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LILT LAPPET.
^^F l^onil^Qn 30lflrF Pooh:
i

BEING

THE SECOND AND ENLAEGED EDITION

OP

HONITON LACE-MAKING;
AND CONTAINING

FULL AND PHACTICAl INSTEUOTIONS FOE ACQUIEING THE AET OF

MAKING THIS BEAUTIFUL AND FASHIONABLE LACE.

By ««DEVONIA."

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.

London :

'THE BAZAAE" OFFICE, 32, WELLINGTON STREET,

STEAND, W.C.
 LONDON
FEINTED BT F. PHILLIPS, lU, -WELLINGTON-STREET, STRAND, W.C.
 PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

The kind manner in which my little treatise on the art of Lace making

has been received, has encouraged me to publish it in a revised and

enlarged form. I have made a few verbal alterations in the earlier

patterns, as in the course of frequent working, better and quicker

modes of doing them presented themselves, still the first part is sub-

stantially the same as when originally written. In the second part I

have endeavoured to enlarge the area of Honiton lace, and vary the

interest, by reviving some of the many difPerent combinations of stitches

in which the workers delighted in the old days when Lace-making was at

its zenith, before they sunk to the weary round of turkey's tails, spread

eagles, conventional roses, vulgar lilies, coarse thread, bad work, and

little pay. The concluding instructions are devoted to a form of Lace

which is a novelty in England, though it has been long worked in

Brussels ; I mean the process of doing flowers in relief, by means of

which the white threads may be formed into a veritable work of art, and

afford scope alike for genius and for high mechanical skill.

I must here add one word of thanks to my kind and talented

coadjutor, Olive, without the aid of whose clever drawings it would

have been impossible for me to have rendered my descriptions intelligible.

"Devonia."
" The Bazaar," Office,

32, Wellington Stkeet, Strand.

 PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.

In opfebing to the world this little book upon the art of Lace making,

which has hitherto been held a sort of trade mystery into which very few

ladies have been initiated, I have been actuated by two motives. The

first being the thought that in these high-pressure days, when brains and

energies are taxed to the utmost, anyone who contributes to the number
of calm and quiet occupations for women is a real benefactor to the sex ;

and the second being the desire to place within the reach of patience as

well as wealth, the loveliest fabric that ever set off female beauty.

I have taken very great pains to make these elementary instructions

quite clear. I am aware how difficult the task is to learn a perfectly

new process, even with the aid of illustrations, from written words only ;

but some of my unknown pupils, by sending me specimens of their first

efforts, have shown me that it can be achieved, and I therefore greatly

hope that I have succeeded in giving a most fascinating employment to

many who would not otherwise have been able to attain it.

"Devonia."
" The Bazaar " Office,

32, WELLiHaxoN Street, Strand.

 ^oniton HarF-raaWng.

CHAPTER I.

On its Origin and Ebquisites.

A.S the taste tor lace, the most graceful and beautiful of all feminine
adornments, has increased so much lately, so also the pretty art of making
it has become widely spread among ladies; but numbers have hitherto been

deterred from attempting pillow-lace from the want of instructions, and

also from the difficulty (out of the lace districts) of procuring pillows
and bobbins. As I have been a lace-worker for many years, I thought
it lay within my power to obviate the first difficulty by bringing out a

series of instructions for Honiton lace-making; and the second lessens

naturally as the ardour for learning increases, since supply will always
follow demand.
The Devonshire, or as it is commonly called, the Honiton, lace, is the
most beautiful and valuable of the English laces; and it is at the same
time the most interesting to make, and the easiest for an amateur to bring
to perfection, for whereas the edging laces require a distinct learning for
each pattern, and continue in one dull routine, the lace maker, who has
once mastered the six stitches of which Honiton is composed, can work
out the most abstruse design with perfect ease, and vary it to suit her
own fancy.
The old Honiton was copied from the Flemish, and they are so much
alike that even an expert finds it now difficult to pronounce decisively
which is which but Honiton has long acquired a distinctive character of
;

its own, and it has the rare merit of not being imitable by machinery, at
all events at present so that even the grosser male intelligence, which is
;

apt to look upon all laces whether hand or machine made " as very much
the same," cannot possibly take Honiton for anything but real.
The qualities requisite for learning this lace are dehcacy of touch, fairly
good eyesight, patience and perseverance, which two last quaUties are
essential to success in every pursuit whatever.
I have said "fairly good sight,'* for, although it is not so trying
to the eyes aa is commonly supposed, still it might prove troublesome to
O IIONITON LACE-3IAKING

a short-Bight ed person. The passement patterns and covering cloths

should be coloured, the former brown, the latter blue or green and I;

would not advise working by candle or lamp-light, aa the pins throw

a shadow which is apt to be confusing. Beginners are very apt to tire
their eyes, because in their eagerness they look too intently, and so strain
the sight, as a learner of knitting often strains her thumb, by concen-
trating her attention upon her work, and in consequence holding her
needle too tightly but practice improves the faculty of touch to so great
;

a degree, that the fingers of an experienced knitter or lace maker will

detect a mistake before the eyes do.
I now come to the paraphernalia required before commencing the
study of Honiton. The list is as follows A pillow (which is slightly
:

different in shape from those used for the edging laces), a cover for the
same, two cloths to cover the work, a hank of lace thread, and one of the
shiny thread called by lace makers "gimp," four dozen bobbins, a paper
of lace pins and one of common pins, a small soft pincushion, which had
better have a tongue so that it can be pinned to the lace pillow and shifted
at pleasure a needle-pin, a most useful little implement, which is best
;

formed by heading a darning needle either with a bead or sealing-wax, it

is used for pricking the patterns, winding up the thread when the bobbins

—
get too long, &c. the sewings used formerly to be made with the needle-
pin, but a very fine crochet hook is now often used for that purpose a ;

bobbin-bag, which should be not quite so deep as the bobbins, and stitchtd
dowTi in compartments only large enough to take a dozen pair at a
time ; a pair of scissors which will cut sharply at the points, and finally a
passement pattern.
The simplest and, as I think, the best mode of arranging the pillow, is
to cover it with soft white linen or calico,and make the cover cloths of blue
or green batiste or calico. As Honiton ought to be kept of snowy white-
ness, it is desirable to have two sets of pillow covers of a washing material.
Undoubtedly, however, if ornament is looked to, the prettiest material is
silk, and it is pleasant to work upon; but satin is bad, and velvet entirely
inadmissible, that is, if real work is intended; it is hard to stick the pins
into, and the bobbins drag upon it in a most unpleasant manner. The
dimensions of the cover cloths should be 18in. or 20in. by 12in. One is used
for covering the work already done the other, the pattern that is to be
;

worked over in order to prevent the threads from catching in the heads of
the pins which fasten the pattern on the pillow. When not working, one
of the cloths should be turned hghtly over the pins, to preserve the lace
from dust. Everything is to be pinned on the pillow, and not fastened in any
other way, for Honiton does not follow one steady course, like the edging
lace, but moves in eccentric orbits, continually requiring the pincushion,
Bovers, &G., to be re-adjusted.
As the work, however, is all done on the top of the pillow, it rather im-
proves its appearance (as an article of furniture) to give it a flounce or
valance about 4Lin. deep.
When all these articles have been procured, and the pillow dressed,
the next thing to be done is to wind the bobbins, which operation is to
 ON WHOLE STITCH —PLAIN EDGE. 9'

be performed as followa —
Hold the bobbin in the left hand, and wind from
:

you mth the right keep the winding as smooth as possible, but do not
;

over fill the bobbin. When sufficiently full secure the thread thus holding ;

the bobbin still in the left hand, with the palm upwards, and the thread in
the right, place the middle finger of the left hand upon the tightened thread ;.

a turn of your wrist will now bring the thread round your finger transfer ;

the loop thus formed to the bobbin by gently pulling with the rieht hand
while you put the loop over the head of the bobbin with your finger. This
is called a "rolling or half hitch," and keeps the bobbin from running

down. The thread can be lengthened by tightening it, at the same time
gently turning the bobbin round towards the left or shortened by lifting
;

the loop with the needle-pin and winding the bobbin up. When wound, the
bobbins must be tied in pairs by fastening the ends of the two cottons, the
ends of the knot cut off as closely as possible, and wound a Httle way
on to one bobbin, the other being unwound proportionately this is in
;

order to get the knots out of the way for the first start, as they are very
troublesome things, and have to bp dealt with in divers ways, which will
be duly enumerated at the proper time. Winding with a machine, when
possible, is to be preferred to hand-winding, as the latter is apt slightly to
discolour the thread, even when the greatest care is taken.

CHAPTEE TI.

On Whole Stitch —Plain Edge.

Having prepared the bobbins, you can now commence the first pattern,
thus : —
Take the pillow on your lap, resting it against a table or chair to
steady it fasten on the passement pattern by running two or three common
;

pins straight into the pillow through the edge of the pattern pin the coyer-
;

cloths across, so as just to leave exposed between them the leaf you are
about to work. Stick a lace-pin into the pinhole at the top of the leaf as
far into the pillow as will steady it, and hang twelve pair of bobbins on
to this pin the length of the thread from the bobbins to the pin should be
;

about four inches. Arrange the bobbins so as to have those which contain
the knots in the middle. The bobbins are always treated in pairs; there is
but one exception to this— the gimp bobbins, which will be spoken of after-
wards. They are divided into two classes, working and passive. The
slightly spread
latter should lie straight down the pUlow, not in a heap, but
out in a fan shape ; the workers, of which there are always three pair, work
across the passive ones from side to side alternately. Do not number or in
10 nONITON LACE-MAKING.
any way mark the bobbins tliey are so continually cliaiigiiig that it will
;

only confuse you to do so, but in your own mind call the pair you are work-
ing Trvith 1 and 2, and the others 3 and 4, 5 and 6, 7 and 8, &c., as you come
to them. One word as to the management of hands and eyes. As soon as
possible get the habit of using both hands simultaneously, to assist in which
1 will give directions as to which hand is used. Delicacy of touch is, as I
havo said, an essential, for lace thread is so brittle at the same time the ;

touch should be firm, and there should be continual tiny pulla, especially
at the edge.
For the eyes, accustom yourself to watch the work, and not the bobbins,
and then you will be able to detect a mistake at once; otherwise you do not
find it out till the end of the row. I will now proceed to give directions
for whole or cloth stitch and plain
edge.
First, run the lace pin down to its
head to hold firm the 12 pair of bob-
bins ; twist the outside pair on each
side 3 times to the left put the ;

left hand pair aside, and take the two

next pairs, numbering them 1 and 2,
3 and 4. 1 and 2 are the working pair,
and will work across, taking the other
bobbins as they come.
1st stitch. Put 2 over 3 with the left
hand with both hands put 4 over 2 and
;

3 over 1 1 over 4 with the left hand

; ;

push away 3 and 4 with the left hand,

and bring forward 5 and 6 with the
right.— 2nd stitch. 2 over 5 (1. h.) ; 6
over 2 (r. h.) 5 over 1 (1. h.) ; 1 over 6
;

(1. h.). Push away 5 and 6 (1. h.) bring ;

forward 7 and 8 (r. h.). 3rd stitch. —

2 over 7 (1. h.) 8 over 2 (r. h.) ; 7 over
;

1 (1. h.) 1 over 8 (1. h.).

; Push away 7
Fig. 1. Leaf in Progress.
and 8 {1. h.) bring forward 9 and 10
;

(r. h.)- —
4th stitch. 2 over 9 10 over 2, 9 over 1 1 over 10._ 5th stitch.
; ; —
2 over 11 12 over 2, 11 over 1
; 1 over 12.— 6th stitch. 2 over 13 14
; ;

over 2, 13 over 1 1 over 14. 7th stitch. 2 over 15 16 over 2, 15 over 1

; — ;

1 over 16.— 8th stitch. 2 over 17 ; 18 over 2, 17 over 1 ; 1 over 18.— 9th
stitch. 2 over 19 20 over 2. 19 over 1
; 1 over 20. ;

You have now worked across to within one pair. To do plain edge, twist
1 and 2 three times to the left with the left hand, while the right is taking
a lace pin from the pincushion then, holding both bobbins in the left hand,
;

stick the pin in front of the twisted thread into the first pin-hole on the
right hand as far into the pillow as will hold the pin steady, give a very
small pull to draw the twist up this had better always be done after a
;

twist. You have now two pair outside the pin. The right hand pair you
find twisted, as it was done at the commencement. Make what is called
 ON "WHOLE STITCH —PLAIN EDGE. 11
the " stitch about the pin," 2 over 21, 22 over 2, 21 over 1, 1 over 22. Twiat
both pairs 3 times to the left, using both hands simultaneously ; puU the
twists gently up. The first pair have now worked across, and are put away,
the last pair becoming 1 and 2 in their turn but before commencing this ;

row must give a word of caution. In the first row yon took the bobbins
I
as they came in arranging them so as to make the knots belong to the
;

passive bobbins, they were of necessity twisted over one another. At the
beginning this does not matter but now each bobbin has its separate
;

place, and every twist will show a defect in the work. It is here that the
quality of patience comes into play. In putting a pillow down the bobbins
are very apt to run together and become twisted but they must be care- ;

fully disentangled each time.

Half a beginner's work is to recover the bobbins from a tangle. It is a
tiresome process, but not a difficult one and it has its uses, as it gives
;

facility of handling the bobbins, and accustoms the eye to detect the
wrongful twists.
In the 2nd row the bobbins must be numbered from right to left, 4 and
I 3, 2 and 1 the latter being the ;

I
working pair. There is an appa-
rent reversal of the stitch, but in
I

reality the theory is the same, i.e.,

I

I
there are two pair of bobbins con-
cerned, a right and a left hand
I

pair the middle left hand bobbin

I
;

is always put over the middle

right hand one, each of the latter
I

pair is put over the one nearest

I

it, and the middle left hand again

over the middle right.

I

In working from left to right the

workers begin and end the stitch ;

in the return row the passive pair

Fig. 2. Leaf rmisHED. begin and end it. I will now give
the second row, the bobbins being numbered thus 22, 21, 20, 19, 18, 17, 16, :

15, 14, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2,

1.— 1st stitch. 3 over 2 (I. h.) 2 ;

over 4 (1. h.) 1 over 3 (r. h.) 4 over 1 (1. h.) Put away 3 and 4 with the
; ;

right hand, bring forward 5 and 6 with the left.— 2nd stitch. 5 over 2 2 ;

over 6, 1 over 5 6 over 1.— 3rd stitch. 7 over 2 2 over 8, 1 over 7 8 over
; ; ;

1.— 4th stitch. 9 over 2 2 over 10, 1 over 9 10 over 1.— 5th stitch. 11 over
; ;

2 2 over 12, 1 over 11 12 over 1.— 6th stitch. 13 over 2 2 over 14, 1
;
over ;
;

13 14over 1.— 7th stitch. 15 over 2 2 over 16, 1 over 15 16

;
over 1.— Sth ;
;

stitch. 17 over 2 2 over 18, 1 over 17

; 18 over 1.— 9th stitch. 19 over
;

" 2 over 20 1 over 19

• 20 over 1. Ton have now returned to the edge, and
;

find the pair of bobbins which were put aside at

the commencement of the
firstrow twist 1 and 2 thrice to the left, stick a pin in the first left hand
;

pin, 21 over 2
pinhole (in front of the twist) make the stitch about the
;

thrice, and puU the twist

2 over 22, 1 over 21 22 over 1, twist both pair
:

to within three rows of the end ;

up. Eepeat these two rows until you come
12 HONITON LACE-MAKING.
then cut off a passive pair in each row, close up to the work, but taking
great care not to cut the working thread. When the leaf is quite finished,
divide the bobbins into three divisions, and plait them for about a quarter
of an inch this is called " The Beginner's Stem."
;
Take the two outside
bobbins, turn their tails to one another, and tie them by passing one over,
one under the opposite thread and drawing through, this is done twice, and
is called " tying up." Tie two or three more pairs to keep the plait from
undoing, and cut close off. Take out the pins tie the bobbins in pairs
;

again, wind away the knots, and do another leaf.

To recapitulate the instructions. Use both hands. Look at the work,
and not the bobbins. Always twist to the left. Stick the pins in only far
enough to hold them steady. Keep the bobbins of an even length,' and the
passive ones spread like a fan. Undo all tangles.

Good lace looks fine and compact, the pin-holes are close together, and
the edge firmly t\visted. In bad work, on the contrai-y, the edge looks ragged,
and the pin-holes are far apart and straggling, which gives the lace a loose
and coarse appearance. It is as easy to do good work as bad, and the result
is far more satisfactory. ^ -.. . _*t

CHAPTER III.

On Knots and Gimp. '-'^

The question of knots and broken threads must now come under con-
sideration, as they are sad stumbliag-blocks in the learner's path. If a
casualty occurs in the passive bobbins, it is easily repaired a knot must
;

never be worked into lace under any circumstances, but if there is one
inconveniently near, all you have to do is to lift the bobbin, draw the
thread back over the work, and either twine it in and out among the pins
until you have passed away the knot, or stick a pin in the pillow behind
the work and carry the thread round that, taking care not to pull it unduly
tight, and bringing it down again straight to its proper place lengthen
;

the thread, which, as I said before, is done by tightening it, and turning
the bobbin to the left, and continue the work. In the case of a broken
thread it is managed in this way. Cut the end off close to the work, stick
a pin behind the leaf in a straight line or nearly so wind the new thread
;

five or sis times round it, make a loop, which pass over the head of th? pin,
and bring the bobbin down to its proper place. The working bobbins
 ON KNOTS AND GIMP. 13
require a Kttle more particularity in dealing with them if you find you
;

have a knot in one you must change it away by giving it one twist with either
of the bobbins next inside the pins, there it will not show, but in the
middle of the leaf it would. By this process the knotted thread becomes
passive, and in the course of three or four rows may be dealt with as above
directed. If a working thread breaks, you must undo the row until you
come to the side where it was lying idle cut the end off close to the pin,
;

fasten the new thread to a pin straight behind the work, and tie the pair by
turning their tails to one another, and drawing them, one under and one
over the opposite thread twice, taking great care to draw up the first tie
quite close to the pin, and unless you have the securing pin in a straight
line, this is rather difiicult to do. If both working threads break short

Eemoval or Knots. Fig. 4. Leaf with Gimp.

