CHAPTER - III

STATUS OF HANDLOOM INDUSTRY

This chapter covers the evolution of the handloom industry, salient

features of the handloom industry. This chapter has also examined the
importance of handloom industry in economic development and problems of
handloom industry. The governmental measures to promote handloom industry
are discussed.

The significance of the handloom sector in India lies in the fact that it is a

major employer next only to agriculture. The dependence of 16 million weavers

on this sector in the country is a clear evidence of its importance in terms of

livelihood. The contribution of this sector to total cloth production in the

country has been around 22 percent.

The State of Andhra Pradesh, following Tamil Nadu, has the second largest
concentration of handlooms in the country. There are estimated to be around
1,71,660 handloom weaving families and 2,13,404 working handlooms in the
State. Handloom industry in the State is characterized by variation and
differentiation reflecting the social and cultural diversity and complexity in the
State. This can be seen in the use of yarn type and count, and type of loom, the
product specificity and the specific markets for which they are produced, etc.
While the cotton weaving is the dominant practice, we also find silk and wool
weaving in certain centres. The product range is amazingly varied in terms of
design and colour, quality and quantity, demand and price, brand name and
clientele. The variation could be captured from the fact that while at the lower
end coarse lungis, dhotis and sarees in low counts are produced by a majority of

56
weavers in a large number of handloom centers, at the higher end could be seen
expensive handloom center- specific silk and cotton brands with their unique
designs and exclusive clientele; in between we have a wide range of moderately
priced cotton and silk varieties that cater to the middle class clientele. The
proportion of export varieties in this is not insignificant1.

H I S T O R Y OF H A N D L O O M

Handloom has been around since the first men and women threw lines
yarns over a tree branch and started braiding. Fabrics and spinning tools have
been found among the earliest relics of human habitation. India is one place
where handloom has been a continuous art form. While exact dates are hard to
pinpoint, there has been evidence of cotton weaving in India since 3000 B.C.
Silk weaving started in China around 1000 B.C. and spread across the Indian
subcontinent.

The first color - Indigo - is commonly considered the first colored dye.
This dark blue was the predominant color in the funeral wardrobe of
Tutenkhamen and the only color found in linen fragments of ancient Israel and
Palestine. Even the Bible speaks of "blue clothes" traded by the merchants of
Sheba2.

4th Century: The major textile trade, the "silk route" had begun and
Indigo and handloom silks and cottons were highly priced commodities.

1602: Two small ships of the recently founded English East India
Company sailed into modern-day Indonesia. They establish their first trading
post on Java and started to dominate trade between Britain and Asia for the
next 300 years.

57
 Around 1700, the industrial revolution effectively wiped out the

handloom industry in most parts of Europe.

1930: Mahatma Gandhi starts his civil disobedience campaign against

the British. He advocates boycotting machine made European clothing and

encourages Indians to embrace hand made cloth called Khadi3.

1947: India achieves its Independence.

1991: India opens its economy through a liberalization plan orchestrated

by Manmohan Singh.

1995: India enters the World Trade Organization (WTO)

2003: Indigo Handloom established.

2005: Due to WTO rules, subsidies for handloom weavers are cut or

severely curtailed.

2006: IndigoHandloom.com launched.

2007: Indigo Handloom retail store established in Brooklyn.

Indigo Handloom tracks news about the handloom cottage industry and Row it

pertains to our eco-friendly fashion designs and our global sustainability

initiatives4.

Since Good old days the Handloom Industry occupies a place of

prominence in our country's economy for her handloom products, particularly

sarees. To their product, Fulia's contribution is undoubtedly significant. It is

stated by some noted historians that the Muslin' of Dacca, of earstwhile East

58
Bengal, created a sensation in the Western world for its qualitative superiority.

It is stated that these sarees created law and order problems in Paris, when teen

aged girls went out on streets in 'Muslins' for its transparency5.

The history of handloom industry dates back to the Epic Ages. The Gos-

samer silk of Varanasi, fine Muslin of Dacca and Potala of Borada have been

famous for ages. Export of Handloom cloth dates back to the time of Gautam

Buddha. India occupies a priceless position in foreign trade of which such

handloom products shared the major part of the trade revenues creating a huge

favourable balance of trade. It is also confirmed by the Roman historian Pliny

who lamented that a river of gold was flowing from the Roman Empire to

India.

59
 Figure 3.1

Handloom Clusters in India

60
ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE

On the basis of the organisational structure and the relations of production,

the handloom industry can be divided into the following sectors: i) independent

weaver, ii) co-operative, sector and (iii) master-weaver sectors6.

i. Independent weavers

Independent weavers are those who produce cloth on their own, that is, they

own the instruments of production, purchase raw materials from market and

produce fabric with family labour and sell the products in the local market or to

traders. The stiff competition from the power looms and the rising prices of cotton

hank yarn and dyes has been quite drastic on these weavers.

ii. Co-operative sector

The handloom co-operatives are a major segment accounting for a large

proportion of weavers as members. The co-operatives, that emerged as a

mechanism for protecting the weavers from the dominant master-weavers and

traders and recorded notable success in their objective have seen a decline

since the 1980s. If the increasing use of the handloom co-operatives as

channels of political ascendancy by the community elite drifted the co-

operatives away from their intended purpose, then the increasing political and

governmental interference, development of bureaucratic tendencies and

corruption hampered their autonomous functioning. Further, the

ineffectiveness of the co-operatives in ensuring regular supply of the raw

materials and the delays in the payment of wages, forced the average weaver to

shift to the master-weaver system. As a consequence of this, a number of

61
co-operatives, which once had successful record, have been rendered non-

functional. The bogus co-operatives, floated by influential master-weavers/

traders/ local politicians (and also by powerloom owners) to comer the

subsidies and marketing facilities extended by the government and the state

apex handloom co-operative body, have not only robbed the genuine

co-operatives of their due share but also contributed to the credibility crisis of

the co-operative sector.

The displaced independent and cooperative sector weavers were forced to

migrate to the handloom centers to work under master-weavers and to

powerloom centers. The migrant men weavers thus began shifting to

powerlooms and women weavers to beedi making. In the urban areas where

alternative employment opportunities arc relatively better, we find the young

weavers taking up job of shop assistants and also shifting to construction work,

autorickshaw driving, etc., as the less skilled handloom weaving is found to be

less attractive due to low wages and continual insecurity7.

iii. Master-weaver sector

In this system the master-weaver or the entrepreneur produces cloth by

employing wage labour. Either he directly markets the product or sells it to

traders. Here two kinds of production practices exist: i) put-out system and

ii) kharkhana system. In the put-out system, the weaver works at his home on

his own loom using the raw materials supplied by the master-weaver for a piece

rate wage. The entire family of the weaver is involved in the production

process - with the adult members engaged in weaving and the aged and

children helping in the preparation of accessories.

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 In the kharkhana or shed-worker system, the weavers work on the looms

provided by the master weavers' under one roof. This system is prevalent in the

handloom centres where migrant weavers are preponderant like Mangalagiri in

Guntur and Koyalagudem in Nalgonda in Andhra Pradesh. With the decline of

independent weavers and the marginalisation of the co-operative sector, the

master-weaver sector has emerged as the dominant system by attracting the

displaced weavers. It accounts for a major share in the handloom production8.

Context and Developments

The present state of the handloom sector has to be seen in the overall

perspective of the modernist development pursued in the post-independence

period. A significant step in this direction, especially in relation to the rural

economy and life in the countryside is the green revolution. The fastening of

the process of modernization and commercialization of agrarian economy,

following the green revolution, has had a drastic impact on the rural farming,

artisan and other occupational communities like the potters, blacksmiths,

carpenters, etc., in the sense of the erosion of .their traditional livelihood

patterns and social life. It is no exaggeration to say that it is only the handloom

weavers who have shown a greater tenacity through restructuring of the

industry both internally and spatially. A visible and unfortunate aspect of this

story is the reduction of the weaver to a level of bare subsistence.

Within this broad context, the handloom sector could be seen witnessing

remarkable changes in the nature and structure of production, technology and

marketing since the late 1960s in response to (besides the agrarian

transformation induced by the green revolution) the changes in the textile

63
production and marketing, albeit with regional and local specificities. Equally

significant are the changes that have occurred in the social life of the weaver

communities shaping their survival responses9.

The factor that contributed significantly to this change is the

phenomenal growth of the powerlooms, which recorded an unprecedented
increase from 1.5 lakhs in 1963 to 3.09 Iakhsin 1975.3 The direct impact of the
powerloom growth on the handlooms can be gauged from the assessment of
the high-powered committee of the Planning Commission, headed by
Shivaraman, according to which the addition of one powerloom resulted in the
displacement of six handlooms. The impact of the powerloom proliferation
since mid-Sixties and stuff competition from its low priced products
penetrating the local rural market could clearly be seen in the gradual and
visible displacement of the weavers, decline in their economic well-being and
loss of their independence in the production process10.

Textile policies after independence, vowing to support and protect the

handlooms, made several safeguards. The principal aspect of the policy
perspective was that handloom industry is an important and distinct sector with
its specific problems and it needs to be supported in order to ensure
employment in the rural non-farm sector. Departing from this commitment, the
1985 textile policy made a policy shift and therefore it deserves to be analysed.

Policy Shift

The 1985 textile policy made a decisive shift in the policy regime in
terms of perception, perspective and priorities. The earlier policy framework
viewing the textile industry in terms of its employment potential accorded

64
policy priority to handlooms vis-a-vis the other two sectors (i.e. powerlooms
and mills). The 1985 policy emphasizing productivity as the prime objective
aimed at visualising an entirely different textile scenario.

