APPLICATION REPORT

QUALITY MANAGEMENT

The standardization of quality

characteristics in the textile
supply chain

THE STANDARD FROM FIBER TO FABRIC

R. Furter
October 2009
SE 634
THE STANDARD FROM FIBER TO FABRIC

Copyright 2009 by Uster Technologies AG

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a re-
trieval system, translated or transmitted in any form or by any means, electroni-
cally, mechanically, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permis-
sion in writing of the copyright owner.

veronesi\TT\Schulung_Dokumente\QualityManagement\SE-634_The standardization of quality characteristics in the textile supply chain

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Contents

1 Introduction ................................................................................ 5

2 Standardization of cotton fibers ............................................... 5

2.1 Standardization of cotton fiber characteristics in cotton producing
countries....................................................................................... 5
2.2 Standardization of fiber testing in spinning mills .......................... 7
2.3 Basics of Fiber Quality Profiles .................................................... 9

3 Standardization of yarn quality characteristics .................... 11

3.1 Standardization of the yarn quality characteristics in spinning
mills ............................................................................................ 11
3.2 Basics of yarn quality profiles..................................................... 12

4 Conclusion................................................................................ 15

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1 Introduction
Textile specialists and managers may have noticed that there was a signifi-
cant evolution in textile measuring technology in the past four decades,
particularly in the area of cotton classification and yarn testing because in
these two domains modern sensor technology and sophisticated scientific
methods can be applied. As a result, cotton of various growth areas as well
as all kinds of yarns can be compared easily because accurate figures are
available. This will lead to a standardization in the textile industry.

2 Standardization of cotton fibers

2.1 Standardization of cotton fiber characteristics in cotton
producing countries

For a long period cotton was tested visually, mostly by certified classers,
because accurate electronic systems were not available. But the only qual-
ity parameter which certified classers could determine with a reasonable
accuracy was the fiber length. Many additional quality characteristics which
are nowadays also important such as the short fiber content, the fiber
strength and elongation, the maturity, the number of neps, the number of
dust and trash particles, could not be determined or had to be determined
with time-consuming manual instruments.

Therefore, the United States Department of Agriculture already started a

cooperation with the local electronics industry in 1968 to replace the certi-
fied classer by an electronic system. After an intensive development period
the measuring system was available for large scale testing of cotton bales
in the US cotton belt.

A strong motivation for accurate electronic testing systems were correct

incentives to farmers for the obtained fiber quality, better sales criteria for
cotton trading and the superiority of the US cotton trading system.

Other cotton producing countries followed. In 1999 similar classing offices

were available for cotton testing in Uzbekistan. Subsequently, additional
classing offices for cotton fibers were also installed in Australia, Brazil, In-
dia, Zimbabwe, Greece, Turkmenistan, Malawi, Mexico and Tadzhikistan.

The China Fiber Inspection Bureau CFIB has also to installed such High
Volume Testing Systems in various locations. By 2010 the classing offices
in China will be completed. Table 1 and Table 2 show the replacement of
the human classer by Uster Fiber Testing Systems and the percentage of
electronically tested bales worldwide.

Table 2 also shows the amount of cotton which is tested with USTER® HVI
Systems in 14 cotton producing countries in 2010.

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Year Country
1968 USA USDA starts to replace visual fiber inspection by automatic testing
1988 USA USDA classification system complete
1999 Uzbekistan Classification system in Uzbekistan complete
2001 Brazil Part of cotton fiber production classified with HVI systems
2002 Australia Classification system in Australia complete
2004 India (Maharashtra) Part of cotton fiber production classified with HVI systems
2005 Zimbabwe Part of cotton fiber production classified with HVI systems
2006 Turkmenistan Part of cotton fiber production classified
2006 Malawi Part of cotton fiber production classified
2007 Mexico Part of cotton fiber production classified
2007 Pakistan Part of cotton fiber production classified
2008 Kazakhstan Part of cotton fiber production classified
2008 Greece Classification system in Greece complete
2010 China Classification system in China complete
2010 Tadzhikistan Part of cotton fiber production classified with HVI systems