Fig. :3. .

leaf spoiled, and take it off at once,

off a b^inner had better consider the
is long enough to knot up
temporarily, it can be " changed
but if one thread
" the first opportunity, and the other one may be tied at the edge.
away
always manage to have two
Do not deal with several knots in one place,
extra threads should not be cut off till the
or three rows between. The
tendrils or small circles, they sometimes have
leaf is finished. In working
to be cut off soon, as the
pins are in the way, but that is generally in stem
tighter, and there is not the same danger of
stitch, which holds the thread
their drawing out. • ., .,

the coarse glazed thread which is

sometimes seen mside the
Gimp is
leaves and flowers. It gives stability to the lace, and is often used
ed.'e of
as "a substitute for the raised
work at the side of leaves, being much
14 HONITON LACE-MAKDfG.
more quickly done. There are several ways of applying the trimPj ^^^ 1
will deal with them separately, as occasion arises, not to load the memory
with details which cannot be worked out at once. The simplest mode is as
follows.
Fill two bobbins with gimp, and make the half hitch as directed ; tie
them together,and wind away the knot on one. They are to be used
separately, but they are fastened together in order to put them on. Com-
mence a leaf as before, using the same number of bobbins. A gimp
bobbin is to lie on each side, immediately inside the pins, and is passed
through the working pair each time. Thus, in the first row, from left to
right, the gimp is put over No. 2 and under No. 1 to begin, and under No.
2 and over No. 1 to end the row. In returning from right to left, the gimp
is passed under No. 2 and over No. 1 at the.jbggini4Bg. ^.nd sjgf iS^o. J. and
under No. 1 at the end. When the leaf is finished, out the gimps off before
- "
plaiting the stem.'
'
',
'*\''f'

'CHAPTER IV.

On Stems and Sewings.

Stem stitch forms an important part of Honiton lace, for not only are the
stems and tendrils made with but also the circles inside flowers, and the
it^

raised work at the side of leaves, &o.

The little flower in the illustration is formed entirely of stem stitch ; and
in working it I shall be able also to teach another important process in this
lace, that of sewing.
Stick a pin at the end of the stem, and hang on six pair of bobbins.
This is the usual number for the stem ; in some very fine ones, five and
even four pair only are used, but unless directed to the contrary, it must
be understood that stem stitch is to be done with six pair. Ton wil observe
that the pin holes run on one side of the stem, and it is on the stitch at the
inner edge that the variation is made, the rest is done in whole stitch and
plain edge. To proceed, give the preliminary three twists to the outside
pair, and put them aside ; with the next pair work across till yon come t?
the last pair ; make a stitch and a half (or turning stitch) as follows work :

a whole stitch, give each pair one twist to the left, put the middle left-hand
bobbin over the middle right; lift the two pairs with each hand and
give them a little pull to make this inner edge firm ; put aside the inner
 ON STEMS AND SEWINGS. 15
pair and work back with the other to the ping,when make the plain edge
with the pair which had been first put aside. Stem stitch must always bo
on more or less of a curve, and the pin-holes must be on the outside, so
that it is sometimes necessary to turn the plain edg:e from the right to the
left band in the course of the work ; but the turning stitch is always the
same, i.e., one whole stitch, each pair twisted once to the left, middle left-
hand bobbin over middle right, pull up. Ton will find that the innermost
bobbin works backwards and forwards, but that the second one of the pair
remains stationary.
In working round sharp curves you should slant the pins outwards and ;

if you run one down to its head every here and there, three or four upright

ones will be sufficient to hold it steady, but where the stem is nearly straight-
more upright pins will be required. Tou can easily pass away knots in
stem stitch, and the extra threads may be safely cut off after five or six
rows. When you have worked round the circle inside the flower you will
find that you are coming
across the stem,when you
must make a sewing before
doing the plain edge, thus ;
stick a pin into the pin-
hole above the one you
wish to sew to, as the work
requires to be held down
firm for sewings. Insert
the crochet hook into the
vacant pinhole, and under
the twisted strand at the
left hand side of it ; draw
one of the working threads
through in a loop, pass
the second working bobbin
"-.hrough this loop tail fore-
most, pull the loop down.
Fig. 5. Open Trefoil. Take out the securing pin
at the side, put it into the sewing hole ; make the plain edge stitch, and
continue the work as before round the first petal, here you make another
sewing, but with a slight difference. In the first place you make it with the
inner pair of bobbins, and on this occasion the turning-stitch is dispensed
with you work straight across, sew to the nearest pin hole, but to the
;

outside edge instead of the strand across, which you will find rather easier ;

work straight back, and continue stem stitch round the middle petal. The
pins rather interfere with one another where the curves are so near, but
after the first row you can take them out of the finished work. At the end
of the middle petal make a sewing Hke the last, but at the end of the third,
where the work is finished off, two will be required ; the first to be made
before the plain edge stitch is done, the second after you have worked back
to the inner edge, and this last sewing must be made to one of the cross
strands, and is a little troublesome to do. Then tie all the threads inside
16 HONITON LACE-MAKING.
the last pair, tie up two or three more pairs, and cut off quite close. The
sewing^s and tyings up are the reason of Honiton bobbins being made
BO plain for the other laces the bobbins are turned and ornamented with
;

beads, but the Honiton must be perfectly smooth, as they are continually
passing through loops. Some old-fashioned lace makers prefer the needle
pin to the crochet hook for making sewings, and there are places where it
is necessary to use it when you do, keep the thread tight till the needle
;

pin has hold of it, then slacken it, and give a little flick with the needle pin,
which will bring the loop through the pinhole. The little trefoil spray is a
pretty one for sprigging nets, but all the examples I am giving are parts
of a large spray, and they can either be used separately or put together
afterwards.

CHAPTER y.

On Lace Stitch, Hanging on Bobbins, and False

Pinholes.

The next stitch to be learnt is a very pretty one, half or lace stitch and ;

we will return to the original leaf pattern, as that gives space enough
to master this stitch thoroughly. Stick a pin at the tip of the leaf, and
hang on eleven pairs, run the pin down to its head: it should be understood
that this is always to be done when fresh work is commenced, therefore I
need not repeat the direction every time. Work the first row in whole
stitch ;this again is always done at the commencement of lace stitch it is —
to bind the threads down in their proper places. Now give each pair one
preliminary twist to the left, except the three working pairs (which of
course have been already twisted three times) and also the pair immediately
inside the pins on each side these two pairs are never twisted, and a whole
;

stitch is made as the workers pass them at the beginning and end of the
rows, which forms the streak yoii may observe running down each side of
the leaf, and therefore I shall call it the streak stitch.
The principle of lace stitch is that only one bobbin works across the leaf
each time. You treat the bobbins in pairs, but the working pair is con-
tinually changing, therefore one thread runs straight across, and the others
slant down the work cross-wise. The stitch itself is as follows : Make the
whole or streak stitch, put the pair aside, and give the working bobbins one
twist to the left, bring forward the next pair, which are already twisted; put
the middle left-hand bobbin over the middle right, twist both pairs once to
 ON LACE STITCH, HANGING ON BOBBINS, AND FALSE PINHOLES. 1 7

the leftbring the next pair forward middle left-hand over middle right,
; ;

one twist with both pairs, and so on until you come to the streak pair make ;

a whole stitch without twisting (as

at first), twist thrice and make plain
edge then return in the same man-
;

ner, being careful always to make

one twist after the whole stitoh has
been done, a thing which loarnera
are very apt to forget. When within
a few rows of the end, cut off a pair
in this stitch, however, bobbins must
not be taken ofl.* indiscriminately as
in whole stitch, but cut in pairs,
being tied up first. Finish off with
beginner's stem.
It is a little difficult to deal with
knots in lace stitch, therefore they
should be wound out of the way ;

but if an unlucky one should appear

it uiay be treated in this manner tie :

EiG. 6. Leaf m
Lace Stitch. j^.
^^ ^^h its pair, cut the knotted
thread off, fasten the new one round a pin, and bring it down to its place ;
then tie up again. This must be done very neatly, as defects show so
much in lace stitch. Never take a knotted thread across if you can help
it ; it is easy to avoid
doing so by giving an
extra twist at the edge.
The bobbin with the knot
should be the foremost
one in doing the streak
stitch, and then the twist
sends it back. Of course
a knot can be managed at
the edge, as that is in all
respects the same as
directed for whole stitch
but the fewer threads that
are tied at the edge the
better, as it is so difficult
to cut the ends close off.
In Close Trefoil there is
no new stitch to learn,
but it will give an oppor-
tunity of practising all
Fig. 7. Close Trefoil those which have been
AND Leaf im Lace Stitch, with Gimp.
described, and also two-
operations which are frequently resorted to in Honiton, viz., hanging on
fresh bobbins in the course of the work, and making " false pin-holes.'*
B
 18 HONITON LACE-MAKING.
Commence Work straight up it (the leaf \vill be
at the end of the stem.
done afterwards) and round the inner circle of the flower, making a sewing
where you cross the circle. We now come to the petals, which are done
in whole stitch; but whereas there are more pinholes round the outside
edge than there are on the inside, which constantly happens round a curve,
the system of false pin-holes here comes into play but before describing
;

them must explain how to increase the number of bobbins, as those you
I
have on will not be enough round the thick part of the flower. You may,
however, work the first two rows with the six pair, then just before sticking
the second pin on the outside, take another pair (the knot having been
wound away from the middle), pass the thread underneath the two workers,
run it up close to the passive bobbins, stick a pin, and complete plain edge.
You have now a seventh pair, hanging on to the threads which come across,
work two more rows, and hang on another pair in the same manner.
By this time it will be necessary to make a false pin-hole, in order to keep
the outer and inner edges level with one another. Work across to the inside,
twist thrice, and stick a pin but instead of completing the edge, come
;

back with the same pair; when you again return to the inside, take out the
pin,and re-stick it in the same hole, then finish plain edge with the idle pair.
By means you stick two outer pins for one inner, and bring the work
this
smoothly round the curve. Where pins stand very close together, twist
only twice instead of three times, or the edge will be puckered.
The false pin-holes must be repeated until you have rounded the petal,
and come to the thinner part, when you must cut off a pair, choosing two
knotted threads. As you turn the corner to the second petal, sew twice to
hang on two pairs in two following rows, and cut them off when
the circle,
you have rounded the petal. The third will only require one extra pair
hung on, so there will be eight pairs for the first and third petals and nine
for the middle one, which is rather wider.
When you have finished the third petal, sew at each side, tie all the
threads up inside one of the working pairs, then tie them up separately,
and cut quite close.
In working this pattern remember to turn your pillow as the work turns,
so as to keep the passive bobbins straight in front of you if you neglect
;

this the threads draw to one side. When you hang on the six pair at the
commencement you had better leave three or four knots near the work and
cliauge them away as you pass up the stem.
For the you must hang on eight pair and two gimp bobbi:as. The
leaf
latter will take the place of the streak stitch,which is now omitted, the
gimp being passed through the working pair on each side in all other ;

respects^ this leaf is to be worked in the same manner as the large one
as you approach the stem tie up two pairs (in successive rows) and cut them
off sew to the stem on each side cut the gimp close, tie the remaining
; ;

bobbins inside the working pair, then tie them separately and cut off.
 CHAPTEE VI.

On the Difficulties op Beginnees, and Finish op Leap.

I TKUST that thoseladies who are doing me the honour to follow my

instructions,are becoming more at ease with the bobbins than they
were at the commencement of their task. In all instruction it is
best to begin by explaining first principles, without distracting the
attention with many minute directions as to mere matters of detail
but the time is now come when I can give a few hints which may
smooth away the difficulties of beginners, and enable them to work with
greater rapidity and precision. I have observed that these difEoiilties are
principally five making the twist, drawing up the threads, unwinding and
:

winding up the bobbins, and doing the sewings. I will take them in the
order in which they come. First the twists a beginner generally makes
:

them by turning the bobbins over and over one another on the pillow in a
careful and laborious manner, whereas the experienced lace maker lifts the
pair in her hand, holding them loosely, and twists them with a rapid action
of her fore finger and thumb it will seem awkward at first, especially
;

making both twists at once at the edge, but a little practice will soon give
the knack, and it is worth acquiring, as it saves so much time. The second
difQculty is in making the tiny pulls of which I have before spoken learners ;

are apt to fall into one of two extremes, they either pull up the threads
at every stitch, which is not necessary, and sometimes pull so hard as to
break them or, for fear of the latter, they do not draw them up at all and
; ,

then the work looks loose and ragged. In whole-stitch yon should pull up
in three places after the first stitch, when the row is finished (just before
;

the pin is stuck), and after the three twists are made. Stem stitch requires
careful drawing up, especially round curves, and not only the workers but
the passive bobbins at the inner edge should be pulled and patted to draw
them down tight. Lace-stitch, on the contrary, does not want much
pulling, except at the edge.
Simijle as the operations of unwinding and winding-up the bobbins
appear, they give a good deal of trouble to learners, as the threads ought
all to be kept the same length, and therefore need continual adjusting. To
shorten it, lift the bobbin with the left hand, holdijig it liorizont.ally, raise
the loop or hitch with tlie needle-pin, and hold it out while you wind up
the bobbin. To lengthen the thread, tighten it, and slowly turn the bobbin
to the left ; if it refuses to run, there is nothing for it but undoing the
halt-hitch by lifting it over the head of the bobbin, and making it again
when the thread is the proper length. New bobbins are very troublesome
in this way. especial! y when the thread in the course of the winding touches
)5 2
 20 HONITON LACE-MAKIXG.
the head of the bobbin ; I suppose the wood, being new, is slightly rough,
for I find no difficulty with my bobbins, which are polished by the work of
many years, but on the new ones, wound for the first time, the thread con-
tinually sticks.
All these, however, are but minor troubles which a little practice will
soon obviate but the fifth on the list, the sewing, is the most difficult part
;

of Honiton and you should take great care in doing it at first to

lace,
prevent getting into a slovenly way about it. It certainly is very provoking
to poke and poke in a futile manner for a quarter of an hour, and finally to
break the thread, which involves undoing the work for some way but ;

perhaps the following hints may avert some disasters of this sort. Before
doing a sewing you should remove the pincushion, all extra pins, or any-
thing which interferes with the free movement of the hand hold the hook ;

lyiDg along the pillow until you

have hold of the thread, then j

bring it to an upright position.

and draw the loop through with I
a series of little wriggles. You [

should always bear in mind

that whether you are sewing I

to a cross strand or outside I

edge, the hook is to be inserted I

into the pinhole and not into

the vacant space at the side, j

Do not sew -with a knotted 1

thread if you can possibly help

it, itdoes not matter which of
the workers you use if, how- ; [

'

ever, a knot is inevitable, as

sometimes happens, do not
draw it through into the pin-
hole, it is so apt to break as
itcomes down again.
If you have tried at a strand
Fig. 8, Spray of Leaves.
several times and failed, and it
is beginning to get frayed, sew to the strand on the other side the pin-
hole, or even to the outside edge, anything is better than making a hole in
the lace at the same time these expedients, especially the latter one,
;

should only be resorted to in cases of extremity, as they draw the edge in

and show a blemish.
For doing the sewings with the needle-pin, I will give more detailed
instructions when we come to the raised work.
I will now proceed with the instructions for making the spray of leaves
{Fig. 8).
In this first design, which I am giving in fragments, I am only teaching
fiat work; for you should be thoroughly familiarised with the yarious
stitches, before you attempt the raised but when the latter is not used,
;

it is sometimes necessary to cut off the bobbins at the end of a leaf. The
 ON THE DIFFICULTIES OF BEGtNNERS, AND FINISH OF LEAF. 21

simple resource of careless and slovenly workers is to tie thein all up,
and cut tliem off, leaving the raw ends like a little brush others plait ;

beginners' stem from one leaf to another, but this also has an awkward
appearance. I hope none of my pupils will be content with doing any but
the best work, although it may involve a httle degree more trouble. The
correct way of fastening off at the ends of leaves is shown in this spray.
Begin at the end of the stem, and work down to the middle leaf, which is to
be done in lace stitch, with the streak down each side when you commence ;

it, you must hang on two pair on one side, and three on the other, making

eleven pair in all. Always be careful when you turn from the stem to either
lace or whole stitch, to twist the pair which is at the inner edge three times
at the first pin.
Work do-\vn the leaf till yon have only three pin-holes on each side, then
tie up a pair, and cut it neatly off; do this in each row, and in the last row
cut two, so as to leave only four pair.
When you have stuck the end pin, make the stitch about it, and twist
the outside pair, but not the second in this pair tie up all the others very
;

close and neatly. Take out all the pins except three on each side (running
one down to its head every here and there) turn your pillow round, first
;

altering the two end pins, and slanting them outwards, bring the threads in
between these two end pins, and lay them down over the leaf. Lift the
pair in which you tied them, up, and pass it round the other threads, take
out one of the end pins, but not the one which was put in last make a ;

sewing, re-stick the pin, pass the same pair round, make another sewing in
the next pin-hole, tie np and cut off.
By this means the fi,nish comes on the wrong side of the lace, and the
leaf looks all right on the other side but you must be sure to slant the
;

two end pins, or when the bobbins come back, the end pulls in.
For the two other leaves, commence at the tip of the uppermost, which
is also to be done in lace stitch. Hang on eight pairs and two gimp
bobbins a gimp is considered equivalent to a pair, and you must therefore
;

allow more bobbins when you do not use it. Work down the leaf, cut off
three pairs (in three following rows), at the bottom change to whole stitch
;

as you work over the stem, and make a sewing on each side. Continue with
the number you have for the first three rows, then hang on a pair each row
for four rows and this hanging on must be done at the end of the row, but
;

before the gimp is passed through the working pair, for the gimp must
always lie next to the pins. Finish off this leaf in the manner before
directed, cutting the gimps off before you bring the bobbins inside. This
finish requires care and neatness, but the effect quite repays the additional
trouble that is expended on it.
 OHAPTEE YII.

