IMPLIED ODDS.

Implied odds means that when you make your hand, you're going to get paid a
LOT for it. Implied odds is a very important part of making decisions in Texas
Holdem, just like regular odds. Except the key distinction is that implied odds
doesn't necessarily involve numbers or math percentages.
Implied odds is more about getting a SENSE for how big the pot will be if you
make your hand. When your implied odds are HIGH, you can often bet more
early in order to build the pot size.
An example of high implied odds is when there's a straight draw on the board
with HIGH CARDS. For instance, let's say you're holding J, 10 and the flop comes
Q, K, 3.
You've got an open-ended straight draw, but you might face opponents who
have a REALLY GOOD HAND right now...something like AK, AQ, or KQ. An
opponent with a big hand is going to be very aggressive with his bets and if a 9
or an Ace hits, you're going to win a ton of chips. Those are high implied odds.
On the other hand, this type of flop is BAD for you because it means you'll
probably have to PAY DEARLY to see the turn and river cards. Be careful, don't
chase the straight if it's going to break your chip stack.
An example of a straight with LOW implied odds would be when it's all low cards
on the board. After all, if no one has anything decent, no one is going to give
you a lot of action.
When you have an open-ended straight draw with low cards and you sense
weakness in your opponents, the best move is to act aggressively and take the
pot down right there. After all, nearly 70% of the time you are NOT going to hit
your straight. So, if you can win the pot by betting, do so.
If you do get a caller, that's OK too, because you still have a lot of outs and a
good chance at busting your opponent (and now the implied odds are higher
since he's pot committed and must have a good hand).
Another example of low implied odds is when the straight draw on the board is
OBVIOUS. This is especially relevant when there's only ONE card needed to
make the straight.
For instance, let's say you have K-7 and the board reads 3-4-5. And then the turn
card comes and it's a 6. Of course, with 3-4-5-6 on the board, your opponents
WILL be suspicious that someone has the straight. This type of situation is
sometimes good for a check-raise or a strong bet to make it LOOK like you're
buying the pot. (It just depends on your table image.)
With straight draws, be extra careful to pay attention to what ELSE is out there
on the board. You will often encounter hands that BEAT you and wipe out your
entire chip stack.

For instance, look for possible FLUSH draws. If your opponent might have made
a flush, back off. Muck the hand if you need to and live to see another day. Full
houses are dangerous too. If two cards on the board pair up, be careful. And
last but not least, always think about what OTHER straights are possible. For
instance, if you're holding 2, A and the flop hits 3, 4, 5, you have the BOTTOM
end of the straight. Someone could have 7,6, or maybe 6,2, and would have you
beat.
It's the same way with our double belly buster example. In that example the
flop was 3, 4, 7 and you had A, 5. Let's say a 6 hit the board. Even though you
have the straight (3, 7), it's NOT the best possible straight. Your opponent
could be holding 8, 5which would be the nut straight.
It's the same way with FOUR consecutive cards on the board. If the board reads
5, 6, 7, 8 and you've got the 9, that doesn't mean you have the "nuts". The nuts
would be 9, 10 which would give someone the straight (6-10). The possibilities
are ENDLESS and you'll soon discover that the more you play Texas Holdem the
more IMPORTANT every possibility becomes.
For the most part, keep in mind that you want to only "chase" a straight when
the odds of hitting are most favorable, when the implied odds are good, and
when you think you can see a cheap (or free) river card.
Knowing how to INCREASE your winnings and DECREASE your losses is the name
of the game. Strategies like these will also minimize your risk during each pot
and help you secure a CONSISTENT winning streak.
The Right Times to Move "All-In"
I have a new idea that I wanted to share with you. I call it the "All-In Factor". No
limit Texas Holdem poker is the game of choice for most card players these
days. I know I certainly prefer it. But, a lot of my opponents don't know how to
truly USE and LEVERAGE the "All-In Factor" to their advantage.
What I mean is, going "all-in" is SO POWERFUL and SO IMPORTANT, yet most
players don't know the right times to make this bold move. They just wait for
the "nuts" to come along and THEN they go all-in. Make sense?
I'd like to share with you some of my thoughts on how, when, where, and why to
go "all-in" against your opponents. Not only is this move what makes no limit
poker so EXCITING, but this is also the KEY DISTINCTION between limit and no
limit Holdem and it's why no limit requires more of a "ballsy" personality.
Contrary to popular belief, the All-In Factor actually adds MORE SKILL to the
game of poker, just not in the sense of math or odds. Instead, "all-in" requires
the skills of PSYCHOLOGY, intimidation, and bluffing.

