Stitching Department

Operations
1. Small Parts
2. Back panel
3. Front panel
4. Assembly

Parts of the Basic pant

Parts Name Numbers
Watch Pocket 1
Facing 2
Lining 2
Back Pocket 2
Yoke 2
Back panel 2
Front panel 2
Fly 2
Loops 1
Waist Band 1
Total 17

Stitching Machine
There are three types of stitching machines:
1. Lock Stitch Machines
 SNLS
 TNLS
2. Chain Stitch Machines
 SNCS
 TNCS
3. Special Type Machines
 Over lock
 3 Thread O/L
  4 Thread O/L
 5 Thread O/L
 Feed of Arm
 Waist Band Attach
 Loop Making
 Eyelet
 Bartack
 Auto mock
 Welt pocket Make Auto
 Saddle Stitch
 Cover Stitch
 Auto Zigzag

Folder types used

 1 Part
In this type 1 part waist band is used. It is folded on both sides according to
allowance then body part is inserted in between the waist band and stitch
is done.
 2 Part
There are two pieces of waist band. The body part is inserted in between
these pieces and then stitching is performed.
 2 way insertion
There are two parts of waist band. Here two body parts are inserted in
between two parts of waist band and stitching is performed.
 Body fold

 Straight
 Contour

Small Parts
 Fly over lock
  Fly zipper Attach
 Watch Pocket Secure
 Watch Pocket Hem
 Watch Pocket And notches Tracing
 Watch pocket attach
 Front pocket Facing Press
 Front pocket Facing Attach
 Front Facing edge Secure
 Cover Stitch
 Back Pocket Secure
 Back Pocket Hem
 Back Pocket Press
 Loop Make
 Loop Segregation
 Waist Band Fuse
 Pocket Bag close
 Pocket Bag Turn And Tope Stitch

Back Panel
 Back Yoke Attach
 Thread Trim Back Yoke
 Back Seam Join
 Thread Trim Back rise
 Back Pocket With Bottom corners, notches and hip stitch tracing
 Back Pocket Attach
 Back pocket Top Stitch
 Back Pocket Bartack
 Back Panel side Over Lock
 Label Attach

Front Panel
 Pocket lining attach to hang
 Hang swing top stitch
  Thread trim hang top
 Notches attach
 Front panel Over Lock crotch
 Fusing attach at panel
 Left fly attach
 J tracing
 J stitch zip fly
 Pairing for front panels
 Right fly attach and edge stitch zip fly
 Crotch join
 Fly trim
 Front panel side over lock
 Bartack fly and watch pocket
 Label making
 Label insert to poly bag
 Label attach

Assembly
 Matching front and back
 Inseam over lock
 Inseam top stitch
 Thread trim inseam
 Out seam close bustard
 Out seam safety stitch
 Hip stitch
 Hip stitch bartack
 Loop reinforcement tape trim
 Loop reinforcement patch tacking 1 side 2
 Loop tracing front
 Waist shell stay stitch
 Loop tacking
 Yoke and side loop tracing
 Waist band attach tracing
  Belt matching
 Waist band attach
 Extra waist band trim
 Waist band chain open
 Waist band corner close U shape
 Garment turn over manual
 Loop attach
 Bottom hemming
 Waist band button hole
 Ticket removing

Finishing and Packing

Pre Finishing
 Loop cutting
 Metal attachment
 Labeling
 Heat bed sticker pasting
 Trimming
 Turning
 Press

Finishing
 Measurement checking
 Production checking
 Alteration
 Super checking

Packing
 Carding
 Packing
 Carton making
Services Department

Marketing department
The marketing department in a garment company is responsible for
marketing products made by the factory, finding new customers and
bringing more and more orders for the company. A marketing department is
headed by the marketing manager and supported marketing team.

 They meet with prospects and existing buyers. They show their latest product
development (designs) to the buyer. They are given responsibility for business
development for the company.
 This department showcases factory’s ability for developing new designs,
factory compliance, and quality policy and quality performance.
 Most common marketplace for manufacturers is international apparel shows
and exhibitions, where buyers and sellers meet to find each other. In the
exhibition, buyers pick their interesting design and place order if their target
price is met.
 In this internet age, garment factories build websites for marketing purpose and
increase their visibility to potential customers. Small factories post their product
in online yellow pages and do content marketing to reach a bigger market.
Social Media like Facebook, LinkedIn and Twitter are used as marketing tools.
 More than just developing new clients, retaining the existing customer is also
important. To retain your existing customers, you need to satisfy your
customers by shipping quality products and timely delivery and providing
quality services. The main mantra to retain customers and making them
marketer for you is to deliver more than you are paid for. Deliver more than
commitment and customer expectation.

