Typical Install REDLINE-WEBER

Instructions FUEL MANAGEMENT

Read & understand all steps of these instructions before beginning this installation.
Kit is for off-road use only, not for use on highways or in California.

REDLINE Kit K697 & K697-38

ISUZU TROOPER 1.9 & 2.3 Litre engines

Using REDLINE WEBER 32/36 DGEV or 38 DGES

These instructions are intended as a general guide for installation.

Certain steps may vary slightly for different vehicles.

Jetting Specifications
Jetting specifications of carburetors supplied in kits may vary slightly,
and will always be correct for the intended application.

Tools Needed Parts Supplied with Installation Kit

Combination, box or open-end wrenches REDLINE WEBER 32/36 DGEV or 38 DGES
Socket set Carburetor adapter
Screwdrivers (regular and Phillips) Linkage kit
Pliers Chrome air filter
6mm Allen Wrench
Gasket scraper, Knife
Wiping rags, Cleaning solvent
Gasket sealer

TUNE - UP SPECIFICATIONS
All engine tune-up specifications for the REDLINE Carburetor remains the same as those specified by
the factory for the original unit. A suitable qualified dealer or independent garage, using infrared gas
analyzing equipment, should carry out emission tune-up.
NOTE: Late model vehicles fitted with Emission Control Systems have many vacuum lines and electrical connections in their
fuel systems. It is essential when dismantling, that disconnected lines be identified with a number tag or label system.
Establish function of any device reconnected or disconnected.

RECOMMENDED ADDITIONAL PARTS

1. It is recommended to obtain a new fuel filter and install it when installing this kit.
2. Many late model vehicles use a high-pressure fuel system. The REDLINE Weber Carburetor
only requires 3.5 lbs maximum fuel pressure. For aggressive or off road we recommend a
pressure regulator adjusted to 2.5 lbs. for a stable fuel / float control.

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Universal Disassembly REDLINE
FUEL MANAGEMENT
THROTTLE CABUE
1. Disconnect battery and remove gas cap.
BRACKET
2. Remove OE air filter assembly and all attaching ELECTRIC
CHOKE
hardware and hoses. Use a numbering system for
the hoses to identify them for reassembly.
3. Troopers 1,9L & 2.3L have the air pump hoses
attached to the air filter housing therefore either:
1. The hoses must be plugged, or. 2. The air pump
drive belt removed.
4. Using a numbering system, remove all vacuum
hoses from the carburetor. The vacuum advance
hoses are part of the evaporative emission system
and the hose is tee'd at the left side of the
carburetor. The float bowl vent will be used with
this conversion, so, don't remove this system.
5. Disconnect throttle cable and fuel hose, then
remove the carburetor.
6. Place rag in the intake and remove the original
mounting studs, clean the mounting surface.
7. Plug all manifold vacuum fittings that have been THROTTLE
CABLE
exposed from the removal of the carb and
emission devices.
8. Removing the carb causes the "CHECK ENGINE" TRUNNION
NUT
light to illuminate, turn light off by: THROTTLE SHAFT
NUT
a. In glove box remove two Philips screws
Bench assembly
on computer cover and remove computer
b. Disconnect the smaller connector by
Install the new REDLINE lever on the carburetor.
depressing the tab and remove.
CAUTION: Do not over tighten throttle shaft nut.
c. On this removed connector, remove the
Proper tightness can be achieved by installing nut just
blue wire by inserting a small diameter
slightly more than finger-tight (finger tight then one
tool into the receptacle side of the pin.
more flat of the nut) and bend lock tab. After
Gently bend the pin securing the tab flat.
tightening, open choke and check for full throttle
Pull the pin from the connector shell and
operation from idle stop to wide-open throttle. If any
tape the pin with electrical tape.
sticking or binding occurs, loosen nut and re-tighten
d. Replace connector and replace the
with reduced torque. If excessive torque has been
computer in its original position.
applied, re-centralization of the throttle plate may be
necessary. This may require loosening nut and
rapping on the end of the shaft with a small plastic
mallet or a screwdriver handle (We are not driving
nails here firm, but not abusive).

