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Kulin Arya

This guidebook aims to promote Filipino cuisine by providing standards and best practices for ingredients, preparation, and presentation of dishes. It recognizes the diversity and individualism in Filipino culture that leads to wide variations in cooking styles. The six chef authors sought to define traditions, not reinvent them, by focusing on recipes that serve 4-6 people rather than large quantities or strict definitions that suppress local variations. The goal is to improve quality and help Filipino food gain broader recognition internationally while respecting regional differences.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
854 views201 pages

Kulin Arya

This guidebook aims to promote Filipino cuisine by providing standards and best practices for ingredients, preparation, and presentation of dishes. It recognizes the diversity and individualism in Filipino culture that leads to wide variations in cooking styles. The six chef authors sought to define traditions, not reinvent them, by focusing on recipes that serve 4-6 people rather than large quantities or strict definitions that suppress local variations. The goal is to improve quality and help Filipino food gain broader recognition internationally while respecting regional differences.

Uploaded by

bramoupi
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 201

KUL1NARYA

A Guidebook to Philippine Cuisine

Glenda Rosales Barretto Conrad Calalang

Margarita Fores Myrna Segismundo

Jessie Sincioco Claude Tayag

Michaela Fenix Neal Oshima


Contents

Preface Asia Society Philippine Foundation, Inc. 7

Messages San Miguel Pure Foods 8

Del Monte Philippines, Inc. 10

Introduction 13

Pa rtici pati ng Chefs 16


Working Towards World-Class Cuisine 19
What Is Filipino Food? 29
Branding Our Food 33

PULUTAI\ Appetizers 47
SABAW Soups 61
GUlAY AT EN SAlADA I Vegetables and Salads 75
UlAM Main Dishes 99
ADOBO Vinegar Braised 137
PANClT Noodles 155
MER1ENDA Snacks 165
M1NATAM1S Desserts 189
APPENDlX Sundries, Sauces, Condiments and Relishes 203

Glossary 222

Index 224

Sponsors 226

Acknowledgments 240
J

Asia ')ociety
Phi lippine Foundation, Inc.

One key aspect of culture is food, and it serves as a powerful promotional The Asia Society IS the leading global
and pan-Asian organizatIOn working to
channel. Millions of Filipinos live and work around the world, yet Filipino strengthen relationships and promote
understanding among the people, leaders.
cuisine is hardly known or recognized outside the country, compared to,
and institutions of the United States and
for example, Thai and Vietnamese. Relatively few Filipino restaurants Asia. It seeks to increase knowledge of
Asia and Its dive rse cultu res, enhance
have made their mark abroad . dialog ue, encourage creative expression.
and generate new ideas across the fie lds
These are the principal reasons that the Philippine Department of Agriculture, of policy, busi ness, educat ion , arts, and
the Asia Society, in cooperation with offers information on the sourcing of culture. The Society does t his through

the Philippine Department of Tourism, ingredients and provides standards lectures, exhibit s, j ourna ls, publica tions,
conferences, travel t ours, and ed ucation al
with grants from San Miguel Corporation and best practices to help growers and
programs in schools and on t he Internet.
and Del Monte Corporation, started the producers, packagers, purveyors, and Fou nded in 1956, Asia Soci ety is a
Kulinarya project, consisting of this book cooks meet the increasingly discriminating non-partisan, non-profit ed ucational
and the Kulinarya website (kulinarya .netj. expectations of a growing domestic and institution with centers in Hong Kong,
Houston , Los Angeles, Man ila , Melbourne ,
This ambitious project advocates improved international market.
Mumbai, New York, San Fra ncisco, Seou l,
cooking methods and best practices in the Quality standards will enhance branding Shanghai, and Wash ington, DC.
preparation and presentation of Filipino and investment in Filipino restaurants
food. It hopes to build greater appreciation and develop demand for our food and
for and understanding of Filipino cuisine ingredients, which will directly benefit
and its traditions at home and throughout Filipino food producers, big and small.
the world. Asia Society thanks its invaluable
Six of the country's most prominent partners in this project: the Department
chefs gave generously of their time of Tourism, San Miguel Corporation, Del
and talent to create this book. Glenda Monte Corporation, Anvil Publishing, and
Barretto headed the group, composed of the Hotel and Restaurant Association of
Conrad Calalang, Margarita Fores, Myrna the Philippines.
Segismundo, Jessie Sincioco, and Claude The book was created by food writer
Tayag. Together, they set out to identify Michaela Fenix, photographer Neal
and assess best practices to improve the Oshima, Claude Tayag as food stylist, and
standards of selection of ingredients, book designer Ige Ramos.
preparation and presentation of more The scope of the project has been a
than 90 recipes. challenge . With this guidebook, Asia
Kul inarya.net, produced in cooperation Society hopes to make its contribution to
with the Center for International Trade the recognition of and appreciation for
Expositions and Missions (CITEM) and Filipino cuisine throughout the world.

W!IppaI SkaIMd mushrOOlllS (pino,s no kobu td


Foreword 7
lntroduction

The principal problem in branding and defining standards for Filipino


cuisine is that Filipinos are by nature highly individualistic and diverse.
Standards in our culture seem to exist not so much to be followed
strictly, as to serve as a basis for personalization. In fact, variation and
diversity are the standard. The preparation and presentation of Filipino
food is tremendously varied, even within the same province, town or
neighborhood, in the same way, for example, that villages separated by
less than an hour's walk in the Cordillera mountains speak completely
different languages and regard each other as foreigners.

Wide variation seems to run counter variations.


to the concept of branding, which is The team decided that Kulinarya's

based on agreement and convention. For recipes should define tradition, not

example, to brand a dish, there ought to reinvent it. For example, although the
be a commitment to how it should look, team's first impulse was to focus on

so it can be recognized. Well-known large family-style servings in the fiesta

dishes found in Asia such as tempura, or restaurant tradition, we realized that

nasi goreng, Peking duck, or tom yum Filipinos, on a daily basis, eat more

are consistently prepared and instantly typically from smaller portions. These

recognizable. This is not always the case are most commonly a viand (ulam), a
vegetable (gulay), and rice (kaninj. Thus,
with Filipino dishes.
The Kulinarya project's primary the recipes in this book are designed for
four to six but can be presented for two
purpose, however, is not to define
how a dish should look, nor is it to or more people to share.
There are notable exceptions. Some
suppress variation in favor of a single
recipes specify larger quantities because
strict interpretation. It focuses instead
they require more time and effort to
on defining guidelines to improve the
cook and are thus more cost-effective
selection of ingredients, preparation and
when prepared in quantity. Also, many
presentation. The end product should be
Filipino dishes (for example adobo) are
food that is freshly cooked, served at
more delicious when stored and eaten
the ideal temperature, and aesthetically
later, as flavors are more fully absorbed;
presented. The goal is to establish a
it is a sort of retro-marination that is
reprodUCible baseline of quality, with
unique to the cuisine.
characteristics that persist through all

~awttd salad knsoladang gos6 or laid) Introduction I 13


selections were force-classified into many variations of br ..
many discussions
conducte d . even if Filipinos do not always . alSlng, stew,
The team .. e to other ASian cour ses - sOmetimes frying. Ap t f ng,and
. Filipino CUISIn serve meals by courses. This was done to .. ar ram techn,
companng h of Asian cooking there are sign ifi cant .. . que,
Because muc make the cuisine more understandable variations
cuisines. . k the ingredients ingredients added to th b .'n the
. ten with ChOpStlC s, . e aSlc V'n
IS ea t . to bite-size pieces by international norms, and also to salt, and pepper, Such egar,
are generally cu In I make menu planning, whether for home as coconut milk
and deboned, leaving . the plate c ean soy sauce, and annatto wate A .'
or restaurant, easier. Meriendo (the ... r. dObo Isn't
after eating. There were arguments. on limited either to basic "CPA" .
bones and shells enhancing traditional snack between meals) was !chiCken
the men tsof ... pork odobo), as the adobo tech.
added because it is when delicacies like . nlque 's
flavor, versu S t he archetypal Filipino applied all over the country t
rice cakes (kakoninjare eaten. Rice cakes . . 0 meat,
plate full of debrIS after a meal. In the
. fish, shellfish, and even vegetables.
end, the recipes pay particular attentIOn are considered too heavy to be part of
After hammering out the list and
to achieving good flavors without too the main meal, and neither can they be
achieving agreement on the recipes, the
many bones and shells left on the plate. classified as dessert.
next challenge was presentation. It was
Anotherdebate centered on identifying Recipe selections were based on
agreed that one person had to style the
what makes Filipino food unique. The regional preferences and popularity
dishes and we unanimously nominated
team agreed that "sourness" is a basic throughout the country. Every home, Claude Tayag for this.
quality of many Filipino dishes-adobo, town, and region has its own version of The entire Kulinarya team would like
sinigong, paksiw, kilawin. Another IS a particular dish. Poksiw, for instance, to express its gratitude to those who
its flexibility, accommodating dipping
varies widely depending on regional contributed their time and ideas to help
sauces (so wsa wanj, condiments, and
preferences, such as the type of vinegar with this cha ll enging project.
relishes made from a wide variety of
used, the vegetables added (or not), and The most gratifying experience of
ingredients. Filipinos like to personalize
whether or not pork fat is a feature of all was the way the chefs all worked
their food with individual dipping sauces
the dish. It was difficult but imperative together-with enthusiasm. generosity,
and other accompaniments.
to select recipes that best represent the and a constant sense of fun. in spite of
Kulinarya's first challenge was to
dish and serve as a standard. the serious ambition of the project, and
draw up the list of standard Filipino
dishes most repreSentative of the diverse Adobo was a manifest exception. the effort and energy it demanded from
culture. The team also strove to create a Most Filipinos regard adaba as the all of us.
balance of m t national dish,' but the team recognized
ea , Poultry, seafood and
vegetables. After much debate th ' . that adobo is not just a dish but a way Glenda R. Barretto
, e recipe
of Cooking in itself. The process involves Chair, Kulinaryo Project

------ dalY !kan


1It should be noted that the legen rch tilt
. . and rrst3 '
of filipino food wilting rnadt a
~__ fernandeZ,
late Doreen Gam~. as the dish Ift05I
compelling case for SIn/gong . thIS IS ~
representative of f I·,·Ipl·no taste.
the convention in acackfnC.

14 f klJlINARYA fAG '


u1debook t DL·.
o ~"lhppine CUiSine
Working Towards
World-Class Cuisine

Kulinarya's mission is to inspire world-class preparation and presentation


of Filipino food. It promotes the application of best practices and a basic
understanding of cooking methods that apply to Filipino food. This
section emphasizes practices that should develop into habits.

Start with quality ingredients


Market vendors and supermarkets supply Prawns for sinigong are aesthetically
ingredients and produce according to large enough, yet still tender when
they are 50 grams, or 20 pieces to a
demand.lfwe exercise more discrimination
kilo.
in our purchases and demand better
The ideal weight for milkfish, or
quality, these suppliers will provide it.
bangus, is 500 grams, or two to a
Some examples:
kilo, for special dishes like rellena.
• Pork belly or liempo, a key ingredient At this weight, it is easier to de-bone
of Filipino food, should have evenly and the belly fat has developed.
distributed fat-to-meat content. • Select young, newly harvested
The ideal quality is achieved from a vegetables because they require
swine slaughtered at 90 to 95 kilos less cooking time and retain their
live weight, with a dressed carcass green color. Yard-long beans, or
weight of 65 to 70 kilos and a back sitaw, when not fresh, are so tough
fat measurement of 15 mm. that they must be cooked until they
• The best pigs for Filipino lechon de discolor; yet when picked young they
Above - Fresh "baby" vegetables, clockwise
leche are a native variety which have can actually be eaten raw.
from top: eggplant {t%ng no bi/og},
a higher fat to meat ratio, making Consumer demand for specific string beans {hobichue/os}, bitter melon
the meat tender and juicy. We should standards and sizes of produce, {omp%yang 1I0cono a bi/og}, and okra.
take away the guesswork of what size meat, poultry, and seafood will give
of lechon to order, often calculated the needed incentive to producers Opposite page - Filipina salad {ens%dong
according to the number of people to and their logistic providers to supply Filipino}
be fed, and instead adhere to ideal sizes better quality ingredients.
which are specified on page 128.
Oayap <.arvIOCJ Technique ..
. carving
FrUit . tradition s show the Filipin
. o Thin k pre<;en td
aesthetic sense. The picture shows IJm~ or
in preparation df n, green,
doyop carve d by one of the food artists
in Bulacan. ~ ervlce n, and ColOr
The intricate pattern IS called burdodo,
Spams. h f or "embroidery"
. because
.I.
t show s 1~r ~triklng color of FI ' ,
"" I II . I 'P'no f
the same fine detailing as applied In the ran from the wid ' oOd COlli!
Filipinos are one of the few ASian peoples e varrety f s"
sewing ar ts . Th e first step is to remove condiments characte' . a IaUC!s a"
the insides of the lime with a small scoop, who do not eat with chopsticks, but with a . rrstlc of th '
Little platters of co/ ,e CUisl,!
until only the rind remains. A small sharp fork and spoon, Yet hom es an d restaurants . omonsl lalt
knife is then used to carve out the deSign. egg (Itlog no mao/at) ch'l' ' !d dUCk
across the country still so metimes serve , I leI (si/in /
When held up against the light, the final green mangoes piokle ( 9 abuYOI
food with bone or shell splinters caused by , , I atcho "
carved rind is virtually translucent. This a few, bring an exciti raj, to na~~
is then usually preserved in syrup. Before haphazard cutting and chopping, Greater ng color PI,
the table, The 'Ind' 'd . a!,t! ~
serving, each rind is stuffed with pastillos attention must be paid to proper cutting IVI uallty
de leche, a traditional soft candy made of by mixing one's OWn d' e'pr!11td
techniques and knife skill s, to provide (sawsawan) to Campi 'PPlng sa,
carabao milk and sugar. 'c~
greater control and evenness in cooking, , ement th! d'
IS characteristically Filip' Ilh~
This will naturally lead to less waste and Ina. So"so
an d condiments should be Ie d ",-
better presentation, Since poultry and mea t rye In Ima
pla tes, at home or in restaurant
vendors now provide pre-cut parts, the task I, al a'11,
to define and enh ance the u . '
is made a bit easier, This book specifies nlquenellof
Filipino food,
chicken cut into quarters and eighths or
Vegetab les should be prepared so thai
pre- cut breasts and thig hs rather than the
they are served crisp and Vibrant. It \
t raditional bi rd chopped through the bone
important to understand the COoking tl~e
into 12 to 15 pieces for adobo,
of each vegetable, as well as when t.'ty
are to be mixed with other food, 10 trt
Basic cuts and terms
none of the ingredients are overCOO'ej
• Chop (hiwa, putol, tadtad) - Cutting Vegetables should ideally be blanChed
into small pieces without specific
measurement. and then cooked at the last mometl
just before serving, This is an Importa,'
• Mince (pinong hiwa 0 tadtad) - Used
for aromatic vegetables, such as technique to ensure that vegetablelrelalr
shallots and garlic or herbs, This is a their vibrancy and the overall presentate"
fine, small chop, is more appetizing,
• Shred (himav) - Used for leafy herbs
and vegetables, This is a fine strip
·cut. Serve food freshly
• julienne - Used for starchy root cooked and pipin~
vegetables to produce matchstick
sizes: hot
Fine julienne - '116 X 11 6 X 2 IN, , ortant pract C!
used for ubod for lumpia or ukoy Perhaps the most Imp fG:;j
. b ok IS to sme
julienne (ma tchstick or allumette) encouraged in th iS a ndQ':~
" hot. Th is maysou
- '/a x '/a x 2 IN, used for salads fresh and piping I t Ilag e; at
'n the as
Batonnet - '/4 x '/4 X 2 IN obvious, but plan nr 9 b fore leNing
e Just e
• Dice - Produ ces cube-shaped cuts cooking to converg . The reCipC
an izatlon.
used for garnishes and vegetables, requires carefu I org dded step
. lude an a
Fine Dice I Brunoise - '/a x '/a x '/a IN in this book often Inc bl sor seaW'"
eta
Small Dice I Macedoine of partially coo kIn 9 veg t e minute >1-"tl
. h for a las • -d
and readying t em the table'G,a
- '/4 X '/4 X '/4 IN , sat .-
or boil so food arnve . food ,,~rl .-
Medium Dice I Parmentier h Filipino r«
fresh, Since muc derstand tr3
- '12 x ';' x '/2 IN t to un ~~
it is also importan es may n
large Dice I Carre - 3/4 X 3/4 X 3/ 4 IN
rocess
timing of other P

20 I kUllNARYA I A Guidebook to Philippine Cuisine


be adjusted to coincide exactly with the poa ching . Th is method uses wate r or
Oily fish is excellent for grill; T
completion of grilling, including the "rest a liquid (such as stock, a sauce, broth
aVOid .Iean fish or other food stiC~~· 0
time" for grilled meats. or soup) as a medium . Generally, It is
the grill, brush the grill well . h . 9 to
Important to select good quality, tender . Wit all. Also
remove fISh from the grill wh '.
1ed d ..111 plat('~ cuts of meat for dry- cooking meth ods
while the moist- heat cooking meth od is
about done. en It LS just

f Place the presenta!"Ion Side of the


certain to tenderi ze even the tough est
Since Filipino food is most often served all ood down first to create grill mark. tha.
cuts. are made by th e ...
at once, "family style," and all the dishes Inltla I .Intense heat 1
make a crOSS-hatch mark on the f~ ~
The following charts (see pages 22-
are eaten on one plate (unlike the Western
23) define the different Filipino cooking turn the f 00 d 9 0 degrees after the f 1 ,
practice of different courses served k II,),
methods and categorize the recipe s in this mar S appear, When the mark .ch".
sequentially, and a change of plates for
book. turn t he food over and cork .}
each dish or course), the cook must try
doneness. 1 urn only on'~
to visualize what will be left on the plate
~ ng" .inug To slow dov/' Or • pe'
when the meal is over. To limit the debris
Select tender cuts of meat becau se thi s locate the hot and nlJ
left on a plate, for example, chicken parts
fast, dry-heat cooking method does not If possible, have 0" ,.:
should be deboned and prawns peeled
allow the time nor moisture needed to hi gh heat and ore"
beforehand.
tenderize tougher meat cuts. Covering the fo .J

Always prepare the grill by cleaning it flavor but Iner,_


Learn the cooking with a wire brush and clean towel. It is burn ing.

methods applied 111 important to use a very clean grill. Si nce grilling
meth od helps prevent
lJ'if

Filipino cui')ine Make sure the grill is very hot. It will


be difficult to achieve the caramel ized ,
burnt on the outSide
th e inside. This .s par'
It is important to be familiar with the smoky flavor otherwise. Avoid flare-ups,
pork and poultry, wLich <~
different cooking methods and how they which happen when fat drips down on the
done. The first step is '0 p.' I J
apply to Filipino cuisine. Cooking methods heat source. Flare-ups will char the food
the meat by another methoc. fu. ~
may be divided into two major groups: dry and give it a burnt taste. Have a spray
by poa ching it In its marinade fOi two
heat and moist heat. bottle of water on hand to put out the
minutes, then finishing it on the gril, ThiS
Dry-heat cooking includes grilling, flames.
method also works well when preparing
broiling, frying, and sauteing. These Keep the skin on chicken and small
many port ions (e.g. catering).
methods are characterized by the omission poultry to prevent the meat from drying

of water or liquid as a cooking medium. out. Be extra watchful to keep boneless

Moist-heat cooking includes simmering, chicken breasts from drying out. Keep

boiling, steaming, stewing, braising, and some fat on the meat.

Grilling Times Fish and Seafood

• Barbecued Pork Chop I Inihaw • Whole tilapia : 2.5 minutes each


no Babay: '/2 in thick 1100 g. 6 side (200 g)
minutes each side (well done) • Whole bang us wrapped in
banana leaves: 3.5 - 4.0 minutes
• Pork Barbecue (PAGE 55) : 4
minutes each side. each side (500 g)
• Butterflied bongus: 3 minutes
• Chicken Inasal thigh: 6.5
minutes each side (115 g) each side (500 g)
• Bongus bellies : 2-3 minutes
• Chicken breast with wing : 7
minutes each side (190 g) each side.

• Chicken cubes in a stick: 5.5


minutes each side (165 g)

Working ro~ards World-Class Cuisme I 21


Chick~" Iflu
Pork Barbe.

TortDng Tolor
Rtlltnong Tu.
Rtlltnong Bur,
Shrimp Ukoy
Oolng no Bang"
Beef Topo
Pork Torta
Pinaputok na /sda
Crispy Pata
Lechon Kawali

I¥mItbtt
;:, ... ,: J~1IDng Hubod
,~"o Gllisodo

Rtllenong Manak
Cassava Cake
MOI~T - - - - ~ _. ~~.
!
-.~

Leafy vegetables such as spinach or camote tops, still moist


Pan-steaming from rin sing, are put in a covered pan over high hea t for a Rellenong Bongus
pastngaw few minutes until just wilted but still green . Rellenong Monok

Ensa/oda FilIpino
Cooking in a steamer or on a rack over boiling water preserves vege tables
Steaming I pasingaw the flavor, nutrients, shape and texture of foods better t han Puto
poaching or boiling. Kutsinto
Politow

Food wrapped in banana leaves (or paper) and ba ke d or Pinais no Kobut-


En Papillote I plnais grilled. Pinois no Alima. 0

Tough cuts of meat or stringy vegetables are cooked slowly


Braising in a small amount of stock or sauce, in a covered container in Hu mba
the oven or stove top. Generally for larger cuts of meat.

Bistek
Similar to braising but using more liquid and, usually, smaller,
Kaldereto
Stewing Kore-kare
tough cuts of meat. These are slowly simmered in liquid for a
Pinatisang Manok
long period to tenderize and allow the flavors to meld.
Chicken Bin okol
Binogoongon

Adobong Kong kong


Adobong Pusit
Braising 1Stewing in Vinegar Instead of stock or sauce, the cooking liquid used is principally Adobong Puti
adoba vinegar. Adobo 50 A tsuete
Adobong Manak at Boboy
Adobo SO goto

Laing
Food is cooked gently (below boiling point-not exceeding Guinataang Kalaba5a at Sitaw
Simmering
B2°C 11 BO°F) in water or stock to just cover. In a simmer, the Pandt Malo
ininin / pananukon
bubbles rise slowly to the surface. Guinataong Sugpo
Seafood Sinigong

Pochero
Boiling Food is submerged in salted water and cooked above 100°C 1 Beef Bulalo
pinakulo 212 °F, and maintained at high heat. In a boil, the bubbles rise Pork Sinigang
sigang/sinigang quickly to the surface. Tinola
Seafood Sinigang

Vegetables are submerged in salted boiling water for one


or two minutes, to partially cook. The vegetables are then Fresh Lumpiong Ubod
Blanching
removed and immediately submerged in iced water to stop Ensalado Filipino
banlian
the cooking. They are then dried on towels and usually vegetables
reserved for later use.
Stewing in Vinegar Poksiw no Lechon
paksiw The food is submerged in vinegar and cooked until done. Paksi w no Bangus

Browning (caramelizing) the surface of the food at high heat


Searing with little or no fat, searing brings out the flavors and creates
sonkutsa a fond (caramelization/brown bits) at the bottom of the pan,
used in making sauces.

Workin g Towards World-Cla ss Cuisine I 2J


draws moisture to t
'con. ' erature Filipinos like crisp food, so it IS Important
ke point of oil is the temp meat and dissipates he SUrface of
The shmoh the all begins to burn, and thus to master frying techn iques for food that causes splatter' flaVor, as ... the
at w IC . . h h'gh Ing. qell as
mes visible. Use oil Wit a I is moist and tender on the inside and crisp
smoke beCO . h th n
. t that is one much hlg er a
smoke pam " "CI on the outside. Maintain oil at h' h
thdeal deep-frying temperature of 190 Ig tempe
37~:F If the oil's smoke point is too close to Heat the oil to 180°- 190°C I 350°- greasy food. Put ingred' ratureto a'Od
. lents i . I
this t~mperature, its smoke point will drop 375°F, depending on the size of the time to keep the tem n a little at
perature fro .a
after the first use and it cannot be reused. food being cooked and the recipe. Do Once you have cooked mdrOPPing
Oils that have high smoke points and are . one bat h .
not exceed this optimal deep-frying remove It, raise the t c of food
thus ideal for frying are coconut, peanut · em perature . '
and vegetable oils such as sunfiower, corn temperature by more than 7-8T Since Immediately add anoth again and
er batch.
and soybean oil. Olive oil has a low smoke the temperature of the oil drops when the Place deep-fried item .
pomt and can be costly to use for deep s On wife racks
food is placed in it, it is good practice to a pan to allow excess oil t d ' over
frying. . a Tip off 0
The number of times and length of time
use a deep-fry thermometer. If the oil is cover deep-fried food . . a not
Items as tho
oil is used affects its smoke point Oil should too hot, the exterior will burn before the make them soggy. IS wil
be discarded as soon as it changes color or food is cooked through. Use two-stage COOking on f
starts to develop a smell. Generally, oil should be six times the pork belly, or poultry: atty fOOds like
The presence of salt lowers the smoke
point and breaks down the oil more quickly.
Do not salt or season deep-fried food prior
vo lume of the food to be fried. The food
item should be submerged in the oil, so
• Prepare pork belly by slowly sim .
In water until fork tender th fmellng
. ,enrySe
to cooking. allow space in the pan or casserole for the reci pe for lechon kawafi, page 109. e
Reduce moisture contact with the oil.
Dusting food with fiour or cornstarch, or
using abatter mixture or standard breading
level of oil to rise when the food is put in.
• Prepare poultry by steaming and then
drying, then pouring hot oil on the sk'
procedure will help. Pre p tl 'on Sp11t~E before frying. In
Oil with a high smoke point can be
reused a few times. The presence of food • Remove moisture from meat by
blotting with paper towels before
• Double frying: For excellent fried
chicken,
. lightly coat the dried Ik'm
particles pollutes the oil, so filter them
frying. In some cases, you may lightly with flour. Fry at 190"C I 37S"F for
out after cooling using a strainer or paper
towels. Store oil in a tightly sealed bottle in coat the poultry, pork, or fish with 10 minutes. Remove the chicken from
the refrigerator or in a dark, cool place. flour or cornstarch. The coating acts the oil and allow to cool for 2 minutes.
. Avoid preheating oil too long or too as a protective shield, cooking the food Allow the oil to heat up again and fry
high. Turn off the heat immediately once through indirect heat and preventing the chicken again for 10 minute~ Check
you are finished frying. Discard oil if smoke the ali from penetrating the food and that the oil reaches the optimal deep-
appears before it reaches 190"C I 37S"F or leaving it greasy. frying temperature for the second fry.
If It smells rancid.
• Carefully slide the food into the oil to
prevent splattering.
A batter mixture may also be used.
Dredge the food item with seasoned

• Do not apply salt before frying. Salt


flour, rice flour, or cornstarch, then dip
in batter mixture just before frying.

Fried fish (p
mang iSda)

24 I klJLJNARY
AlA
aut n ture Tra( tona ll y. Fil ipinos cook the
The correct sauteing or stlrJrylrg method garlic f rst because of a preference for a

IS to frI "
~t heat the pan over a rot flarre. rr'ore purge'lt aroma and flavor. This can
When the pan starts to smoke (whlel) w'Jr~ f t'l e ti ming is right.
't should If It is seasoned). add a sma
f 011 or fat It is Important not
arnoun t O .
to add the oil to a cold pan because it Braising delivers excellent food while

will burn by the time the pan reaches the actually demanding little effort from

correct temperature for the saute. and the the cook. This moist- heat method first
involves searing the meat in hot fat or
food will stick to the pan.
As soon as the oil is hot (no more oil, and then simmering it in a stock or

than a few moments). carefully place the sauce in a covered container on the stove

food in the pan in such a way that the or in the oven. The liquid must come up to

oil splatters away from you. A handheld at least two-thirds of the meat. Braising

screen may also help. Shake the pan so the generally uses larger cuts of meat, such as

food does not stick to it. It is important to pork belly for humba (PAGE 114).

reduce the heat, especially when the food Braising tenderizes tough cuts of meat

is thick and requires more cooking time. by gently penetrating it with moist heat
which breaks down the tough fibers and Pork in shrimp paste (Binagoongang baboy)
When sauteing a flat piece of food (like
a chicken breast, or steak), start with the collagen. ThiS makes for a thick, flavorful

presentation side so it is exposed to the sauce.

hottest heat for an attractive finish. Even tender meats such as poultry,

Sonkutso or searrng meat and poultry fish, and shellfish can be braised, but

is a step used for braises and stews, to for a shorter period of time at a lower

caramelize the surface and sea l in the tempera ure and in less liqUid, otherwise
juices. After searing, a technique called they Will dlsin egrate.
deglazing can be used to enhance the BraiSing liqUids can be a good stock
flavor of the sauce. Deglazing is a process or a combination of stoc and sauce,
in which the fond (the brown bits that including tomato sauce. For braiSing, use
stick to the bottom of the pan) IS released a heavy-gauge cooking vessel, such as a
by adding a liquid such as broth or water. casHron pot.
This fond'S then used to flavor the sauce. For enhanced flavor, roughly chopped
The basic ginisa base for many Filipino onions, carrots, and celery may be
dishes is a combination of garlic, onions, browned in the same cooking vessel after
and tomatoes. The easiest practice is to searing the meat, hen adding the liquid.
cook the Ingredients by order of densi y The vegetables may be remo ed or left in
to prevent charrrng. Start with the onions, for a country-style dish.
W ich s auld be cooked untl they are An Important rule for braising' Never
ranslucen (to release the sugar content, allow the interior temperature of meat
3'ld us brown evenly), follow With the to reach anywhere near boiling or It will
mOre de Icate garlic (do not bro lin or burn become tough. Heat must be kept low at
gar IC, It 111 t rn bi ter) and finis Wit all limes.
omatoes because hese In raduce
Cleaned beef, poultry .
. . imi lar to brai sing except that , and fish b
SteWing IS S well as the heads and h on~s a
. an important element
. 'd overs the meat and is heated s ells Of's
Shrimp stock IS. It is made from the IlqUi c .' are used to make stock AI ShellfiSh
'I' 'no dIShes. d . t under boiling point (simmering) In . . thOUgh '
of many FI Ipl . . 5 that waul time to prepare stock ·t. It tal.
hell trimming WJus . ,I IS a '\
heads .and s. d d Water is added
be dlScar e . . a long an d S low cooking process until the the meat, bones and a good uSe Of
otherwISe . flavor by pounding . 'romatk Ve
t the shrimp ( meat becomes fork tender. (garliC and/or onions I k getable\
to extrac d d trimmings. SEE . ' ee s, carrot
or blending the hea 5 an This technique is best for the toughest cuts and trimmings that m' h s, celen,
PAGf 207)
Ig t oth . "
of meat. Unlike braising, which uses whole thrown away). Stocks ca b erwise be
cuts, stewing uses smaller, evenly cut chunks n e stored f
to one week in the ref' Or up
rrgerator an
of meat to aid the tenderizing process. three months in the freez . d up to
Stewing is an important cooking . . er Within 1 •
It IS Important to cool th -4 C.
method for Filipino dishes like kaldereta, . . e stack b f
storing In the refrigerator. e Ore
kare-kare or adobo.
In some cases, to make the dish more
appealing, the meat is sauteed or seared The difference between broth
for flavor development. This is a critical is that broth uses chicken band stock
h 'l
w I e stock uses bones. or eef me at
part of making adobo.
Rinse bones an d scraps w'th
Boiling. simmering I pinakulo, inin- I cold
water and place in a heavy t k
po.t s oc
Boiling brings meat-especially tough 2 Add cold water to the pot, enough to
cuts-to the internal temperature required cover the bones by approximately an
to break down collagen (connective Inch.
tissues). Boiling is also used to make 3 Bring to a boil over high heat for
broths and soups such as nilogo. However, approximately 20 minutes. Drain the
it is important to immediately reduce the water and add cold water again. This
will remove impurities that eould
heat to a low simmer once boiling point is
make the stock cloudy.
reached or the meat will toughen and too
4 Bring the stock to a rolling boil
much liquid will be lost.
then lower the heat immediately to
medium-low in order to bring the
in In stock into a gentle simmer. By gently
Blanch ing IS partially cooking vegetables simmering, any impurities will float
for one or two minutes to preserve to the top and can be easily skimmed
crispness and color. To stop the cooking off.

process, immed iately chill the food in an 5 Simmer the bones for 1 hour. Add the
. eto
aromatic vegetables, and contlnu
ice bath, then drain and dry until further
simmer the stock.
cooked or eaten.
. (see
6 After the allotted cooking time d
note below) strain the broth ahn
t
How to make broth cool or use .Imme d'la teIy. Note t ak
' s the stoe
or stock during the entire proces '. med to
should be constantly skim
produce a clear product.
Broth or stock is a flavorful liquid that
is the foundation of many soups, sauces . mered (of
Note: Beef bones must be Slm n6 (of 4
and stews. A good stock, added to recipes 6 to 8 hours: chicken :, 1/rOC1"
Instead of water, adds flavor and aroma , to 6 hours; fISh tJon6
Ra i dlllt I( In the lower shelves particu larly poult
which could have Salmonella, and cou~
and food h mcilln contaminate the rest of the food with its
auid lin blood drippings.