Production Planning and Control

department
Production planning department is responsible for planning and scheduling
orders. This department is known as PPC department. They execute production
and do follow with all production processes. Production planning and scheduling
of activities are essential to procure raw material on time, complete production
activities on time and able handover shipment on time.

Small size factories do not keep a separate department for production planning.
Merchandisers do planning of pre-production activities and production head
prepares a production plan.

Factories those have separate PPC department, following activities are carried out
by them.

 Job or Task Scheduling

 Material Requirement Planning (Inventory)
 Loading Production
 Process selection & planning
 Facility location
 Estimating quantity and costs of production
 Capacity planning
 Line planning
 Production follow up and execution

Maintenance Department
 This department repair machines and look after maintenance of sewing
machines. Major activities of the machine maintenance department are

 Machine set up
 Repairing sewing machines
 Maintaining inventory of machine parts
 Doing preventive maintenance for machines and equipment

Industrial Engineering Department

Industrial Engineering department assists production department in setting line,
improving production and measuring production performance. Major activities of
Industrial Engineering department are product analysis, making operation
bulletin, calculating garment SAM, making line layout and workstation layout.
They capture production data and prepare daily production report.

In a typical garment unit, industrial engineering department handles following

activities

 Estimating the SAM of the garment for a new style for costing
 Calculating thread consumption for garments
 Providing operational breakdown with SAM and target for each operation
for an order (style)
 Selection of machines and work-aids and number of machines for each
operation of a particular order
 Method improvements through method study
 Time study of the operators
 Capacity Study of operators
 Line Balancing
 Calculating direct labor cost
 Develop detailed production methods, from detailed manual movements to
major decisions on technology.
 Documentation of all methods using manuals, computer-based system as
appropriate.
 Operator performance improvement
 Operator training program
 Production Control system
If you planning to set up a garment factory, you must consider employing
industrial engineers. Don’t fear about extra manpower cost but you will get a
return of it. You have to utilize IE’s skill in product and production planning.
Formulas
 Shift Target (operator) = Shift time/Sam of Operation
 Number of Machine = (Target * SAM)/Shift Time
 Capacity = (Shift time / SAM )* Efficiency
 Utilization = Output/Input
Where

Output = SAM of Garment * Number of Pieces Produced

Input = Shift time * Approved Labor

 Efficiency = Output/Input
Where

Output = SAM of Garment * Number of Pieces Produced

Input = Shift time * Present Labor

Quality Control / Quality Assurance

department
Responsibilities of the quality control department may vary organization to
organization but main activities almost remain the same. Activities of the
Quality control department are as follows.

 Setting up Quality Standards

 Establishing Quality SOP
 Quality Assurance
 Quality Control activities at the Pre-production stage.
 Auditing inward fabric and trims and ensuring only quality goods are
accepted.
 Involvement in product development and sampling stage and take care of
quality aspects of samples.
 Ensure that no faulty fabric is sent for cutting. If a minor fault is present in
the fabric, defects should be marked on the fabric and the same thing must
be communicated to the cutting department.
 Preparing the audit report of the fabric and trims quality.
 Conducting pre-production meeting before production start.

\
Human Resource and Administration
 This department is concern about the social issue of the employee. They
look after recruiting and employee welfare.
 This department maintains employee attendance and absent records.
 Handle labor issues
 Factory compliance and social compliance
 New employee orientation
 Payment of workers

Fabric Store and fabric sourcing

department
The fabric store is handled by Fabric in-charge and the in-charge is assisted by a
team of helpers for loading and unloading fabrics and issuing fabric to cutting
department. Fabric department receives and stores all kind of fabrics. Fabric rolls
are kept in the rack or on wooden pallets.

Following are the major Activities of the fabric store

 Sourcing of Fabrics
 Receive Raw Materials
 Prepare shade band for dyed and printed fabrics
 Basic Testing of Physical properties of fabrics
 Maintain inventory record for fabrics
 Fabric Issue
 Fabric printing
 Fabric Reconciliation
 Communication with Fabric supplier

Sampling Department
Sampling department makes all kind of samples that need to be submitted
to the buyer. Sampling department checks fit of the sample. Sampling
department communicates problems related to orders to the production
department.

