0% found this document useful (0 votes)
504 views42 pages

Chapter 5

This document provides an overview of heritage tourism in Tiruvannamalai District of Tamil Nadu, India. It discusses the religious and spiritual significance of sites in the district like the Arunachaleswarar Temple and Sri Ramana Maharishi Ashram. These sites attract millions of pilgrims annually. The district remains an important symbol of peace and spirituality due to these sites and the presence of Lord Arunachaleswarar. Tourism in Tiruvannamalai is focused on religious tourism and the Arunachaleswarar Temple is a significant religious tourism destination.

Uploaded by

KRISHNA SITARAM
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
504 views42 pages

Chapter 5

This document provides an overview of heritage tourism in Tiruvannamalai District of Tamil Nadu, India. It discusses the religious and spiritual significance of sites in the district like the Arunachaleswarar Temple and Sri Ramana Maharishi Ashram. These sites attract millions of pilgrims annually. The district remains an important symbol of peace and spirituality due to these sites and the presence of Lord Arunachaleswarar. Tourism in Tiruvannamalai is focused on religious tourism and the Arunachaleswarar Temple is a significant religious tourism destination.

Uploaded by

KRISHNA SITARAM
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 42

136 

CHAPTER - V

Religious Efflorescence, Spiritual Precepts and Tourism Potentials in


Tiruvannamalai District

Heritage Tourism in India

Tourism is a major aspect of global economy in all countries whether


developed or developing, having increasing opportunities to participate as
hosts and guests, in recent socio–economic phenomenon. Looking at the
tremendous potential that tourism industry offers in the field of employment
generation and foreign earnings capacity, it has been identified by developing
countries as their catalyst for economic development.1 Tourism represents a
major economic activity in many Countries around the world, especially
endowed with rich fauna and also it encompasses people, their creations and
the social, economic and cultural conditions that influence their lives. The
natural and man–made environment of an area constitutes one of the basic
ingredients of the tourist products and naturally the quality is its basic
constituent. Thus, the environment, be it predominantly natural or largely
man–made, is one of the most basic resources for tourism. Tourism is a
resource industry, one that is dependent on nature’s endowment and
society’s heritage. Tourism sells these resources as part of its experiential
product, but it also has to share the same resources with other users,
including local residents.2

                                                            
1
. R. Sthanislas, (2012), “Socio-Cultural Impact of Tourism in Tiruvannamalai, South
India, A Historical Perspective”, in R, Kavitha and S, Geetha kannammal (Eds),
A Paradigm Shift in Socio-Cultural Perspectives in 20th Century Historical and
Literary Studies, Semmoodhai Pathippagam, Chennai, p.280. 
2
. E.E. Peter, (1985), Murphy, Tourism a Community approach, Methuen Publication,
London, p. 30. 
137 
 

Heritage Tourism in Tamil Nadu

The symbol of ancient Dravidian culture, Tamil Nadu is the


southernmost State of India. It is a beautiful State nestled in the Southern
Indian peninsula, on the shores of the Bay of Bengal and the deep blue
Indian Ocean. The State extends from the Coromandel Coast in the east to
the forested Western Ghats in the west. The State lies at the southern tip of
India, surrounded by the States of Pondicherry, Kerala, Andhra Pradesh and
Karnataka. It is the second most industrialized State in the country after
Gujarat.

Scholars recognize Tamil as one of the India’s two languages of


antiquity. The cultural ambiance of the State has given it a special position on
the cultural map of the country. This land has a vibrant culture, a rich tapestry
of history, a nature’s paradise of extended beaches, clear skies and many
more to rediscover.

The region has been the home of the Tamil people since at least 500
BCE. Its official language Tamil has been in use in inscriptions and literature
for over 2000 years. Tamil Nadu is home of many natural resources, Hindu
temples of Dravidian architecture, hill stations, beach resorts, multi religious
pilgrimage sites and eight UNESCO world Heritage Sites.3

Tourism in Tiruvannamalai

Most of the foreign tourists believe that the Arunachaleswarar Temple


and temples in this region, Tiruvannamalai hill, Sri Seshadri Maharishi
Ashram and Sri Ramana Maharishi Ashram are significant religious and
spiritual centers of the world. Girivalam (Circambulation) around the 14 km
path of the sacred hill had been a tradition from time immemorial. It is