When you learn the right times to go all-in, you'll have a consistent EDGE over
your opponents and THAT, my friend, will help you beat the game over and over
and over (even when you don't have good cards).
OK, let's get started. One of the core principles of poker is that it's always much
easier to BET than it is to CALL.
I mean, think about it: You can make a BET without actually having good cards you might be on a bluff, you might be "representing" the board, you might just
have middle pair and so on.
But to CALL a bet, you want to have a strong hand. Because now your
OPPONENT is representing good cards. If you don't have a read on him, then it's
going to be harder to CALL his bet.
I look at it this way: It's much easier to SHOOT a bullet than to DODGE a bullet
(and I'm not talking about Aces here).
That's one of the reasons why I like to go with an aggressive style of play. I win
a lot more pots even when I DON'T have good cards, because my opponents are
forced to fold to me.
Anyway, this idea that it's easier to BET than CALL couldn't be more true than
with ALL-IN BETS. It is TEN TIMES EASIER to push all your money in the middle
than it is to CALL an all-in bet.
When your opponent goes all-in, he has put you to a decision for all your chips.
Your life in the game/tournament could be OVER with just this one pot. In order
to call, you must be CONFIDENT that you have him beat. But, in order to make
an all-in bet yourself, you just need to be confident that your opponent will
FOLD or that you have him beat. This gives the person MAKING the all-in bet
the advantage every time. And that leads to our second main principle, which is
this:
If you don't risk chips, you can't win chips. Period. Now obviously, your
strategy should be to MINIMIZE your risk and MAXIMIZE your winnings, but no
limit Texas Holdem gives you the unique opportunity to win big pots with all-in
bets, even when you don't have the best hand.
The All-In Factor is what allows you to BULLY your opponents and take a
DOMINATING position. One of the best times to go all-in is to STEAL a pot from
your opponent, but when you steal pots, you must be sure the hand meets these
conditions:
1. You want OUTS. If your opponent calls, there should be cards left in the deck
that can help you still win the hand. Even if the odds are not good, you want
outs.
2. You must have a solid read on your opponent. If you're stealing a pot, you
must be confident the other player is going to fold.

3. You want good positioning. This isn't as important as the first two
conditions, but positioning is what usually allows you to get a read on your
opponents.
Let's look at an example. Say you've get dealt 8-7 of diamonds while you're on
the button. That means you've got a "hidden hand" with the best positioning.
Three players limp-in and the action is to you. You raise the pot to $15, a nice
raise in this $1-2 no limit cash game. The small and big blinds fold. But, then
Brian, who's under the gun, comes back over the top of you and raises it to $30.
Ouch. You forgot that Brian is a smart player who doesn't play anything but
premium hands while under the gun. He limped-in, which was the "red flag"
that he had something good. Anyway, the action goes around and Jared, the
guy to your right, ALSO calls the bet of $30.
So, it's $15 more to call and the pot size is already up to $80. With your
positioning and the pot odds, you decide to call and see a flop. You don't like
the way this hand is going so far, because now you have $30 invested with just
suited-connectors and you're putting Brian on a hand like A-K, A-Q, or maybe
something like pocket Jacks. If he had anything better he would have been
more aggressive than simply raising $15.
OK, so the flop comes out: 3s, 4s, 5s
Wow. Interesting flop. 3-4-5 of spades.
Brian bets $10 into the pot. You know this flop didn't help him one bit. The
only reason he's making this small bet is because he raised before the flop. You
can tell right away that he doesn't like what he sees on the board.
Jared mucks his hand. So, now the action is to you. There's $90 in the middle.
You've got about $350 more in chips, and Brian has about $225. THIS is one of
those times to consider going all-in.
You don't have a single spade and that's not good. But, you do have the gutshot
straight draw. There's a 16.47% chance that a six will hit on the turn or river.
But, that's not why you're going all-in. You want to make a move at this pot
because you've VERY confident that Brian is going to fold.
For all Brian knows, you could have two spades, or the straight, or a straight
draw and flush draw, or even a straight flush.
The truth is, Brian probably has the best hand right now with two overcards. He
may even have a high spade. But, that won't be enough for him to justify calling
an ALL-IN bet. Brian's smart. There are simply too many cards out there that
can beat him. So, you go all-in and he mucks it, making you $90 richer.

