LA 429/529

Guerrilla Garden
creating a community

https://goo.gl/9XrAH4

by
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Hannah Buckingham, Ariella Dahlin, Matt Gola

Table of Contents

Mission Statement 3

Project Description 3

Civic Ag, Community, Society 4

Constraints 6

Work Plan 6

Opportunities Matrix 8

Case Studies 9

Sources and Contacts 12

Appendix 1: How to Guides 13

Seed Ambassador Winter Garden Guide 13
Southern Willamette Valley Seeding Calendar 13
Onions 13
Garlic 14
Carrots 16
Potatoes 16
Lettuce 18
Basil 19
Cilantro 20

Appendix 2: Hierarchy of Roles 22

Appendix 3: Annotated Bibliography 23

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Mission Statement

The purpose of our project is to unite neighbors of Kincaid Alley between 29th
and 30th street into an Agrarian Collective in person and on facebook. We hope to
distribute Premade Garden Boxes -- made from recycled and donated materials --
amongst the neighbors. Collectively, neighbors can decide on a crop management
structure and a distribution scheme for the food produced in the free-to-use, communal
boxes. Our mission is to systematize the collective into a self-sustaining agrarian
community which continues to thrive after this academic term without our teams’
managerial presence.

Project Description

Our project culminates to a guerrilla garden located along Kinkaid Alley between
29th and 30th street. At present, we are waiting to hear back from Sanipac regarding the
donation of decommissioned glass recycling containers that we intend to use as
Premade Garden Boxes. Upon obtaining these donated containers we will assess the
volume of soil required to fill them and seek further donations of potting soil from
neighbors and local businesses. Once we have sufficient soil, we will seek out seeds
from community organizations and/or starters from FFLC and the UO Urban Farm.
Tasks:
Objectives
1. Create facebook group
● Establish a guerrilla garden
along Kincaid Alley between 2. Connect with the neighbors
29th and 30th
3. Create Premade Garden Boxes
● Bring the community together to
4. Host a planting Work Party
grow organic, nutritious food
5. Nourish facebook group
● Empower the community by
improving food security and 6. Decide on a crop management
health. structure

7. Harvest and distribute produce

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Civic Ag, Community, Society

Civic agriculture finds its roots in the intertwining of community and environment,
where it can develop and manifest into farmers markets and community agriculture. In
the face of industrial agriculture’s destructive and detached methodology, civic
agriculture looks to renew the connection between people and place. Civic agriculture
has the power to bring production and consumption activities into the core of a
community. This creates alternatives to the mass produced, narrow range of bulk
products industrial systems today focus on providing. Civic agriculture has the potential
to reconnect otherwise disjointed communities, create jobs, encourages
entrepreneurship, and strengthen the identity of communities.

Our project has its heart in the very idea of the word “civic”. Matt, living along this
alley, is someone personally involved and invested in that space, and while the physical
scope of our project is small, our chances to demonstrate the positive fruits of practicing
civic agriculture are great. Physically, our project may appear as a simple food-production
operation; however, the social and ecological implications will reach far beyond the
purely physical scope. Socially, we hope to bring the community together, to connect
people with food in a non-invasive, palatable manner.

We experientially show that you can save money by growing food within your own
community. For our guerrilla garden’s community, this means that they have the power to
help their own food insecurity. As a community they can help support their own health
and well-being. They can improve their nutritional and financial health of their own
accord, through their own combined, communal efforts. The communal aspect of this is
especially necessary and necessary for the civic nature we intend this operation to have.
By working in community we hope we can overcome the initial barrier of entry posed by
the hard work necessary to establish a garden. In community, following the concepts of
civic agriculture, our guerrilla garden should both benefit from the many hands in the
community and also benefit that same community.

On a social level, this project will empower and unite our community. The city of
Eugene has a laissez-faire attitude toward alley management, and thus our community
has the freedom to attempt a project like this. Our project will build a sense of community
because it will demonstrate to these homeowners that, with their own resources and
neighbors, they can build something fruitful and fertile, something that will improve their
personal health, community health, and the health of their surroundings. In this way, our
project has the potential to encourage a sense of capability and independence.
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The community itself has shown interest in this project. Opinions collected ranged
from neutral to enthusiastic. Nonetheless, within the community there are a handful of
stalwart, civic agriculture enthusiasts. We have high hopes that, by bringing together
these civic growers and others willing to volunteer, we can spread an understanding of
the value civic agriculture brings to a community. Hopefully, if we build it they will come.