In pursuit of this, the 1985 policy made a perspectival shift in its policy

focus on the textile industry from a sectoral view (the three sectors being the

handlooms, powerlooms and mills) to a process view (the important processes

being spinning, weaving and product process). Thus the sectoral orientation is

said to have led to the "structural rigidities" in the textile industry. Contrarily,

it assumed that the prioritization of processes would contribute to a

'comprehensive view' of the industry and thereby eliminate its rigidities.

Accordingly, it promised to provide "fuller flexibility in the use of various

fibers" and "pragmatic policies regarding creation or contraction of capabilities

by units to increase competition and promote healthy growth11.

The process view of the industry as a matter of fact contributed to the

under-emphasis of the specificities of different sectors, especially of the
handlooms, in terms of the requirement of raw materials and capital, labour
conditions, production and marketing structure and consumer demand pattern,
etc. Thus the relative strengths and weaknesses or advantages and
disadvantages of the different sectors arc glossed over. By emphasizing
productivity as the main objective and insisting on the process view of the
industry, the 1985 policy aimed at the creation of a level playing field between
the handlooms, powerlooms and mills. This policy perspective, needless to say
was clearly to the disadvantage of the handloom sector as the crisis in the
already vulnerable handlooms in the late 1980s and early 1990s amply
demonstrated12.

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 The 1985 policy, in spite of the shift, promised support to the

handlooms. The Handloom (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985

reserving 22 varieties of articles for exclusive production in the handloom

sector and the Hank Yarn Obligation are two important steps in this direction.

The former challenged by the powerful powerloom and mill owner lobbies

remained sub-judice for eight years. During this period, the aggressive

powerlooms proliferated without any hindrance. Taking a serious note of the

ground realities, a high-powered committee headed by Abid Hussain,

constituted to review the 1985 policy, emphasized the urgency in the creation

of necessary institutional mechanism for the enforcement of the act. Ironically,

the government constituted another committee and as per its recommendation

reduced the number of the reserved items to eleven. The fate of this act clearly

illustrated how whatever limited legal safeguards the handloom weavers are

promised with are diluted and rendered ineffective by the powers-that-be.

The Hank Yarn Obligation Order requires the spinning mills to process

50 percent of their output in hank form to meet the requirements of the

handlooms. This order was more often violated than adhered to. Making use of

various exemptions, the mills actually tried to avoid the target. Thus a World

Bank report noted, "the actual deliveries of hank yarn generally averaged about

25 percent of total yarn output during the last decades". The obligation,

instead, has been transferred to the public sector - NTC and State government -

and cooperative mills13.

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Economic Reforms

The macro-economic reforms initiated in 1991 pushed further the

liberalization of the textile industry initiated by the 1985 policy. One of the

important aspects of this, which had immediate impact on the handlooms, was

the liberalization of the export of yarn and dyes. The trade liberalisation led to

a sudden increase in the exports of yarn (and cotton); in this the proportion of

hank yarn, especially in the counts of 20s and 40s used by a large proportion of

weavers, increased many times.

The rise in the prices of inputs, i.e., yarn and dyes, is crucial to the
handloom crisis. The violation of the Hank Yarn Obligation by the spinning
mills, the crisis and closure of the cooperative spinning mills, trade
liberalization encouraging exports of yarn and dyes have compounded the
problems of the weavers by paving the way for an acute yarn crisis.

The handloom crisis witnessed in AndraPradesh in 1991 was the most

acute one in the recent memory. Within a span of few months, with the prices
of hank yarn mounting, following the increased exports and the master-
weavers disinclined to continue production, the weavers found themselves out
of work and were pushed into starvation. More than 110 weavers died out of
starvation or committed suicides14.

The government's response to the yarn crisis consisted of two specific

schemes. They were Mill Gate Price Scheme (MGPS) and Hank Yarn Price
Subsidy Scheme. Needless to say the yarn supply targets aimed at under these
schemes were far less than the actual requirements. While the per annum
requirement of the hank yarn is assessed to be around 460 to 480 million kgs,

67
the hank yarn target under the MGPS was 10 million kgs and that under the
HYPSS was 20 million kgs (with a subsidy of rupees 15 per kg). These
schemes were meant for the weavers in the cooperative sector, when in fact a
majority of the weavers are in the master weaver segment. Further the yarn
supply was grossly out of tune with the diversity that characterizes the
handloom industry in terms of the count, quality and requirement.

NATIONAL TEXTILE POLICY

The 2000 textile policy, it is stated, has become imperative to meet the
challenges and requirements of the changed environment consequent upon the
liberalization of the Indian economy and the new trade regime being initiated
by the World Trade Organisation (WTO). Thus it would be instructive to
examine the possible implications of this policy to the handlooms.

The Government of India constituted a committee, under the

chairmanship of SR Satyarn in July 1998, to make recommendations for this
purpose. The report of the committee, which is kept confidential, contains
recommendations that have far-reaching consequences for the textile industry
in general and for the handloom sector in particular15.

The Satyarn committee report, deviating from the established practice of

differentiating weavers on the basis of organisation of production into co-
operative, master-weaver and independent weaver segments, which has been
an accepted method and basis for policy initiatives, argued for the
categorization of weavers on the basis of the 'quality' of cloth produced.
Accordingly, three tiers are identified. In the first tier are grouped the weavers
"producing unique, exclusive, high value added items" in the second tier

68
producers of "medium priced fabrics and made up articles from not-so-fine
counts of yarn" and in the third tier are included those producing "plains and
low cost textile items"16.

What follows from this is the most significant of the recommendations

of the committee that is to shift the weavers of the third tier to other tiers of

handloom and powerloom sectors and other occupations. For the 'least painful

conversion' the first tier of powerloom and handloom sectors arc identified as

'alternative avenues of livelihood'. The Government is suggested to take steps

in this direction by providing the weavers with semi-automatic looms and

necessary training.

The Principal objective of the report is to suggest the ways of coping up

with the competition in the international market. It therefore suggested the

government to support the weavers in this regard by devising special schemes.

In such a competitive context, it felt that there was no place for protections and

therefore in the same breath it recommended the scrapping of the Reservation

Act and Hank Yarn Obligation, the two crucial legal measures, though

ineffective in implementation, meant to protect the handloom sector.

Thus the major thrust of the government in the context of neo-liberal

reforms has been on orienting the handloom sector to die globalisation process

as a principal strategy for its survival. What is in the process lost sight of is the

strength of the handloom sector, which lies in the acceptance of and demand

for its products in the local market. Needless to say, the specificity and

specialty of handloom products is largely determined by the local traditions

and customs. The community skills, techniques involved in different stages of

69
production are historically evolved and are owned and imparted communally.

For this reason, handloom production is characterized by region-specific

diversity. Thus it cannot be reduced to or understood only in terms of abstract

demand and supply principle of market. The emphasis on the export-

orientation as a strategy of survival is not only against the very nature of

handloom production but in fact would prove to be suicidal for the handloom

weavers. What is in store for the millions of the already impoverished weavers

is a future of further misery and starvation17.

It is therefore necessary to rethink the handloom question with a view to

evolve alternative strategy to strengthen the sector and secure livelihood to the

weavers. The following have to be the basic premises of such a strategy.

Firstly, it must be recognized that the strength of the handlooms is the local

society and market. This relationship has experienced serious strains and

violence. It may be difficult to restore it. But it is politically possible to

rediscover the handlooms - agriculture relationship on a different plane. For

this, conscious civil society initiative and efforts arc required in addition to the

state support.

Secondly, in the absence of alternative sources of mass employment

emerging, as the last decade and half experience with liberalization has shown,
it becomes the responsibility of the state to protect the existing employment, of
course with necessary changes. What is required and therefore to be demanded
is a critical intervention and support of the state in terms of providing
accessibility to raw materials, credit and market intelligence. Further, it is also
necessary that the state plays its role in strengthening the welfare and security
of the weavers in this sector.

70
 Indian hand woven fabrics have been known since time immemorial.

Poets of the Mughal durbar likened our muslins to baft hawa (woven air),

aberawan (running water) and shabnam (morning dew). A tale runs that

Emperor Aurangzeb had a fit of rage when he one day saw his daughter

princess Zeb-un-Nissa clad in almost nothing. On being severely rebuked, the

princess explained that she had not one but seven jamahs (dresses) on her body.

Such was the fineness of the hand woven fabrics18.

HISTORICAL EVIDENCE

Though India was famous even in ancient times as an exporter of textiles

to most parts of the civilized world, few actual fabrics of the early dyed or

printed cottons have survived. This, it is explained is due to a hot, moist climate

and the existence of the monsoons in India. It is not surprising therefore, that

Egypt which has an exceptionally dry climate would provide evidence which

India lacks. The earliest Indian fragment of cloth (before the Christian era) with

a hansa (swan) design was excavated from a site near Cairo where the hot dry

sand of the desert acted as a preservative.

Later, fragments of finely woven and madder-dyed cotton fabrics and

shuttles were found at some of the excavated sites of Mohenjodaro (Indus

valley civilization). Indian floral prints, dating back to the 18th century A.D

were discovered by Sir Aurei Stein in the icy waters of Central Asia. The

evidence shows that of all the arts and crafts of India, traditional handloom

textiles are probably the oldest19.

71
HANDLOOMS, THE LARGEST COTTAGE INDUSTRY

Handlooms are an important craft product and comprise the largest

cottage industry of the country. Millions of looms across the country are

engaged in weaving cotton, silk and other natural fibers. There is hardly a

village where weavers do not exist, each weaving out the traditional beauty of

India's own precious heritage20.