When stealing a pot like this, be sure it's worth the risk. The fewer players in
the hand, and the more money in the middle, the better the payoff is to you.
The key is knowing that your opponent is going to fold. If you're up against
someone who's too smart (or too dumb) to muck it, then you're in trouble.
That's where the OUTS come in.
Let's say Brian looked at you and said, "Well, I know you've got the flush, but I
can't lay this down." And then he called, flipping over an Ace of hearts and an
Ace of clubs. Now you're in trouble, of course. But at least you left yourself
some outs, you've got a 16.47% chance of hitting that six. And you've also got
the slight chance that two more spades come out or the board makes a straight
(which would be a split pot).
And last but not least, if everything goes wrong and you lose this pot to Brian,
you've still got $125 in chips. Which brings me to my next pointand that is
the SIZE OF YOUR STACK. Stack size is an extremely important component of
the All-In Factor. Here's what I mean:
First of all, if you're going to play a hand aggressively, you always know that it
COULD lead to all-in bets. That's why you want to go after players with
SHORTER stacks than you. If the worst case scenario occurs and you lose an allin match, at least you're not out of the game.
This has a secondary benefit, too. If a player has fewer chips, he'll be easier to
"push around" and "bully". That lowers your risk further. Of course, this gets
more complicated. You want to be very careful about stealing pots or making
stone cold bluffs against anyone who's "short-stacked".
If you've got $400 in chips and your opponent has $40 in chips, you wouldn't
make the same kind of bluff as you did against Brian in the example. A player
who's short-stacked is ITCHING to move all his chips in as soon as he picks up
ANY type of hand. So, you can't bluff him out of the pot.
What you CAN do, however, is put the short-stack all-in BEFORE THE FLOP when
you have something decent, therefore putting him to a decision for all his chips.
If he calls, it will probably be a loose call, and you have a chance at winning a
good pot. If he folds, you win the blinds. And if he wins, you only lose 1/10 of
your stack.
Let's look at another quick example. Say Brian has $40 in chips and you've got
$400 in chips. You're third to act before the flop, which isn't very good
positioning. Brian's second to act. Brian goes all-in with his short stack. You
look down to see pocket Kings. You know you've got him beat. What should
you do?
The answer is NOT to call. Instead, you should ALSO go all-in. With Kings, you
don't want multiple players in the hand seeing a flop. You just want to take
Brian's $40 and the blinds that are already in there. You must make a move to

scare out the remaining three players behind you, otherwise there's a good
chance you'll get run down.
Let's say you just CALL, and then Drew also calls with an A-8 suited. The flop
hits: A, 4, J
And now you lost the hand, because Drew caught his top pair. But, if you had
moved all-in before the flop, Drew and everyone else would have folded. Then,
it'd just be you and Brian, as Brian flips over his losing pocket 8's.
That brings up another good point:
Players will make LOOSE CALLS to all-in bets when there's a chance at
eliminating someone from the table. This is most relevant in tournament play.
You see, eliminating someone from the table means each player is CLOSER to
finishing in the money. So, it's in everyone's BEST INTERESTS to "knock off" the
short stack.
This is something you can use to your advantage when YOU are playing shortstacked. If you pick up a monster hand, you can be assured that you'll get lots
of action with it and if it holds, you might even TRIPLE up (or better).
But, that's also a reason why you cannot make an all-in BLUFF when you're shortstacked. You can't bluff anyone out of a pot because you don't have enough
chips to scare them off.
"All-in" is only intimidating when you have lots of chips. When you DON'T have
lots of chips, your opponents will be HAPPY you're all-in, because it means
you're that much closer to getting eliminated.
Even if you're NOT short-stacked, this principle is true when facing players who
have a LOT more chips than you. Let's say you're 4th in chips at a 6-man table
with about $80 in front of you. Don't try to bluff at a pot with an "all-in" against
the chip leader, who's got $400. He can afford to make a call with just a
mediocre hand or a draw. For him, $80 won't hurt his stack much and the
chance of knocking you out is worth the risk.
So, when WOULD BE the right time to go all-in when you're short-stacked?
The obvious answer is "when you have a hand". But, as you know, you won't
always get good cards. As a general rule, I "make my stand" when I'm getting
down to about ten times the big blind. Lower than that will be too short-stacked
to make bluffs that will scare anyone out of the pot.
With more than 10x the big blind, I'm usually able to steal some blinds and get
myself back in the game. If I run into a monster, or get outdrawn, oh well.
There's nothing I can do. But usually, since I make my stand based on chip
stacks, positioning, and sensing weakness, I WON'T get any callers to my bold
"all-in" and I'll rake in the pot.