Since the inception, our project has developed and organizations from Eugene
have responded positively to requests for contributions. Bring Recycling and Sanipac
especially have offered to contribute. Sanipac, furthermore, wants our project to feature
in their publication. What we are doing has thus spread to people beyond just the
geographical area bordering the alley. Neighborliness has been demonstrated by
complete strangers fielding unexpected requests from our group, and the positive
response is encouraging. A willingness to support our foray into civic agriculture will
hopefully, if our efforts are published, encourage others to attempt similar versions of this
project. Then, perhaps, other communities throughout Eugene can attempt similar
projects.
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Constraints

This project is primarily constrained by the legality and coordination of

implementation.

We understand the necessity of allowing emergency vehicles and work trucks

access to people, power lines and utilities. It makes sense that in Eugene it is unlawful to
park a vehicle, trailer, or boat in an alley. In order to steer clear of legal concerns, we will
encourage interested neighbors to store Premade Garden Boxes on the back-forty of
their own land rather than the alley. Nonetheless, if neighbors decide to store Premade
Garden Boxes in the alley, it appears that the Eugene Land Use Code is vague or unclear
about non-vehicle obstructions in alleyways. Considering that City of Eugene is runs on a
complaint based system, this project will remain guerrilla and thus sidestep any legal
approval or rejection. Hopefully, upon project success an opportunity for future municipal
collaboration and involvement will be created.

This project is a multistage process that is heavily reliant on the donations,

goodwill, and interest of neighbors and local organizations. Our project requires
technical coordination to create Premade Garden Boxes and establish an active
facebook group. We hope to this facebook group of local backyard gardeners will
mitigate any future constraints related to coordination. In order to meet these goals, the
following steps should occur:

Work Plan

1. Canvas the alley neighbors

1.1. Judge interest
1.2. Gain neighbor approval for project
1.3. Encourage neighbors to become involved
1.4. Record willing volunteer’s neighbor phone numbers

2. Construct Premade Garden Boxes

2.1. Reach out to local organizations for donations of raised bed material
2.2. Reach out to agroproduct business for donations of potting soil, compost,
and mulches
2.3. Use Bring Gift Voucher to buy chicken wire to preserve food for human
consumption (be avant garde, if necessary)
2.4. Inform neighbors about the newly prepared growing space
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3. Plant together and decide on crop management structure

3.1. Reach out for donation of seeds/starters from neighbors, coalitions, and
local organizations (volunteer at FFLC’s Starter Sale)
3.2. Organize a seed/start planting Work Party (ideally, with food)
3.3. Encourage attendees to join *Eugene’s Agrarian Collective* on facebook
3.4. Decide garden management structure at the Work Party
3.4.1. Option 1: Distribute Premade Growing Boxes amongst interested
neighbors ( w/ the stipulation that they post about surplus harvest on
facebook) AND use a hands-off management structure
3.4.2. Option 2: Distribute Premade Growing Boxes amongst interested
neighbors ( w/ “” ) AND assign them a specific crop (based on their
experience)
3.4.3. Option 3: Setup Growing Boxes in the alley midway between
interested neighbors houses AND use a hands-off management
structure
3.4.4. Option 4: Setup Growing Boxes in the alley midway between
interested neighbors houses AND assign roles (weeding, water, etc)

4. Harvest and distribute food

4.1. Encourage posting about individual harvests
4.2. Create events using the facebook group to organize Harvest Parties.
4.3. Exchange food
4.3.1. Option 1: Peer-to-peer exchange of food
4.3.2. Option 2: Coordinated collection and distribution of food boxes
4.3.3. Option 3: Take as you need from the central location
4.3.4. Option 4: Coordinated distribution of food boxes
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Opportunities Matrix

Low Cost Medium Cost High Cost

Neighbor only a few about half almost all

participation

Tool ownership ask neighbors + share costs for + build shed

permission necessary tools

Backyard unlikely maybe yes

renovation
assistance

Irrigation personal hose / communal hose / communal hoses /

recycled bottles watering head drip system

Plants kitchen herbs, root + squash, peppers, + salad greens,

vegetables eggplants tomatoes, fruits

Compost pile one two (ends of alley) four (two at each end)
creation

Mid-alley unlikely tbd yes

greenhouse
construction
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Case Studies

Beacon Food Forest Permaculture Project

Seattle, WA
https://beaconfoodforest.org/

The Beacon Food Forest (BFF) is a permaculture project located in Seattle,

Washington. A food forest is a sustainable food production and agroforestry system
modeled after woodland ecosystems. These systems are intended to be low-
maintenance and should have agricultural yields directly useful to humans. Food forests
mimic woodland ecosystems by substituting edible plants and trees for the flora usually
found in forests.