THE INDIAN HERITAGE

In the world of handlooms, there are Madras checks from Tamil Nadu,
ikats from Andhra and Orissa, tie and dye from Gujarat and Rajasthan, brocades
from Banaras, jacquards form Uttar Pradesh. Daccai from West Bengal, and
phulkari from Punjab. Yet, despite this regional distinction there has been a
great deal of technical and stylistic exchange.

The famed Coimbatore saris have developed while imitating the Chanderi
pattern of Madhya Pradesh. Daccai saris are now woven in Bengal, no Dhaka.
The Surat tanchoi based on a technique of satin weaving with the extra weft
floats that are absorbed in the fabric itself has been reproduced in Varanasi.
Besides its own traditional weaves, there is hardly any style of weaving that
Varanasi cannot reproduce. The Baluchar technique of plain woven fabric
brocaded with untwisted silk thread, which began in Murshidabad district of
West Bengal, has taken root in Varanasi. Their craftsmen have also borrowed
the jamdani technique21.

Woolen weaves are no less subtle. The Kashmiri weaver is known the
world over for his Pashmina and Shahtoosh shawis. The shawls are
unbelievably light and warm.

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 The states of Kashmir and Karnataka are known for their mulberry silk.

India is the only country in the world producing all four commercially known

silks - mulberry, tasser (tussore), eri and muga. Now gaining popularity in the

U.S.A. and Europe tasser is found in the remote forests of Bihar, Madhya

Pradesh, Orissa West Bengal, Andhra Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh. Another kind

of raw silk is eri. Eri is soft, dull and has wool like finish.

Assam is the home of eri and muga silk. Muga is durable and its natural
tones of golden yellow and rare sheen becomes more lustrous with every wash.
The designs used in Assam, Tripura and Manipur are mostly stylized symbols,
cross borders and the galaxy of stars. Assamese weavers produce beautiful
designs on the borders of their mekhfa, chaddar, riha (traditional garments used
by the women) and gamosa (towel). It is customary in Assamese society for a
young woman to weave a silk bihuan (cloth draped over the chest) for her
beloved as a token of love on Bohag Bihu (new year's eve).

From Andhra Pradesh, Orissa and Gujarat come the ikats. The ikat
technique in India is commonly known as patola in Gujarat, bandha in Orissa,
pagdu bandhu, buddavasi and chitki in Andhra Pradesh. In the ikat tie and dye
process, the designs in various colors are formed on the fabric either by the warp
threads or the weft threads or by both. The threads forming the design are tied
and dyed separately to bring in the desired color and the simple interlacement of
the threads produces, the most intricate designs, that appear only in the finished
weaving. The Orissa ikat is a much older tradition that Andhra Pradesh or
Gujarat, and their more popular motifs as such are a stylized fish and the
rudraksh bead. Here the color is built up thread by thread. In fact, Orissa ikat is
known now as yarn tie and dye. In Andhra Pradesh, they bunch some threads
together and tie and dye and they also have total freedom of design22.
73
 Some say that ikat was an innovative technique, first created in India,

which wast later carried to Indonesia, the only other place in the world with a

strong ikat tradition.

USING DYES

The process of resist-dyeing, tie-dyeing and yarns tie-dyed to a pattern

before weaving were the basic techniques of indigenous dyeing of village cloth.

Shellac was used for reds, iron shavings and vinegar for blacks, turmeric for

yellow and pomegranate finds for green. Before the artificial synthesis of indigo

and alizarin as dye stuffs, blues and reds were traditionally extracted from the

plants indigofera, anil and rubia tintorum (madder-root). These were the main

sources for traditionai Indian dyes.

Even today, the Kalmkari cloth of Andhra Pradesh is printed with local

vegetable dyes. The colors being shades of ochre, deep blue and a soft rose

derived from local earths, indigo and madder roots.

PRINTING

Tamil Nadu has made a significant contribution to the history of hand-

printed textiles in India. Printing is native to the land, its pigments being obtained

from the flowers, leaves and barks of local trees and it chemicals obtained from

clay, dung and river sands.

A new technique has been developed in the northern sectors where warp

threads are fined, measured and tied to the loom and then printed. The warp-

printed material is a specialty of Haryana and Uttar Pradesh.

74
 The ideal seasons for block printing are the dry months. Excellence is

achieved only if the block is freshly and perfectly chiseled. The designs are

produced by artists and the designing is kept within the discipline imposed, the

type of yarn, the dyes used and the weaving techniques, by the nakshabandhas

(graph-paper designers).

India also produces a range of home furnishings, household linen, curtain

tapestry and yardage of interesting textures and varying thickness, which have

been devised by using blended yarn.

Muslims were forbidden the use of pure silk, and the half cotton half silk,

fabrics known, as mashru and himru were a response to this taboo. Given the

wide and exciting range of handloom it is not surprising that the rich and

beautiful products of the weavers of India have been called exquisite poetry in

colorful fabrics23.

GOVT. MEASURES FOR PROMOTION OF HANDLOOM SECTOR IN

TAMIL NADU

Tamil Nadu was the 3rd largest industrial state in the country. The gross

output of its industrial sector was Rs.37,986 crores, accounting for 10.3percent

of the national output. Handloom industry Tamil Nadu plays an important role

in improving economic conditions of the rural poor by providing employment

about 65 lakh people are directly or indirectly employed in the Handloom Sector

as weavers and allied workers. Tamil Nadu has identified 22 locations for

establishing handloom clusters with financial assistance from the Centre24.

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 The average annual production of handloom cloth in the State is about

2500 lakh metres, of which, contribution made by handloom cooperatives is

around 1200 lakh meters. Average annual sales of handloom cloth are Rs.1500

crore, of which, the sales by handloom cooperatives accounts for Rs.700 crore.

The average annual export of handloom doth by Tamil Nadu is Rs.600 crore, of

which export sales by Handloom cooperatives through Merchant Export is

around Rs.260 crore25.

In the context of opening up of global textiles market, the approach of the

Government is to 'sustain the handloom industry' and 'continue to provide

livelihood to the Lakhs of weavers who depend on this activity'. This requires

constant skill upgradation to produce marketable products, technology

upgradation to increase the productivity and to maintain quality to compete in the

world market besides product diversification through continuous design

interventions. All the above measures will ensure sustenance of the industry.

A provision of Rs.256 crores has been made for this scheme. In order to

continue the scheme for providing free power to handloom and powerloom

weavers, as announced by this Government in the previous calendar year, a

provision of Rs.78 crores has been made in this Budget. This initiative would

benefit 1,50,000 handloom and 80,000 powerloom weavers. The monthly

pension given to handloom weavers above 60 years of age will be doubled from

Rs.200 to Rs.400 per month. The Government will bear the additional

expenditure. This scheme will benefit about 13,000 handloom weavers

currently receiving pension26.

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 With a view to increasing the income of weavers, the Government is

implementing a scheme to boost the sales of handloom cloth by introducing new

designs in collaboration with the National institute of Design at Ahmedabad.

With a view to producing adequate quantity of silk yarn necessary for silk

weaving within the state itself, an additional 10,000 acres of land will be brought

under Mulberry cultivation in 2007-2008. Sericulture Development Project will

be implemented at an estimated cost of Rs.15 crores with central assistance.

HANDLOOM DEVELOPMENT SCHEMES

In order to develop the handloom sector, the Government has developed

many schemes, which are as follows.

1 Rebate Subsidy Scheme

Considering the handloom sector and its inbuilt disadvantages with

regard to price of its products, rebate subsidy assistance is granted by the State
Government. This is an indirect way of protecting the handloom sector from
severe competition and also to safeguard the handloom weavers from the
onslaught of market recession for handloom goods.

The State Government permitted the primary weavers co-operative

societies and Co-optex to allow rebate at the rate of 20 percent for the sale of
handloom cloth. As per the policy of the State Government, the excess
expenditure over and above the Government of India's contribution under
Marketing Incentive component of the Deendayal Hathkargha Protsahan
Yojana Scheme will be borne by the State Government. For implementation of
this Scheme, a provision of Rs.102 crore has been made in the Revised Budget
for the year 2006-07.
77
2 Deendayal Hathkargha Protsahan Yojana Scheme

Deen Dayal Hathkargha Protsahan Yojana Scheme is a comprehensive

scheme for handlooms sector formulated by the Government of India, which has
been implemented with effect from 1.4.2000. The funding pattern of the scheme
is on sharing basis between Centre and State Governments in the ratio of 50:50.

The financial assistance provided under various components of the

scheme is as follows:

A. Basic Inputs

Financial assistance in the form of Margin Money at the rate of Rs.4000/-

per weaver shall be provided. A grant of Rs.2,000/- for purchase of new looms,
Rs.1500/-. for dobby, Rs.2000/- for jacquard and Rs.1000/- for other accessories
will also be provided.

B. Infrastructure Support

Financial assistance for infrastructure support will be extended to Primary

Weavers' Cooperative Societies for setting up of Water and Effluent Treatment
Plants, setting up of Common Facility Centres to carry out warping, pre and
postloom operations, etc.

C. Design Input

State Level Handloom Organizations /Apex Societies having turnover of

more than Rs.5.00 crore and Primary Societies with turnover of more than
Rs.25.00 lakh in the preceding year will be eligible to get one time assistance in
the form of grant of Rs.5.00 lakh per institution for provision of designs and
installation of Computer Aided Design system to improve the design quality of
the products.
78
 The Primary Weavers Cooperative Societies are also eligible to get one
time assistance in the form of grant of Rs.1.00 lakh to avail of the services of
National Institute of Design, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Weavers
Service Centre, etc.