Table 1 History of classing offices for cotton fibers

Country Cotton measured with USTER® HVI Percentage of electronically tested

in 2010 * bales worldwide **
USA 4,0 mn tons 17,2%
Uzbekistan 1,2 mn tons 5,2%
Brazil 0,2 mn tons 0,8%
Australia 0,4 mn tons 1,7%
India (Maharashtra) 0,1 mn tons 0,4%
Zimbabwe 0,1 mn tons 0,4%
Turkmenistan 0,06 mn tons 0,2%
Malawi 0,03 mn tons 0,1%
Mexico 0,03 mn tons 0,1%
Pakistan 0,2 mn tons 0,8%
Kazakhstan 0,1 mn tons 0,4%
Greece 0,3 mn tons 1,3%
China 7,1 mn tons 30,1%
Tadzhikistan 0,3 mn tons 1,3%
Total 14,1 mn tons 59,7%

Table 2 Percentage of HVI tested cotton per country and worldwide

* One USTER® HVI System is used for the classification of 14’000 to 35’000
metric tons of cotton, depending on the number of shifts, the throughput rate of
the HVI Systems and the duration of cotton classing per year.
** Estimation for 2010: Total cotton production worldwide 23,6 mn tons
(Source: ICAC, September 8, 2009, Plenary Meeting, Cape Town, South Af-
rica)

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With the USTER® HVI Systems a standardization of the cotton fiber pa-
rameters took place. As a result, the fiber parameters of cotton of various
growth areas can be compared throughout the world.

2.2 Standardization of fiber testing in spinning mills

Such USTER® HVI Systems are also used for bale lay-down in spinning
mills. With the single fiber testing system USTER® AFIS the effect of the
spinning process on cotton fiber quality parameters can be measured from
the blowroom to the roving frame (Fig. 1).

Ribbon lap Finisher Roving

Bale Blowroom Card Drawframe Comber
machine drawframe frame

Bundle fiber testing (HVI)

Entangled fibers

Single fiber testing (AFIS)

Entangled fibers Parallel fibers

Fig. 1
Measuring range of fiber
bundle and single fiber
testing system

The USTER® HVI System is able to measure entangled fibers. Therefore,

the USTER® HVI System can be used for the measurement of the cotton
quality characteristics in the bale and throughout the blowroom.

The USTER® AFIS System is able to measure entangled and parallel fi-
bers. Therefore, in can be used for process control throughout the entire
spinning process (Fig. 2).

Ring
Finisher Roving Winding
Blowroom Card Drawframe Comber spinning
drawframe frame machine
machine

Initial fiber quality, minimization of fiber deterioration

Increase or decrease of neps, reduction of short fibers, reduction of dust and trash

Maximum yield of fibers, maximum productivity, minimum raw material costs

Fig. 2
Efficiency improvement of subsequent processes,
less fabric faults, less claims Purpose of fiber testing in
spinning mills

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The USTER® AFIS System is used for the measurement of fiber damage,
the increase and reduction of neps, the reduction of short fibers, the reduc-
tion of dust and trash, etc., in each processing step. It is also used to
maximize the yield of fibers and the productivity.

In addition to this, the USTER® AFIS System serves for maintaining the
maximum yield of fibers and the highest possible production with the proc-
essed raw material.

The USTER® AFIS System is also a helpful tool to investigate efficiency

improvements of subsequent processes such as weaving and knitting and
to improve the appearance of fabrics.

With these tools as well as with cost considerations by means of Uster Cal-
culation Tools it will be possible to optimize the productivity as well as the
costs.

With the above mentioned USTER® HVI System as well as with the
USTER® AFIS System it is today possible to measure a wide variety of
quality characteristics shown in Table 3.

USTER® HVI System USTER® AFIS System

Moisture Content Neps (Count)

Micronaire Neps (Mean Size)

Maturity Fiber Neps (Count)

Upper Half Mean Length Seed Coat Neps (Count)

Mean Length Length of 5% of the longest fibers

Uniformity Index Upper Quartile Length

Short Fiber Index Mean Length

Bundle Strength Length Variation (CVL)

Bundle Elongation Fineness

Color (Reflectance Rd) Maturity Ratio

Color (Yellowness +b) Immature Fiber Content

Trash (Count) Trash (Count)

Trash (Area) Trash (Size)

Dust (Count)
Table 3
Dust (Size) Cotton quality characteristics
®
determined by USTER HVI
Visible Foreign Matter ®
and USTER AFIS System

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2.3 Basics of Fiber Quality Profiles

In order to reach the specifications for a yarn agreed upon between a

weaving/knitting and a spinning mill (Table 7 and Table 8) it is highly rec-
ommended to specify the minimum or maximum conditions for the raw ma-
terial. Otherwise it will be difficult to reach a sustainable situation in a spin-
ning mill. Fig. 3 shows the principles of a Fiber Quality Profile.