This particular project was an outgrowth of a 2009 permaculture design course

final project. When the final project was presented to the community and Seattle’s city
agencies it was taken up and made reality. Part of their success, according to BFF’s,
website, was the professional nature of their final project. When pitched, this project was
based on an actual site and had schematic designs drawn by a certified Landscape
Architect. Such a professional, well-developed presentation could be beneficial for
success should our project ever need to interact with city officials. Even so, within the
community, having quality schematics, designs, and visuals paired with proper language
might further help out project. The community also had input on the original idea and
design for the project. Part of what made it so successful was the initial integration with
community input and values. Thus, when the project went to present to the city, they
knew they already had the community enthusiastic and on board with their plan.

BFF is centered on helping its community and is also very dependent on volunteer
work by the community. They offer classes and regular community events calles “Work
Parties”. It appears they are strongly supported by donations and volunteer labor. Grants
and donations come from BFF volunteers, and on their website BFF is highly transparent
about where their grants have come from. The food harvested from the BFF certainly
benefits the community, but another aspect of the BFF is the education they provide.
This organization transparently and honestly asks its community to participate. Their
website is full of statements encouraging the community to participate. They have
educational workshops as well, and they also make it easy for community members to
teach a class. The BFF also self-describes as an organization intent of developing its own
food forest, but also as an organization dedicated to helping others build their own food
forests.
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This truly open and community-supported intent is key to the BFF. If their website
is any indication, they were built and designed for the local community. They are funded
by the community, educated by the community, served by the community, and they in
turn serve the community. Even the tagline on their website is “Community Powered”.
While community is a nice ideal, the BFF is a shining example of quality execution. They
make it easy to see that they have come from the community. They encourage the
community as well, and clearly still welcome input and contributions from their
community. This is an example we could take from, and it demonstrates that having and
enthusiastic and on-board community is incredibly beneficial for an agricultural project.

Alleycat Acres: an Urban Farming Collective

Seattle, WA
http://www.alleycat-acres.org/

Alleycat Acres is another urban farming collective. Though still clearly community-
oriented, Alleycat Acres is less transparent than the BFF regarding their origins.
Nonetheless, Alleycat Acres is a community-oriented urban farming operation. Their main
goals are to reconnect people, place, and produce “by transforming underutilized urban
spaces into neighborhood-run farms.” This effort consists of multiple small plots
throughout Seattle, which the organization has highlighted on their site.

Alleycat Acres has a distinctly social drive behind it. While building urban
agriculture efforts they are also intent on addressing issues surrounding food production
and access as well as cultivating diverse interactions between volunteers. Agriculture
serves them as a conduit to address food issues, but also as a way to bridge social gaps.
They hope to bring together people that otherwise might never interact, and therefore
encourage conversations and relationships with people of different backgrounds. There
is no doubting the agricultural drive of this effort, but the pairing with intently social
objectives is an interesting companion cause.

Alleycat Acres has a modern and versatile approach to their project, which
interactive maps and a calendar on their website. While they are not hosting events to
educate their community, their focus on urban agriculture as a way to reconnect and
build relationships in urban settings is a civic ideal. This organization’s unique collection
of small properties throughout Seattle, and their work with owners to convert land into
farms, is something we would like to model after. If we can expand our small alley effort
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into a multi-area project something like Alleycat, we can further our social impact as
Alleycat Acres has.

Bowling Alone by Robert D. Putnam, Huerto de la Familia, and Mathews Community

Garden in Eugene, Oregon.
In this article Putnam discusses how American community vitality has weakened.
He uses the example of how now more than ever, Americans bowl alone rather than in
leagues. This example is used to exemplify the social problem of Americans choosing to
to pull out of communities and community life, in preference of isolation. He discusses
the consequences of this including lower social capital, civic engagement, and distrust in
others. This trend continues to today, especially with continued isolation with social
media and its filtered opinion algorithms. One great combatant against this are
community gardens.