In order for Fil ipino food preparation to It is therefore important to adhere to th e


follow ing storag e prin ciples:
be world-class, one must comply with the
standards of sanitation and food handl ing. Top shelf: ready - to-eat food (produce
stock, lunch meat, leftovers) ,
proper food handling minimizes the risk
of food-borne illnesses. Food hazards Next shelf: dairy products

can be avoided by monitoring time and Next shelf: seafood


temperature. At any stage of preparing Next shelf: fresh meats
and cook ing, food will be subject to Next shelf: ground meats
temperature and time danger zones as
Bottom shelf: poultry
follows:
r ~ tor fnl n Ing th ..,.f.:.
Temperature - Pathogens can live in
p
extreme temperatures. The temperature Proteins should be stored according to
danger zone is the range within which their safe internal cooking temperature.
pathogens can grow. This range is between The product with the highest internal
4' to 60' C I 39' to 180' F . cooking temperature is stored on the
lowest shelf.
Time - Pathogens need time to reproduce Whole poultry, breasts, legs, thighs,
and grow. The time danger zone-four wings: 74' C I 16S' F
hours-is the minimum amount of time
Ground chicken: 69' C 11SS' F
needed for pathogens to grow rapidly to
Ground beef, pork, veal, or lamb:
dangerous levels.
68 ' C I 1SS' F
Fresh beef or pork : 63' C I 14S' F
Th is means that any food-in both raw or
cooked stages, should never be exposed
to the danger range for more than four
All foods should be reheated to an internal
hours. temperature of 74' C I 16S' F within less
than 2 hours after thawing or removing
Food. ~ d S from storage.
It is important to store food at the proper
temperature :

• Meat and Poultry: 0-2' C I 32-36' F Refrigeration method - Remove frozen

• Fish and Seafood : -1-1 ' C I 30-34' F item from the freezer, place in a shallow
container and keep in the refrigerator
Eggs: 3-4' C I 38-40' F
overnight (or longer) until completely
• Dairy Products: 2-4' C I 36-40' F
thawed.
• Produce: 4-7'C I 40-4S' F
Sink method - Place frozen item in a
Proper storage lo,ation in the container or wrap tightly with food-grade
refrigerator cling wrap. Place in the sink and run cold
The proper storage method in the water (4"C I 40' F) over the item until
completely thawed. Use within 2 hours.
refrigerator or chiller is important to
ensure that there .... ill be no cross- Microwave method - Place frozen Item
contamlO3 Ion of food items. The rule in a microwavable container and thaw
0' b
.IT' IS 0 place all raw food Items i n a mIcrowave oven according to the
appliance instructions.

· ' 121
Working Toward~ World·Class CUISII'IC
Bran di, 9 )
What Make ad lJniqu 7•
fly Micll.1l'I.l I <'Ili\

Filipino food has a deep and complex taste th at has been described as
linol11no l11 . Literally "deliciousness " yet signifying much more, it is the
root of the word molinomnol11, which is how a Filipino might describe
the savory and fragrant qua lity of a dish.
A significant aspect of the Filipino lil10 111 110 111 is sourness and a
penchant for tangy flavors . Three major Filipino cook ing techniques
have sourness as a flavor base: poksiw, kinilow or kilo win, and sinigol1g.
Although vinegar is also used in odobo, sourness does not dom inate the

dish's flavor.

Vinegars
The major souring agent in Filipino cuisine that gives paksiw its definitive taste. flowering stalks, and its vinegar is milder
is suka, vinegar. There is a considerable Many dishes, most notably fechon, can than that of the coconut or nipa.
array of vinegars made allover the be recycled for next- day eating by making Sugarcane is the source of the most
country from such diverse sources as the them into paksiw. common vinegar because of the high
sap of palm trees, sugarcane, fruits, and Vinegar is also the main ingredient for yie ld of raw juice per cubic meter of cane.
alcoholic beverages. ' Some Ph ilippine kinifaw, raw fish marinated in vinegar, then Sugarcane vinegar is sweeter than palm
vinegars are as clear as water, others as removed, after which other ingredients vinegars. For the special basi vinegar, a
dark as soy sauce, whi le sti ll others have are added for flavor and texture. yeast called bubud, as well as flavoring
green, orange, olive, amber or yellow Vinegar is also one of the main dipping from tanbark and leaves, is added to the
tints. Vinegars are also flavored by the sauces used on the Fi lipino table and is the sugarcane extract.
marination of spices, onions, chilies and main ingredient in the pickling solution of
other vegetables. atchara (pickled fruits or vegetables).
The eponymous method of cooking with
vinegar is paksiw, which in Cebu is called Types of Vinegar
inununan, In Bicol, mUllon and in Iloilo, Sap from the flowers of the coconut, nipa,
pinamalhon. ln the Eastern Visayas, poksiw and sugar palms, or kaong.' are made
is sometimes pronounced "paksiu". in to vinegar. Each pa lm has a different
Paksiw is app lied mainly to fish, flavor. Coconut vinegar is more acidic and
COoking It in vmegar with water, salt, so can be very sour. Nipa ' pa lm grows in , PIJ Lim Castillo, "Traditional Philippine
vlnegJr~ and their role III ,hJplllY the
garlic, ginger, peppercorns, and finger brackish water, so its vinegar is slightly
culinary culture" Presentatl!lI) at the
chilies
. ' Some regions prefer their . paksiw sa lty, but sweeter than coconut vinegar, Oxford SYlllp(l~1U1ll on food Jnd Cookery,
With sauce, while others reduce the sour and its high Iron content turns the vinegar 2005
mixture, COoking It till almost dry. Apart blackish after a while. The sap from the Arrenga pll1nato
from the fre h . sugar palm tree IS taken only from male NW" truticul1' lVurmb
s ness of the fish, It is vinegar
(urtnCT
. nt f1 () I 1111it and L(avc~
The most w idespread fruit souring agent Bauhinia, called a/ibangbang,'O and
4
is the tamarind, known as sampa/oc /ibas. "
Either the green sampa/oc fruit or the Sinigang variations throughout the
young leaves, or both, may be used to country use different combinations
different effect. It has been noted that from the arsenal of fruits and leaves,
the use of the unripe samp%c fruit ranging from just a hint of sourness
is unique to the Philippines. Tamarind to outright mouth-puckering. Most
leaves can substitute for vinegar, as sinigongs are soured with sompa/oc, but
practiced in one town in Bulacan. Their kamias is preferred when cooking the
dinuguan, or blood stew, tastes like sinigong variation that includes miso
sinampa/ukang manok, a chicken soup in the broth. Native ripe tomatoes add
dish that also uses young tamarind just a hint of sourness to the Visayan
leaves as an ingredient. version of sinigong called tino/a or
A close runner-up to samp%c tinowo, because the main ingredient is
is kamias' Visayans prefer a small, seafood, and nothing should overpower
6 the freshness of the fish or shellfish.
round, green fruit called batuan
Other fruits used in their unripe forms In the Bicol region, where sinigang is B

include pineapples, mangoes, guava,' called cocido, the souring ingredients


and santo/' Native Filipino tomatoes' are tomato and the ubiquitous local
• • . .fII';
are used ripe; unlike their European or
New World counterparts, they remain
slightly sour even when completely
lime called c%monsi12 These agents
add a sweet counterpoint
sourness. OayoplJ is another lime that,
to the
• "·.1'
ripe. The different kinds of leaves used
as souring agents include those of the
like ca/amansi, is also used to make a
refreshing drink.
.. "'id'
13

Tamarmdus indica
Tamarind, or sompofoc, In its green, unripe stage, Averrhoa bifimbi
IS excellent as a souring agent. After it is boiled Garemia moreffa
whole, it is mashed and strained through a wire Psidium guaJava
mesh to puree. The puree is mixed with the broth, Sadorieum koetjape
or 's used as an Ingredient ,n dipping sa uces LyeopefSleon eseu/entum
Isowsowonl. Young sa mpaloc leaves and flowers Bauhinia ma/abartea
are also used fo r dishes li ke slnompofukong Spondias pinnata
monol:, a chlt"en soup from the Northern and Cltrofortuneffa mieraearpa
Ctntral Luzon. The same leaves substitute for Citrus durentlfafoio
vinegar In Bulaean 5ampaloc is readily available
In powder form .

Branding Our foud I l'i


5

There are many souring agents used to enhance


Filipino dishes, either as part of the recipe or
as an ingredient in dipping sauces and other
accompaniments.
& 2 The a/ibangbang and /ibas leaves are
used with fish.
3 Native ripe tomatoes, kamatis, are used
in the Visayan version of sinigang, called
tina/a or tinawa.
4 Star fruit, called carambo/a or ba/imbing,14
is aIso used for sinigong.
5 Tamarind, or samp%c, is the prevailing
souring fruit throughout the country.
6 Green pineapple, pina" is used as a good
substitute to many souring fruits.
7
7 Green mango, or manggang hi/ow,16 is
eaten in slices or chopped into small
cubes and tossed into salads. As a souring
agent for soup, it is boiled then mashed.
8 Guava, or boyabas, is used in sinigang.
9 Kamios is stewed with fish to make
pinongat no is do, used for sinigang with
miso, or added to other dishes in raw
slices.
10 Sontolis used for sinigang and pangat.
11 & 12 Ca/amansi and dayap are important
souring agents that enhance the taste of
many Filipino dishes, and are often served
alongside them.
13 Batuan is a small, round, green fruit that
is used in the Visayas for sinigong and
tin 0/0.

• Averrhoo carambala
Ananas camasus
Magnlfera Indica
Sawsawan: Sauces and Condiments
pickled small green mango (burong Filipinos typically eat in communal fashion, Sawsawa n can be flavored with
pajo) with all dishes served sim ultaneously for aromatics such as garlic, onion, and
2 soy sauce (toyo) everyone at the table to share. There is always ginger. Fruits and juices, especially
3 shrimp pa ste (bogoong alomong) an array of dipping sauces and condiments, the sour types, are also added to the
4 fish sauce (patis) or sawsawan presented alongside. Served basic sauce for a twist. These include
unmixed, they are "fine-tuned to the diner's colamansi, kamias, tomatoes, chili, guava,
5 white vi negar (sukang putl)
taste"." Sawsawan livens up roasted, grilled, ginger, mango (half-ripe or green), and
6 fish paste (bagaong isda)
and boiled dishes. dayap. Spices such as wansuy (coriander
7 green mango (manggong hilaw) A complete sawsawan guide is listed leaf) and kinchay(Chinese parsley) add an
8 black pepper (paminto) in the book Philippine Food and Life [pp. herbal dimension.

9 salted duck egg {itlog no maalot} 56-57] by Gilda Cordero Fernando. The The various atchara or pickle relishes
book matches the sawsawan, which uses made with green papaya, coconut pith
10 chopped tomatoes {tinadtod no
kamatis} the basic foundations of toyo (soy sauce), (ubodl, kamias (as in the bora de kamias of
patis (fermented fish sauce), and suka Zamboanga), the dampalit that grows on
11 coarse sea salt {asin dagat}
(vinegar), to certain foods. The sauces the banks of fishponds, and the fermented
12 kamias
can be combined with each other and mustard leaves, or burong mustasa, can be
13 coriander leaves {wansuy} cond i ments such as bagoong (pungent served on their own alongside the main
14 fermented rice and fish {buro or fermented shrimp or fish paste). One of dish as flavor counterpoints, or they may
bolo-bolo! bolaw-balaw} the oldest traditional condiments is heko, be blended into the sawsawan.

15 native chilies {siling labuyo} the residue of bagoong. A Ch i nese black

16 chopped onion {tinadtad no sibuyas} bean cake called tajure is also used.
" Ooreen G. Fernandez, Pa/ayok, p. 66.
17 tamarind puree extract {pinigang
sampaloc}
18 calamansi lime
19 pickled papaya {atcharang papaya}

20 dayap lime

fermented mustard (burong mustusal

Branding Our lood I 39


4
Filipino Way" with Ri(
Rice is the food of more than half the Rice is often flavored. It may be gently
world, but the Filipino idiosyncrasies about patted with a block of salt (called tultul, CJ
Hugas bigas
how rice is cooked and served, and what it duldul, or dokdok) to give the grains a
1
is made into, defines Filipino cuisine. delicately salty flavor; or it may have soup Add enough water to the pot to
cover the rice grains. Slowly rub
Filipino cooking reserves the water used or sauce poured on top, an act known as
the grains against each other
to wash rice (hugas bigas) and uses it as hirhir, bahoc 17 or laboy. To create a dessert with the palm of your hands.
a base for sinigang broth. Th is th ickens or porridge, liquid chocolate, coffee, or Pour out and discard the first
the soup and retains vitamins that would fresh carabao (water buffalo) milk is washing .

otherwise be washed away. poured into the rice. 2 Wash rice a second time. Rub
The traditional Filipino way of Rice is the principal ingredient in dishes the grains against each other.
Reserve the liquid of the second
measuring water for cooking rice is to such as bring he, cooked with turmeric, and
washing in a bowl.
lightly place the tip of the middle finger paella Valenciana. Arroz coldo, literally
on the surface of the washed rice (it "hot rice", IS rice porridge flavored with
should barely make a dent) and add water ginger and chicken or ox tripe (go to}.
up to the first joint. Scientists may insist Stnangag, day-old rice fried with garlic,
that every finger is different, and every has been gaining notice from foreign
rice variety requires a different volume chefs, who like its garlic flavor and aroma.
of water to cook properly, but somehow, In Iloilo, ka/kag, small dried shrimps called
the method works, and traditional cooks a/among, is preferred to garlic.
swear by it. Rice can be made into wine, such as the
On the Filipino table, rice is always topuyof the Cordillera, the mountainous
eaten as accompaniment to something region In North Central Luzon. Tapuy is a
else, usually a viand. The exceptions to key feature in the rites of the indigenous
this are desserts and porridges, such as people of that area .
champorado.

" FeLce Sta. Maria. The Governor General's


Kitc:hen, p. 26.

RIce rooked I~ a wo n coconut frond ,s railed puso


~causr II r...,mbl ... the h ar\.

Branding Our lood I 41


The PIJI' ppines is famous too for tile To complement gril'ed fish, fermented
s llpendous rice erraces of Bal"aue, r ce with shr'mp or fish called buro or
unr"valled by the other rice terraces In bolo-bolo IS served alongside.
the Asian reg ,on. There are many varieties Rice can be made into a variety of
of rice found In the Philippines, from kokomn or cakes. There are a multitude of
the highlands to the lowlands, which rice cake varieties, shapes, wrappers, ways
15 one reason the International Rice of coo lng, and names. Kakonm is usually
Research Instl ute decided 0 base i self eaten as snac in the morning, or In the
In he country. From natIVe to hybrid to a f ernoon for meflendo.
organically grown, these are some of e Rice is also medicinal. The water that
rice as been bOi ed In is used to treat
colic and s 0 ac problems In babies. It IS

organ c red st:c f rice {malag It] also gi en 0 adlll s in the form of lugow,
or ;a e ed-down rice.
2 red bran {unoy]

3 Kamuros
4 combira jon 0 1,2, a d 3

5 blac' rice

6 Cagayan Cal orma

7 red r ce ( anm pula)


8 red and blac smulog

9 S IC whl e nce {malaq I }

10 bro ~r rice

II ~ loqr05O
'2 Dmorodo
13 I oqr05O sa Bu angm
14 Duman
15 Pn p q
Sj langag
Fried Rice
efl eve' f ). he gr Jrp. 'ened 'r c. Wit" lie < n "'" / I,

) r e )f a rl f· ent fiJ C and ar )mi.!. )f a "c . morning gc c c.


') epn,' Fe,nardez. "Bre K '~e Fa't
r TiK m;
,a y 5 r.ed "'e l fa c ')mblnerl IV tf- egg' af'( a' eat sur~ a~ t Def t 'P" I
t.;.'
Uk. 'en N"ry,S'1 au. agee cr k ) )pre' mllkhn (1 rllnq ryo /'''''''7u<
k" )wn ~'i aC'ony'" ,-tup' tlq '\ tap" + ""onqoq + itlog ThLJ'. tordog.

Prep r
Sprinkle a little water over the cold Sinongog is best d
ma e from I ft
cooked rice and mash with one's steamed rice that h beaver
as een allow d
hand to loosen every gra in. stand overnight. Freshl
. .
. e to
Ymade nce II t
mOist. and smangag made f . 00
2 Crush the garlic cloves. be mushy. rom thll Will

Make sure the nee grains do not Itick


Cookmg together by mashing them enough to
loosen. but not to crush.
In a frying pan. saute garlic in
The garliC should be browned. but
coo Ing oil untilligh brown. never burnt.
2 Add rice. Using 2 meta l turners Distribute the cooking oil evenly,
(wooden If using non sltc~ pans). mix brown the garlic in oil first, then mix the
e nee Jery well and coo until the oil well IOta the rice before frying. Fry the
nee IS hgh I toasted . nce without adding more oil.

3 Season With sa lt. Mix well. Serve


immed la ely. hot.
Appeti zers

Filipinos do not eat by courses, so the concept of the


appetizer as known in the West does not translate exactly.
The traditional Filipino belief is that even small tastings
will ruin the appetite, rather than enhance it. Instead, the
usual practice is to sip hot broth to prepare the stomach
for the meal ahead. R staurants fr qucntly provide broth
before the meal.

Pu/uton, the close t tran la ion of "appe izer", is actually


far closer in can p a Spanish tapas, smull tastings best
washed down /;lith al oholic beverag s.

By today, of tours ,man Filipinos are familiar with


the concep of app tiz rs, not least because they have
for years app ar d as a s para e category on restaurant
menus. These menus tellingly use either the Englisn word,
or the Tagalog construct pampagana" (literally, "to whet
U

the appetite"), rather than pulutan, which remains bonded


o its original meaning.

1 f l'
Cured Beef
f, to the woo d er lJ·dpldCedl"gl,<se of"'lnP re um tlvtc ke p
~ears
I

T /I In SI ·msh, re elf n9 I de the <ma,1 morsP,s of fond, urh a, 01 P )r <IJre


pa... came to inC u . T
floes au t in tine' the mean,ng ., 5 ",oulrt put or th e ds as a 9 'Olty to the, c "omer " d, we
sausages and ~am. t"at pu_ ,can h
enre of Spanls 00. f d In the Philippines, whether or nu' hp ollqlr,,'
know
evolved ,nto the tapas g
S anlsh the word tapa . . . . has mutated to Signify a means of prese' vmq ~rv bee
meaning evolved from. p , h ar uably more flavorful than the Wester" variety.
tapa IS rea II ya ty pe of lerky, althoug 9

There are two ways to prepare beef tapa: dry More fatty selections f
. I ' Or mOist
and crisp or moist and chewy. Both versions inC ude rib eye. Another beef . tapa
mar bl Ing IS neck Or botok M part With even
' .
can be served as an appetizer, or pulutan, '. . any other
including venison, corobo ( meats,
or as a meat course with rice for breakfast, o Water bUff
meat, and some varieties of p k ala)
combined with a fried egg and day-old fried . Or ,can alsabe
made Into tapa.
rice (sinangag, PAGE 44). Sawsawan for tapa
It is best to have a butCher cut th
is usually vinegar with crushed garlic. .
conSistency. He will probably us ebmeat for
For dry tapa, Besa and Dorotan ' suggest ' . e a uttertly
cut like pail/a rd. Sukiyaki cut will al
drying the pieces of beef by training an SO Work
The meat is sliced evenly at a thickness 0;
electriC fan on them for one hour. For a
Slice the sirloin across the grain into '12 cm I '/4 in, and it can be POunded and
moist tapa, keep the meat In the marinade
pieces with a thickness of 1f2 cm I '/4 flattened with a wooden mallet (preferably
longer and skIp the drying phase. The meat
inches. With diamond-shaped teeth). Pounding
should be sauteed in a lit Ie oil and cooked
tenderizes meat, especially less choice cuts
2 Pound the slices with a metal or qUickly. It should not be overcooked, so it
by helping break down connective tissue. '
wooden mallet. Do this at least 3 remains tender.
If slicing meat for tapa at home, It helps
times on each side of each slice.
to partially freeze the meat so it IS firm
3 Crush, peel and mince garlic. Meat chOICes for tapa enough to slice evenly and thinly.
Sinoll'l is he most averful lean meat chOice.
4 Mix together the salt, sugar, and garlic
Top round IS a richer (more fa ) option. Bottom
then combine with the meat slices.
round ISiess tender. Ana her op Ion IS beef belly
sliced very hinly and dried sligh Iy. Fatty beef Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan, Memo"" of
C
should be fr,ed r.e bacon, to express the 011. Philippine Kitchens.
It is important to dry the meat slices to
make these crunChy. The traditional way
is to dry the pieces under the sun. In thiS
recipe, drying is done in the oven.

Preheat oven to 2oo' C I 4OQ'F.


2
Brush a baking tray with the cooking
011. Arrange the meat slices on the tray
making Sure not to Overcrowd them. '
3
Place tray inside preheated oven. Turn
oven off after , 5 minutes but keep
traf Inside for another, 5 minutes to
dry the meat. At his stage the meat
IS ready to b f '
. e rled for eating or kept
Inaseaedb'
f ag In he refrigerator or
reezer for future use,

.....UIU1r:g

Fry mea sli('tS


o Ora n on a rack.
illi)' J 9
Vinegar-cured Mackerel
Many (Urture'- have VefSlOr") (l" fIsh rUft."d/cookeCl n \: el H fer xlmple the <;pani~r C"'vlcne,
. '''ent (n of klnll< w r our C', ndry ~lstOry ";;,, the
n
an., th- Sonc navlan grav1ux The first w·,t'e
ICCQUnt cf Piqafe'ta, chronicler of Magell," s voyage

7 Wash the fish cubes with half of


l-
the vinegar (1/2 cup 1 120 mil. Strain, Use only the freshest fish, thoroughly
e ~ < discard the vinegar then set the fish cleaned. Only the highest quality
aside. Washing the fish cubes with white vinegar should be used, such as
1411 ee'l '
the vinegar cures the raw fish and will native vinegars made from coconut,
rrall r l pll lper turn them opaque. Keep the remaining sugarcane, and sugar palm. Prepare only
fresh vi nega r. in nonreactive bowls and dishes such as
!11 ) QUit
glass or ceramic.
J rr ac ell' It ~ .. ' 8 If using fresh mature coconut, grate
to yield 1 cup 1 240 ml cream.
• u~ L
9 In a nonreactive bowl, combine the The most common kinilaw is made from
t vr ar grated coconut and the remaining tanguigue (mackerel), although most
vinegar. Extract the juice then strain into larger fish can certainly be made into
I r a glass bowl. If using prepared coconut kinilaw. Ma/osugue (marlin), bang us
(milkfish), and espodo (swordfish). Fish
milk, mix this with the remaining
should be as fresh as possible, and firm.
vinegar.
p Q Prepare by filleting, then cutting into
2-cm 1 3/.-in cubes.
qrJu 1r
Assembly Small fish like tombon (sardines),
~ r y p ~ r , uyu t sapsap (slipmouth), dilis (anchovy),
To the bowl with the coconut/vinegar
especially the bigger variety called
juice, add the fish cubes, shallots,
tuwakang, can also be made into klm/ow.
ginger, chilies, red bell pepper, salt, and Remove the head and spine by running
o pepper. Toss gently but thoroughly. one's thumb along the spine from the tail
Peel and slice the shallots. 2 Chill in the refrigerator. to the head, separating the skin from the
bones and effectively filleting the fish.
2 Peel and chop the ginger.
Small bones can then be indiVidually
3 Seed and chop the green finger Serving suggest. picked out and the head detached.
chilies. Transfer the kinilaw to a platter. Garnish
with the onion rings and siling labuyo.
4 Cut bell pepper in half lengthwise.
Remove and discard the stem and
white membranes. Slice red pepper
into fine strips.
5 Peel and slice the onion into rings.
6 Remove the skin and remove the
bones of each fillet. Cut Into 2-cm 1

l/hn cUbes.

small r d 001"'" (S/buyas nu pu/aJ


Pill 1 U
Wrappea Stea'l·ed lJ<:>hrooms
i no to wnp (H' nr dr ntlf1 ~-3n' 01 COl JnrJ earn It In 1 ') (Iwn ir Ice
01 e fectrve y e]1 II th( JUI P 'd 'p.rt < fr"h .roma t the food.
Banana eove' par.

Ir 11'
u' ()'11 Pour water into a pot and heat. Steam Use a clean, damp towel to thoroughly
the parcels over medium heat for 5 remove any visi ble soil from the
minutes, after which remove them mushrooms. Do not wash the mushrooms
1t from the pot. becau se they will absorb water, lose
flavor, and discolor.
pI qQ lUrl ~ (Or 2 Cook just in time to serve at the Passing the banana leaf quickly over
~ pes arara lee ve~ -~d 'plre l table. an open flame softens it, making it pliable
c+ Inq f '(Ol,' t'lr. rack • enough to fold.

-u~~ I ~ )\) I" \I'i +(Or


For ind ividual serving, cut and remove the Native mushrooms abound after a
sp ine/string, but do not open the packet. thunderstorm. This is why some native
Garnishing Arrange each parcel on a plate with lime, mushrooms are called kid/at kabute,
8 c r r~)n wr1g(O ) l I ""'I lemon wedges, or ca/amans; halves to literally "lightning mushrooms". In
h squeeze over the mushrooms. the Bicol region, mushrooms called
kurakding, fine as pencil shavings, are
Parce ls shou ld be opened at the table and
found on the trunks of trees after the
the mushrooms eaten hot. rains. Its flavor, it is said, is comparable
Remove stems of mushrooms. Wipe to the Italian porcini. Other mushrooms
both the mushroom caps and stems that can be cooked alone or in a mix are
with a damp cloth and slice into bite- abalone, straw, oyster, shiitake, banana,
size pieces. portobello, and domesticated button
mushrooms.
2 Toss the mushrooms and stems in salt
and black pepper.

3 Cut banana leaves into 6 (21 x 21 cm


I 8 x 8 in) pieces. Pass the banana
leaves quickly over an open flame. hydrated jew's ear or tree ear (Auriculo flO

4 If using the banana leaf sp ine, trim aUflcula-judat)


first then cut 31-cm I 12-in long 2
chanterelle {Cantharellus clbarius}
strips. You will need 6 pieces. If using fresh shiitake {lentmuS edades}
3
string or twine, do the same. cloud ears, wood ears, dried black fungus
4
S Place a handful of mushrooms in the (tengang dago)
center of each banana leaf and fold in 5 dried shiitake
the 4 sides, each side overlapping to oyster {Pleuratus ostreotus}
6
close the parcels. Secure each parcel kurakdmg
with the banana spine string. The Agofl CUS bisparusi
8 button or champignon {
fi nished parce l should be 10 x 10 cm I
4 x 4 In.

. rs I Ij}
pork Barbe u
Grilled Skewered Pork
II as nH~dI3, Clnd a<;, '- )tJplp CI f t rhe
·dday snack> as we
k barbecue IS a fdvor'te for ml
b e IS ~.to threa db I te c;lze
-
piece') (f pOI k t utt Iko Ifn, . 0
Por. f maklno pork bar ecu flavor and ,heen to th "8n me, It 1<
traditional way 0 . - t h a piece of fat to qlve
a bamboo skewer starting WI h as needed. and serve hot
k barbecue In bate es.
best to coo

On the day
6 Soak bamboo skewers in water for Prepare the charcoal I ..
at least 1 hour. This ensures that the charcoal shoUld be re~r ~~'Ihng Tht
skewers will not burn while the meat flames_ t Without
is grilling_ 2 Bring the excess marinade t
7 Remove marinated pork slices from for basting_ 0 a boil
the refrigerator_ 3 Grill for 4 .
_ minutes, basting
8 Thread marinated pork slices onto occaSionally,. then rotate and glill
each bamboo skewer by doing the another 4 minutes (8 minutes total).
following: 4
m Start grilling just before serving. Do
L
not overcook; serve immediately.

Serve as appetizer or with rice as a


The day before meat course with otcharo (PAGE 205) as
The pork should be frozen. Have the accompaniment.
butcher slice the pork into bacon-thin
long pieces_ For the belly, trim the
a Take one end of the slice then thread
onto the sharp end of the skewer.
slices so there is an equal distribution
of fat and meat. Cut both belly and The recipe featured here came about
after many experiments to achieve a
shoulder slices into 10 x 2.5 cm I
tender barbecue even when cold, and to
4 x 1 in rectangular pieces_
have the fat needed lor taste but thinly
2 Peel and slice th;: yor:;;: ~:,inly_ sliced and evenly distributed so that the
3 Cut the chilies into 3 pieces_ heat from the coals melts the fat away.
., the maronade
It is important to b01
4 In a bowl, make the marinade by - It- for bas t lng, to destroyany
before uSing
combining garlic, chilies, soy sauce, b Twist the slice and thread onto the bacteria_
brown sugar, and soda_ skewer again_
S Add the pork slices to the marinade_
Cover the bowl and refrigerate
overnight.

c Each slice should be tWisted four


times to ensure that the fat is evenly
spread around the skewer.
d Each skewer should have four slices of
pork, alternating the belly pieces and
the pork shou der.
l1rimp Jk
Crisp Shrimp Fritters
r- of Like V CflSp s, ImO 'fitters th;: come . all - P Snre
There ~,. rriJry v eO rSt' I f
• l. ~L'e It retains Its c'lspress evpn w ,~n C Ie e l ... ter r{lnf) .
IS uc;;ed "the rec pe, rlfet; )

Heat a 26-cm I la-in frying pan and Ukoy should be Crunchy F


fill with oil until 2 cm I 3/4 in deep. just before serving Uk' ry the fntt~~
. °Y Will r
Temperature of oil for frying should be crunchy as long as 't . emaln
I IS not ke t
covered container. P In a
175°C I 350°F.
The preferred shrimp varie"
2 Scoop up a tablespoon of the mixture, . 'f IS the
greasy back shnmp (suwohej C
. ommerClal
making sure that there are 5 pieces ukoy uses a/among very smallsh .
. ' nmps,1n
of shrimp in it. Drop the mixture into a thin batter. These have a longer shelf
the hot oil and press with a spatula to hfe. If hve shrimp are not available, seled
flatten into fritters of 3-in diameter. firm, fresh shrimp with the heads firmly
Fry until golden brown and crisp. attached. Never soak shnmps in water.
Make sure to have the shrimps on the Ukay can also be made with shredd~d
top of each mound. green papaya or squash.

3 Drain on a paper towel.


4 Repeat process with the remaining
m xture, frying a few pieces at a
Wash shrimps. Trim the sharp part time.
of the whiskers. Remove the head
for larger shrimps. Place shrimps in a Serving 5 gg st on
bowl.
Place shrimp ukoy fritters on a platter.
2 Peel the sweet potatoes. Cut into Serve with vinegar infused with crushed
julienne strips. garlic and ch:li.
3 Crush, peel, and mince the garlic.
4 Place the sweet potatoes, egg white,
and garlic in the bowl with the
shrimps.
5 Mix cornstarch with the cold water.
Add to the shrimp mixture.
6. Se.ason mixture with salt and pepper.
MIx. well. Drain to remove excess
liqUid.
bad>hnmpl
SLlwoht (grrasY
Thrice-cooked pork
Ong nJt m "am rarpan~ J, SIS g has r e e the ( Flliplr CUI' ne Pork e s, cheek"
and OW s -e f 'ely chopped, bOIled gr ed, dnd IZ. '9 on a hot plate Tre word , ISI 9
< said to rave onglnally had ornet og 0 w't eat rq sour frUit., d pped In SaIt or vinegar
Whlch pregrant WOr1en did to wa-d aff morrlrq" k e« l..J e ' the word SIS Ig was used to refer'
r

. and served as pu/utar How It evolved Into the pres en t day dish
to solidified fat cet nto cubes . IS
anybody's guess. Some vanatlOns add a raw egg over th sizzling dish.