D. Publicity

Financial assistance in the form of grant subject to a maximum of Rs.5.00

lakh per institution will be provided for projects involving expenditure towards

Publicity, Advertisement, Printing of brochures catalogues, market research and

market surveys/studies as well as production of films for promotion of sales of

handlooms.

E. Strengthening of Handloom Organizations

Financial assistance will be provided towards financial restructuring of

State Handloom Corporations and Apex Weavers Cooperative Societies /

Federations with a view to making them viable by enhancing their credit limit /

Working capital, etc. Under this Scheme, a provision of Rs.1190.01 lakh has

been made in the Revised Budget for the year 2006-07.

3. Free Distribution of Sarees and Dhoties Scheme

This Scheme provides continuous employment to about 11,000 handloom

weavers and 23,000 powerloom weavers, but also fulfills the clothing needs of

3.28 crore poor people in Tamil Nadu. The Sarees and Dhoties required for the

scheme will be produced and supplied by the Handloom and Powerloom

Weavers Cooperative Societies in the State27.

79
 Towards implementation of Free Distribution of Sarees and Dhoties
Scheme for Pongal 2007, a provision of Rs.273.00 crore has been made in the
Revised Budget for the year 2010-11.

4 Free distribution of Uniform Scheme

The Scheme of Free Supply of Uniforms to School Children studying in

std. I to VIII covered under Nutritious Noon Meal Programme is being
implemented by the State Government from the year 1985-86 and the cloth
required for the scheme is being produced by the Weavers' Co-operative
Societies. Towards implementation of this Scheme, a provision of Rs.40.00 crore
has been made in the Revised Budget for the year 2010-11.

5 Working Capital at concessional rate of interest to Handloom

Weavers Cooperative Societies and Co-optex

Financial assistance at concessional rate of interest was provided by Tamil

Nadu State Apex Cooperative Bank and the District Central Cooperative Banks
under NABARD Refinance Scheme. The Primary Weavers' Cooperative
Societies are being provided with Working Capital finance at normal rate of
interest. The total Cash Credit limits sanctioned by the NABARD both to the
Primary Weavers' Cooperative Societies and Tamil Nadu Handloom Weavers'
Cooperative Society (Co-optex) for the year 2010-2011 is Rs.315.51 crore.

6 Prize Award Scheme for the Best Exporters

To encourage the export trade in handloom cloth and to widen their

market in foreign countries, the Government of Tamil Nadu have been
implementing the scheme to Award Prizes to the Best Exporters in Tamil Nadu.
This scheme is being implemented from 1975 onwards.

80
 In order to encourage export production among primary weavers'
co-operative societies, the Government have been sanctioning a sum of
Rs.50.000/- every year towards the implementation of this scheme. Under this
scheme, Trophies and Certificates to the best exporters including primary
weavers co-operative societies are distributed.

7 Prize Award Scheme for Best Weavers for New Designs

To encourage handloom weavers for developing new designs, the

Government is implementing Prize Award Scheme. Every year, the best talented

weavers who have developed new designs are awarded prizes as follows:

1) First prize - Rs.5,000/-, 2) Second prize - Rs.3,000/-

3) Third prize - Rs.2,000/-

This scheme will encourage the societies to introduce new designs so as

to produce marketable/ exportable varieties. The expenditure under this scheme

is being met out from the Cooperative Research and Development Fund of the

Tamil Nadu Co-operative Union.

8 Integrated Handloom Cluster Development Programme

The Government of India have formulated a new scheme called

Integrated Handloom Cluster Development Programme for the overall

development of handloom clusters. Under this scheme, assistance is being

provided for various components such as upgradation, modification, purchase of

looms and accessories, setting up of Dyeing Units, common facility centers,

opening of showrooms, conducting of exhibitions/fairs, publicity, providing of

design inputs etc. The maximum assistance for each cluster will be Rs.200.00

81
lakh. By way of implementation of this programme, the overall socio-economic

status of the Handloom weavers of the clusters is expected to improve.

The Government of Tamil Nadu have selected Tiruvannamalai, Trichy

and Kurinjipadi clusters for implementation of this programme and the same has

been approved by the Government of India also. Based on the approvals given,

steps are being taken to implement the Programmes in the above 3 Handloom

Clusters viz. Tiruvannamalai, Trichy and Kurinjipadi.

9 Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985

To protect handloom weavers and the handloom industry from the

onslaught of powerlooms, the Government of India have enacted handlooms

(Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985 for implementation by all the

States in the country. The Government of India have reserved 11 items

exclusively for production in handlooms. To implement the Handlooms

Reservation Act effectively, separate Enforcement Machinery in Tamil Nadu

has been formed with a Deputy Director at Head Quarters, Chennai and five

Field level offices28.

HANDLOOMS AND TEXTILES POLICY

Tamilnadu has played a key role towards achieving the growth of Textile

industry in India. Spinning, Handloom, Powerloom and Garment are the four

pillars of the Textile Sector in the State.

The objective and activities of the Department of Handlooms and Textiles

is to promote the harmonious growth of Handloom, Powerloom and Textile

Sectors and to work for the welfare of the handloom weavers.

82
 Handloom industry in Tamilnadu plays an important role in improving

economic conditions of the rural poor by providing employment for more than

4.29 lakh weaver households and about 11.64 lakh weavers. In Tamilnadu, 2.11

lakh handlooms are functioning in 1247 handloom weavers co-operative societies

and the remaining looms are outside the co-operative fold. Out of 1247

handloom weavers co-operative societies, 1169 are cotton weavers co-operative

societies and the remaining 78 are silk weavers co-operative societies. The

handloom weavers co-operative societies mostly exist in Rural and Semi-Urban

areas, where there is large concentration of handloom weavers. All the

Development and welfare schemes implemented by the Government of

Tamilnadu and Government of India are channalised through the weavers co-

operative societies.

The handloom weavers co-operative societies have produced 1083.26

lakh metres of Handloom cloth valued at Rs.559.72 crore and sold handloom
goods to the extent of Rs.696.58 crore during the year 2010-11. There is an
increase of sale of handloom cloth worth Rs.121.97 crore in 2010-11 over the
sales made during the year 2009-10. The number of handloom weavers co-
operative societies working on profit has been increased from 527 during the
year 2009-2010 to 601 during the year 2010-2011.Marketing is the major factor
for the performance of the handloom weavers co-operative societies. To capture
the consumer market, production of marketable / exportable varieties have been
encouraged by the Department and suitable action plan have been given to the
handloom weavers co-operative societies depending upon the market trend, so as
to increase the sales. It has been programmed to adopt new marketing strategies
by infusing more number of designs during the year 2010-11, so as to improve
the sale of handloom fabrics29.
83
 With a view to provide continuous employment to the powerloom

weavers, it has been programmed to produce marketable varieties in the

powerloom weavers co-operative societies and suitable action plan has been

given to the powerloom weavers co-operative.

SCHEME FOR HANDLOOM EXPORT DEVELOPMENT

Export of handloom has identified as a Thrust Area for the overall

development of the sector. The Government is exploring the possibility of

making optimal use of the resources to enhance production capabilities of

exportable products30.

In order to give substantial impetus to the export of handloom fabric,

made-ups and other handloom items from the country, a scheme for

Development of Exportable Products and their Marketing was introduced during

1996-97. Under the scheme, the assistance is available for developing exportable

products, building up production capability for export and thereafter

marketing it.

National and State level Handloom Corporations, Apex Cooperative

societies, Primary Cooperative societies and Handloom Cooperative Societies

affiliated to /registered and sponsored by Councils/Corporations, Handloom

Export Promotion Council, Association of Corporations and Apex Societies of

Handlooms, Handicrafts and Handloom Export Corporation, Indian Silk Export

Promotion Council, National Handloom Development Corporation etc.are

eligible for assistance under this scheme. Private handloom exporters can also be

assisted through HEPC.

84
 The project cost in respect of the agency sponsored by the State

Governments is shared by the State Government itself or by the beneficiary

agency. The agencies sponsored by Central Government like HEPC, HHEC,

NHDC, ACASH etc. are entitled to 100percent assistance from the Government

of India under the scheme.

HANDLOOM EXPORT ZONES IN TAMILNADU

Five handloom export zones (HEZs) are being established in Tamil Nadu

as part of initiatives to promote exports in the sector, the state government would

provide infrastructure and land for this, the Centre would provide Rs 60 lakh for

each of the clusters. The HEZs will come tip in Nagercoil, Virudhunagar,

Kancheepuram, Tiruvannamalai and Nagapattinam. The first zone would be

commissioned in Nagercoil by October this year.

"The HEZs would provide new focus for export of handloom and more

jobs domestically. One new studio to improve designing are being established at

Karur. Next year onwards a separate classification code for handloom, which

would make it easy and convenient to generate data of handloom exports.

85
HANDLOOM MARKETS

The market for handloom products is four-tiered:

1. The self-consumption sector where handlooms are made for household

requirements and not for safe, as in the northeast of India.

2. The rural market where weavers do the marketing themselves.

3. The distant domestic market, largely urban, and which is beyond the

reach of weavers.

4. Export markets.

Master weavers and private traders market 90percent of handloom

products. The traders either retail these products through their own outlets or act

as intermediaries supplying wholesalers or retailers. The bulk of exports are

handled through merchant exporters and manufacturer-exporters, the former

getting their supplies from manufacturers and master weavers, while the latter

having their own production facilities.

FINANCIAL ASSISTANCE

Exclusively to assist weavers, the state govt. has started a corporation

entitled. The Tamilnadu Handloom Development Corporation Ltd. This was a

public sector undertaking started in the year 1964 with a view to provide

financial Assistance to the weavers outside the cooperative fold. Members of the

corporation will be eligible to obtain loan for working capital purposes. The

Branches of the Corporation situated at Salem, Madurai, Coimbatore,

Kancheepuram, Cuddalore , Kumbakonam and Tirunelveli.