On the Deyonia Speat and Fibee Leaf.

Having now made all the different parts of the spray, except the main
stem and one leaf, it only remains to piTt them together, which is done by
pinning- them down in their several places, and sewing each to the main
stem as you pass np it, the open trefoil being sewn separately to the leaf
spray. Yon may, however, if you please, treat these leaves and flowers as
distinct sprays, and work the one given in this article as a whole, which I
would at any rate advise when you rework it, as it ia the easiest way of
doing it.
I have called it the Devonia spray, because it does not represent any
particular flower, for I could not attend to botanical accuracy in the
design, as each part had to illustrate a special lesson. In to-day's work
there is still something to be learnt, the fibre stitch, and then the Devonia
spray will be complete.
In working it as a whole, you must begin with the main stem bang on ;

nine pair and a gimp, which latter runs np the outside of the curve. Work
in whole-stitch,and as the stem narrows, cut off' a pair of knotted threads
here and there, until, as you near the leaf, you have only four pair and the
gimp remaining. A false pin-holo will be required where the stem bends.
When yon commei ce the leaf you must hang two pair on the gimp side,
and two pair and a gimp on the other side. The leaf is worked in whole-
stituh, but a fibre runs down the middle this is formed by the workers
;

being always twisted before and after doing the centre stitch for the first
;

four rows twist them once, then twist them twice until you come to the
widest part of the leaf, when twist thrice for two rows, then twist twice,
and as the leaf narrows to the^oint only once. In the last three rows, cut
off three pair, tie up the gimps, cut close off, and finish at the tip as before
directed. Now hang on six pair for close trefoil, sew the outside pairs to
two adjoining pin-holes in the main stem before you begin the trefoil stem.
The spray of leaves is next to be worked, joining to the main stem in
the same way, by sewing the two outside pairs. When a stem is com-
menced in this way, there is no necessity to run the first pin down to its
head, as the sewings assist in keeping the bobbins firm. In making the
third leaf it will be as well to connect it with the close trefoil leaf, and this
is effected in the following manner : when you have stuck a pin in the hole
nearest to the loaf you wish to connect to, before doing the stitch about
the pin lengthen the thread of one of the workers ; sew to the leaf with
this thread, and pass the bobbin through its own. loop stick a pin in the
;

sewing hole (I trust, by the way, that this is never forgotten in doing
 ON THE BEVONIA SPEAY AND FIBRE LEAF. 23
sewings, for the work pulls dreadfully when it is), bring the thread back
to the leaf in progress, make
the stitch about the pin, wind up the bobbin,
and proceed. Now work open trefoil, joining it to the leaf spray and last ;

of all come the large leaves which formed the primary lessons. In making
these, I would recommend an extra pair being hung on to each. I pur-
posely allowed rather too few at first, as, though it makes the work coarser,
it shows the effect more clearly but the greater the number of bobbins, in
;

reason, the finer and better the lace lo-^ks. Work the lace-stitoh loaf first,
hanging on twelve pair;
connect it with the fibre
leaf at the nearest
place, take off three
pair of bobbins at the
bottom of the leaf sew ;

twice to the main stem ;

plait across it, and sew

again to the other side.
Continue with the same
bobbins for the whole
stitch leaf, but add two
pair on each side ; con-
nect this leaf with close
trefoil, and finish off at
the tip. Lastly, work
the gimp leaf, which
you will commence at
the tipcut off the
;

bobbins as the leaf

narrows to finish off,
sew twice to the main
stem, tie up all the
bobbins in the last pair
you. sewed with, then
tie separately in pairs,
and cut off.
This last leaf may be
omitted if you like, ani
when again working the
spray, you can alter
Fig. 9. Devohia Sprav.
the disposition of the
stitches in the various leaves at pleasure, It I think, one of the

great charms of Honiton lace, that you can vary according to fancy.
Of course, the edgings, like other edging laces, must be worked
in regular routine but for the sprays, you may work in whole or
;

lace stitch; make the leaves with or without a fibre; use gimp or not;
do flat or raised work at your will; and what you do once you need
not do again. You must bear in mind a few facts, namely, that whole
stitch requires one or two more pairs than lace stitch does that for the ;
24 HONITOU LACE-MAKING.
eacTi
fibreyou mnst hare an uneven number of passive pairs and that ;

eye will
gimp, as I before remarked, stands in place of a pair but your
;

It is
soon become accustomed to judge how many bobbins are wanted.
astonishing in looking over old lace, to observe how the makers
revelled m
with our
variety of detail, thereby obtaining a richness of effect, which we,
modern notions of uniformity, rarely attain.

CHAPTER VIII.

On Pearl Edge.

The subject of the present lesson will be the pearl edge, of which there are
two sorts, the right and the loft hand pearl. Those ladies who already'
know any of the edging" laces are probably acquainted with the left hand
one, therefore in this pattern I will teach the right hand, giving the other
at some future opportunity.
Hang onten pair at the end of the leaf work it in whole stitch cut off
; :

four pair, and go round the inner circle in stem, stitch ; sew as you cross
the circle, and commence the first petal of the flower. Work it in whole
stitch, hanging on two pair in successive rows, and making false pin holes
where required. The edge will be plain as usual until you have passed the
point of contact with the nest flower; then commence the pearls, turning
your pillow so that the edge which has hitherto appeared to be on your left
hand will now be on your right. The working pair (being at the inner
edge) must come straight across, and be twisted once before doing the last
stitch then without sticking a pin, make a whole stitch with the pair that
;

are lying outside the pins, pull up twist the workers seven times, to the
;

left of course; lift one of them in the left hand, taking a pin in the right,
place the pin under the thread, give a twist with your wrist to bring the
thread round the pin, run the pin up to the hole, stick it, lay down the
bobbin, and pass the other one round the pin from the lower side, i.e., the
side nearest to you, twist once make a whole stitch, again twist once, and
:

work back. You will now find that you have only two working pairs
instead of three continue in this manner, making pearl edge on one side,
;

and plain on the other to the end of the first petal, when sew twice to the
inner circle. The lowest hole at the bottom of each petal just where the
work turns, should be made in plain edge and not pearl. Work round the
middle petal, sew twice; then for the third, make seven pearls, and then
 ON PEAEL EDGE TREFOIL. 25
turn to plain edge, and in doing this, do not omit twisting the outside pail-
three times at the first stitch. As you narrow down, cut oft' a pair con- ;

nect to the leaf at the nearest place, and when you reach the inner circle
sew to it then make what is called a rope-sewing down it to the next leaf,
;

and that is done as follows lift all the bobbins but the pair you sewed
:

with, pass this pair round the others, sew to the next hole, pass the pair
round again, and so on until you reach the leaf, when disentangle the
bobbins, and hang on two pair if you work in lace stitch, three if in whole
stitch. Work down the leaf, connecting to the first petal at the nearest
point of contact at the bottom of the leaf cut off two or three pair
;

according as you have knotted threads. Make stem-stitch for two pin-
holes and repeat from the beginning, the only difference being that in all
;

Fig. 10. Pearl Ei^ge Trefoil.

the following flowers, when youcome round the third petal, you sew twice
to the preceding flower where touches. If you wish to continue this
it
edge, you must move the bobbins in the following manner turn the flap :

of the cover cloth over them, and pin the doubled cloth tightly on each
side, also pinning it to the cushion so that the threads shall be a little
slack while you take out all the pins from the finished portion.
Now detach the cloth containing the bobbins from the lower end of the
pattern, and fasten it down again at the upper end pin the last made :

trefoil and leaf down on the first, putting pins half-way up the leaf undo ;

the bobbins and continue working. The illustration shows the stitches to
use. A footing braid (see Chap, xiii.) should be added, unless this pattern
be used for edging net.
The special things to be remembered in doing right hand pearl edge are :

to put the pin under the thread to pass the second thread round the piu
;

from the lower side and to twist once before the last stitch and after the
;

first in the return row, which makes a line of demarcation between the
pearls and the body of the work, and greatly improves the effect.
 CHAPTER IX.

Eaised Woek —Needle-pin Sewings.

We have now arrived at the most difficult parts of Honiton lace, and
those which require very careful work. I give only a portion of a design in
—
this lesson a spray of leaves, to teach raised work the flower which
;

accompanies it, and which will be engraved in the next chapter, will
contain the last —
of the Honiton stitches proper the plaitings all others
;

are modifications of the stitches already described, or belong to different

laces. The raised work is the distinguishing mark of Honiton, and its
crowning glory. In no other of the English laces is it introduced, and the
value of a piece is estimated according to the amount of raised work in it.
It is the part which most tries alike the eyes and the patience ;

but by the process I have given of ending olr at the tips of leaves, it
can always be dispensed with by those who find they cannot master it
satisfactorily.
Commence at the end of the stem, Icavii-g several knots near the work,
away
to change as you pass up it, and winding the others well out of the
way. When you reach the middle leaf, change the side for the i^ins, and
continue the stem up the lower side of the leaf till you have stuck the
last pin but one. Take the passive
pair which lies next the pins ; lay it

straight back over the work, and do

one row of stem without it. At the
last pin hang on four pairs, letting them
lie down by the side of the pair you havL-

put away ; make the stitch about the

pin, and do one other ro^v of stem
stitch with the bobbins you have been
working with come back to the edge
; ;

then turn your pillow quite round, so

that the bobbins Lie down the leaf
facing you. Take out all the pins but
the last three, and work straight across
in whole stitch. The last stitch will be
done with the pair you put away tie ;

this pair once, and work back with it.

Tou will now continue working in
whole stitch, making plain edge at
Fig. 11. Spbat foh Raised WonK
one side of the leaf, and doing
sewings to the cross strands of the stem at the other. My own experience
 BAISED WORK —NEEDLE-PIN SEITINGS. 27
is,that whereas it is infinitely easier to do all connectino; sewings
with the hook, still, in a long series like thie the needle pin is prefer-
able. One must keep all the pins in down the leaf, which hamper
the hook, and cause it to get entangled in the strands. I will there-
fore give directions for doing the sewings with the needle pin but for
;

those who find the hook easier the only difference will be that the lower
securing pin must be omitted. To proceed, having worked back to the
stem side, make a sewing thus stick a securing pin in the hole below the
:

one you arc going to sew to, so that there will be a hole vacant between
two pins lay one of the working threads across this vacant space, holding
;

the bobbin in your left hand. Insert the needle pin under the lowest
strand, and insinuate the thread underneath it, which is easily done if you
hold the thread tightly down with your fore finger. Directly you have
hold of it slacken the thread, bring the needle pin over, keeping the thread
under the point then give a little sharp flick, and the thread will come
;

through in a loop draw this loop farther through, and hold it with the
;

needle pin while you put the other bobbin through it. Take out the
securing pin, stick it in the sewing hole, and work back with the pair
which made the sewing. This process is repeated every row, but when you
get near the bottom of the leaf, where there is generally a little tarn, the
hook may be used again. As the leaf narrows, cut off four pairs, choosing
of course the knotted threads.
You may, if you please, tie up all the bobbins in one pair after doing the
last sewing, and cut them off, recommencing at the next leaf ; or you may
make a rope-sewing down the stem, which saves both time and thread
to those who do not find the sewings too diificult. "When you reach the
next leaf (the uppermost one) disentangle the bobbins, and work the stem
up the upper side. This leaf is made in lace stitch, and will therefore only
require three pairs hung on at the top in all other respects the directions
;

are the same as for the first leaf. Cut off the three pairs at the bottom of
the leaf, cross the stem, but you need not make a sewing in doing so carry
;

the stem up the lower side of this leaf, hang on three pairs (or four, if you
prefer working in whole stitch), work down it as before, and at the end tie
the bobbins up in the last spwed pair, and cut off.
 CHAPTER X.

Long Plaitings.

Now we come to the plaitings, which are, as I have before mentioned,

the last of the Honiton stitchea. I do not mean to say that they
are confined exclusively to Honiton, for they are used largely in Maltese
and other laces, and the little dots in Valenciennes grounding are
made in this stitch they are Honiton stitches, par excellence, and
; still

ray instructions would not be

complete without them. There are
three sorts ; the long (sometimes called diamond when they cross one
anoiher) the square, and the broad, which latter are commonly called
cucumber plaiting.^, from a supposed resemblanca to cucumber seeds.
Plaitings are prinaipaJly used for filling the interiors of flowers,
are the last |^^^^^m^^^H|^^^B|^^^H^^^^H^H^H
the be ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H
so this
^^^^^H^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^l
The fiower must ^^^^H^^^^^PI^fH^li^^^^^^^^^^^^^^l
be made first, and the ^^^H^fV^^^G^^^^I^^^^^^^^^^^^H
directions are as follows: ^^^K^^K'^St^m^''^t^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Work a stem with five pair ^^HS^8| '^tt^^Sl^lfi^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^l
only round the outside odg-G ^^^^^K^S^P^PPt'^vPi^^^^^^^^^^^^H
of the circle, keeping the ^^^^^^^^^^^^JhI^^m^^^^^^^^^^H
on the right-hand ^^^^^fe^lHn^BH^S^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I
when you have come ^^^^^Bj^^|^^^^fe^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^|
on two ^^^^^^^^^^V^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^l
ioin the ends ; work across ^^^^^^^^^PI^i^^H^A'i .^^^^1
in whole stitch, haii,^- on ^^^^^^B^^jsfijim^^^^ ^^^^^^^M
another pair. Work round ^^^^^Rr^j^^^^H^isSlhikL "^^^^^^^H
the circle acrain in whole- ^^^^^^^^^^Hl JP^^H ^^^^^H
stitch, sewing each row ^^^^^^^^^^^^ftlvf ^^ ^^^^H
the stem as directed ^^^^^^^^^^^^^K^ ^^^_ £^^H
the Theso ^^^^^^^^^^^^B^, .. ^^^^^^^z^^^|
can be done ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Ki!|^S^^^^^^^^^^^H
the as no ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H
long straight row of pins ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^ r -nxi ^IG- 12. Large Daist.
4-
to interfere with
-^-u -J.
it. When
you haye again completed the circle, join the inner edgefe; work across, cut
off two pair, and with tho remaining pix commence ihe petals, which are
done in stem stitch. Here, again, is a slightly different process to leiirn.
You will observe that the last two holes belong equally to the petal on
each side work round the first petal until you come to these holes, stick a
;

pin in tho first, complcto the edge stitch, then lay back by the pins the
-outside pair. Work across, and, as you come back to the pins, twist thrice
 LONG PLAITINGS. 29*

the passive pair lying next tliem, and make the eclg-e stitch with these, but
do not twist the active pair which you leave lying at the pins work ;

across, sew at the inner edge to the circle, tarn your pillow, work back to
the pins where the untwisted pair is lying do not touch the pins, but work
;

across and back with this pair, and when you return to the pins, take out
the second one, sew to the hole, restick the pin, and do another row of
stem. All this is done without twisting, and you have now arrived at the
commencement of the next petal twist the outside pair thrice, stick a pin,
;

and finish the edge stitch with the pair which had been put away, thus
returning to the original six pair.
Every petal is the same, and when you have finished them sew to the
up the bobbins, and cut ofi^. Now, for the plaitings to fill up the
first, tie

centre of the flower, you will notice that there are four detached holes, and
four in a group in the middle. Stick a pin in one of the detached holes,
and hang on two pair; wind the knots thoroughly out of the way, for
nothing can be done with knots in plaiting, and the bobbins therefore-
require careful handling to avoid breaking the threads. Connect to the
flower by drawing a thread through the nearest hole, and passing one of
the other pair through it take out the pin, and stick it in the sewed hole,
;

make a whole stitch, twist each pair twice, and stick a pin in the hole
between them. I must now ask you once more to number the bobbins in
your mind, 1, 2, 3, 4 1 and 4 lie down the outsides, some distance apart,
;

3 down the middle, and 2 passes backwards and forwards under and over
them, changing from one hand to another. The theory of the stitch is
this :

—
1st row 2 over 3, and under 4.
2nd row— 2 over 4, under 3, and over 1.
—
3rd row 2 under 1, over 3, and under 4.