This is also one of my fundamental techniques for not getting "blinded to death"
and for staying in a game even when I'm NOT catching good cards.
OK, let's review:
The "All-In Factor" is a key technique for no limit Texas Holdem. Not only does
it separate limit from no-limit, but it also separates the "men from the boys", so
to speak.
When you go all-in WITHOUT a monster, be sure you have OUTS. These will
come in handy over the long term.
Don't bluff against someone who's got way more chips than you and don't bluff
when you're the short-stack at the table.
If you're getting low on chips, make your all-in move when you're getting down
to about 10x the big blind.
If the short-stacked player at the table goes all-in and you've got a big hand,
don't CALL. Be sure YOU go all-in too, that way you scare the other players out
and decrease the chances of getting run down.
Remember, it's always easier to BET than CALL, and you can never win what you
don't put into the middle.
The All-In Factor is a strategic maneuver that you can use to "own" your
opponents and win more money at the poker tables. But, it's not the only one.
Do you make these 7 poker mistakes?
In my time as a card player, I've found these 7 simple mistakes to be responsible
for TONS of lost pots and lost money. Ultimately, if you make them, you'll end
up like the rest of the "suckers" out there.
Either that, or you'll give up at poker (claiming that it's based on "luck"), and
never play again...
So, here are the seven mistakes to avoid:
1. Getting Too Emotional
Don't let your emotions come out at the card table! It's easy to get "into" the
game, but you've got to practice self- control! By staying cool, calm, and
disciplined, you'll be able to concentrate on your strategy and winning the hand.
2. Focusing Too Much On The Cards
Remember, poker is about the PLAYERS rather than the HANDS. Sure, what
cards you have is definitely important, but the only way to consistently WIN

Texas Hold 'EM poker is if you are able to "read" the other players at the table.
Study their habits, watch their faces, observe their peculiarities and THEN focus
on your own hand.
3. Folding Instead Of Checking
Don't fold if you can check! Unless it's part of some "bigger strategy" you've got
going (like the ones I talk about in my book), then it's silly to fold a hand when
you can just check instead.
4. Trying Too Hard To "Fool" The Opponent
Many beginners try to deliberately "fool" the other players by "acting" a certain
way. This usually backfires. Most people are good at reading body language,
and your pretending will only give you away.
A better strategy is to let your ACTIONS fool the other players. Keep your poker
face straight and calm and let them fall for the bait by making bets or placing
action in ways that will confuse them.
5. Being Too Consistent
The easiest way to win easy money at the poker table is to just study a person's
habits for awhile, and then take advantage of them hand-by-hand because
they're so predictable.
Don't be this kind of sucker!
If you make the same moves and same bets at the table every time you play,
other players will pick up on it so fast that you'll be out of chips in no time.
Be "spontaneous" in a calculated way, and be unpredictable. It will frustrate the
other players and you'll win all their chips.
6. Not Adapting To The Skill Level Of Others
Everyone knows that some of poker's greats are most frequently beat by
BEGINNING players at the card table. A lot of professionals refuse to play with
"newbies" because they know there's such a high risk of losing and being
embarrassed.
So how exactly can these beginners beat these PROS? It's simple. The pros are
SO MUCH BETTER at poker, that they are actually FOOLED by how BAD these new
players are.
The pros are USED TO playing against other pros, which makes it difficult for
them to even "remember" how to play against beginners.
Every card table is different. You need to learn how to adapt your game to each
different situation. Sometimes you'll have to increase the complexity of your

