Sewing gauge

• A small ruler with a sliding guide and is about six inches long. This gauge is used for
measurements at hem lines, button holes and areas where other small measurements require
checking, such as pleats and tucks. The gauge is usually made of metal or plastic.

Rulers

• A ruler is measuring 12 inches or even 18 inches, either clear or solid. It is a useful tool to have
for measuring and drawing straight seam lines and cutting lines. It also aids in connecting lines. A
clear ruler is also a good tool for marking buttonholes.

Yardstick

• A yardstick is made of smooth, shellacked hardwood or metal. It is used for marking hemlines
and checking grainlines when laying out the pattern.

L-square

• The tailor square or "L" is used to transfer measurements to the draft pattern. It also divides the
garment into the desired measurement. It has perfect squares and is useful in making straight
lines and numbers. It can also function as a tape measure. It has two arms connected
perpendicularly.

• A.The longer arm is twenty-four (24) inches long.

• B. The shorter arm is fourteen (14) inches long.

• French curve

• This is used to shape the depth of the neckhole and armhole of the pattern

CUTTING TOOLS

Cutting tools are instruments that serve well if properly maintained. Sharp cutting tools make clean
cuts and well-defined notches and they do not damage fabric.

• On the other hand, dull tools slow the cutting process, and make your hand and wrist tire easily.
Sewing cutting tools should not be used for other household task. Cutting tools must be
sharpened regularly and the joints are oiled occasionally for better use.

Bent-handled dressmaker’s shears

• These are made of quality steel and hold a sharp cutting edge. The blades move easily and cut
smoothly along the entire length and the points should come together. Shears have the length of
7- 12 inches and are satisfactory for most apparel fabrics.

• A. All steels, chrome-plated shears are for heavy duty cutting

C. A serrated edge shears give maximum cutting control and is used for synthetic fibers and slippery
knits

Pinking shears

• This is popular in zigzagging or scalloped edge or for seam finishes. This is used to finish seams
and raw edges and to create decorative edges on many types of fabric. It cuts a ravel-resistant
edge. This is not satisfactory for straight cutting.

Cutting scissors

A. Trimming scissors

• It is 3-4 inches long. It is used for trimmings, clipping threads and snipping slashes.

B. Embroidery scissors

• It has 4-5 inches finely tapered blades. Both points are sharp for use in working with fine details
in delicate fabrics and in embroidery work.

C. Buttonhole scissors

• This is intended for making buttonholes.

Thread clippers

• Thread clippers are a handy little spring loaded cutting tool that allows for the snipping of
threads. These clippers are specifically used to snip threads and they are not designed to cut
fabric.

Seam ripper

• Seam rippers are specifically designed for ripping out stitches from seams, either as a result of an
error or during alterations. They should be used carefully to prevent damage to the fabric.

Rotary cutter and mat

• It is an adaptation of the giant rotary cutter used by the garment industry. It works like a pizza
cutter and can be used by left or right-handed sewers. The rotary cutter is available in different
sizes with different blades. When using a rotary cutter, work on a cutting mat to protect the
blade and the cutting surface.

MARKING TOOLS

Marking tools are required for transferring pattern markings to garment fabric pieces and for making
alterations on garments.
 Chalk pencils/dressmaker pencil

• This is available in white or pastel shades. This chalk pencil is used to make fine lines on fabric. It
has an erasing brush at one end.

Liquid marking pen

• Liquid marking pens come in two types. There is one that washes out and one that fades after 48
hours. Those that wash out should not be used on fabric that show water marks. The mark
should be removed before pressing the fabric.

Tailor’s chalk

• This is essential as a marker for use on materials. Tailor‘s chalk is available in a range of colors
and is removed by brushing.

Wax chalk

• This is available in black or white and is used for woolen fabrics. Wax can be removed by
pressing.

Tracing wheel

• There are two types of tracing wheels, those with a serrated edge and those with a smooth
edge. The serrated edge wheel produces dots on the fabric and is suitable for most types of
fabrics. The smooth edge wheel is best for delicate fabrics and unlike the serrated edge will not
pierce more delicate fabrics. The smooth edge wheel creates a solid line.

Dressmaker’s carbon paper

• Dressmaker‘s carbon paper also called dressmaker‘s tracing paper is a specially waxed carbon
paper that transfers the tracing wheel‘s markings to the fabric. A color of tracing paper should be
chosen that is close to the color of the fabric. Different brands of tracing paper have different
instructions; therefore, the instructions for the particular brand that is purchased should be
followed.