Quality characteristics
Micronaire below requirements
Fiber length
Short Fiber Index
Required quality
Uniformity Index characteristics exceeded
Maturity
Bundle Strength
Reflectance Rd
Yellowness +b
Trash (Area)
Trash (Count) Fig. 3
Neps Optimization of the fiber
quality characteristics
0% Cotton Quality Profile
50% 100% based on a Fiber Quality
defined by spinning mill
Profile

Fig. 3 shows that the raw material profile is not ideal for the yarn which has
to be produced in the spinning mill. Some of the cotton quality characteris-
tics exceed the requirements and some of the characteristics are below the
requirements. The adaptation of the raw material quality to the needs of the
yarn to be produced for a customer is a significant step towards quality
consistency and reduction of costs. Therefore, the fiber purchasing as well
as the blending in the blowroom is important. It is also obvious that in a
spinning mill with a wide variety of yarns an ideal fiber blend cannot be real-
ized, but it is highly recommended to approach the fiber quality profile as
good as possible. This is the area where most of the cost savings can be
realized.

Table 4 shows an example of a spinning mill where there was a mismatch

between the raw material requirements and the current raw material in the
warehouse of a mill. It was the intention of the mill to come closer to the
requirements for future fiber purchasing. The adaptation of the raw material
to the requirement is also a significant option to lower the costs.

Table 4 shows the ideal requirements of the fiber quality characteristics of

the cotton bales based on a Yarn Quality Profile for a weaving yarn, ring-
spun, combed, cotton 100%, count range Ne 30 to Ne 50. Enduse: shirts.
All these figures are measured with the Uster HVI Systems with neps fea-
ture.

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Fiber parameter Unit Limit Value USTER® STATISTICS

Micronaire (-) Range 3,5– 4, 25 – 75%
Fiber Length UHML mm Min 28 (1 1/8”) Reference
Uniformity Index % Min 84 60%
Short Fiber Index % Max 10 50%
Maturity % Min 85 75%
Bundle Strength cN/tex Min 26 50%
Reflectance (-) Max 76 50%
Yellowness +b (-) Max 9,2 50%
Trash (Area) % Max 0,5 30%
Trash (count) (-) Max 20 30%
Neps 1/g Max 200 25%

Table 4 Fiber Quality Profile, cotton bale, USTER® HVI values

This profile was based on an optimization process where the quality re-
quirements of the customer, the sustainability of the quality as well as the
costs played a fundamental role.

The spinning process causes various changes of the fiber quality character-
istics. The number of neps and the dust/trash particles are drastically re-
duced. The short fiber content, particularly in case of combing, is also re-
duced. If the fiber quality has to be known which finally ends in the yarn it is
advisable to measure the quality characteristics in the sliver of the finisher
drawframe.

Table 5 shows a Fiber Quality Profile for a sliver of the finisher draw-
frame. These figures have to be measured with the Uster AFIS System.
The fibers are used for a yarn of combed cotton, count range Ne 30 to Ne
50. Enduse: Shirts.

Fiber parameter Unit Limit Value USTER® STATISTICS

Upper Quartile Length mm Min 30 (1 3/16”) Reference

Short fiber content (n) % Max 10 50%

Fineness mtex Max 150 75%

Maturity (-) Min 0,90 50%

Immature Fiber Content IFC % Max 5,6 50%

Neps 1/g Max 25 40%

Dust 1/g Max 10 40%

Trash 1/g Max 2 75%

Visible Foreign Matter % Max 0,03 50%

Table 5 Fiber Quality Profile, sliver of finisher drawframe

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3 Standardization of yarn quality characteristics

3.1 Standardization of the yarn quality characteristics in
spinning mills

The standardization of the yarn quality characteristics began with the publi-
cation of the first USTER® STATISTICS in 1957 which served as bench-
marks to compare the yarn quality of various origins. The pressure for ac-
curate yarn quality characteristics was intensified in the past 10 years due
to the influence of the big retail names who had to improve the supply chain
management in order to keep the quality claims within reasonable limits.
For many spinning mills which have to supply yarns of consistent quality it
was a requirement to improve the quality, the productivity and to reduce the
costs. The tools for the determination of fiber and yarn quality characteris-
tics were used to establish a future-oriented quality management.