strategy. Other times you'll need to "dumb down" the strategy and only focus
on the habits of the players.
7. Not Getting Help.
You weren't BORN knowing how to play Texas Holdem. You were TAUGHT how
to play. The problem is, most players never bother to take their skills to the
NEXT LEVEL, by getting professional instruction.
In less than a few hours, you can increase your skill at this game
TREMENDOUSLY. You can win more pots night after night and discover the
secrets to making tons of cash playing poker in your spare time.
My Trip To The World Series Of Poker
I just got done playing in the World Series of Poker in Las Vegas. How did I do?
I've posted a full run-down of the tournament on my site, and believe me, you
DO NOT want to miss this. Click here to check it out. (With pics! I'm sure you'll
recognize some of these faces.)
http://www.Texas-Holdem-Secrets.com/cmd.php?af=276620
Know EXACTLY What Your Opponents Are Holding
***QUESTION FORM A READER***
Rory, Your newsletters have greatly helped my play I used to be a tight wad
player. Now that I have changed gears (play more aggressively) in my head its
thrown players off balance a lot. take notes on my friends poker play so it
helps me remember betting patterns etc.
I am really good at sniffing out stone cold bluffs (I've been known to call with
queen high before) or strong hands that are hard to recognize like small sets
and low and medium straights. I've even folded full houses before knowing that
other players have four of a kind by their erratic breathing and confidence in
their voice and shaky hands.
However, I need advanced improvement on reading tells and avoiding traps.
Other then the ones mentioned in Caro's book of poker tells; it is a little
outdated. Especially since I have had also a problem with reading people when
they play medium strength hands aggressively.
Especially in casino
tournaments unlike my weekly poker games with my friends.
After a while you learn your friends play but in tournaments they are all
strangers how to get a read on them? Some players bet medium strength (not
weak strength hands) aggressively. Does your e-book cover these questions?
Does it also have a section on poker tells, as well? I've played players giving off
false tells as a trap such as acting weak when weak and strong when strong?

My friends do this as well, giving off false tells doing the opposite of the
opposite of what you would expect - we've read the same books.
Thanks, A.C.
***MY COMMENTS***
I want to start off by saying CONGRATULATIONS, my friend. Calling bluffs with
a queen high and laying down full boats is a sign of a BALLSY player. That level
of faith in your abilities is a CRUCIAL step towards a successful poker career.
I am also impressed by your choice to take notes on your opponents. I notice
that there are a lot of players who CLAIM to want to be better, but don't take the
TIME to do what is needed.
As far as your question about reading poker tells against players you aren't
familiar with, here's what you can do:
When you are at a new table, it is obviously VERY important that you pay close
attention to the GAME and to the PLAYERS right away. Most players, when they
sit down, get so caught up in themselves and their own heads that they don't
even make it to this first step. To put it bluntly: "SIT DOWN, SHUT UP, and
WATCH."
Don't start running your mouth. Don't try to act cool and don't daydream. The
first few minutes you're at the table is the most IMPORTANT time in the game.
Once you've done this, be sure not to rush into any hands. In fact, I recommend
NOT getting involved in any hands at the very beginning and here's why:
If you're an experienced tournament player, you know that most players are
eliminated from tournaments when they are in "shuffle times" (when they are
moving from table to table). It is at these times when the BIGGEST MISTAKES are
usually made.
Let's say that you sit down at a new table. You may have been playing at a tight
table where you could buy a lot of pots. You sit at this new table and fall right
back into your betting pattern. You make a bold move, try to buy a pot, and get
burnt because THIS TABLE is much LOOSER than the last one.
This puts you at a disadvantage right away. One which you might not recover
from. When I move to a new table or begin at a game where I don't know the
players. I always wait at least 3-4 rounds of betting before I get involved in a
hand and a lot of times I wait EVEN LONGER.
This gives me a chance to get to know my opponents BEFORE I risk any chips. I
call it my "Study Period." Of course, the WHOLE GAME is a study period in itself,
but these first few hands is 100% devoted towards just watching my poker
opponents. And here's the added benefit:

