BACHELOR OF DESIGN (FASHION)

REPORT ON
SUMMER OBSERVATION
TRAINING
COMPANIES FOLLOWED :
1. ORIENT CRAFT
2. ALL ABOUT KNITS

Sonam Khurana
SCHOOL OF DESIGN AND VISUAL ARTS
APEEJAY STYA UNIVERSITY
SOHNA, GURGAON
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I take this opportunity to express a deep sense of gratitude to Mr Gaurav Arora, All About
Knits and Saurav Sharma, Orient Craft Limited, for their cordial support, valuable
information and guidance, which helped me in completing task through various stages.

I am obliged to staff members of both the companies for the valuable information provided
by them in their respective fields. I am grateful for their cooperation during the period of my
industrial training.

I’d like to express my sincere gratitude to my head of Department Dr Himani Chaudhary for
giving me the opportunity to complete my industrial training. It would never be possible to
take this project to this level without her innovative ideas and relentless support and
encouragement.

Sonam Khurana
 TABLE OF CONTENT

CHAPTER TITLE PAGE NUMBER

NUMBER
1. ALL ABOUT KNITS 1
i. INTRODUCTION
ii. DIFFERENT
DEPARTMENTS
TEXTILES 2
i. KNIT FABRICS 3
ii. TRIMS
DYES 4
PRINTS 5-6
EXPOSING OF SCREEN 7
TYPES OF SCREEN 8
PRINTING
SURFACE 9-10
EMBELLISHMENTS
i. TYPES OF POCKETS 11
ii. MEASUREMENTS
POINTS
COSTING SHEET 12
i. MARKER 13
ii. LEARNING OUTCOME

2 ORIENT CRAFT - 14
INTRODUCTION
DIVISIONS AND PRODUCTS 15
CLIENTS 16
AWARDS AND 17
RECOGNITION
TRAINING DESCRIPTION 18
PROJECT DETAILS

KEY SECTIONS 19

HIERARCHY 20
ORDER PLACEMENT 21-22
FDS 23
FABRICS 24-27
HIGHLIGHTED DESIGNS 28
POINTS TO REMEMBER 29-30
 TEXTILES

FIBER FILAMENT

NATURAL SYNTHETIC REGENERATED

PLANTS ANIMALS

FIBRES – (SPINNING) – YARN- FABRIC

TEXTILE INDUSTRY

KNITS WOVEN NON-WOVEN

 SURFACE EMBELLISHMENT

FOIL PRINT WITH HIGH CAD CUT MEDIA (HTV-

GUN METAL FOIL AND
DENSITY HEAT TRANSFER VINLY)
CRACK

EMBOSSING

KIDOMANIA IS EMBOSSING WITH CAD CUT

TAPES

FLOCK PRINT IS DONE

IN TWO WAYS :

I. THROUGH
FLOCK SHEETS
II. MACHINE
KVR BEADS
 ACRYCLIC SILICON

(SMOOTH AND EXPENSIVE ) (ROUGH AND CHEAPER )

▪ RUBBER PRINT (MOST CHEAPEST THAN ACRYCLIC AND SILICON)

▪ SWAROSVKI WORK / RHIMESTONES / STUDS

RHIMESTONES OVER CAD

CUT MEDIA

▪ STICKERS ( VARDHMAN IMPEX, MUMBAI)

▪ UMBREY EFFECT THROUGH PRINTING
 KNIT FABRICS
CIRCULAR WEFT KNITTING

SINGLE JERSEY DOUBLE JERSEY

▪ Pique ▪ Interlock
▪ Terry ▪ Rib
▪ Fleece

KNIT FABRICS MAJORLY USED

i. FANCY YARN
ii. SLUB
iii. LYCRA
iv. CRUSHED LYCRA
v. MELANGE (2%..)
vi. PIQUE
vii. INDIGO (SULPHUR INDIGO)
viii. BONDED
ix. GRINDLE
x. MERCERISED COTTON
xi. FLEECE
xii. TERRY
xiii. SUEDE KNIT

TRIMS

i. TAPES
a. Knitted
b. Woven
c. braided
ii. BUTTONS
iii. PEARLS, STUDS
iv. EYELETS
v. FOIL SHEETS
vi. BEADS
vii. ZIPPERS
viii. PATCHES
ix. LACES
x. DRAWSTRING
xi. RIBS
 DYES
There are basically 4 types of dyes :
i. Acid
ii. Indigo (discharge of blue ink)
iii. Reactive
iv. Sulphur

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN REACTIVE AND SULPHUR.

REACTIVE SULPHUR

In reactive dye, enzymes react with the In sulphur dye, enzymes don’t react with
fibres. the fibres.