                                                            
3
. www.economics watch.com/stateprofileofTamilNaduprofile.htm 
138 
 

estimated that on the full moon day (Pournami) every month 10 lakhs
devotees visit this pilgrim town to offer their prayers. The ten day “Karthigai
Deepam Festival” (light lit at the top of the sacred hill) attracts lakhs of people
from neighboring states.4

Tiruvannamalai district remains as a symbol of everlasting peace and


divinity due to the existence of the holy shrine of Lord Arunachaleswara and
Ashrams. It is considered superior to all the other popular shrines.
Tiruvannamalai confers salvation to one who merely thinks of it. Sathanur
dam is one of the major dams constructed across Pennaiyar River near
Chennakesava Hills.5 This Dam was constructed during the year 1958. It has
beautiful parks and a mini zoo. The garden is dotted with colorful statues.
There is a swimming pool and a crocodile farm.

Javvadhu Hills are situated 75.Km from Tiruvannamalai. The cliffs and
precipices of hills allure and excite tourists. Places of interest in the Javvadhu
hills are Beema falls, Komutteri Lake, Kavanur observatory, Amirithi forest
and the glass house. Devikkapuram is situated 50 Km from Tiruvannamalai.
Here 600 year old Sri Periyanayagi Amman Temple (the second biggest
temple in Tiruvannamalai district) and Sri Kanakagireeswarar temple are
situated which are famous among the devotees all over Tamil Nadu.6

Sri Arunachaleswarar temple:

Tiruvannamalai is one of the significant centres of religious tourism. It


is also one of the 22 famous sacred centers (Padal petra Sthalams, praised
and sung by great Saivaite saints) situated in the heart of the Nadunad. This

                                                            
4
. A.T.M. Panneerselvam, (2007), Tiruvannamalai Mahangal, (Tamil) Surya
Pathippalayam, Tiruvannamalai, p. 3. 
5
. S.C. Bhatt, (1999), The Encyclopaedic District Gazetteers of India, Southern Zone,
Vol-II, Gyan Publishing house, New Delhi, p. 1276. 
6
. M. Annamalai, (2000), Tamilaga Sutrula Guide, (Tamil) Arun Nilayam, Chennai, p. 63. 
139 
 

town is a reputed Siva Sthalam in Tiruvannamalai District. According to the


famous Skandha Puranam, it is here that God Siva demonstrated to the
world that he was the all pervading power by appearing as a blazing hill of
fire.7 To commemorate this event, a grand festival is celebrated here every
year on the Karthigai Asterism day in the Tamil month of Karthigai with a
grand illumination of Mount Arunachala and by installing a glorious deepam
(lamp) on the hill top whose flame could be seen by people miles and miles
away from Tiruvannamalai town.8 According to Arunachala Puranam, the
very meditation in this sacred Sthalam brings to the devotee the status of
Mukthi or Moksha. Saint Thirugnana Sambandar had also sung in praise of
the deity of this sacred place.

This is a Theyu Sthalam among the Pancha Bhoodha Sthalams.


Besides, this is a famous “Mani-Pooragathalam” among the
“Aratharathalangal” the source of all existence. This ancient Sthalam is
also known by several other names such as Sona Sailam, Sonagiri
Arunachalam, Arunagiri, Tiruvannamalai, Gowri Nagaram, Thesu Nagaram,
Sivaloga Nagaram, Mukthipuri, Sudha Nagaram, Thalechuram, Gnana
Nagaram, Sonai Verpu, Arunai Verpu and Uyirvali Kantham.9 The special
glory of this sacred Sthalam is in the fact that Goddess Parvathi gained a
permanent place in the left side of lord Siva through her severe penance.

