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The document discusses the formulation and evaluation of a herbal lipstick made from natural ingredients like strawberry juice, shikakai, ginger powder, and lemon juice. Various parameters of the formulated lipstick were tested such as color, melting point, and skin irritation.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
47 views36 pages

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The document discusses the formulation and evaluation of a herbal lipstick made from natural ingredients like strawberry juice, shikakai, ginger powder, and lemon juice. Various parameters of the formulated lipstick were tested such as color, melting point, and skin irritation.

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© © All Rights Reserved
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ABSTRACT

Herbal cosmetics are in rising demand in the world as these are priceless
gift of nature with enhanced activity and Jesser or no side effects . The
concept of beauty and use of natural cosmetics is as primordial as mankind
and civilization . Herbal cosmetics as the name suggests are natural and
free from all the destructive artificial chemicals . The present work was
aimed to formulate herbal lipstick by using various natural ingredients like
concentrated juice of strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa), shikakai, dried
ginger powder, lemon juice, coconut oil, beeswax, paraffin wax, strawberry
essence, vanilla essence , and so on . The formulated herbal lipstick was
evaluated and various parameters such as color, melting point, breaking
point, force of application , surface anomalies, pH, skin irritation test and
aging stability were determined and reported herewith.
KEYWORDS : Herbal cosmetics , Herbal lipstick, Natural Ingredients ,
Formulation, Evaluation.
INTRODUCTION
Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments, oils, waxes,
and emollients that apply color, texture, and protection to the lips.
Many colors and types of lipstick exist. Some lipsticks are also lip balms, to
add color and hydration.
Although the name originally applied to the baton (stick) of material,
within a tubular container, usually around 10mm in diameter and 50mm in
length the term now generally relates to the material itself, regardless of
method of application.
The demand of herbal cosmetics is increasing steeply as they are skin
friendly with no side effects. Normally herbal cosmetics are also referred to
as natural cosmetics. Herbal cosmetics are formulated by preparing a
natural base first in which one or more natural ingredients are
incorporated properly.
Herbal cosmetics are the most recent trend in the field of beauty and
fashion. These beauty products supply proper nutrients, enhance health
and ensure user satisfaction compared to the synthetic cosmetics.
Human skin acts as protective barrier, through which natural ingredients
penetrate. Therefore, consumers always search for natural-based cosmetics
to avoid allergic reactions and any sort of side effects. Lipstick is a lip
coloring agent that has its earliest use dating back to the prehistoric age. At
present , the popularity of this product has increased , and the choice of its
different shades , textures and luster has become very demanding.
HISTORY
Early history
Ancient Sumerian men and women were possibly the first to invent and
wear lipstick, about 5,000 years ago.[1] They crushed gemstones and used
them to decorate their faces, mainly on the lips and around the eyes.
Egyptians like Cleopatra crushed bugs to create a color of red on their
lips.[2] Women in the ancient Indus Valley Civilization may have used
rectangular pieces of ochre with beveled ends as lipstick.[3] Ancient
Egyptians wore lipstick to show social status rather than gender.[4] They
extracted the red dye from fucus-algin, 0.01% iodine, and
some bromine mannite, but this dye resulted in serious illness. Lipsticks
with shimmering effects were initially made using a pearlescent substance
found in fish scales.[5]
Women in the Minoan civilization colored their lips with bright red
cosmetics. Lip paint in ancient Greece was initially restricted to prostitutes
and courtesans, but expanded to the upper class between 700 and 300 BCE.
Greek women colored their lips with cosmetics made from dyes
containing Tyrian purple, crushed mulberries, and the toxic
pigment vermilion.[6]
The Chinese made some of the first lipsticks that were made
from beeswax over 1,000 years ago to protect the delicate skin of the lips.
During the Tang Dynasty (618-907 CE), scented oils were added to them,
which gave the mouth an enticing factor.
In Australia, Aboriginal girls would paint their mouths red with ochre for
puberty rituals.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Selection of herbs : The various herbs used in the formulation of herbal
lipsticks were selected on the basis of literature survey
( Ellision 1999 & Kokate et al 2007)
Collection of materials : The different herbs used in the development of
herbal lipstick were collected in the months April-
June 2019 from local market of North India.
Preparation of Colour Pigment : Coloring agent is obtained from fruits of
Fragaria x Ananassa by pressing
,filteration and evaporation of the
resultant juice.
Formulation of herbal lipstick : The herbal lipstick was formulated as per
general method of lipstick formulation . In
brief ; all hard & soft waxes were melted
in porcelein dish on water bath with
decreasing order of their melting point .
Concentrated Fragaria x ananassa juice
mixed with Coconut oil and heated. Both
phases are mixed at same temperature .
Strawberry essence, lemon juice, ginger
powder,shikakai powder,,vanilla essence,
and vitamin E were added at 40 C. Then
mixture was poured into lipstick mould in
excess amount and mould was kept on ice
bath. After solidification surplus amount
was scrapped with blade. Lipsticks were
removed from mould and flamed. Prepared
lipsticks were fitted in lipstick container
and used for further evaluation.
Table 1; Ingredients with their prescribed quantity in the
Formulation of herbal lipstick