In a stockpot, place water, pineapple Cut the meat as small as possible (brunoisl
JUice, salt, peppercorns, chicken liver and In uniform sizes.
and pi~'s head pieces. Cover stockpo~ Liver thickens the mix and adds
flavor.
and bnng to a boil, then immediately
reduce to simmer. Continue to cook
until meat is fork tender but not too
Lechon kowo/i (PAGE 109) or fresh pork
tender so the ear cartilage is still on
belly, cut uniformly into small cubes,
the crunchy side, about 45 minutes to
can be substituted for pig's head. Other
, hour.
variations use chicken, tuna, milkfish, or
2 Remove pork and chicken livers tofu. Chop and add the boiled chicken
from stock pot and cool to room liver and seasonings of c%mansi juice,
temperature, Discard the liquid. chopped onions, vinegar, salt and pepper,
and the chilies.
3 Grill the pork over charcoal until the
skin becomes brown and crisp. (
4 Chop the pork and the chicken livers The green finger chili (siting hobo) is used
Into small cubes. Place in a bowl. whole in dishes such as sinigong and
poksiw. It is the main ingredient in the
5 Mix in the ca/amansi or lemon Juice, gu/oy no /oda of the Bicol region, famous
chopped onions, white vinegar, salt, for its hot, spicy cuisine.
Carefully pass the deboned pig's head pepper, and the chilies. The red finger chili is hardly used in
over an open flame to remove any the north of the country but is a part of
visible bristles. Wash and cut into 4 6 Just before serving, heat the skillet to
the cooking of the southern regions.
pieces. sizzling hot. Put the meat mixture in.
Bird's eye chili (siting /abuya), is an
This IS the third cooking stage where
2 extremely hot chili used in the cooking of
Peel and chop the onions finely, the meat becomes browned a bit and the Bicol region as well as in the cuisine
gets an added crunch. of the Muslims, many of whom originate
from Mindanao. Elsewhere, si/mg /abuya
S rvrng Suggest 0 is used mainly to spike dips such as
vinegar, soy sauce or fish sauce.
Sisig is served on a hot sizzling skillet with
The leaves of the chili plant are also
halved ca/amansi and chopped chilies on used 10 dishes such as Pinatisang Manak
the Side. (PAGE 132) and specially, Tina/ang Manak

(PAGE 69).
AW
Soups

Soup is an integral part of the Filipino meal and is generally


served at the same time as the other dishes.

When served ahead, the broth is sipped hot, to prepare the


stomach for the meal ahead.

Broth is also poured over rice, a practice followed by many


Filipinos who like th ir ric moisten d.
Seafood Sinigang
Seafood in Soured Broth
Doreen G. Fernandez argued that s'ed' c' odaVa. slIl,ganq IS the dISh "most repre'entat ve
of Filip,no taste. We like the slight Y boded. the slightly Soured" [Doreen G. Fernandez. "Why
Sin/gang?". In So rap.] ' .
BaSIc simgong broth IS rice washing. or hugos bigos, to which a SOuring agent has been added. The
sour flavor can come from a fruit or leaves (WTE~ ON P'Gf 37), and every region has its preference.

5 pC5 I 400 9 t0r>1atoe5 Cooking


Tips
1 pc 180 gonion Pour the water or rice washing into a The ideal prawn for this dish is 10 cm I 4
big pot.
in from head to tail, about 20 pieces to a
300 g prawns of 50 g each (6 pieces)
2 Put in the tomatoes and onion. Boil kilo, or 50 g each. A flaVOrful option is the
500 9 mackerel (tanguigue) steak over medium heat. river prawn called ulong. which stores its
roe in its very large head.
1 pc 1150 g white radish (!abanos) 3 Add the prawns and cook for about 2 The prawns are cooked in their shell
minutes. Remove the prawns. When to preserve color and texture. They are
10 pes yard-lang beans (sitaw)
cool, peel the prawns, leaving the nevertheless best peeled before serving.
1 bunch 1150 g water spinach heads and tails intact, and set aside. Deveining the prawn with the shell
(kangkang) on: Bend the head towards the tail. In the
4 Add the radish and yard -long beans,
open space between two shell segments.
6 '/2 cups 11.6 I ters water or rice which take longer to cook. Simmer
pierce the meat with a toothpick below
washing (SEE PAG, 41) over low heat until vegetables are
the vein. Slowly lift to take out the
3 to 4 tbsp extract sour jUice froIT' tender, but the beans are still green. whole vein.
unripe tamar nd frUit (SEE PACE 207) or Remove vegetables from the soup. To It is important to serve sinigong
45-60 g tamarind powder stop the cooking, transfer onto a pre- steaming hot, yet the vegetables must
cooled metal tray and chill. still be green and the prawns and fish
2 g'een finger chilies
must not be overcooked. Since fish cooks
S Just when ready to seNe, bring soup
1 tsp salt or 1 tbsp fish sauce (pat/5) to a boil. quickly, add it at the last minute. The
green vegetables may be blanched and
6 Add the mackerel. added just before serving.
Preparation
7 Return the radish and yard-long beans
Fish for sinigang
Cut the tomatoes into quarters. to the pot. Add the water spinach.
Bongus belly is cut in half for sin/gang.
2 Peel and quarter the onion. 8 Season with fish sauce (patis) or salt Since bongus tends to become leathery
to taste. Stir and correct seasoning to when overcooked, try removing the fish
3 Wash prawns and devein, leaving taste. from the broth as soon as it is cooked, and
shells on (SEE TIPS). serve it separately. This also ensures that
9 Add the tamarind extract or powder.
4 Cut the mackerel into 2.S-cm 1 1-in the belly does not break into pieces. FISh
thick pieces. 10 Add the green finger chilies. heads-salmon, tonguigue (mackerel) and
talakitak (salt water jack)-are delrclous;
5. Peel and slice the radish diagonally 11 Before turning off the fire, return the
these should also be cut in half.
Into 1-cm 1'/4-in thick pieces. prawns to the pot.

6 ~ut the yard-long beans into 8 cm 13


In long pieces. Serving suggestion
7 Arrange the prawns, mackerel:. and
Select the water spinach leaves with
the small stems. Discard thicker main vegetables in a seNing dish or individual
stems. Wash leaves well. bowls. Add broth and seNe piping hot
SeNe with fish sauce and halved calamansl
as dipping sauce (sawsawan).
pork Sinigang
pa r'k I
On soured Broth
theast AS! In cultures. T~e Maley' an slnlqan" h ,
f Ind ,n other sou I
t7Puno He aI50 Ol d "5 the rounded las opposed to e ongated) komlas
v3(13r1tS ~J f s '1 ' I d name) an lI_
the SJme Iwpe an d with seafood, or meat such as beef and pork, but
prdctll' IIY _'« -an be ma e
, nQ aQent. )/",gon L I -k n soup but It IS called slIlompa/ukonq mono" not
a" ,r ... ~lllJ - , I ' tly soured C1H.: e .
-h 'ken - Thete IS a 5 19s1 from the young leaves of the sompa/oc
nc ver L (l , .
or tamannd. SiniCfon9 llways
Ilq fhe S"ur taste COllle. d t 11 a purely vegetanan 5tl1lgong 15 a good addition to
stn,</o . Aithouqh not tfa I lon, ,
ndudes "eQetables. -
thr repN OIFt'

Serves 6
:ooking T·p.
500 pork nbS Put the pork ribs and water in a pot. To keep pork tender, alwa 5
Bring to a boil and immediately reduce It In plain, lukew y stanto,""
5 pes I 400 q tomatoes . arm Water j

to a simmer, 82 °C I 180°F. Remove the washmg without salt Or ,,~


· , and bn
I pc 180 q orion scum that rises to the surface. Iaw simmer (below b '1' ngIt to,
Oling) Po ' ,_
5hauld be Si mmered f ' .r, ""~/
2 pes 1200 9 small taro (gabi) 2 Put in the tomatoes and onions. Or along tim
the fat becomesgelatinous ~ unl'
1 bunch I 150 g water spinach Simmer until pork is tender. Add the
Select pork belly (liemp~) tnat 1\ n
{kong kong) or sweet potato tops taro until cooked. Remove pork and more than one inch in tn' ,. ot
l C~ness and
(tallJos ng kamote) taro. t he meat and fat are Spread '
. evenly. 10
6'12 cups 11.6 liters water or rice 3 To remove excess fat from the broth, cut pork Untfofmly into 1-incn tub'lfor
washing (SEE AGE 41) chill the soup in the refrigerator a best presentation, partially freeze tht
meat first.
3 t~ 4 tbsp extract sour jUice from follow ing ch ill ing guidel ines on page
24. Pork ribs are best presentedwhentu;
unripe tamannd f'uit (SEE PAre 207) or
evenly and uniformly as well. Evenly CUI
45 to 60 q tamari~d powder
4 When ready to serve, bring soup to a meat also ensures even cooking.
2 green finger chilies (sil'ng boil.
pOflgsigaflg)
5 Return pork and taro to the pot.
1 tsp salt or 1 tbsp fish sauce (pot's}
6 Add the water spinach.

Preparation 7 Add the tamarind powder or tamarind


extract.
Cut the pork ribs across the bone into
8 cm long and 1112 cm thick I 3 in x 3/4 8 Season w ith sa lt or fish sauce. Stir
in pieces. and correct season ing to taste.
2 Quarter the tomatoes. 9 Before turn ing off the fire, add the
3 Peel and quarter the onion. green finger chilies.

4 Peel and quarter the taro.


ServO 9 suggestior
5 Trim the water spinach by picking the
Arrange the pork, taro, and the water
leaves with the tender stems. Discard
main stems. Wash well. spinach in a serving dish or individual
bowl. Add broth and serve piping hot. Serve
with fish sauce and halved c%mans; as
dipping sauce (so wso wonj .

.. sweet pot" to tops Itolbas n9 komorej



Beef 1f 11
Beef in <)ouyea Br It
Sn' keI "flC bpnt-1f'I hOlt
0
f';1 1 c f~ fc r )'nlIjO!ltJ. A 01 h
. r-o"eles~ C'ht rt nbc
opt1or c;

( 0 I
500 9 beef tore ir ;hort r )s or rrl<ket i
In a deep pot, put the co ld water Like pork, beef sinigong is started in
~ pes I 400 g tomate es and the beef pieces. Bring to a boi l plain, lukewarm water without salt, and
2 pes 50 q "'edlu!" -Slze( on C 1S and immediately reduce to a simmer brought to a low simmer (below boiling).
B2'C I lBO·F. Remove the scum that Do not use rice washing (hugos bigos) Or
lC yard ong beL 1S (5itlw) rises to the surface. Add the tomatoes the broth will be too thick.

2 eggplants, abou' 15 C'1l I 6 Ir and onions. Simmer until beef is very Beef, especially with bones, is best
tender. presented cut evenly and uniformly.
6"2 cups I 1 'i liters c'Jld water Beef sinigang can be quite fatty. This
2 Add yard-long beans and eggpla nts. can be avoided with a simple procedure.
1 '0 4 tbsp I 45 to 60 q tarn,,' 'ld Simmer over low heat until vegetab les When the meat has become tender, turn
~owder L' ex'ract sour Jl< ce froM are tender but still crisp. Remove off the heat and allow the soup to cool.
unripe '<~arind f'l< t (>1 Ar. 207)
vegetables from the soup. To stop the The fat will rise to the top. The dish
2 Qree~ fnger c~lhes f5i/iflg (X1ngsigang) cooking, transfer onto a pre-cooled can then be placed in the refrigerator,
metal tray and chill . allowing the fat to solidify, making it
1 tsp salt 'Jr • tts, fsh sauce (patis) easy to remove.
3 To remove excess fat from the broth,
1 tsp )epDPr chill the soup in the refrigerator
following chilling guidelines on page
p ~ 2~
Cut the short ribs or brisket into 4 cm Just when ready to serve,
I 11/2 in cubes. (The butcher can do
this neatly.) Bring soup to a boil.
2. Quarter the tomatoes. 2 Season with salt or fish sauce. Add
pepper. Stir and correct seasoning to
3. Peel and quarter the onions.
taste.
4. Cut the yard-long beans into 8-cm I 3 Add the tamarind extract or powder.
3-in pieces.
4 Return the vegetables.
5. Cut stem of the eggplants. Slice
lengthwise then crosswise into 5-cm 5 Before turning off fire, add the green
I 2-in pieces. finger chilies.

Serving suggestion
Arrange beef and vegetab les in a serving
dish or an individual bowl. Add broth and
serve piping hot. Accompany with fish
sauce (potis) and halved co/amansl as
sowsowon.

lam.rlnd (sompo[oc)
Chick
Chicken Stewed ill Coe or lit Water
Chicken f~'maAo.'. ...:hiden ~ooked In '01 H ut "". r,orll (J ed In II 110. It cJ('lt OF"lJI 'I r- Okf'rj n

an uprlg hI b,,mboo contdlne' (with Ii 01, It t e t It'. m W· !:Ian. Ild ledf I)\lpr) f'}( In ci cocunut
shell over a charcoal fire The coconul wate· give' '~I C( weetl')r 1 t _ tc the broth

Coo~ ing
1 I 500 9 whole chicken breast, bone I~
In a preheated pot, saute garlic, To make a clea r broth, reduce the
2 cloves 110 g garlic ginger, and onion in oil. temperat ure t he moment it comes to a
boil, to ba rely si mmering. If boiled too
1 thumb-sized pc I 25 g ginger 2 Add the chicken breast, lemon grass, long , the broth becom es cloudy and the
and peppercorns. Season with fish meat shrinks and dries out.
1 pc I 80 gonion
sauce. Free-range native chicken is al ways
2 tbsp I 30 ml cooking oil_ preferred, because it is more f lavourful.
3 Add the chicken broth and coconut
It is often necessary to cook it longer,
2 stalks I 60 g lemon grass water. As soon as the broth begins
however, as the meat is tougher t han the
to boil, reduce to sim mer until the
2 cups 1'/2 liter coconut water and commercial variety.
chicken meat is cooked . Remove
1 cup I 250 g coconut meat (SEE PAGE
chicken meat from the bone and slice
206) ~-----------------------~
into strips.
'/4 tbsp I 3 g peppercorns
4 Strain the broth and place in the
'/4 cup I 60 ml fish sauce (patis_) _ refrigerator to allow fat to solidify.
Remove fat.
6 cups I 1.5 liter chicken broth (SEE PAGE
26) Just before serving,
4 stalks I 40 g spring onions Return broth to the fire and bring to
a boil. Return the chicken strips and
2 stems I 125 g chili (sili) leaves
coconut meat.
4 young coconut shells (OPTIONAL)
2 Adjust seasoning with fish sauce.

Preparation 3 Add chopped spring onions and chili


leaves and serve immediately.
Wash the chicken.
2 Crush, peel and mince the garlic. Se 'ving suggestIon
3 Peel and chop the ginger. Serve piping hot in individual coconut
4 Peel and chop the onion finely. shells. Serve with the cover.
5 Cut off and discard the lemon grass
leaves. Pound the bulb or the white
part.
6 If using young coconut, crack open
each buko at the top. Reserve the
water and scrape the meat. (See
quantities needed above.) Reserve the
she ll and the top.
7 Clean the spring onions and chop.
8 Remove chili leaves from their stem.
Wash the leaves and discard stems.
g,nger (Iuya)
Tinola ng dllOk
Chicken Sou p
·1 the national hero of the Phi PP" e , In murtdl, I t nll/anq I1'nnok In hI> nov 'I N /
Dr Jose. R·,za. I t . 0 I
. . the dlch IS served at a party celebrdmg t e prot,,~( nl ,< rel"rn from abroa" fl
Me Tangere ' u" .r
everal years. O
ne of the guesb, the tnar hlh" Demaso, feels I' ,ultpd when he IS ,erved d Ilort I an
S d f a lot of squash and broth, with barely 1 chlder neck and mng, while hie fellow
"compose a . "T
uests were ea ting chicken legs and chlcke.n brea,ts. he fr or felt that since he was an Importont
9 h Id have been given the chOice cuts.
person, he s au

Se[\les 6

1 thumb-sized pc 1 25 g ginger
Cooking
Tips
-- -
In a preheated pan, sa ute ginger, Make sure your guests get chOice cuts!
2 cloves 110 2 garliC garlic, and the onion in cooking oil. Chicken can be either deboned breast or
thighs cut into 1-in cubes.
'h pc 1 40 gonion 2 Add the chicken breast.
The tinolo can be presented in a small
V2 1 250 g green papaya 3 Season with fish sauce. Add the green papaya. Cut the top off the papaya
chicken broth and boil. Reduce heat to allow a cavity for the soup. Remove
2 tbsp 1 30 ml cooki~ o_il_ _ __
and simmer until chicken is cooked. the seeds, replace the other half, then
-2 tbsp 1 30 ml fish sauce (patis) blanch the whole papaya until tender, but
4 Remove the chicken breast and cool. not soggy. The blanched papaya should
1 500 g chicken~reast, bone-in Debone. Carefully cut meat into 2.5- be hot when filling it with the soup. A
cm 1 1-in cubes. Set aside. well-chosen papaya, even when green,
10 cups 1 2'/2 liters water or chicken
broth (SEE PAGE 26) 5 Strain the broth and return to the will add sweetness to the broth. Soaking
the green papaya in rock salt takes away
pot.
2 tsp 110 g salt the bitterness.
6 Just before serving, bring the broth to Leafy vegetables should always be
6 green solo papayas (OPTIONAL, SEE TIPS)
a boi l aga in. Add the papaya and cook blanched then added just before se[\ling.
15 g chili leaves until tender. Add the chicken. Adjust In many provinces, the native free-
season ing. range chicken is used. It takes more time
to make the meat tender but the dish is
Preparation 7 La stly, add ch ili leaves.
more flavorful.
Peel and cut the ginger crosswise into
thin slices. Serving suggestion
2 Crush, peel, and mince the garlic. Serve piping hot in individual soup bowls
3 Peel and chop the onion finely. or in so lo papaya bowls with a cover.
Accompany with fish sauce mixed with
4 Peel the green papaya and cut evenly
ca/amansi. Ca/amansi dipping sauce on
into wedges.
page 209.

h leaves of the
Instead of chili leaves, f~n;gay) can be
horseradish tree (m~. h tree groWS eaSily
substituted. The hor~ra I~ are used In many
m backyards and Its ,eave s are tradItionally
soups. Malunggay eave others prodUCe
believed to help lactatmg :e eVidence for
more milk,. and there I~ mofunggay pods
thiS in medical science. h
can also be cooked in brat.

69
Pancit MoJo
Dumpling Soup
f "'h,nf,>e H'tnt! n soup or rgllltlte,; from Moln town. thp oil! It- ne e
rhl v-al d on 0
rnclave ,n /10110.

, Id 'R umr'mQ I C:;rrve G

Cooking - -----
Tips
200 q fr~sh s~ Imp~
In a preheated pot with 1 tbsp / 15 ml
• pc BO Q or on Like all soups the I
oil, saute the other half of the minced ' Oundatio I
Molo should be a gOod n 0, PonN
21)0 g OL a pork onions. Add the garlic. Add the Chicken stock can be made f stOck. Thech'cI"
broth and simmer over medium heat. rom SCratch
, ega soup packs (chicke b . ">'g
Season with salt and pepper. . n acks W'th
skin) Or awhole Chicken Ch ' Out tn,
1 'SC I 3 Q sal 'Jr fish sauce (pat/s) d . Inese-Fllip,
2 In a separate pot with water, cook a d pork ribs to enrich the broth nos
1 'sP,' 9 around black pepper the dumplings, a few pieces at a time, The chicken meat lelt aft .
er bOiling
for about 3 minutes. Remove the can be shredded and used I
0, salad\
18 pes wonton or molo wrapper nOOdle dishes and soups. (ltE PAGE 26~,
dumplings and set aside.
6 cloves I ~O q garlic CHICKEN STOCK 10EAS.) The ground pork 10'
3 In a preheated pan with the remaining the dumplings should be 80 percent :"n
2 spr gs spring or Ions oil, fry chopped garlic over medium and 20 percent fat, in order to be tend".
heat until golden brown. Set aside Chopped water chestnuts are somellm,s
2 tbSp 30 ml oil
and use as garnish. added to the filling lor texture.
6 cups /1 5 litm ('hlcker broth (m Chopped garlic chives {kutchoy} are
PA 26) 4 When ready to serve, bring the broth
traditionally added as a garnish before
to a boil. Put three dumplings onto a serving.
salt ana pepper tn taste soup ladle, dip it into the boiling soup The size of the dumpling or wonlOn
to reheat and then pour into individual wrapper is 7 x B cm 12.5 x3in.
P 'epa ltiol bowls. Uncooked dumplings and chicken soup
stock can be frozen for future use.
Peel and devein the shrimps. Discard Se ving suggestion
the heads and shell trimmings. Mince
the shrimps. Garnish with the fried garlic and the
spring onions. Serve hot immediately.
2 Peel and chop onion finely. Divide into
two Portions.
How to wrap a molo dumpling
3
In a bowl, mix the ground pork, minced
shflmp, and half of the onions. Add
the egg and mix thoroughly. Season
With salt and pepper.

4 Take one wanton wrapper. Place 1


tsp / 5 g of the mixture on the corner
of the wrapper nearest you and fold
Over once Take th
1 e ft: e Corners on the
a d and fight sides, dab with water
n press those ends t h
finished d ' oget er. Place
Umpling On a tray Re eat
the procedure for all the du . I' P
5 C mp Ings.
rUsh, peel, and mince the garlic.
6 Chop the sp( .
In9 Onions for garnish.
ton wrapper
moloar won
Beef Bu 10
Boiled Beef Shank
B~or~le I d beef shark, IS a favollte throuqh0ut the Philippines.
. It is called pakdal in Leyte ,
51 In 1101'1 0 an d Bacolod, and bu!vlo
k UI.' Bat~ngas,
' II' . the province that IS the center of the cattle
an
,ndustry .,n LUlon The . Tagalog
' word bulo!o literally means bone marrow, wh ich IS the prinCipal
mponent of this dish.
flavor co na 18 tangas bulalo uses the beef shin, siloulder, or kneecap without any meat attached
Tradltlo a B . d f' .
to the bone. It 'IS also served without vegetables. ode bee with vegetables IS called 1III09ang
baka, but t he terms are becoming Interchangeable.

Serves 4

Cooking
1 kg beef shank (bu/%) Tips
Place the beef shank pieces in a
3 pes I 240 g onions Slow Cooking is the key to tenderizing
medium stock pot and cover with tough cuts of meat. For better
2 pes I 700 g corn cobs water until it reaches 5 cm I 2 in presentation, more substance and better
above the meat. Bring to a boil and access to the marrow, use the easily
1 stalk spring onion (dohon ng sibuyos)
immediately reduce to a bare simmer, available machine-cut beef shank, with
or leek
82°C I 180°F. different proportions of meat to bone and
enough water to cover meat in pot marrow. It is important to remove the
2 Remove the beef from the water.
marrow just after the first boil or else it
1 tbsp I lag black peppercor~ Pull out the marrow carefully and set will melt away. It can be replaced in the
aside. Retu rn the beef to the pot. bone cavity later, or served separately.
1 tbsp 115 g salt
3 After 30 minutes of simmer, skim off
Preparation and discard the fat and impurities
that rise to the surface.
Trim and cut beef shank into four 25
em 11 in-thick pieces (ask the butcher 4 Add the onions, leeks, and peppercorns,
to do this for you). and simmer for 2-3 hours over low
heat or until meat is fork tender.
2 Peel onions and cut into quarters.
5 Add the corn cob pieces and cook for
3 Remove corn husks and discard. Slice 10 minutes.
each ear of corn into 3 pieces.
6 Add the salt.
4 Trim and cut the spring onions
diagonally into 5 cm I 2 in pieces. 7 Just before serving, remove the beef
shank and replace the marrow. Bring
the soup to a boil and serve piping
hot.

Serving suggestions
Place the beef shank in an individual
bowl. Pour the piping hot broth over
it, and garnish with the spring onions.
Accompany with a d· · sau ce mixture
Ipplng ..
of fish sauce, c%mans!. JUice,
.. and chtll
peppers on the side (PAGES 208-209).
GUL LAD
Vegetables and Salads

Filipino vegetables and salads are not courses in t hemselves ,


but side dishes to accompany viands. Salads are based on
plants such as pak6, or fiddlehead fern, sayote, or th e
Mexican chayote, talong, the thin Filipino egg pl ant, okra,
and kangkong, water spinach or "swamp cabba ge", as the
Americans called it.

The usual dressing is a Filipino vinaigrette of vinegar, water,


salt, pepper, and sugar. Pickled vegetables are sometimes
considered salads because they provide the same sou r
counterpoint to rich recipes and grilled dishes. [Michaela
Fenix, "Redefining the Filipino Salad," in "Country Cooking",
Philippine Daily Inquirer.]

Vegetables are rarely served raw. Traditional Fi lipino


vegetable dishes are not truly vegetarian because bits of
meat or seafood are always added, as well as fish sauce,
fish paste, or shrimp paste.

7)
Mongg
Mung Bean Stew
Ir rT'ore p'OuS t me' every Fr,,'a. thmuo"out t~e vor W<l, • ddV cf 3bst nence 'rom meat "Friday
h"
• bly OJ uchl te the table mvngGIl qu/s.:dc po. ed WI.th p.ak ,IW 110 "do." [Gild,< Cnrdero
leVlra
"0 "Good Hllusekfel'lOq ill P'lgs I JIl, L.1<JlIlld" " PllIlil'llIlIe Fond Ul1d Life.]
Fe' nan" ,

Place mung beans and water in a pot Monggo guisodo, or mung bean stew,
and boil until tender. Add more water has an earthy, rustic flavor. It is often
if needed. As the mung beans cook served with paksiw no bong us (PAGE 120),
a classic pairing.
the outer skins will shed and float-
discard these. Set mung beans in its Old, dried out mung beans are
flavorless, and not worth using. The best
broth aside.
shrimp for this dish are small, about 4 cm
2 In a deep preheated pan, add oil. Saute I 1.5 in from head to tail, or 60 shrimps
onion and garlic until translucent. to a kilo. If not using shrimp stock,
Add diced tomatoes, shrimp paste and substitute chicken stock for the water
fresh shrimps. for added depth of flavor. Don't use beef
stock as it tends to overpower the flavor
3 Pour in the cooked mung beans and
of the beans. The pork cracklings can, of
its broth and the shrimp stock. :;immer course, be omitted for a healthier take.
for 10 minutes. Season with salt and Some prefer the mung beans whole,
pepper. others like them mashed to a smooth
4 Stir in the smoked fish flakes. consistency. The latter can be achieved by
processing the boiled beans in a blender
er t t t Just before serving, or passing them through a ricer.

q .1rK Add the spinach or young bitter gourd


~
leaves, stir once then remove from the
heat.

Crush, peel and mince garlic.


Serve very hot in a serving dish or
2 Peel and chop onion.
individual bowls. Sprinkle with crushed
3 Dice tomatoes into small cubes. pork cracklings if desired.
4 Peel and devein shrimps. With the
heads and shell trimmings make a
shrimp stock for added flavor. (SEE PAGE
207)
5 Debone and flake the smoked fish to
make '12 cup I 120 g.
6 Remove stems of spinach or young
bitter gourd leaves, and discard.

rinoptr (smoked fish)


n aa Ip na

FilIpino Salad
an f- ,'Plfl'; I 0 omhJn tlOn v n t v
Fnlo/7d 9 J(k e (,'I0f] r. " OOlUtl
ns and te t' d
onllThe ve9'ta bl .nd Ie 'y '1ree" r • t f ' nc • te m d. A few ft dn(1 T1dtoe~
<. Jr ex:amp I~1 ' r· .dded <lVI, bu on IV ., ey e ve'y your 9 dnd f'e ,h 1 plrked. Ir
o·,or I 'e e"t Y')~ g, " W:1 hilrve ted prcducr T e "eed <diad v. fldtl Jr Cdn be tappe')
"entra,
With cr hed por k [( aCkllnq , ,rc.ppe' l.,hew ~Jt . 't' !In Ir ds'ed n"e" boby ,hllmps.

q
Arrange all the ingredients without
.. C'Q Water spinach (kangkang)
dressing on a platter and present like a
L50 weet Ilto ("VI1 salad bar or in individual plates/bowls. Malabar spinach (a/ugbati)
Serve with dressings in separate bowls.
2 q w ter plra r fkCJ 1/( I~ 1) Chayote (sayate) tops

4 QJ ( a (srnqk '1)(j I Sweet potato (kamate) tops

• I lOa 't'en r qc. For a salty base Squash tops and flowers (ka/abasa)
All the leafy tops should be steamed until
11 240 q 'orra'o(' sauteed shrimp paste (guisodong
tender but green. Immediately coo l in an
bogoong a/among) page 208.
I. alted C'qq~ 1/1/ q, 1 '110 ('It) or ice bath to stop the cooking.
hardboile j (' 5 sauteed fish paste (guisodong bogoong
Another steaming process is to pan-steam
isdo) page 208.
') q a leafy vegetables inside a covered pan with
For a sweet sour base the water that drips from washing the
p vegetables until slightly cooked but not
sweet-and-sour vinaigrette (Tagalog
limp and still green. Cool immediately in
dressing) page 210.
Trim the stems off the okra and ice water. Set aside.
eggplants. Wash both. honeyed fish sauce dressing (pu/ot at
potis) page 209.
2 Pick the leaves of the sweet potato N

tops and the water spinach and Fiddlehead fern (pak6) tops
discard stems. Wash leaves. Vegetable selections that should be
cook d Very young and newly harvested
3 Peel jicama and cut into matchsticks ampa/aya washed in salt
5 cm x 1 cm I 2 x 1/2 in pieces. • Eggplant (tolong) - Grill on an open
flame and peel with the stem left on. Heart or pith of coconut (ubad). The
4 Peel mango and cut into 1 cm 11/2 in outer layers are used for /umpla and
cubes. • Okra are cooked (PAGE 84)
5 Wash tomatoes. Slice into wedges. • Winged beans (sigarilyas) Jicama (singkamas)
6 Peel the salted eggs. Slice into • Green beans (habichue/as)
wedges.
Yard-long beans (sitaw)

COOking Bitter gourd (ampa/ayo) - Remove the


seeds without breaking the pod ~nd
1 Heat water in a steamer. As soon as cut thinly at an angle. Or If u~mg
the water boils, add okra, sweet potato baby ampalayo, cut lengthWIse Into
tops, and water spinach. Sprinkle with two.
salt. Steam for 3 minutes or until Steam for 3 minutes or blanch i~ li9hdtl Y
tender but still green. Cool right away . t e.
or until. tenbath
er
salted water for 1 mlnu
in an Ice bath. Remove and set aSide. but green. Immediately coolin an Ice
2 Gnll C'ggplants directly over flame to stop the cooking.
UntIl the skin IS charred. Peel when
cool.

79
Fidd lehead Fern Salad
ayo; newly 'Sprouted (t~f"refore {"~1I1 ·prde r } f" 'liP" ~rh a-
d· t for salads are a Iw
The best local Ingre len S k' These have become popu •• n recent ye,H' ann lr aVe lable
those of the fiddlehead fero, or po o. best In cool mountainous area5 and are abundant dUring
d sp ecialty mar~ets. Ferns grow
k
at wee en
the rainy season.

Vinaigrette

Cut off the tips of the ferns, about 4 in


from the top. Discard the tough stems.
Wash and spin dry or wrap in paper
towels.
2 Peel and cut onion into thin wedges.
3 Wash tomatoes and cut into wedges.
4 Peel quail eggs and cut in half.
5 In a bowl, mix all the ingredients for
the vinaigrette.
6 Serve salad in a large bowl or on
individual plates.

nps
Boiled quail eggs can be substituted
IIItn Sd'ted duck. egg, Or the ready-made
bot ed picrled quail eggs.
Fern salad car) be ser'ed wltn peeled
tOiled shr,mps Or topped /11th crushed
ChlChoron.
1 la
Seaweed Sa lad
h <eaweed s He ,,00 subst tu es ~r Ie _e FilipinO ~ ads T~erp are m my k nrls 0'
Iodine' C lable esper'ally " ared> '1e,lr tre se . but tt p f vurr'e all over Ihe c('unlry I the
,eawee~s._ aval
n"ety k 'own as ItJto In t~~ Sl ~'he'r p t of t' p country and ararospr In the n(Jfthern
arape- "
arNS

Prepara

I,asp. sea'reed and discard he roo s


a"d '" ;eO parts.
c; :orr:a oes I r~o /ledges.
S'ce or. ·ons.