History has it that lord Siva in the form of blazing fire took the shape of
the hill Arunachala. Geologists confirm that among the four-fold basic types

                                                            
7
. Census of India-1961, Vol-IX, Part XI-D, Temples of the Tamil Nadu State, North
Arcot & Nilgiris, Madras, 1968, p.208. 
8
. R. Sankar, (2012), “Religious Tourism in Tiruvannamalai District – A Study”, in
R. Sthanislas, (Ed), Two Day National Conference on Heritage Tourism in India,
Proceedings Volume, Tiruvannamalai, p. 213. 
9
. Sri Devanatha Swamigal, (2003), Tiruvannamalai Thala Puranam ennum
Arunachalapuranam, (Tamil) Narpavi Prasuram, pp.23-25. 
140 
 

of hill this had its origin through ignition.10 The hill is 2668.feet high above the
mean sea level. Devotees who come around this hill in a pradhakshinam
(clock-wise direction) have to cover a total distance of 8.miles in
circumference. Several caves, ashrams and shrines are found in the central
and bottom portions of this hill. There is also another temple here called Sri
Adi Annamalai temple on the backside of the main temple at the foot of the
hill worshipped by Saivaite Saint Sri Manickavasagar.11

The Siva temple of Sri Arunachaleswarar has a very big complex of


shrines centrally situated in the town over an extensive area of about 24
acres. This is one of the biggest temples in South India. The outer fortresses
of this shrine are very high; the four pagodas beautifying the temple are
soaring high to the skies loftily on all its four sides.12 The 11 tiered Raja
Gopuram at the eastern entrance is 217 feet high. The construction of this
lofty pagoda was begun by Sri Krishna Devaraya the famous Vijayanagar
king in 1516 A.D as a commemoration for his victory in wars and this was
later on completed by the Tanjore king Sri Sevappa Nayakkar. Devotees call
the southern pagoda as the Thirumanjana Gopuram, and the northern
pagoda as the Ammaniammal Gopuram. It is said that a woman saint
(Sanyasini) by name Sri Ammaniammal constructed the northern pagoda
some 200 years ago.13

The 1000 pillared mandapam is situated on the right side of the inner
portion of the Raja Gopuram. The stone inscriptions of this temple state that
this 1000 pillared mandapam and the temple tank (Thirukkulam) adjacent to it

                                                            
10
. Krishnan, (1996), Alayamanigal, (Tamil) Sudarmani Pathippagam, Chennai, pp. 163-
165. 
11
. Tiruvannamalai: (2010/2011), General Information Catalogue, The Spiritual Centre of
South India, p. 12. 
12
. Census of India-1961, op., cit., p. 209. 
13
. Rajasekara Thangamani, (2004), Tourism in Tamil Nadu, Kongu Pathippagam, p. 70. 
141 
 

were built by the Vijayanagar king Sri Krishna Devaraya. On the left side is
found the sanctum (sannidhi) of Sri Kambathilaiyanar, lord Muruga, who gave
dharshan to Sri Prabuda Deva Maharahan complying with the request of
Saint Arunagirinadhar who praised the Lord Muruga by his devotional hymns,
Tiruppugazh. This is found as a temple for Sri Kambathilaiyanar, sculptured
on a pillar in the sixteen pillared mandapam which is in the north of the
temple tank.14

Arunachaleswarar Thirukoil

The temple at Tiruvannamalai is one of the biggest and beautiful


temples in South India. With the hill as background it gives the appearance of
a fort to those who see it from a distance. It is unique on account of its
magnificent towers, high rampart walls, broad quadrangles, spacious
gateways, large mandapams and fine tanks. It is also known for its
architectural importance and sculptural beauty.

The temple is situated in the east at the bottom of the Tiruvannamalai


hill about one kilo meter from the Tiruvannamalai Railway station. It faces
east and it has four stately towers on all the four sides and four high stone
walls just like the rampart walls of a fort.15 The eastern tower called the
Rajagopuram is the highest one. The Southern tower is called
Thirumanjanagopuram, that in the west is called Peygopuram and that in the
north is called Ammaniammal gopuram. The temple occupies an extent of
about 24 acres of land. The walls on the East and west measure 700 feet
each. The South wall is 1479 feet long and North wall is 1590 feet long. The
Rajagopuram which adorns the East gateway is 217 feet high with 11
storeys, its base measures 135 feet by 98 feet. As indicated earlier, this
                                                            
14
. R. Sankar, op., cit., p. 214. 
15
. Ambujam Anantharaman, (2006), Temples of South India, East West Book (Madras),
Pvt. Ltd, p. 21. 
142 
 

tower was built by Vijayanagar king Krishna Devaraya and completed by


Sevappa Nayaka of Thanjavur. Krishna Devaraya also constructed the
thousand pillared Mantapam and dug the tank opposite to it.16 Ammani
Ammal a Sanyasini built the North gopuram which is called after her name.

