LEATHER APPROVAL PROCEDURE

 Leather used for Salesman sample needs to be sealed as a Master

skin once the salesman sample gets approved.

 Two A4 swatches and one postcard swatches will be signed by

WWW Technical Manager. (One for the leather dept., one for
Factory quality in-charge and Post card swatch will be
maintained by WWW).

 Leathers for confirmation samples needs to be copied from the

master skin.

 Every batch of leather needs to be approved by WWW Technical

Manager before cutting. Once approved, again a post card swatch
to be given to WWW Technical manager with details of total sq.ft.
of leathers received, Used for which PO No., with quantity and
date in a form of sticker on the flesh side.

MATERIAL APPROVAL PROCEDURE

 Once styles got adopted/selected, then all the materials used in the
shoe needs to be approved and maintained in the stores in the
form of Swatch card with material description, supplier name and
other technical details if any.

 Every batch of material needs to be inspected by Incoming goods

QC in the factory. Any variation or deviation in the incoming
goods needs to be authorized by WWW Technical Manager.

 Any change or alternate materials needs to be approved by

WWW Technical Manager.
 SEQUENCE FROM PROTOTYPE TO PRODUCTION

 Initial prototype will be developed based on the design drawing

(or) Marker shoe with specification given by the designers.

 Once, prototype approved for all the style lines and proportions,
then we will go to the next stage, i.e., salesman samples.

 After Salesman samples, styles chosen will be adopted and that

information will be given to suppliers.

 For adopted styles we have to do T1 samples in sample size (Men:

size 8 and Ladies: size 5). Purpose of this sample is for Fit
approval of the sample size.

 After T1 approval, Sole moulds will be approved to go ahead for

the size set series.

 All the selected styles should have style assessment to analyze the
production feasibility, methods of doing, listing the potential risk
factors in wear and tear, etc.,

 Size set soles will be checked against the cavity patterns.

 Next stage is T4 samples. Purpose of this sample is to fit approve

extreme sizes on die cut patterns. ( Men: sizes 7,8,9,10 and
Ladies : sizes 4,5,6,7)

 Along with T4 samples, physical test report of leather and shoes

(inclusive of sole test report) has to be sent to Wolverine.

 After T4 approval, confirmation samples needs to be sent and get

it back with confirmation tag on it.

 Before we start the bulk cutting, all the test certificates for leather,
lining, other materials, etc., should be obtained from CLRI (or)
FDDI (or) TUV SUD (or) SGS as listed in the physical testing
section.

 Before we start closing in the upper units, all the show board,
working examples, signed upper from Product development team
should be available.
 Before we start full shoe production, we need to do the sole bond
test, heel pull load test, toplift pull load test and topline strength
(for pump shoes) etc., depending on the styles.

 Bulk trials (depends on the factory).

 Production starts.

IN HOUSE TESTING

 Shore A hardness test of every batch of soles needs to be tested

against the required hardness and needs to maintain a register
with data.
 Sole toe and side pull load test to be done daily and needs to
maintain a register with data.
 Carbon copy test in sole attaching machines. Examples need to be
maintained for atleast two weeks next to the machine. Previous
can be filed and maintained.
 Additional tests can be decided depending on the style and
construction.

PROCESS CONTROL

 Chart with readings of Temperature, Pressure and Dwell time

needs to be maintained in Counter Moulding Machine.
 Chart with readings of Temperature and dwell time to be
maintained for the toe puff activating machine.
 Chart with readings of temperature, pincher pressures, dwell time
, etc., to be maintained for Toe pull lasting machine.
 Chart with readings of pressure and dwell time for seat and side
lasting machine.
 Chart with readings of temperature and dwell time for heat setter
machine.
 Chart with readings of temperature and dwell time for sole and
lasted pull over activation machine.
 Chart with readings of pressure and dwell time for sole attaching
machine.
  Chart with readings of temperature and dwell time for chiller.

All the above chart should have signature of Maintanence in charge

and Factory Quality Manager.

QUALITY MEETING

Quality meeting to be conducted by Factory Quality Manager once in a

week and should be documented with corrective action plan, results,
person responsible and target date. WWW Technical Manager will join
this meeting whenever it is possible.