If I don't know my competition, THEY don't know ME, either. By taking my time
and doing my study period, I learn about THEM, but they DON'T LEARN ABOUT
ME. If anything, they just ASSUME that I'm a tight player.
That means within 10 minutes, I immediately have an advantage over all the
other players at the table, even if I haven't won a pot yet or even played a hand.
OK, so when you do your study period, what should you look for?
A lot of newbies think it's all in the face and in the eyes, which is a mistake.
Most poker tells are the COMBINATION of an entire set of movements and
behavior. On TV, especially in movies, poker tells are portrayed as something as
simple as the twitch of a nose or the movement of a leg.
Kind of like in "Rounders," when Mike McDee figures out Teddy KGB based on
how he ate his cookies.
TAKE NOTE. For the most part, this type of portrayal of poker tells is a TOTAL
MYTH. If you think you can figure out a player's hand just based on how he
blinks, you're in for a rude awakening and you'll lose your chips fast.
In REAL LIFE (where you play), tells are much more complex. VERY RARELY are
they "cut and dry." When you study your opponents, here are the things you
should think about:
1. Past Play
Think about how this player has acted in the past. Is he usually strong or weak?
Aggressive or timid? Smart or dumb? And so on...
2. Timing
If your instinct tells you that a player deliberated for a long time trying to make
a choice, chances are that his hand isn't too strong. However, you should also
note how long he has taken to play in the past, to make sure that the move
wasn't just a regular timing move.
3. Posture
Especially with bad players, the posture of a player is a key tell that will reveal a
lot about a hand. If the person leans back, that USUALLY represents strength. If
he leans forward, that USUALLY represents weakness.
Once again, poker tells aren't black and white. It's a gray area, where everything
needs to be considered together.
4. Bet Amount

If a player tends to make small bets, but then places an unusually large bet, he
could be holding a strong hand. Or he may be trying to buy the pot.
Always watch for irregularities in betting patterns. Most amateurs don't mix up
their bets enough, which gives you an easy edge if you pay attention.
5. Pulse
This is one of the only "body tells" that I find works most of the time. You can
usually see the intensity of a player's pulse by looking closely at his neck. Often
if a player gets "shaky," he usually has a great hand. If the player is cool and
collected, it's probably a fake.
6. Your Gut Feeling
Depending on your poker experience, your gut will often be your best guide.
I've been playing poker for so long now that when I sit down with newbies, I can
usually read the players almost INSTANTLY, without much thought.
It just comes naturally and it will come naturally to you, tooonce you gain a lot
of experience under your belt and once you spend enough time studying the
game.
With the pros, of course, you've got to be much more careful, because they DO
know how to disguise their tells and play their hands in an unpredictable
manner.
So, to recap:
1. When you sit down to play at a table of strangers, especially in a tournament,
take your time before becoming involved in a hand.
2. Go through a careful "Study Period." During this time, SHUT UP and STUDY
the players intensely.
3. When you start betting, watch for the six things we discussed: past play,
timing, posture, bet amount, pulse, and your own gut instincts.
Finally, there's one more step to add. And that is: NEVER REVEAL THE WAY YOU
THINK. Here's what I mean: Poker is truly a BATTLE of minds. The tells we've
been discussing are mostly simple REFLECTIONS of how a player is thinking at
the time of a bet.
For some reason, it's a natural tendency in all of us to share our thoughts at the
poker table. ESPECIALLY when we aren't involved in hands. This is more
common during "home games" than in tournament play or casinos.
For instance, let's say there's a heads up match between Drew and John after the
river card. Drew goes all in. The river was the third diamond on the board.
John has trip aces. (Of course, a flush would beat John's three of a kind.)

Anyway, John's has to decide whether Drew is a on a bluff or if he caught the

diamond flush. THIS is where everyone starts screwing up:
Since Drew is all in and can't change his mind, John shows his trip aces to the
other guys at the table who aren't in the hand.
He says, "Man, I don't know whether to call. Drew made a pre-flop raise. I think
he's just pot-committed and is trying to buy it." Someone else chimes in, "Yea,
but he seems like he's got the flush. Did you notice how he's been quiet the
whole hand?" Someone else says, "C'mon wuss. Just call his bet and go all in.
I'm getting tired and want to get going." And so on...
Do you see where I'm going with this?
John should NEVER show his aces to the other guys, of course, because now
they just saw an entire "free hand" and got to see how John acted the whole way
with his three of a kind.
The next guy just revealed that he's been watching how SILENT Drew has been
which clues everyone in on how this guy thinks about tells. Now you know to be
very conscious about how much you talk around this player.
And the third guy reveals an attitude of carelessness, which means as soon as I
caught a good hand I'd try to get in a heads-up match with him and go all in,
because there's a decent chance he'll call.
When you reveal your THINKING PROCESS, you're simply GIVING AWAY tons of
crucial information...FOR NO REASON. The other players at the table with pick
up a read on you quickly, both consciously and subconsciously. So don't do it.
Period.
As you know, Texas hold'em is filled with TONS of techniques and strategies like
these, that anyone can understand if they just take the time to learn them.
Unlike popular belief, poker is NOT about having "natural" talent. It's about
LEARNING through experience, analysis, and expertise, how to MASTER the
game.