S.NO INGREDIENTS IMPORTANCE QUANTITY(gm)

1 Coconut oil Blending properties 15

2 Paraffin wax Glossy & hardness 30

3 Beeswax Glossy & hardness 35

4 Ripe fruit of Surfactant 13


shikakai

5 Fragaria x Coloring agent 3


Ananassa juice

6 Ginger Powder Anti microbial 2

7 Strawberry Flavouring agent 1


Essence

8 Lemon juice Anti oxidant 0.5

9 Vanilla Essence Perservative q.s


1) Coconut oil :

Coconut oil, or copra oil, is an edible oil extracted from the kernel or meat
of mature coconuts harvested from the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera). It
has various applications. Because of its high saturated fat content, it is slow
to oxidize and, thus, resistant to rancidification, lasting up to six months at
24 °C (75 °F) without spoiling.

Kingdom Plantae
Subkingdom Tracheobionta
Superdivision Spermatophyta
Division Magnoliophyta
Class Liliopsida
Subclass Arecidae
Order Arecales
Family Arecaceae
Genus Cocos L.
Species Cocos nucifera L.
2) Paraffin wax :

Paraffin wax is a soft colourless solid, derived


from petroleum, coal or shale oil, that consists of a mixture
of hydrocarbon molecules containing between twenty and forty carbon
atoms. It is solid at room temperature and begins to melt above
approximately 37 °C (99 °F);[2] its boiling point is >370 °C
(698 °F).[3] Common applications for paraffin wax
include lubrication, electrical insulation, and candles; [4] dyed paraffin wax
can be made into crayons. It is distinct from kerosene and other petroleum
products that are sometimes called paraffin.[5]
Un-dyed, unscented paraffin candles are odorless and bluish-white.
Paraffin wax was first created in 1830 in Germany[citation needed], and marked
a major advancement in candlemaking technology, as it burned more
cleanly and reliably than tallow candles and was cheaper to produce.[6]
In chemistry, paraffin is used synonymously with alkane, indicating
hydrocarbons with the general formula CnH2n+2. The name is derived
from Latin parum("barely") + affinis, meaning "lacking affinity" or
"lacking reactivity", referring to paraffin's unreactive nature.
Properties

Chemical formula CnH2n+2

Appearance White solid

Odour Odourless

Density ~0.90 g/cm

Melting point 37 °C (99 °F; 310 K)

Boiling point > 370 °C (698 °F)

Solubility in water

3) Beeswax :

Beeswax (cera alba) is a natural wax produced by honey bees of the


genus Apis. The wax is formed into scales by eight wax-producing glands in
the abdominal segments of worker bees, which discard it in or at the hive.
The hive workers collect and use it to form cells for honey storage and
larval and pupal protection within the beehive. Chemically, beeswax
consists mainly of esters of fatty acids and various long-chain alcohols.
Beeswax has been used since prehistory as the first plastic, as a lubricant
and waterproofing agent, in lost wax casting of metals and glass, as
a polish for wood and leather and for making candles, as an ingredient in
cosmetics and as an artistic medium in encaustic painting.