Quality log book register to be available in the factory to fill in the

quality problems seen by WWW Technical Manager in the line. This
should be duly signed by both WWW Technical Manager and Factory
Quality Manager.

Register also to be maintained by Stage QC with details of style, quality

issues, no.of pairs.
 AQL PROCEDURE

 First time AQL failed : Factory QC needs to inspect 100% and

Quality incharge needs to do random audit before offering to us.
We will check by doubling the AQL quantity in the manual

 Second time AQL failed : Factory Quality incharge needs to do

100% inspection and Quality Manager to do random audit before
offering to us. We will check by doubling the AQL quantity in the
manual.

 Third time AQL failed : Factory Quality Manager along with us

will do 100% inspection before shipment.

PHYSICAL & CHEMICAL TESTING

a) Chemical Testing

Factory should give declaration that no banned chemicals are used in

their product. (See Annex 1)

With growing awareness on Environment, health and safety across the

globe and implementation of Reach regulations and European standard
on use of restricted chemicals, we expect our partners to take the lead to
ensure that the footwear exported comply to the norms advised by the
European chemical agency and the restricted substance list created by a
working group of AAFA’s environmental task force. Its purpose is
intended to provide the footwear companies with information on
regulations and laws that restrict or ban chemicals and substances in
finished footwear products.

Substance of concern used in leather processing.

Some chemicals of concern commonly used in leather industry
 PCP (Pentacholorphenol)
 Hexavalent Chromium
 Azo dyes (banned in Europe)
 Resorcinol Dyes
 Formaldehyde
Manufactures and exports should check the presence of SVHC (Substance of Very
High Concern) substances in the materials obtained from their suppliers

List of SVHC released by the European Chemicals Agency and the RSL
--restriction/ limit triggering reporting in component – (over 0.1%) in the following
list
1. 1) Anthracene –used as tanning agent
2. 4,4’ –Diaminodiphenylmethane – component of some azo dyes
3. Dibutyl phthalate – phthalate plasticizer; artificial leather
4. Cyclododecane
5. Cobalt dichloride
6. Diarsenic pentaoxide
7. Diarsenic trioxide
8. Sodium dichromate, dihydrate – raw material; tanning
9. 5-tert-butyl-2,4,6-trinitro-m-xylene (musk xylene)
10. Bis (2-ethyl(hexyl)phthalate) (DEHP) – plasticizers for soles
11. Hexa bromo cyclododecane (HBCDD)
12. Alkanes, C10 - 13, chloro (short chain chlorinated paraffins) – leather
additive for imparting smoothness
13. Bis (tributyltin)oxide
14. Lead hydrogen arsenate
15. Triethyl arsenate
16. Benzyl butyl phthalate – artificial leather

Restricted substance list

Chemical name Restriction/maximum comments

limit on final product or
tested component
Arylamines Not detected

Detection limits:
Textile 20ppm
Leather 30ppm
Allergenic Disperse dyes & Not detectable
Carcinogenic dyes
Chlorinated Phenols <5mg/kg limit
(PCP, TeCP, TriCP)
PAH (polycyclic aromatic Skin contact more than
hydrocarbon). US-EPA 30secs: <20ppm
defined 16PAH) out of this (benzo(a)pyrene <1ppm)
group of PAH Skin contact less than
benzo(a)pyrene is 30secs: <200ppm
considered highly (Benzo(a)pyrene <20ppm)
carcinogenic
Restrictions for Textiles
Chemical name Restriction/maximum comments
limit on final product or
tested component
Cadmium (Cd) 100ppm If cadmium is used as
coloring agent

Lead (Pb) 100ppm

Chromium 1ppm (leachable)
Mercury .02ppm (leachable)
Arsenic .2ppm (leachable)
copper 25ppm (leachable)

Restrictions for Leather

Chemical name Restriction/maximum comments
limit on final product or
tested component
Cadmium (Cd) 100ppm If cadmium is used as
coloring agent