,"~a'ge sea ..reec ir. a sa ad bOl"


e"': garro's'" 'I. ~P't tr.e toma~oes and
~· ·~,s.

rega", sa . . , a a
ole'
Ensa ladat g rr C long
Eggplant Sa lad
f preparing eggplant salad is to boil or roast the ta/ong, peel it, mash or slice
traditional way 0 . . ..
The. nd dress it with Filipino vinaigrette.
it IIlto pieces, a

G
Roast the eggplants directly over a Roast eggplants over an open flame Or
te flame until charred. Allow to cool. in the oven. Place the eggplant inside a
31 e e Peel the eggplants and discard the paper bag for 10 minutes. All types of
stems. Flatten with a fork. roasted vegetables are easier to peel after
JrE - fil ~e)De following this procedure.
2 Season with salt and pepper.

6 v Qv'" Lay 1 flattened eggplant on a chopping


1<; 'I ' board. Cut with a 3-in round cookie
, I ') cutter.

2 Top with 1 portion of the onion rings


q r
and the tomatoes.

3 Sprinkle 1 portion of the chopped red


and green bell peppers.
Peel and slice onion into thin rings.
Divide into 4 portions. 4 Top with another round eggplant
piece. Repeat procedure with every
2 Slice tomatoes crosswise into thin
layer of eggplant.
rings. Divide into 4 portions.
5 Finish the layers with an eggplant.
3 Cut the red and green bell peppers.
Discard the inside membranes and 6 Carefully arrange the portions on
seeds. Cut into 1/4-in cubes. Divide individual plates. Drizzle with coconut
Into 4 portions. vinaigrette (SEE PAGE 210). Garnish with
the remaining portions of the red and
4 Chop the spring onions.
green bell pepper, spring onions, and
5 Slice the green finger chili. Discard green finger chili. Serve immediately
the Inside membrane and seeds. Cut or keep refrigerated until served.
crosswise into thin pieces.

eggplant Iralongl
mpia Ubo
Pith Spring Roll

CookIng
1 In a prdIeami saucepan, saute half
the minced garfic. onion, pork, and
shrimps in oil Cook for 10 minutes.
2 Drain thonJughIy the coconut pith
fnIm the waIlr-milk ~ and add
tD the SllIalp. Cook ower modtrate
MIlt for "'0 minutes.

un1pla bad
Fresh Vegeta ble Spr ng Roll
l te Y"naked" Spl :,'q r"II, 'umplOnl) h,,>aa IS <ll" ,nq "II r Inn way of f
lJI I
or, ca~ln Q unwr3pped sausage .filll'qs • p rpf r er ) the <,m 1
way, e g, re10emng to fOod served fre
"0 ne Cavlte rec,pe of IU,mplOn g fresco,
" d k a, lump,an" or'" '''11 In other,ngganlSaog
pi_ hub a d, e of It, Wrapper
Wo copYing. its IngredIent; are' ' diced r,ot H'Jes kamore' monggo sprouts dces, had seen a bIS hop th ro
Ipa rth must ' alway' be present, shrrm le. and 'he JlCP of po un ded shrimps Af' green beans . 51go,,1/05 ' , ugh
I schaal '
'a J annatto color At the open end ot tre 1"",plO peer> a nat
Wni I ,ter Sauteing this I "Ima beans
bfl I ,.',' ve ettuce I f ' . ump lo h
Il, ntn" [ Gilda Cordero Fernando, Cavlte, Shipbuilders' Legacy'" p" ea Sprinkled libe II s auld be a
sit"aro ,In hlflpplOe Food ao d Life, ] ra Y With pawd ered

5 Peel and cut carrot into


e P y~ strips. julienne
If green papaya .
IS not 'I
Q< It 6 Wash and trim green beans and cabbage, Cut th' , aval able, use
• t IS IOta 1 Cm I '/ .
Into thin diagonal strips. cut Lumpio mix ca I 3 In strips,
Ic nasabe II '
2 wrapper. Excess lum i ,ro ed 10 rice
nlon 7 Cut.
. bean curd into 2.5 x 1 cm I 1 x liJ in lumpio wrap po mix can be rolled
Q JI per, stored in ' .
In stripS. Lightly salt. container and f an airtight
, rozen fa f
q fr 'I tr'~ Deep-fry rolls to k r uture use.
II 8 Trim mung bean sprouts. . rna e lumplong .
(f rred spring roll) , pictured
, below, prrto
P Q r. '
9 Drain the chickpeas Peel each '
) (h 1/) cl)(' 11<) and discard skins. . piece

• pre ed bean c r It r\o' 10 Wash .fresh lettuce leaves. Spin dry or


c 5(" 2 L ~ wrap In a clean hand towel.

.5 e 11 Wash and drain salted green papaya


and press to rid of liquid.
12 Ground the dry roasted peanuts
ra' .. 13 Peel and mince garlic.

c 14 Wash cilantro. Discard stems.


15 Prepare the annatto oil. (SEE PAGE 207)
Lumpiang Hubad Garnishings
Cooking
2- n •

In a heated large pan or a wok, fry


the pressed bean curd in oil until light
brown. Set aside,
2 Remove the oil from the pan. Pour in
annatto oil.
3 Saute garlic, ground pork, and
shrimps.
4 Add the carrot, green beans, green
papaya, mung bean sprouts, and
chickpeas, taking care not to overcook
vegetables. Bean sprouts should be
PreparatIon
barely cooked.
1 Peel green pa
add rock paya, grate coarsely and 5 Season with salt and pepper to taste,
, salt· alia t
minutes. ' w a stand for 30
Assembly
2 CrllSh Place some lettuce leaves in a salad bowl. Top
1 p , peel, and mince garlic.
eel and chop OOIOOS. with the lumpia mix, Add the fried wkwa,
4 Serve the lumpia sauce and garnishings
Peel dnd de
(PAGE 212), cilantro, ground peanuts. and
e reads a;: n the shrimps. Discard
s ell trImmings. minced fresh garlic on the side.
181
Gui a aa •
law
SquaSh and Yarc Go'"", In c.oconut Mi lk
n1 coed e q e 1"1 C C IJ
mil. the
T c
aL (] t e t "
t t n dd - , II hp
gre pnt<
H"lf'
e' Ie d
Mo 'F P n ve

Co
Just when ready to serve Cut the squash and the yard-long beans
Heat a pot and pour in oil. Into consistent sizes so they cook evenly.
p
The preferred shrimp variety is the
2 Saute garlic, onion, and to matoes over grea sy back shrimp (suahe).
medium heat.
3 Add the shrimp stock and sq uash an d
simmer for five minutes.
4 Add the coconut milk and let sim me r
for approximately S minutes. Ad d
the beans and continue cooki ng
for another S minutes or until the
vegetables are tender but still firm to
the bite.
S Add the shrimps and give the mixture
a qu,c toss.
6 Season With fish sauce and pepper.
Preparatlo Correct seasonl ng.

Peel and devein the shrimps. Set aside 7 Simmer another minute to cook the
the heads and shell trimmings to shrimps. Serve immediately.
make shnmp stock to add flavor. (SEE
PAGE 207)
S rvmg ugg S Ions
2 CruSh, peel, and mince garlic.
Place the vegetables in a shallow bowl.
3 Peel and chop the on ion. Pour sauce over and serve hot.
4 Chop the tomatoes.
5 Peel the squash. Cut into 1.S-cm I
'12-1 n wedges.

6 Wash yard-long beans and cut into


3-cm 11 '/4-in pieces.
7 If us ng f h
r~ COconuts, extract the
ml t (SU PAC 206)
lnt [ the lrf ,t d,t onally
r , p:
nc oj
)I 11 rd t onlf th
h r dd die" In olon'mlk
F d I, Y
rfJ c er, In I" (om In' C,L The GJ b1 F te",

Crush, peel, and mince the garlic. While fresh gabi leaves are sold in
public markets, packs of dried leaves are
2 Peel and chop ginger finely.
now available, making it convenient to
3 If using fresh mature coconuts, extract produce laing anywhere in the world.
cream and milk. Fresh gabi leaves need to be air- or
sun-dried for a day before use. The stems
4 Chop 2 of the bird's eye chilies. Leave
should be peeled and the leaves shredded
the others whole for garnish. by hand, as the steel of knives in contact
5 Boil the shrimps until cooked. Peel with the leaves alters the flavor.
and discard shells. Set aside. The sauce is cooked first, so all the
flavors are incorporated-the shrimp
paste, salt, coconut milk, and pepper.
Cooking
According to folklore, the coconut milk
In a preheated pan, saute garlic and mixture should never be stirred.
ginger i n oil until fragrant. Add pork Chopping the chilies makes for a
and cook for 10 minutes. Season with hotter laing. Leaving the chilies whole
shrimp paste, salt, and pepper. Add cuts down the "hotness" considerably.

chopped chili peppers and coconut


milk,
2 Add taro leaves and simmer over very
low heat for' hour or until coconut
milk has reduced. Do not stir while
cooking. Pour in coconut cream and
heat for another 2 minutes.

Servi 9 5U 9 st on
Transfer to serving dish and garnish with
whole blrd's eye chili and the shrimps.
Serve hot.

taro (gobl) ,•• \ItS


Pinakbet
Vegetable Stew
r wI'h the
I nr oft t e, '0"
OI)Pp (oJ
" r lbly I clud I 1 PorI
n '1 In t rCr , e th. Itt-r e th qgpla,
c lV~r ~
JU d t e r t, an t~e 'II p oVe1 h
ayofc~o, v
rr F r x • pr dov F ~.. T nq, ~erpl\
OW U l.. c , n ~aa nd
PI ndent

7 Cut off the okra stems then leave Ti


whole. The traditional pinokb
baby eggplants b b et U,e, round~d
S Remove the eggplant stems and cut , a Y okra
ompoloyo left whole F ,and habj
diagonally into 2.5-cm I l-in pieces. If . Or fastel
the eggplants and . cooklOg,
using the small round eggplant, score Ompo/oyo Ihould ,.
cut lengthwise In quart I ' '"
the bottom with a knife. . ers, eavlng t'
stem Intact. ,,~

9 Cut the squash into'.5 x 2.5 cm I 1/1 To ensure that the veget bl
a elale
)( 1 in wedges. cooked but remain firm bl '
, anc" them
ahead of the final cooking Ita
10 Chop he por crae hngs or lechon I . ~
mmedlately cool In an Ice bath to stop
kOl'loli Into 1 5 em I I in squares.
the cooking.
In the recipe. fmh
p
J ead to se e,
Place the grilled eggplant Ina a
o st (' pan, saute for 10 mlnutel to mk . PPCI1;\
easier 0 peel. a e It IWeat ,,~
sp 01 0 er medium

2 nd sa until

5 e
9 ggp n
7
2
e: 9 c
3
op e: on 0
5(: as a s de: d s tapa (
4
48) or lee an awoll (
c
a 5(:aso w
~p~r
10 g
stuffed Egg pia nt
I G ark I1d r
jat'n, "f qq HI

Pork torta fl 109 for tuff d eggplant


Tor''Jr4I)obo~ para a relit LlnCj 'a1ar,q
Place the ground pork .
the water and cal In. a pot. Add Just when ready to serve
amansl JUice.
1 Crack th e egg and beat.
' Add salt
2 :~~e~ntil the meat is almost dry, Set
2 Spread the Pork Torta '
flattened eggplant evenly on the
3 In apreheated pan, add oi l S '
garliC onion . aute the 3 In a preheated . pan, add oil
, , potato, carrot and bell Sl"d . ' nonstick
peppe~ , I e In the stuffed eggplant F
done t .
.'
. ry until
side.' urnlng once to cook the other
4 Add ground pork, raisins and
Stir. ,peas.
4 Pour the beaten egg over the stuffed
5 Add the tomato sauce and soy sauce eggplant.
Stir well. .
5 Fry untl·1 done, turning once to cook
6 Simmer, taste, then adjust seasoning. the other side.

For h stuff d qqpl nt

The best size to long for this dish, perfect


for an individual serving, is a 100 g
eggplant, about six inches long. Gnll the
Pr p a Ion eggplants and put in a paper bag for ten
1 Crush , pee I and chop the minutes to make them sweat and thus
2 garI·IC.
easier to peel.
Peel and chop the . While pork can be purchased already
3 onion Pr par tlon
Peel the potato and . ground, the traditional Filipino way is to
small cubes. cut into 1/4-in Grill the eggplant directly on the stovetop mince the pork pieces by hand. This allows
flame until skin is charred. Allow to cool one to be more selective with the parts of
4 Peel and cut the and then peel. Place on a plate and slit the pork to be used. Hand mincing also
small cubes. carrots into '/4-in
down the center lengthwise. Flatten gives the ground pork a more interesting
5 Trim off the bell eggplant with a fork forming an oval- texture when cooked.
half and re pepper stem. Slice in The potato, carrot, and bell pepper, on
'/Hn cubesmove seeds. Cut Into
. shaped boat. Keep the stem.
small the other hand, should be cut into cubes
of equal sizes for better presentation.
6 Slice ca l
JUice. amanSI In half and extract The ground pork mIX, or torto, can
also be used to stuff whole bell peppers,
omp%yo. emponodo, and eroquetos. It IS
also used as tOPPing for halved pon de sol.
and orroz a 10 Cubono. Shelled crabeneat
can be used as a healthier subStitute for
pori<.
Bistek Tag,
Beef Stea k with On,on<.,
Thlssoundsltkr pidqm fur '.beef<; t~ak n fad It .. at ,iI (Jre t I Ihr Ip p II q)1 t ('
word "blstec' ~,mJlar to The Italian hi r Cu Whll h pie jPd It l d [It=! n fr m
Spanls h '. .
. h Bistek Taoaloq IS one of the fCiv'O rte F IqJHH We y) t) ook b, eft , bl 'lg rw( ft 101, Lh
EngI15 . ~
.1 .. as love-salty iCY sauce and sour co/amull 'Iulce
FI Ipm

Serves 4

CookinQ Tip.
500 9 beef tenderloin (lama) or si rloln
(togil iran ) Just before serving One . way to make thi s dish really
deliCIoUS is to lessen the soy sauce by one
4 cloves I 20 9 garlic Heat pan and add oil.
tablespoon and replace with a tablespoon
2 Saute onions until translucent. Set of salt.
3 I 240 9 white onions
aside. The onion slices are a key element of
1 tsp I 3 9 black peppercorns this dish. White onions are best, as they
3 Remove the steaks from the marinade
are milder. Cook the onions just until they
'/2 cup I 120 ml soy sauce and sear each steak over high heat
- -- start to turn translucent to retain their
1/4 cup juice of c%mans;, lemon or on both sides according to desired crunch and release their sweetness.
lime doneness. Set aside on a serving Marinating bistek overnight in the
platter and keep warm. refrigerator before cooking develops a
3 tbsp I 45 ml oil
4 Reduce heat and pour the marinade more intense flavor. It is best to marinate
into the same pan. Add the onion the meat in a plastic bag.
Preparation Marinated beef must be cooked in
rings and simmer until liquid is
Cut beef into 8 x 5 x 1/2 cm I3x 2 X small portions, so maintain a hot pan.
reduced by half.
'/4 in th ick stea ks. After each portion is cooked, remove it
5 Pour the cooked marinade and onions and allow the pan to heat up again before
2 Crush, peel and mince the garlic. over the beef. Serve immediately. cooking the next batch. This avoids the
3 Peel and cut the onion into l/2-cm release of too much liquid from the beef,
1/4-in thick rings. which would make it tough.
Serving suggestion
The traditional cut for bistek is the
4 Crack the black peppercorns. Serve the beef in its sauce with the onion tapa cut (SEE BEEF TAPA, PAGE 48). The tapa
5 In a bowl, mix the garlic, soy rings arranged on top. For individual cut is usually tough, non-prime meat, and

sauce, pepper, and colamans; juice. serving, place one steak on a plate, requires pounding and long simmering.
arrange onions on top, pour a bit of the Even selections like top and bottom
Marinate steaks in the mixture for at
sauce over the steak. round, though less tough, might also
least 1 hour.
be pounded with a wooden mallet with
diamond teeth, or by having a butcher
pass the meat through a meat tenderizer
machine.
The choice cut for bistek is sirloin. For
luxurious marbling, choose rib eye.

whllt onions (Slbuyas puti)


Chicken lnasa
Grilled Chicken
"lied . bar'e 'ue dint e v, y. .tt cuq~ t ( I ' •f), h. '>p"n",
Th • ,. rd ,ear._
nasal g f toe Pan y' <In. Negr ," rf]' ,lPd J fihe hc 0 teflst,c
fl S re-clpe IS rom
verb .. tul" to rL- c;.t
cOh..:ring
I . toat com"s f rem ~nn tt") Jr au,uete It... r.e it '\ie
I..J.
V'l:' ::.ourness
*

av r ane rJnye d t e Jr. of tann/ad or e~ r,r S5


f,C, t he v, nenar
'I
and .oiamunSl, ' '

~e v s4

• w~ole chlc~en, quarterea, o· cf c~('r


7 Make a marinade in a bowl by ~
Tips
part, mixing together the garlic, crushed
peppercorns, calamansi juice, lemon Soak the barbecue st'cks
6cl_ves/30gfJ~r c beforehand to prevent b . 'n Wal(,
grass, vinegar, and salt. Place the . urn'ng. Ch,,~
mosol should be grilled Over I tn
1 ts,:- j CJ blaCk r epp('rco'lls four chicken pieces in the marinade Th· ·· Ow htat
's 's ach,eved by placing th
for at least an hour or overnight and . e glill 10
10 pC'> I 150 ca/amaflsi Inches above the hot coals A
keep bowl in the refrigerator. . . mtlhod
used 'n Negros is to Spread the Coall In
L vu bs erro~ (]lass 8 Make the basting sauce by pounding, a shallow pit, skewer the piecel On Itout
peel ing, and mincing the other 6 bamboo sticks about 16 inches long,and
• cup I 60 ml cane or cocor ut vlne~~r
garlic cloves. Heat annatto oil and stick the sharpened ends in tht ground
1tbsp I 15 q Sd : fry the minced garlic until lightly diagonally, putting the chicken tht IIghl
toasted . distance from the coals, with tht thick
f C1ves / 30 1 gar c bits nearer the heat.
4 cup /60 ml ar ,tto lachueteJ ') 9 After the required marinating Chicken breasts should be cooked
E 207J t ime, remove the ch icken from the for 7 minutes, turned and cooked for 5
marinade. Skewer each chicken piece minutes more. Thighs should be cook(d
~k we" or barbecue 5t c~ for 6.5 minutes, turned and cooked for
with a bamboo barbecue stick.
6.5 minutes more. A minute or two lesl
Preparation when using a gas grill. .
Cooking The traditional preferred cuts in 110110
The first six procedures have to be done and Negros are breast (pecho) and legl
Just before serving
an hour or the night before cooking. (po-a). Chicken liver and g,zzard (otoy
Bring the excess marinade to a boil and batic%n) are also grilled.
Quarter the chicken, being careful
for basti ng.
not to tear the skin. L
2 Debone the breast leaving the wing 2 Grill the chicken, preferably over
attached. This is called a breast hot coals. Grill the presentation side
quarter. first. Baste occasionally. The inasal
can also be cooked in a broiler, about
3 CrUSh, peel, and mince 6 garlic six inches below the fire.
cloves.

4 Crush the peppercorns.


Serving suggestion
5 Extract calamansi juice to yield r
II. cup I 60 ml. Serve freshly cooked with inasai dipping
sauce (PAGE 209), papaya atchara (PAGE
6 Chop the lemon grass bulbs finely. 205J and sinangag (PAGE 44).

An alt.mall •• /nosal for th. 9nl/ IS


d.bontd and cub<d ,h,cktn on thinner,
VlOrttr barbttue sticks..
CrispY a
Frl.ed pork Kn uckles
Pit EJr pe But hp pro e
ddt ex t
FP Iv r p Q ~r ch h t t k r 01 e In hi
3k nq It e A t f
of . 'h s dls~ ru v F p nil. t ent u ~'I ,py ,'c a Whole
rel pe, nak t l,) the" fr ed t J a \.r _I-'"
pig ,S heild ' cut Ir \
ko ck e qot' f. 4 P r
I pork

'f ' lellS w 'ro;.)! 'I"e tre'tf"S 3 To a heated la rge pot or ip


2 P 9 s 6'~~ g eac" (poto !Jflo"ar/
l
wok, add the oil, then put in the leg
appro x Only the front leg of about 600 g is used
presentation side up. Cover and cook for this recipe, as this is the Ideal size.
8 cups 4 liter; water over medium heat for 5 minutes. The skin of the pota is Scored and
2 '6C 9 white 'In 01S Turn the leg over carefully, cover served whole, which keeps it hot and
again and cook the other side for most presentable. Frying three times
•50 9 carrots 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate and makes the skin very crisp and blistered.
allow to cool. Reserve the oil in the It is critical to cool and dry the pork skin
100 9 ce ery sticks
pot or wok. after each frying stage. It is the shock
1 tsp 13 9 who e t ~~~ 'leppe rCO r '1S effect of cooling and the re·exposure to
4 Cu the leg skin w ith kitchen scissors. high heat that makes the skin crisp. One
3 bay eaves Pierce he sk i n from the top then cut might debone the pata after the third fry
• 'bSD 15 q sa ' 4-cm I 11/2 - ·n squares making sure the for best presentation .
cu s on ly about '/2 cm I Ie in deep. Since crispy pata takes so much effort,
vege'-'l ~ G for deep-fr '1 restaurants cook it in batches and store
5 Second try Heat the oil In the
the legs after the second fry. The leg can
'110 again, h iS me 0 a higher
Preparation be thawed when ready for the third and
empera ure, around 200 C 1 400 ' F.
final frying, just before serving.
Peel and quarter the onions. Then pu i n he leg, s In Side down.
Fry, unco ered, for 2 to 3 minutes or
2 Peel and quarter the carrots.
un II the sk n is crisp and brown. Turn
3 Wash the celery sticks. Discard the he leg over and fr{ he opposite side
roots. for 1 mi nu e. Remove leg from the
pan and place In a strainer. Allow to
Cooking
coo l.
Pu the pork leg Into a large pot of Jus before serving,
wa er Bring to a boil and i mmediate!
Tt!lrd fry For the third and final
reduce 0 simmer. Maintain a very
frying , heat the 011 again to 200:C
gentie simmer Over the next few
1 400' F. When the oil is hot, put In
minutes a~d remove as much of he
the leg, presentation Sl·de u p. Fry for
m
scum hat rises to the surface.
1 minute on each side. Remove fro
2 Throw he onion, carrots, celery, the pan and place in a strainer.
peppercorns, bay leaves, and sal Into
he po , Cover partially and simmer
ge Iy for abou 2 hours or until he
Serving suggestion
mea IS 'ender Remove the leg and . (205) and a
Accompany With atchara PAGE • • e er
pa Je ' 0 dra; and cool. (The broth dip of inegar spiced With red chill.P PP
f'1a ( tie S'ra ned and coo ed, and he and garlic, or vinegar miX ed With soy
a r oved , a~d used as bro for sauce and chopped onions.
0" 'rec peS I
Daing na
Marinated M!Ikflsh
te fTI r hI"' pI )( ur n
o d par' Ie • t r
cut b f"er+'y
," ur-aned.

Just before serving,


r
--
The ideal size for indo .
IVldual
200 grams. A 600-700_ lervlngl '\
Preheat the pan with oil over a
shared by two Or g. mllkfilh II
medium hot fire. more and c
or ( easily be de-boned be an mOI~
cause the b
2 Fry the butterflied fish skin side up more visible. The belly f on~lal~
. at at thi I
It!>sp I" sat for 2 mi nutes or until golden brown, weight also has the ideal thO k I arg~r
turn over and fry the skin side for consistency. IC nell and

another 2 minutes. Include the Deboned milkfish are readil .


€ ... Yavallabl~
Other cuts and fish select·
crushed garlic. .
Ions are
boneless bangus belly tilapla a d
' n round
r scad (galunggang).
Serving suggestion The best variety of garlic comes from
The day before
Each dOing no Isdo is served i nd ividually 1I0cos, which is small in size and tedIOus
Clean and wash the fish. Trim the ta il and can be accompanied by otchora (PAGE to peel, but far more flavorful.
and fins. 205). sinongog [PAGE 44). and fried eggs for
2 Crush the garlic cloves. breakfast. It can also be the main course.

3 Crush the black peppercorns.

4 Sprinkle crushed garlic and pepper


over the fish. Season with salt. Drizzle
with the vinegar. Marinate fish for at
least 4 to 6 hours or overnigh . Store
covered in the refrigerator.
L chon awal
Deep-fned Por~ Be Iy
I 1)1

r
5c es gar c r
The pork belly slab should have an even
K k e a 0 t
Heat the cooking oil and deep-fry distribution of meat and fat and shou ld
4x
pork slab with skin down (Make sure not be thicker than 3.5 cm I 1.5 in. The
ay eat the pork is completely submerged in pork belly can be cooked in a convection
oil). Adjust heat to low and fry slowly oven, slowly, in very low heat 130' C I
tbsp 15 qs 250· F.
for 20-30 minutes on each side.
e ougr wate '0 co er a k
2 Drain in a strainer and allow to cool
8 ups 2 ters c ~g or oee to room temperature. (At this stage,
!lg the fried pork is ready to be refried or
kept In the freezer for future use.)
Prepa on
Just before serving,
Crush the garlic cloves.
Fry the pork again in the same oil.
2 Place the pork belly, garlic, bay leaf,
and salt in a stock pot and fill with
Option one for a crunchier re
the water.
Cut into 2.5-cm I l-in cubes and deep-
3 Bring to a boil and reduce to simmer.
fry over high heat for about 5-10 minutes
Continue to cook for about 1 hour or
or until golden brown. Fish out with a
until fork-tender. Remove the scum
as it surfaces. strainer and place on a platter lined with
paper towels.
4 Remove pork from liquid (save the
stock for future use) and allow to
Option two for a moist inner meat
dry out inside the oven set at warm
temperature, 93 ' C I 200'F, for one Fry the whole slab for the second time over
hour. high heat, skin side down, 5-10 minutes
5 Cool. or until golden brown. When done, cut
into 2.5-cm 11 - in cubes.

Serving suggestion
Serve with grilled eggplant salad or
ens%dong t%ng (PAGE 83), or with a
tomato / green mango / shrimp paste
salsa (PAGE 211). Dipping sauces can be
a mixture of vinegar. soy sauce, crushed
garlic, and siling /obuyo. Some prefer
/echon sauce (PAGE 210).
Pork Bin . .
. Por k Sauteed
CriSP In Shr imp f

~erv s6

Sauteed Shrimp Paste Tips


The quality of the pork should bt .
3 clove, 5 9 Q r' for /echon kawa/i-the pork b II Ideal
. e Yshould
not be thicker than 3 5 em I 15 .
1 180 gonion n q rr d Jr>l- l rj or 'j' . . In. and
the fat and lean meat layers should be
6 500 q medlum-s zed tomatoe ( r, 0 • rn ·oe distributed equally.

1 tbsp 115 ml all The best quality shrimp paste


2 tb pi! 'T'
(bagoong a/among) is fresh, without
·4 cup sauteed (hpmp paste artificial coloring. If the shrimp paste is
te ( gong
I' ) too salty, pour it into a bowl of water
and strain. Bottled bagoong is Usually
2 to 4 green f nger c res
sweetened, and not ideal for this dish.
If fresh bagaong is not available, sault
Preparation Preparation the bottled version with onion~ garii~
Cut the lechan kawali into 2.5-cm I and tomatoes. There are many variants
Crush, peel and mince the garlic.
I-in cubes. of bottled cooked bagoong available in
2 Peel and dice the onion. groceries: salty, sweet, or spicy.
2 Crush, peel, and mince the garlic To maintain the crispnessofthe Iedron
cloves. 3 Chop the tomatoes. kawali, prepare the sauce separately and
mix it with the pork just before serVing.
3 Peel and dice onion.
Cooking
4 Chop the tomatoes.
In a preheated pan, sautt garlic,
Cooking onion, and tomatoes in oil. Cook
until the oil starts to separate.
Just before serving 2
Add the shrimp paste and water.
In a preheated pan, sautt garlic, Simmer for 30 minutes.
onion, and tomatoes in oil. Cook for
about 10 minutes until tomatoes are
soft.
2 Add the saut«d shrimp paste and
cook for another 5 minutes.
3 Add the I~on kowoli and green
dillies. Toss well.

lei .......... IItIcc.


Saw this dish hot With a siding of
chopped grun IIIIngoes.
Guinataang Sugpo
Prawns in Coconut Mil k
oto or coconut milk, and finishmg with coconut cream , suggests a rich dish Th f
"ng .... ,t h 9 , . e at
C00 f the prawns, or 5ugpO flavo rs the creamy sauce and adds a slight red-ora nge t
in the heads a lOge.

Se'ves 6

Cooking Tips
600 g praw~s of about 50 g each The secret to this dish is the last-minute
In a pot. combine garlic, ginger,
[20 to a k 10) coconut milk, peppercorns, and addition of the coconut cream.
Prawns lose their firmness when
4-6 cloves I 20 g garlic vinegar. Simmer for about 2 minutes
overcooked, so it is important to cook
over medium heat. Remove from
1 thumb-sized pc 20 g ginger prawns just before serving.
heat.
Peeling the shell off makes the prawns
1 cup I 240 ml cocorut crearT' (kakang
Just before serving, easier to eat, but leave the head on to
gata) (lEE PAGE 206) add flavor to the coconut sauce.
Reheat the sauce. Add the prawns
2 cups 1480 rr.: coconut milk (gata)
and season with salt.
I'J: PAcE 206)
1 ) ts~ 11 g black peppercorns When the prawns turn red, add
2
~4 cup 1180 ml v 1ega (cane pal"" or
r the finger chili and coconut cream.
white! Simmer for 1 minute more or until
the sauce has thickened slightly. Add
, green fonger chili (siIIr'g pangslgang) the chili leaves and remove from
1 tsp I 5 9 salt heat immediately.

chll leaves fdahon Tlg 5111)


Serving suggestion

Preparation Arrange prawns in a bowl. pour in the


sauce. Garnish with chili leaves. Serve
Wash prawns, peel shell off but keep
hot.
heads and tails intact. Trim whiskers.
2 Crush, peel, and mince the garlic.
3 Peel and slice the ginger into thin 112
eM rounds.
4 If using mature coconuts, extract
cream and milk.
5 Crack the black peppercorns.

/
cocon ut I", yogi
Humba
Braised Pork Belly
T r' s~a cr e y rec e ,fn, .~ E +, n " t ) ~r nu: ) IT r dn'J I yte In r her
e J .f t e ,-OL "try hurn/)o u~e- c rK trc fotrr te , be { The ~ hlne,~ r' ~e, r eVlde t In

t e ,-e r+ Jlted ~ JCk h~"" 3r d sovbe ' ,Jste

Serves b

5 Crush, peel and mince garlic.


r
Tips
----- ...
4 cups I 1 liter water, enougr to cover
pork 6 In a big bowl, combine the garlic, Choose pork belly with
ground black pepper, soy sauce, fat and meat, with th:v~::y distributed
2 kg who e pork bel 'f (ltempo) than 1.5 in. not thicker
vinegar, salted black beans, soybean
8 cloves I 40 9 garlic paste, brown sugar, bay leaves, star Adjust the taste of the marinade b f
anise, and peanuts. Mix well until adding the meat. Marinating overnig:~::
3. tsp I . 9 grourd bacK pepper the sugar has dissolved. Place the a plastiC bag In the refrigerator allows a
more Intense flavor to develop.
'. cup 60 I"" soy sauce pork into the mixture and marinate
Humba requires long preparation
overnight in the chiller.
cup '80",1 v"egar (white, sugar
4 the recipe is designed for large quantl;I;~
or ca1e coconut) 7 An hour before cooking, remove the Leftovers may be frozen for later use.
bowl with the marinated pork and Store each piece with some sauce In
2 tbsD I 40 9 sa ted biacK bears (tausl)
the reserved broth from the chiller. airtight containers and freeze. Reheat
2 tsp 1 • 0 g soybear paste (taJlJre) by placing the pork, whole or sliced, With
8 Remove the layer of fat that has sauce, in a bowl, and steam.
4 cup I 120 9 tlrowr suqar formed on top of the reserved broth.