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 Universal Reassembly REDLINE
FUEL MANAGEMENT

Reassembly CARB.
BASKET

85-86 1.9L Trooper

Install Carburetor Adaptor
9. Remove rag from manifold opening. Install the
carburetor adaptor as follows; See Figure 1 (We
suggest using Loctite on all bolts and studs during
installation of adaptor.)
a. Select the gasket that best matches the intake
manifold carburetor mounting surface and coat
the gasket with grease or a suitable gasket
sealer (Silicone or RTV sealer is "not" suitable).
Install the bottom adaptor half with gasket to
the intake manifold.
b. Torque to 12 ft. lbs.
c. Coat the intermediate gasket with grease or a
gasket sealer (Silicone or RTV sealer is "not"
suitable). Use the four 6mm cap bolts to attach
the top adaptor half (vacuum hole to front) with
gasket to the bottom half. We suggest using
Loctite on these bolts. Torque to 6 ft. lbs.
d. Install the 8mm studs with the kit into the top
adaptor half. Hand-tighten these studs, V* turn
BEFORE hitting the bottom adaptor plate.
e. Set the greased carburetor base gasket over FRONT OF
VEHICLE
the studs and with the linkage toward the
firewall of the vehicle; install the REDLINE
carburetor onto the adaptor. Install the bell
crank bracket on the two studs closer to the left
fender and then install the washer and nuts
supplied.
f. Torque the carburetor nuts to 12 ft./lbs.
g. Install "long" down rod to the bell crank on the
side of the engine. Check for full throttle
CARB.
operation. MOUNTING
h. Cycle the linkage by hand to check for sticking STUOS

or binding. Remember over tightening causes

binding. Correct any linkage problems,
now, before proceeding.

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 87-88 2.3L Trooper...
Install Carburetor Adaptor
10. Install (use Loctite) the two long studs in the threaded holes closer to the right (Passenger) fender.
11. Select the gasket that best matches the intake manifold carburetor mounting surface and coat the gasket
with grease or a suitable gasket sealer (Silicone or RTV sealer is "not" suitable). Install the bottom
adaptor half with gasket to the intake manifold. Install the two 8mm alien screws with Loctite into the
counterbored holes on the valve cover side of the adaptor. Torque 12 ft lbs.
12. Loctite and install the two studs in the threaded holes in the adaptor plate.
13. Select the carburetor base gaskets and coat both gaskets with grease, or a suitable gasket sealer
(Silicone or RTV sealer is "not" suitable) install one on the adaptor. Install the insulator with the 3/8
mounting hole toward the right side of the vehicle. Now, install the other carburetor base gasket on top of
the heat insulator.
14. Install the carburetor with the linkage toward the firewall. Install the throttle cable bracket on the two studs
closer to the valve cover, install nuts and washers provisionally tighten them. Torque to 12 ft lbs.
15. Thread throttle cable through the cable bracket and connect the throttle cable to the lever. Tighten the
cable jack nuts to secure it to the cable bracket. Check for free cable movement and full throttle
operation. Do not proceed unless all operations are ensured correct.
16. Connect fuel hose to carburetor using a new fuel filter.
17. Connect distributor vacuum hose to the ported source located directly under the choke element and
slightly to the right.
18. If disconnected, Re-connect the P.C.V. from the valve cover to manifold vacuum source.
19. Re-connect the battery and replace the gas cap.
20. Start the Engine and check for fuel leaks. Use the tuning procedure on the following page.
21. install air cleaner assembly and reconnect the breather hose from the valve cover to the air filter
assembly.
22. Check for hood clearance BEFORE closing the hood.

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32/36 Progressive WREDLINE
Lean Best Idle Adjustment — weber carburetor

Base line Settings idle speed scwew

Speed Screw 1 to 11/2 turns MAXIMUM
Mixture Screw 2 turns
Your settings with engine running
Speed Screw
Mixture Screw

It is important to verify all linkage and levers are installed without binding and the linkage opens to full throttle and closes to the
Idle Speed Screw. The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and over tightened
linkage nut, causing a binding in the linkage assembly.