The towers, the pillars in the Mandapams and Vimanams of the temple
consist of excellent sculptures. In the side walls of the entrance of East
gopuram there are dance poses and figures of bewitching beauty. Generally
stone idols are fixed over the substance of rare herbals which is called
“Ashtabandana”. But in this case it is “Swarnabandana”, Gold, which is of
special importance. There are five inner rounds. Including what is called
Madavilagam running just outside the temple walls and the four car streets
and the long path round the hill (giri) and the temple is said to have seven
prakaras.

As enjoined, one should enter the temple by the main gate in front of
the Sanctum sanctorum. Before entering the Eastern Main gate we see the
sixteen–Pillared Mantapam and the Four–Pillared Mantapam.17 While
crossing the Eastern tower gate one should worship the gopura ganapathi
there. This deity is held in high esteem and veneration by all devotees and so
they worship him first. In the fifth prakaram Kambathilayanar Sannidhi and
Gnanappal Mandapam are found. It is strongly believed that God Muruga
appeared in a pillar for the sake of the devotee king Prabudevaraya in
response to the devotional hymn by saint Arunagirinathar. In the south there
is the sacred tank called Sivaganga theertham. It has stonesteps and
Thirumalapathi Mantapam on all four sides.18

                                                            
16
. www.arunachalasamudra.org 
17
. S. Prabhakaran, (2008), Tiruvannamalai Annamalaiyar Thirukkovilin Maha
Deepamum Girivalamum, (Tamil) Andril Pathippagam, Chennai, p. 24. 
18
. George Micbell, (Ed), Temple towns of Tamil Nadu, Marq Publications, p. 43. 
143 
 

Historical details about Arunachaleswara temple are available in the


form of stone inscriptions on the prakara walls and copper plates. These
inscriptions refer to a period of about thousand years starting from 750 A.D.
Arunachaleswara temple is one of the “Pancha Bootha Sthalams” and it is
also called as “Agni Sthalam”. Successive kings of South India have given
great importance to the temple of Arunachaleswara.19 During the past
thousand years these kings in succession have built prakaras outlying
temples, gopurams and compound walls, dug ponds, offered jewels and
donated gold and lands for the maintenance of the temple.

When we observe the general structure of the temple, we notice that


there are five small gopurams on the inner boundary and four big gopuramas
on the outer boundary. The atmosphere of the temple and the sensation one
feels inside the temple are indescribable.20 The various architectural styles of
generations of kings who built and renovated its massive gopurams and
halls, the ashrams of the great saints who stayed here and sang hymns in
praise of the Lord and the bounties of nature in the region make the religious
tourists, the pilgrims and the visitors exhilarated.

The names of the Sthala

This Tiruvannamalai sthala is also known by the names Arunagiri,


Annamalai, Arunachalam, Arunai, Sonagiri and Sonachalam. Arunai is only
the short form of the names Arunagiri and Arunachalam. All these names

                                                            
19
. A. Arivoli, (1995), Pancha Bootha Sthalangal, (Tamil) Manivasagar Pathippagam,
Chennai, pp. 42-48. 
20
. P. V. Jagadisa Ayyar, (2000), South Indian Shrines, Pupa & co, Publications, New
Delhi, p. 247. 
144 
 

signify only one thing–the mountain with the qualities of fire. The mountain of
this sthala shines like fire at dawn, when the sun rises in the east.21

Unnamulai Amman

The Devi shrine the shrine of the consort of the Lord Arunachaleswara
is a separate structure. Opposite to this shrine is a big mandapa. Besides
there are the flag staff Nandi and Navagrahas. The Dvarapalakas are armed
with Gadha, exhibit Tarjani mudra and has a crown.

The entire Devi shrine has been renovated and embellished with
additional structures in the last century by Nagarathars and they display later
day architecture. In the prahara around this sanctum the festival idols are
kept; in the west lingodbava, processional idol of Vinayaga Somalinga,
Cheralingam, Brahmi, and Durga are housed in the precincts.22 Around the
sanctum and in the antarala are found five Sakti Ammans in ghoshtas; each
image is about 11/2 feet height.