Identification - Both sides of the fabric The front side of the fabric will soak the
are of same colour. colour while the back will be white.

Its stretchable due to lycra resent in it. There is no stretch in the fabric.

The washing doesn’t affect the colour. It fades after being washed.

BINDERS

LIGHT BASE DARK BASE

 PRINTS
1. KHADI PRINT
a. Presence of opaquer.
b. Its little raised from the surface.
c. Its touch is kind of stiff and rough .

2. WATER BASED PRINT

a. It gets dissolved within the surface
b. It has smooth surface.

FORMULATION OF INK
WATER BASED PRINT

COMPONENTS OF INK
WATER ACRYCLIC (binder) ADDITIVES PIGMENT

3%2%

15%

80%
3. HIGH DENSITY
a. It has most raised surface
b. (depend upon number of coatings.)
c. It has smooth surface

4. FOIL PRINTING
a. Screen is made as per the design.
b. Binder is spread all over the screen
c. Foil is placed over the fabric inside the machine.
d. Heat is transferred to attach foil onto it.

▪ HIGH DENSITY WITH FOIL PRINT

It’s a combination of high density and foil print.
The foil is printed over the high density print.

5. FLOCK PRINTING
 EXPOSING OF SCREEN

I. Positive of design is made on CAD

II. Screen is painted with green fluid, process known as photo emulsion.

PREPARATION OF
SCREEN.
MESH FABRIC IS USED
TO MAKE SCREENS.

III. Positive is placed onto the screen.

IV. The screen is exposed under the light machine (covered with black curtain)

LIGHT MACHINE

V. After this, screen is washed thoroughly with water and kept under the sunlight to dry.
 TYPES OF SCREEN PRINTING

▪ Water based
▪ Oil based
(plastisol)
▪ Silicone based
▪ Discharge
▪ Flock
▪ Foil
▪ Glitter
▪ Shine
▪ Sugar
▪ Caviar beads
▪ Flock sheet

PRINTING MACHINE

FOIL PRINTING MACHINE

EMBOSSING MACHINE
 ALL ABOUT KNITS
All about knits is an Indian leading wholesale and manufacturer of
readymade kids garments situated at bahadhur ke road, Ludhiana.
They have been in the manufacturer business over 10 years with the
motive to provide clothes which meet the standard of modern
lifestyle. The company is divided into numerous brands like Kirti (
for girls), kidomania (for girls and boys) modormis (for girls ).

I have worked at kidomania which is owned by Gaurav Arora. Their

turnover is around one crore per annum.

DIFFERENT DEPARTMENTS

I. Design room
▪ Coordination
▪ Cad
▪ Selection

II. Sample making

▪ Pattern
▪ Cutting
▪ stitching

III. Printing
▪ Exposure room
▪ Screen printing
▪ Machinery
▪ Roller printing

IV. Fabric section

V. Store room
VI. Graphic room
▪ Stud machine

VII. Colour room (pigments and binders)

VIII. Production stitching

IX. Laser and cad cut machine

X. Pressing and finishing

 MARKER CALCULATES THE TOTAL AMOUNT OF FABRIC
REQUIRED TO MAKE ONE PIECE OF GARMENT.

LEARNING OUTCOMES

I. Performed sampling, both of girl's wear and boy's wear for AW.

II. Managing the Tech Packs, fabrics and trims & accessories.

III. Exposed to array of garment printing inks and effects.

IV. Understanding the basics of circular weft knit structures and their application.

V. Created trims and accessories chart to ensure smooth flow of sampling flow.

VI. Reporting grey areas to avoid hindrance during sampling phase.

VII. Assisting CAD pattern department with designs, silhouettes and ideas.

VIII. Acquired knowledge of yarn count, fabric composition and fabric properties.
 TYPES OF POCKETS

(IN CASE OF BOTTOMS)

▪ Side pocket
▪ Cross pocket
▪ Curve pocket
▪ D shape (round)
▪ Front patch
▪ Cut pocket
▪ Fitch pocket

MEASUREMENT POINTS
 COST SHEET

Profit margin on each garment is

approximately 30-40 %

FABRICS THEY DEAL IN

 HIERARCHY

DESIGN PACK

DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE
(In case costing meets)

BUYING SAMPLE (after order confirms)

AS IS APPROVED RED SEAL SAMPLE

(fit sample- base size)

GREEN SEAL SAMPLE

(size set sample – 12 & 22)

AFTER APPROVED GREEN SEAL

PRODUCTION FILE
▪ Testing done
▪ All trims done
▪ Fabric in housed

PCD (Production Cut Date)

GOLD SEAL (TOP SAMPLE)

➢ Gold seal / Black seal / Top of production samples are the representatives
of the entire collection. They are like bible for all. QA will measure
quality of rest of the production with gold seal samples.
 AFTER ORDER BEING PLACED
The time and action plan (TNA or T&A Plan) is an important tool for
a merchandiser to enlist his day-to-day activities or to enlist the different
operations involved in the process of completing an order. It includes shipping
date, delivery date, etc.
CBR – Capacity Booking Requisition
Its done after order is placed. It specifies which machines will be used and who
will work on that order on a prescheduled date and time.
OB – Operation Bulletin
Booking Marker – Fabric Consumption
ERP – Enterprise Resources Planning
PR – Gives an overview of the machine and labour work required to calculate
the total cost of a garment after all expenses.