One great example of a successful community garden in Eugene, Oregon is

Huerto de la Familia. Huerto de la Familia is a non-profit organization that offer Latinx
families garden plots to grow culturally appropriate foods. These gardens allow a space
for those in the Latinx community in Eugene to connect, talk, share harvests, and even
start their own businesses. This is an important community to have with the current
Presidential Administration and Immigration and Customs Enforcement raids. Although
families do pay a small fee for plot access, that would not apply to our community garden
because the garden space is in the neighbors alley. Nevertheless, the success of
community building is shown at Huerto de la Famila’s many plots through the sharing of
culture and business ventures.

An example of a community garden that we can learn from here in Eugene is

Mathews Community Garden. Mathews Community Garden wrote in the Register Guard
about how the community garden was failing due to lack of city funding and how it was
mainly a commuter garden. One of the perks of our community garden located in an
alleyway is that we do not rely on city funding, only the kindness and goodwill of the
neighborhood. This kindness and goodwill will only increase with the presence of the
garden since communities increase social capital and trust: it will be a positive feedback
loop. Another perk is that because it is located in the alley way of the neighbors, it will
not be a commuter garden. Having a garden within walking distance makes it easier and
more likely for members to maintain the garden and further inspires a sense of
community.
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Sources and Contacts

Name Phone Number

Sanipac 541-736-3600

Bring Recycling 541-746-3023

Lane Forest Products 541-345-9085

Roots Organic 541-359-1580

7 Neighbors CONFIDENTIAL
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Appendix 1: How to Guides

Seed Ambassador Winter Garden Guide

The Seed Ambassador Winter Garden Guide is a great resource to see what crops are
good for overwintering and a brief how-to grow them. Find more information by
clicking the title or going to https://www.seedambassadors.org/wp-
content/uploads/2011/01/Big-Willamette-Winter-Garden-Chart-4.pdf.

Southern Willamette Valley Seeding Calendar

The Seed Ambassador Willamette Valley Seeding Calendar is a great resource to see
a time frame of when crops should be planted, and peak times to plant and harvest.
Find more information by clicking the title or going to
https://www.seedambassadors.org/wp-
content/uploads/2008/02/springseedingcalendar2008-2.pdf.

Onions

Planting:

● Plant onions as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring, usually late
March or April. Make sure outdoor temperatures don’t dip below 20°F (-6°C).
● Select a location with full sun, where your onions won’t be shaded by other plants.
● Soil needs to be well-drained, loose, and rich in nitrogen; compact soil affects bulb
development.
● Add aged manure or compost to the soil in early spring, before planting. Onion
plants are heavy feeders and need constant nourishment to produce big bulbs.
● At planting time, mix in some nitrogen fertilizer.
● Think of onions as a leaf crop, not a root crop. When planting onion sets, don’t
bury them more than 1 inch under the soil.
● For sets or transplants, space plants 4 to 5 inches apart in rows 12 to 18 inches
apart.
● Add mulch between the rows of onions. This will help retain moisture and stifle
weeds.

Harvesting:
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● Pull any onions that send up flower stalks; this means that the onions have
stopped growing. These onions will not store well but can be used in recipes
within a few days.
● When onions start to mature, the tops (foliage) become yellow and begin to fall
over. At that point, bend the tops down or even stomp on them to speed the final
ripening process.
● Loosen the soil around the bulbs to encourage drying.
● When tops are brown, pull the onions.
● Be sure to harvest in late summer, before cool weather. Mature onions may spoil
in fall weather.
● Clip the roots and cut the tops back to 1 inch (but leave the tops on if you are
planning to braid the onions).
● Let the onions cure on dry ground for a few days, weather permitting. Always
handle them very carefully—the slightest bruise will encourage rot to set in.
● Allow onions to dry for several weeks before you store them in a root cellar or any
other storage area. Spread them out on an open screen off the ground to dry.
● Store at 40 to 50°F (4 to 10°C) in braids or with the stems removed in a mesh bag
or nylon stocking.