2 bay leaves
Cooking
:1 star anise
Place pork with the marinade in
•• cup 1100 9 pea'luts, S~I'l on a pot. Add the reserved broth and
bring to a boil.
Preparation
2 Reduce heat to a bare simmer and
This involves overnight marination. cook for 2-3 hours or until fork-
In a pot, bring water to boil. Add pork tender. The pork should be very
and par-boil for 10 minutes. Reserve ender after cooking so that the fat
the broth and cool before placing in on top jiggles.
the chiller.
2 Trim the sides of the pork and remove Serving suggestion
the portions with thick layers of fat. When ready to serve, remove pork from
3 Cut the pork into 7.5 x 7.5-cm I3x the pot. Slice pork Into l-cm I 1/4-in thick
3-in squares. pieces across the grain. Place these on a
4 platter and pour sauce over. Serve very
With a sharp knife, carefully score
hot with steamed greens.
he sk.in side of each portIon
making CrISSCross slits measuring
apprO~lmately 1 cm 111. in apart and
i2 em I 18 in deep.

sur ,nlSt
Kald r ta
Beef Stew in Tomato Sauce
UP the go like , riO VPr brae i:mr
t
gh t ~ 110< "ro's frur)al pock~t
[r]l do (ordero Fern ndo , "II I)C05 Norte,0

s~ e

5 Clean and wash the potatoes wi th a 5


kg ee br ket or srortnt s
brush, leave unpeeled,
In many parts of the country. festive
6 0 ~ 0 q garl c koldereto. tomato sauce-flavored stew
6 Peel t he ca rrots, Cut and shape into
2 60 9 wI] te 0:1 ors 1.5 x 1.5 cm I '/2 in mini ca rrots. IS always made with mutton, It IS mor~
ex pensive but a healthy alternative
4 350'1 t :'1"toes 7 Slice t he sa usage crosswise into Most wet markets sell goat meat alread '
l - cm I 1/4- in rings, dressed, The recipe works just the sam:
400 9 baby potatoes for beef.
8 Seed and slice t he red and green be ll
2(lC q ca rots There are many methods to cooking
peppers into 2- cm I 3/4- in st rips,
kolder~to. Some brown the meat before
S < ~ stewing or braising , This recipe uses a
Cooking long tenderizing period of Simmering.
pepper
Place beef pieces in a pot Add the giving the cook the opportunity to adjust
water. Cover pot. Just when the depending on the tenderness of the meat
Simmering also minimizes shrinkage and
e water beg ins to boi l. immediately
keeps the meat mOist The meat and
reduce to simmer 82 °C I 180°F and
2 vegetable ingredients should be cut
cook for 3 hours or until beef is
evenly to ensure equal cooking time,
e tende r. Remove beef from stock and
This dish can be stored In the freezer for
set aside. Reserve beef stock for future use, When ready to serve. thaw
making sauce. and heat over very low flame,
2 Just before serving. preheat another
pot Pour in oiL Saute garl ic. onion.
and tomatoes. Add beef. tomato
sauce. liver spread. soy sauce.
reserved stock. potatoes. carrots and
sausage, Simmer for 5 minutes. then
add be ll peppers and ol ives. Continue
PreparatIon
cooking unti l potatoes are done.
Trim the beef. Cut i nto 5-cm I 2-1n
3 Season w ith salt and pepper.
cubes or. If using spare ribs. cu Into
5 em pieces.
2 Serving suggestions
Crush. pee l, and mince the garlic,
3 Ma e sure to serve hot. Add the green
Peel and chop he on ions.
01, es Just before serving. If desired. add
4
Pee l a d chop he tomatoes. one or two pieces of fine ly chopped bird's
e ie ch I (s lfmg /abuyo).
Kare-kare
Ox Ta;1 Stewed 'n Peanut Sauce
Kare Aore!s o,'e of thj.~e di_he thltit Fil: In. wll' C i!Pl1 ,., W H~: ).!IP to The FII
""lay II ve rei eJt .vord,) f ( er te 're M. dY soul'Y <t ew. Th e ';,duce IS d Ipmo kore-kore Ith e
ices or Chl'ifS. a"d S thlckered WitI' p,~nded oastery ne e In d peanut'" evold [B of seasonings .
sp
Memo '" of phlllppme K,rchens.j ",a and Doratan.
f
This stew of oxtal In thick
. peanut sauce with vegetables". qUite . exhausting t
c.",,,,erCl.' <hor'cut uses Filipino- style peanut butter a< the base f h a prepare The
to pur sts. or t e sauce. but this is hOrrlfymg

On the day,
•• kg oxtail, cut nto 5 em 2 if' thick 5 Add the peanut past
4 Bring out the oxtail in the cooking Turn off heat and k e. Keep stirring.
p'eces eep covered.
liqUid from the refrigerator. 6
enouqh water to cover rreat In a separate pot, boil th e remaining
. .
5 Skim the fat and discard. Remove the water and add salt Add
21160 9 omans Ion b .' the yard-
oxtail and reserve the broth. g eans until cooked but sfll f·
and g R I Irm
1 tlJsp 115 9 salt 6 reen. emove from water. Add
Toast the glutinous rice in a skillet
the banana heart and eggplants and
1 tsp I 3 9 w'10le black peppercorns until golden brown . Allow to cool
ball until cooked. Remove and cool
Pulse into a fine powder using a food Immediately.
'. cup I 60 9 glutirous flce (fTlaJagkit) processor.
When ready to serve,
• C JP 1200 g r!'Y roasted peanuts 7 Pulse the peanuts in a food processor
until creamy. Reheat the broth and meat. When
3 ~mall eg9plarts very hot, return the vegetables. Add
a Slice the eggplants lengthwise the blanched vegetables to heat.
1 t~ ~dle yard-long beans (SltON)
leaving the stem intact.
1 ~~all b~1z'la i1eaft Serving suggestion
9 Cut the yard-long beans into 5-cm
4 cloves 20 9 garlic I 2-in pieces. Bundle about a pieces Immediately transfer the ox tail with the
together with the spine of a leaf or sauce into a deep serving platter with the
'. e , j 60 rnl anratto fachuete) ;:)11 meat in the center and the vegetables on
sprig of chive or spring onion.
( iN'. 207)
the sides. Serve with a siding of sauteed
10 Prepare a bowl of water with about
• cup 100 9 shrrp paste (bog'long shrimp paste, page 208.
a tablespoon of salt. Peel the outer
a '~a,.g)
layers of the banana heart until
4 cups I 960 rnl wate' you find its tender inner part. Cut TIps
the banana heart lengthwise into 4 The first boiling ensures that the oxtail is very
• ',p 5';l <;alt
pieces. Immediately soak the pieces dean. No salt is added because it can delay the
in water to prevent discoloration. tenderizlOg process.
Preparation The banana heart used here IS the thin
11 Crush, peel and finely chop the
The day before: white variety. not the red one.
garlic. The yard-long beans can also be left uncut
1 Wash oxtail very well. Place in a pot and tied IOtO a wreath.
With enough water to cover. Boil for Cooking Peanut butter can be used as a substitute
10 minutes and discard the water instead of the ground peanuts.
Heat the annatto oil in another pot
Pour in enough water to cover. . The traditional kore-kore uses oxtail, which
over medium heat. can be substituted with other cuts of beef such
2 Peel and quarter the onions. Add to
2 Saute the garlic and shrimp paste. as short ribs or brisket cut into 4 cm 11 ~4 in
the pot with the salt and whole black
cubes. and tflpe cut into 2.5 x 5 cm 11 x 2 In
peppercorns. 3 Add the meat. Saute for a few
minutes then add 4 cups of the pieces. 1-
3 Bring to a b'l 01 . .
and Immediately Another option IS an all-seafood or a I
broth. Lower flame and simmer until
reduce to a simmer a2'C I 1aO"F. vegetable version. An attractive option IS to
the broth has been reduced by half. use the very small long or round eggplant With
Cover and cook for 90 minutes or
4 Add the toasted ground rice, stirring the stem intact. The round eggplant can ~ cut
Iuntil. fork tend er. C001 In the cookJOg
Iquld, cover, and refrigerate to bring continuously until thick and creamy. Into four from the base to the stem
the fa to the surface.
Paksiw na Bangus
Milkfish Stewed in Vinegar
Cook nG .... Ith vinegar makes FlilplN CUl~lne distinct Althouqh po",..., ;, c "led by ,arrou, names
all over the COl'toy, 'he proces, IS the >.me It IS similar to adoho bu pakslw appile< mainly to
<eafood, especially fish Fres~ness IS a wereqUisite becau<e the vinegar hides nothing and enhances
I.e favor of the ftsh.

Serves I

5 Slice bitter gourd into thin rings. Tips


2 bonelec'i ba"qus f('1ilkfish) bel e;
Scrape off the white membrane and Blanch the vegetableS .
f'or' a 600-700 q bangus
discard seeds if any. then refresh imm d In unsalted Water
. e lately i .
8 c (lve~ I 40 g gZf C Instead of boiling th . n ice watel,
em With tn d
they stay green and' e Ish, so
• thumb-Sized pc. 10 9 g 'lger Cooking CIiSp.
The addition of oil add "
4 60C 9 eggplants In a non-reactive cookware (stainless I·
sightly Sour poksiw and .
s "avor to th
e
. Improves the
pan, glazed clay pot) place the consistency of the sauce 01' .
2 1300 g small bitte' gourds (1mpalaya) I . . Ive 011 Or porI
vinegar, garlic, ginger, finger chilies, ard IS suggested. You may garnish with
'< cup 1'20 rr v'legar and water. pork cracklings (chichoron).
Some cooks boil the Vinegar on its
4 greer f,nge' cr es (sill"1 pa"slqang/ 2 Add the milkfish, bring to a boil then
own before adding the fish and other
lower immediately to simmer while
l' 2 C JPS I 16C..,1 water Ingredients. This tempers the aCidity of
scooping the sauce over the bangus the vinegar.
2 tsp 110 q sa t be lly repeatedly. After 10 minutes, The meat of the milkfish can be used
add the vegetables. Season with to make bong us lumpia and filling for
2 tbsp I 30 rr oil sa lt eggplant and stuffed bell peppers.

Preparation 3 Add oil.

Cut the belly just below the head of 4 Simmer for another 10 minutes.
the fish to where the belly fat ends. Remove from heat and plate.
Cut crosswise into two and lengthwise
in half. Wash and pat dry. Serving suggestion
2 Peel and slice the garlic thinly. Arrange the milkfish pieces belly side up
3 and vegetable pieces on a shallow dish
Peel and slice the ginger thinly into
rounds. with the sauce. Serve at room temperature
with hot rice.
4 Remove stem of eggplant, slice
diagonally into I-in pieces.
Pin ais na Alim asag
Stuf~ed Crab Stearred 'n Bana na Leaves
• m n ow ( ( , e ,.lf1ulS "0 Kahil!''' l n pagp I) J.) Blue :lalt t
5 n 3" ... "''' • wa er u'lbs
J el'P )e~t f'll '!( p.. bPC H.; ' h. to:.. e c e mpr than the freshwater variety. live
prefe red, In ' • OJ c te q" throL h t e rmprex proc':~ of identrf'ling What the
III 011-" a.' n~ < "e
Irte o· y go{ (h moceXl 11) crabs" These are bigger male
e f m nrne -harac er ct c th!l.k fat ~uildup, and are more flavOrfu l.

ye d 6 Ptees

7 Clean the banana leaves. Pass Tips


J kq 0 Je c'abs (~/'mosoq)
, 200-23C c, eact' I leaves briefly over a hot flame to
Steamed crabs are good as is, but
make them pliant and suitable for steaming them in banana leaves
1 C ove~ 15J!i"If(~ wrapping. Cut 6 pieces in 21 x 28 cm concentrates flavor in the crabmeat and
1 hu'11b-slze piece I 2'i 9 qlr Ie'
I 8 x 11 in sizes. Tear out strips from adds the aromas of garlic, ginger, and
the remaining leaves to be used for young coconut meat strips. Crabmeat
1 ,80 goniOn tying the packets. can also be cooked outside the shell as
relleno, a sweetish, savory mix, which is
11 15 9 gree~ f ~ger c'Ji)i (silmg stuffed back into the crab's carapace and
pang iq(!"g) Cooking fried.
1 : <; g sm Sized red be peprt'r In a heated pan, add the oil. Crab flakes can be kept in the freezer
for future use.
)un roconut (I) IkO} to ~a p 2 Saute the garlic, ginger, and onion
for 1 minute. Add the finger chili,
cup 120 I] COCC ",t meat s'r p' bell pepper, and young coconut
cup 121') ~ coconu' c re<:""1 strips. Cook for another minute.
E 2061 3 Pour in the coconut cream and
simmer until sauce thickens.

4 Add the crabmeat.


L ,p130m a 5 Season to taste with fish sauce and
r h sauce (pO" SI to taste pepper.

6 Remove the crabmeat mixture from


'~h ground b a~k peppe'
pan and stuff Into the cleaned crab
shell cover.
Preparation
7 Place one stuffed crab shell in the
Wash and clean crabs. Steam. Allow middle of banana leaf. Wrap by
to cool. Remove crab shell cover foldlng the two sides in. Tie the two
Clean thoroughly, dry, and set aside.
ends securely with the banana leaf
Flake crabmeat and set aside.
strips.
2 Crush, peel, and mince the garlic,
8 Just when ready to serve, broil in the
3 Peel and finely chop the ginger. oven or grill for about 2 minutes or
4 Peel and Chop the onion, until the leaves are seared.

S Wash green foger chi' and red


bell pepper. Cu In half lengthwise. Serving suggestion
ange stuffed
O'scard "e membranes and the Cut open the packets an d arr
Steds Chop f nel . crabs on a platter
6

bluc crab la masog)

1123
poch ra
Boiled Meat ard Veqetable~
"The cut "sed for p )chero' ee ke Chi, ,nn could b prepa rc j Taq.log I
~
ith squash. sa/JO banana. [P dotal 1. KOJrote 'ept Jol ,I 9 feen bean poe
dr'rJ Jf'rr) q'/Ie, bt>lled
cabbag e] leave' WI h ar al,um~ nVlnq uce f ma'hed boll j egyp I ani Or It could
I
l
reo hoy [Chine e
Pl-.chero gal/eqo style, vVhu.:h was, of ('c UI • ~panl':>h (~UPIl( ,. . )fdl Y f rom GaliCia) dbe prepared
anish chOriZO. potcttoe C , C3btagec;, "dl d :/ofbonzo c /ch ick peas) wltllJ(lppmg(.a
I :tn contilmed
Sp
tOO1ato ." [Gilda Cordero Fernando, Good Housekeerll1g In P'9;dl1 an La " ure of Sauteed
and Ufe]es . J , guna, In Philippine Food

Serves 6 to 8

5 Quarter the whole cabbage. Wash.


3 r>1edlum - slzed 1 k~ beef shJnk S 'In9 S 19' os tln
6 Wash and trim the green beans.
(Aeqchl/ Neatly arrange the meats and
7 Wash the bok choy but leave wh oIe. Accompany with tom t the vegetables.
kg bnsket (punta y per"aJ (b ' a 0 sauce and I
1
8 erenJena) sauce (pi d. eggp ant
Peel the bananas. SEE PAGE 211J S ace 111 separate bowls,
I whole c~lcken, prefera~ y • kg . . erve the broth p" h
9 Peel the potatoes and wash. IS or with vermicelli fideo IPklng . at as
20G 9 slab bacon or pancetta broth. s coo ed 111 the
10 Crush, peel, and mince the I'
cloves. gar IC
200 g salted pork or ham hock
11 Crush the peppercorns. Tips
2 100 g Spanish sausage (chanza)
All the meats are cooked together
2 stalks I 80 9 leeks Cooking so make sure that the chicken is no;
overcooked. Use a gentle simmer never
3 1120 9 celery ribs 1 Put all the meats and chicken in a a boil.
large casserole with the quartered
To preserve the meat flavors, bring water
3 I 240 g oniors onion, leeks, celery stalks, and crushed
peppercorns. to a boil and add a small portion of meat at
4 1280 9 carrots a time. Remove. Bring the water to a boil
2 Cover with enough water and bring to
again before adding the next portion. The
• tsp 0 g ~,ack peppercor'ls a bal l. Remove the scum as it surfaces.
high temperature is critical to sear the O1eat
Immediately lower heat to a bare
• 1500 9 w~ole cabbage simmer. and seal in the flavor. This is a different
technique from cooking meat starting in
-.350 g green beans 3 After about 20 minutes, take out
cold water, which transfers the fiavor of the
chicken, sausage and bacon slab first as
meat to the broth.
5 stalks 80 g pechay (bak chay) these will cook ahead. Set aside.
Sausage, bacon slab, ham hock, or
4 Continue to simmer gently the salted pork are the flavor enhancers.
250 g cooked chickpeas (garbanzas)
rema ining meats until fork tender. Turn Make sure these are of top quality. Once
6 COOKI"g bananas (saba) off the heat.
the meal is fork tender, cut the brisket,
5 In another pot, take 3 cups I 720 ml salted pork, and bacon slab into equal
2 • 20 9 potatoes
of the broth and bring to a boil. Put in pieces. The sausage is cut crosswise.
3 cloves 15 9 garlic the quartered cabbage, sliced carrots,
Carefully debone the chicken (SEE PAGE
green beans, pechay, bananas, and
227). Cut against the grain into equal
enoug~ water to cover meat the ch ickpeas. Ensure there is enough
broth to cover the vegetables. Season slices. Cooking the vegetables in the beef
3 tbsp I 40 ml a ve 01 broth with salt and pepper. When the broth adds flavor.
vegetables are tender but still green, Keeping the meat warm in the broth
2 t,p '0 9 salt remove from the pot and set aside. will prevent it from drying out. If the
Return the broth to the meat pot. Return dish is to be served O1uch later, re010ve
1t p I 3 9 ground pepper
the chicken. sausage, and bacon slab. the meat from the broth, heat the broth,
Just when ready to serve: then remove from the fire. Put the meat
Preparation
back in. Vegetables can kept war01 In the
1 6 Bring broth to a boil to heat the chicken
Clean the I k .
5-cm 12 . ee s and cut diagonally into meats. same way.
-In pieces. The tomato and eggplant sauces
2 7 Remove the chicken and the meats.
Cut the cele ry"·b' served on the side add a flavorful.edge
s Into 2-in pieces. Debone the chicken and the other
3 to the essentially boiled ingredients.
Peel and quart 1 meats. Arrange on the serving platter.
the oth er onion. Pee l and chop Pachero broth can be used as a base for
er 2 Onions.
8 In a preheated pan, add olive oil, saute other soups or as broth for Span4Sh d4Shes
4
Peel he ca L
Slice the ot~ots. eave 1 piece whole. the chopped onion and garliC. Add the
like co/l05.
2.5-cm [1 er 3 carrots crosswise i nto drained vegetables. Saute, then arrange
-In pieces.
on the platter.

LlAM [ Main Dishes 1 .25


Relleno ng Manak
Stuffed (h icker
(l wl..rk bl. n BUl3l1n. f e til ~bk ha t.o have many hnds of relleno for'
hl<.:ken s "ar " ' ..
Stuffing C -dered qraclouS. The t 1fr nj I' wh elf''' lte' orrhnary chicken to a special dl~h
hl,..t to be cC"1St

4 Chop the Spanish sausage. COoking


1.2 Kg .... hole ci'leken
5 Peel and chop the onions.
Bake the chicken for at least 1 h
1 tsp I <; g So: ·1 . oor,or
6 Finely chop the pimiento pieces. untl . chicken is cooked through and the
\ _tsp 11 9 ground black pepper skin IS golden brown.
7 Slice the stuffed olives in half.
1can 1125 9 Vienna sausa~e
8 Grate the Edam or Parmesan cheese. Serving suggestion
.1100 g Spanl,h sausage (chorizo)
9 lightly beat 1 egg. Hard boil the After the chicken has cooled down, slice
160 9 onions other 3 eggs. Peel and set aside. crosswise to reveal the stuffing. Arrange
on a platter.
1 CUD 1100 g canned pill' ento 10 Preheat oven to 180' C I 350' F.

" cup 150 9 stuffed olives 11 In a mixing bowl, combine the


ground pork, Vienna sausage, Tips
J tbsp I 50 9 ralsms Spanish sausage , onions, pimiento, Debone the chicken carefully. Make sure
olives, raisins, grated cheese, and the the skin is intact. Follow the stuffing
1 wedge 20 9 Edam or Parr'esan
cheese beaten egg. Mix until well combined. quantities strictly so that the stuffing
Pan-fry 1 tbsp of the mixture to remains intact when the relleno is cut.
4 eggs check seasoning. Correct seasoning The crosswise cut of the rellenD should
SOC g grou~d por~ if needed. be about 1.5 em I '/. in.
Pan-fry a tablespoon of the stuffing to
2 tbsp 13C 9 Dutter 12 Stuff the mixture inside the chicken test whether the seasoning is correct and
and arrange the hardboiled eggs in mixed properly.
the center by pushing the mixtu re
Preparation
along the sides of the cavity.
Debone chicken. (SEE PAGE 219)
13 Do not stuff too tightly or the
2 Wash then season the chicken with chicken will burst during cooking.
salt and pepper inside the cavity and Place chicken on a baking dish or
out. Set aside. pan.
3 Chop the Vienna sausage. Brush the butter over the chicken.
14

l,AM I Main Dis hcS


i /17
p Lech
Roasted Suckl ing Pig
ecnv n, Slurn;;... •• h tn~riH' t,mClnn
r .. Dr
"",, o.
reen u.
'"~""
rrrn.;'1 d rz.
• _0 , " ' . , " , ."
The Fe Ive TLlhlf. I f( ml
.ow ." ,,, 'w, '.
r~H ~ 9 t
I e r 11 nOr IS tnt: de' to spel.31 Que ...
'n p a bl rras (.r dellg~" w.:.r
fill )r1 t~11 11 e B I~y n SJ :lnqac: c;.Up'Jt)~ eol "'J nake the bee t5"n . ilnd.h fl'
e s: "lair mvst exper"'Ive Ite.
' •
S• " ~e st3r, 11
the pin A, t e urnl,.led lit<on ~'hat He to 10~' I e abIes of the Ji'feren hQu f'( 1. ofr:
:
"'n r3 re~t' "0,.11 tre Baptist. s alSft the daV the saint Bearer' al d jJlf'i re ret ;par d b,-~ )m hy wattr on t 1(' c:tree t "lGi da Corde F . rp 'fl
the [son IS f hl.maQe • "j .

p'1t "In - II v"r the toW" "'" th rn


f"rnd!10o, ~ lS,.
para~e j on ,ono POles: n Ph,'IN ..1t F, Jd and vfe]
Bac_varCS 01 Batanoas ,

~
e -

sed whole ck qJ:'IQ


P ..
Wash the suckling pig inside and out.
r------
T'ps
The making of a good roast suck!"
--
g
(Iechon and litson are both co t,)n Pig
20 b ac pe pe or Wipe dry with paper towels. . rrec starts
L tbs
With the selection of the piglet. The best
2 Grind half of the black peppercorns.
1 ead I r g, c pIgs for lechon are made from
a natllft
The remaining peppercorns should
2 tbsp JC ... stay whole.
breed that have an evenly Spread fat
content. This makes the meat more tender
sp 1S r b il
3 Crush, peel, and mince the garlic. than commercially-bred hYbrid pigs, that
Divide into 2 portions. are appreciated for their lean meat.
~ ';: g '1 q rosemary
Lechon de Leche means that the piglet
L k. emon rass or eo lugh t s:ut+ 4 Rub the entire cavity of the pig with between the ages of 21-30 days is still
-9 l v salt, crushed peppercorns, and half suckling. These piglets are often made Into
the garlic. Let it stand for about 30 Cochiniffo, a Spanish-inftuenced dish.
K t· e threa
minutes. Larger pigs are not as good for lechon as
fO oa: q 5 Preheat oven to 180' C I 350'F. young ones. Their fiesh is often tough, and
their fat solidifies too quickly when served.
6 Chop the basil leaves. It would therefore be better to have two
7 Chop the rosemary. ideally sized lechons rather than increasing
the size of the pig for a larger group.
8 Tie the lemon grass in a bundle. The ideal sizes for lechon de leche are:
9 Stuff the pig's cavity with the • Age 30 days; Live Weight: approx.
remaining garlic, whole black 7-7.5 k, Dressed weight: 4.5-5 kg;
peppercorns, basil leaves, rosemary, Serves 8-10
and lemon grass.
• Age 45 days; Live Weight: approx.
10 Sew cavity opening with kitchen 8-8.5 k, Dressed weight: 5-5.5 kg;
thread using overlapping stitches. Serves 12-15
11 Brush the skin with oil.
• Age 60 days; Live Weight: approx.
10.5- I I k, Dressed weight: 7·8 kg:
Cooking Serves 18-20
1 Roast in the preheated oven for 45
minutes, brushing with oil every 15 The traditional stu ffiIng nor lechon are
tanglad or lemon grass, tamannd lea'es.
minutes for a crisp result. If any part , per Vinegar
of the pig starts to burn (feet, ears, shallots garlic, leeks. and pep .
, lamanSI JUice
with cut shallots and salt, or ca ood
etc.) COver that part with foil.
th sour-based, are 9
2 and coarse sa It, bo . I sauce
Increase heat to 200'C I 400'F and substitutes for the traditIOnal Iver an
continue to roast for a further 30 .. na Ily cooked ,n
Lechan IS tradltlO . ver is
minutes or until the skin is golden d etlan howe
open pit. The mOisture re u . oven
and crisp. . cooked ,n an
greater than when II IS . for good
The best way [0 cut [ ~e iecnon Sta~
Serving suggestion 'h kltcren SCISSOrs.
presentatIon IS WI., 'OP of the
II hole at the.
by punchlrg a SI'la . 1 _ the sp ne
Serve whole or Individually with ilver a'ght I nea.. ,.
sauce on the side. (SeE PAGE 210) spine then C"ut a str • crOSSW'lt
tWO InchO
to the ta.,. Cut every bO'" ~deS
('om the spine to the be'Y on ., "
Vl'l" tI1(,.
carefully t.ft.ng the meat
1281 I<UllNARYA I AG .
uldebook to P.hil'
Pina put I da
Fried Fish Packets
T e tOry es' hi' pd. bl 'h )Ok " 'mi' dl
·0 h e r•• d
ew 'l'w'ute • dee In h lJanan ['kf"t ntJI mq tt e
fish

7 Slice the large tomato crosswise into


'/2- cm I '/s-in pieces.
Bring the oil to 190'C I 37S' F to prevent
8 Peel and slice the white onions the fish from absorbing too much grease.
crosswise into .5- cm I'/s-in pieces. The banana leaf adds aroma and flavor
to the fish. It also protects the fish from
9 Cut the banana leaf into a 26 x 31 burning in the oil. Aluminum foil or
q n cm 110 x 12 in piece. parchment paper may be substituted for
c 10 banana leaves.
ed nqer Score both sides of the fish with a
sharp knife. For a healthier option. charcoal-broil
or steam the fish instead of frying.
11 Rub both sides of the fish with salt This recipe can use bongus (milkfish).
and oil. opohop (seabassl or kitong (spadefish).
12 Insert the stuffing mixture into the
belly port ion of the fish .

L
13 Lay the fish on the banana leaf. Top
With the sl ices of tomato and onion.
Fold the sides of the leaf and secure
wi th string.

14 Repeat w ith the remain ing fish.

Cooking
2
Just when ready to serve

Pour the oil into a wok (kawalij.


When hot, slide fish packet gently
into the oil and fry for about 3
minutes.
Preparation 2 Turn the wrapped fish carefully
Clean the fish. and cook on the other side for 2
minutes.
2 Chop the tomato.
3 Repeat with the remaining packets.
Chop the celery stalk finely.
Peel and chop the onion finely. Serving suggestion
Peel and cut the ginger into thin Place fish packet on a platter. Cut the
strips. strings and open the banana leaf Garnish
with cilantro leaves. Best taken With
In a bowl, mix together chopped
pinakbet (PAGE 92) or ensaladang talang
tomato, celery, onion, ginger strips,
(PAGE 83) Serve with sliced salted egg.
salt. ground blac pepper, and oil.
ThiS m x Will be used as stuffing for
the fish. 0 Vide mto 4 portions.
Relleno
Stuffed Milkfisr
m rrOI P daur I q t Jr the p h h cf h
"lol ee
111g n(JIl ncltl :lm:J tL. e
n 11'10 ed r ryr the, d
ntll keIeto . pI flC <;:'}J I 1~
dpbl npd, flaked,
e
rookee . ar 10'"
,ep , oth r ,vcr nG eGle cilreful yen till el In thp 0 '11 J'i
k
'le flS, look whole q. n.Nhl e t I r m r >/\ r, t .l" c;:tdl t:-~ r Jun( In
skiP rT'3 "
e'liefYOdY r."enuS.

~e l

4 whole r kf,sr I bonolJ I 2 kg. the other 2 in case the skin being
used tears. and pepper. Allow to cool.
app'oxir>1a t ely ';OG 9 eacl]
4
4 Remove celery leaves. wash and set Stir eggs and cheese into the
Ij (J/OfT'ansl or 2 tbsp 30 leme 1 mllkflsh
aside. Clean celery stalks and chop. . mixture . Divide m',xture .Into
JUice 2 portions.
Set aside.
2 tb. P IJO"" 5,lY sauce 5 Remove milkfish skins from the
5 In a saucepan, combine bay leaves.
tsp I.> ~reshly £rou j black pepper marinade. Carefully stuff the milkfish
half an onion. celery leaves and
mixture into 2 skins.
water. Bring to a boil. then reduce
2 stalks I 8(, 9 ce ery 6
heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Add Brush the skins of the stuffed fish
2 bay eav~s the milkfish meat with bones and with oil and transfer onto the greased
simmer 5 more minutes. Remove baking pan.
110G q on.~
the milkfish from the water. and 7 Bake for 30 minutes. until skins are
6 cl.~S 11/5 water let dra in. The main spine should be golden.
L clove~ 10 Co lie separating now. Carefu lly remove
spines and discard. Stra in the stock 9 gges 10
< medi ~-slzed 240 g to."atoe~ and reserve 3 cups I 750 ml for the
accompanying sauce. Starting from the base of the back of the
2 eqqs head, slice each rel/eno diagonally into 6
6 Flake the milkfish meat, taking care pieces, each piece 1 in thick. Place on a
'21j q Eaam c"eese
to remove all the bones. Set flaked serving platter. and serve with sauce (SEE
2 tbsp 1(1 g butte meat aside, and discard bones. PAGE 211) on the side or spread on the

2 tbsp lG 1"'1 oil 7 Crush. peel and mince the garlic. platter.

cup 1200 g frozen peas 8 Pee l and chop remaining onion


fine ly. Tips
• cup 112'; Q ral<lrS
The ideal size of bongus for rel/eno is
9 Peel and chop the tomatoes.
• ,a~d peppe , te tacte 500 g.
10 Beat the eggs lightly in a bowl. Be careful not to tear the skin.
( (lr b'urh n9
The eggs in the recipe act as a binder
11 Grate the cheese to yield '11 cup
for the flaked fish meat and helps keep
Preparation 125 g.
the stuffing moist. .
'2 Soften butter to grease a 36 x In Filipino markets and. increasingly.
Carefully remove the meat from the
46.5-cm I '4 x , 6- in baking pan or In supermarkets. the debonlng can be
4 milkfish, leaving the skins intact done by the vendors. Just Indicate that
tray.
(SEE PAGE 221). The process separates you want the fish for rel/ena. The added
the mllkfish skins from the flesh with service also includes cleaning the fish of
the bones. Cooking its gills {hosongj and removing the guts.
2 Ext rac t"JUice from c%mans; to yield , Preheat oven to 180·C I 350·F. Because ml·Ikfish
I have many fine bones.
2 tbsp 130 ml. It is important to check that they are all
2 In a preheated pan with 3 tbsp removed. Stray bones in rel/enong bongus
3
In a bawl • co mine
b' ca/omans; J'uice oil, saute garlic, onion, celery and
soy sa • are most unpleasant. .. n
. uce and ground pepper. In the tomatoes. Cook for 5-8 minutes. Milkfish can also be cut for Sin/go 9
mixture. marinate the milkfish skinS 3 Add the milkfish meat. peas and (PAGE 63). poksiw (PAGE 120). and dOing
for 20
minutes. Only 2 skins are raisins. and continue to saute for (PArE I 06).
needed for this recipe, but reserve another 2 minutes. Season with salt
Adobong Monok at Boboy I St w d Pork and Chic en in Vinegar and Soy Sauce
DOHO
Vinegar Braised

"Adobo, considered by many a Philippine national dish, is


cooked, pickled meat. Its etymology is the French adouber,
which originally meant 'to dress a knight in armor' and
then proceeded to mean: to arrange, to construct, to
tan leather, and to dress foods. Spaniards introduced
adobar with its marinade, but using island vinegar in the
Philippines rather than grape wine as in the home country.
Vinegar not only flavors, but tenderizes. By packing adobo
(which, in Spanish, means "pickle sauce") in lard, the viand
keeps for several days unrefrigerated." [Felice P. Santa
Maria, "One Pot Orch stra ion," in The Governor General's

Kitchen.]