Kingdom: Animalia

Phylum: Arthropoda

Class: Insecta

Order: Hymenoptera

Family: Apidae

Tribe: Apini

Genus: Apis

4) Ripe fruit of shikakai :

Acacia concinna is a climbing shrub native to Asia, common in the warm


plains of central and south India. The tree is food for the larvae of
the butterfly Pantoporia hordonia.[3] Alkaloids are found in the tree's
fruit.[4] The species is invasive in New Caledonia. Acacia concinna has
been used traditionally for hair care in the Indian Subcontinent since
ancient times. It is one of the Ayurvedic medicinal plants. It is traditionally
used as a shampoo [6] and it is also added in synthetic Ayurvedic shampoos.
It is widely known as Shikakai. In order to prepare it the fruit pods, leaves
and bark of the plant are dried, ground into a powder, then made into a
paste. While this traditional shampoo does not produce the normal amount
of lather that a sulfate-containing shampoo would, it is considered a good
cleanser. It is mild, having a naturally low pH, and doesn't strip hair of
natural oils. An infusion of the leaves has been used in anti-dandruff
preparations.
A,concinna extracts are used in natural shampoos or hair powders and the
tree is now grown commercially in India and Far East Asia.[8] The plant
parts used for the dry powder or the extract are the bark, leaves or pods.
The bark contains high levels of saponins, which are foaming agents found
in several other plant species used as shampoos or soaps. Saponin-
containing plants have a long history of use as mild cleaning agents.
Saponins from the plant's pods have been traditionally used as a detergent,
and in Bengal for poisoning fish; they are documented to be potent marine
toxins. An infusion of the leaves of A. concinna has also been used for
therapy of jaundice in the traditional Indian medicine .

Kingdom: Plantae

Clade: Angiosperms

Clade: Eudicots

Clade: Rosids

Order: Fabales

Family: Fabaceae

Clade: Mimosoideae

Genus: Acacia

Species: A. concinna
5) Fragaria x Ananassa :