Garlic

Planting:

● Plant in Fall before the ground freezes

● Break apart cloves from bulb a few days before planting, but keep the papery
husk on each individual clove.
● Place cloves 2 to 4 inches apart and 2 inches deep, in their upright position (the
wide root side facing down and pointed end facing up). Plant in rows spaced 10 to
14 inches apart. A single 10-foot row should yield about five pounds of the fragrant
bulbs.
● Mulch heavily with straw for overwintering.
● Mulch should be removed in the spring after the threat of frost has passed. (Young
shoots can’t survive in temps below 20°F on their own. Keep them under cover.)
● Cut off any flower shoots that emerge in spring. These may decrease bulb size.
● In the spring, as warmer temperatures come, shoots will emerge through the
ground.
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● Fertilize garlic in the early spring by side dressing or broadcasting with blood
meal, pelleted chicken manure or a synthetic source of nitrogen.
● Fertilize again just before the bulbs begin to swell in response to lengthening
daylight (usually early May in most regions).

Harvesting:

● Harvest from fall plantings will probably be in late July or August. The clue is to
look for yellow tops. Harvest when the tops begin to yellow and fall over, before
they are completely dry.
● Lift a bulb to see if the crop is ready. The garlic head will be divided into plump
cloves and the skin covering the outside of the bulbs will be thick, dry and papery.
If pulled too early, the bulb wrapping will be thin and disintegrate. If left in the
ground too long, the bulbs sometimes split apart. The skin may also split, exposing
the cloves and causing them not to store well.
● To harvest, carefully dig up (don’t pull) the bulbs with a spade or garden fork. Lift
the plants, carefully brush off the soil, and let them cure in an airy, shady, dry spot
for two weeks. Hang them upside down on a string in bunches of 4 to 6. Make
sure all sides get good air circulation. Be careful not to bruise the garlic or it won’t
store well.
● The bulbs are cured and ready to store when the wrappers are dry and papery
and the roots are dry. The root crown should be hard, and the cloves can be
cracked apart easily.
● Once the garlic bulbs are dry, you can store them. Remove any dirt and trim off
any roots or leaves. Keep the wrappers on—but remove the dirtiest wrappers.
Remove the tops and roots.
● Bulbs should be stored in a cool (40 degrees F), dark, dry place, and can be kept
in the same way for several months.

Diseases:

● White Rot is a fungus that may attack garlic in cool weather. Not much can be
done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning
up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The
fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots.
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Carrots

Planting:

● Plan to plant seeds outdoors 3 to 5 weeks before the last spring frost date.
● Plant carrot seeds 3 to 4 inches apart in rows. Rows should be at least a foot
apart.
● Carrots are slow to germinate. They may take 3 or more weeks to show any signs
of life, so don’t panic if your carrots don’t appear right away!
● Carrots are best grown in full sunlight, but can tolerate a moderate amount of
shade

Harvesting:

● Carrots should be mature and ready for harvest after about 2–4 months, or when
they reach at least ½ inch in diameter. You may harvest whenever desired
maturity is reached.
● If you’re growing carrots in the spring and early summer, harvest before daily
temperatures get too hot, as the heat can cause carrot roots to grow fibrous.
● Carrots taste much better after a couple of frosts. (A frost encourages the plant to
start storing energy—sugars—in its root for later use.) Following the first hard frost
in the fall, cover carrot rows with an 18-inch layer of shredded leaves to preserve
them for harvesting later.

Diseases:

● Aster Yellow Disease will cause shortened and discolored carrot tops and hairy
roots. This disease is spread by pests as they feed from plant to plant. Keep
weeds down and invest in a control plan for pests such as leafhoppers. This
disease has the ability to overwinter.

Potatoes

Planting:
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● Potatoes can be started 0 to 2 weeks after last spring frost. You may plant earlier,
as soon as soil can be worked, but be aware that some crops may be ruined by a
frost or wet soil.
● With a hoe or round-point shovel, dig a trench about 6 inches wide and 8 inches
deep, tapering the bottom to about 3 inches wide.
● Potatoes are best grown in rows. Space rows about 3 feet apart.
● Spread and mix in rotted manure or organic compost in the bottom of the trench
before planting.
● In the trench, place a seed potato piece, cut side down, every 12 to 14 inches and
cover with 3 to 4 inches of soil.
● 12 to 16 days after planting, when sprouts appear, use a hoe to gently fill in the
trench with another 3 to 4 inches of soil, leaving a few inches of the plants
exposed. Repeat in several weeks, leaving the soil mounded up 4 to 5 inches
above ground level (this is called “hilling”).