86
 The members of the corporation alone are eligible to obtain loan from the

Corporation. A member can obtain loan to the extent of ten times the amount of

share capital invested by him. A member can also avail loan if he has ten shares

and also deposits a margin money equivalent to ten times the amount of loan. The

amount of loan up to a limit of Rs.1,00,000/-. This loan will be sanctioned for

production , marketing and processing of Handloom, Powerloom and Hosiery

cloth. The entire amount of loan will have to be repaid within a period of 18

months in two equal installments . interest should be paid in every quarter. The

rate of interest is 18.5percent. If member remits the installments of principal and

interest promptly, he will be eligible for a rebate of 1percent . For delayed

remittance of Principal, penal interest will be levied.

STEPS TAKEN BY THE GOVERNMENT

To improve the handloom sector, the Government has taken many steps.

like,

1 Implementation of Free Distribution of Sarees and Dhoties Scheme :

2 Steps taken for increasing the sales and to reduce the stock of handloom

goods

3 New insurance Scheme for Handloom Weavers

4 introduction of New Designs

5 Implementation of the Scheme of Free supply of Uniforms to School

Children

6 Conduct of District Level Exhibitions

7 Exports by Weavers Co-operative Societies

8 Special Project Under Swarna Jayanthi Gram Swarozgar Yojana Scheme

87
9 Training to weavers for upgradation of skills and improving designs

10 Restructuring of Co-optex

11 Financial Assistance for implementation of Voluntary Retirement

Scheme

12 Settlement of dues to District Central Co-operative Banks / State Bank of

India

13 Textile Centre Infrastructure Development Scheme (TCIDS)

14 Establishment of Apparel Parks

15 Establishment of Shutleless Powerloom Weaving Parks (Hi-Tech Park)

Handloom sector plays an important role in improving economic

condition. The Government of Tamil Nadu is liable to promote the industry.

Thus, the Government has announced many schemes and developed many

policies to develop the sector. The govt., providing adequate financial support

through the institutions to the wavers. Apart from that, the govt. promoting new

handloom export zones in Tamil Nadu. Concerned with Tamil Nadu the weaver

as well as the handloom sector is well established.

IMPORTANCE AND HISTORY OF HANDLOOM INDUSTRY

Cloth. is the second important Item for human life and it is provided by the

handloom industry along with the mill sector.

"Among the cottage industries the pride of place is occupied by

handloom weaving

This statement tells us the importance of the handloom industry. Handloom

sector can be considered both as a small scale as well as a cottage industry"3

88
 As a small scale industry, it presents a picture of contrasts a highly

efficient master weavers sector and the not so efficient co-operative sector. As a

cottage industry it consists of the petty master weavers and the independent

weavers. Souraahtras, Mudaliars, Sallyars, Devangas and Muslims are the

important communities engaged in weaving. Among them, Souraahtras play a

dominant role. In Madurai City also it is true.

As for as the history is concerned, handloom industry in India has a very

long history, spanning over several centuries.

There is solid evidence that man was practicing the art of weaving in the mid

5th Millennium B.C. and the evidence indicates that at that time he had been practicing

it long enough to have grown fairly, sophisticated in his techniques.

From the above statement we can understand' the oldness of the handloom

industry. To day this sector gives food for many people.

The history of weaving goes to 5,400 B.C. At that time the people were using the

stems of plants, twigs and grass for wearing. They interlaced them to form a kind

of fabric to form mats and baskets. In 5,400 B.C. it has been found. . The Egyption

mummies have used fine fabrics for weaving. The tomb of Tuthmosis IV (1417

B.C.) tells us the early production of figured cloths. In 2,700 B.C. the Chinese had

used the silk in their textile art.

The American Indian, both in North and South America, was already an expert

weaver when the first colonist arrived. Indian weaving often has religious symbolism

and shows a love of nature. Indians valued their cloth highly and wasted none of it by

cutting".

89
 The above statement tells us the role played by Indians in the history of

weaving. The noted persons and their contribution to weaving industry is as follows:

In 1737 John Kay of Bury Lancashira, invented the flying shuttle which

made it possible for one person to work a wide loom, sitting in front as before

on a narrow loom.

In 1760 Robert Kay invented the drop box loom which facilitated the

use of more than one shuttle and the production of check designs.

In 1801 - '08 Joseph Marie Jacquard, a silk weaver of Lyons invented

the Jacquard loom, a handloom capable of weaving very elaborate designs. He

culminated the work of other inventors -Bouchier (1725) Falcon (1728) and

Vaucanson (1745).

The meaning of weaving is, "Production, of fabric by interlacing two sets

of yarn so that they cross each other normally at right angles, usually

accomplished with a hand or power operated loom.

Dressing the Loom

There are so many varieties of Handloom products. For each variety of

cloth separate handlooms are there. We can't use one loom for many products.

For example the "Rajkamal" Saree Design can be produced with the help of

"Self-design loom". The Self-design loom is costlier than that of ordinary loom.

"Preparing the loom for weaving is known as dressing the loom". There are so

many steps that follow in logical order which must be completed before the actual

weaving can begin. It is also known as Pre-stage activities.

90
 The first step is preparing the warp. The weaver must calculate number of
warps threads and their length, as well as the total yardage needed to complete the
project. Both the width and the length of the warp must be considered. The width of
the warp corresponds to the width of the finished fabric, plus about 10 percent for
pulling at the selvages.

The length of the selected warp is determined by how long the finished fabric
will be, plus 10 inches at each end for winding and finished and an additional 10 percent
for fabric shrinkage.

In dressing the loom, one end of the warp is attached to the back pron
bar and then rolled into the warp beam; the most tedious (and often frustrating) step in
weaving. When enough warp has been rolled so that it reaches the breast beam,
the warp threads are threaded through the heddles. Finally, the warp is attached to the
front pron bar, and the tension is adjusted.

In simple, pre-stage activities are

1. Deying, 2. Warp winding. 3. Warping. 4. Sizing and 5. Prin-winding.

GROWTH OF TECHNOLOGY IN HANDLOOM INDUSTRY

Since the handloom industry is a rural based cottage industry, the Jabour
content in pre-weaving and weaving operation is perdominent as compared to
mechanical operations. The efforts in machinery development for the
handloom industry have been oriented to improve machine and labour
productivity without sacrificing traditional labour involvement. This is
necessary to sustain the employment generating potential of this industry. The
production technology used in weaving of handloom fabrics is briefly
described as follows31:

91
Figure 3.2

92
Bobbin Winding

In the handloom industry, bobbin winding is done by female members

of weaver's families. An ordinary or improved charkha is used for this purpose.

The winding speed of the formal model is 90 mts/min. and that of the latter

models about 140 mts/min. This equipment is cheap, easily available even in

the remotest centres of handloom weaving, and occupies less space and does

not require electric power. However, certain amount of dexterity is required to

ensure uniform yarn tension and to make clean and well built bobbins. Yarn

tension is controlled by finger tip sensing.

Warping

Both vertical and horizontal sectional warping machines are used for

warping operations. The former is widely used in many handloom centres. It

costs approximately Rs.1000/- and is operated by a warper. Who is assisted by

a helper. A beam of 5600 ends and 500 metres length can be prepared in one

day. The machine requires a floor space of 10 ft x10 ft.

Yarn Sizing

Yarn sizing is done by warping yarn of full beam length around two

poles in a street and applying size paste manually. Yarn is dried in natural

environment. The size paste consists of natural adhesives, like wheat flour,

maize starch or potato starch. The weaver's beam is prepared by winding the

sized yarn using a beaming machine which is a simple, manually operated

equipment.

93
Weft Preparation

The procedure adopted for weft winding is to employ the charkha using

the finger tips for tensioning the yarn. This is a low cost operation and is done

mainly by females and children.

Weaving

A large variety of handlooms are used in different centres of the

handloom industry from the oldest throw-shuttle loom to semiautomatic and

automatic handlooms. Throw shuttle pit loom is the most primitive loom in

which head shafts are operated by the weavers with his legs and shuttle is

picked through shed by his hands. Frame loom is a modification of a fly shuttle

loom, in which shedding and picking operations have been modified to relieve

the weaver from the strain of manual shedding and picking.

For winding, cycle wheel charkha and winding machine have been

recommended to wind long and continuous lengths of yarn on bobbins and

pirns. Introduction of drums warping and sectional warping machine has been

recommended to improve productivity in warping operations against the

conventional street warping procedure. Attachment of beaming mechanism and

measuring and full beam stop motion on these warping machines will further

improve warping productivity.

Synthetic Weaving in the Handloom Industry

Weaving of synthetic fabrics has been identified as a major thrust area

for the development of handloom industry in India in the present century.

Although technology of synthetic weaving is well established in the mill sector,

94
the handloom industry has still to develop its own appropriate technology.

Indian Institute of Handloom Technology and Weaver's Service Centre,

Varanasi has been working on loom developments for synthetic weaving. They

have succeeded in modifying the pit loom and frame loom for weaving

polyester and its blends. However, further research work is still to be done for

pre-weaving operations, fabric development and design and chemical

processing of polyester and its blends.