VIEW OF THE PROGRAM FILE

 BEFORE PROCEEDING PROGRAMME FOR MARKER FOLLOWING
DETAILS ARE NECESSARY TO BE NOTED :

I. Price of the fabric

II. Shrinkage
III. Width
IV. Print / Solid
V. One way / two way print
VI. FDS – fabric detail specifications
VII. OB

PRODUCTIVITY SPECIFIED BY OB

COLOUR SWATCH CARD TO BE

SENT FOR LAB DIP

HANGER
 FABRICS
I. CAMBRIC

II. CREPE

III. SINGLE JERSEY

IV. LUREX - POLYESTER

V. POPLIN
VI. TENCEL
VII. VOILE
VIII. TWILLED
IX. RAYON

X. COTTON DOBBY

XI. COTTON SLUB

XII. ALEXIA

XIII. YARN DYED

XIV. SHEER SUCKER

 XV. DENIM

XVI. VISCOSE

XVII. VISCOSE - MODAL

 ORIENT CRAFT

Established over 40 years ago, Orient Craft is today India’s 1 garment design house,
backed by a large world class manufacturing infrastructure. With state-of-art
production facilities across 21 units and a combined capacity to produce nearly
2,00,000 pieces per day, OC aims to deliver high quality in wide variety of products
to suit its customer’s needs. Currently the annual turnover of OC is 250 million USD
(first cost, resulting in over a billion dollars of retail products and growing). Their
strength to keep abreast with latest fashion trends and worldwide sourcing network
helps them to meet client satisfaction. Cutting edge technology, modern infrastructure
and innovation in design are some of the words that describe them. In their endeavour
to be a socially responsible corporate, they execute various programs and initiatives to
uplift the local, rural and marginalized sectors.

USP OF THE COMPANY

Team of expert designers, merchandisers and engineers,

across various divisions, ensure that they manufacture highly sophisticated, uniquely
designed pieces for their customers – from small to very large volumes.

They are committed towards the communities around which they

operate, the environment and their people. they go behind and beyond the needle
point.

In 2011, the Chopanki unit attained the much sought-after

IGBC Green Certification. The avant-garde project at Chopanki
also houses it’s at the in-house dormitory.
DIVISIONS & PRODUCTS
CLIENTS
 AWARDS & RECOGNITION

Orient Craft has been recognized by the Government of

India (GOI) and other authorized bodies for its achievements
and contribution to the industry . Some of the awards are :

Highest exports in Blended Fabric Garment for

the year 2012-2013
by AEPC, Ministry of Textile, GoI.

Third highest ‘Group Employment Provider’ for the years 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 &
2012-13
by AEPC, Ministry of Textile, GoI.

Manufacturer Exporter – Gold category winner for the highest exports in 2008-09 &
2009-10
by AEPC, Ministry of Textile, Gol

Gold winner for the highest Exports in Knitter Garments for the year 2008-09 &
2009-10
by AEPC, Ministry of Textile, GoI.

Second highest exporter award in the year 2009

by AEPC, Ministry of Textile, GoI

Export Award for Woven Garments Export

by APEC Ministry of Textile, GoI , in the year 1997.

Export Award for Global Exports by

AEPC, Ministry of Textile, GoI in the year 1994.
 TRAINING DESCRIPTION

DEPARTMENT : MERCHANDISING
TIME PERIOD : 1 MONTH ( FROM 9TH JULY’2019 TO 8TH AUGUST’2019 )
LOCATION : 80p, SECTOR-34, NEAR HERO HONDA CHOWK, GURGAON
COORDINATOR : SAURAV SHARMA (H.O.D.)
UNDER SUJATA BAJAJ’S TEAM
BUYER : SAINSBURY’s
GBP (POUNDS) IS THEIR
CURRENT CURRENCY.
HEADOFFICE : 33 Holborn,
London EC1N 2HT