Harvesting:

● “New potatoes,” which are potatoes that are purposefully harvested early for their
smaller size and tender skin, will be ready for harvest 2 to 3 weeks after the plants
stop flowering. For mature potatoes, wait 2 to 3 weeks after the foliage has died.
● New potatoes should not be cured and should be eaten within a few days of
harvest, as they will not keep for much longer.
● Dig potatoes on a dry day. Dig up gently, being careful not to puncture the tubers.
Avoid cutting or bruising potato skin. The soil should not be compact, so digging
should be easy.
● If the soil is very wet, let the potatoes air-dry as much as possible before putting
them in bags or baskets.
● For the biggest and best potatoes, harvest only after the plant’s foliage has died
back.
● Cut browning foliage to the ground and wait 10 to 14 days before harvesting to
allow the potatoes to develop a thick enough skin. Don’t wait too long, though, or
the potatoes may rot.
● Allow freshly dug potatoes to sit in a dry, cool place (45–60°F/7–15°C) for up to
two weeks. This allows their skins to cure, which will help them keep for longer.
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● After curing, make sure you brush off any soil clinging to the potatoes, then store
them in a cool, somewhat humid, dark place. The ideal temperature for storage is
38 to 40°F (3 to 4°C).

Lettuce

Planting:

● Before you plant your lettuce seeds, make sure the soil is prepared. It should be
loose and drain well so it’s moist without staying soggy. To keep the soil fertile,
feed it with composted organic matter about one week before you seed or
transplant. Since the seed is so small, a well-tilled seedbed is essential. Stones
and large clods of dirt will inhibit germination.
● Direct sowing is recommended as soon as the ground can be worked. Plant seeds
½ inch deep. Snow won’t hurt them, but a desiccating cold wind will.
● If you want an earlier crop, however, you may start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks
before your last spring frost date for an earlier crop. Harden off seedlings for
about one week, and transplant outside between 2 weeks before and 2 weeks
after last spring frost.
● Seed may be sown in single rows or broadcast for wide row planting. When
broadcasting, you’ll need to “thin” for the proper spacing.
○ Leaf lettuce: Plant 4 inches apart.
○ Cos and loose-headed types: Plant 8 inches apart.
○ Firm-headed types: Plant 16 inches apart.
● Your rows of plants should be 12 to 15 inches apart.
● Cover the seeds with ¼ to ½ inch of soil.
● Water thoroughly at time of transplanting.
● Consider planting rows of chives or garlic between your lettuce to control aphids.
They act as “barrier plants” for the lettuce.

Harvesting:

● Lettuce should be harvested when full size, but just before maturity. The leaves
taste best when they’re still young and tender.
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● Before maturity, you can harvest leaf lettuce by simply removing outer leaves so
that the center leaves can continue to grow.
○ Butterhead or romaine types can be harvested by removing the outer
leaves, digging up the whole plant, or cutting the plant about an inch above
the soil surface. A second harvest is often possible when using the first or
third methods.
○ Crisphead lettuce is picked when the center is firm.
● Mature lettuce gets bitter and woody and will go bad quickly, so check your
garden everyday for ready-to-harvest leaves.
● It’s best to harvest lettuce in the morning before leaves have been exposed to
sun.
● As time passes and the plant loses vigor, you may be better off planting a second
round of seeds than waiting for new leaves.
● Keep lettuce in the refrigerator for up to 10 days in a loose plastic bag.

Basil

Planting:

● To get a head start, start the seeds indoors 6 weeks before the last spring frost.
● To plant outside, wait until the soil is at least 50 degrees—preferably around
70ºF for best growth. Don’t rush basil. Without heat, the plant won’t grow.
● Basil needs to be in a location that gets 6 to 8 hours of full Sun daily; soil should
be moist and well-drained.
● Plant seeds/seedlings about ¼-inch deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. They should
grow to about 12 to 24 inches in height. For smaller plants, plant farther apart
(about 16 to 24 inches).
● During the dry periods in summer, water the plants freely.
● Remember to pinch out the flower heads as soon as they appear to make sure
that the leaves will continue growing.
● Every time a branch has six to eight leaves, repeat pruning the branches back to
their first set of leaves.
● After 6 weeks, pinch off the center shoot to prevent early flowering. If flowers do
grow, just cut them off.
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● If the weather is going to be cold, be sure to harvest your basil beforehand, as the
cold weather will destroy your plants.