In the sanctum is enshrined Unnamulai amman, 3 feet (90 cms) height


radiating peace. The Mandapa outside the sanctum has beautiful pillars with
exquisite art. Because of Ashta–Lakshmis here, the Mandapa is known as
the Ashta Lakshmi Mandapam.23

Festivals

There are many festivals that are celebrated in Tiruvannamalai. From


inscriptions, we learn that some of these festivals are remnants of ancient
times. The epigraphs speak of Kartigai festival, Marghazi, Thai, and Panguni
festivals.
                                                            
21
. V. Narayanaswamy, (2007), Tiruvannamalai, Manivasagar Pathippagam, Chennai,
p. 3. 
22
. Ibid., p. 27. 
23
. S. Prabhakaran, op., cit., p. 24. 
145 
 

During the reign of Rajendra Chola in the ancient period the Karthigai
and Panguni festivals were celebrated in a grand manner. In Kulottunga’s
reign a festival during Thai was added and yet the Karthigai festival was held
in great esteem.24

Several people have donated gifts in the past to feed pilgrims drawn to
the festivals. On the day when Annamalai Nadhar goes out in the hunting
festival during Kartigai, arrangements had been made to feed people on a
grand scale. There were also cultural performances during the festivals and
music recitals and dances enchanted the devotees which are continued to
this day.25 Also during the kartigai festival sandal paste is applied over the
idol of Lord Nataraja when it is taken in procession outside the temple.
Merchants have gifted cloth for Dwajasthamba on Karthigai, Panguni and
Thai festivals.

Endowments have also been instituted by them for sacred religious


rituals during Uttarayana and Dakshinayana Sankramanas and for free
feeding. During the past decades some Philanthropists and affluent people
also follow this tradition in tune with the old practice.

Monthly festivals

Chitrai (April-May): In every Tamil Month, special festivals are


conducted in “Arunachaleswara temple. Chitrai vizha is celebrated for 10
days. This festival closes on Chitra Pournami. During the festival the deities
are decorated beautifully and worshipped with elaborate rituals.

Vaikasi (May-June): In Visaka festival Lord Murugan is worshipped


with all kinds of religious sanctities.
                                                            
24
. V. Narayanaswamy, op., cit., p. 53. 
25
. M. Muthuramalingam, (2007), Deiveega Thiruthalangal, (Tamil) Poornam Publishers,
Virudhunagar, p. 37. 
146 
 

Ani (June-July): Ani festival commences on the 21st day of Ani month
and runs through 10 days in Dakshinayana. Ani Thirumanjanam is the
festival when ablutions for Nataraja are done in Uttara star in the thousand
pillared hall for 2 days.

Adi (July-August): The Adipoora Vizha for goddess Parasakti is


celebrated for 10 days. On the 10th day Valaikappu function (Wearing of
Bangles) and fire walking activity take place. During the Middle of August, the
Arunagiri Nadhar Vizha is celebrated in the presence of the devotees of Lord
Muruga.

Avani (August-September): Avani Mula Vizha and Vinayaga


Chathurthi Vizha are celebrated in this month in which large number of
devotees participate.

Purattasi (September–October): Navaratri Vizha is celebrated for 10


days during this month Goddesses Lakshmi, Saraswathi and Durgai are
worshipped with great reverence. Women observe “Vratham” (fasting) for the
prosperity of the family.

Iyppasi (October–November): Skanda Shasti and Soora Samhara


festival is conducted for 6 days. This festival for Lord Muruga signifies his
victory over the demons which is celebrated in a grand manner.

Karthigai (November-December): Holy water from 1008 chanks


(Sangu Abhishekam) is poured over Sivalinga (Aruanchaleswarar) on every
Monday (Somavaram) in the month of Kartigai. This is considered sacred
and attended by many devotees.

Thiru Karthigai Deepa Vizha: This is celebrated for 13 days; On the


10th day the Thiru Kartigai Deepam festival takes place which is the most
147 
 

important festival of the temple in which thousands of devotees participate


and worship the Lord Arunachaleswara.