PINNING AND SEWING TOOLS

Pincushion

A pincushion holds the straight pins and needles while working to prevent accidents

• Hand needle

Used in making temporary stitches and buttonholes. Sizes of 7 to 10 are for general hand sewing.
Sewing needle threader

• It aids in putting the thread to the needle. It consists of two parts. The handle and the wire. The
end of the wire that is away from the holder is folded. Place the folded wire of the needle
threader through the eye of the sewing needle.

Thimble

• A small hard pitted cup worn for protection on the finger that pushes the needle in sewing.

Fabric

• The fabric is the cloth used in making garments. The plain cotton fabrics, flour sack or catcha is
the most appropriate material for beginners because these are very easy to handle.

Thread

• The thread is used in assembling or constructing the parts of the garment. Threads vary in sizes.
Heavy fabrics need stronger threads. Threads should have the same color with that of the fabric
used.

TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE

Well-selected sewing machine is essential for achieving good results. It should be used correctly in
accordance with the job requirements.

Lockstitch sewing machine. This is usually used in homes and sometimes in school. This is also called
domestic sewing machine. It is run by foot and may also be converted to electric power machine.

Hi-speed lockstitch sewing machine. This is sometimes called straight stitching machine or
industrial sewing machine. It has automatic lubrication and is used by tailors and dressmakers.

Over edging machine. Other companies call it small machine. It finishes the raw edges of the
pattern for construction.

Embroidery machine. This is used in making fancy stitches and in making different kinds of
embroidery stitches on fabrics for the barong tagalog, pillow cases, linen, and other novelty items.

Button holer machine. This is used in making buttonholes on garments.

Button attachment machine. This is used in attaching buttons to the garments.

Double needle machine. This is used in the construction of the different kinds of clothing especially
for the inseam, outseam and sideseam.

Bartacking machine. This is used in reinforcing the opening and closing of pockets.
Two Major Parts of the Lockstitch Sewing Machine

The two major parts of the lock stitch sewing machine are the upper and lower parts.

The upper part is composed of:

1. Head is the complete sewing machine without a cabinet or stand.

2. Arm is the curve part of the head containing mechanism for operating the needle.

3. Bed is the flat portion of the machine and beneath is the feed dog where it is mounted, and the
shuttle and lower thread are placed.

Parts of the Sewing Machine in the Arm

1. Spool pin is the thread holder.

2. Thread guide keeps the thread in position.

3. Thread take up lever releases the thread and interlocks with the bobbin thread.

4. Presser bar lifter moves the presser foot.

5. Tension controls the looseness and tightness of stitches.

6. Needle bar holds the needle in place.

7. Needle clamp holds and tightens the needle.

8. Presser foot holds the fabric in place while sewing.

9. Needle is a slender tool attached in the needle clamp used for sewing.

10. Bobbin winder controls the bobbin while winding thread.

11. Stitch regulator checks the length of the stitches.

12. Balance wheel sets the mechanism in motion.

13. Belt connects the balance wheel to the drive wheel.

14. Stop motion screw hinders moving when loosened and starts

Parts of Sewing Machine under the Bed

1. Feed dog moves the fabric while sewing.

2. Throat plate is the windows of the feed dog and it is where the bobbin threads come out.

3. Slide plate is a movable plate that covers the shuttle and bobbin case.
4. Shuttle holds the bobbin case while sewing.

5. Bobbin is a metal spool for winding thread.

6. Bobbin case holds the bobbin.

The Lower Parts of the Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

The lower parts of the sewing machine are the cabinet and the stand. The cabinet has drawers and
screw on the hinges for the attachment of the head. The following are the lower parts of the sewing
machine and their uses:

1. Band wheel leads the balance wheel through the belt connection.

2. Band wheel crank moves the band wheel.

3. Pitman rod holds the treadle to band wheel crank.

4. Belt guide holds the belt to its place.

The Lower Parts of the Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

5. Belt shifter removes the belt from the wheel.

6. Dress guard protects the dress from the wheel.

7. Treadle is where the feet are stationed to drive the band wheel through the pitman rod.

8. Legs support the cabinet of the machine.

9. Cabinet holds the head of the machine by interlocking screw on the hinges.