"... the Spanish and eXlcans sa\' the dish the Filipinos
were alread coo mg, recognized its similarity tc theirs,
and called it 'adabo de los naturales' which are the words
used by dictionary rna er Pedro de San Buenaventura
(1613) ..."

"eer ainly both exican and Filipino adobos are 'pickled'-


one in spices and lemon juice, the other in spices and
vinegar, and one can thus eep (or travel with) both
Ithout refrigera ion: [Doreen G. Fernandez, "The Flavors
of eXlco in Philippme Food and Cui ure-, in Tikim.J
Ad obo sa Gata
Stewea enl'"' (r I ~egar and Coconut Cream
d op JI B Cll, wher. the use )f co
e T )f hf' n l con!,.t
c;.
') regIon indiA' e., fo~" rna 1nl an •
C. ur A l'y
crt gon. an~ "wo . Iclnd provlrcps_

Serves 4 to 6

Cooking
1 kg chicken parts (thighs and breasts) Tips
as preferred In a mixing bowl, comb ine the peeled Saute and brown the Chicken pieces first
garlic and white pepper with the to seal In the juices.
6 cloves 1 30 g garlic vinegar and bay leaves. Because chicken with skin is used
1f4 tsp 11 g white pepper some of the fat from the skin will b~
2 Add the chicken and let sit in the
rendered in the cooking. It is important
'/2 cup 1120 ml vinegar (cane, palm, or marinade for at least 30 minutes.
to remove the excess fat because oil
white) 3 In a deep heated pan, saute the will also form when coconut cream is
chicken pieces in oil until brown cooked.
2 bay leaves
on all sides. Save the remaining
1 tbsp 115 ml cooking oil marinade.

2 cups 1 480 m~ wa~ 4 Remove the excess fat from the pan
w,th a spoon.
1 tbsp 1 15 g salt
5 Add the coconut milk and the
2 cups 1 480 ml fresh coconut mil -
marinade and s.mn>er for 20 minutes
(SEE PAGE 206 )
--- over mediJm heat until chicken
1 cup coconut cream (SEE PAGE 20~) pieces are tender or the liquid has
almos evaporated,
2 to 5 green finger chi ies (slling
pangsigang) 6 Add the coconu cream and green
chil es and allow to Simmer over low
hea for another 2 rrlnutes or until a
Preparation creamy sauce is formed.

Debone the CPIC en parts. ellt he Jus before serving


duc er ,,,to 2.5-cm I 1- n cubes. Repeat the adobo a"d serve hot.
Leave S In on.

2 CrJsr, peel, and rrlflce t e garlic

3 Extrac the cream and mil fro he


ma ure coconu • (SH PAGE 206)
Adobong Baka
Braised Bee f ir Vinegar
J
,.. , be )( kE"u Co l/ CJ. but bf"e on It)
b the eaSl commof'. In Batangas,
d of mea·t - iN"
Ail ,n S b t" c' co'n, "OrK d b ef 01 tOljr+nrr
theY "lake ado a w

Serves 6

Cooking Tips
1 kg beef short ribs
In a mixing bowl, combine the peeled Short ribs work well because beef cuts
'/. cup I 60 ml oil garlic and cracked peppercorns with with some fat result in moist and flavorful
the vinegar, soy sauce, and bay stews. Briskets and the neck (botok) are
6 cloves I 30 g garlic also alternative meat choices.
leaves.
Do not add salt until after the cooking
1/2 tbsp 1 5 g black peppercorns
2 Add beef short ribs and marinate for process is complete so the sauce does not
1/2 cup 1120 ml vinegar (cane, palm, or at least 1 hour. become too salty when reduced.
white) 3 In a deep heated pan, brown the beef
2 tbsp 130 ml soy sauce in oil in two batches over high heat.
Add the rema ining marinade.
2 bay leaves
4 Add the water to the pan. Bring to
4 cups 1960 ml water a boil and immed iately reduce to
a simmer, 82 "C I 180"F, and cook
1 tsp 1 5 g salt
fo r 1'/2 hours or until meat pieces
are fork tender. Season with sa lt
Preparation
accord,ng to taste before the liquid
Have butcher cut the beef short ribs has almost evaporated .
Into 4 cm 11 '/2-in cubes.
Just before serving,
2 Crush, peel, and mince the garlic.
Reheat the adaba and serve hot.
3 Crack black peppercorns.

bunch~ of g3rhc (/)lJ",an<Jl


Adobong Manak a aboy
5:eweO P.." I a.1C:' (Ke'l In v'lYlega r ( ( '>JuC'e
J( kn wn n "t f'n3 :III eve t e ( LJnt V CtA"
drk c 101 ,md cllty f lvor Th E' at m4 lie 1)1 lrl
~ ve It d
e CW lete ,1,,"]11 ~ '1 I. P e mlxe.
_ I..
C " be<t. en tI J
X Trool ; nally, VtlOl'O

Serves 6

4 Remove chicken from mixture. Set Tips


500 9 pork belly (Iiempo) aside. There is no agreement
among Fl' .
coo ks on how m h I Iprno
500 9 chicken parts as preferred (legs 5 Continue simmering until the pork is uc water to
odobo. A rule of th . put 10
and thighs) tender. Oil will be rendered from the umb IS "
water to COver the meat." Th:nough
pork fat. Remove about liJ of the fat
6 cloves 1 30 9 garlic says to cook until the I" d reCipe
from the sauce. Reserve the sauce. Iqui has aim
evaporated, reSUlting in ad' ost
1/2 tbsp 15 g black peppercorns f fler adobo S
6 In another heated pan, add oil or or those who want sauce d . 0,
1/2 cup 1120 ml vinegar (cane, palm, or some of the rendered pork fat. Add the liquid to dry up. , 0 not allow

white) 3-4 cloves of crushed garlic, fry the The . different cooking times of ~~
.
1/4 cup 1 60 ml soy sauce pork until golden brown. Remove the ingredient means this dish requires I
of tt . a ot
pork and set aside. a entlon. Remove the chicken from
2 bay leaves the heat as soon as it is done; the pork
7 Add the chicken pieces and fry until takes a while longer.
enough water to cover meat golden brown. Remove excess oil ThiS recipe uses a combination
and fat rendered . cooki ng method. The chicken and pork
Preparation are simmered In water until tender, and
8 Return the pork to the pot. With a
Slice pork into 2 x 4 cm I 3/4 X 1112 in I ttle water deglaze the pan and add then browned. It is Important never to
pieces. Leave skin on. the sauce that has been reserved. bring the chicken to a boil so it does not
become tough and dry.
2 Crush and peel th e garlic. Just when ready to serve, Another adobo method is to marinate
3 Crack the black peppercorns. the chicken and pork, then brown them
9 Reheat adobo mixture. Gently toss
cooked meats. Serve hot. before braising.
Cooking In the Batangas tradition, to reduce
the saltiness of the dish and for added
1 In a wok, combine the crushed garlic Serving suggestion color. achuete (annatto) water may be
and cracked peppercorns with the substituted for the soy sauce Adding
Arrange adobo on a plate and wrap some
vinegar, soy sauce, and bay leaves. achuete oil to the liquid adds navor,
cooked nee in a banana leaf. Add atchara
2 Add pork, chicken, and water. texture, and color Add 1 tbsp of It to'
(pickled vegetables) as siding. For atchara
cup of water Strain, then add at the end
Simmer ~or 2.0 minutes over medium
3 recipe, see page 205.
of the cooking process. The last 5tep In
heat until chicken is cooked.
the recipe scraping and collecting tne
, °d nd bottom
meat that clings to the 51 es a
of the pot (deglazlng,) an
enrich the sauce, IS the se
d u51ng It to
0

f ry
cret 0 ,e
I
good adobo. chicle"
Healthier adobo uses onlY ,",d'
h fk, but usta
One could keep t e po stage ",1,
m
leaner cut. l ikeWise, the f'y 9
be sipped entl·ely. Me /"tat
can ~3vt
Th S adobo vCrllon adO/1O
d s« cr 5PV
fla ed and tlle~ fr e
flol'es on page 149

(da nq lOurr 1
Adobong Puti
Stewed Pork and Chicken in White Vinegar
Wh te odobogets 'ts name from the "white" [,.e., clear) v'"egar It uses-the appearance of the dish
is actually brown , due to the fryJng. PUrists JnSlst that "white adobo'· ,s the c'asslc versl·on ' b ecause
it highlights the trio of basic odobo flavors: vinegar, garlic and peppercorns, and eliminates soy
sauce, which tends to drown out th e otner f lavors.

SeMS4 to 6

Cooking Tips
500 g pork belly (liempo)
In a mixing bowl, combine the crushed Some may point out that th
6 cloves I 30 g garlic garlic and cracked peppercorns with of adobo spices sold. e Packtts
In the br
markets include lou I pU Ie
the vinegar and bay leaves, . .. re, or bay leaf
'/2 tbsp I 5 g black peppercorns ThIS recIpe Insists that th b·
. e aSle odobo.
2 Add pork and chicken pieces. Let sit need not Include laurel as w"11
1f2 cup I 120 ml vinegar .. "asthe
in the marinade for at least 1 hour, other ingredIents that add co Ior and
(cane, palm, or white) .
3 Using a heated pan, pour in the complexIty-soy sauce, achuete, and
2 bay leaves coconut milk.
cooking oil. Fry the pork pieces until
500 g chicken parts as preferred brown. Add the chicken pieces and
(leg quarter, breast. wings) fry until brown. (Save the remaining
marinade.) Remove some of the
1 tbsp cooking oil
rendered fat
2 cups I 480 ml water
4 Add the water and the marinade
1 tbsp salt to the pan. Simmer for 20 minutes
over medium heat until the meat
".p.8IIon pieces are tender or liquid has
almost evaporated. Taste and correct
1 SIitt port belly into 2.5 x 5 em I 1 x 2
seasoning.
in slice along the rib. Leave skin on.
Just bdore serving,
2 Crush and pm the gartic.
Reheat the odobo and serve hot
3 CrId black peppatOmS.
Adobong Pusit
stewed SqJ d
c t"e .... in IK s t- ett r Ie: l >Nr vel sion.
~ L - l e

Serves 4 to 6

Cooking Tips \
18-20 pcs 11 kg squid Since squid can sometimes be tough, boil
Heat the pan until very hot, add the
2 cloves 110 g garlic oil and saute the garlic until brown. the cleaned squid in water (without the
ink sacs) with a little ginger, until tender.
3 tbsp I 45 ml oil 2 Add the squid, paprika, bay leaves, Then proceed with the cooking process.
salt and pepper, and saute for 2 To cook this dish with the ink, break
1 tsp 12 g paprika mnutes. the ink sacs onto the squid and cook for
2 bay leaves one minute before pouring in the vinegar,
3 Pour In the vinegar and soy sauce
soy sauce and fish stock.
1 tbsp 115 g salt and add the fish stock. Bring to a
bOI then immediately reduce heat to
lh tsp 11 g freshly ground pepper
a bare simmer 82 ' C I l80' F. Cover.
10 tbsp \150 ml vinegar 4 Cook for 45 minutes or until the
2 tbsp \30 ml soy sauce squ ld is fork tender.

1 cup fish stock Just before serving,


Add the green finger chilies and
6160 9 green finger chilies
simmer for anotrer 5 minutes. Serve
not.
Preparation
Detach the head of the squ .d from
the body. Remove the Ink sacs and
reserve for future use.
2 Discard the beak inside the head.
Discard the st ff membrane from the
body Clean the squid thoroughly
under runnmg water. Set aSide.
3 CrUSh, peel and ml'lce the gark
Adob ong Kangkong
Braised Water Spinach
Pus is a verslor 0 f t
~e or go 'pan opon a.1obori", wde- <Pi" 3C C'lr ked '- .dob, Tultipo IS
, b t< ~f park fat th~t "Jve bee~ re~ ere' of [II. Tre 'ulopc IS ~olr by bo"e"e, or
spr nkled on p, I .
panadena. beca use they still use porI< lard t1 n-ake their coo',r,. Some of these are 'he hojaldres'
nadas COOkie recipes mhe" .ed from tre Spanish.
kinamonci I an d bo ,

Serves 4

Cooking Tip
1 kg water spinach (kangkongj
Just before serving , in a heated frying Besides water spinach (k
1 cup I 240 ml water pan, add oil, saute garlic and onion and long beans (sito) onglong), 01"
w , can be Cook d
1 tsp I 5 9 salt
until on ion is translucent. the adobo style. Blanch vegetablesf~r In
seconds, remove, drain and cool b f 15
2 cloves I 10 9 garlic 2 Add the water spinach bundles into k· C . e ore
coo Ing . ooklng the water s· h
the pan. plnac In
bundies makes a neater .
21160 9 onions . presentation
3 Add immediately the vinegar, salt, Tie the uncooked wa ter spinach ·
In smail
200 9 cooked lechan kawali (PAGE 109) sugar, and pepper. bundles with a stem or a sprig of chIVe.

2 tbsp I 30 ml oil 4 Simmer for 5 to 8 minutes or until


li qu id has almost evaporated, stirring
1/4 cup I 60 ml white vinegar
often but carefu ll y so that the
1 tsp I 5 g salt bundles do not come undone.

1 tbsp I 15 g brown sug ar 5 Add th e pork and cont inue cooking


for an oth er minute.
1/2 tsp I 1 g ground pepper
6 Se rve very ho t.
Preparation
Serving suggestion
Wash and trim water sp inach,
discard ing roots and th ick stems. Cut Wi thou t t he meat, thi s can be served as
into 10 cm strips starting from the a vegeta bl e accompan iment to any grilled
t ips of the leaves. Bund le about 8 or f ried meat e.g., crispy pata (PAGE 105),
stems of spinach and t ie with a stem ch icken masal (PAGE 102), lechon ka wali
of chive. (PAGE 109) or fish (pinaputok na isda, PAGE
131 ).
2 Boil the water then add t he sa lt.
Blanch the water sp inach bund les
for 15 seconds. Remove t he water
sp inach, dra in and immed iate ly coo l
to stop the cooki ng.
3 CruSh, pee l, and mince the garli c.
4 Pee l and chop on ions.
5
Cu t lechon kawali into 1-cm I 1f.-in
CUbes.
C1T
Noodl es

"Paneit comes from the Hokkien pian+e+sit, which means


'something that is conveniently cooked' and originally did
not necessarily mean noodles. The noodle dish became
ind igen ized-accu Itu rated, ada pted to loca I ingredients,
tastes, occasions." [Doreen G. Fernandez, "The Noodles of
Our [Long] Lives", In Tikim.]

Go anywhere in the Ph ilippines and you can get paneit.


Each town, province or reg ion has a version that differs by
noodle, by sauce, by garn ish ing, by cooki ng procedure.

Noodles can b otorlyhon, bihon, can ton or mikl. The


names of the noodl dishes are descriptive in that they can
indicate color {pula}, the place where it is sold (istasyon),
how it is eaten (habhab), the supposed inventor (Henoy), its
provenance ( 1ufobon).

There are two methods for cooking poneit: sauteing for


a dry version, or a soupy version that includes broth in
wh ich to boil the noodles. The pan cit mayor need not
have sohog, the term for the bits of meat or seafood and!
or getabl s mix d in with the noodles. [Michaela Fenix,
"Coun ry Coo ing", Philippine Doily Inquirer.]

Pan 1 Ulsado

sauteed R ce Nood e
te Cp quP B,hor> IS vne of the ba '

Sf e

2 Peel and devein the shrimps. Reserve


4 cups 1 t P co d water When ready to serve:
the heads and shell trimmi ngs to
tsp 2qsa+ make the shrimp stock (SEE PAGE 207). , Add the d .
ry nce noodles and toss with
3 the rest of the cooked ingredients.
4 ts 1 9 wlJole b a:::K oepperwrns Soak the dried shiitake mushrooms
until soft. Drain and discard t he 2 Cook unhl all the liquid and the
2'iC g pork be y !tempo cooked Ingredients have been
hard stems. Cut the caps into '/2 cm
200 9 sl" rrps strips. absorbed and incorporated into the
noodles.
30 g dr ed ~hlltaKe '111.1 hroorrs 4 Crush, peel, and mince the garlic.

water for soak nq 'Tll.lshroorrs 5 Peel and chop the onion. Serving suggestion
6 Cut the cabbage in long narrow Place the cooked noodles on a platter or
L c oves 10 9 gdr c
stri ps of '/2 cm I 114 in . indivi dual bowls. Garnish with thin slices
• 80 9 on on of kamias. Serve with halved colomons;
7 Peel and cut carrot into julienne
and ad ditional fi sh sauce as needed on
tsp lqsa t
5 rips.
the si de.
SD 2 q qrourd b olC pe per a StriP beans of ribs and cut diagonally
Into lh -cm 11/4- in long strips.
4 tbsp 60 m soy Jce Tips
9 Slice the kam ias crossw ise thinly. Unlike other noodles, bihon does not
2 bsp 30 m f h '>aUU'
need to be soaked beforeh and. This keeps
10 Ha lve the calomonsi.
00 9 caboagf' the noodles intact and allows them to
absorb the flavors from the broth.
60 gsa car Cooking The shrimp juice is an important fl avor
60g ee In a wok, add the fat portion that of this dish.
was set aside and render oil until Cutting the vegetables into equal -
crispy. Set aside the crispy fat. Using Sized strips allows for even cooking. Set
aside some of the vegetables to ladle on
the same oil, saute the garlic, onion,
top of the finished dish for presentation.
shrimps, and sliced pork. Add the
Bihon is available in all f ilipino markets
shrimp stock. and groceries. There are va rieties that are
2 Season with salt, pepper, soy, and first rate and some Imported ones that
fish sauces. carry the term "rice sticks"
3 Add the carrots and green beans.
Sir-fry for 1 minute.
4 Add he cabbage and mushrooms
and continue coolong for another
m nute
5 Add the par broth and let bOIl.
Sota 1 GUisado
f\fiu ng Bea n Noodl Saute
e of their tra nslucen t .
rte Kong nr Ch"Ina and th us quality when
n Spf"C 11 Dec "'''''ons. we re ex pe n ~i ve:.

7 Peel
1 1250 g cf\lcke n breast, bone-ir
. an d slice the carrot into th O
In
strips. Serving suggestion
20 9 blac~ fungus (tengang aaga) 8 Slice green beans or snow peas into Serve on a platter with the fried .
diagonal thin pi eces. spring onions sprinkled liberall9arlic and
w2'er to soa Mushroo!Tl Have the halved ca/omonsi, fi~ho~a~:'
9 When the black fun gus has hydrated
250 9 mung bean noodies (sotangno n) and a black pepper mill ready on the side:
and increased in size, strain. Cut into
4 cups 1 ter water thin strips.
Tips
2 '00 g small o~io r s 10 Strain the soaked noodles.
Noodlescome in grades and for this dish
16 180 9 garl c cloves 11 Chop the spring onions finely. the sotonghon must be first clals. 1hi;
means the noodles will remain whole and
12 Slice each colamansi in two. intact when cooked.
100 9 fresh sf't"I"'PS
13 Make the annatto oil. All noodle dishes derive their flavor
2 '00 9 carrots from the broth and ingredients like shrimp
100 9 green beans (hablchue/os) or juice. Black fungusaddstexture and color
Cooking
snow peas (chichDro) to the dear sotanghon. 1he chicken
Place ch icken bones, blended shrimp and vegetables should be cut in equal-
6 ..... ,amansl heads and trimmings, and water into size stri ps for even cooking and better
a pot. Boil for 30 minutes. Strain the presentation. Simply adding more chicken
2 sprigs I 20 g spr '1g onions
broth and reserve. Discard the soli d and shrimp broth to the cooked noodles
6 tbsD 90 rnl anratto 01 (E PA E 207) makes a soup version of this dish.
pieces.
4 cups 960 ml water Just before serving,
r.sh sauce (patls), salt and pepper to 2 In a preheated pan, pour in the
aste
annatto oil.

3 Saute the onion and the other half


Preparation
of the minced garlic until both are
Debone chicken breast. Slice into translucent in color.
stnps. Reserve the bones for the
4 Add the sliced chicken, shrimps, and
stOCk.
black fungus,
2 Soak the black fungus in water.
5 Pour in the broth and immediately
3
Soak the noodles In water for at least add the presoaked noodles. Bring ~o
30 minutes. a simmer and cook until the liqUid
4 has been absorbed by the noodles.
Peel and slice he onion thinly,
5 6 Add the carrots and green bea ns.
Cr peel, and mince the garlic.
<; ,
Use a qor COOKing" Toss well by using 2 ladles.
and the other
a f for ga'nlsn 7 Season with fish sauce, salt, and
6 Pee and d pepper accordingly.
n he S rll1'Ips. Rese ve
In a small pan With 01, 'I f ry the
t ad a d shell r ml g5 Blend B
a fOOd roceSsor Se aSide ' remaining minced garbc. Se t aSi de
Pancit Lu gJo
Rice Noodles witr Topping') an(. ~auce

e of t unkmc ..
to d,nk In wate I T~ I caked
L qlC I n e~, I to e H tern, e f ",c din n
m dle'i n "'ot WJte

dies ~re tJS~ ~ In thispam Il, e 'If e "th t f h nl 'o",n..,f f:. M, I,bor In the
Thll k \i "tte rIce nlD .. nt::Jln rnosllv '\ie'll od c dmq hw k r1 Q'y t r,. unlit M'llab(ln I~
f 'vlanda . The $c Jce '
llrho f ddho'vert-h Cluntr
If' ndary and IS row I, un

~erves 6

r --
· k r I~
500 g' hIC "
r,oc'e~
. ,

water 'or soak 19 noodles


panClt /'JO/og
4 Peel and devein the shrimps. Set aside
in the chiller for later use as topping
for the paneit. Strain and reserve the
Tips
Thin rice noodles Or b'h
' I on are So
- .
substituted for the thOk' metlm . es
broth, as well as the heads and shell Ie er luglo 8
2 cloves I '09 garlrc noodles do not need to b g. Ihon
trimmings and make a stock (1 cup I b T' e soaked before
01 109. Simply simmer until tend
200 q shr s 240 mIl to flavor the sauce (SEE PAGE Th er.
e sauce and toppings for p
207). L I onm
pmch c/ salt ug og are traditionally POured Or
arranged over the noodles. An alternative
4 tbsp I 60 a~'1atto (aehuetp ) 011 Cu • . Q IS to mix the noodles gently into the
( E t 2071 sauce until evenly distributed before
In a pot, heat the annatto oil and toppings are scattered On top.
4 tbsp I 609 g -purpose flot.
saute garlic for 1 minute.
4 Cu~; 960 rT'1 chiC er sUck
2 Add the flour, whisking continuously.
1 tbsp I 20 m f 5 sauce (pot 5, Cook for another minute.

• tep .75 9 white pepper 3 Add the shrimp stock and chicken
stock and cook for about 15 minutes,
stirring continuously.
Preparat ion
4 Season the resulting sauce with fish
Soak the rice noodles in water for 4
hours. sauce and pepper. Set aside and keep
warm.
2 Crush, peel and mince the garlic.
5 Borl the noodles for 2-3 minutes,
3 Bring 1 cup of water to a boil. Add then drain. Cooked noodles will
the shrimps and a pinch of salt. expand to approximately 1.2 kg .
Remove from the heat as soon as
shrrmps turn pink. 6 Prepare the toppings (see following
spread).

and
Th .1«
ooodkS o.
Ih n rl«
noodfts Of
3

Toppings
bilimbi (kamias)

2 pork crackling (chlch.ron)

smoked ftsh flakes (Mapa)


1

4 hard.bOlltd egg

S fuglOQ sauce

6 ~ud ,ng'

'" rl:mt3

spr"9 " s
8

'J I", l'


Pancit Luglog Toppings 3 Slice pork into strips. tender. Season with salt and pepper.
Set aside.
5 clovesl2S 9 gar/lc 4 Wash squid and remove tentacles.
Peel off skin from the body and slice 3 To make squid topping: Preheat
1 180 gonion
into rings. Remove beak and ink sac the same pan once more with the
250 g pork meat from tentacles. Wash to clean. remaining portion of the annatto
oil. Saute 1 portion of the garlic and
250 9 squid S Flake the smoked fish and wrap in
the remaining portion of the onion
aluminum foil.
100 g smoked fish (tinapa) and 1 bay leaf. Add the squid rings
6 Remove the steamed shrimps and tentacles and cook until tender.
~pork cracklings (chicharonL Season with salt and pepper. Set
from the chiller (see ingredients in
2 sprigs I 10 g coriander eaves preceding sauce recipe). aside.
(wansuy)
7 Coarsely chop the pork cracklings. 4 In the same pan, fry the remaining
2 spr~s 109 spnng oniors chopped garlic. Set aside.
8 Chop the coriander leaves.
4 tbsp I 60 ml annatto oil (PAGE 207) S Roast wrapped flaked smoked fish on
9 Chop the spring onions.
the stove.
_3 eggs
10 Divide annatto oil into 2 portions of
2 bay leaves 2 tbsp I 30 ml each.
Assembly
sa t and pepper Whether for family-size serving or for
Cook'ng single-size serving, place cooked noodles
"'1/amans I, a~ accorT'pa mert
n
Hard boil the eggs. When done, peel on a plate then pour sauce over. the
'I~ sauce, as ~"companlf"\e.,; and slice into wedges and set aside. noodles. Arrange the following toppings
While the eggs are cooking do the over the sauce: pork, squid, shrimps, and
Preparation next procedures. eggs. Sprinkle on top the flaked sm~ked
fish and the chopped pork cracklings.
C'Jsh peel - d . 2 To make the pork topping: In a
DV d ' dn mince the garrc. coriander leaves, spring onions. and fned
preheated pan with 1 portion of the
t equally nto 3 portions. gar/ic. Serve with sliced ca/amans l and
2 annatto oil, saute 1 portion of the
Pe_1 and h fish sauce.
- C op the onion . D, Jlde garlic, 1 portion of the onion, and:
eqJa { oto 2 POrtions. bay leaf. Add the pork and cook until
Cassava Bibin gka
"'
Ca550 v ~ ,-,a l
, . e In sugal, or grated I.'h ~n cooked
c ena,1..o e ,..l c; LJS
lnr )

Serves 6 to 8

Cooking
2 kg cassava (kamateng kahoy) Tips
Bake the cassava mixture in the pre- Instead of small tartlet molds, a 12-in
~ cups 1330 ml coconut milk heated oven for 20-25 minutes or until round non-stick pan may also be used.

-- (SEE PAGE.~2::0:::

3 whole eggs
6):..-_ _ _ _ _ _ __

2
almost set with the center still soft.
Meanwh ile, make the topping.
Another option to cassava is grated
sweet potatoes, or komote.

r IJ cups 13~9 white _su---,g:-a_r _ _


Cassava Cake Topping
~ 3 ml~~illa essence __
1 /1 cups I 330 ml coconut cream
13 cup 1 75 ml evaporated _m Ik
(SEE PAGE 206)
1 tbsp 1 15 g butter
3 egg yolks
banana leaves
1/1 cup I 163 m condersed Milk
12 3-Jn tartlet Molds or 1 round '2 - n
2 bsp I 33 9 butter
nonstick pa'1
1 tsp I 3 r'll vam a essence
Preparation
Preheat oven to 180' C 1 350' F Preparation
2 Peel cassava . Grate to yield 4 cups. Prepare tre extracted coconut cream.
3 If USing mature cocorut, extrac
rJ1 1,k, Reserve coconut cream fror'l Cooking
the Irst pressing for he topping.
Comb :oe he egg yolks, condensed
4 Crack the eggs Into a bowl. Add t e mil. butter. ard vanilla essence
grated cassava, coconut ml , sugar, In a saucepan. Cook over low heat,
va~' a essence, and e aporated mi. stlfring contlfluously, until mixture
I. well, becomes sticky. Add the coconut
5 cream and continue to cook until
Cut the banafla 'eaves In 0 4 1h - in
round Ii ers to I,ne the bottom and thiCk.
SIdes of e mold. Grease the banana 2 Spread he mixture In a thin, layer on
lea es w. e softened bu er l.lfle op of the baked cassava caKes.
e a Ie r'lO ds 50 g Re urn the cassava ca es to the oven
3
6 e cassa a IT! x ure No h'led (180' C I 350' F) and ba e for another
o ds atlOJ three-qua I."rs of 10 minutes, or ntil golden brown.
p
Serving Suggestions
~ e nd dual cassa a ca es In their
banana leaf 0 ds 0 from e a en. or
Buko Fru · a ad
qC ( .... Sc... ( (
P lr ety )r • e )
un ~"t ld" ) t Tnr
!o
r II e "trelj~(I,
fr It II I ) dlw V j

Serves 6

Cooking
'2 cup I 125 g ch eddar ch eese Tips
In a preheated double boiler, place the Chilling cheese in the freezer for
• car I 850 g fn,lIt cocl<tail
egg yolks, fresh milk, and sugar and minutes will make it easie t 30
,. r 0 grate
2 cup I 125 '11 a -purpose crearr mix thoroughly. Whisk continuously Traditionally, only th' k '
Ie, whipped
for 10 minutes, or until a creamy aII -purpose cream is used Th'
' . ' IS may be
2 eggs enriched With a Custard ,asIinS
th' rfCIpe.
,
custard is formed. Set aside and .
Meat f' orr 1 young cocor.ut {bukoj allow to cool to room temperature. Some recipes call for mayonnaise as well
as cream,
(SEE PA •206)
2 In a large m:xing bowl, put all Set aside some sliced peaches and
1 cup I 120 ml fres'1 'T' I the drained fruit cocktail, raisins, cherries to decorate the salad for
coconut S ripS, and whipped cream. serving .
• tbsp I 12 g white sugar
Add tre custard and mix well. Add
1 cup I 250 g ra sms the cheddar cheese.

frUit scraper 3 Transfer t e fru salad to a covered


conla ner and chili for 2 hours before
serJlng.
Preparation
(Two hours before serving)
Grate the c eddar cheese.
2 Drain t e can of fruit coc a I.
3 hip teall-purpose cream,
4 5epara e the eggs, and discard the
w I es.
5 It scra~r, scrape e meat
rom e oung coconut mto long
hln S r ps.
Guinomis
pandan and Molass~s-flavor~d Gelatin
ary ced f1'Ie Jl t ndL cone c .... n> th I)ffe reI e~ II" th,. t"')OII I clirr -,t
t G
T~ °e ar e~. 1UJm m's I1ke
p
'11 co

I .. (.h(.'ved Ice trfat bt. w t feIN r I gre l Ie.'· (OCOl"lJ+ milk tn~ e d f '
- . .-110- );>. , ..)l a 0 (1W<;. l'ulk
'u parttCU ar nchnelis. Pam.cha, or nlOlas:. S cake. ot mlv Neo"ten< ut unJq I fl '
gIVe J U"" Y c- 'Iors
l' df''isert.

Serves 4

4 cups I 960 ml water 3 Cut gulaman or gelatin into cubes. Tips


~100 g uncooked sago (tapioca 4 In a saucepan, boil 3 cups of water It is possible to substitute the pondon
pearls) with 4 pandan leaves, molasses cake leaves with 'il tsp I 2 ml pondon flavoring
and brown sugar. Let it simmer, added to a little water.
'/2 bar 15 g red agar-agar (gulaman) stirring until the sugar and molasses White agar-agar and white syrup
have dissolved. Reduce until mixture can be combined to make an all -white
3 cups I 720 ml water variation of guinomis.
thickens into a syrup. Set aside and
'/J cup 140 g wh ite sugar let cool. Remove the leaves and
discard.
3 cups I 720 ml water
5 In another pan, dry-toast the pinipig.
4 screwpine (pandan) leaves
----- Set aside.
'/2 pc I 350 g molasses cake (panacha)
6 If using a mature coconut, extract
1 cup I 240 g brown sugar the cream.