Margazhi (December-January): Commencing on the 21st day of


Margazhi the Uttarayana festival occurs for 10 days. In the month of
Margazhi on Thruvadirai day 10 day festival for Manickavachaka is
conducted. This takes place in the thousand pillared hall.26

Thai (January-February): On the 2nd day of Thai, the Thiruvudal


festival is conducted in a grand manner. God and goddess appear together
to bless the devotees during this festival. Another festival at Manularpet takes
place on the 5th day of Thai and on Rathasapthami day in Kalasapakkam and
on these two occasions the Lord Arunachaleswara and other deities are
given a sacred bath which is witnessed by thousands of devotees.

Masi (February-March): Vallala Maharaja Festival on Masi Magam


day is celebrated in memory of king Ballala of the Hoysala dynasty for his
contribution to the temple.27 On Amara Chathurdasi Maha Sivaratri is
celebrated and this is an important festival for Lord Siva.

Panguni (March-April): Panguni Uttaram is a Six day festival


conducted in the Arunachaleswara temple with all Agama rituals. It must be
remembered that all the months in the year, are festival months in which
grand religious practices are followed with much pomp and devotion. Pilgrims
are enthralled by such celebrations throughout the year.

                                                            
26
. A. Krishnan, (2002), Tamil Civilization in Epigraphy, Bharatiya Kala Prakashan, Delhi,
pp. 68-69. 
27
.V.S. Ramanan, Ramana’s, Arunachala Ocean of Grace Divine, V.S. Ramanan
Publisher, Sri Ramanasramam, Tiruvannamalai, 2009, pp, 157-175. 
148 
 

Karthigai Deepam Festival

The Karthigai Deebam festival is celebrated in the Tamil month of


Karthigai (November–December). It begins on Uttradam day with flag
hoisting and goes on for nine days. Earlier it was used to be celebrated for
three days.28

Each morning and evening the five deities, (Pancha Murthies) Siva,
Parvathi, Subrahmanya, Ganapati, and Chandikeshvara, go around over the
car in the streets in procession. On the seventh day, the same deities, each
on a huge wooden car, are led in turn around the temple streets in a
procession.29

Of the five elements earth, water, fire, air, and ether (sky), fire is
considered important as being in the middle. Adding Sun, Moon and Soul to
these it is said that God exposes Himself in eight forms “Ashtamurthams”. So
the Vedas, Agamas and Puranas extol god as Rudragni Sivajothi and
Paramsudar.30 Just as fire destroys impurity in anything, god destroys the
darkness of ignorance and egoism in men and blesses them with the light of
wisdom. This in short is the philosophic truth behind the celebration of the
Karthigai festival.

In the early hours of the tenth day Bharani Deepam in five agantams
will be lit in Arunachaleswarar sannithi. In the evening the Pancha Murthis
will be brought to the katchi (show) Mantapam.31 At dusk (pradosha) when

                                                            
28
. Dinakaran, (Vellore), 9-12-2011, p. 1. 
29
. S. P. Gupta, Krishnalal and Mahua Bhattacharya, (2002), Cultural Tourism in India-
Museums, Monuments & Arts, Indraprastha Museum of Art archaeology, New Delhi,
p. 173. 
30
. Shantha Varadarajan, (2005), Iniya Sindanaigal, (Tamil) Surya & Bros, Chennai,
pp. 129-131. 
31
. Gawthama Neelambaram, (2007), Nalam Tharum Nar Chindhanai, (Tamil) Gangai
Putthaga Nilayam, Chennai, pp. 83-85. 
149 
 

the karthigai day synchronizing with the full moon day, the deity,
Ardhanareeswarar is taken out to the entrance of the temple with the five
Deepams which are put in a big receptacle near the flag–staff. At the same
time the beacon light on the hill is lit. the huge concourse of devotees from all
parts of our country in a million voice raise a cry simultaneously “Harohara to
Annamalai” which will rend the air. It is a great sight for all. On the same night
the eleven storeyed gopuram is also lit with “Ahals” (earthern oil lamps) set in
rows in all the storeys. Though this festival is special in Tiruvannamalai it is
common throughout the Tamil country. Lighting festival is celebrated in all the
temples of South India including Vishnu temples.32

It is ordained that a pilgrim to Tiruvannamalai for this festival should


take one meal on the previous (Bharani) day, worship Bharani Deepam
during the early hours on the Karthigai Deepam day, go round the hill by walk
through the entire distance of eight miles and on the way worship also deity
in Adi (Ani) Annamalai temple. He must take to fasting completely that day
and should see the Deepam light that evening only after that he is supposed
to take his food to complete the Vratha.33

Every year, 15 lakhs people participate in this festivals and the holy
deepam is kept burning for 11 days on the hill top. The deity,
Ardhanareeswarar, appears before the public on karthigai deepam day
alone.34 Vaishnavites also celebrate Deepam day as it is the birthday of
Tirumangaialwar, one of the great Vaishnavaite saints.