The garden strawberry (or simply strawberry; Fragaria × ananassa) is a


widely grown hybrid species of the genus Fragaria, collectively known as
the strawberries. It is cultivated worldwide for its fruit. The fruit is widely
appreciated for its characteristic aroma, bright red color, juicy texture,
and sweetness. It is consumed in large quantities, either fresh or in such
prepared foods as preserves, juice, pies, ice creams, milkshakes,
and chocolates. Artificial strawberry flavorings and aromas are also widely
used in many products like lip gloss, candy, hand sanitizers, perfume, and
many others.
The garden strawberry was first bred in Brittany, France, in the 1750s via
a cross of Fragaria virginiana from eastern North America and Fragaria
chiloensis, which was brought from Chile by Amédée-François Frézier in
1714. Cultivars of Fragaria × ananassa have replaced, in commercial
production, the woodland strawberry (Fragaria vesca), which was the first
strawberry species cultivated in the early 17th century.
The strawberry is not, from a botanical point of view, a berry. Technically,
it is an aggregate accessory fruit, meaning that the fleshy part is derived
not from the plant's ovaries but from the receptacle that holds
the ovaries. Each apparent "seed" (achene) on the outside of the fruit is
actually one of the ovaries of the flower, with a seed inside it.
The very first garden strawberry was grown in Brittany, France,
during the late 18th century. Prior to this, wild strawberries and cultivated
selections from wild strawberry species were the common source of the
fruit.
The strawberry fruit was mentioned in ancient Roman literature in
reference to its medicinal use. The French began taking the strawberry
from the forest to their gardens for harvest in the 14th century. Charles V,
France's king from 1364 to 1380, had 1,200 strawberry plants in his royal
garden. In the early 15th century western European monks were using the
wild strawberry in their illuminated manuscripts. The strawberry is found
in Italian, Flemish, and German art, and in English miniatures. The entire
strawberry plant was used to treat depressive illnesses.
By the 16th century, references of cultivation of the strawberry became
more common. People began using it for its supposed medicinal properties
and botanists began naming the different species. In England the demand
for regular strawberry farming had increased by the mid-16th century.
The combination of strawberries and cream was created by Thomas
Wolsey in the court of King Henry VIII. Instructions for growing and
harvesting strawberries showed up in writing in 1578. By the end of the
16th century three European species had been cited: F. vesca, F. moschata,
and F. viridis. The garden strawberry was transplanted from the forests
and then the plants would be propagated asexually by cutting off the
runners.
Two subspecies of F. vesca were identified: F. sylvestris alba and F.
sylvestris semperflorens. The introduction of F. virginiana from Eastern
North America to Europe in the 17th century is an important part of
history because this species gave rise to the modern strawberry. The new
species gradually spread through the continent and did not become
completely appreciated until the end of the 18th century. When a French
excursion journeyed to Chile in 1712, it introduced the North American
strawberry plant with female flowers that resulted in the common
strawberry that we have today.
The Mapuche and Huilliche Indians of Chile cultivated the female
strawberry species until 1551, when the Spanish came to conquer the land.
In 1765, a European explorer recorded the cultivation of F. chiloensis, the
Chilean strawberry. At first introduction to Europe, the plants grew
vigorously but produced no fruit. It was discovered in 1766 that the female
plants could only be pollinated by plants that produced large fruit: F.
moschata, F. virginiana, and F. ananassa. This is when the Europeans
became aware that plants had the ability to produce male-only or female-
only flowers. As more large-fruit producing plants were cultivated the
Chilean strawberry slowly decreased in population in Europe, except for
around Brest where the Chilean strawberry thrived. The decline of the
Chilean strawberry was caused by F. ananassa.
Kingdom: Plantae

Clade: Angiosperms

Clade: Eudicots

Clade: Rosids

Order: Rosales

Family: Rosaceae

Genus: Fragaria

Species: F. × ananassa

6) Ginger powder :

Dry ginger powder is the grounded form of dried ginger roots. It is


essentially used as a seasoning agent. However, the powdered form doesn't
carry the strong pungent flavor from the roots. Hence, it is used for giving
a mild taste to the dishes.
It is commonly used as a seasoning agent while preparing ginger
breads, cakes, cookies and ginger beer. Powdered ginger should be stored
in a cool place in an airtight container.

Kingdom: Plantae

Clade: Angiosperms

Clade: Monocots

Clade: Commelinids

Order: Zingiberales

Family: Zingiberaceae

Genus: Zingiber

Species: Z. officinale

7) Strawberry Essence :

Ethyl methylphenylglycidate, commonly known as "strawberry aldehyde",


is an organic compound used in the flavor industry in artificial fruit
flavors, in particular strawberry. Ethyl methylphenylglycidate is classified
as an ester and an epoxide; but, despite its common name, it is not
an aldehyde. It is a colourless to pale-yellow liquid that is insoluble in
water.
Ethyl methylphenylglycidate is usually prepared by
the condensation of acetophenone and the ethyl ester of monochloroacetic
acid in the presence of a base, in a reaction known as the Darzens
condensation. Because of its pleasant taste and aroma, ethyl
methylphenylglycidate finds use in the fragrance industry, in artificial
flavors, and in cosmetics.[1] Its end applications include perfumes,
soaps, beauty care products, detergents, pharmaceuticals, baked
goods, candies, ice cream, and others.