The two last rows are repeated until the plait is long enough. The
hands are managed thus ; —
You lift 2 with the left hand, and 4 with the
right put 2 over 3 and under 4, passing it into the fingers of the right
;

hand drop 4, and bring 2 back over it now lift 3 with the left hand, pass
; ;

2 under 3, and into the fingers of the left hand in the same manner
drop 3, take 2 over 1, lay it down on the pillow, and turn 1 over it with the
left hand once more bring it over 3 and under 4.
; Every three or four turns
pull 2 gently up to make the plait tight if in doing so you draw it in,
;

pull 1 and 4 simultaneously, which will bring it out again to its proper
size it is also as well to give a little pat to No. 3 occasionally.
; The
beauty of a plaiting consists of its being the same width all the way down
and very smooth. When you have reached the cluster of holes in the
middle, twist both pairs twice, still handling No. 2 very gently stick a pin
;

between, and leave them. Hang on two more piir at the detached hole
opposite the first, and bring another plaiting down to the centre, sticking
a pin between the pairs. Make a stitch with the two pairs that lie next
one ano'her between the pins; twist each thrice, and carrying the re-
spective twists in front of the pins, mate a stitch with each outside pair;
twist thrice, make a stitch with the two inner pairs, thus oompleting the
30 nONITON LACE-MAKING.
square, twist, stick two
pins, and continne the plaitinga. Bring the left
hand one down to the detached hole opposite it, and after sticking the pin
and making the stitch sew to the flower, tie up, and cut off; finish the
other plaiting in the same manner, and the flower will be complete. The
leaves may either be made before or after, and will be connected with the
flower by the little bit of stem. Plaiting is a rather difiicult process to master.
Ton must not try to work too quickly at first until you haye got the knack
;

hold No. 2 with the thread slack, and be careful when you draw it up, and
do not change it for any other of the bobbins. Beginners sometimes get
confused by the twist under 1, and bring back 1 instead of 2, which is
fatal. Unpick ruthlessly if your plaiting looks rough at the edges, tor
nothing spoils the effect of a spray more than bad nlaitingc;.

CHAPTER XI.

Right and Left Pearls — Cucumber Plaitengs.

This desig-n is intended as astudy of plaitings. I have put a pearl edge to

it purpose of teaching the left pearl, but I would recommend those
for the
who find a difficulty in the plaitings to work the butterfly with a plain
edge the first time, r,s the sewings are rather easier.
The body and head must be made first commence at the tail, hang
;

on seven pair and two gimps work in whole-stitch to the place where
;

the pattern narrows, when cross the gimps underneath the bobbins, and
continue the upper part of the body when you come to the head, cut off
;

two pair of bobbins, and tie up and cut off the gimps work stem round the
;

head, and sew and tie up to finish. Make a rope-sewing to where the right
hand wing begins, and hang on another pair. Work stem along the ux)per
part of the wing ;if you make a pearl edge, twist twice before the last

stitch, and after the first in the return row this is to make a more
;

decided line of demarcation, and is necessary when a pearl edge is put to

a otcm, as the stem draws up so much closer than the other stitches.
Continue the stem round the circle at the end of the wing, changing to
plain edge where it turns inside make a sewing where it joins, and tie and
;

cut off all but two pair make a stitch with these, twist twice aud stick a
;

pin between them in the nearest single hole. Fill the circle with plaitings
according to the directions given in the last chapter. Now return to the
body of the butterfly to do the close part of the wing hang on five nair
:

and two gimps, sew each outside pair to the body work in lace stitch,
;
 K£GHT AND LEFT PEARLS — CUCUMBER FLATTINGS. 31

hangring on a pair at the slanting side for six rows. When you have pasaeii
the point of junction with the lower wing, commence the pearl edge, which
will now be a left pearl ;the difference between the two is simply this in ;

the right pearl you form the loop by placing the pin under the thread, and
you carry the other thread round the pin after it is stuck from the lower
aide, moving the thread to the right first. In the left pearl you place the
pin upon the thread, find bring the bobbin over it with the left hand, then
you run this loop up to the hole, stick the pin, and bring the other bobbin
round the pin from the lower side, moving first to the left. The difference
seems slight, but it is necessary to remember it, for if the pin is put the
wrong side of the thread, or the second thread passed round the reverse
way, the edge untwists, and looks ragged. At the end of the lace stitch
part a pair should be cut off in each of the two rows before the end one,
and three pair in the end row the one side is, of course, to be joined to the
;

circle by sewdngs where they touch, a final sewing made at the end, the

b'iG. 13. Peacock Bdtterflt.

bobbins tied and cut off. For the lower wing, again commf nee at the body,
hang on sis pair, and work the band of whole stitch round the wing,
beginning with plain edge, and turning to pearl just below the tail. From
the place where the wings join, sew each row to the upper wing, dispensing
with the edge stitch on that side.
The left wing is to be done in precisely the same manner and then fill in
;

the plaitings. The diamond ones, which fill the lower wings, are done in the
maiinei' Eaready described at length. There are, of oourrfe, more of them ;

but, as the illustration will explain this, and they are all done on exactly
the same system, I will not take up your time with a repetition of instruc-
tions, but will merely mention that you commence at the upper part of the
wing, and that you will require six pair of bobbins in all.
The cucumber plaitings must now be learnt, and it is these sewings
which will be made more easily to the plain edge the first time. With
33 HONITON LACE-MAKING.
either edge tliey must be made to the cross strands, and if you have not
heen very careful with the twist to make the line of demarcation, it is a
little difhcult to find the cross strands in the stem, especially the first one

or two sewings. Hare ready nine pair with the knots wound well away
stick a pin into each pearl as far as the sewings extend, as the loops may
otherwise draw in. Hang on one pair at the second pearl, twist it four
times, and two pair at the fifth (which will be opposite a hole), make a
stitch with these last, twist twice, stick a pin, make a stitch about the pin,
twist four times; then make a plaiting with the first pair and the on»
nearest to it, leaving the third pair idle for the present. Keep No. 1 and 4
very wide apart, so as to make the plaiting a broad one, and hold No. 2
very slack. After the first two rows, draw 2 quite up, and then pull out
again with 1 and 4, this will tighten the original twist, but you must never
pull 2 again when it has passed backwards and forwards about six times,,
;

twist it with No. 1 four times (which will make 1 the outside bobbin). Sew
1 to the lace stitch, and pass 2 through it, but be very careful in handUng
2 an unwary pull to that bobbin will spoil the plaiting. Now hang on two
;

pair more opposite the next hole, make a stitch, twist twice, stick a pin,
make a stitch about it and twist four times then make another plaiting
;

with the pair which was originally left idle, and the one nearest it you :

can still call the bobbins 1, 2, 3, and 4. For this and the succeeding
plaitings, 2 must be passed to and fro eight times ; then twist four times,
and very cautiously make a stitch with 1 and 2 and the 3 and 4 of the last
plaiting, which by-the-bye should also be twisted four times. Ton may
give 3 and 4 a gentle pull, which will bring the other plaiting into place^
and pull 1, but not 2. Stick a pin, twist twice, make a stitch, twist four
times. Again, one pair may be sewn to the lace stitch, and left. Hang on
another couple of pairs at the next hole, and make a plaiting in the same
manner, securing the worker and its pair with a stitch as before.
Hang on the two remaining pair, make a plaiting ^vith one, twist the
other four times, sew it to the circle, twist four times again, which will
bring that pair down in readiness to make the securing stitch of the fourth
plaiting. There will be two more plaitings required below to fill up the
space, and when all the threads are sewn to the laee stitch, tie them up
and cut off. Commence at the farthest end of the other wing, for in these-
plaitings one pair always has to be idle until the next plaiting is fini:=hed,
and brings a pair to meet it and make the securing atitch and that pair
;

had better not be 1 and 2.

Great gentleness and care are required in doing the cucumber plaitings,
especially in handling No. 2, but you may keep a firm hand on 1, 3, and 4
the bobbins must be handled very gingerly while the securing stitch is
being made, but after the pin is stuck, and the stitch made about it, all is-
j«ife. To finish off, make the antennse with five pair, commencing at the-
head.
 CHAPTER XII.

Eaised Half-leaves — Strand Geound- -Cutting

BoBBiNS IN Pairs.

This pattern is intended to be worked with a plain edge, but a pearl can bo
put to the stem side if desired.
Commence at the knob of the stem, work with six pair round the
little
circle then to the flower.Work round the inner circle with five pair, then
do the petal« in whole-stitch, carrying a gimp round the outside hang on ;

lhree pairs in three successive rows, and cut these off as the petal narrows
on the other side. At the bottom of each pe al lay back a pair one hole
before ihe end, as directed for the daisy, and take it up again when yon
have turned the corner. When the first flower is finished, cut off the

Fig. 14. Wood Sorrel Pattern.

bobbins and hang six pair on again at the knob of the stem. For the
leaves, work round the inner circle, carry the stem down the middle of
the first leaf, and come back with whole stitch and raised work, hanging
on four pair at the too of the leaf, and cutting them off as it narrows :
make a rope sewing down the leaf at the back of the stem where ;

the leaf parts work stem, hang on four pair, and finish the leaf in
lace stitch. Work th; two other double leaves in the same way,
making a rope-sewing on the circle to the place each starts from
finally cut off the bobbins. It will improve the centre of the flower
and the circle to have a cucumber plaiting in them to form a spot,
34 HONTTON LACE-MAKING.
this is not piveD in the design, aB it can very well be omitted. If yon
pac it in, you must do it take two pair, sew them at opposite sides of
thus :

the top of the circle, twist each four times make a plaiting", keeping- it
;

broad, and well in the middle, twist four times again, and sew the strands
to corresponding opposite places at the bottom of the circle eew No. 1
;

and put 2 very gently through it, then sew 3 and 4, tie both pairs,
first,

and cut off. If you cannot manage this sort of plaiting satisfactorily, it
will easily cut out again.
Four of these lengths would make either a head-dress, or the end of a
neck-tie with the Devonia Spray in the centre. In the first case, they
;

should be arranged in an oval shape in the second, as a square work

; ;

single flowers i'or the corners, or for the turn of the oval. Tack the sprays
firmly on blue paper, the right side downwards, and do the grounding.
There are various ways of gi-ounding Honiton, both on the pillow, and with
the needle. I will give the pillow groundings first, and the easiest is what
ia called " strand ground." It is done with one pair of bobbins, which are
i^ewn to one edge, twisted as much as necessary, and sewn to the opposite
side. The strands had better be arranged quite irregularly, and it will be
as well to draw on the paper first where they are to come When you cross
another strand sew as you pass, and when you do not wish to start from
the place you have last sewn to, twist the threads, and carry them over the
lace to the next point of departure being at the back of the lace this will
;

not show on the other side, but be careful not to pull the strands so as to
pucker the sprays.
As this pattern involves a great deal of cutting off bobbins, I will here
teach a mode of doing it which will tie them in pairs, ready for hanging on
again, and wiU save time and trouble in consequence. Lift the pair to be
tied in the left hand, and place the scissors, closed, under the threads,
which bring round over them then turn the scissor points facing the
:

pillow, open them as wide as you can, and draw the upper threads in
between them if you get them in as high up as the hinge, and then close
;

the scissors gently, the threads will not be cut. Now draw the scissors
down out of the encircling threads, and you will find a loop come through
on one point of the scissors snip this, and the bobbins will be tied
;

together.
 '>':^^^

CHAPTER XIII.

Headings and Footings.

In order to keep the instructions on a

level, I must give very simple ones
m this chapter. When
elaborate sprays and edgings have been made,
they need the assistance of braids, otherwise called footings, and small
edgings (or headings), in putting them together to make collarettes, ties,
_ &c. These braids and
edgings are very cheap,
and can easily be bought
by those who do not like
the drudgery of making
them ; but some ladies
Fig. 15. Plain Braid.
prefer doing the whole of
their work themselves, and I will therefore explain a few of the simplest
forms of headings and footings. There are larger and more elaborate sorts,
which will be described, with the special designs to which they belong :

N^o. 1. Plain braid needs no further description than that it is made with
eight pair of bobbins in
whole stitch and piain
edge.
Open braid re-
No. 2. —
twelve pair ; one
quires
row of stem is made on
each side, then (the work-
ing bobbins being at the inner edge) twist each pair twice, make a
stitch, stick a pin in the centre hole, twist twice, and make the stitch
about the pin, then twist twice again, and once more work stem on
each side for the space of two holes, when repeat the centre stitch.
—
No. 3. Cucumber braid
is wider, but does not
need more bobbins, five
pair and a gimp being
sufficient on each side,
.
if a plain edge is made
1-iG. 17. CucuMBEn BicAiD. ^^^ jf ^^^ ^^^^ -^ pearled,
only four pair and a gimp on that side. This braid requires more
detailed description than the others, as it contains what is called the
inner pearl stitch. Hang on the two sets of bobbins, the gimps being
on the inside. Begin at the plain edge first, work into the middle,
c 2
36 HONITON LACE-MAKIKG.

pass the gimp and mate the inside pearl by twisting the working pair
six times, sticliing a pin into the inside hole, and working back with
the same pair. Eeturn to the middle, twist the working pair twice, then
work the other side in the
same manner, only making
a pearl edge. Fill 'the
centre with a cucumber
plaiting, and when you
have finished it, twist 1
^'°- !»• ^^'^^ '^'"=^-
and 2 twice, stick a pin in
the pillow to hold those threads steady, while you twist 3 and 4, and work
back to the edge with them then carry 1 and 2 to the other edge. Make
;

the inside pearls as before, and continue until a sufficient length is made.
For the headings the simplest one is what is called the bead edge it is ;

made with seven pair and a gimp which runs along the plain edge side at ;

the end of each bead head twist the gimp twice round all the bobbins but
the two pair lying at the
plain edge.
The shamrock edge is
made with six pair ;

work down the upper

part of the left hand
lower leaf in lace stitch.
making a pearl edge to
the point of contact with
the next pattern, turn
the pillow, and do the
other half of the leaf
in whole stitch, sewing SHAMEOCK PATTEfiW.
every row in the middle,
except the first, which will be secured by taking up the idle working pair
]ying at the pins. Work the middle leaf in the same way, doing the whole
stitch part first, and putting a pearl to both sides ; then work the third
leaf, doing the lower side first, and pearling the upper part of the leaf.
As there are not quite bo many holes down the middle as on each side,
a false pin hole will be required at the top, and that will bring the bobbins
round neatly.
Work stem to the next pattern, and repeat. It will improve this pattern
to make a small inner circle.
 CHAPTER XIV.
Wild Eose Pattben — Innee Peabl — Eaibed Fiehes.

THiiy pattern, which forms a very pretty edge to a tucker, or border for a
hardkerchief, affords a good opportunity of practising raised work, and
also teaches another method of doing leaves in halves.
Commence work the inner circle with five
at the flower, pair, then do the
petals, either open as in the design, or close, sewing each row to the
edge of the circle, and making the petals alternately in whole and laee
Stitch, this latter work has the best effect eight oair and a gimp will be
;

required, lastly fill in the plaitings. There is an error in the engraving

as to the pearls, they are better put at ihe flower side of the pattern, and
6he straight edge can be sewn to a braid or footing net. Work down the
stem with six pair and round the knob. This is for the first pattern the ;

suceseding ones will commence at the knob. After passing it work stem

Pig. 20. Wild Eose Edgikc.

till you reach the leaves. leaf touching the flower must be
The small
made firstcarry ateoa up the side, and come back in whole stitch with
;

eight pair, connecting to the fiower at the point of contact. Next work
the large leaf in the same way with ten pair. Cut off four pair at the
end, and work the stem to the end leaf cut off a pair, and continue the
;

stem down the middle of the leaf hang on two pair, turn the pillow, and
;

work the half -leaf in whole stitch and raised work. At the bottom of the
leaf cross the stem, cut off a pair, turn the pillow again, and do the
other
half in lace stitch. Cut off another pair at the tip, and work the fibre
stem down the other leaf, turn at the bottom, and work it in the same
manner, and with the same number of bobbins. When you have finished
it continue the stem with six pair to the
next flower, which work in the
same manner as the first, cutting off the bobbins at the end. Then fasten
 38 HONITON LACE-]\rAKING.
on six pair at the atem and do the two lower leaves, the larg-e^^t first,
joining it at the tip to the other, tie up and cut off at the end of the little
leaf. Lastly, work the four middle leaves. If you do them in raised work you
mxist fasten on at the main stem, and make each couple separately, joining-
their tips with a sewingf but you may, if you please, work them with a gimp,
;

in which case you will hang on seven pair, and a gimp at the tip of the end
leaf, join it to the flower, and work in lace stitch ; hang on two more pair
for the centre leaves, work straight across, cut off two pair for the last
leaf, join it to the flower with two sewings, and cut off.
I will now give some small sprays, which will be found useful for filling-

up vacant places, convey a lesson to be applied afterwards

and each shall
in large flowers. First in this lime blossom I will teach the continuous
inner pearl. Hang on ten pair and two gimps at the tip of the hollow leaf,
and do whole stitch to the place where the opening begins work to the ;

centre, stick a pin in the top hole, hang a pair of gimps round it, twist the
two pair of working bobbins twice,
make a stitch about the pin, and I

work first down one side of the |

opening and then do-wn the other.