Table 6 shows an example of a Yarn Quality Profile with a list of parame-

ters which can be specified in detail to be sustainable.

There are also a few fiber characteristics listed in Table 6. Many yarn buy-
ers do not specify the raw material because they are of the opinion that the
spinning mill must have the degree of freedom what kind of raw material
has to be used for a specified yarn.

Test Quality parameter Test Quality parameter

Fiber quality Micronaire Yarn Hairiness
required
Length Thin places
Short fiber content Thick places
Neps Neps
Strength Strength
Yarn Deviation of count Variation of strength
Count variation Elongation
Twist variation Remaining disturbing thick and thin places
Direction of yarn twist Remaining foreign fibers
Evenness

Table 6 Quality characteristics which can be specified for a yarn

The following items have motivated yarn buyers and retailers to better
specify yarns and to establish Yarn Quality Profiles:
 For a sales agreement and for arguments in case of claims accurate figures are required to define
the yarn
 Accurate figures are also required for spinning mills in order to deliver yarns of consistent quality
 In order to use the Uster Calculation Tools to quickly compute cost improvements in spinning
mills, the managers of the mills need accurate figures to adapt the quality to the required specifi-
cations.

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3.2 Basics of yarn quality profiles

Yarn quality profiles containing a selection of quality characteristics men-

tioned in Table 6 are now well known in spinning mills. The yarn buyers are
more and more in the process to exactly specify the minimum requirements
for yarns. Such Yarn Quality Profiles are developed with the data base of
the USTER® STATISTICS as benchmarks.

For spinning mills it frequently means a reduction of manufacturing costs

because the raw material and the spinning process can be adapted to the
minimum requirements listed in the Yarn Quality Profile.

In addition to this, various reference figures are now available to monitor

and improve the productivity and the costs.

Fig. 4 shows the basics of a Yarn Quality Profile.

Count variation
Evenness
Thin places
Thick places
Neps
Hairiness
Twist
Required quality
Twist variation
characteristics exceeded
Tenacity
Tenacity variation
Quality characteristics
Elongation below requirements
Disturbing thick places
Fig. 4
Optimization of the yarn
Disturbing foreign fibers
quality characteristics
Yarn quality profile based on a yarn quality
0% 50% 100% agreed with customer
profile

The important quality characteristics of a yarn have to be defined according

to a specific yarn type and enduse (compact yarn, OE rotor yarn, air-jet
yarn, woven fabric, knitted fabric, textile or technical application, etc.).
These specifications are equivalent to the 100%-line in Fig. 4.

Fig. 4 demonstrates which quality characteristics exceed the specifications

and which characters are below the expectations.

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Table 7 represents a yarn quality profile for a weaving yarn with only a few
specified quality characteristics.

Nominal Yarn Count Nec 30/1 Uster Statistics level

Yarn Count and Twist Unit Limit
Deviation of Count % max ± 2.5
Count Variation CVcb % max 1.5 50%
Twist Multiplier alpha e - max 4.0 50%
Variation of Twist CVt % max 3.0 35%
Direction of Twist - Z
Yarn Evenness and Hairiness
Uster Evenness CVm % max 11.6 15%
Thin Places - 50% 1/km max 1 15%
Thick Places + 50% 1/km max 13 15%
Neps + 200% 1/km max 26 15%
Uster Hairiness - Range 4.0 - 5.0 5 – 60%
Yarn Strength and Elongation
Single End Strength, high speed, 400 m/min cN/tex min 21.5 25%
Strength Variation CVb, high speed, 400 m/min % max 7.5 25%
Single End Elongation, high speed, 400 m/min % min 5.8 25%

Table 7 Agreement on minimum or maximum requirements / Ring-spun yarn, cotton 100%, combed, for woven fabrics,
bobbins

All the values are either specified as maximum values (count variation,
evenness, imperfections) or minimum values (strength, elongation) or as a
range (hairiness). All the values are based on the USTER® STATISTICS as
benchmarks.

Table 8 shows a Yarn Quality Profile where minimum requirements for the
applied cotton fibers are also specified. Particularly important for some yarn
buyers are the remaining short fibers in the sliver of the finisher drawframe.