16 tbsp 1120 g pinipig (pounded young


rice grains) Assembly
1'/2 cups I 360 ml freshly squeezed Just before serving :
coconut cream (SEE PAGE 206)
Into four tall glasses, portion and layer
4'/2 cups 11 liter shaved ice the ingredients-tapioca, agar-agar
(gulaman), pinipig and pandan syrup. Top
Preparation and Cooking generously with shaved ice and pour in
1 coconut cream. Serve immediately.
In a saucepan, boil the 4 cups of
wate r and add the tapioca. Cook,
stlrnng continuously, until the
tapioca is transparent. Drain and
nnse under running water. Put in a
bOWl and set aside.
2
In another saucepan, soak the agar-
ag .
ar 'n 3 cups water for 10 minutes
then add the sugar. Bring to a boil'
CoOkmg
. unt'I h
i t e agar-agar has'
dissolved I
. camp etely. Strain and
pOI ur Into a flat-bottomed shallow
g assc t'
on amer. Refrigerate to set.

molasses ca ke (panocha)
Halo-halo
Mixed Fruits and Beans in Shaved Ice
10 the tradiWnal '311 ,Iutee qla, , • 'an ed: r ,no le<s baroque 5 I d
'Se rvee J P . ' p en or On
• soar ng Sight lifts the Spirit an( ha' 'he pllwe r to ban"h the heat A • sapping
day I " e . . separate 01
• I' halo-halo especial. It IS the hu,..,ble regul.r but knlgh"ed by Ih b'I' a's
aIWget.,el ' . e no I Ity of Phil! I
che f,on [egg yolk custald) and makopuno [a rare vdriety of COCon t) pp ne
,weets - le . . u -surmounted b a
f ce cream, topped by a towering mound of shaved ice, sprinkled ove 'th . Y
scoop 0 I . "., . r WI toasted p'nipi
~ ~I
'Ice Cflsp,es) and sugar [Luning Sonlfaclc Ira, "Halo-Halo" In The Cul,n ~u~of~
C I 9

Ph IIlPpme'.]

Macapuno (Cocon ut Sport) Kondol (Wintermelon)


White Beans
YI~ld' P/. cups
Yield: cup Yield: 3 cu ps

1 cup /185 g meat from 1 young '/2 / 200 g wintermelon (kondol)


1 cup 1180 g white beans
coconut (buko) _ __ 2 cups / 480 ml water
8 cups I 2 liters water
7 cup /100 g sugar
1 cup / 200 g sugar 3/4 cup 1150 g sugar
1'/2 cups / 180 ml water

Soak beans in water overnight.


Crack open coconut sport and grate meat Peel wintermelon. Remove seeds and core.
into strips. Cut into l-cm cubes.

Transfer the white beans with the water


to a pot, add sugar and bring to a boil.
Combine wintermelon, water and sugar Simmer for 45 minutes until beans are
Combine coconut strips, water and sugar
in a pot. Boil for 15 minutes or until tender. Drain and transfer to a bowl.
in a pot. Boil for 20 minutes, or until
wintermelon is cooked. Transfer to a bowl. Refrigerate until ready to use.
coconut strips are cooked. Transfer to a
bowl. Refrigerate until ready to use. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Langka (Jackfruit)
v,eld 1 cup
Kamote (Sweet Potato) Saga (Ta pioca Pearl s)
Yield 1 • tops Veld 1 ,~p~ 1 cup I 165 g jackfruit
2 244 g sweet potato (kamote)
1
1 cup 170 g tapioca pearls 11/2 cups 1180 ml water
2 cups /480 ml water 8 cups I 2 liters water '2 cup 1100 g suga r
1 cup 200 g sugar 112 cup I 100 g sugar
Prepar Cut jackfruit crosswise into strips.
aratlc
Peel sweet t
po atoes. Cut into l-cm cubes. Soak tapioca pearls in water overnight.
Cookll~ Combine jackfruit, water, and sugar in a
pot. Boil for 20 minutes or until jackfrUit IS
Combine SWeet cooked. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate
in a pot B '1 potatoes, water and sugar Transfer tapioca pearls and water to a pot
. 01 for 15 m t until ready to use.
potatoes a InU es or until and add sugar. Boil for 35 minutes or until
Refrlgerater~nCtOloked. Transfer to a bowl. pearls are tender and translucent. When
, ready to use.
done, drain and put in a bowl. Refrigerate
until ready to use.
Koong (Sugar Palm Tips
Haleyang Ube (Purple Yam) y, There are no st .
E net rules f
ve:ryone IS f ree to Or halO-halo
'yelt 11 1(1 1 cup 1120 r, slIq' r <lIm preference: for the m" express theIr ow·
1 kg purple yam lube) • IX of 109 d" n
1 cup I 240 ml w~ter A flOe ice sha . re lents
ve r IS d .
1 /' cup I 250 g sugar excellent halo-ha lo. Evapor
nee ted for an
' 1 cup I 200 q sugar traditional. but fresh '1 a ed milk 1\
3 cups I 750 ml coconut milk half works fine. ml k Or half·and.
1/, can I 150 ml condensed milk The reci pes show how to
Wash suga r palm . each of the ingredi prepare
1/, bar I 125 g butter H ents from
ow ever, an are available. r Scratch.
and bottled. White d eadY·cOoked
an colored b
II re d mung beans. sugar palm (' " ns'
Combine sugar palm, water and sugar coconut gel (nota de coco) sw ,Oong).
Boil the ya m until tender. Peel and cut
in a pot. Boil for 12-15 minutes or until bananas and jackfruit (Iongko)
into cubes, then grind in a food processor
syrup thickens. Transfer to a bowl and .
'
areetened
.
with the sugar and coconut milk. available in bottles in th e eaSily
refrigerate until ready to use. . . e superma,k t
Transfer to a heavy pan, add the condensed rna k109 It almost effortl e55 to quick!e ,
assemble a ho/o-ho/o bUffet. Y
milk and butter and cook on low . heat,
stirring continuously, until the mixture Pinipig (Pounded Young Rice)
holds together and starts separating from " j p

the pan. Transfer to a shallow pan lined '12 cup I 50 g roasted young rice
with plastic film and allow to cool. 1 sweet potato (komote)
2 sugar palm (kaong)
Red Monggo Beans 3 coconut sport (macopuno)
Roast pounded young rice in wok for 7- 10 4 pounded dry ,ice (pinipig)
~
minutes or until toasted. Set aside. 5 coconut gel (nata de coco), bottled
I cup I 180 g red mung beans
6 wintermelon (kondol)
8 cups I 2 liters water Gulaman (Red Agar-Agar) 7 caramel custard (/eche flon , SEE PAGE 197)
2 8 purple yam jam (haleyong ube)
3/4 cup 1150 g sugar
I I 6 g red agar-agar bar 9 white beans
10 corn kernels, canned
5 cups I 1.2 liters water 11 plantain (saba)
Soak beans in water overnight. 12 red manggo beans
1/4 cups I 50 g sugar
13 red agar-agar (gulaman)
14 tapioca pearls (sago)
In a pot. place the red mung beans with 15 jackfruit (langka)
In a saucepan, soak the agar-agar bar in 3
the water and sugar and bring to a boil.
cups water for 10 minutes, then add sugar.
Simmer for 45 minutes until beans are
Bring to a boil, stirring continuously to
tender. Drain and transfer to a bowl.
Refrigerate until ready to use. keep lumps from forming, until the agar-
agar has dissolved completely.
Saba (Plantain) Strain and pour into a shallow, f lat-
2 p' bottomed glass container. Refrigerate to
4\ 450 g plantains set. Cut into cubes.

I cup \ 240 ml water

I cup \ 200 g sugar J. t.:~

It is fun to make a selection from a variety


of ingredients. Make halo-halo layered in
Peel plantains and cut into cubes. a tall glass, and cover with shaved ice up
to the rim. Add sugar, if desired. Pour in
u .ung a little milk, and top with a spoonful of
Combine plantains, water, and sugar in a
leche flon (SEE PAGE 197) and haleyong ube
pot. Bod for 12 minutes or unt',1PIantainS
. (purple yam jam). If you wish, add a scoop
are . cooked. Transfer to a bowl and of ice cream .
refrigerate until ready to use.

174 I KULtNARYA I A Guidebook to Phili


14
puto
Rice Cakes
·t very own day on [ece bt"l r. n
en has I 5 'e· C If On r I t~nq PUT) da
'PutO e.v house: anyone C;;!" go UI ~n -I t nat· Ire
an open "8 C'e)k 1nd I 'f ~very
hOUse is kec; the bes t" [Grlda Cordero" nan, o. I I
FDC . II <l F:um Ife" Ir PhJlIfI lje who In
town ma - I 'PIJlTlc Food

alld [Ife.]

Yields 30 pieces

Pandan Flavored Rice Cake


I cup 1185 9 rice Pandan Puto Tips

- I 225 ml water Use the puto recipe, and add It i~ important not to Open the steamer
]Cup - dU"ng COoking ti me as this affects the \
1 tbsp 113 9 cooked__
ric_e - - - - - 6 leaves mature screwpine (pondan), or "sing of the puto. \
its equivalent flavoring Apart from muffin pans, small, round \
'h cup 195 9 white sugar _ _ __ sawsowan containers of porcelain
1tb;l9 9 baking powder or pla stic can be used. 13/4 diameter \
Preparation
containers were used for this recipe.
plastic wrap Trim the bottom part of the pandan Soaking the rice for the right length of \
time is critical.
leaves and discard. Cut the rest of
oil for brushing plastiC wra p In the old days. a stone grinder was
the leaves into 5-cm pieces then mix
used to grind the soaked rice. Today. a
with water. In a blender, puree the
Preparation blender approxi mates stone-gro und rice
mixture. Strain, discard leaves.
Wash rice and soak in water for at better than a food processor.
2 Wash rice and soak in the pandan Use a fine cheesecloth to strain the \
least 5 hours.
water for at least 5 hours. Follow the mixture, rocking the cloth from side to
2 Add the cooked rice. puto recipe. side; it is more effiCIent than squeezing
the cloth. \
3 Pour in the soaked rice into the
Puto may be stored in the freezer, but
blender. Add some of the water used Serving suggestion separate the pieces with wax paper. Thaw
for soaking unti l it reaches the level and steam before serving.
Serve puto alongside noodle dishes (PAGES
of the rice. Blend for 11/2 minutes Pandan puto is not only colorful, it has
157-159).
only. Repeat with the remaining that distinct flavor and aroma.
rice.
4 Pour the blended rice into a bowl.
Add the rest of the water, sugar,
and baking powder. Mix to a smooth
mixture.
5 Usi ng cheesecloth or a very fine
sieve, stra in the mixture into another
bowl.
6 Brush the plastic wrap with oil, then
line each well of a muffin pan. Trim
the wrap so that each one fits snugly
Into each wel l.
7 Pour 2 tbsp of mixture into each
muffin wel l.

COoking
1
Place the muffin pan inSide a steamer.
Steam for 15 minutes over high heat
~nd i sturbed .
2
When COOled, pul. up each puto using
tre plastic map. RemoJe the wrap s<:rewp,ne (pandan)
and dl5(:ard. I 111
A I Sn ac~5
L

lERIE\ D
1<utsinta
I" A 'pi d 10 • 01. ( pot with d I
tp. te- T ,Lh c rccnt te fit ' Ight cr,rk
I pred dovin dro b
Ir.l la' r owl un p, e h TI" w t~e e, e' fa, rna k n9 nee . cak P. V rlrop
[C.d Corde OF rr rdC) 'I' tlnq ',A.hlOtheWoodS . P such"
tove , 10 Philippine

Yields 10 piece,

5 Using
" a cheesecl oth or a very f'me Tips
1 12 cups 302 g rice Sieve, stra,n t he mixtu re into another Lye water, which gives kutsinto its
3 2 cups 800 ml water bowl. broWnish color ' 15 available commerCIally
.
' d
6 Brush the plast ic wrap with oil, then to a Ye Always check the date of expiration
~ tbsp lye water (fihwo) as It has a relatively short shelf life '
line each well of a muffi n pan. Trim
112 cups I 258 g brown sugar the wrap so that ea ch one fits snugl y Apart fro m muffin pans, small, 'round
SOwsowo n containers of porcelain or
Into each well.
£,a~c wrap plastic can be used.
7 Pour 2 tbsp of mixture into ea ch Use a fine cheesecloth to strain the
oil for brushing plastic wrap
muffin well. mixture, rocki ng the cloth from side to
side; it is more efficient than squeezing
Preparation the cloth.
Cooking
Wash rice and soak in water for at
Place the muffin pan in a steam er.
least 5 hours.
Steam for 45 minutes to an hour
2 Put half the soaked rice in the blender. over medium heat.
Add soaking water up to the level of
the rice. Blend for 1'12 minutes only. 2 When cooled, pull up each piece
using the plastic wrap. Remove the
Repeat with the remaining rice.
wrap and discard.
3 Pour the blended rice into a bowl.
4 Add th e remaining water, lye water, Serving suggestion
and sugar. Mix well until smooth
and all the sugar has dissolved. ' Serve the kutslnto with grated coconut.
Palitaw
Rice Paste Ro ll ed in Sesame

Yields 12 pieces

1 cup 1185 g glutinous nee (malagktt) Tips


Toast the peanuts. Chop coarsely. Politow is traditionally
2 cups 1 450 ml water cakes. sel'led as ftat oval
2 Toast the sesame seeds.
The soaking p
1 2 cups 1375 g peanuts . rocess of at least 3 h
3 Combine he sugar, toasted sesame IS an Important st . ' . Ours
ep In achleVin
14 cup 1 60 g sesame seeds seeds, and peanuts on a plate. right reSUlts. g th~

4 Crac the coconut and grate the In the old days, a stone grinder w
12 cup I 95 g white sugar
used to grind the soaked rice T d as
mea (SEE PAGE 206). Set aside. bl . a ay a
1 mature coconut ender approximates stone-ground r:ce
better than a food processor.
Cooking The sesame seeds and ground peanuts \
Preparation can be served separately.
Palttaw WI h water,
Wash rice then soa in the wa er or
J
at least 3 hours. 2 one a a [me.
2 Drain the wa er from he flce. e surface, he

3 In a blender, gnnd he nee In 0 a


smooth paste. 3
ey do not
4 Wrap the nce paste In cheeseclo
and let i Sit until all he I qUid as
drained. A heavy weigh se on op
Serving suggestion
will help squeeze ou e excess
water. J s be ore se e eac f1a ened
ca e and s re c [ 0 a ribbon-ii e
S Roll he rice pas e In 0 small balls
p eee Dredge eac [ e sugar-sesame-
approximately 50 grams each and 2 5
cm 11 In in diame er. USing he palms peanu mix ure
of your hands, flatten each ball un II Co I he p eees and arrange on a platter.
1 cm thlC With your thumb ma e a Spfln Ie w he gra ed coconu ,
dent by pressing the cen er of each
ea e. Arrange flattened ea es s de by
!>Ide on a ba ng ray.
sapin -sapin
Layered Sticky R'ce Cake
ed ;ve e the flce e A k m E IJ • par" ularly sopin-so
ud t t Pill. which 1- d
en milky, eml tran e e e v pI onful "" d creamy d I h - I,e to
oe ,X r c;e"
d
E n h < d
the mouth. ve w en re nq nte . 5 pln- aplIl Woe Just
e 'g t as the mU III
melte 111 - as dehclou" ta r
aye r f e credm. IAII Centrdl LULon pr lVIrce hoast they make the be t . '. log On
le,ture 0 IC S sapln-saprn)" [G 1_'
,e'
corderO Ferna n
do "Nueva Ec Ja. Cook 09 In the Prr vince" In Philippme Food dL
on rfe. ]
I Ud

a x a-in square rice cake


yrelds one

Tips
3 cups I 555 g r~e Cooking
Th e soakin g process of at least 5 h .
2 cups 1480 ml~te~ _ __ Pour 4 cups coconut cream into a an importa t . ours IS
n step In achieving the right
.- 1-950 ml coconut cream for the re sults.
warm pot. Cook over low heat. stirring
4 cups ) Pay close attention to the t' .
coco bits (Iotik) (SEE PAGE 206 carefully until the oil rises and some d Imlng
solid bits remain. This is the lotikor coco nee ed for each layer to fi rm up. If don,
6 ~ups 11440 ml coconut milk properly. every layer can be separa ted.
bits. Set aside the lotik and expressed

--
(SEE PAGE 206)

2'/2 cups 1 500 g sugar _ __ 2


oil, separately, for later use.
Line the square pan with the cloth. and
When making the lotik. stir sl owly and
sparrngly so that the larger pieces rema in
whole.

32-cm 1 12-in round very fine a plastic film over it, large enough to
cheesecloth line the sides of the pan. Make sure
there are no holes. Brush the wrap with
8 x 8 x 3-tn pan coconut oil. Pour one portion of the rice
plastic wrap mixture into the pan. Steam this first
layer until set, about 5 minutes.
1 large steamer big enough to
accommodate the pan 3 Brush the top of the first layer with
coconut oil. Pour the next portion
1 cup 240 ml coconut cream for
1
over the first layer. Steam again for
topping
5 minutes. Repeat for the rest of the
portions.
Preparation
4 After the eight layer has set. pour in
Wash rice then soak in water for at the 1 cup coconut cream. Steam for
least 5 hours.
10 minutes. Remove the pan from the
2 Prepare the coconut cream and steamer and allow to cool.
coconut milk. Apportion according to 5 When the sapin-sapin has cooled
the measurements above.
sufficiently. remove it from the pan by
3 Begin cooking procedure *1. lifting the cloth, and set on a platter.
4 Remove the cloth and plastiC film
In a blender, grind the soaked rice
carefully by rolling them under the
a cup at a time with some of the
soaking water. Do th is for 11/2 sapin-sapin.
minutes. Transfer the blended rice 6 Scatter the latik decoratively on top of
to a ,large bowl. Repeat with the the sapin-sapin.
rema ining rice.
5 Serving suggestion
Add the cocon ut milk and sugar to
the blended rice and mix until the Slice into diamond cuts for individual
sugar has dissolved .
servings.
6 UStn9 a cheesecloth strain the
mixture •
Into another bowl.
1
D'de In
po e r ce mil ure into B equal
ons, abo\; 1 h cu ps each.
TUTTon
Crisp Ba nana Roils
cr ut nt ~t Ip:
The softo or c00klng plantaIn IS IOlleL wall" ce. t "fr
" fr ~ Adl 101 JI ~ qe. I~
and encased with Jackfrult and sugar d IU"lpl wr JppN. d t
caramelized on the wrapper It IS both street tood" d f ne <II"n ae ert f'>l en l'y 1Nt'I n S .Ned
with ce cream.

Yields 24 pieces

Cooking Tips
4_ri _
pe_pla n
- t-a-in_ba nana s_-'{s_
-- a_
ba...:.J_ _ __ Turron is best rolled as thick
Just before serving
thumb. as the
'12 cup /120 9 fresh or bailed jackfruit
Heat a wide skillet and pour in
{Iangka}. option~ _ _ _ _ _ __ If fresh jackfruit is not availab
oil. making sure that oil is not too sweetened Jackfruit Ie. bottled
620 x 20-cm I 8 x 8-in square spring can be subs!,
deep or the wrapper will open when Make sure to drain th ,tuted.
e syrup
roll {Iumpia} wrapper frying. Sprinkling the sugar .
while it cooks is a bett on the turron
2 cups /480 ml oil for deep- frying 2 Fry rolls over medium heat around er technlq et h
rolling the turron in sugar bef u an
3-5 minutes. turning occasionally. ore flYing.
1 cup / 20 g white sugar
When pale golden in color. sprinkle
with sugar and continue to toss to
Preparation
allow sugar to caramelize.
Peel the bananas. Slice each piece in
3 Remove turron to a tray rack to drain
ha lf lengthwise. then each half into
excess oil. Let cool , allowing some
three strips lengthwise. making sure
space between the rolls.
each piece is about lO-cm I 4-in
long.
Serving Suggestions
2 Slice jackfruit into strips.
3 Cut each spring roll wrapper into 4 Arrange the cooled turron on a plate and
sma ll square pieces. serve warm.

4 On each square of wrapper. put one Can be served "a la mode", with ice
banana strip on one edge. then 1 or cream.
2 strips of jackfruit beside it. Roll
towards the opposite side to create
a small cylinder. Seal the end with a
little paste made with equal parts of
flour and water.
pan de Sal
Salted Bread
" as nu ~ In t Ink ~ut P rt"qr' d
e s not SpJr s" - " .' " Introduced to
C the' t ce • ry, T drt en I r d bre k'. bur DOn <Ie sal • f run~ rt
elto'pendO

s 45 buns
Yr' Id

5 Knead the mixture into a smooth Tips


10 9 Instant yeast elastic dough. Dust with the reserved
2 tsp 1 - Traditional pan de sol has light-colored
flour as needed.
2tbSp 130 ml tepid water - - - breadcrumbs covering its smooth brow
crust. n
4 tsp 1100 g sugar 6 Rest the dough in a greased bowl.
cup + Cover and let rise until doubled in To reheat pon de sol. put the bread
I kg bread flour bulk (about 25-30 minutes). buns in a paper bag. sprinkle the bag with
water then warm in a preheated oven at
,1/2 cups 1360 ml warm wate_r _ _ 7 Punch dough and knead again. Form 130' C I 2S0· F.
into a rectangular sheet.
I tspl5g salt
8 Roll dough into a 2-in thick baton.
1 cup + 2 tsp_1 90 9 shortening
Cover with breadcrumbs. Rest for
, cup 1240 9 breadcrumbs about 15 minutes.
9 Using a dough cutter, cut and divide
Preparation the baton into I-in \30-g pieces.
Dissolve yeast in tepid water. 10 Place the dough, cut side up, on
Use' tsp \ 5 g of the sugar and add a baking tray. Make sure there is
to the dissolved yeast. Set remaining enough space between the pieces.
sugar aside. 11 Proof or allow the dough to rise for
Measure' cup 1 240 g of the flour. about 20 minutes.
Set aside to be used for dusting. 12 Preheat oven to 175°C \ 350°F.
4 In a bowl. combine the remaining
fiour, sugar, warm water, salt, and Cooking
shortening. Add the dissolved yeast
and mix well. Bake in a preheated oven for 15-18
minutes or until the pon de sol develop a
light brown crust.

NDA 1 Snacks 1 187


M1NATAM1S
Desserts

Filipino desserts are clearly Spanish in influence, and most


of the sweets have Spanish names.

Egg whites Nt'rt: a e ingr dient in the mortar used to


build church's and oth r ructures during th Spanish
period; th unus d '01 found th If way into kitchens,
inspiring h In n I n of man g( 01 -rich desserts and
pa tri s.

Fllipin P 01 hr o 10 al ingredients,

su h lU for cr am and milk,

and ca 1 nu a Iman Sam im • th Spanish

ng d. ",.,.". bl n a IS all d tibok-


-) In P mpanga b aus It qui rs when

rno n 0 1 hart baing. On the


d or at ar obviously
OIh n
fa • u h banan urron.
Brazo de Mercedes
Ro/,ec ~ ~erl ng ue with Crea my Filii rq
I'
e ~r 01 ed mer ngl e Wit c1 rre
T/l'_ er c rec
n elegant d _ ert

Serves 6 to 8

7 Meanwhile, dust a clean cloth Tips


lf4 cup 1 60 g butter measuring approximately 30 x 30 The meringue is made .
ast uSing a baSIC
cm I 12 x 12 in with ha lf of the P ry procedure. Sugar is add d '
1 cup 1120 g flour · e While
powdered sugar. Set aside. bea t Ing egg whites stabil' .
, IZlng them into
a creamy foam .
8 eggs S Grate the lemon rind to yield '12 tsp I When beating the egg wh'tI es. make
lf4 tsp 11 g cream of tartar 2 g zest Set aside. sure the bowl is squeaky clean , f ree of
any fat or oil, which prevent egg Whites
'/2 cup 1100 g sugar
Cooking from becoming fluffy and aerated,
1/2 cup 1 60 g powdered sugar
Bake the meri ngue in the preheated ,It is possible to roll the meringue aft u
it IS baked, when the filling is already
1 lemon oven for 25 to 30 minutes or until
piped in.
'/2 can (225 mil I 115 ml conden sed se .
milk 2 Invert baked meringue on the cloth
lf4 tsp I 1 ml vani l a essence dusted w ith powdered sugar.

3 Roll up the meringue into a cylinder.


Preparation Set aSide.
Preheat the oven to 130'C I 250 F. 4 In a double bolier, combine the egg
yolks, condensed mli~ lemon zest,
2 Grease, line, and grease again a 23.5
x 33.5 cm I 9 x 13 in pan. Dust with and anilla essence Over med ium
flour making sure the whole surface heat stir continuousl { until the
is covered. Discard extra flour. mixture thickens and is of piping
consis ency.
3 Separate the eggs.
5 Unrol' he meringue
4 Beat the egg whites with the cream
of tartar unti l fine bubbles form. 6 With a pastr{ bag fitted With a plain,
round piplPg tube 2.5 cm I 1-1n in
5 Add the sugar gradually to the egg
diameter, pipe the filling along center
whites until the resulting meringue
of the meringue. Roll the meringue.
is stiff but not dry.
6 Spread the menngue on the prepared Serving suggestion
pan making sure the ends slightly
overlap he edges of he pan because Dus the top ilghtly with he remaining
he meringue will shnnk a Ii tie powdered sugar. Slice crosswise into l-cm
during he coofing. Bake (see cooking I "4-1n thic pieces.
procedure /I 1 nex column).
13 uko-Pandan Gelatin
coco nut-Pandan Gel atin
YOurg
r ere fT es

Serves 6

Cooking
uko) or substitute Tips
coconu ts (b . . BOil pondon leaves in th e coconut
2young 00 ml young coconut JUice Vanill a ice cream, Or better yet the
prepared 7 j uice for about 10 minutes or until rrch ice cream called montecod~
InpacKS _ _ pandon flavor has been extracted. f h· , are
re res In9 variations on the predictable
.-:-- 'ne (pandan) 'eaves Remove leaves. (If using pandan mocopuno ice cream.
5fresh scretWeP~ tsp 1 2 ml pandan
(orsubstltu flavorr ng , mix this wi th the coconut Use bi g martini glasses for attractive
~a~orlng) juice,) individu al servi ngs.

2pacKs 175 glpack unflavored or 2 Add e gree n powdered gelatin


sweetened green powdered gelatin
to e coco u ju'ce mix ure and
~;s 1500 g coconut sport dlssol e.
(macapuno) ce c ear!'
(or 250 9 wh pped crea rr)
3

Preparation
Crack open he yOJ 9 coconu s, If
uSing. Reserve e cocon JU ce e coconut
rapp'o1 l'1a tely J c ps 1 720 mI).
Scrape mea (rom . e coco ,uts I
a spoon ' I) e d 1 c I 4 I S r ps
Se' as de. 0 5Ca' d coconu sells.
Canonigo
Floating Meringue
. h t towering meringue s beautiful and almost weightless when
d canon go. w t i S . . I f
The carame -coate d tard sauce •• t is the Span.sh eqUlva ent 0 the French lie
d b caramel an CUS
cut R ch fla ore . Y . d f I.ght meringue floating In a vanilla custard sea.
Rattan,t - ( f1oat'ng .sland I. a moun 0

Serves 6

Cooking Tips
caramel and Meringue
In the preheated oven, bake the If the caramel has harden-d '
11k cups I 350 g white sugar
meringue in a bain-marie for 30 to aft er the meringue has ".' .nthe .....
""'"··
""en lranlfel!!d
8 egg whites 45 minutes, or until golden. Remove onto the serving platter add
, lOme hot
from the oven. water 10 the bowl, arOund III cup lu
cool: then drizzle the syrup !Nt;
2 Allow the meringue to cool for 15 to meringue. the
20 minutes, then invert onto a serving The meringue can also be . .
pIatm'.1etting the caramdimJ sugar
syrup coat the menngue.
smatlerstainlas stu! bowls
setlrings.
far":
Leche Flan
Milk custard
nation sa sta 'dare des>ert ,n Filipino homes and re' tauran t, It b
me coramf'I va .., . can e heavy
Th'S, , -e d' " on whether whole egg' "'ere u,ed, or yolks alone, or If condensed 'Ik
ht depen In" , m, was
or Ilg, tne lighter milk
chosen over

Serves 8

Cooking
Tips
1fz CUP 1100 g white sugar
Place the covered flan in a pot and Using egg whites makes leche flon lighter
6 eggs add water till it reaches half-way up while using only yolks makes the flan a~
the sides of the flan tin (boin-morie), rich as tocino del cielo, another classic
~can 1300 ml condensed milk
or cook in a steamer. Cook for 1 hour dessert. Doyop zest added to the custard
1can 370 ml evaporated milk
1 until flan is firm . mixture gives it a pleasant citrus aroma.
Flans are traditionally made in a
lime (do yap) for garnish 2 Cool before removing from the /lonero, an oval tin pan, but any shape
container. pan can be used. It's handy to make flan
Preparation in individual servings.
3 Run a knife or metal spatula around
Leche flan topping on halo-halo (PAGE
In a preheated pan, caramelize the the flan. Turn it upside down on to a
173) makes it "espesyal".
sugar over medium heat. Pour into a serving platter.
9-in flonera (oval tin pan) or small
round molds. Set aside to cool. Serving suggestion
2 In a bowl, beat eggs. Add condensed Serve chilled. Garnish with sliced doyop.
milk and evaporated milk until well
blended. Using a fine strainer or
cheesecloth, strain the mixture and
pour into the caramelized container.
Cover tightly with foil.
3 Slice lime thinly crosswise.
Maja Blanca
White Coconut Custa rd
• "a rotonu' (Jst rd. A, her ve ~I )1 m de
I terallv 'whlte IadY
Ma a hfanc • I .ernels and c e"m-style corn
A simpler ve s.or skips the corn

Serves 20 (2 x 2- in se rv ing pieces]

2 Simmer over low fire for about 15 Tip


Juice from 1 young coconut (bukoj (SEE minutes, stirring constantly and When making t he lafk
. I • stir slowl
PAGE 206) scraping the bottom to avoid burning spanngly so that larg . V and
remain. er pieces of Curd
1 can 1425 g cream -style corn the mixture.

1 can 1 425 g corn kernels 3 When the mixture thickens, remove


casserole from heat.
1 cup 1 240 ml coconut cream (SEE PAGE
4 Pour into a glass or stoneware
206)
serving dish (approximately 20 x 26
2 cups 1 480 ml coconut milk (SEE PAGE
x 5 cm I 8 x 10 x 2 in) . Allow to cool
206) and set.
'/2 cup 1120 g powdered mil k
5 Heat the thick coconut cream over
3/4 cup /150 g sugar med ium heat. When it starts to boil,
lower the heat and continue cooking
112 cup I 65 g cornstarch
for about 30 minutes. The milk
'/2 cup I 120 ml water shou ld separate into oil and solid
curd. Remove the curd bits {lotikJ.
Preparation
Serving suggestion
If using young coconut, crack open
and reserve the juice (about 350 Sprinkle the curd bits over the maja
mil. blanca . Cut into 5 )( 5-cm I 2 x 2-in serving
pieces.
2 Use '/2 can cream-style corn.
For ind i idua l serving, place one piece on
3 Use '/2 can whole corn kernels.
a sma ll plate and garnish with the curd
4 If using mature coconuts. extract bits and about 1 tbsp of the rema ining
coconut cream and milk. whole kerne l corn.