The stitch at the inside edge is the |

inner pearl, for which I gave direc-

tions in the cucumber braid, but to 1

«ave the trouble of referring back, I

will recapitulate. You work to the |

inner gimp, pass it through the >

pair, twist the workers six times,

stick a pin, pass the gimp through ^^^- 21- L™e Blossom.

again, and work back. When both sides are finished all but the lowest
hole, the two working pairs will meet in the middle make a stitch, stick
;

a pin, tie the gimps and cut them off, and let one of the working pairs
merge into the passive bobbins. Finish the leaf, cut off all but six pair,
work round the circle, and do the second leaf in raised work and lace
stitch.
The next pattern, the half butterfly, gives the inner pearl without a
gimp. Do the body first, beginning at the tail five pair and two gimps
;

will be required. Cut off the gimps at the head, hang on three more pair,
and work the antennee with four pair each. Now hang on six pair at the
body, work up the upper wing, hang on four
pair, and come back with whole stitch, work-
ing the inner pearl as in the foregoing
pattern. At the bottom cut off all but six j

pair work stem from the lowest part of the

;
'

other wing for seven holes, then hang on a

pair at each hole for four holes, which new
pairs are not to be worked in, but to lie
back by the pins. When you reach the point
of junction with the other wing, sew to it,
^''''- ^^^^ butterfly. "
then work straight across in whole stitch, bringing in the added pairs,
H
H
P3
O
J
o
o

<1
 DAISY COLLARETTE — BKANCHING FIBRES — HONITON GROUND. 41

which must each be twisted twelve or fourteen times. The work will look
coarse at first, but will draw into place as the wing- narrows.
This next lesson will show the first and easiest method of putting* raised
centres to leaves, which is called the " centre fibre." Hang on five pair at
the stem, work up the middle of the first leaf; when you have stuck the
last pin, work to the turning stitch and back, then with the pair lying at
the pins, make a rope sewing, and this which Is
termed a "return rope" is made, not upon the
stem, as in former instances, but at the back of it.
Work the two next fibres in the same manner,
the middle one last, and when you have finished
each, run a pin to its head in the end hole and
take out the rest. Now carry raised work to
the tip of the middle leaf, hang on two pair, work
back in whole stitch, and when you come across
the fibre, take out the pin, stick it three or four
holes lower down, insert the hook into the top hole, and make a sewing
with the centre stitch of your work to the cross strand, this will secure
the fibre, and you can now work over it. The other leaves may be done
in the same manner or you may omit the raised work, and hang on nine
;

pair at the tip of each, working either whole or lace Btitch, and cutting
off neatly where they join the stem.

CHAPTER Xy.

Daisy Collarette — Branching Fibres — Honiton G-round.

The flowers for the edge of this collarette are made accordiDg to the
daisy pattern in chapter 10 ;but they can be worked more quickly if a
gimp is substituted for the raised work round the inner circle. In that
case stick two pins at the starting point, one at each edge, hang four
pair on to the inside pin, and four pair and a gimp on the outside one ;

work round, connect to each of these places, and then continue as before
directed, pearling the edges where it is indicated on the pattern. The
little connecting stems are worked afterwards; but a variety may be
made, and a deeper scallop given to the edge, by leaving out these stems,
and pearling each daisy to the point where it joins the nest.
The centre spray shows a different mode of doing the leaves, with open
work and branching fibres, which have an elegant effect, and are easily
done. Commence at the lowest leaf, hang on five pair at the top of the
main fibre, and work stem down it; at the bottom of the leaf hang on
 i2 UOiVlTON LACE-MAKING.

another pair, and work the band all round it in whole stitch, joining the
middle fibre as you pass it at the top. Now carry the band round one
of the adjoining- leaves, cutting off a pair when you return to the bot-
tom of the leaf work the fibre stem up it, join to the band, and cut ofi'.
;

The branching fibres are done in this manner :Sew a pair to the
band, near the top of the leaf, twist the threads slanting downwards,
and sow to the middle slant upwards again with a twisted strand,
;

and sew to the opposite band keep twisting the threads, bring them
;

down over the work, sew to the edge, then slant to the centre again, and
so on. The two other leaves are worked in the same manner, but the
large one will require seven pair round the band. The flower is so plainly
shown in the illustration, that I need not waste many words in describing
it: the calyx is done with raised work ; the outside petals in stem atitch,
and the inside ones edged both sides. Bound the neck the collarette
is edged with the shamrock and the plaiting braid ; the little band on

each side of this braid is done with five pair, and the centre tilled in with
cross plaitings.
The grounding for this collarette is the one that is most commonly used
tor the best Honiton lace, and is called the Honiton ground. The stitch is
merely stem done with four pair and with a pearl edge, worked iu squares.
Do all the lines one way first, and then the cross bars, making a
sewing as you cross each line these sewings are very easy, you merely
;

Iraw the loop underneath the line to be sewn to, and pass the other through
it. When you rcaah the lace, make a rope sewing, .or plait beginner's stem
to the next line, where practicable but if you must cut off the bobbins
;

fasten "with two sewings, and tie up.

If you are arranging a piece of lace to be grounded in this stitch,
you should rule blue paper in squares first. Tack your sprays on face
downwards, pin the paper on the pillow, aud work along the lines.

CHAPTER XVI.

Ivy Leap Pattern^Open Bead Braid — Net Ground.

The particular points to be noticed in this pattern are the braid and
grounding, the leaves and flowers being very easily described. The middle
spray, the heart's-ease, is to be made first, and you begin with the flower.
Work the inside circle, then the lowest petal, the inner edge of which will
 I\'Y LEAl' PATTERN OPEN BEAD BRAID — NET GROUND, 4hJ

require a false pin-hole at every stitch this petal will require ten pair and
;

a gimp. The two upper petals are done in raised work ten pair in the
;

whole stitch one, and nine pair in the lace stitch. Then do the stems with
their leaves and buds, which need not be particularised, and lastly the side
petals of the flower. Hang- on eight pair and a gimp at the point where
the lowest petal Joins it, and work in lace stitch, finishing at the corner
oi the upper petal then work the little bit of stem to the main stalk. The
;

ivy leaves are made with a fibre-stem, a band round in whole stitch,
and fibres in Devonia stitch. The footing braid which is called open
bead, is done with twelve pair stem is worked on each side to the
;

place where they join, when the outside pair works straight across and
back again, after which the sides diverge once more. I have grounded this
pattern in the net ground in order to teach both the pillow and the needle
net, though the latter is more used for grounding Honiton lace than the
former I will give the pillow-made net first. It is worked diagonally, and
;

if possible you should begin at a corner, hanging on a pair at each place

where a line touches the pattern and as you hang on your bobbins twist
;

them three times. The stitch itself is extremely simple put the middle :

left-hand bobbin over the middle right, thus changing the pairs stick a ;

pin where the threads cross, twist each pair three times work thus to the
j

end, then back again. It is very difficult to keep this ground quite as even as
machine made net, therefore it is advisable not to have a large unbroken
stretch of it and it is here that the smaller sprays come in so usefully, to
;

spot about and fill up large vacant spaces. If you are arranging lace to be
net grounded, I would advise its being done upon tinted paper, but not
blue, as the small lines hardly show distinctly enongh upon that colour.
The lines must be drawn diagonally very evenly, and about the 16th of an
inch apart if they are wider more twists will be required.
;

For the needle grounding you had bettor tack the sprays on blue or
green paper it saves the eyes to work over colour, and no lines need be
;

drawn tack them face upwards and then back the paper with toile
;

ciree or stout brown holland. It is quite necessary to begin this ground in

a comer, as the holes do not otherwise pull into proper sexagon shape.
Fasten your thread to the lace, insert the needle at about the distance of
l-16th of an inch bring it out as for Brussels stitch, but twist the thread
;

once round it, so as to make a twisted strand at the end of each row
;

fasten to the lace with a tight stitch, and sew over and over back again,
putting two twists into each loop sew down the edge the proper distance
;

and repeat.
If you wish a lighter effect, you may make the stitches wider apart and
twist the thread twice round the needle.
 CHAPTEE XVII.

Lily Lappet —Pistils — Strands — Centres —^Leaves with

Eeveese Folds.

To work this la,ppet, you must commence at the lowest group of leaves,
the first beinof the one showing the reverse side of the leaf. Begin at
the root with six pair and two gimps, liang on a pair at alternate sides
for four rows add two inside gimps at the commencement of the open
;

centre, or hollow, and work do^Ti each side, the inside edge being plain
or inner pearl, according to fancy. As you near the turn, cut off to six
pair, work stem down the reverse fold, add one pair and return with lace
stitch; when this is finished, cut off all but two pair and fill in the plaitings.
Now begin the middle leaf at the tip with six pair and two gimps, hang
on a pair each row, so as to have twelve pair in all at the broadest
part of the leaf; add the inside gimps at the hollow, and work down
each side at the bottom tie up and cut off the inside gimps, and five pair
;

of the bobbins, thus leaving seven pair and two gimps.

Fasten down five pair and the gimps by running a couple of pins
by the threads, slanting crosswise, then turn the pillow, and with
the remaining two pair fill in the centre plaitings. Then return again
to the bobbins which are left at the bottom, and work up one side of
the third leaf and down the other, join to the middle leaf, and cut off
all the bobbins. Hang on two pair at the bottom, and do the plaitings.
For the back leaves hang on six pair at the tip, and increase each row up
to ten pair the open centre is done by twisting the workers as you
;

pass to and fro, giving an extra twist each time.

The lowest bnd is next in order; and, as the two other large buds are
done in precisely the same manner, one description will suffice for
all. Commence at the tip of the centre fibre, and work to the leaf ;

come back to the bud with a rope sewing, and work the middle petal in
halves. Ten pair will be required at the broadest part of the whole stitch
side, and eight pair the lace-stitch then work the lowest side-petal, begin-
;

ning with six pair and hanging on two pair in successive rows where
it turns down work the half leaf to the tip, cut off three pair, and do
;

the littlereverse half in lace stitch, cutting off all the bobbins at the
finish. Hang on five pair for the other side petal, and work it in the same
way.
The lily is commenced at the oval of one pistil with five pair, work round
it, join the edges, continue down
the stem, round the inner circle, up
the other pistil, and finish off at the oval. Now begin at a side leaf, hang
on six pair, and work to the reverse fold, turn and come back with laoe
 LILY LAPPET — PISTILS — STEANDS — CE>iTXlES, ETC. 47

^itito'h, adding- three pair; the upper half of the leaf is done with raised
work and whole stitch, and ten pair will be required. Cut off fonr pair
as you near the bottom, sew to the circle for a couple of holes, then
be^in the middle petal. Work it in halves, with inner pearl down the
centre hang on a pair each time you return to the slanting edge until
;

you have twelve pair if you are working the whole stitch aide, or ten
pair the lace stitch, then cut off as gradually down to six pair, and as you
turn at the point you must put a pin twice into the same hole as in false
pin-holes this may have to be repeated twice or three times, according to
;

the closeness of the holes increase and decrease in the same manner
;

on the other side. When you hang fresh bobbins on in lacestitch it is

not done immediately before sticking the pin, as in whole stitch, but
before doing the streak-stitch, or passing the gimp, as one continuous
line should run down by the pins. Work the other side petal like the
first, and then the first back one in raised work and whole stitch this ;

will require fourteen pair at its utmost width, and as you pass over the
pistil connect to each side of the oval. Cut off all at the bottom, hang
on six pair where the leaves part, and in other respects work the leaf
as the last. Then do the reverse folds in lace-stitch, hanging on seven
pair at the tip, and when you reach the body of the petal, sew two
pair to each hole, tie up, and cut off.
Next do the piece of stalk which runs from the leaves to the flower,
with five pair and two gimps. For the bud opposite the lily, hang on
nine pair and two gimps at the centre tip, work the petal in lace stitch,
and the aide ones as directed for tho large buds. Now carry the main
stalk up to the drooping unopened bud, which is worked in halves, a^
shown in the engraving.
There now remains a half-blown bud and a closed one for the former ;

hang on bobbins at all the tips, seven pair and two gimps at the centre,
and six pair at each of the side ones bring them down to the point of junc-
;

tion, then work straight across with lace-stitch inside the gimps and
whole-stitch outside ; at the bottom bring the stalk down to the main one
and then do the little end bud.
There are certain rudimentary instructions which I no longer think it
necessary to give, as, if my pupils have penetrated thus far into the mys-
teries they do not require continual recapitulations of tho A B C of
the art; such as turning the pillow with tho work, sewing to the cross
strands in raised work, and to the outer ones where lines touch ending (as ;

a general rule) with two sewings, one on each side, and always tying up at the
finish doing rope upon the stem, except where return rope is mentioned,
;

when it is brought at the back of it.

Also, I need not mention for the future, that where edges slant bobbins
should beaddel or decreased gradually, or that inner gimps should be tied
up when they are cut off. The next chapter will describe the border and
ground of this lappet.
 CHAPTER XVIII.

Scallop Boeder — Detonia Gbound- -BBANCHINa

FiBEE Leaves.

The border to the lily lappet, of which the illustration is given in the
frontispiece, is very easily and quickly worked. It contains no point of
any special interest, and a very few words will suffice for its description.
Five pair and two gimps are all the bobbins necessary. Begin with the
stem of the oval, then add the gimps and work the lace stitch cut off the ;

gimps, and do the pearled scallops, which will bring you to the commence-
ment of the next pattern. They are all done alike, and the plaitings are
put in afterwards. The flower which finishes ofi the bottom of the lappet
need not be described. The lappet end only is here illustrated, but of
course the scallop borders can be prolonged to any length required.
We now come to the description of the Devonia ground, so called because
it is a variation of the Honiton ground of my own devising, and which,
with, perhaps, the blind partiality of a parent, I venture to think very
pretty. It is worked thus fasten four pair to the lace at the commence-
:

ment of a line. First

row :work stem, the
turning stitch being on
the left side. Cecond
row work back and make
:

a pearl on the right side.

Third row work to the
:

turning stitch, left side.

Fourth row : make a

turning stitch to the
right. Fifth row make :

a pearl to the left. Sixth

row :turning stitch to
the right. Seventh row Devonia Geound.
:

turning stitch to the left

and, eighth row, a pearl to the right again. Thus a pearl is made every
third row, on alternate sides, which is capital practice for the right
and left pearls. The more irregularly the lines are arranged the better,
and when a fresh one starts from that you are working, hang on four
more pair before doing a pearl stitch, and leave them behind while yoa
continue the original line sometimes three or four sets of bobbins are
:

left behind in this manner, and carried on afterwards in diiferent direc- -

 SCALLOP BORDER — DEVONIA GHOTJND — BKANCHING HBRE LEAVES. 49

tions ; when you

cross a line, sew to it as you do in the Honiton ground.
Fasten off very carefully, and, wherever you can, make a rope-sewing to
the commencement of the next line. In hanging on the bobbins carefully
avoid pulling the lace, and in order not to do so, you should not only
stick a securing pin on each side the hole to be sewn to, but also one or
two on the opposite side of the lace then make two sewings into one hole,
;

hanging on two pair at each.

Having finished the lily lappet, the next subject which must engage our
attention isthe close leaf, with branching fibres.
leaf shown here is part of a large spray, which will be described
The
in the next chapter and I would recommend those who are not yet
;

expert at sewings to work this leaf by itself, both in whole and lace stitch,
by way of practice. Tou will com-
mence with the stem, and work to the
first fibre
; then leave two pair, and
work the fibre with four pair, coming
back with return rope do the opposite
;

fibre in the same manner, then con-

tinue the main stem, taking up the
bobbins that are left. When you
have reached the top of the leaf, hang
on a pair, turn and work down over
the fibres, connecting to the tip of
each as you pass it, and twice or thriee
to the main stem. If you do the

leaf in whole stitch, hang on a pair

Leaf with Bkanching 1'ibbes in every other row, till you have sixteen
Close Woek. pair ; but for lace stitch, add the extra
false pinholes will be
bobbins more slowly up to fourteen pair. Several
required on the lower side of the leaf.
You may, if you please, vary
the foUowing method Carry the
this style, and work the leaf in halves, by
:

of the tip ; cut off two

main stem straight up the leaf, stopping just short
pair, and come back either with return
rope or return stem, which is stem
fibres are worked on this
sewn to the back of the first one the branching
;

and work the upper half of the leaf, sewing to

stem. At the bottom turn
to the tips of the fibres of
the cross strands of the middle stem and
sewing to the same stra,nds The
course and then down the lower haK,
;

upper half will require nine pair in whole, or eight m

lace stitch; th
lace stitch.
lower half seven pair in whole, and six in
All my directions have been given for
No. 9 thread. K
finer thread is

used, an extra pair of bobbins should

be added for each degree of fineness.
No would require three more pairs than JNo. J.
12, for instance,
 CHAPTEE XIX.

^AJi^LLTA Sprays — S^qqake Plaitings.

