The Ones That Got Away: Forgotten Classics | 29

MHR (Left) Your author ended

up missing MHR’s initial
run of the Sparviero
and purchased this
near-identical model
with date beneath a
‘cyclops’ window at the
3 o’clock position, and
with the same pink dial.
(Right) A watch for the
early-nineties, pre-VW-
owned incarnation of
Bugatti was made by
MHR. This gold model
was up for sale at
Christie’s in December,
but failed to sell.

The first of QP’s new historical

series reflects on the unappreciated
legacy of ‘Mahara’
Ken Kessler

One day, a book will be written about the brave brands that kept Think about it: fully six years before Panerai was relaunched in
the faith during the years between the arrival of quartz and the Florence, Pibouleau’s brand, MHR (also called ‘Mahara’) offered
revival of mechanical watches. If you weren’t a watch enthusiast watches with dials based on those found in pre-World War II
15 or 20 years ago, you would be unaware of the gloom that aircraft. The now-obligatory, over-sized 3-6-9-12 numerals seen
beset the industry in the wake of quartz – especially given the on just about every brand’s mock-military model since Panerai
industry’s current hyperactivity. Equally, you would be unaware reappeared was first revived on the long-forgotten MHR watches.
of the courage shown by watchmakers who became company Because MHR was new and not the reincarnation of some forgotten
founders during this period, making mechanical timepieces in the marque, it never purported to be what it was not. This made MHR
face of a battery-driven onslaught. People such as Gerd-R Lang, far more honest in every way than some of the names that have
who launched Chronoswiss, or Dr Luigi Macaluso, who revived been resuscitated as if the intervening 200 years never happened.
Girard-Perregaux, deserve our thanks. Among them should be
included an elegant Genevoise antique jewellery expert named Instant hit
Dominique-Marie Pibouleau. If any lack of ‘prehistory’ might suggest that the brand was
designed for fashion rather than any concern for horology, think
The MHR (AKA ‘Mahara’)
Sparviero S.79. Common In 1987, Pibouleau decided to add a line of watches to her again. With the exception of one or two men’s and ladies’ models
to all MHR watches were already-successful jewellery business. Her partner was Franco fitted with quartz, all of the watches used ETA or Piguet
anti-reflective mineral glass,
and a screw-down crown Giolla, a highly-regarded jewellery designer. The two of them automatic mechanical movements. What made the MHRs stand
providing water resistance created a range of affordable watches that pre-dated nearly out from the other affordable mechanical watches of the day
to 30 metres. The watches
were available with every other brand’s expression of the qualities that dominate the were the cases: solid, robust, and looking and feeling like they
stainless-steel bracelets watch market to this day: tasteful, intelligent exploitation of would withstand any punishment you could inflict.
or straps in leather, denim
or linen, with either ‘retro’ touches, larger-than-average cases, huge numerals and the
deployment buckles
use of atypical colours (for dials and straps) to add elements of They were an instant hit, with the company selling 5,000 watches
or folding clasps.
both glamour and fun. in the first year. Of course, the Japanese and the Italians took to

© QP Magazine 2007
 30 | Forgotten Classics

The Sparviero was joined by the Bleu Leman (navy-blue dial and blue denim strap) (left); Black Storm (right), Red Devil (red dial and strap), Papier Mais,
Sparviero Rose, Green Pepper (dark green dial with yellow numerals), and other variants including ‘reversed out’ Sparvieros with grey dial and pink numerals.

them first, and it was not long before MHR realised that, by Kunz and the absurdly named European Company Watch, but
virtue of keen pricing, its customers kept coming back for more. nothing was heard again from MHR. Shortly after, the website
Enter the next clever innovation: fun with colours. closed. I knew it was all over when the canniest watch retailer
I know told me that he had hidden away a tray full of MHRs as
The defining model was an hours–minutes–seconds classic a future investment. For all of the pieces sold, MHR has
called the Sparviero S.79. Fitted with an ETA 2824-2 calibre, practically vanished. Not even eBay produces more than the
the Sparviero boasted a salmon-pink dial and black numerals, occasional MHR for sale, so it looks like the collectors are hanging
and a leather strap with suede lining. An Irish linen strap was on to them for now.
also supplied for warm weather usage. The hour hand featured
the same ‘Mercedes’ motif as seen on certain Rolexes, while the Alas, it is probably too late to revive the brand, especially if
sweep-seconds hand bore a large disc to add to the legibility. 3-6-9-12 is truly MHR’s primary calling card. Why? Because
With an overall diameter of 39.3 mm, it was considered large for 3-6-9-12s are everywhere. Panerai has re-established itself as
its era. And with a SFr.1,530 price tag (call it circa £650), it was one of the most coveted makes on the market and Bell & Ross
a giveaway. MHR’s coolness even extended to the packaging: has done an amazing job providing the market with an entire
cardboard boxes that looked like miniature filing cabinets. selection of 3-6-9-12s, albeit at the next price point above
MHR’s original market placement. As for colours, Chronoswiss
Vanishing act recently launched its ultra-functional Timemaster in fetching
On 6th November 2000, Swiss Watch News published the shades of yellow, blue, green and other hues, while Franck Muller
announcement of a “Double Acquisition for Franck Muller,” and has always had a salmon dial or two in its range. And you can’t
how the company had “plans to develop its brand portfolio.” escape orange dials this year. Or coloured linen straps.
The group acquired, at the end of August, the assets “of the
Genevan manufacturer Mahara Montres (MHR),” including the So, the next time anyone tells you there’s anything new
retail outlet in Geneva. “These ‘middle range’ watches will under the sun, please spare a thought for MHR – the brand
benefit from new design.” that pioneered today’s cool details nearly two decades ago.
But remember, too, the well-known aphorism about pioneers:
Or so the brands’ fans had hoped. From that point on, there was they are also the ones who got shot in the backside with the
silence. Muller did, indeed, develop new brands, including Pierre Indians’ arrows. 

© QP Magazine 2007