Lead (Pb) 100ppm

Chromium (cr 6+)- Not detected (detection
hexavalent limit is 3ppm)

Restrictions for Metal Parts

Lead (Pb) 100ppm
Nickel (Ni) (in metal 0.5µg/cm2/week
items)

Restrictions for Plastics and Plastic film

Lead (Pb) 100ppm
Cadmium (Cd) 100ppm

Restrictions for surface coatings and printing

Lead (Pb) 90ppm
Cadmium (Cd) 100ppm
Organotin Compounds
Tributyltin (TBT) Not detected (0.05ppm
EACH)
Triphenyltin (TPhT) Not detected (0.05ppm
EACH)
Dioctyltin (DOT) 0.1%
Dibutyltin (DBT) 1ppm

Misc Chemicals
Dimethyl Fumarate Prohibited
Formaldehyde (leather) 20ppm
Baby products (0-
24months)
Leather (with direct skin 75ppm
contact)
Leather (without direct 300ppm
skin contact)
Perfluorooctane sulfonate 1µg/m2
(PFOS)
Blue colorant prohibited
Phthalates
Chemical Name Restriction/Maximum comments
limit on final product or
tested component
Phthalates 0.1%
(DINP, DNOP, DEHP,
DIDP, BBP, DBP)

Assess for any intentional release, if no, assess for presence of SVHC, if yes, estimate
the quantity of the substance and notify.
If it can be technically proved that SVHC not present, self certificate should suffice
Only when there is no surety fo the presence or absence of SVHC, testing should be
undertaken.
 b) Physical Testing

Factory should carry out physical testing with approved testing labs
(CLRI, FDDI, TUV SUD & SGS).
Tests to be carried out with frequency of Testing are listed below.

WOLVERINE WORLD WIDE INC.

Performance Guidelines

1.a. Textile and Synthetic Upper Materials.

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Tear strength (kgf) SATRA TM 30 Men’s 5
(tested with BS 3424 5.7C Ladies’ 4 B
reinforcements and Children’s 5
linings where used)
Flexing Endurance SATRA TM 25 Not worse than slight
BS 3424 9.11C cracking after number of
flexes
Textile and PUCF B
500,000
PVCCF
20°C 500,000
-5°C 50,000
Martindale Abrasion SATRA TM 31 Not worse than
resistance (9kPa) BS 5690 moderate wear after:
Textile 25,600 dry
6,400 wet B
Synthetic 1,600 dry
suede 800 wet
Coating adhesion SATRA TM 410 Dry 1.0 B
strength (kgf/cm) BS 3424 9.9B Wet 0.8
Perspiration fastness on SATRA TM 335 Not worse than grey
unlined foot side and BS 1006.E04 alkali scale 2/3 A
textile outside. only
Indoor slipper styles

Tear strength (kgf) SATRA TM 30

(tested with BS 3424 5.7C 2.5 B
reinforcements and
linings where used)
Martindale Abrasion SATRA TM 31 Not worse than
resistance (9kPa) BS 5690 moderate wear or
pilling after
12,800 dry B
3,200 wet

Children's Footwear.

Transfer coated PUCF's generally have limited resistance to scuffing and are not
recommended for children's everyday shoes, coagulated materials should be used.

Note: If specified performance standards are not met, refer to the Wolverine World
Wide Quality Manager. Decisions will be made based on product type and end use.
A = Every delivery/batch. B = One delivery in 10 or per season whichever comes
first. C = Once a year.
 WOLVERINE WORLD WIDE
Performance Guidelines

1.b. Upper Leather

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Tear strength (kgf) BS 3144:6 Men’s 10
(tested with Ladies’ 8 B
reinforcements and Children’s 10
linings where used)
Flexing endurance SATRA TM 25
BS 3424 9.11C B
Dry 500,000 flexes Not worse than slight
cracking A for patent
Wet 100,000 flexes Not worse than slight leathers
cracking and no salt
spue.
Rub fastness SATRA TM 8
BS 1006:90 UKLC A
Marring Dry 256 rubs Not worse than grey
Wet 128 rubs scale 3

Transfer Dry 128 rubs

Wet 64 rubs Not worse than grey
scale 3
Not worse than grey
scale 2/3
Perspiration fastness SATRA TM 335 Not worse than grey A
on unlined flesh side BS 1006.E04 alkali scale 2/3
only
Qualitative peel test for SATRA TM 148 It should not be possible
adhesion of finish film to peel the film cleanly A
from the leather.