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®
Nominal Yarn Count (Nec) 28 32 36 40 USTER
Cotton Fibers Instrument Unit Limits STATISTICS
Number of neps, bale AFIS 1/g max 270 270 195 195 50%
Micronaire, bale HVI - Range 3.8 – 4.5 3.8 – 4.5 3.8 – 4.5 3.8 – 4.5
Fiber Length UHML HVI mm min 28 28 31 31 50%
Fiber Length UQL(w), bale AFIS mm min 29 29 32 32 50%
Short Fiber Content SFC(n), finisher drawframe AFIS % max 13 12 11 10 50%
Yarn Count and Twist
Deviation of Count UAS % max ± 2.5 ± 2.5 ± 2.5 ± 2.5
Count Variation CVb UAS % max 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 50%
Twist Multiplier alpha e UZT - max 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 50%
Variation of Twist CVt UZT % max 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 30%
Direction of Twist UZT - Z Z Z Z
Yarn Evenness and Hairiness
®
USTER Evenness CVm UT % max 11.5 11.9 12.2 12.5 20%
Thin Places - 40% UT 1/km max 24 40 62 91 20%
Thin Places - 50% UT 1/km max 1 1 2 2 20%
Thick Places + 35% UT 1/km max 172 213 254 294 20%
Thick Places + 50% UT 1/km max 15 18 22 25 20%
Neps +140% UT 1/km max 154 204 261 325 20%
Neps + 200% UT 1/km max 24 32 41 50 20%
®
USTER Hairiness UT - max 6.6 6.3 6.0 5.8 50%
Yarn Strength and Elongation
Single End Strength conventional, 5 m/min UTR cN/tex min 16.3 16.3 16.4 16.4 60%
Strength Variation CVb conventional, 5 m/min UTR % max 7,6 7,9 8.2 8.4 50%
Single End Elongation conventional, 5 m/min UTR % min 5.1 5.1 5.0 5.0 60%
Single End Strength high speed, 400 m/min UTJ cN/tex min 18.3 18.4 18.6 18.7 60%
Strength Variation CVb high speed, 400 m/min UTJ % max 7.9 8.2 8.5 8.7 50%
Single End Elongation high speed, 400 m/min UTJ % min 4.9 4.8 4.7 4.7 60%
Significant CLASSIMAT Faults, remaining
A3+B3+C2+D2, cumulative * UCQ 1/100 km max 14 14 14 14 50%
E UCQ 1/100 km max 0 0 0 0 50%
H2 + I2 UCQ 1/100 km max 0 0 0 0 50%
Foreign fibers A3+B2+C1+D1+E1, cumulative UCQ 1/100 km max 0 0 0 0 50%
Yarn friction, waxed yarn
Coefficient of friction UZF - max 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.16

Table 8 Agreement on requirements / Ring-spun yarn, cotton 100%, combed, for knitted fabrics, cones

In addition, the maximum amount of remaining seldom-occurring events

such as disturbing thick and thin places and foreign fibers are also specified
in Table 8.

List of testing systems:

®
AFIS = USTER AFIS / Single Fiber Testing System
®
HVI = USTER HVI / Bundle Fiber Testing System
®
UAS = USTER AUTOSORTER / Count Measuring System
®
UZT = USTER ZWEIGLE TWIST TESTER / Twist Measuring System
®
UT = USTER TESTER / Multi-purpose Laboratory System for yarns, rovings and slivers
®
UTR = USTER TENSORAPID / Single End Strength Tester
®
UTJ = USTER TENSOJET / High-speed Single End Strength Tester
®
UCQ = USTER CLASSIMAT QUANTUM / Yarn Fault Classifying System
®
UZF = USTER ZWEIGLE FRICTION TESTER / Yarn Friction Measuring System
* Cumulative means: The counts also include the values in higher classes (A4+B4+C3+C4+D3+D4)

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4 Conclusion
The accurate specification of cotton and all kinds of yarns (cotton, blended,
100% synthetic) is an enormous support for spinning mills to buy cotton
according to minimum requirements. Together with a precise measurement
of yarn quality characteristics a standardization takes place within a signifi-
cant domain of the textile industry (raw material and yarn) where all the
specialists and managers use the same language.

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Uster Technologies AG
Sonnenbergstrasse 10
CH-8610 Uster / Switzerland
Phone +41 43 366 36 36
Fax +41 43 366 36 37
www.uster.com
sales@uster.com

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