The directions for niakiup;' *i]ie lower leaves of this spray P'ere given m
the last chat;tei*, but in working it as a wliole the flower is the first part
to be done. It is oommenced in the middle with six pair and a gimp,
work round the inside petals, then add a pair, and work ronnd again,
sewing to one edge, th&n lound again, changing the stitch as shown in
the design, add another pair for the outside petals.
When you have finished the last, cut off the gimp and two pair, and
work the fibre stem down the front leaf at the tip hang on four pair,
;

which fasten down on the pillow, and leave. Turn and come back the
whole stitoh side with the sis pair you have been working with, increasing
gradually to eight when you reach the flower sew two pair to each pin-
;

hole, tie up and cut ofP. Keturn to the tip, work in lace stitch, increasing
gradually to sis pair then make a rope sewing to the next leaf, work the
;

half as far as the reverse fold, wiien turn and come back, finishing at the
flower as before hang on seven pair at the tip and do the reverse fold.
;

The third leaf you commence at the flower, sewing two pair to each pin-
hole for four holes, work the leaf in halves, finishing at the flower. Lastly,
fill in the centre with square plaitings, they require great care in the
working as there is no securing stitch between them'; the threads are to
be twisted twice, instead of four time?, an(i to keep No. 2 from pulling,
lay that bobbin with its fellow back on the pillow, resting them against
a couple of pins, so that the threads are slack, while you make the next
square with 3 and 4 and the pair nearest to them. These plaitings are
alwnys worked in slanting lines.
Now begin at the stalk, hanging on eight pair at the tip of the tiny leaf,
and cut off a pair as you turn the corner work up as far as the reversed
;

leaf, hang on five pair, and, leaving six bc^hind to carry on the stalk mth
afterwards, work stem along the upper part of the right side of the leaf.
and the lowerof the reverse fold; comeback with eight pair, first in lace, and
then in whole stitch, cut off. Continue the stalk to the top bud carry the
;

stem round one side, and across the top of the calyx add a pair, and work
:

the bud in halves, connecting the first row to the middle hole of the stem.
Out off when you have finished the calyx, and hang on again at the main
stalk for the other bud. This is done as delineated, but at the turn of the
stem, where the bud springs from the calyx, there shouM be a pin-hole at
the inside edge instead of the turning stitch, which will bring the inner
edge into a peak. The three small l(?aves need no description.
Next comes the largest half opened flower ; begin at the bottom of the
lowest petal, and work the three middle ones in raised work and lace stitch ;
 CAMELLIA SPRAY. 51

they will require eight pair each then do the whole stitch back petals,
;

hanging on eight pair at the tip of each.

Now begin at the tip of the lowest calj'x leaf with six pair, work that and
the middle one, then up the outside petal in whole stitch, and do the open
back petals, passing the threads across the one closed petal in a plait.
Fin.ally do the third calyx leaf, then the calyx, for which you will require
nine pair, as you must work over the middle leaf, and sew to the raised
work strands. Cut ofc three pair and work stem to the main stalk, cross it,
and do the hollow leaf, which fill in with plaitings. The other half opened

Camellia Spray.

flower you commence at the tip of the middle calyx leaf, then do tlie two
middle petals, working one over the calyx leaf, which connect at the tip as
you cross, then the calyx and the stem to the main stalk. Return to the
flower, work the upper calyx leaf, and up the side petal, then the open back
petals, down the lower side of the flower, and finish with the third calyx leaf.
Tliestalk of the flower is then added, and finally the branching fibreleaves,
which have been already described, are ''orked, which finishes the spray.
 CHAPTER XX.

Needle Grounds — Star and Dame Joan Stitches.

In this chapter I shall give two examples of needle grounds ; for

ladies who cannot make the lace itself will nevertheless find it very
interesting to arrange sprays according to their fancy, and ground
them by hand. To the minds of those who are used to work point
lace a number of stitches doubtless present themselves, which
will
may bo used for this purpose but I shall content myself with describing
;

the Star and Dame Joan grounds, both of which being as yet unpublished
stitches, I cannot be accused of plagiarism. The Star ground has, it is
true, very much the effect of one of the Medici stitches in Mrs. Mee's
"Point Lace Sampler," but it is worked in a different manner, and is, I
think, a little easier to do.
The best thread for grounding is No. 9 any fine needles may be used,
;

but the pleasantest to work with are the long pointless ones. Tack the
sprays, as directed for needle-net, on coloured paper or calico, stoutly
backed. It is preferable to work these stitches on the right side, as is
usually done in point lace but they can with equal ease be worked on the
;

wrong side, the only difference* being that the order of the double Brussels
stitch must be reversed.
VoT the Star Ground commence on the left hand, at the space of one pin-
hole down the side of the work. Make a buttonhole stitch at the distance
of one-eighth of an inch, then a second close to it, thus Put the needle up
:

through the lace from behind, and bring it down under the thread. This
is called double Brussels, and has much the effect of a tatting stitch.
Make another double stitch one-eighth of an inch off, and so on to the end
of the row. Work down the •side to the next pinhole, carry the thread
across and fasten it, work down the side again and then repeat the first
;

row, making double Brussels stitches into each loop, working over the
stretched thread so as to fasten it in. The Star Ground is best used for
grounding skeleton leaves or very open sprays.
The Dame Joan Ground is an old stitch, which was formerly used a good
deal for grounding open laces. It is rather troublesome to work, and also,
I fear, to describe intelligibly but I will do my best as to the latter. It is
;

of a sexagon shape, with a double thread everywhere like the net, it ia

;

essential to begin it in a corner, otherwise it works in straight lines, and

will not pull down to the sexagon. Fasten your thread to the side, and
make a loose stitch nearly a quarter of an inch off. If you now analyse
 NEEDLE GROUNDS— STAR AKD DAME JOAN STITCHES. 53
this atitch, you two threads, one running- up
will perceive that there are
to the lace, the other coming down from it, the needle being on the latter
insert the needle between these threads, and make a tight stitch on the
first, that ia, on the thread belonging to the loop just made. This makes
the double thread on one side of the stitch continue to the end (if you
;

have more stitches than one), fasten the thread iirmly, and work back.
For the return row, make a double Brussels stitch into the centre of each
loop, and also over the tight stitch between the two threads, and you will

Stae. Ground. Dame Joan Grotjitd.

then find that you have doubled the threads on all sides. In each suc-
ceeding row you must work into the double Brussels stitch in the centre of
each loop, which pulls it down to the required shape. Dame Joan stitch
must be worked firmly, and with a steady hand, it looks untidy if the
thread is too loose, and an unwary jerk puts it out of place ; when well
done, it has an extremely elegant effect.
 CHAPTER XXI.

Speat of Feen.

Havinu exhausted the ordinary stock of Honiton stitches, I will now

commence mode of doing several which were formerly
to describe the
introduced into the old Devonshire and Flemish laces, hut have for the
most part fallen out of use in England the reason being, as I believe,
;

thit in olden days people bestowed more time and thought than they do
now. Whether one looks at old carving, embroidery, lace, or any other kind
of ornamental handiwork, dating from before the middle of the last century,
the same reflection arises that it was more individualised, and that the
maker got more ijleasure out of his or her work, and took more pains to
follow out special fancies than is done nowadays, when everything is made
in the fever of competition, andquickness of result is the grand desideratum.
Naturally, by the doctrine of selection, the more deUcate and difficult de-
scriptions of work disappear, and those only survive which can be done
quickly, and have a fair general effect.
In puzzling out these old stitches with lace-makers, I have been more
than once met with the remark, " This would never pay to work ;" as, how-
ever, my instructions are principally for the benefit of those who make lace
for their own pleasure, and do not so much care about its " paying," I pro-
pose to revive some of the old modes of working, and infuse more variety
into Honiton lace than it at present possesses.

— —
In the following lesson the fern spray no new stitch is taught, but it
affords good practice for the centre fibre, a process which it wiR be best to
master thoroughly before commencing "tracery," which will form one of
the succeeding lessons. Commence at the small curled frond, hanging on
eight pair at the centre tip work round, sewing to one edge as long as the
;

curl lasts hang on another pair where the spray turns at the bottom pearl
; ;

one edge to the place where the small leaves begin to unfold then make
;

both edges plain and work round to the centre of the frond, cutting three
pair off by degrees when you reach the middle, return with the small
;

opening leaves, making the first one plain, and doing the others with raised
work. Make a very neat beginner's plait between each of the tiry leaves,
and be careful to sew to the edge at the beginning and end of each you ;

must also fasten the tip of the leaves to the opposite edge. "When you
have finished the leaves, tie up and cut off. Now hang on six pair at the
place where the narrow stem of the smaller leaf commences, work to the
SPEAY OF FEEN.
 LESSONS IN TRACERY— EMPEHUll BUITEiU'LY. 57
tip; asyou approach the end of the leaf, hang on another pair, and in order
to work it in without increasing the width of the stem, pass the extra
threads between the pair you are working with, without making a stitch.
At the end, turn the pillow, sew a pair to the last hole in order to make
the third working pair, and come back in whole stitch, sewing to the
centre fibre as you work across one way, but not to the return row. The
SIX smaU leaves at the end are done in halves,
the remainder of the
leaves with the fibre. As they prrow larger and require more pairs, cast on
two or three in the process of working the stem, passing the threads
through as before directed any other pairs that may be required must be
;

hung on at the edge in the usual way. The largest leaves will require
about thirteen pairs, as the beauty of the spray depends on the closeness
of the work. Plait the threads very neatly between each leaf, cutting off
to six pair, of course. Pearl one edge of the wide stalk at the bottom of
the leaf sew each row to the other frond where they touch, work up the
;

stem of the large leaf, and proceed in the same manner as the smaller one.

:; . ^^ CHAPTER XXII. : '

'

Lessons on Tracery — Emperor Butterfly.

This little butterfly will illustrate the proeess of " trat3ery," or a pattern
worked over a background of whole or lace-stitch. It was extensively
used in the old Honiton lace, and gives a very rich effect it is not difficult,
;

but is a little troublesome to do, and of course takes longer time.

Begin at the tail, hang on eight pair and two gimps work in whole ;

stitch, crossing the gimp at the narrow part, tie them and cut off at the
finish of the head. Add two more pairs so as to have five pair for each of
the antennge finish them at the tips with two sewings, cut off. Now hang
;

on five pair at the small ring in the lower wing work round it, joining
;

where it touches, then down to the body add another pair, and work stem
;

round the inside edge of the lower wing, sewing to the body for the first
three or four rows. When you have come round the wing to the body again,
sew once, carry the " trace," as it is called, round the oval in the upper
wing, then round the inner edge of the wing to the place where it joins the
lower one sew as you cross the trace, and hang on four more pairs, ao as
;
58 IIONITON LACE-MAK.1NG.

to hive five on each side for the cucumber plaitings, which are done in this
way. Do a row of stem on each side, and when the working pairs come
int the middle again, make a encumber plait when finished, turn No. 2
) ;

bobbin back over the pillow, supporting- it with a pin to keep it from
slipping; work the stem rows with 3 and 4, and then the plait will not
puil up when you work with 1 and 2. Make four of these plaitings, joining
the little ring to the edge as you pass it. It is a general rule that all edges
must be connected where they touch, so I need not repeat the direction each
time. "When you have finished the plaiting cut off five pair, and bring
the remaining ones back in a zig-zag trace cut off. Fasten on ten pairs to
;

do the cucumber plaitings in the upper wing, and when completed you
111 ly fill up the vacant f^pace, either as in the illustration, with two zig-zag

traces that cros.s each other, ormth long plaitings, which v ill be easier.
Having done both wings in this manner, you now fill up the back ground.
Hang on eight pair to the upper end of the large wing, and work in lace
stitch, sewing to each side add a pair at each pewing for sis turns. As
;

there will be the most holes on the lower side of the wdng, you must
occasionally sew twice into the same hole the upper side you will find the
;

needle pin better for these sewings than the hook. Cut off three or four
pair as you narrow down to the body then turn and fill in the lower wing,
;

adding the pairs again sew securely at the finish. Now cast on five
;

pair at the head, and work the outer edge, pearling all round.
 CHAPTEE XXIII.

Convolvulus Spbat. —Buckle Stitch.

Having described the butterfly, I will now proceed to the leaves and
flower, commencing with the spray containing the latter. teach a
I shall
new stitch in this pattern called buckle stitch, it makes a very good
variation for stems.
Commence at the base of the upper leaf with five pair, carry stem down
the leaf, making branching fibres on each side, turn and work half the leaf
in whole stitch, making the two little holes with inner pearl ten pair—
will be required. Cut off to five, take them down to the tip again, with
return rope, turn and work the other half leaf. Cut off to six pair, work
the ordinary stem to the butterfly, then add two pair, and work the main
stem in buckle stitch.
As a rule, this is usually done with eight pairs, four working, four
passive pairs but the number of the latter may be increased if a greater
;

width is required. The stitch itself is simple for the first row work from
;

left to right into the middle, that is, across two passive pairs twist the
;

workers once, and also the next pair (which will now become the fourth
working pair) make one stitch, twist both pairs again once, continue
;

across to the other side with the first workers, make the edge stitch, and
bring them back into the middle, twist once and leave them. Now take up
the fourth working pair, work to the left edge, back into the middle, twist
once. Tou now find that there are two pair of workers, meeting in the
middle, both twisted make a stitch with these pairs, twist once, then again
;

work with each to the edges, and back into the middle.
Buckle stitch makes a very pretty braid, and is easier to do than either
the cucumber or open braid; leaves may also be worked with it, having the
eiieot of an open fibre down the middle. Continue the buckle stem to the
calyx of the flower, cut off two pair, and do the calyx with raised work, cut-
ting off all bobbins when you return to the stem. Now commence at the tip
of the first tendril, and, when you reach the stem, cross it, and work the
second leaf, cutting off at the end. Hang on again in the middle of the
flowers, six pair as usual, work round then make little centres to the petals,
;

carrying rope from one to the other. The petals themselves are done in the
following manner work stem up one side to the point of divergence
:
;

continue the stem to the middle of the petal, but hang a fresh pair on
every row before completing the edge stitch put these pairs aside, only
;

working with the original bobbins.

62 HOXITON LACE-MAKIXG.
By the time you have added five pair in this manner, you will have
reached the centre, tarn your pillow, work in whole stitch across the stem,
and the last added pair tie this pair and work back with it in lace stitch,
;

with which stitch you will now continue. Return to the stem side, take in
an extra pair, making a whole stitch in doing so, tie and work back.
Thus you will increase a pair each return row, until all are added, and
the tylDgs take the place of sewings but you must be careful to make the
;

tie stitch a whole one. Continue the petal in the ordinary manner, sewing
to the raised side
; there may be fewer holes on that side than the other,
and it will be, therefore, occasionally necessary to sew twice to the same
strand. Fasten the tip of the fibre as you pass it, and also the tip of the
tendril when you work the petal which it crosses.
As the petal narrows gradually, cut off to six pair turn and carry rope
;

to the point where it diverges, then commence again, hanging on the

extra pairs, and continue the process I have described till the flower is
completed. Now work the leaf and tendril which come from behind the
flower, beginning at the tip of the tendril ; when you have followed its
windings till it reaches the flower, fasten the threads along one side of
the edge of the petal, hang five pairs on along the other side ; turn,
and work the leaf in whole stitch (catching the tendril here and there)
and finishing at the tip. The remaining leaves and tendrils are done in
the same manner as those first described, and when completed it forms
an extremely elegant ornament for the hair, made up with a bow of
ribbon.

CHAPTER XXIV.

CONVOLVULDS SPEAY. FLEMISH StITCH.

In this chapter I give the eontimiation of the spray for the hair, the
upper part of which was described above. As the large ilowers and
some of the leaves are done in the same manner as there described, I
will confine myself now to teachinof the process of doing the half-
opened flowers, and also a new stitch — or rather an old one revived from
—
Flemish lace which I will call Flemish stitch. After working the first
fibre-leaf and its stem to the main stem, bring this latter in buckle-stitch
down to the leaf dotted with little holes this is Flemish stitch. Work
;
CONVOLVULUS RPKAY.
 '. '
1

^
 POPPY ASD BMONY LEAVES — DEYOKIA LACE, ETC. 65

the fibre stem to the tip with six pair, hang on four more pairs, and
add two extra pairs afterwards ; work the leaf in halves as before directed ;
the holes are done in this way ; when you come to one, twist the workers
twice, stick a pin below them, work to the end when you again return to
;

the hole, twist the passive pairs on each side of it once, and twist the
workers tvrice as you pass below the pin this is the whole of the stitch.
;

Tou can put the holes near or far, according to fancy, and it makes a
very pretty variety for leaves.
After doing this leaf, work the two upper flowers ; in the flower covered
with tendrils, you will do first that which touches the leaf, and then
the one running up to the stem the flowers themselves need no description.
;

When you come to the first half-opened flower, you will work down to '

the stem, round the circle, then do rope sewing to the flowers, carry
them down one side, every now and then making a double turn-stitch,
as the pin holes are on the inner curve. At the end of the stem cast
on four more pairs, and work the whole stitch across the flower; turn
and work a few rows of lace stitch, sewing one side to the whole stitch ;
then, with five pair, work stem round the triangle, then once^.more
commence the lace stitch, and finish the flower with it.
The other small flower is done in a different manner. Work the raised
stem as before, hang on three pairs, do about four rows in lace stitch,
leave those bobbins ; hang on five pair at the further end of the triangle
work round it, then continue in lace stitch, taking up all the bobbins,
and finish the flower.

CHAPTER XXV.

Poppy and Beiony Designs— Devonia Laoe-

Sereated Leaves.