Bar pirn winders used in powerloom centres of Surat and Ahmedabad

have been recommended for weft winding of filament yarri. These machines

are available in 20 spindle capacity and cost around Rs. 3,000. One machine

occupies space of 6' x 3' and requires a 1 hp motor. The speed of such a

machine is 150 mts/min. Conventional practice of preparing pirns on manually

operated charkha is not suitable for preparing filament weft as improper control

of tension, and soiling of weft will result in faulty cloth. Though it is possible

to weave filament yarn fabrics on many handlooms currently used in the

industry, it is necessary to introduce modifications to Improve product quality

and to increase efficiency of the loom. Pit loom, frame loom and semi-

automatic handlooms can be modified in the following ways, by the

introduction of or use of:

i) Smooth revolving take-up motion

ii) Rubber covered entry roller
iii) Separate cloth roller to get longer lengths of cloth.
iv) Rubber roller temples
v) A smooth sky race board covered with plush fabrics
vi) Restraining sky movement to get uniform pick density
vii) Use of glass or aluminum tease rods.
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Growth of Manufacturing Process of Handloom Cloth

Weaving is the basic process among the various manufacturing stages of

handloom cloth. On a casual observation, weaving processes may appear to be

a simple process but in practice, it involves a number of diligent preliminary

processes and stages. This section attempts to illustrate the various types of

looms and other raw materials used for weaving as well as the preliminary

production processes of handloom cloth of various coarse and fine varieties.

The Basic Tool Handloom and its Types:

The process of weaving, primarily constitutes interlacement of two sets

of threads viz. warp and weft and the equipment which operates this
interlacement is called 'loom'. The handloom is made up of a stick or wooden
frame for weaving but more often it is defined as a frame for weaving equipped
with some wooden devices. It is distinguished from that of powerloom on the
basis of the source of power used for weaving. It is generally classified either
on the basis of the raw materials used, the loom structure, its laying position on
ground or place of its origin. However, the looms which are popular in olden
days are called traditional looms.

In ancient days, there were many types of looms such as free warp loom,
warping loom, box-frame free warp loom, warp weighted loom, vertical-warp
loom, horizontal-warp loom, table loom, card and frame loom, bow loom,
crossed stick loom, mat loom, hole-board loom, stand warp loom., back-strap
loom etc., which were used in different places during different times.

96
 In India, various types of looms are traditionally in practice. However,

the types of handloom used particularly during the present century, is highly

notable. They can be noted on the nature of cloth produced or the places of

their origin. They are generally named as pit loom, frame loom, Manipuri

loom, Rajasthani loom, Kashmiri loom etc. Very recently, automatic and semi

automatic jacquard looms and mechanical jacquard looms are becoming

familiar in India.

Primitive Looms

The term 'Primitive' merely indicates that the structure of these looms

and the process employed in their working, though outmoded, have remained

unchanged for generations. These primitive looms still exist in the Eastern zone

as well as in tribal tracts of Madhya Pradesh, Orissa and Bihar, They are also

used in those parts of the country where some types of druggets, durries,

carpets, newars, tapes and coarse blankets are woven.

Pit Looms

Pit looms are the most widely used handlooms in India. These are of two

types. Till the advent of the fly shuttle sky, invented in England during the

eighteenth century, throw shuttle pit looms were predominant. Interestingly,

even today, the finest varieties of fabrics, known for their beautiful designs and

textures, are produced on throw shuttle pit looms.

Frame looms

Frame looms have come into existence due to certain advantages they
have in weaving designed varieties with more than two treadles. These
97
are also helpful in weaving fabric requiring mass production. In parts
of West Bengal, Assam and elsewhere in Eastern region, improvised
frame looms are replacing pit looms. These looms are also popular in
many parts of Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Haryana, Delhi and Punjab where
attractive furnishings, bed sheets and made up items are manufactured
on a large scale.

Semi-automatic Looms

Semi-automatic looms are now acquiring popularity in some weaving

centers in the country. Only a limited range of fabrics can be manufactured on
these semi-automatic looms. These looms are operated by human effort by
pedaling with legs or by moving the sky by hand. The Chittaranjan loom, the
Hattersley pedal loom, the Madanpura loom, the Banarasi semi-automatic
loom are some typical examples of this type of loom. Although productivity of
these looms is considerably higher than that of traditional looms, their
versatility is limited.

Stages of Production Processes

There are several stages involved in the process of production of

handloom cloth starting from the stage of purchase of yarn. They are dyeing,
loosening, twisting winding, warping, dressing, sizing, piecing and fixing the
warp with the loom for weaving. Yarn is usually purchased either from the
local market or from the co-operative market or directly from spinning mills. It
may be classified either as mill made yarn or hand-spun yarn and either dyed
yarn or undyed yarn. If the yarn is undyed it has to be processed before it goes
to warp and weft- The counts of yarn used for weaving may differ from cloth to
cloth and the size of the cloth is based on the reeds of loom.

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 The warp and weft yarn may be obtained either from dyed yarn or from

undyed yarn. If it is undyed, it has to be dyed locally. In the non co-operative

sector, few master weavers have dye-houses within their own establishment.

The independent master weavers make dyeing process from the local dye-

houses. But, in the case of co-operative sector, a few active co-operative

societies have their own dye-houses. Most of the co-operative societies make

dyeing yarn either from cooperative dye-houses or from government approved

dye-houses.

Dye houses are run by different classes of people who specialize in it.

The cost and the process of dyeing are based on the weight of yarn and dye &

chemicals used. The dyeing process is based on a specific temperature. The

quantity of colour powder depends upon the types of colour, shade and effect

on yarn. There are two types of dyeing-direct colour dyeing and fast mixing

colour dyeing. Dark shade needs high percentage of colour and light shade

needs low percentage of colour.

The third stage covers loosening, twisting, rewinding and warping of the
yarn. Loosening and twisting are based on the counts of yarn; rewinding of
yarn is done on reels and hands. Rewinding is done in the case of weft yarn or
breadth wise yarn. This is done with the help of charka wheels by women and
children workers. Wages are paid on piece rate basis and the rate of wage
varies according to counts and weight of yarn. After rewinding, the yarn has to
be warped. The warp yarn is usually wrapped on round wooden frame. The
processes of loosening, twisting, rewinding and warping are usually done by
the family members of the co-operative weavers in the co-operative sector and
by job workers in the non-co-operative sector.

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 Dressing and sizing are usually done at the time of dyeing and repeated

after warping. Before sizing, it is to be noted that in the case of fine varieties,

the warp yarn is. dropped into a solution made up of boiled rice gruel and

coconut oil and is squeezed and stretched. Then, the warp is given a dressing

by stretching it in the open street. For this purpose, cross-wise bamboo rods are

used. Dust and dirt are removed from the threads and finally the broken ends of

the threads are joined. After these processes, the warp is removed from one end

of the bamboo and is wound on a hank till it reaches the other end. Now, the

new warp is ready for the next process of piecing.

The above said processes of dressing and sizing are practiced in open

space only to the fine varieties of sarees but in the case of coarse varieties these

processes are completed within the factory itself by job workers. The usual

charges for these works are based on the various counts of yarn and the length

of the warp. In the case of sarees, the warp length will be 50 metres and in the

case of towels, lungies and dhoties, it will be 250 metres.

Piecing refers to the joining of the thread ends of the old warp with the

thread ends of the new warp. Each loom contains at least one set of reed and

one set of healds. The numbers of reeds and healds depends upon the thickness

of the cloth. The thinner thread needs more reeds and healds and vice versa.

There are two sizes of reeds, one is 60" width (for dhoty and saree) and the

other is 36"width (for towel and shirting cloth). The new warp which joins with

the old warp by means of piecing is again stretched in the street in the case of

the fine varieties. The wage rates for this work is usually fixed based on the

sizes of reeds, length of warp and design of the cloth.

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 After piecing, warp yarn is divided by many segments and is fixed into

the loom. One end of it is fixed to the cloth beam and the other end to warp

beam. The distance of the cloth beam and warp beam may depend upon the

length of the cloth weaving. For a normal six-yards saree, the warp has a

distance of 12 feet and for towels, dhoties etc., the distance will be 6 to 8 feet

between the cloth and warp beam.

The ordinary check and straight line designs are prepared by the

segments of warp and weft yarn. In the case of flowers and curve designs, the

handloom designers used jacquard punch card methods. The jacquard box

includes design cards with hooks. The number of hooks differ from cloth

design to design. Turkish towels, half and full jacquard towels of the coarse

varieties and putta border and petni designs on pure and art silk sarees of fine

varieties are usually woven by the jacquard looms. Wage will normally be

more for these complex nature of weaving. The weavers are usually getting

wage for their work on the basis of the variety and length of the cloth.

The above cited preliminary production processes including weaving of

handloom cloth are almost similar in various sectors of handloom industry.

However, one can obviously notice the existing variation among the other

factors of production viz. capital, fixed and variable costs, wage structure,

types of employment, quality and quantity of goods associated with the

production of cloth in this small industry. These basic economic variables,

particularly relating to production arid marketing aspects of the handloom

industry vary with different organizational structures and administrative

functions.

101
 The handloom industry, which is an important segment of textile
industry has a very long history spanning over several centuries. Today, in
India hand-loom industry holds a prime place for three obvious reasons viz.,

1) It provides the largest employment among the traditional industries, next

only to agriculture. 2) Handlooms have maintained one-fourth share (23
percent ) of total textile production in the country and 3) The textile industry,
including handlooms, is a major foreign exchange earner of the country. It
earns more than 35 percent of the total exports revenue made in our country.

There are many advocates among the Indian population, who support
the cause of handlooms for various reasons including ideology, philosophy,
sheer love for handloom products, economic arguments, etc. Irrespective of the
policies, projects and aspirations arising out of various quarters, hand-loom
sector is undergoing changes which are impacting on the livelihoods of the
handloom weavers. Some of the factors are internal and some are external
related to the growth of modem textile sector.