As mentioned in the above that in small size factories, pattern making, and
sampling is kept in one department. They have common activities.
Sampling department’s activities are

 Reading garment spec and understanding workmanship of the garment.

 Assisting merchants in preparing bill of material for the sample
 Calculating fabric consumption
 Making garment samples by following complete processes of cutting,
sewing, finishing and checking.
 Measurement all samples and check the quality of the garment samples.
Prepare quality inspection report for measurement and visuals.
 Fabric shrinkage test is done in garment form.
 Coordinate with production team about communicate about critical points
for stitching and handling of a style

Pattern Making Department

Pattern making department makes garment patterns and digitize patterns
to CAD. CAD stands for Computer Aided Design. Pattern making
department is headed by Pattern master. Pattern making department is
also known as the technical department.

Following are the major Activities of Pattern Making Department

 Pattern Making
 Pattern Grading
 Sample Development
 Garment FIT checking and correction of patterns
 Incorporate buyer’s comments on samples
 Making production viable sample
 Fabric Consumption Calculation
 Marker planning
 R&D section
R&D (Research and Development) section plays a vital role to the overall
production and quality of a fabric. The task of R & D section starts from
fabrication and ends at final inspection of finished fabric. That is they used to
follow up all the section like fabric planning, knitting, dyeing, printing,
finishing, lab, quality control and assurance etc. till the final finished fabric
comes out.

Work Flow Chart of R & D Section

Sampling Order Receive from Merchandiser
↓
Analysis of Sample
↓
Selection of Yarn
↓
Finishing Parameters (Samples + Production)
↓
Check and Testing of the Sample
↓
Approved the Sample

Production department
Product development is the very first stage of introduction of new style. The
concept of new style or design is developed by fashion designer which is merely a
design or sketch on the paper. Product development is the process where that
sketch or design is converted in to a 3D form garment, with all technical and
aesthetic approach keeping in mind. The first stage is of organizing the thoughts
and collecting images (Mood board) from designer. It captures the mood or flavor
of the design project, as well as reflects the target customer, sometimes designs
are developed target costumer keeping in mind.
The responsibility of this department include
 order processing
  line balancing
 production planning
 setting production floor
 ordering machine and equipment
 maintaining optimum output
 ready the production order time
 getting the quality check done and shipping on time
 control the cost

MATERIAL MANAGEMENT AND CONTROL

MMC is that department which is responsible for the sourcing of materials
required to construct a garment.
Materials used for the construction of garments are basically of two types.
1. Fabric.
2. Trims and Accessories.

TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES

Following is the list of most commonly trims used:
 Thread
 Zippers
 Buttons
 Rivets
 Woven Labels
 Leather Patch Labels
 Tags
 Tag Pins or Chords for tags (e.g. for hang tags)
 Fusible
 Hangers
FABRIC INSPECTION
When fabric is come to this department they check the fabric roll they check the
roll number and order number with all specification after that they cut two pieces
from the roll one is small size and the other one Is little large from the first one
they measure that pieces before the wash and after the wash to check the
shrinkage if the shrinkage is down or up from the required shrinkage if this
shrinkage is control during the last washing then they pass the fabric to the other
process to complete the fabric inspection if not then they send the fabric roll to
the fabric store. The next process in the fabric inspection is to check the whole
fabric of roll if the fabric is damage or any fault they note the faults place and
then if the percentage of this faults places is over the required faults then they
send back the roll of fabric. Some faults are like (nods, slabs, selvage cut, broken
faults, weaving faults, starting marks, weaving marks etc.)
SHRINKAGE TEST
METHOD
Take a piece of fabric with 60 cm length and 60 cm width from the fabric roll in a
way that length is along the grain line. Draw boundaries of 5cm on all sides of the
fabric and we’ll get a square area of 50cm x 50cm in the fabric. Stitch the fabric
from both sides along with the 50 cm lines using a single needle operation. Over
lock the fabric from all sides except one side that is parallel to the weft. Over lock
this side in a way that it becomes like a pillow cover and send the fabric for
washing. After required wash is done:
Calculate the following measurements.
1. Width after wash
2. Length after wash
FORMULA OF SHRINKAGE

SHRINKAGE =MEASUREMENT AFTER WASH - MEASUREMENT BEFORE WASH X

100%