8) Lemon juice :

The lemon, Citrus limon (L.) Osbeck, is a species of small evergreen tree in
the flowering plant family Rutaceae, native to South Asia, primarily North
eastern India.
The tree's ellipsoidal yellow fruit is used for culinary and non-culinary
purposes throughout the world, primarily for its juice, which has both
culinary and cleaning uses.[2]The pulp and rind (zest) are also used in
cooking and baking. The juice of the lemon is about 5% to 6% citric acid,
with a pH of around 2.2, giving it a sour taste. The distinctive sour taste of
lemon juice makes it a key ingredient in drinks and foods such
as lemonade and lemon meringue pie.
The origin of the lemon is unknown, though lemons are thought to
have first grown in Assam (a region in northeast India),
northern Burma or China. A genomic study of the lemon indicated it was a
hybrid between bitter orange (sour orange) and citron. Lemons
entered Europe near southern Italy no later than the second century AD,
during the time of Ancient Rome. However, they were not widely
cultivated. They were later introduced to Persia and then
to Iraq and Egypt around 700 AD.[2] The lemon was first recorded in
literature in a 10th-century Arabic treatise on farming, and was also used
as an ornamental plant in early Islamic gardens. It was distributed widely
throughout the Arab world and the Mediterranean region between 1000
and 1150.[2]
The first substantial cultivation of lemons in Europe began in Genoa in the
middle of the 15th century. The lemon was later introduced to
the Americas in 1493 when Christopher Columbus brought lemon seeds
to Hispaniola on his voyages. Spanish conquest throughout the New World
helped spread lemon seeds. It was mainly used as an ornamental plant and
for medicine. In the 19th century, lemons were increasingly planted
in Florida and California.
In 1747, James Lind's experiments on seamen suffering
from scurvy involved adding lemon juice to their diets, though vitamin
C was not yet known as an important dietary ingredient. The origin of the
word lemon may be Middle Eastern. The word draws from the Old
French limon, then Italian limone, from the Arabic laymūn or līmūn, and
from the Persian līmūn, a generic term for citrusfruit, which is a cognate of
Sanskrit (nimbū, “lime”).

Kingdom: Plantae

Clade: Angiosperms

Clade: Eudicots

Clade: Rosids

Order: Sapindales

Family: Rutaceae

Genus: Citrus

Species: C. limon
9) Vanilla Essence :

Vanilla is a flavoring derived from orchids of the genus Vanilla, primarily


from the Mexican species, flat-leaved vanilla (V. planifolia). The
word vanilla, derived from vainilla, the diminutive of the Spanish
word vaina (vaina itself meaning a sheath or a pod), is translated simply as
"little pod". Pre-Columbian Mesoamerican people cultivated the vine of
the vanilla orchid, called tlīlxochitl by the Aztecs.
Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés is credited with introducing both
vanilla and chocolate to Europe in the 1520s.
Pollination is required to set the vanilla fruit from which the flavoring is
derived. In 1837, Belgian botanist Charles François Antoine
Morren discovered this fact and pioneered a method of artificially
pollinating the plant. The method proved financially unworkable and was
not deployed commercially. In 1841, Edmond Albius, a slave who lived on
the French island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean, discovered at the age of
12 that the plant could be hand-pollinated. Hand-pollination allowed global
cultivation of the plant.
Three major species of vanilla currently are grown globally, all of which
derive from a species originally found in Mesoamerica, including parts of
modern-day Mexico. They are V. planifolia (syn. V. fragrans), grown
on Madagascar, Réunion, and other tropical areas along the Indian
Ocean; V. tahitensis, grown in the South Pacific; and V. pompona, found in
the West Indies, Central America, and South America. The majority of the
world's vanilla is the V. planifolia species, more commonly known
as Bourbon vanilla (after the former name of Réunion, Île Bourbon)
or Madagascar vanilla, which is produced in Madagascar and neighboring
islands in the southwestern Indian Ocean, and in Indonesia. Combined,
Madagascar and Indonesia produce two-thirds of the world's supply of
vanilla.
Vanilla is the second-most expensive spice after saffron because growing
the vanilla seed pods is labor-intensive. Despite the expense, vanilla is
highly valued for its flavor. As a result, vanilla is widely used in both
commercial and domestic baking, perfume manufacture,
and aromatherapy.