Cooking
1 !n. a large casserole, put the coconut
JUice, coconut milk, powdered milk
suga r, cornstarch, water, cream-style•
corn, and corn kernels. Bring to a boil
then lower heat
Sans Rival
va l .vas oelng m de dur nq t~e "lOs with almond, pili Or caShew d
~ • San RI ,ependlng
It <~e", t · e 'ce nd like y, the nut s "~I lbl I v. [Felice Sta. Mana The G
.

e baker reler ' . Ollernor_

r,:ne'al,~/tchenl
L'
rd to Nora
rQ
Daza In A Culinary LIte, a cookbo()k by the L'Ecole du Cordon Bleu publish ed
AccO I I. des Sars Rival
n 1895 Inc j
3-in serving pieces)
Serves 8 (2 x

Cooking
1 3/, cups I 395 9 butter Tips
Bake the trays of egg white mixture
---- '"~~3~6~0.2~c~as~h~e~w-n-u-ts---------
To make 18 layers as in the Sans Rival
2 cUEs until lightly brown. This will take In the photograph. multiply the recipe by
about 25 to 30 minutes. three.
11 eggs
Store San, Rival in the freezer. Thaw
2 When each meringue is done, remove
1 cup I 200 g sugar slightly before cutting, so that the
immediately from the tray. Coolon
meringue layers do not crack. The butter
1/2 tsp I 3 ml vanilla wire racks.
cream can be fortified with flavors such
1/3 cup I 70 g sugar 3 Meanwhi le, in a pot, dissolve '13 cup as coffee.
I 70 g sugar in 1/. cup water and When cooking the sugar, clean the
coo k until a threadl ike consistency sides of the pan with a wet brush to
Preparation make sure that all the sugar grains are
is achieved. Make sure the sides of
Preheat the oven to 180' C I 350· F. removed.
the pot are clean and free from any
2 Soften 1/. cup butter for greasing. sugar to aVOid crystall ization.
Cut the rema ining 1"2 cups Into
4 Whil e the sugar is cooking, beat the
cubes at room temperature. Set the
rema ining 3 eggs until frothy.
butter cubes aside.
5 When the sugar is done, pour
3 With the softened butter, grease
gradua lly into the eggs and beat
three 23.5 x 33.5-cm I 9 x 13-in
until smooth.
baking trays. Line the trays with wax
paper. Grease and then flour the 6 Add the butter cubes and beat until
paper. creamy and smooth.
4 Divide the cashews into two portions. 7 Divide the butter cream mixture into
Chop half fine ly. Chop the other ha lf 6 equa l portions.
coarse ly. Divide the coarse ly chopped
cashews Into 6 portions. Serving Suggestion
5 Separate the yolks and wh ites of 8 . .In 2 to make a
Cut each meringue
eggs. Use only the whites. Reserve tota l of 6 meringue wafers.
the yolks for another recipe such as . on a
bUko fru it salad. 2 Place 1 layer of meringue . f
latter Spread with one portlo n ' °h
6 P . d sprinkle WI t
Beat egg wh ites until fine bubbles the butter cream an d
form. Add 1 cup I 200 g sugar · of the coarsely choppe
1 po rt Ion . h th next 4
gradually. Beat until stiff Fold in the cashew nuts. Do this Wit e
fne y chopped nuts. Add the vanilla . meringue wafers.
7 then cover
0" de he egg ",h,te mixture among 3 PI ace the last.,layerbutter cream,
e hree tra (So. Spread the mixture
r I with the rem~'nlng rinkle the top
Including the Sides. Sp Iy chopped
With the rest of the coarse
cashew nuts.
to 9 ad a omo gra and ma
APPEND1X
sundries, Sauces, Condiments and Relishes
Atchara
the wor j pre efVe f d t I' r Ine 3r P rkllnq. In A',d. Cures
eOP e all DVe J YVregar, ' r eot b
~ ac d ,S of 'e r p P d t bl
D j n Ickle or r.IL "ld e e~e a e,. al pre e'<ed '" and
Acna q ~ 9 Peorut v,"eqar ,alt an pice It I 1 Prlf11 en Jf11 for this [foo('J art. b.cause
~avored bWitt-f,,'"
c , r~s lend '~~ms Ive, t') CdfV'
tex u '0
to W r_. tar,. eaves. word,. and even
<: "
he sol f Urren and wo men mpa hut' d JO'. crpe .ernandez. A Town Bejewelled
Igure< 0 d Art" in TIKlm.]
Ph pp,ne Foo

2 Blanch the rest of the vegetables


Papaya Atchara separately in the pickling solution
3
Peel the carrot and cut into julienne
Pickled Papaya and set aside. stri ps. Set aside.
4 Pee l the shallots. Set aside.
200 g green papaya
Storage and Serving suggestion
1-t~sP 120 g rock salt Arrange grated papaya and the blanched
5 Slice the red and green bell peppers
in half. Seed and cut into julienne
10 ~;;;sllO gJjarlic vegetables in a sterilized bottle and pour in strips.
the pickling solution. Seal bottle and store in
1~humb-sized pci.20 9 glng~ chiller. Cure for 5- 7 days before usi ng.
6 Scoop out the seeds from the core
of the bitter gourd and discard. Slice
1 medium I 20 9 carrot Serve the papaya atchara as a relish, not bitter gourd crosswise into '/2 cm i'/8
--- in pieces.
61 20 g shallots side dish, to grilled or fried dishes such
as pinaputok no isdo (PAGE 131), beef tapa
1 small 120 g red ~II pepper (PAGE 109), crispy pata (PAGE 105) or lechon Cooking

1 small 120 g green bell pepper kawoli (PAGE 109). Boil vinegar and white sugar in a
heavy sau cepan until sugar dissolves.
Pickling solution Set asi de this pickling solution and
Ubod Atchara let cool.
2 cups 1500 ml vinegar P,C led Coconut Pitt]
2 In a pot, boil the water with the salt.
1 cup I 220 g white sugar 4 cups 11000 rr water Blan ch coconut pith, bitter gourd,
red and green bell peppers, and
750 g coconut pith tubod)
Preparation carrots. Strain.
Pare off papaya rind. Grate papaya. 1f21 75 9 carrots 3 Pour pickling solution into a clean and
5110 q shallots (slbuyasTagalog) sterr'1 Ize
' d J' ar. Arrange vegetables.
2 Combine salt and grated papaya in a
bowl and let stand for about 1 hour. Add the black peppercorns. Seal and
'12 I 30 9 red bell pepper 4
store in a cool dry place.
3 Peel the garlic cloves.
'12 I 30 9 green bell pepper Cu re f or 5- 7 days before using.
5
4 Peel the ginger and cut into strips.
't. I 100 9 bitter gourd (ampaloya)
5 Peel the carrot and cut into strips.
6
2 cups I 500 ml sugarcane vinegar
Peel the shallots.
7 '12 cup 1100 g sugar Tips the vegetables thin ly and
Cut the red and green bell peppers Cutting . strips allowS
into strips. 1 cups I 240 ml water . I into Julienne
uniform Y the strips even ly.
8 vinegar to bathe . In flavor the
When the papaya is ready. squeeze 1 tsp I 5 9 salt Ubod atchara Improves
out all the liquid and set papaya . g period.
1f2 tsp I 2 5 g black peppercorns longer the CUrln
aSide. Discard the liquid.

COOking Preparation
1 Place the water in a bowl.
Cumbme the "negar and sugar in a
he- . . 'ulienne strips.
dry saucepan and Ie bOIl. Remove 2 Cut coconut .plt~ Into Jbowl of wate r
~ '" (O"t,nue bOil n9 for another Place the stnps In th e
L m n" ~ or until the sugar has to prevent discoloration.
COmp ete y d SSO ltd. let cool.
Ways with Co 0

Coconut cream (kakang gatii)


Mature coconut (magulang)
Kokong gota is the first extraction of
Crack open the mature coconut. Discard
the grated meat of the mature coconut
the liquid
Grate the meat with a coconut grater: {myog}.
take one half of the shell and grate using Place the grated meat in a cheesecloth
a semi-circular motion to the right or left. or bowl and squeeze to extract coconut
Be careful not to scrape the inner part of cream Strain with a fine mesh strainer.
the shell, to keep the meat white. One whole coconut yields about 4 cups I
290 g of grated coconut. Extracted cream
Young coconut (buko) from an average-size coconut IS 112 cup I
Coconut juice and strips are obtained 120 mi. Alternatives to fresh coconut milk
from young coconut {buko}. and cream
Crack the coconut, and have a bowl Coconut milk (gaM) Coconut cream and coconut milk are
ready to catch the juice. Gala IS the second extraction of the grated available in cans of either 1 cup to 15
With a coconut scraper, scrape the soft meat of the mature coconut. cups I 237 ml or 375 ml. Canned coconut
meat into long strands. Put cream-extracted coconut meat cream can be diluted to make coconut
A spoon can also be used to scrape the In a bowl, add 1 cup I 240 ml water to milk by adding a half can of water.
meat, although the pieces will be bigger produce an equal amount of milk. If no Young coconut juice IS available in cans
and irregular. cream has been extrac ed, add l 1/l cup I or tetrapaks. Young coconut stnps are

360 ml water to extract an equal amount available in cans.


Powdered coconut comes in 17.6 01
of coconut mi k
I 50 g packs. To make coconut cream,
O"e medium-sized coconut Yields '/2
dilute powder in 11, cup I 60 ml water. T~
cup coconut cream wi thout water being
'l owder In 1 ,
make coconut milk, dI ute p
added. Adding 1 cup Nater yields 1 cup
coconut mLk. cups I 300 ml water
flavor and Color

Tamarind extract Annatto (Achuete) oil


Shrimp stock
1/2 cup 1120 ml hot water 1 cup 1 240 ml vegetable oil
one part shrimp heads and shell
100 g green tamarind fruit 1f2 cup 1 85 g annatto (ochuete) seeds trimmings

enough water to cover


Place the hot wat er in a small pot. Hea t a pan over medium heat. Add
Add the youn g tam arin d. oil. Add th e an natto seeds. Stir
Boil the shrimp heads and shell
constantly until th e oil picks up the
2 Mash the tam arind. trimmings then reduce to simmer for
color of th e seeds. Turn off the heat
15-20 minutes.
3 Strain to yield 4 tbsp 1 60 ml of and let the mixt ure cool down.
tamarind extract. 2 Blend in a food processor and strain,
2 Stra in and discard the seeds.
or crush through a strainer.
4 Discard the solids.
3 Store ch il ed. 3 Discard the solids.

Tips
Another practice is to first process the
sh rimp parts in a blender without water
for one minute, and with the water for
another minute before cooking and
..
straining. Another trad itional practice IS
to pound the uncooked shnmp parts In
a mortar and pestle before cooking. but
this tends to leaye some jUice behind.
These two processes also leaye a fishy
smell on the kitchen equipment. .
One technique to remove the fishy
mell IS to clean the blender by running
S
the machine WI.th instant coffee and
wa ter for a few minutes.
· g SaUces
Dippln
and
condiments
Bagoong lsda Bagoong Alamang GUisado
'n Filipino cooking are Sauteed Shrimp Paste
b 'c sauces I Sauteed Fish Paste
The aSI .). gar (sukaJ and soy
(patlS vine 4 cloves \ 20 9 garlic
fish sauce ' d by themselves 2 cloves \10 9 9ar_'i_c_ __
oJ These are use
sauce (toy . mple' using 1 \ 80 9 white onion
or in combination, for exa .' . 1/2 \ 40 g white 0:...n_i_o_n_ _ _ __
base combine with either 4 I 320 9 tomatoes
vinegar as t he , . 1 \ 40 9 tomato
with soy sauce. Singly or
fish sauce or 5 \ 150 9 ca/amonsi, or lime or lemon 120 9 pork with fat
· d the sauces are used to flavor ---
com bine , 1'/2 cups \ 600 9 fermented shrimp
grilled fish or roasted meat. Peeled and 3 tbsp I 45 ml oil
paste (bagoong a/among)
pounded garlic, chopped onions or shallots 3 1209 blrd's eye chiles (slling
/obuyO). opt oral
3 tbsp \ 45 ml oil
are also mixed into vinegar.
Condiments also contribute to the 2 cups 440 ml fermented fish paste 3 \ 20 9 blfd's eye chilies (si/ing
flavoring of food. Some of these are (bagoong isda or bogoong aa/ayon) /abuyo), optional
shrimp paste (bagoong a/among) and fish 1 tsp I 5 g white sugar, optional
paste (bogoong). Preparation
Fruits such as tomatoes, mangoes, Crush and peel garl ic. Preparation
c%monsi and komlOs are mixed with Crush and peel garlic.
2 Peel and chop onion.
condiments, sauces and salt.
3 Wash and chop tomato. 2 Peel and chop onion.
Bird's eye chili (siting /obuyo) is added
4 Extract juice from the lime or lemon 3 Wash and chop tomatoes.
whole to infuse bottled vinegar. The chill
may be chopped to make the vinegar dip or 5 ca/amansl. 4 Slice pork into small cubes.
hotter. 5 Wash fermented shrimp paste to
The green finger pepper is not used raw, Cooking remove impurities.
but is fished out of sinigong or poksiw, Hea a pan and pour in oil.
chopped in a sauce plate and mixed with Cooking
2 Saute garlic. onion and tomatoes over
fish sauce. medium heat. Add chilies, if deSired. Heat a pan and pour in oil.
. nd tomatoes
5inomak is nlpa palm vinegar With Add he fermented fish paste and 2 Saute garliC. onion. ~ Add
ginger, garlic, peppercorns, blue ginger simmer for about 5 minutes. over medium heat. until mushy
(Iangkawas) and chilies. 3 Jus before serving. add juice from chilies, if desired.
. f untl go deO
hme, lemon or c%~~mans; to sauteed 3 Add the por and stIr- ry str
mixture. Stir. Add the fermented shnmp paste.
t 5 m nutes.
and simmer for abO u
4 If needed. tone do.....n sa
ness '"
sugar.
pul ot at Patis Calamansi Dipping Sauce
Fish Sauce Dressl ng
Ina sal Dipping Sauce
Honeyed
2to 3 lemons or limes (dayap) 4 tbsp I 60 ml fish sauce (patisr
3 c%~~mans;
~ 60 ml fish sauce (patis) 4 tbsp 60 ml fresh ca/amansi juice
1

1 small onion
~p 1120 ml honey (pu/at) 1 to 2 chilies (optional)
2 tbsp 1 30 ml s;namak' vinegar
.
1f2 tsp 12 9 ground white pepper
Substitute soy sauce (to yo) for a 1/2 cup 1120 ml soy sauce

Preparation different kind of c%m onsi dipping 2-~ bird's eye chilies (s;!ing fabuyo)
sauce. optional '
Wash the lemons or limes. Peel thinly
to obtain 1 tbsp 115 9 lime or lemon Preparation
zest. Cut the lemons or limes and • Sinamok is a dipping sauce in the lIonggo
region that contains n;pa palm vinegar
squeeze out jUice to obtain 1f2 cup I In a sma'i dipping container, mix all
he ingredients together. For a hotter to which chili, garlic, ginger, and
120 ml.
dip, cut tne chili. g%ngo/ (blue ginger or fangkawas)
Combine the lime or lemon juice, fish have been added. Substitute other
sauce, and honey. Add zest of I me or native vinegars.
lemon. Season with pepper.
Preparation
Serving suggestion
Extract c%mans; juice to yield 2
Chill before serving. tbsp 1 30 ml ca/omons; juice.
2 Chop the onion.
3 Mix together all ingredients.
Sweet and Sour Vinaigrette Coconut Vinaigrette Liver Sauce for L
Makes 4'12 cups echon
Tagalog Dressing
1 cup I 240 ml vinegar (cane, palm or
1/2 cup I 120 ml coconut cream 250 g pork liver
(SEE PAGE 206)
white) 1/2 cup 1 120 ml vinegar
1 em I 2 g ginger
1 cup I 200 g white sugar 2 cloves 1 10 g garlic
1 green finger chili
1 tsp I 5 g sa It 1 1 40 g small onion
tsp I 2 g black peppercorns 3 tbsp I 45 ml cane vinegar
'2 2 tbsp 1 30 ml oil
salt and pepper to taste
Preparation 4 cups 11 liter chicken stock
Preparation 1 tbsp 1 15 ml soy sauce
Combine vinegar, sugar, and salt.
If using mature coconut, extract 5 tbsp 1 60 g brown sugar
2 Crack the peppercorns and add to coconut cream
mixture. Stir well. 1 tbsp 115 g salt
2 Pee ginger and mince.
1 tsp 1 2 g ground pepper
Serving suggestion 3 5 Ice green finger ch ili, seed and
deve ln, and chop. 1 bay leaf
Chill before serving.
II? cup 1 50 g breadcrumbs
Assembly
1 Combine coconut cream, ginger, Preparation
green finger ch il i, and vinegar in a 1 Slice liver into 'l3-in fillets.
bowl. Stir wei. 2 Briefly broil the liver, then pass the
2 liver through a food processor while
Season with salt and pepper. Stir
pouring in the vinegar in a slow,
wei!. Taste and adjust seasoning. Stir steady stream.
again.
3 Crush, peel and mince the garlic
4 Peel the onion and chop.

Cooking
1 In a preheated pan, add the oil and
saute the garlic and Onion for 2-3
minutes.
2 Add the processed liver, stock. SOt
sauce, sugar, salt, pepper, and bay lea.
3 8nng mixture to a boil, then fredU~~
heat and aI/ow 10 simmer or

Add the breadcru(!'bS, adJUst


4
seasoning, ard stir until the sauct
th ickens.
Berenjena I Eggplant Sauce Relleno Tomato Sauce
poch ero Tomato Sauce
2 1200 g eggplants 1-~oves I 5 9 garlic
I small I 50 gonion -
2 cloves \ 109 garlic 1 small \ 60 gonion
2c1oveslloggarliC
2 tbsp vinegar ~ 200 9 tomatoes
101500 9 tom!.t=o:-
es=--_ _- - - -
2tsp\10gsalt 1 tbsp \ 30 ml oil
4 tbsp 160 ml o~liv:.:e~o~il-----
1 tsp 13 g pepper 2 tbsp \ 30 9 tomato paste
Ibayl~
Preparation and Cooking 3 cups 1750 ml fish stock
I sprig p~a:.::rs:::.
'e~y_ - - - - - - ----
Broil the eggplan ts. Peel and discard 'I, cup \ 60 g green peas
-
'12 cup 1120 ml broth

salt
2
skins.
Crush, peel and mi nce th e garlic.
salt and pepper, to taste

pepper Preparation
3 Mash broiled eggpla nts an d add
Crush, peel and mince garlic.
Preparation minced garlic and vineg ar.
2 Peel and chop the onion.
Peel the onion and mince. 4 Add salt and pe pper. Ta ste an d adjust
seasoning. 3 Peel and chop the tomatoes.
Crush, peel and mince the garlic.
Blanch tomatoes first for 30 seconds. Cooking
Peel, seed, and chop. Tomato, Green Mango, Add oil to a preheated pan and saute
Shrimp Paste Salsa garlic, onion and tomatoes.
Cooking
2 Add the tomato paste and cook for
1 In a preheated pan, add the olive oil, 2-3 minutes.
3 tomatoes
saute onions and garlic, then add
Add the 3 cups reserved fish stock.
tomatoes. Add bay leaf and sprig of 1 green mango 3
parsley and broth. Cover and simm er
--- Season to taste with salt and pepper,
2 tbsp sauteed shrimp paste and simmer for about 10 minutes.
10 minutes.
(or substitute fish paste or fish sauce) Add the peas, and remove from the
2 Discard bay leaf and parsley sprig. 4
heat.
Add salt and pepper. Adjust
Preparation
seasoning. Chop th e tom atoes.
2 Pare the green mango. Slice len gth-
wise along the seed to separate th e
two cheeks. Chop into small pieces.
3 Combine the chopped tomatoes and
chopped mangoes with the shrimp
paste.
Lumpia and Noo

Lumpia Sauce
Lumpia Wrapper
3/. cup 1 150 g white sugar
3/. cup 190 gall purpose flour
1 3/. cups 1 420 ml water
2 tbsp 115 g co:.-r_n::..-
st.:...
ar-c-h - - - -
2 tbsp 130 ml soy sauce
'/. tsp 11 g salt
2 tbsp 1 16 g cornstarch
1 egg
1 tbsp 1 15 ml water
'/2 tbsp 1 8 g oil
~---------
1'/' cups 1 300 ml water In a saucepan . caramelize sugar until
slightly browned. Add water and soy
Preparation
sauce and let boi l.
Sift flour. cornstarch. and salt In a
2 Dissolve cornstarch in the water
bowl.
a~d .gradually add to the saucepan
2 Add egg. oil. and water and mix well stirring continuously. Simmer until
until batter is smooth. Strain. the mixture thickens.

Cooking
1 In a nonstick. 25 cm 110 in pan over
moderate heat. pour in '/. cup 1 60
ml of batter and tilt pan in a circular
motion to cover surface completely.
Cook until set. Carefully remove
wrapper to a plate.
2 Repeat above procedure with
remaining batter. Noodl ~ and Wrapper~
1 medium-sized egg noodle
2 fine egg noodle for mami
3 thick egg noodle (miki)
4 dry wheat flour (canton) noodle
5 lumpio wrapper
6 dry mung bean vermicelli
(sotunghon). also called cellophane
or glass noodl~
7
n
dry nce noodles (blho n or bllO )
8 hydrated net noodles
9 fIne wheat noodl~ (mls wa or
mlsuo)
10 onton (molo) rappcr
Square cut; short rib, roast ; shoulder clod,
roast. tird, chuck rib, bri sket braise , sl'mmer b 'I
• 01, cooked in I' ,
Iquld
Can be made in to cubes, stew, ground; te nder paypay
chuck, bbq steak braise, cooked in liquid

Blade clod kalitiron


braise , cookod ' I' ,
' I n Iquld
kenchi
Shin front, cross cut foreshank,bone ma rrow braise, Simmer, broth and
bulalo soup stock
short ribs; short ribs trimmed; rib roast / back Tagiliran,ribs
braise, broil, grill
ribs kadero

ribs
rib eye steaks; prime rib steaks; standing rib- roast, broil, panbroil, panfry
roast; rib eye roast (tied)

roast

spare rib braise, broil


brisket; brisket, boneless, deckle-off; plate,
short plate pun to y pecha
braise, cooked in liquid (ni/aga), pot
roast, panbroil, panfry
plate, skirt steak, outer; plate, skirt steak, inner roast

bone-in or boneless for stews roast

Short loin, full loin, sirloin butt saute, panfry, broil, panbroil

Tenderloin soIomilyo gri ll, roast, broil, panfry

t-bone steak;porter house steak(tender loin saute, panfry, panbroil, roast


attached);strip loin(bone less)

sirloin steak, roast beef tied broil, panbroil, panfry


tapad~ra
Rump
braise, saute, grill, panfry
flank steak comta
flank steak bra ise, saute, cooked in liquid, simmer

boneless shank-off. rump shank-off;knuclde


braise, cooked in liquid
~e round, top round
panfry, panbroi l, cooked in liquid
bottom round, breakfast steak, minute steak

age of an mal, Its fat cooking method s (braiSi ng. simmering,


he ;; Imal' . .. stewing, etc.) And th ose cuts haviOg
• ff~ ' . 5 actl l ies can al
fa " O',er-a na ura tenderness of higher fa content in the fo rm of ma rbling
s s the re (fat found within the muscl e or mea t)
c's of ason VI less ender
I" a' co
. ' 1 ~eav m ng fro older a'w'1als are more en der and thus are prepared
art SUa eJt' sed "luscles ( leg. nee ) using dry heat coo Ing methods such as
Y pr pared us g mo 5t ea lOas '1g. brol ng , grilling, rylng.

PPE 01 Ill'>
Basic Butchery lnformation
pork
neck bones, mask, ears
rnaskara, tenga, batok
braise, Simmer, panf .
e.g. sisig cris ry, saute
, py ufo, toklNot boboy
pata (pata front) brais .
e, Simmer, cooked in Ii .
pata back (pata hind) e.g. crispy pata qUid
paksiw no pato
nifoga
picnic shoulder, Boston butt I kasirn
roast, braise, broil , cook-d 'In I'IqUid
.
shoulder butt paypay c
g
e· ·adobo, sinigong, menudo,opritodo
short shank, rib shoulder, pork steak,
toem a '
rolled boneless picnic shoulder

liempo saute, panfry, simmer, grill


spare ribs tadyang adobo, sinigong, inihow, fechon kowofi

roast , broil, fry


par lOin (cen er loin) tagtllfan, pork loin
e.g. canadian style bacon
panfry, broil , roast, braise,
par chop-bu erfl cuts, boneless kost,lIas, pork chop
cook in liquid
panfry, broil, roast, braise,
lomo
cook in liquid

nbS,rlb c op panfry, broil, roast, braise,


nbs cook in liquid
Ie chops,c Ie s
roast, braise, panfry, broil
am , short shan ,boneless a roll,ha
roast, shan less ha

simmer, cured, roast,cook in liquid


para back (whold
hind foot,ham oc , nuc les, ro ers e.g. sinigang, adobe, paksiw,
chops)
crispy pata
Chicken Preparatio
the location of its j oints makes the
'ng the anatomy of the chicken and
Understan dl
cutting process easier.

Cutting a chicken into quarters and


eighths
Step 1
The chicken should not have giblets in its
cavity. Wash the ch icken well.


Step 2 Step 3 Step 4
Locate the backbone and cut alongside. Split Cut the other side of the backbone and Cut through the white cartilage between the
the chicken. remove. wings. Split the chicken.

Step 5
Step 6 Step 7
Bend the chicken In half to reveal the keel
Remove the membrane and pull out the keel Split the chicken completely in half. Cut
bone.
bone. through the wishbone and skin.

Step 9 Step 10 d tnlcken shaulj loOk


Place the chicken halves skiP side up Cut the ThiS IS what a qUJrtere
leg and thigh towards the brea~t and wing. I J:e.
Steps 12 & 13
Step 11 drumstlc . k portion of the leg from the Cut the wing from breast at th '.
. wing tips. e JOint. Cut the
Cut eac h .' L cate the fat line between
t the JOint. a ..
thigh a hi h to find the JOint.
the leg and t 9

Step 14
This is what a chicken cut into eighth h
look like. s s auld

Deboning a whole chicken

Place the chicken on its back and from the 2 Detach the breast meat from the bone
open cavity, ease a small, thin paring knife and continue to work on the leg joints,
between the flesh and bone structure. turning the bird around as you proceed.

Final product The bones can be used to


7
make chicken broth.

~par,;!e the I~ from the bone structure 4 Separate wmgs from the bone structure,
and C\; '''e m 0"« at the JOints- Detach leg cutt'ng at the jOIPts, but lea~ing bones
bones :rom th e esh up to the base and cut.
Intac

at t"e base
bone p to e 6 clasp menec bOne •
',..... ct:Jrt
out tilt w"O e be ne s

219
Milkfish Prepa n
For various milkfish (bangus) recipes

Deboning milkfish for re/lenong


Different sizes of milkfi h
bang us s (banguS)

600-700 g is the recommended


for dishes where only the b II Weight
( pa kSI.W no Bongus PAGE 120e y IS .used
.'
PAGE 63) Or 51nl90n9

At this weight. the belly fat h


'd I . as the
I ea thickness and consistency Wh
b II . . en the
e y IS cut out. ' the rest of the fiISh meat
can be made Into fish fillets.
With the side of a kitchen knife, B Break the spine at the back of the
A neck. 2
gently pound the fish to loosen the
meat from the skin. 500 9 is the recommended weight for
rellenong bangus on page 135. At this
Size, the rellenong bangus slice is visuall
attractive on th e plate. Y

3
200 9 is the recommended weight for
individual servings. (Doing no Bongus PAGE
106) At this si ze, it is still possible to de-
bone the fish.

4
Butterly cut (Doing no Bongus PAGE 106) I
C Insert the handle of a tab lespoon D Break the bone at the tail end and its raw state.
through the neck and carefully pull out the bone and meat. Set fish
loosen the meat from the skin, sk ins and meat aside .
push ing toward the tail.

Butterfly cut (doing)


Start the cut at the base near the
tail.

Slip the knife through the back side


cutting through just to the edge of
the other s d C
head. I e. ut all the way to the

Spread the two sides of the fish flat.

Butterfly cut (domg!. rrannatrd stag


Glossary
also mOIl/OC, yuco; a Ii.lrgt' squash
achiote, the musky- tuber with a CriSp, white flesh
flavored, red-orange colored k tomatoes
and tough brow n skin; also
seed of the annatto tree; used to
komoteng kohoy bilimbi , a green a 'd'
color or as spice; also otsuete
porridge made from used to SOur d' h CI IC frUit
IS es
cooking fowl, meat, or
glutinous rice cooked with cocoa
vegetables by braising in water spinach I
powder or chocolate and sugar, swamp cabbage ' a so
vinegar, garlic, peppercorns, salt,
and topped with milk; considered
and sometimes bay leaves to cooked rice
both breakfast and snack fare. Also
which may be added soy sauce,
annatto water, or coconut milk champurrado. Kd
seeds of the sugar palm
pork cracklings; also a soft brown rice cake
blue crab found in
Philippine seas; lIonggo kosog or chicharran,sitsaran made with lye water; also
Visayan mosog
cuChtnta
(Spanish) sausage
Malabar nightshade, or vine with a sharp flavor residuum of coconut milk
spinach; a leafy vegetable with after extracting oil by b01'I''"g; SWeet
roasted suckling pig, ,
red stalks preparation made from CO" '
"onut milk
usually less than four weeks old
used as a sauce for sumon and other
bitter gourd or bitter
daing. general term for dried fish nce cakes
melon
gabi. taro, a starchy. potato-like lechon. spit-roasted pig, often
pickle mix of fruits (like
tuber stuffed with lemongrass or tamarind
papaya) or vegetables; also
leaves or other aromatics; also litson
achara, atsara gata. coconut milk
lechon de leche. roasted suckling
baboy. pork gulay. vegetables
pig, generally around six weeks-old
bagoong alamang. shrimp paste habichuelas. green bean. alsO called
lihiya. lye water (sodium hydroxide)
string bean
bagoong isda. fish paste
lugaw rice porridge or gruel; also
baka. beef halo-halo. iced concoction of
lugaa
sweetened fruits. root crops.
bangus. milkfish lug log. thin rice noodles
gelatin. tapioca, and beans
bigas. uncooked rice lumpia. general term for spring roll
hipon. shrimp
bihon. thin rice noodles m.lcapu 0 coconut sport
inasal. spit-roasted or grilled; the
buko. young coconut 1I0nggo barbecue. tart from a ma agklt glutinous or sticky rice
vinegar marinade and tinged
bulalo. beef shank soup
yellow-orange by annatto rra'lok chicken

•. Icitrus fruit native to the green mango


general term for mushroom qgCl h
Philippines'• also kol omans I.
coconut cream rrer nd snack

o mung bean
"I rice cakes
ture coconut from which pusit. squ id
.
nlY og m a nd milk are extracted SUka. vinegar
cream a . puso ng saging . banana flow er
from the meat; the pith, called tahure so
puti. white · ybean Curd f
is also used as food yellow or bl rom fermented
ubo d, · ack soyb
puto. generic te rm fo r t taJure eans; also
pako. fern cakes sea med rice
talong · eggplant
de sal. small, oval buns that are
pan the traditional F'II Iplno
" brea kfast relleno. term for stuffed f ood- tang lad. lemon grass
bread; literally "bread of salt" chicken, beef, fish, crab or
tan .
vegetables gUlgue. Spanish mackerel
it general term for noodle tapa. a means of .
pane . . sabaw soup preserving meat
dishes; also ponslt
tausi. salted black beans
pandt Molo. soup of pork-filled sago starchy pith of the sago palm
wantons, shrimps and chicken formed into pearl - like globes tengang daga. dried black fun
and boiled till tender also known as wood ear gus,
named for Molo, in the province
mushroom
of Iloilo sampaloc. tamarind; also somp% k
1'1I apia.
. a low fat, white-fleshed fish
pandan. screwpine siling labuy, bird 's eye chili that originated in Africa and has
panocha. raw, unrefined sugar that been introduced to many parts
siling pangSlgar ~ green finger chili
comes in granulated form or of the world; also called St.
tha t is mil dly hot; usually used
in molded cakes ; also ca ll ed Peter's fi sh
for sinigang or paksiw
molasses cake tinapa. genera l term for smoked fish
sinamak. vi negar infused with chili ,
papaya. best eaten raw when ri pe, torta. local term for omelet
garlic, langkawas (blue ginger)
while the green fruit can be
and ginger; particular to the I,bl ": heart or pith of the palm; see
cooked as a vegetable
provinces of Iloilo and Negros also niyog
patis. fish sauce Occidental
wansuy. cilantro, or coriander leaves
piiia. pineapple slnangag . cooked rice that has been

pinais . to wrap f ood .In leaves and fried, usually with garlic

steam in I't 5 own JUice


.. singkamas. jicama, also yam bean,
pinaputok . sweet turnip
. cooking by wrapping in
Coconut
. or banana leaves then sinigang. a stew of fish, shellfish,
steam ing pork or beef with vegetables in
pinipig youn . a broth soured by tamarind, or
g nce pounded and
toasted kamias, or tomatoes, etc.

PUla honer sitaw. yard-long bean


rn I ' can also refer to
a asses sotanghon. mung bean noodles
pUluta
n. appetizer suahe greasy back shrimp

sugpo. prawn
Glossary I ZZJ

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