All settings are done with engine warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged.
1. Back out the Idle Speed Screw until it does not touch the throttle lever. Cycle or Snap the linkage again to be sure that
the linkage and lever comes to complete close. (Checking for linkage bind) Turn in the idle speed screw until it
contacts the throttle lever, and then continue to turn the idle speed screw in 1 1/2-turn maximum.
2. Set the Idle Mixture Screw by turning it in until it lightly seats. Then back out the mixture screw 2 full turns out. DO
NOT FORCE THE MIXTURE SCREW, AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND Its SEAT
IN THE BODY OF CARBURETOR.
3. * With the engine at operating temperature, choke fully open and engine running, turn in the mixture screw
until the engine starts to run worse, then back out the screw (recommend V* turn at a time) until the engine
picks up speed and/or begins to smooth out. Back out 1/4 turn more, or until the screw does nothing or runs
worse then turn back to the point where it ran its best. We are looking for the Lean Best Idle or the "sweet
spot".
4. Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Then, recheck mixture screws to lean best idle again. If all is still the
sweet, best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings.

5. If the mixture screw is out more than 2 1/4 turns, then the idle jet is too lean (too small). If the mixture screw
is out 1 3/4 of a turn or less, then the idle jet is too rich (too large).

These assumptions are based on the fact that the Idle Speed Screw is not more than 11/2 turns in. If the
Idle Speed Screw has to be opened more than 11/2 turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition
usually requiring jet change. "At times" it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding this could
also be the float level is too high, 17mm from gasket surface to the tip of the float, and, check the fuel
pressure, MAX. 3 Vz PSI, USE a pressure regulator!
All Warranty and technical assistance is provided through the manufacture, no part will be credited or exchanged through the retailer, ALL
warranty exchanges or service will be handled through the manufacture REDLINE WEBER @ 1-800-733-2277 ext 7457. ALL technical
support service for the first year of the product is free. Additional assistance for special performance tuning AND non-warranty service is
available on a for fee basis and the service charge will be confirmed at the time of the call if applicable.

5
K697RGM IN.5165 http://www.redlineweber.com
38DGAS Tuning WREDLINE WEBER CARBURETOR

CARBURETOR SET UP AND LEAN BEST IDLE ADJUSTMENT

Base line Settings:

Speed Screw:
1/2 turn in MAXIMUM
Mixture Screws:
%to 1 1/4 turns out

Final Settings Engine Running

Mixture
Speed
]Idle Mixture Screws'
It is important to verify all linkage and levers are installed without binding and the linkage opens to full throttle
and closes to the Idle Speed Screw. The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage
installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing a binding in linkage assembly.

CALIBRATIONS MAY VARY DUE TO REGIONAL FUELS AND STATE OF ENGINE TUNE AND
PERFORMANCE. POOR RUNNING DOES NOT ALWAYS MEAN A BAD OR POORLY ADJUSTED
CARBURETOR. AN ADVANTAGE OF THE WEBER CARBURETOR IS ITS EASE OF ADJUSTMENT AND
TUNING.

SET UP ADJUSTMENTS
1. Start set up by confirming carb base line settings. Do not depend on the existing settings.
2. All settings are done with choke disengaged and warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and
disengaged. This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by
hand and inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled
(linkage operated through its full movement) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click
as the choke cam is released. You can check the choke fast Idle screw under the choke assembly
to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.)
3. Set the Idle Speed Screw by backing out the Idle Speed Screw until it is not in contact with the
throttle stop lever. Cycle or Snap the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close
without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the
lever and continue to open or screwing in, no more than 1/2 turn in. maximum.
4. Set the mixture screws by turning each screw in until it lightly seats. DO NOT FORCE OR BIND
AS THiS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND IT'S SEAT IN THE BODY OF
CARBURETOR. Back out the screw 1 full turn.
TUNING:
1. BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE NEXT INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE, DEVIATION
WILL CAUSE THE CARBURETOR TO NOT FUNCTION TO ITS IDEAL SPECIFICATIONS AND
MAY NOT PROVIDE THE PERFORMANCE AND FUEL ECONOMY AS DESIGNED.
2. Start the engine, the engine will run very slowly more like a tractor. As long as the engine stays
running the idle speed is not important at this point.
3. The first thing is to set the Idle mixture screw to lean best idle setting , do not set "up" the idle
speed. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine dies or runs worse, then back out the screw
(recommend turning V* at a time). The engine should pick up speed and begin to smooth out. Back