PROJECT DETAILS
The main task was to assist my seniors in developing their samples. It includes various stages
like :
i. Developing program files.
ii. Sourcing fabric for the new samples.
iii. Finding suitable trims for the program. Like threads, buttons, Gramix, smocking, etc.
iv. Getting programs in for the development.
v. Creating presentations of their collections for their clients.
vi. Sending fabrics to be tested in the laboratory.
vii. Dyeing of fabrics, laces, buttons, etc.
viii. Sending fabric for wash in the laundry.
ix. Creating swatch cards to be sent to the buyer
x. Developing challan for each courier to be sent out of the organization.
xi. Enquiring the various details about the fabric like its price, cuttable width and
shrinkage.
xii. Creating and updating excel charts of the samples.
xiii. linking with the cad masters to develop patterns for the samples.
xiv. discussing the techniques with the designers used in the designs of samples.
xv. Sending formats or samples for OB
xvi. Getting Embroidery done from the embroidery section.
xvii. Pressing, finishing, spotting, taking pictures on the mannequins.
xviii. Managing production files.
 FDS (FABRIC DETAILS SPECIFICATION )
TEST DONE IN THE LABORATORY

I. PHYSICAL TEST
▪ Count
▪ Construction
▪ Fabric weight/gsm
▪ Tensile strength
▪ Tear strength
▪ Seam slippage/strength
▪ Button pull test
▪ Button breaking strength

II. CHEMICAL TEST

▪ Fiber content
▪ Ph of water extract
▪ Surface ph.

III. COLOUR FASTNESS TEST

▪ Washing (30,40,49 degree Celsius)
▪ Perspiration
▪ Actual laundering
▪ Crocking
▪ Dry clean
GSM TEST
▪ Water
▪ Light
▪ Non chlorine/chlorine bleach

TWO TYPES OF WASH DONE IN LAUNDRY

I. Normal wash which takes 2 hours

II. Enzyme wash which takes 32 hours
 POINTS TO REMEMBER
➢ Exports houses work in two process :
Either buyer will present their own designs and if the cost factor meets the expectation
of both the companies, the order is placed
Or Export houses present their own designs and samples and buyer selects out of them,
with considerable changes or as its they are.

➢ Company takes credit from the bank to execute the orders, as they get payment after 5-
6 months of shipment.

➢ Founded in 1869, by John James Sainsbury, Sainsbury's is the second largest chain
of supermarkets in the United Kingdom, with a 15.3% share of the supermarket sector.

➢ To check white fabric is dyable or not :

Check it under uv light machine.
If it has brightness and shines, then it’s not dyable, (which means presence of uv).
If it doesn’t shines, then its dyable which means absence of uv.
If the fabric is water absorbable, then also its dyable.

➢ There are two ways to give texture on fabric :

a. PRINTING
b. WEAVING

➢ Shrinkage test is very important. Patterns are made after shrinkage test only.

➢ Two test are done before sale of a garment :

FPT – fabric performance test ( done at fabric stage )
GPT – garment performance test ( done after garment is made )

➢ Lab dip – solid, strike off – printed, bit loom – yarn dyed

➢ woven fabrics are overlocked before sending for laundry.

➢ Threads used for woven fabrics are made up of polyester.

➢ R&D threads are cotton made

➢ 27-30 tex (plies) threads are majorly used.

➢ For kids wear, latex free elastic is used because its more softer than the usual elastics.
And Gramix threads are used in kids garments only because they are bit stretchable.

➢ In cotton, as the thread count increases, the quality of fabric increases. and vice-a-versa.
Same applies to knit fabrics
 ➢ In case of synthetics like poly, as the thread count decreases, the quality of fabric
increases and vice a versa.

➢ KTL thread is used for computer embroidery.

➢ Mocks are the imitations of actual garments on a small size. Usually done for
embroidery, etc.
➢ Spotting is the process of removing of stains from the garments or fabric.

➢ Smoking is the shirring effect. A stretchable kind of thread is used to give this effect. 5 or 7
or 12 cones of threads (depending on the type of design to be made) are simultaneously
used in the smoking machines. Elastic are also used in it.

➢ Schiffli is majorly done on casement fabric

➢ WIDTH OF THE FABRIC VARIES FROM :

38/42/44/48/50/52/54/55/56/57-58/60 INCHES
▪ HOW TO CALCULATE PRICE OF EMBROIDERY

For that, you need :

Cuttable width : 50 inches

Finish width : 52 inches

Embroider specifies Rs 85 on cuttable width 100.

1mtr sq. – Rs 85.

If you want the price of a fabric which is rectangular then calculate the cost accordingly.

146*100 divided by 100%.

HIGHLIGHTED DESIGNS OF SAINSBURY

UMBREY EFFECT
THROUGH PRINTING CAMI
DRESS
KEY SECTIONS

KIDS

NEW BORN

WOMEN