Features of Handloom Sector

Handloom sector is an important cottage industry in India and is a very

old profession. Handloom weavers are known for their knowledge, innovation
and brilliance in designs. Weaving is now considered almost an art. Handloom
sector continues to employ large number of people in rural, semi-urban and
urban areas of India. There are nearly 3.8 million handlooms in India giving
direct employment to about 3.5 million people in various pre-and post loom
process. In some states such as Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat, Rajasthan, North
Eastern States, Madhya Pradesh, Orissa, West Bengal, this sector is visibly
large and dominant in certain categories of clothing.

102
 Handloom method of cloth production is also environment friendly and

would be supportive of sustainable development policies aimed at reduction of

negative impacts on environment and ecology. Handloom sector is an

important channel for balanced economic growth.

Market for handloom products is still large and wide. There is good

domestic market as well as international market. There are die-hard consumers

who would support handloom products for every reason they can hold onto.

There are estimated 32 other sectors which are dependent on handloom

production. In various ways, including transportation, financial services,

marketing services, service and maintenance services, hotels, etc. Many

handloom centers are well known tourist spots, drawing visitors from far places

of India and foreign countries as well. Thus part of the tourism industry's

fortune is also influenced by handloom sector and its fame.

Handloom sector has umbilical linkage with cotton farmers and rural

farm economy. Agricultural labour gets employment in handloom sector in

non-agricultural seasons.

Handloom sector has self-sustaining mechanisms, including training for

young weavers, irrespective of gender. The inheritance of skills, resources and

capacities is beyond the realm and reach of any modern training and

educational institution. It is a facilitation process, which is not dependent on the

government and or any modem formal institution. There is also sufficient

flexibility for all types of communities to take up handloom production as a

profession.

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 Handloom sector is part of the culture and ethos of India and its glorious

past. It has emotional bondage with nationalism and the champions of

nationhood. It has a principal role in public opium formation during the inde-

pendence struggle against the imported' goods and imposed' industrialization.

Handloom production has significant contribution to the national GDP

and export earnings. Thus it has some influence over the foreign exchange

levels and the wellbeing of the economy.

PROBLEMS OF HANDLOOM INDUSTRY

Handloom sector is organized in three predominant forms of production

independent weavers, cooperative systems and wage weavers. The most

prevalent system is the wage weavers. Presently, most of these wage weavers

work at home. Their work ranges from pre-loom processing to mere wearing,

at different places. In any case, wages are decided as per the wearing and the

skill involved in such wearing. Independent weavers are rarely seen. This is

primarily because of the access and availability of raw materials and produc-

tion investment.

There are many issues of handloom production, which have been

lingering for the past several years, some even for the past hundred years.

There has been no coordinated application to address these issues. They are

likely to continue for the next ten years, with implications on production and

thus the sustenance of handloom sector32.

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1. Raw Material Supply

Access to raw material such as yarn, dyes and stuffs has been a real

problem. With increasing cotton and cotton yearn exports, yarn prices are

steadily increasing. The availability of hank yarn the basic material from which

hand-loom wearing is done - is a serious issue because it is controlled by

modern spinning mills, who see more profit in large volume cane yarn.

Secondly, since hand yarn is tax free and has subsidies, enormous

amounts are diverted to the powerloom and mill sectors. As a result, there is a

perennial shortage of yarn for the weavers. Despite a few schemes, hank yarn

access issue has not been resolved. Colours are expensive, and presently there

is no system or mechanism to increase their availability.

Handloom primarily uses natural fibers such as cotton, silk and jute.

Prices of these fibers have been increasing during production and processing.

Cotton production in India is expensive because of intensive and high usage of

costly agricultural inputs such as pesticides and fertilizers. Secondly, while the

fiber production most often happen in the vicinity of the weavers, their

processing is done in distant areas and as such the prices to the weaver are

higher, with the central government new encouraging primary fiber and yarn

exports, hand-loom weavers would be on the last priority for yarn suppliers.

2. Infrastructure and Investment

Hand-loom production is largely facilitated by private investment from

master weavers, entrepreneurs and money lenders. The costs of such private in-

vestment have been very high, though the transaction costs are low. In recent

105
years, the investment profile In hand-loom sector has also been changing.

Traditional investors known as master weavers - who had been investing for

several decades in handloom production have been moving away or have

become reluctant to invest in new designs. There is also trend of diverting the

capital accumulation to other businesses by the master weavers. Thus there is a

change in characteristics of the production capital investment in handloom

sector. There is no investment in sectoral growth. Common facilities have not

been developed such as godowns, credit facilities (banks in the vicinity), roads,

proper sanitation, etc. have not been provided anywhere.

3. Responding to Market Needs

While there are suggestions that handloom sector should increase its

design in response to changes in the market, the bottlenecks are many. The lack

of change is not due to the weaver not being amenable to change, as is bandied.

Rather it is due to unwillingness of the investor to take risks and provide

incentive to weavers for effecting the change. This apart, government has been

providing substantial grants to the National Institute of Fashion Technology

(NIFT) to provide design support to handloom co-operatives, but nothing much

has come out of it.

Handloom designs are not protected As a result, investors are not

interested lest they end up with the risk and those who copy the benefits.

Production options include development of handloom / silk / jute marks and

registration under Geographical Indications Act. Given the Indian scenario of

governance and business cultures, protection for hand-loom designs is

impossible.

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4. Co-operative System

While cooperatives do help in maximizing the benefits for weavers in

the entire chain of production, their present condition is a cause of concern.
The handloom cooperative system is middled with corruption and political
inference. Many handloom weavers are not members of these co-operatives,
government departments have to stop using them as primary sources for
routing government funds and schemes. Cooperatives have to become
independent with district level government officers dishening the tasks of
management and decision making.

5. Women

Women constitute a major workforce in the handloom sector. Almost

most of the handloom products are meant for women. However their working,
living and wage conditions need to be improved. They need to be empowered
in various ways. Almost all the government schemes, projects and programmes
on handloom sector have been and continue to bypass this major workforce
through various means. They do not have identity cards, which are the principal
means through which government welfare measures are sought to be
implemented.

6. Wages, Employment and Livelihood Issues

Wages have not increased in the last 15 years. Some sections of

handloom weavers are living in hand to mouth conditions, with not house or
assets. With emphasis on labour reforms, growth in work sheds and
competition, wages may not increase. As a result, the living and working
conditions would continue to dismal. Poverty would drive people to hang on
despite low wages. This is a black scenario on livelihood and working
conditions

107
PROSPECTS OF HANDLOOM INDUSTRY

Handloom sector is a mature industries. Changes in mature industries

tends to be evolutionary rather than revolutionary in nature, but also tends to be

resisted. Rapid adjustment does not easily occur. The other sub-textile sectors

in comparison are more recent although not necessarily less resistant to change.

The main drivers of change in the handloom sector, for better or worse, would

be the following:

1. Focus areas of Handloom Production and Products

Significant production in handloom sector caters to the needs of women

and the products are pre-dominantly sarees, dhotis and other traditional fabrics.

While there is still a huge market for these products, the competition in these

and the changing life styles would necessitate the handloom sector to change

its products and broaden its consumer profile from particular segments to

almost all segments. The ability of the handloom clusters to change has to be

enhanced and this is where the future lies.

Consumer base of the handloom sector has to widen to include products

for young and old, men and women, class and the mass, high cost to the

cheapest, intricate design to plain fabric and low production investment to high

production investment. The response of the handloom sector to change in the

last fifteen years has been very encouraging. Government has to encourage any

positive change in the sector, which sustains the character and employment of

handloom production.

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2. Skills, Training and Lifelong Learning

Handloom skills have been passed down the generations through the

engagement of the family. Sharing of skills, knowledge and design has been the

strength of the handloom profession while the proprietary behaviour among

handloom weavers is rare, modern markets and competition is forcing the trend

for proprietary rights as the factor for achievements in the markets.

Formal research institutions like Weaver Service Centers and Institutes

of Handloom Technology have failed in supporting the handloom sector

through effective research into the strengths and needs of the sector. Most

graduates of their institutions are employed in powerloom and mill sector, than

by handloom sector. However the growth and sustenance of sharing of skills,

training and lifelong learning depend on the ability of the handloom sector to

regain its glory and structure.

3. Markets

Despite of export boom, the Indian textile industry is primarily oriented

to domestic markets. The large domestic market and rapidly rising domestic in-

comes therefore open important market opportunities for the textile industry.

But there is uneven competition, with mill and powerloom sector getting

subsidies in various forms. It is also that, power-looms have been undermining

hand-loom markets by selling their products as handloom.

Handloom sector has been a consistent source of textile exports from

India, and has been the only sector which has successfully presented cheaper

textile imports coming into India. Handloom sector has been catering fully to

109
the domestic needs and also value added exports in the international markets. It

is time that the government of India recognized the strengths of its own textile

sector, and work upon further strengthening of this sector by undertaking

appropriate policy measures. Indian textile sector is likely to be balanced by the

bulwark of handloom production and would be able to remain competitive in

the international markets only through the growth and vibrancy of handloom

production.

4. Globalization

For the first time after almost four decades, with the elimination of

important quotas on 1st June 2005 pursuant to WTO rules, Indian textile and

clothing sector will be subject to the same trade and important rules as any

other industrial sector. So it is the responsibility of the handloom sector to meet

the challenges and at the same time the government has to establish favourable

framework of conditions in which handloom, like other sectors, can develop

and enjoy the opportunities to compete, domestically and internationally on the

basis of equity.

It is important to assess the implications of WTO related textile and

clothing trade agreements on the handloom sector. There is need to educate the

handloom weavers on what these provisions are, and how the application of the

same would benefit or affect them negatively.