Note: If specified performance standards are not met, refer to the Wolverine World
Wide Quality Manager. Decisions will be made based on product type and end use.
A = Every delivery/batch. B = One delivery in 10 or per season whichever comes
first. C = Once a year.
 WOLVERINE WORLD WIDE

Performance Guidelines

1.c. Linings and socks.

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Martindale Abrasion SATRA TM 31 Not worse than
Resistance (9kPa) BS 5690 moderate wear and B
pilling after
Socks and counter
linings
25,600 dry
6,400 wet
Vamp and quarter
linings
12,800 dry
3,200 wet
Perspiration fastness SATRA TM 335 Not worse than grey A
scale 2/3
Flexing Endurance of SATRA TM 25 Not worse than slight
Coated Fabric Vamp BS 3424 9.11C cracking B
and Quarter Linings Test with coated
face downwards
100,000 flexes

Note: If specified performance standards are not met, refer to the Wolverine World
Wide Quality Manager. Decisions will be made based on product type and end use.
A = Every delivery/batch. B = One delivery in 10 or per season whichever comes
first. C = Once a year.
 WOLVERINE WORLD WIDE
Performance Standards

2.a. PVC Soling Compounds

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Hardness (IRHD) BS 903 A26N Moulded on 56 -60 A
Unit soles max 75
(Note 1)
Flexing endurance SATRA TM 60 at Moulded on max 6mm
without pattern -5°C after C
(cut growth after BS 5131:2.1 150
no. of k/cs) Unit soles max 6mm
after
60 (Note 2)
Flexing endurance SATRA TM 133 No spontaneous
with pattern cracking at 50,000 C
Room temperature cycles
with 90mm mandrel

Note:

1) In order to achieve a satisfactory flexing performance on thick units the following

hardnesses are recommended:

Units up to 6mm thick including lightener bars - max 75 IRHD

Units up to 10mm thick - max 70 IRHD

Units over 10mm thick - max 65 IRHD

The thickness is measured from the sole bottom to the top of the lightener bars in
the central region of the sole.

2) For thin units (up to 4mm thick) it is permissible to use a slightly harder
compound up to 80 IRHD (77 Shore A) to help minimise edge distortion. The
flexing test is carried out on whole foreparts and a maximum cut growth of 30mm
after 20 k/cs should be satisfactory.

3) If specified performance standards are not met, refer to the Wolverine World
Wide Quality Manager. Decisions will be made based on product type and end use.
A = Every delivery/batch. B = One delivery in 10 or per season whichever comes
first. C = Once a year.
 WOLVERINE WORLD WIDE
Performance Guidelines

2.b. Resin Rubber Soling.

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Hardness (IRHD) BS 903 A26N Men’s 88 - 97
Ladies’ 94 - 97 B
Children’s 94 - 97
Platform 94 - 97
Elongation (%) min. BS 903 A2 Men’s 200
Ladies’ 200 C
Children’s 200
Platform 300
Ross flex (-5C at SATRA TM 60 Men’s 0.1
3.2mm) (mm cut BS 5131:2.1 Ladies’ 0.1 C
growth/kc) max Children’s 0.1
Platform 0.03
Thickness (mm) min Calibrated thickness Men’s 4.3
gauge. Ladies’ 2.7 A
Children’s 4.3
Abrasion resistance BS 903:A9 Method Men’s 350
(volume loss mm³) A1 Ladies’ 400 C
max Children’s 300

Note: If specified performance standards are not met, refer to the Wolverine World
Wide Quality Manager. Decisions will be made based on product type and end use.
A = Every delivery/batch. B = One delivery in 10 or per season whichever comes
first. C = Once a year.
 Wolverine world wide

Performance Standards

2.c. Single Density Cellular Polyurethane.