We have now arrived at the final series of instructions, which wiU teach
a development of lace unknown in England until the year 1874, although it
has for some time been made in Belgium.
The speciality is that the inner petals of the flowers, the butterflies'
wings, &c., are made to stand out in bold relief, so as to imitate the
natural forms. As this is not Honiton, pure and simple, and must there-
fore have a distinctive name I will venture, though with some hesitation,
E
66 IIONITON LACE-MAKIKG.

to call Devonialace, as lam the first to describe it, although not the only
it

one to have it made in England.*

Beautiful as this lace is in its effect it is by no means easy to do, and
I would warn beginners from attempting it; perfect mastery over the
bobbins, and ease and facility in drawing the sewings must be attained
before entering upon the intricacies of lace in relief. As lam, therefore,
writing for those who have made themselves mistresses of their art so far,
I need not explain at length each leaf and tendril, the exact number of
bobbins, or the precise way in which the parts follow, as a glance at the
illustration ought to be sufficient to show these matters.
I will merely give a general view of the pattern, and then proceed to
particularise the novelties for, besides the different ways of working in
;

relief, all of which are here exemplified, several new stitches are in-
troduced, in order to make these, the concluding illustrations of the
work, as comprehensive as possible.
The design is a mixture of poppies and briony, with butterflies the long
;

eaves, which form, as it were, the framework of the pattern, are to be

donefirst; then the inner flowers, leaves, &c. The border is next worked,
and the ground filled in then the lace is shifted on the pillow, to allow
;

of the succeeding scallops to be worked over the same pricking. When the
whole is completed it is taken off the pillow, and the parts to stand out
in relief finally arranged with a needle.
Having now given a general summary of the pattern, and the order
in which the various portions are worked, I will proceed to the details)
and the instructions will commence with the long leaves which have jagged
or serrated edges. This is a species of leaf which, under different forms, is
very popular among lace makers. It looks difficult, but in reality is not
BO. The first leaf to be worked is tbe one at the edge with Vandyke plait-
iugs in the centre commence at the base, carry the stem along the inner
;

side to the tip turn and come back. The first two or three jags are
;

simply made by spreading the bobbins, adding more if necessary, and

following the course of the pin holes but as the indentations become
;

deeper, the following method is resorted to If you have on, say, eight
:

pair of bobbins, leave the three inside pair, and carry the stem with the
others to the tip, hanging on a fresh pair at each pinhole, but leaving it
behind ;when yon reach the tip, turn and work straight back across
these new pairs, all of which will be wanted.
This system must be pursued whenever the indentation stands out
square from the leaf the number of bobbins to be left behind, varying
;

according to circumstances the raised work is usually made with five

;

pair, but for a very tiny jag four pair only will be required. When, how"
ever, the points run upwards, as ia occasionally the case, the indenta-
tions are treated as small leaves, that is, the extra bobbins required

* Tbe beautiful dress exhibited by Messrs. Howell and James, at the Inter-
national Exhibition of 1874, was made in this style, and was, like mine, a repro-
duction in England of the Belgic lace. This dress was designed by Miss Helen
Wilkie, and worked in Devonshire by the most skilled among the Honiton
workers.
o
'A

'A

H
ft

?;
o
n
P

o
 OPEN DOTS — FLEMISH DIAMONDS — VANDYKE TRACING. 67
are added at the tip, and yon work back down the point, drawing sewings
at one side ; to prevent a hole showing where the stem first turns upwards,
it sometimes as well to add an extra pair there to be left behind and
is
worked in at the base the pinholes should be very close together at this
;

part. There is a form of serrated leaf very common in laoe shops, ac-
companying the nondeaoript flowers called roses, and as they are also
available for small ferns I will give instructions for making them. Carry
centre stem to the tip, then work a sucoessien of leaflets down one side
as thus ;
—
Work the end one to where it joins the centre fibre, then turn
and carry return rope to the place where the points diverge, continue with
stem to the tip, and then work back in the usual way, sewing first to
the stem, then over the rope, to the base repeat this for each leaflet"
;

If the lower ones become wider, extra bobbins must be added at their tips,
and cut off at the base. When one side is finished, take the bobbins
down at the back of the centre stem with return rope, and work the
other in the same manner. Having now described all the forms of serrated
leaves, I need not give further instructions for them, as the design will
show which method is to be pursued. The only failure in the illustration
is that the raised stem is not shown with sufiicient distinctness, but it
should be borne in mind that it will be required at each indentation after
the first two or three at the tip. It now remains to describe the different
patterns on the leaves, and when that is done you may work the four
forming the first scallop without need of farther instructions.

CHAPTER XXVI.

Open Dots —Flemish Diamonds —Vandyke Teaoing.

The leaves of this design are ornamented in various ways, in order to give
itas rich and varied an effect as possible, but the different devices are not
essential to the pattern, and those who prefer it may skip this chapter, and
work in the usual stitches. It is addressed to those who like diversity, and
would rather spend a little more time over their work than continue in one
routine.
The fibres I need not describe, thoy are made as yon travel up the centre
stem. The open dots are worked either with inner pearl, or in the follow-
ing manner, which makes a larger hole Work to the centre, then, instead
:

of sticking a pin for inner pearl, make a turning stitch, and

come back to
the edge take up the bobbins on the other side of the hole, work
• to the
E 2
68 HONITOX LACE-MAKING.
opposite edge, and back again to- the hole, the last atitoh being a turning-
one ; now- return to the original bobbins and work across it -will appear
;

at first aa if the threads would not dra-^v into their proper places, but they
will do ao after three or four rows. The small dots arranged in a lozenge
shape are called Flemish diamonds, being merely Flemish dots worked in
that form.
All these things are easy, only requiring care and neatness, but a zig-zag
device which may be observed on some and which is called
of the leaves,
Vandyke tracery, is more difficult to master, and must have the closest
attention given to it, or it will become a vague and hopeless muddle, and
in that case it will be best, if possible, to undo the work, and resort to
simple whole-stitch. The vandyke tracery is not marked out with pins,
but is formed by twists.
The workers are twisted twice as they pass to and fro, and the passive
bobbins on each side of the strand thus formed, only once the pattern is;

made by varying the place of the twist. If, for instance, you wish to make
a Vandyke, and are working across ten pairs of passive bobbins, you will
proceed as follows, bearing in mind these two observations, that for the sake
of clearness, I do not take into account the outside edge, that bei n ^ always
made as a matter of routine, but I merely reckon across the passive pairs.
i c, those which lie between the pins on each side; also, that when I say

twist, I always mean that the workers are to be twisted twice, the passive
pairs on each side once.
Ist row. Commence from the inner side work 2 whole stitches, twisty
;

— —
work 8, 2nd row. "Work 7, twist, work 3. .3rd row. Work 4, twist, work
6.— —
4th row. Work 5, twist, work 5. 5th row. work G, twist, work 4. 6th —
—
row. Work 3, twist, work 7. 7th row. Work 8, twist, work 2.
This brings you to the point of the Vandyke. 8th row. Work 3, twist,
— —
work 7. 9th row. Work 6, twist, work 4. 10th row. Work 5, twist, work
5.— —
11th row. Work 4, twist, work 6. 12th row. Work 7, twist, work 3.
Repeat from Ist row.
Tou may of coarse vary the size of the vandyke according to the number
of bobbins but the principle is exactly the same how many soever you
;

work across if you are adding bobbins on one side, you must keep the
;

count from the other.

Tou can work a cross by this process on such a space as one of the seed
poda you will have two twists to attend to, aa you wiU commence the two
;

arms of the cross at different sides bring them down to meet at the middle,
;

then carry them once more to the sides.

I will give directions for a cross over ten pairs of bobbins of course the
:

size can be altered at pleaaure according to the apace to be filled. In doing

a cross it is always best to put a pin into the middle hole, so as to mark
it thoroughly and in a large space you may twist thrice instead of twice,
;

in order to define it better.

1st row.—Work twist, work 8, twist, work

1, 1.
2nd row. — Work 2, twist, work twist, work
6, 2.
3rd row. — Work 3, twist, work twist, work
4, 3.
 . LACE IN HBLIEE —FLOWEES — SEED PODS. 69
4th row. —Work 4, twist, work work 4.
2, twist,
5th row. —Work 5, twist, stick a pin, work 5.
6th row.— Work 4, twist, work 2, twist, work 4.
7th row. —Work 3, twist, work 4, twist, work 3.
8th row. — Work 2, twist, work 0, twist, work 2.
9th row. — Work 1, twist, work 8, twist, work 1.

This sort of tracery looks extremely rich when nicely done but I end
;

with the remark with which I began, that it requires the closest attention,
or it will prove a failure.

CHAPTER XXVir.

Laoe in Eelibp —Flowebs— Seed Pods.

In this chapter we come to the most interesting part of the whole book
the laoe in relief. We will begin with the flower whose leaves are folding
over towards the middle, as that shows the easiest mode of doing it.
I need scarcely say that it is not worked in that shape on the pillow on
;

' the contrary, it is worked quite flat, the centre petals being done first.

Flower in Belief.

Work round the inner ring with five pairs, join the circle, add another pair,
and work up one side of a petal ; add three more pairs, then work in whole
stitch, sewing first to the stem, and then to the inner circle, add by degrees
•
four more pairs ; you must sew twice, and occasionally three times, into
70 HONITON LACE-MAKING.
eacli pin-hole of the centre ring in order to bring the bobbins round a^
;

each petal finishes, cut off, by degrees and very neatly, down to six pair,
then work the next one. These petals are not to be joined even wher&
they touch when the last is iinished, and the bobbins cut off to six pair,
;

you will proceed to work the back ones over them in lace stitch.
As a great number of bobbins are required to make these petals full,
and as they should look quite even, not crowded in one part and thin in
another, you must add the bobbins as you run up the stem, which should
be carried about one-third of the way round each petal will take fifteen
;

or sixteen pair. Tou will work over the part already done without taking
any notice of it, and you can take out the pins that hold it down, as the
covering petal will do so the real difficulty ia in the sewings, which are
;

attached to the inner circle hke the first ones. The best plan ia to sew th©
small petals to the outer strands of the circle, and the larger ones to the
cross strands three or four sewings will have to be made to the same
;

place in doing the final leaves when these are completed, put a square-
;

plaiting into the centre and cut off. Finish off thia flower by working the
leaf, stem, and seed-pod in the order shewn in the illustration.
Now work the opposite flower, which ia done in exactly the same manner,
the difference of effect being given afterwards by the needle one flower
;

appearing to fold over as if half blown, the other opening outwards. A

variety is, however, made by the seeda in the middle, this flower being
finished off with " crinkle plaitings," but these I shall deacribe hereafter,
as they must bo worked on the right aide, and are therefore not done till
the laee is taken oft' the pillow. Work the leaf and seed-pod belonging to
this second flower, and you may, if you please, put the cross described in
the foregoing chapter in the seed-pods, which is worked with thirteen
pair.
We now come to the centre flower, which is more difficult to work,,
inasmuch as it has three tiers of petals the two first are made in whole,
;

and the back ones in lace, stitch the edge of the latter must be pearled
;

where it also forms the edge of the scallop. The same directions suffice as
for the other flowers, but the difficulty, as before, consists in the sewings,
which have to be made to the same places three times over and it is in
;

these aewinga that perfect dexterity and neatneas are required, for if you
bungle over them you will spoil your work.
Thoae who cannot master the relief work may work the flowers flat,,
doing the large petals only, some in whole, and some in lace, stitch to
prevent monotony.
There now remain the centre leaves and two seed-pods. Begin with the
stem of the drooping one, which starts from the large poppy, and is carried
round the curve tUl it reaches the seed pod. Here you will perceive in the
pricking two sets of pinholes in the form of ovals, one being inside the
other thia will teach another mode of doing lace in relief. Ton must work
;

first the large oval, carrying stem all round it at the base hang on eight
;

more pair, and work whole-stitch to the tip ; you may put a cross or
lozenge in open tracery if yon please, but I would not advise you to do so
nnless you are tolerably expert at it, as there being sewings on each side».
 LACE IN KELIEP — PLOTTERS — SEED PODS. 71
it willnot be easy to undo thia oval. When you reaoli the tip, out off the
middle bobbins, leaving five pair on each side, with which make the two
points, carrying stem to their tips, and returning to the oval, where sew
securely tie up and out off.
; Having now finished the upper part of this
seed-pod, take the pins out, and turn it straight back on the pillow with a
pin to fasten it down.
Hang on six pair at the base of the small inside oval, sewing to the stem
of theupper one, work stem to the tip, hang on seven more pair and a gimp,
and work back in whole stitch this being the foundation oval, the work
;

should be close and firm, fasten once more to the upper stem, tie up and
cut off the bobbing. Take out the pins, bring the first oval down into its
place, and pin the small one over it when the ground is put in, it must be
;

sewn to the small oval. Now fasten six pair to the stem, where it interseol a
the drooping leaf ; work stem to the large poppy, come back first with eight

Centre Flowek.

and then with twelve pair where the leaf widens, fastening to the side
flower as you pass it work the second
; half of the leaf in the same way, cut
off.

Do the other leaf, and then the stem of the upright seed-pod. The
instructions for thia are the same as for the former one, with the exception
of the finish, which is made by working stem round the small scallops, and
fastening off; this is filled up with crinkle plaitinga afterwards, but you
may put plain ones if you prefer it. Now ground these flowers and
leaves with Devonia ground, which completes this part of the scallop.
Here and there you wiU see a plaiting in the ground, but these I need not
particularise.
In any design containing acorns, the cups maybe made in the same way
as these seed-pods, working the larger portion first, which will stand out in
reliefon the right side then turning it back on the pillow, and working
;

the smaller under side over part of the same ground.

 HONMTON LACE-MAKING.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Chequer Stitch —Lace in Belief —Woekingj over Stem.

The next two aoallops are very nearly duplicates of one another the leaves
;

and flowers, it is true, point in different directions,but the parts which

need special instructions are done in the same way, and one description,
therefore, will suffice.
For these scallops, you must begin between the two, and work the ten-
drils, and also the briony berries, before doing the framework leaves. The
tendrils are simply worked in stem-stitch, each commencing at the point of
one of the side leaves, and ending on itself. The berries are done in a new
stitch, called chequer stitch, which I will here describe Begin at the base
:

of one of the lower berries, work stem all round leave the three outer pairs
:

to carry on the stem afterwards hang on six more pairs. You will have
;

(there being stem on both sides) one pair of workers, which will pass back-
wards and forwards across eight pair be careful that there are no knots
;

in this working pair.

Chequer stitch is done in this manner Work one, twist the workers
:

thrice, work two, twist thrice, work two, twist thrice, work one, and sew
to the stem. Repeat this row three times, then sew the workers to the
next pin hole, twist all the passive pairs three times, and repeat the three
rows then once more sew to two pin holes in succession, and twist the
;

passive pairs. Chequer stitch is very easy and makes a good variation
the only thing to be careful about is to draw each twist well up.
Cut oil at the end of the berry, return to the stem, fasten on three pairs,
work the tendril and stem to the middle berry, which is done as the other,
the only difference being that you do not leave three pairs behind this time,
but hang on three after working stem all round, fill with chequer stitch,
cut off three at the end, and proceed to the next berry. Now do the leaves
forming the frame-work, for which I need not give directions, there being
only one thing to notice, and that is that one point of the leaf turns up,
this, however, is done afterwards you must work up the leaf as if it were
;

not there.
Again we must return to the lace in relief, of which tnis scallop shows
different specimens, some of which are difficult, and require careful work-
ing. Wherever this raised part is smaller than the background, it is plain
sailing enough you work the raised petals, and do the larger ones over them.
;

With the seed-pods the case is reversed, the relief part being larger than
the foundation, but as they start from a stem, they are easily turned back,
and the small portion worked over the same ground. In the side-loBg
2

M
ft

P-
O
 CHEQUEK STITCH —LACE IN KELIEF — WOKKING OVEB. STEM. 73

flowers, and wings folded, the two sides are equal in

butterflies with their
size, nevertheless, they may be turned back like the seed-pods, and the
second, or under side worked into the same holes; but this is not practic-
able whore, as in the case of the half closed briony leaves, there is a length
of mutual foundation, here the two parts must be worked exactly over one
another, and into the same pin-holes.
The butterflies must be done first, so as to complete the edge of the
scallops, work the body with seven pair, then with five pair do the tracery
inside the wings, now carry stem all round the foremost wing, doing the
outside edge first ; and as you pass up it, hang on a pair at each pin-hole
except the three comer ones, which must each have two pairs ; those extra
bobbins I need not say are to be left behind to be ready for the lace stitch
with which you will fill up the wing as soon as you arrive at the base, fasten
the tracery with a sewing as you pass over it. You may pearl the edge of
this wing or not as you please, the foundation wing must be pearled, as it
forms the edge of the lace it looks better to have both wings the same,
;

but the sewings are more diflicult, therefore I leave it to the discretion
of each individual worker. In working this wing, you must contrive so as
to end at the further corner out off to five pairs, and work stem round the
:

other wing to the base, hanging on the extra pairs at each of the three
comer holes, and one at the remaining holes fill with lace stitch, and cut
;

off. Now turn the wing completely back, fold a piece of tissue paper, and
pin it down over it. Hang on five pair to the body, and work the wings
precisely as before, but fastening them to the framework leaves on each
tide. It is obvious that these wings cannot be worked over one another,
the inner tracery forbids it, the first made would be hopelessly spoiled, how-
ever careful the working.
Now work the half briony leaf, and the tendril, then the plain seed pod;
bring the stem of the latter to the leaf, turn and work buckle stitch to
the side-long flower. In doing this you have to pass over several stems
and a leaf ; it is easy to pass simple stem across another portion of lace,
as you may plait the threads, but this you cannot do with buckle stitch.
Ton must therefore have a small piece of passement pricked for this stem
,

as far as yon require it fold tissue paper over the lace, pin down the
;

small pricking with a pad of cotton wool between it and the paper, and
carry your stem over this little bridge you must put your pins in carefully,
;

and very slanting, as they must not run through the tissue paper, remove
the extra passement and cotton wool as soon as you have passed over the
lace.
The side-long flowers are now to be done ; they are slightly different, as
of the other are more ex-
the one seems scarcely open, whereas the petals
panding, and curve outwards ; they are made with the same number of
bobbins, but the petals are joined together in one, and made separate in
the other. The first set of petals are worked in
whole-stitch, both the side

ones being finished before the middle one is done the side petals will take
;

about ten pairs, the middle one seventeen, the bulk of which must be hung
on as you work stem up the side the finish will be at the further comer,
;

in theflower whose petals are joined ; in the other stem must be carried
 7i HONITON lACE-MAKINS.
further ronnd, and you will end at the base. Turn back the lace over its
stem, protecting it with tissue paper, work the under petals in laoe stitch,
and these are to be joined together in both cases. Now work the little
point of the leaf which turns up, and this is done with a separate pricking,
and a pad of cotton wool as in the stem, hang on eight pairs at the tip,
work to the leaf, sew two or three pairs to a pin hole, cut off neatly, and
turn the point under.