6
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 out 1/4 turn more, or until the screw does nothing or runs worse then turn back to the point where it
ran its best.
4. Use your ear, not a scope or tuning instruments at this point. You want to tune the engine by
sound. Adjust to best, fastest and smoothest running point.
5. Now that the mixture screw is at its best running location, you can adjust the idle speed the screw.
The idle speed screw will be sensitive and should only take % turn to achieve the idle speed you
like.
6. Check and set idle to your driving preference. Put the car in gear and apply slight load, (AC on)
and set the Idle as you like it. Don't set it too high, (more than ZA turn in is TOO much) as this will
cause causes excessive clutch and brake wear. The Idle only needs to be 650 to 800 RPM with light
load or AC on.
7. Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Recheck mixture screw to lean best idle again. If all is still
best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings.
8. To confirm settings with the engine running. Start by screwing in the mixture screw and count the
number of turns it takes to bottom out and note if the engine dies. If Idle Mixture screws are with in
1/4 turn of base line setting then all is well. Also check the speed screw and note how many total
turns from initial contact. You may have opened (turned in) the speed screw. Your final setting
should be under 3/4 turn in. Reset the screws (back in) to the best final settings (Per your notes)
and go on a test drive. If the settings are other than described then you may want to recalibrate the
Idle circuit (low speed circuit) to your engines needs. This is done by following the rule of thumb
BELOW.

Simple Rules for low speed calibration

If the mixture screw is more than 11/2 turns out turns then the idle jet is too lean (too small). When the mixture
screw is % turn or less, then the idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the
speed screw setting is not opened more than 1/2 turn in. If the speed screw has to be opened 1/2 or more
turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear
to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. Please understand the need to keep
throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what
causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size. JET KITS are available if
needed.
EXAMPLE With the idle speed screw set at no more than 1/2 turn in after contact with the stop lever;
and the best idle occurring with the idle mixture screw set at 1 1/2 turns from lightly seating, indicates the need
for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at less than 1/2 turn indicates the need for a smaller idle jet.

All Warranty and technical assistance is provided through the manufacture, no part will be credited or exchanged through
the retailer, ALL warranty exchanges or service will be handled through the manufacture REDLINE WEBER @ 1-800-
733-2277 ext 7457. ALL technical support service for the first year of the product is free. Additional assistance for
special performance tuning AND non-warranty service is available for a service charge. The service charge will be
confirmed at the time of the call, if applicable.

K697RGM IN.5165 http://www.redlineweber.com

 REDLINE
Trouble shooting guide
FUEL MANAGEMENT

This guide in intended for diagnostic purpose only. Specific procedures and adjustments should be obtained from
factory service manuals or the carburetor specification sheet.

Every REDLINE Weber carburetor is thoroughly tested at the factory and meets high quality and performance
standards.

Since other engine components problems affect the performance of the carburetor it is strongly recommended to
perform the general engine checks of this guide BEFORE making any carburetor adjustments.

GENERAL ENGINE CHECKS

OIL DEPOSITES - WET FOULING
1. Worn piston rings, bearings, seals
IGNITION SYSTEM 2. Excessive cylinder wear
1. Cracked, broken wires 3. Leaking- damaged head gasket
2. Incorrect ignition wire location (firing order)
3. Timing improperly adjusted BLACK CARBON BUILD-UP, DRY FOULING
4. Distributor cap cracked, arcing 1. Fuel mixture to rich
5. Low coil output 2. Dirty air filter
6. Corroded plug terminals 3. Engine over heating
7. Incorrect vacuum advance hose connection 4. Defective ignition wires
8. Points corroded, wrong gap 5. Sticking valves, worn seals
9. Incorrect spark gap 6. High carburetor float level
7. Damaged, sticking needle and seat assembly
EMISSION SYSTEM 8. Incorrect fuel pump pressure (1.5 - 3.5)
1. Cracked, loose vacuum hoses 9. Spark plug heat range to cold
2. Improper vacuum hose connections
3. Faulty EGR valve operation BLISTERED, BURNED ELECTRODES
4. Air pump diverter valve anti-backfire valve faulty 1. Spark plug range to hot
5. Faulty PCV valve operation 2. Timing improperly adjusted
6. Dirty breather filters (Charcoal canister, Valve 3. Engine overheating
cover breather, PCV filter inside air filter assembly) 4. Incorrect spark plug gap
7. Faulty feedback system operation 5. Burned engine valves
8. Vacuum delay valves (switches) faulty 6. Wrong type of fuel

FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM INSULATORS CHIPED

1. Dirty fuel filter 1. Incorrect spark plug gap
2. Incorrect fuel pump pressure (1.5 - 3.5) 2. Improper spark plug installation
3. Restricted, kinked fuel lines 3. Severe detonation
4. Fuel lines in contact with hot surface
5. Contaminated fuel PLUG GAP BRIDGED
1. Lead deposits fused to electrode
SPARK PLUG ANALYSIS 2. Engine overheating
3. Spark plug heat range to hot
Normal spark plug condition is a sandy brown deposit on
the insulator surface with no signs of electrode damage.
GASOLINE FOULING
The following conditions will help you analyze your plugs
1. Distributor cap cracked, arcing
condition.
2. Loose, broken ignition wires
3. Low coil output

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 Carburetor REDLINE
troubleshooting guide FUEL MANAGEMENT

This is a guide for diagnostic purposes only

ENGINE KNOCKS, PINGING (Cont.)
ENGINE WILL NOT START 9. PCV system malfunction
Over 90% of engine failure to start conditions are ignition 10. Loose fan belts
system related 11. Faulty vacuum delay valve (switch)
1. Open circuit between starter and solenoid, or between
ignition switch and solenoid DIESELING, ENGINE RUN ON
2. Starter motor faulty 1. Faulty idle solenoid operation
3. Battery charge to low 2. Carburetor linkage binding
3. Incorrect idle speed and idle mixture adjustment
ENGINE HARD TO START WHEN COLD 4. Timing improperly adjusted
STARTS & STALLS
1. Incorrect choke operation (worn coil, electrical HESITATION, POOR ACCELERATION, FLAT SPOT
connection faulty) 1. Vacuum leaks
2. Improper vacuum hose connections
2. Fast idle speed to low
3. Improper choke pull off operation 3. Timing improperly adjusted
4. Low carburetor float level 4. Low carburetor float level
5. Timing improperly adjusted 5. Loose, corroded or broken ignition wires
6. Damaged sticking needle and seat 6. Low ignition coil output
7. Engine flooded 7. Fouled or damages spark plugs
8. Incorrect accelerator pump operation
9. Incorrect fuel pump pressure (1.5 - 3.5)
ROUGH IDLE, SURGING, MISSING, STALLING
1. Incorrect idle speed and idle mixture adjustment 10. Restricted or kinked fuel lines
2. Timing improperly adjusted 11. Restricted fuel filter
12. Carburetor power enrichment system malfunction
3. Vacuum leak
4. Incorrect vacuum advance hose connection
5. Faulty EGR valve operation
POOR LOW SPEED OPERATION
6. Faulty PCV valve operation
1. Indirect idle speed and idle mixture adjustment
2. Dirty air filter
7. Incorrect choke operation (coil settings)
8. Improper choke pull off diaphragm operation 3. Timing improperly adjusted
9. Improper vacuum hose connection 4. Loose, corroded, or broken ignition wires
5. Distributor cap cracked or arcing
10. Low carburetor float level
11. Restricted, kinked fuel lines 6. Restricted idle jets or air bleeds
12. Restricted fuel filter
7. Incorrect carburetor float level
13. Distributor cap cracked, arcing
14. Loose, corroded, or broken ignition wires POOR HIGH SPEED OPERATION
1. Incorrect vacuum advance hose connection
15. Damaged idle mixture adjusting screw
16. Distributor shaft worn
2. Incorrect distributor centrifugal advance
17. Faulty idle solenoid operation
3. Incorrect spark plug gap
4. Incorrect carburetor main jets, air correctors
18. Restricted carburetor jets or air bleeds
5. Incorrect vacuum hose connections
19. Restricted air, breather filters
20. Incorrect spark plug gap
6. Dirty air, or breather filters
7. Incorrect fuel pump pressure (1.5 - 3.5)
ENGINE KNOCKS, PINGING 8. Worn distributor shaft
1. Timing improperly adjusted 9. Incorrect carburetor float valve
2. Incorrect vacuum hose connections
10. Incorrect carburetor float level
11. Restricted or kinked fuel lines
3. Distributor malfunctions
12. Restricted fuel filter
4. Carburetor jets to lean, restricted
5. Low carburetor float level
6. Poor quality fuel
7. Faulty EGR valve operation
8. Faulty feedback system operation

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