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Hardness (IRHD) BS 903 A26 50 - 80 A
Skin on (1)
Flexing endurance SATRA TM 133 No spontaneous
Room temperature cracking at 50,000 C
with 90mm mandrel cycles closed back styles
30,000 cycles open back
styles
Effective Thickness of Graduated eyepiece Men’s/boys 6
Patterned Sole (mm) Ladies’/ 5 C
min. Children’s
Abrasion resistance BS 903:A9 Method Polyester compounds
(volume loss mm³) A1 300 C
max Polyether compounds
500

Note:

(1) The hardness should be as specified with a tolerance of +/- 3 IRHD and would
normally fall within the ranges shown.

(2) If specified performance standards are not met, refer to the Wolverine World
Wide Quality Manager. Decisions will be made based on product type and end use.
A = Every delivery/batch. B = One delivery in 10 or per season whichever comes
first. C = Once a year.
 Wolverine World wide
Performance Standards

2.d. Microcellular EVA Soling.

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Density (g/cm³) SATRA TM 68 0.30 - 0.33 A

Hardness (IRHD) BS 903 A26 40 - 46 A

Split tear strength SATRA TM 65 2.0 A

(kg/cm) min BS 5131:2.6

Ross flex (-5C at SATRA TM 60 0.04 C

4.8mm) BS 5131:2.1
(mm cut growth/kc)
max
Effective thickness Graduated eyepiece Men’s/boys 8
(mm) Ladies’/ 6 A
Children’s
Specific Durability SATRA prediction Men’s/children’s 0.5 B
formula (1) Ladies 0.4

Note:

1) Prediction formula is:-

(0.11 x Tensile strength) + (0.74 x Density)- (0.01 x Hardness) + (0.1 x Split

tear) + 0.17.

(2) If specified performance standards are not met, refer to the Wolverine World
Wide Quality Manager. Decisions will be made based on product type and end use.
A = Every delivery/batch. B = One delivery in 10 or per season whichever comes
first. C = Once a year.
 Wolverine World Wide

Performance Standards

2.e. Thermoplastic Rubber.

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Hardness (IRHD) (1) BS 903 A26 Soft grade 50 - 70 A
Hard grade 71 - 95

Flexing endurance SATRA TM 133 No spontaneous

with pattern cracking at 50,000 C
Room temperature cycles
with 90mm mandrel
Abrasion resistance BS 903 : A9 Method Soft grade 350
vol loss mm³ A1 Hard grade 400 C

Note:

(1) The hardness must be as specified by the Range Manager and the Quality
Manager with a tolerance of +3 IRHD and will normally fall within the ranges
shown.

(2) If specified performance standards are not met, refer to the Wolverine World
Wide Quality Manager. Decisions will be made based on product type and end use.
A = Every delivery/batch. B = One delivery in 10 or per season whichever comes
first. C = Once a year.
 Wolverine World Wide

Performance Standards

2.f. Vulcanised Rubber.

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Hardness (IRHD) (1) BS 903 A26 60 - 80 A

Flexing endurance SATRA TM 133 No spontaneous

with pattern cracking at 50,000 C
Room temperature cycles
with 90mm mandrel
Abrasion resistance BS 903 : A9 Method 350
vol loss mm³ A1 C

Note:

1) The hardness must be as specified by the buyer and Quality Manager with a
tolerance of +3 IRHD and will normally fall within the ranges shown.

(2) If specified performance standards are not met, refer to the Wolverine World
Wide Quality Manager. Decisions will be made based on product type and end use.
A = Every delivery/batch. B = One delivery in 10 or per season whichever comes
first. C = Once a year.
 Wolverine World Wide
Performance Standards

4.a. Insole Materials

i) Forepart boards.

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Flexing Index BS 5131:4.2 Vegetable tanned 3.9
SATRA TM3 Full chrome 3.3 C
Cellulose 3.2
Non-woven 3.0
Scuff Resistance - Wet SATRA TM 14 750 C
(1)
(mm³/1024 rubs) max.

ii) Seatboards.