Kingdom: Plantae

Clade: Angiosperms

Clade: Monocots

Order: Asparagales

Family: Orchidaceae

Subfamily: Vanilloideae

Tribe: Vanilleae

Genus: Vanilla
CHARACTERISTICS OF HERBAL LIPSTICK

It is very essential to maintain a uniform standard for herbal lipstick


keeping this view in mind the formulated herbal lipsticks was evaluated on
the parameters such as melting point, breaking point, force of application,
surface anomalies etc.

Melting point : Determination of melting point is important as it is an


indication form of the limit of safe storage . The melting
point of formulated lipstick was determined by capillary
tube method .
Breaking point : Breaking point is done to determine the strength of
lipstick . The lipstick is held horizontally in a socket 1/2
inch away from the edge of support . The weight is
gradually increased by a specific value (10gm) at specific
interval of 30 second and weight at which breaks is
considered as the breaking point.
Force of application : It is test for comparative measurement of the force to
be applied for application . A piece of coarse brown
paper can be kept on a shadow graph balance and
lipstick can be applied at 45 angle to cover a 1sq .
inch area until fully covered . The pressure reading is
an indication of force of application.

Surface of anomalies : This is studied by the surface defects , such as no


formation of crystals on surfaces , no contamination
by moulds , fungi etc.
Aging stability : The product was stored in 40 C and various parameters
such as bleeding , crystallization of wax on surface and
ease of application were observed .

pH parameter : The pH of formulated herbal lipstick was determined us


pH meter.

Skin irritation test : It is carried out by applying product on the skin for 10
mins .
Table 2: Characterization of formulated lipstick containing herbal

ingredients

S.NO EVALUATION PARAMETERS INTERFERENCE

1 Colour Pink

2 Melting point 60 – 62 C

3 Breaking point 34

4 Force of application Good

5 Surface anomalies No defect

6 Aging stability Smooth

7 pH 6.5 _ 0.2

8 Skin irritation test No


ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL LIPSTICKS OVER USING
SYNTHETIC ONES
• Herbal colours are non-toxic, highly lipophilic, antioxidant and anti-
microbial anti-inflammatory and are used in leucoderma more particularly
of lips.

• Colorant has different original shades of colours from purplish red, ruby
red, beetroot purple, dark violet, pastel red, pale red, purplish red, rose red,
deep majenta, dark purple, orange, deep violet.

• From these colours, by different combinations, further shades can be


obtained.

• Colour may be changed to different shades with organic and inorganic


acids and bases.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The formulation and evaluation of herbal lipsticks was aimed to
formulate a lipstick using herbal ingredients . According to literature
survey of previous investigation of these herbal plant it may be minimize
the side effects as produced by the available synthetic ones. Different
natural ingredients were used for formulating natural lipsticks that contain
colouring agent which is a natural colourant obtained from Fragaria x
Ananassa and the effect of different natural ingredients on different
evaluation parameters in the formulation have been investigated
CONCLUSION
Now a days when cosmetics offers artificial and chemical ingredients at
sky rocking prizes as well as several adverse effects , herbal cosmetics carry
goodness of natural alternatives with its herbal products . These eco -
friendly , herbal lipstick is made from natural plant extracts that promises
to rejuvenate and revitalize skin with new freshness. The present
investigation was done to formulate lipstick containing herbal ingredients.
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