In any case, It is obvious that interests of the handloom sector have not

been integrate into the national trade negotiating positions. Infact, none is

aware of the governments position on handloom sector. Everybody agrees that

it is not easy to analyse market access barriers, influence international

110
standards or trace the impact of multilateral negotiations on exporters in

handlooms. This becomes much more difficult when the government want to

internationally keep out the handloom sector, as part of restructuring the Indian

textile sector. Interests of crores of handloom weavers are being ignored.

In the era of economic liberalization and globalization, the current

thinking is market competition is the best, and all subsidies are wrong. In the

case of handloom sector, policy benefits offered on paper are being withdrawn,

while tax reliefs and subsidies are being offered to the powerloom and mill

sectors in the name of encouragement to exports. Presently handloom weavers

are facing livelihood crisis because of adverse government policies,

globalization and changing socioeconomic conditions.

There is a future for handloom sector in India beyond 2015 for different

reasons. However, the living and working conditions for handloom weavers is

likely to decline, unless there are specific interventions. The strength of the

handloom sector is its large and skilled labour. This is also the strength of the

Indian textile sector. One needs to enhance this strength and address factors

that weaken this strength.

It is time that government recognized the value of the handloom sector

in achieving sustainable development of the country. On its own, government

would never be able to provide employment to such a large workforce. Going

by the logic of liberalization, government inturn ought to formulate, promote

and encourage policies which sustain this employment, and cant work to its

detriment. Despite adverse conditions due to larger support from the consumers

and being a livelihood option for millions of weavers, handloom sector has

111
been surviving, and has the potential to be so. Government has to ensure a level

playing field' for this sector towards healthy competition among the different

sub-sectors of the textile industry.

IMPLICATIONS OF ECONOMIC REFORMS POLICIES

Handloom sector's unique feature is its ability to provide employment to

a large number of persons with far less average capital employed per worker
compared to the other sectors of the textile industry namely power looms and
mills. This is possible because the traditional handloom weavers use their
simple pit and horizontal looms kept in their house-cum-shed as tools of
production and this makes handloom sector one of the principal sources of
employment in rural areas.

Since employment generation is a prime goal of any development

strategy. In the past, whenever the handloom sector, faced tough times, the
government responded positively and rescued them by undertaking various
efforts, which aimed at protecting and promoting this economically significant
handloom sector with huge employment potentiality. These efforts took many
forms.

In 1964-65, the government imposed a freeze on loomage in the mill

sector. Mills were also required to deliver specified quantities of yarn in hank
format at pre-specified prices and differential duties were also imposed on
handloom and other textile products that favoured the former. In 1985, the
Handloom (Reservation) Act was introduced which reserved 22 variety for
exclusive production and marketing by the decentralized sector, particularly
handloom sector. Further, a subsidy in the form of rebates on sales of
handloom products were offered during specified periods, to help keep down
the prices of handloom products.

112
 But, the advent of liberalization during 1980s and its acceleration since

1991 coupled with major changes in the global trade arena like WTO

agreement, Multi-Fiber agreement, etc., changed the attitudes and priorities of

the Government vis-à-vis the handloom sector. The successive liberal

economic reformist policies gradually and in a systematic manner marginalized

the handloom sector and worsened the plight of the weavers. Specifically

speaking, the textile policy of 1985, which specifically concerned with

expanding textile production, made a significant departure from the past by

according high priority to productivity of textile industry in general,

overlooking the employment potentiality of handloom sector. Productivity was

sought to be increased in various processes of textile production, ignoring the

relative strength and inherent ability of the different sectors of textile industry.

Consequently, the handloom sector began to loose safeguards and privilege

hitherto enjoyed by the industry with regards to growth was estimated at 11.7

percent per annum and over five lakh unauthorized power looms were

regularized in 1985, leading to a current situation where the handloom sector is

facing an aggressive and unbridled competition from the much superior power

looms.

Further, the emphasis on free exports as part of new economic policy of

1991 came as a major blow to the handloom sector. In order to augment foreign

exchange reserves and strengthen the precarious balance of payment position,

the then Government allowed an indiscriminate export of various counts of

yarn and cotton, with adverse implication for the domestic availability and the

prices of cotton yarn and this resulted in the steep and unprecedented rise in the

prices of yarn and cotton. No sooner than this policy was announced, the yarn

113
export increased from 94.68 million kilograms in 1990-91 to 110.99 million

kilo grams in 1991-92 of which 86.8 percent was low count hank yarn

primarily used for production by handlooms. Though there was a Continuous

scarcity for yarn in the domestic market, there has been no let up in the export

of yarn and it was 554.95 million kilogram in 1999-2000 as against 262.78

million kilograms in 1995-96, registering a growth of 53% between these

periods.

In 1996, the Government amended the Handloom (Reservation) Act,

1985 (implemented duly in 1993 due to litigation) and shortened the list by half

to 11 varieties. During this period, the Central Government withdrew fiscal

incentives such as excise duty exemption for handlooms at the fabric stage and

duty exemption for hank yarn on the advice of the Expert Committee on

Textile Policy headed by S.R. Sathyarn. The Committee also recommended the

complete removal of Handloom (Reservation) Act of 1985.

Finally, in the year 2000, the Government introduced another textile

policy with the objective of readying the textile industries to cope up with the

competition in the international market. To achieve this target, the policy seeks

to dereserve the garment-making from the labour intensive small scale sector

and throws it open to the capital and technology-intensive national and global

investors. But the policy hardly makes any mention about the future of

traditional handloom weavers. The policy is also silent on the ways and means

of strengthening handloom co-operative societies and small and independent

weavers.

114
 The successive policies have precipitated the problems of handloom
sector and left the industry in tatters. For instance, on one hand, the persistence
of high and rising price level of cotton yarn and the unbridled competition from
power-looms and mills have pushed the handloom sector to the wall and on the
other hand, in the absence of timely and adequate support from the
Government, the handlooms were forced to squeeze the wage levels as; part of
a strategy of economic survival. But even here the handlooms do not have
much room for tactical decision as the wage levels were already below the
subsistence levels.

The cumulative effect of the aforesaid developments was that

handlooms are today losing out badly to power looms and mill sector and
lurching one to another crisis and caught vicious cycle of lack of demand,
piling stocks, mounting losses, raising unemployment and the resultant poverty.

This study shows that the handloom industry is in dire-straits and needs
the immediate attention of the Government. In fact it is the time for the
Government to act decisively, at once, to save the\ lives and the future of lakhs
of people for whom weaving is the only source of livelihood. The Government
supports to the handloom sector needs to be regarded as a social security net
provided to "an economically vital industrial sector, based predominantly in
rural areas of the country. It is in fact the social responsibility of the state
authorities to protect and preserve the ailing handloom sector.

HANDLOOM EXPORT SCHEME

The importance of the handloom sector in the national economy is well

recognized. On account of having the advantage of flexibility of production in
small batches, uniqueness, constant scope for innovation, eco friendliness,

115
adaptability and, above all, the element of rich artistry, this sector has the
potential to contribute towards export earnings in a big way. Therefore, export
of handloom products has been identified as a "Thrust Area" for the overall
development of the sector. The Government is exploring the possibility of
making optimal use of the resources to enhance production capabilities of
exportable handloom products.

To give impetus to the export of handloom fabrics, made-ups and other

handloom items, a scheme for Development of Exportable Products and their

Marketing (DEPM), was introduced in 1996-97 (October 1996), and it operated

till 31.03.2002. During the 10 Five Year the scheme is continuing as

"Handloom Export Scheme", and it covers development of exportable products,

publicity of the products and the international marketing thereof.

The financial assistance under the scheme is extended to the eligible

National and State Level Handloom Corporations, Apex Cooperative Societies

and Primary Handloom Weavers Cooperative Societies. Private Handloom

Exporters are also assisted under the Scheme only through Handloom Export

Promotion Council (HEPC).

The Handloom Export Promotion Council, registered under the

Companies Act, 1956, was constituted in 1965 by the Government of India as

the nodal agency for export promotion efforts related to the cotton handloom

textiles. The Handloom Export Promotion Council provides a wide range of

services:

116
 1. Dissemination of trade information & intelligence;
2. Publicity abroad for Indian handloom products;
3. Organisation of business missions/ buyer seller meets and
participation in International trade events;
4. Consultancy and guidance services for handloom exporters;

5. Liaison with the Government of India on all procedural and policy

matters relevant to the handloom export trade;

6. Dealing with trade complaints pertaining to handloom exports;

7. Liaison with the commercial agencies abroad for augmentation of

handloom exports;

8. Facilitating product diversification and adaptation to meet modern

market requirements;

9. Providing impetus to modernisation of handlooms for the export

market; and

10. Provision of design inputs to promote export of handloom products.

11. The Indian cotton handloom fabrics and made-ups occupy a place of

eminence in the markets of USA, UK, Germany, France, Sweden,

Belgium, the Netherlands, Japan and Australia. The main items

exported belong to the segment of home furnishing, which

constitutes about 90% of our total handloom exports.

MARKETING PROMOTION PROGRAMME

To provide marketing support to handloom agencies and the individual

weavers, the Office of the Development Commissioner (Handlooms) assists the

state Government in organizing National Handloom Expos/Special Expos,

117
District Level Events, Craft Melas etc. in different parts of the country. For this

purpose, financial support is provided to the implementing agency as

recommended by the State Government towards infrastructure, publicity etc.

These activities are supportive to the handloom agencies, weavers and also the

consumers as it provides them an opportunity to purchase handloom products

of various under one roof states.

RECAPITULATION

This chapter has presented the status of handloom industry India as well
as in Tamil Nadu. It has also presented the governmental measures to promotion
of handloom industry in the study areas.

118
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