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Heel Pin Holding BS 5131:4.4 Heel heights Heel
Strength (kgf) SATRA TM 11 heights above 50mm C
50mm and
Dry below
Wet 88 68
78 59

Notes:

(1) Not applicable to non-woven insoles and those styles having full length insocks.

(2) If specified performance standards are not met, refer to the Wolverine World
Wide Quality Manager. Decisions will be made based on product type and end use.
A = Every delivery/batch. B = One delivery in 10 or per season whichever comes
first. C = Once a year.
 Wolverine World Wide
Performance Standards

4.b. Sewing Threads.

Recommendations are given in Section II.1. for the thread to be used in different
sewing applications.

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Breaking load (kgf) SATRA TM74
BS 1932 part1 Ticket load B
number
Blended or 10
corespun M8 8
M12 6
M20 5
M25 3
M36 2
M50
18
Bonded Nylon M10 11
M13 8
M20 6
M30 4
M40 2.5
M60
 Wolverine World Wide
Performance Standards

4.c. Elastics.

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Limit of useful SATRA TM 102 85
extension B
(%)

Resistance to repeated SATRA TM 103 No more than 10%

extension at limit of rubber thread breakage B
useful after 10,000 cycles.
extension

Strength at right SATRA TM 33 3.5

angles to BS 5131:3.1 B
stitch perforations
(kg/cm)

Light fastness BS 1006 (BO2) 4 or better

(blue wool standard) B

Note:

If specified performance standards are not met, refer to the Wolverine World Wide
Quality Manager. Decisions will be made based on product type and end use.
A = Every delivery/batch. B = One delivery in 10 or per season whichever comes
first. C = Once a year.
 Wolverine World Wide
Performance Standards

4.d. Laces.

Property Test method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Breaking load SATRA TM 94 20 B
(kgf) - Dry BS 5131:3.7
Abrasion Resistance SATRA TM 154 5000 B
(cycles)

Note:

If specified performance standards are not met, refer to the Wolverine World Wide
Quality Manager. Decisions will be made based on product type and end use.
A = Every delivery/batch. B = One delivery in 10 or per season whichever comes
first. C = Once a year.
 Wolverine World Wide

Performance Standards

7. Whole Shoes or Parts of Whole Shoes.

Property Test Method Requirements Frequency of

testing
Sole Adhesion BS 5131:5.4 Men's & child’s leather
upper - 4 kgf/cm Daily
Ladies leather upper &
all shoes with micro,
EVA and resin rubber
soles - 3 kgf/cm
Men's and child’s
synthetic
upper - 2.5 kgf/cm
Ladies synth. upper - 2
kgf/cm
Toe load strength (kgf) BS5131:5.1 Leather
Synthetic Daily
Men’s 25
20
Ladies 20
15
Child’s 25
20
Heel Pull-off SATRA TM 113 50 kgf weekly
BS 5131:5.10
Topline Strength SATRA TM 143 50 kgf per order
Court shoes only
Tear strength of BS 3144:6 Men’s 10 kgf per order
leather upper (tested Ladies 8 kgf
with lining and Children’s 10 kgf
reinforcement where
used)
Tear strength of SATRA TM 30 Men’s 5 kgf per order
synthetic upper (tested Ladies 4 kgf
with lining and Children’s 5 kgf
reinforcement where
used)
Strength of straps and BS 5131:5.11 Infants 15 kgf per order
buckle attachment Ladies 20 kgf
Men's and
Children's 25 kgf
Bow Attachment SATRA TM 117 Large 4 kgf per order
Small 3 kgf
Strength of stress BS 5131:5.13 10 kgf/cm per order
bearing seams
Breaking strength of BS 5131:3.7 20 kgf per order
laces SATRA TM 94
Strength of ski-hooks SATRA TM 149 22 kgf per order
and eyelets
Toe puff peel strength SATRA TM 421/1 1.0 kgf/cm per order
(unlined only)
Toppiece attachment SATRA TM 108 14kgf per order
strength
Touch and close Visual Hook type only
fastenings Hooks on strap
Contact area 10 sq.cms.

Note:
Per order = tests carried out on bulk production at the start of the first order.