CHAPTER XXIX.

Side Leaves — Antwerp Diamonds —Wheels.

The only remaining description of lace in relief to be given, is the side

briony leaf. Begin at the end of the tendril follow it to the leaf, there con-
,

tinue the stem up the back, but not as for raised work, as the leaf curves
the wrong way. Hang on two pair at the tip, and work back in whole stitch,
sewing to the outside strands of the stem, or centre fibre when you come
;

to the first division of the leaf, carry raised work to the tip, hanging on two
extra pairs at the first hole, and one at each of the succeeding holes work
;

straight back from the tip to the centre fibre ; you must sew twice into
each hole, and occasionally thrice, as there are so many more outside than
inside holes. The next point is done by spreading the bobbins, and follow-
ing the course of the outside holes when yon reach the tip and are coming
;

down the last edge, gather the five pairs next to the pins in a cluster, which
pass between the workers in one row, and under them in the next in the
same way that you treat a gimp. Ton must arrange your sewings so as to
finish this side of the leaf neatly at the base. Now turn your pillow with-
out cutting off any of the bobbins, and work back over the same ground
but the reverse way it has a better effect of light and shade, if this half
:

is done in lace-stitch ; but as this leaf is rather puzzling, the iirst one you

do had better be in whole stitch. The sewings to the centre fibre must now
be made to the cross strands, and two or three to one place as before ; the
outside edge is worked into the same holes as the first half, but as there
must be no raised work up the point for fear of joining the two sides
together in drawing the sewings, you must expand or compress your work,,
as the course of the holes suggests, and you must skip one here and there
 SIDE LEAVES — ANTWERP DIAMONDS — WHEELS. 75.

when they are oloae together in order to keep the outside and inside level
with each other. Bring a olaater of five pair down the aide of the last
point : out off to eight pair, work to the tip ; tie up the bobhins, but do
not cut them off, as they will work into the ground you must be very
:

careful in sewing the ground to this leaf, to fasten it to the part last
worked, and not to the laoe that lies below it.
Kow, work the centre leaves and the drooping bud ; which latter is sim-
ply made by working the oval calyx first, and doing the flower, which appears
as if it were just bursting open, over it in laoe stitch.
When the inside of the soallopa are finished and grounded, the border is
next to be worked, and that contains two novelties, the Wheel, and Antwerp
Diamond stitoh. The latter is little more than chequer stitch worked slant -
wise, so that the divisions come in diamonds instead of squares it is done ;

in the following way hang on eleven pairs at the tip of one of the border?
:

leaves you will have three working pairs, one passive pair on each side
;

next the pins, and six other pairs which will be arranged in seta of three ;

work from the outside aoroaa the paaaive pair next the piua (which is called
the aide pair) twist the workers thrice, work throe stitches, the last being a
turning stitch come back to the edge again, twisting the workers before
;

doing the side pair. In the third row yon work the side pair, twist, work
two, the last a turning stitch return to the edge as before. For the fifth row
;

you work the side pair, twist, make a turning etitoh, return then work the
;

aide pair only and back again this will bring the workers down another hole,
,

and is equivalent to making the two sewings together, as you did in chequer
stitoh. Twist all the passive pairs, (except the two side ones, which are
never to be twisted) four or five times. Tou have now made the preliminary
diimond, and have got your work in a slant from this time you work aa
;

foUowa work 1, twist, work 3, twist, work 3, twist, work 1 repeat this
: ;

row three times, then, whichever side you are at, work over the side pair
and back again, twist the six middle pairs, and work three rows, again
twisting after the 1st, 4th, and 7th stitches. Tou will of course end on one
side sooner than the other, but you will wind up as yon began, working
across four and back, then across three, and then two.
When this leaf is finished out off to aix pair, work the oirole and the
other leaf, which ia merely raiaed work and lace stitch.
The Wheel ia next to be done, which completea the border pattern. Here I
must ask for your closest attention, especially for the work in the middle,
which will appear involved, and difficult to understand, until the plan on
which it is done is thoroughly learned by heart. Work round the edge with
six pair in stem-stitch, join the oirole and cut off to two pair bring these inside
j

and aew to the nearest hole make a plait to the centre, stick a pin between
;

the paira, twist both twice hang on two pair at the neighbouring hole, plait
;

to the centre, stick a pin, twist the strands, and make a atiteh with pairs 2
and 3, which lie between the two pins twiat the atranda again, in fact this
;

ia to be done after every stitch. Bring the third plait to the centre, stick a,
pin, twist, and make a stitch with paira 4 and 5 brin g the fourth plait down
;

in like manner, and make a stitch with 6 and 7. You have now got all the
bobbins into the middle of the wheel with all the strands twisted. For the
76 IIOXITON LAOE-IIAKING.

row, make a stitch with 8 and 7, put aside 8, sticking a pin by it, then
first
with 6 and 5, with 4 and 3, 2 and 1, twisting always pat aside 1, sticking
;

a pin by it. In the second row yon make stitches between 2 and 3, 4 and 5,
6 and 7 in the third row between 6 and 5, and 4 and 3, putting aside the
;

end pair on each side, and sticking a pin finally make a stitch between 4
;

and 5. Tou have now all your bobbins arranged for the remaining plaits :

make them to the edge, sew, tie up, and cut off.
Tou will probably have to work this wheel two or three times before you
thoroughly understand the principle on which it is done. It is that the
threads are not taken straight across, but you work in detached stitches
on neighbouring pairs, the relative positions of which change in each row,
so that the strands come across each other in a sort of open work.

CHAPTER XXX.

Italian Ground —Buttehfly — Crinkle Plaitings — Setting

Up Devonia Lace.

Having finished the length of Border, the grounding between the scallops
has to be filled in this ground you will observe is composed of sexagons
: ;

having all the sides equal.

It was used for grounding the old Italian coarse laces but there is a
;

slight difference in the stitch I will teach the real stitoh afterwards, but the
:

Honiton thread is too fine for it in sexagons of this size. Begin at the left
hand side of the place to be filled, say, immediately under one of the wheels,
to which fasten four pairs, and work a plait right and left as far as the two
holes below stick a pin temporarily to hold the bobbins fasten on four
; ;

more at the tip of a leaf, and plait right and left as before. The right hand
plait first made will meet the left-hand one of the second set you must now
;

deal with the bobbins in pairs instead of single threads take out the pin
;

yon put in to hold the threads, pass the middle left hand pair over the
middle right, stick in the pin again between them twist each pair to a
;

fine strand, and with these four strands make a plait down the straight
side of the sexagon, stickapinin the hole at the bottom, untwist the threads,
and make a plait right and left as before. Eeturn to the border, fasten on
-fooi more pairs, and bring a fresh line of plaits down in the same manner
 ITALIAN GROUND —BUTTERFLY — CRINKLED PLAITINGS, ETC. 77

ifyou twist your strands firmly there will be no perceptible difference in

tbe size of the plaits. Aa it is difficult to manage knots in this ground, you
had better wind them well away before beginning, but should one unfor-
tunately appear, you must deal with it at the commencement of the strand
plait.
The old stitch being, as I before observed, done with coarse thread, ia a
little differentthe stitch is aa follows Put the middle left hand bobbin
; :

over the middle right, give both pairs one twist to the left repeat. When ;

the right and left lines meet, twist the strands, put the middle left strand
over the middle right, stick a pin to hold them, then work with the twisted
strands in the same stitch as before.
Yon may vary this ground by putting a pearl irregularly here and there,
about halfway down the plait on either side, but it should not be on the
strand plait. Of course this stitch may be done with Honiton thread,
but the sexagon must be a great deal smaller and closer it will give very ;

much the effect of a Yalenciennes ground.

The only part of the design still undesoribed is the butterfly, with its
wings expanded but as the Italian ground cannot be well worked over it,
;

this is made separately, and fastened on afterwards. Begin at the body,

then do the inner tracery, and next the raised work round the wings, hang-
ing on extra bobbins for filling in the lace-stitch background in the
same way as directed for the other butterflies. You need not make all
these butterflies the same, in fact it would be an improvement in a length
of lace to vary them as much as possible, working some of their wings in
chequer atitoh or Antwerp diamonds, and others with the large holes de-
scribed in a previous chapter.
When the full length of the design is finished, take it off the pillow,
and work another. You may, if you please, join the lengths aa you
go by pinning down the finiahed piece, and sewing the new one at
the points of contact but as it is not easy to keep the lace clean and un-
;

crumpled, it is much better to work the lengths separate, and join them
afterwards over blue paper you must in this case have an extra pricking
;

of one of the triangular pieces of the Italian ground, and fill this portion in
at the time of joining.
The interiors of the poppies have also to be fiUed in on the right aide
with the crinkle plaitings these are only long plaits, which when
:

completed, are fastened back either with a sewing or a stitch very nearly
as far as the place they started from so that they stand up in loops, and
;

afford a very fair representation of stamens.

The lace being finiahed and taken off the pillow, it muat now go through
the process of " setting up," which is a very dainty and delicate part of the
work while you are about it, let the lace lie loosely on tissue paper, or a
:

clean handkerchief it should not be folded up, or have a weight placed upon
;

it. Before you begin to work, wash your hands in warm water it is better ;

to make this an invariable nile, as of neceasity you must handle the lace a
good deal, and though it can be cleaned, yet it never looks so well afterwards,
aa indeed no lace really does. Take the finest possible needle, and with lace
thread adjust the petals in their places : to fasten off it will be sufficient to
78 HONITON LACE-MAKING.
make a stitch, and pass the needle onoe through the loop, draw it up, and
cut the thread quite close yon may have a little knot at the end of
off ;

your thread when you begin, if you run it under one of the raised stems it
will not show.
The first poppy which folds over towards the middle, has simply a thread
run along the edge of the minor petals you may draw them close, or leave
;

them partly open according to fancy the opposite one curves its leaves
:

back, and these you arrange by fastening them down lightly to the back pe-
tals, some with one stitch, others with two, running the thread at the back
of the lace don ot try to do them regularly, the greater variety you can give,
;

the more artistic the effect. The middle poppy will require both modes of
treatment, the inner petals being disposed to stand up, the middle ones
curved downwards. For the one side long flower, you merely have to sew
both sides together the other, which is more open, should not be sewn all
;

the way, and the middle petal is caught to the aide ones, for the space of
three or four holes from the bottom. The seed pods require neat and
careful work the large oval has to be sewn to the small one on both sides,
;

but not at the tip this rounds it, and causes it to stand out boldly.
;

Fasten down the calyx of the opening flower with a stitch at the tip and ;

lastly sew on the loose butterflies, which you may place in different attitudes
according to your own liking.
Having done all this, the finishing touch must be put aa follows Boil :

a quarter of an ounce of rice in about a pint ot water, so as to get the very

thinnest possible starch, to give a sou]pron merely ot stiffness when cold
;

strain it off, and with a camel's hair pencil brush over the inside of the

parts standing out in relief. They should be merely damped, not made
very wet. Where you wish to get a bold curve, aa in the sidelong flower which
turna its petals outwards, use an ivory knitting needle dipped in the rice-
water to mould it over this also may be inserted into the seed pods, if the
:

apace at the tip is sufliciently open. In fact wherever a rounded appearance

is required, the knitting needle is more useful than the brush ; but the

latter is beat for the half leaves, and the butterflies' wings, also in several
places where the needle cannot be inserted without risk of tearing out the
Btitches.
The Devonia kind of lace does not fold over well, as may readily be
apprehended sharp corners are therefore to be avoided in trimming dresses
;

with it, though it may be arranged round curves. For such a piece of lace
as would be required for a square or "V shaped bodice for instance, the
design should be specially drawn for the corners and it would be beat to
;

mount the lace on ribbon, as it can be at once placed on the dress, without
all the fingering which it must otherwise undergo, and which might crush
the petals.
Groups extremely well in this species of lace appliqutid on
of flowers look
velvet, satin, or silkthey make exquisite banner acreens or may be let
; ;

in as centre panels to small table cabinets but in this case they should
;

either be behind glass, or have a cover to save them from dust. These
groups are not grounded, but the applique work must be done in a
frame.
 CONCLUSION. 79

"Devonia's" work is nowdone: the labour is ended which, slight and un-
important as it may appear, has yet had power to beguile many a sad and
weary hour of a chequered life. She cannot close Without an expression of
gratitude to her numerous and most kind correspondents, who, though
strangers, have seemed to her as friends and to whom she wishes all
;

success in the interesting and beautiful art in which she has had the
pleasure of instructing them.
 INDEX

A. Cover cloths i'O.gc S '

Crinkle plaitings 77
Acorns in relief .... page 71 Cucumber braid H5
Adding bobbing IS Plailinga 32
at tip of leaf 26
passing up st>?m .... -38
ditto for petals 61 D.
Antwerp diamonda 75
Pame Joan Ground 53
De tenia Ground 48
B. lace in relief i'>0

acorns and seed pods. . . 71

Bead edge 36 butteiflies 73
Beginner's stem 12 leaves 71
Bobbins 8 spray 23
bag 8
to cut off 34
to wind 9
E.
Border Scallop 48
Shamrock 36
Edge, pearl, left 01
Trefoil 2.5
pearl, right 25
Wheel and Diamond ... 75
plain 10
Wild Rose 32
Woo'! Sorrel 33
Braid buckle 61
Cucumber 3.5
open 3.5
open bead 43 False pin holes - 18
plain 35 Fern spray 56
Butterfly, Emperor 57 leaflets 67
half 38 Fibre branching ...... 49
in relief 73 centre 42
Peacock 31 stitch . 22
Finish of leaf 21
Footings 35, 43

Camellia spray 50 G.
Centre fibre 41
Chequer atitoh 72 Gimp 8
Conf olvulas spray 61 to work 14
82

Grounds, needle : P.
Dame Joan . . - -poge 53
Net 43 Passement pag^ 8
Star 62 Passing over work 73
Strand 34 Patterns, Camellia 50
Convolviilns 61
Grounds, pillow :

Daisy 28
Devonia 48 Daisy collar 41
Honiton 42 Fern 56
Italian 76 Half butterfly 38
Net 43 Ivy leaf 43
Lily lappet 46
Lime blossom 38
Peacock Batterfly .... 31
Poppy and Briony. ... 65
Half hitch 9 Shamrock 36
Headings 35 Trefoil edging 25
Hook 8 WildEose 37
Wood Sorrel 33
Pearl, left 31
right 25
inner 33
Inner pearl 38 Pillow 8
Ivy leaf pattern 42 Pius 8
Pincushion 8
Pistils 26
K.
Plaitiogs, crinkle. ..... 77
Knots
Cucumber S'2
.

in lace stitoh
12
17
long or diamond .... 29
square 50

L.

Lace stitch 16
Leaves to finish . . 21 Raised work ....... 26
with raised work 26 Belief work, Acorne 71
to work in halves 33 Butterflies 73
another method 37 Flowers 69
with centre fibre 41 Leaves 74
open branching fibres 42 Seed pods 70
close ditto . . 49 Reverse folds to leaves. ... 47
in relief . . . 74 Rope 27
serrated . . . 66 return 4^
Lime Blossom . . 38

Scissors, cutting off 34

Needle pin 8 Seed pods, in relief .... 70
mode of using 27 Serrated leaves 66
another method 67
Setting up Devonia lace ... 73
0. Sewing with hook .... 15, 20
with middle pin 27
Open braid 35 Sewing centre fibre 41
dots 67 rope 27
fibres 42 Shifting lace on pillow ... 25
trefoil 15 Square plaitings 50
stem, bef^inner'a . . . . page 12 Trefoil, open V^'J'-' 14
Backlo 61 close IS
ordinary 14 pearl edge
Starch 78 Turning scallops 2H
Stitch,Antwerp Diamond 75 Tti'ista 1!»
Chequer 72 Tying up bobbins 12
Dama Joan . . . . 63
Flemish 62
Flemish diamond , . &3
Fibre 22
Lace 16
Net needle Unwinding bobbins .
. . . . 42
Net pillow . , . . 42
Open dots 67
Star 52
Vandyke tracing . . 68
Wheel 73 Vandyke tracery .

Whole 10

W.
T.
WheeU 75
Thread 8 Wild Rose border 37
Tracing 57 Winding bobbins if

Vandyke 68 WiDdiug up 19
cross 68 Wood Sorrel border .... 33

ERRATUM.
*,* I CiXi-'i I am in error in eaying that Messrs. Howell and James's dre^e -vas a
repioductioD from the Btlgic the details of the raised flowers, &c., were copied
;

from a piece of old Eoman lace. I mTSeH took the idea of the relief work from a
Belgian flounce, which I once saw casually in passing, and which had here and
there raised petals to the flowers. Olive and I, and aa ing-enioue an appreciative '

lace muter, Mrs. Carter, of Exmouth, carried out further details, and perfecte."!
the procesie between us. Devoivia.
 PRICE LIST.

The chaif^es for the pricked patterns have been further reduced, as I
have made a fresh arrang-emeut respecting' them.
The bobbin?, which I now have made only of boxwood, are rather dearer,
and there is in consequence a sh'g-hfc increase in the price of the lace pillows.

PRICKED PATTERNS.
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