Harvesting:

● Start picking the leaves of basil as soon as they are 6 to 8 inches tall.
● Once temperatures hit 80 degrees, basil will really start leafing out.
● Make sure to pick the leaves regularly to encourage growth throughout the
summer.
● Even if you don’t need to leaves, pick them to keep the plant going. Freeze
the leaves.
● If you pick regularly, twelve basil plants will produce 4 to 6 cups of leaves
per week.
● The best method for storing basil is freezing. Freezing will prevent the plant
from losing any of its flavor. To quick-freeze basil, dry whole sprigs of basil
and package them in airtight, resealable plastic bags, then place in the
freezer.
● Another storage method is drying the basil (although some of the flavor will
be lost). Pinch off the leaves at the stem and place them in a well-ventilated
and shady area. After 3 to 4 days, if the plants are not completely dry, place
them in the oven on the lowest heat setting with the door slightly open.
Remember to turn the leaves (for equal drying) and check them frequently

Cilantro

Planting:

● Plant cilantro in the spring after the last frost date or in the fall.
● Do not grow in summer heat as the plants will bolt (such that it will be past
harvesting). The leaves that grow on bolted plants tend to be bitter in
flavor.
● It is best to choose a sunny site that will allow cilantro to self-seed as it is
ought to do. Plant in an herb garden or the corner of a vegetable garden.
When the weather gets warm, the plant will quickly finish its life cycle and
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send up a long stalk which will produce blossoms and later seeds. Little
plants will sprout during the season and the next spring.
● Plant the seeds in light, well-drained soil and space them 1 to 2 inches
apart. Sow the seeds at 3-week intervals for continued harvest.
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Appendix 2: Hierarchy of Roles

Although this is a community garden, sometimes it can be helpful to have a garden

manager and a community outreach coordinator. Find neighbors who are willing to take
on these roles. The role of garden manager includes:
● Admin of the community facebook page
● Host gardening and harvesting events in the garden
● Encouraging neighbors to post on Facebook and host events
● Ensuring that the garden is well kept, i.e. making sure pests are under control
The role of community outreach coordinator includes:
● Reaching out to community organizations to get donations of materials, i.e. seeds,
soil, raised bed materials
● Once materials are collected, organizing the construction of the garden
If other roles come up that are specific to the garden, more roles may be created. One
person may be able to fill multiple roles.
 23

Appendix 3: Annotated Bibliography

https://beaconfoodforest.org/
Beacon Food Forest is a Seattle urban farming initiative. Born out of a food forest
design class, this community-focused organization is fostering the growth of an edible
forest funded and operated by a community of volunteers. They are focused on
education and community contributions.

http://www.alleycat-acres.org/
Alleycat Acres is a Seattle urban farming initiative with multiple small parcels of
land which are cultivated by volunteers from throughout the city. This organization takes
an especially social lean with their agriculture and presents their farming as a way to
build diverse relationships from communities throughout Seattle.

https://www.registerguard.com/rg/opinion/31915420-78/city-fails-to-nurture-community-
garden-program.html.csp
This opinion piece focuses on the declining community gardens in Eugene. This
article focuses on the benefits of gardens, their potential value, and the value Eugene’s
garden’s could have if properly supported and managed.

Bowling Alone: The Collapse and Revival of American Community by Robert D.

Putnam
Bowling Alone is a book focused on how communities in American have broken
down. Social Isolation studies based on vast data show how our society is slowly
becoming more individualistic and makes recommendations for rebuilding.

Presentation from Organic Garden Program Manager and Farm Program Coordinator
of Huerto de la Familia Danielle Hummel
A presentation elucidating the who, what, where, and why of the Huerto de la
Familia garden program. This presentation discusses the significance and impact these
gardens have had.

https://www.eugene-or.gov/DocumentCenter/View/2704
City of Eugene Land Use Code

https://www.orcity.org/codeenforcement/code-enforcement-faqs
City of Eugene Code Enforcement FAQ