f Janice Wang claims that the “root cause of many ill-fitting garments is the industry misconception that the hourglass figure is the dominant body shape today” (Speer 2006, 40)."The SizeUSA data analysis of womens measurements showed that the hour~ glass is the least dominant shape even though the industry had persistently based its grade rules on that shape. In her work with the SizeUSA scanned data, Cynthia L. Istoole defined nine body shapes and honed in on four dominant types: © Rectangle shape—bust and hips are basically the same circumference; the waist is less than 9 inches smaller than the bust."This shape represents 46.12 percent of the sample. '* Spoon shape—hips ate larger than the bust by 2 inches or more; the waist is less than 9.25 inches smaller than the bust. This shape, sometimes called pear shape, represents 20.92 percent of the sample. © Inverted triangle—bust is larger than the hips by 3.6 inches or more; the waist is less than 9 inches smaller than the bust. This shape represents 13.83 percent of the sample. © Hourglass—bust and hips are basically same ciscumference; the waist is smaller than the bust by 9 inches or more. ‘This shape made up 8.4 percent of the sample.Table 11.1 Comparisons of ASTM and SizeUSA Body Measurements ASTI OSSES-AT "Arorge" Site 4 | i i i i em me aw we [a suaight aowe 2 | aw js i Na SSA “Aen” wor us ese | nn i i Sie 42 ‘2 aw» ie grorines NaTal Missas Petite — Woman'sPlus Junior Misses Misses sizes are designed to fit adult females of average build. Records indicate that a body from 5 feet, 5 inches to 5 feet, 6 inches was considered an average height when this category was established; the new misses standard wes 5 feet,5 inches throughout, “The ASTM voluatary standard for misses previously identified sizes in this category range from 2 € 20, even numbers only, but has now added sizes 00 and 0.Retail stores, typically stocked only sizes 6 to 16 in their misses merchandise mix, but today many stores are offering smaller sizes including 2 and 4, and sometimes (0 and 0. This begs the question of whether these smaller sizes actually refiect smaller people or if vanity sizing has been accepted in order to fit larger people into the commonly offered misses size range. Industry sources indicate that more than half of the U.S. female population ‘would wear a size larger than size 14 ifthe previous ASTM body measurements were routinely applied, and the SizeUSA study confirmed that assumption. It is of great interest 0 the authors shat the bust size fora size 14 in the previous ASTM standard ‘was 39 inches while in the new standard it is 4013/8 inches, deiving home she reality shat vanity sizing has tly been applied in the inductry over the part decade. This fact has great implications for product developers, for they must decide which sizes they will effer within this range and identify the actual measurements and shape of dheir ‘arget customers in order to produce marketable products thar meet the expectations of their customer base.Juniors Jonior sizes B10 woman of about 5 feet, 6 inchs with a shorter torte and longer limbs, and less mature body development than the misses category. The category is labeled with dd nurnbers from 1 to 19 in newest revision of ASTM Intemational Stancard D6829- (02 (2008) found on their website (ASTM Intervational 2008b).Although many retailers sill mit the sange they stock on the floor 10 sizes 5 to 13, some renilers are offering additional sizes within this range, especially online. The junior market reflects both a holy type and a younger styling sewhetie. Even with 2 smaller market share in terms of numbers of consumers this size range is very visible in the marketplace and has many styling options available to chem. Maternity Expectant mothers buying maternity clothing have different sizing needs as their body dimensions change during pregnancy. A newer size grouping, maternity, evolved within the industry and is now represented by ASTM D7197-06, Standard Table of Body Measusements for Misses Maternity Sizes Two to Twenty-Two (2-22) (ASTM Totemational 2006) The increased visibility of this niche market and consumer desire for fashionable wear specifically designed for pregnant women precipitated the devel- ‘opment of the new range of sizes in this product category. Other Merchandise Categories for Women ‘Throughout the women's size categories, manufacturers hare attempted to control their stock-keeping units (SKUs) by combining some sizes. Thisis particularly true in the sportswear produc: clasfications and in the separates and coordinate categories where knit fabrics are common. In these categories, products may be sized as small (S), medium (M), large (L), and extra-large (XL). These sizes are typically based on the chest messurement, reflecting the misses sizes fiom 6 oF 8 through 16 or 18. The consumer must seek out the size charts to determine which option that firm elected tw use, which can cause some confusion in the markerplace. Nevertheless, when com bining these sizes into four groups, the combination size must of necessity cover the larger body to be represented in that size. Some suppliers also produce peties in the combined ranges, but they typically elect to begin with a smaller size, abeled petite, before the small, medium, and lage sizes. Some producers have also grouped women's sportswear into fewer sizes. The designations used in womens sportswear are 1X, 2X, and 3X and parallel the combining of the women’s range into three size groups for sizes 14W through 24W. Another possible use of combination sizes reflected in the ‘marketplace is the combining of junior and misses sizes, such as 7/8, 9/10, and 11/12, to accommodate varying torso lengths, Sizing for some kinds of women's apparel, such as nightwear, lingerie, and other products categorized as intimate wear, is identified by other means, For example, bras ae sized with a two-part designation that has evolved from a French system, The size ica number representing an under-bust measurement phis5 to 6 inches, depending onHsien eae otro: Tar, plate or ces owe 1104 Foon: cee ‘Se Category: Mos Seren: F2011 8 samme are: “een Gear fh He 2 eaemainaiomeee ober Dove gry sweser | 1 s[efala sxeroni FSET B.om