                                                            
32
. V. Narayanaswamy, op., cit., p. 46. 
33
. Dinamalar, (Vellore), 9-12-2011, p.1. 
34
. The Hindu, (Vellore), 6-12-2011, p. 3. 
150 
 

Annual Festival (Brahmothsavam)

Sri Arunachaleswara temple in Tiruvannamalai celebrates every year


Annual festival (Brahamothsavam) for more than ten days in a grand manner.
In addition to Durgambal festival, Pidariamman festival and Anukjal
Vigneshwara Puja function, the temple celebrates the Bramothsava as per
Agama rituals. Every day the Uthsava deities kept on different vahanas
(vehicles) on different days are taken out in procession in the streets around
the temple. The Panchamurthis, as the Uthsava idols are called, are
beautifully decorated each day and it is an enchanting sight to the tourists
who gather there in great numbers to have the dharshan of the god on the
festival days. It is really an exhilarating experience to be in Tiruvannamalai
during the festival days.

Surrounding Shrines Ani (Adi) Annamalai Temple

Ani Annamalai temple is one of the three temples in this Sthala which,
it is believed, showers enormous grace on devotees. This is an old temple
existing prior to Annamalaiyar temple and is called Adhi Arunachala. This
shrine is located in the north–west of Tiruvannamalai town, about 9 KM on
the circuit route of the hill towards the west.

The legend declares that in ancient times, Brahma got infatuated with
the beautiful celestial maiden Thilottama, his own creation and got rid of his
passion only by worshipping a Sivalinga installed by him in this place. In the
East the Deity worshipped by Thirumal came to be known as Annamalai
Nadhar, and that in the west worshipped by Brahma came to be called Ani
Annamalai Nadhar.35

                                                            
35
. A.T.M. Panneerselvam, (2009), Tiruvannamalai Malaivala Magimai, (Tamil) Sri
Seshadri Swamigal Ashramam, Tiruvannamalai, p. 13. 
151 
 

The lord enshrined here is Ani Annamalai. The temple also is known
by the same name. Here we see a temple for the Saivaite saint
Manickavasakar, a shrine for Mariamman and two tanks. In this temple, Ani
Annamalai Nadhar is in the form of a Sivalinga in the sanctum sanctorum and
Devi Unnamulai Ammai has a separate shrine.36 Within this temple in the
north of the main threshold there is the shrines for Palani Andavar and
Somaskandar. As seen in other temples, here too we find Ganesa,
Chandrasekara, child Chandrasekara, Ashta Deva, Subramania, Shanmuga,
Gajalakshmi, Navagrahas and Chandikesvarar.

The Saivaite saint Thirunavukarasu Swamigal mentions in his


Thevaram hymns in seven songs about this Ani Annamalai. Manickavasaga
Swamigal composed the significant devotional songs called Thiruvembavai
only here. A shrine has sprung in the very place he composed
Thiruvembavai.37

During Karthigai festival day all festivities that happen in the main
Annamalaiyar temple are held here too. The idols of Ani Annnamalaiyar join
the procession of Annamalai Nadhar during that occasion. On the Karthigai
day, village folks light lamps of thinai flour and worship. This ancient temple
of Ani Annamalai has been renovated by the affluent community people the
Nagarathars in the 20th century and it is in very good condition.38 Religious
tourists who had visited this temple had a fine dharshan of the Lord and had
enjoyed the architecture in the temple. They were also thrilled to be in the hill
surroundings.

                                                            
36
. B.S. Ramanan, (2009), Girivalam, (Tamil) Vikadan Prasuram, pp. 44-47. 
37
. Shantha Varadarajan, (1996), Alayamanigal, (Tamil) Sudarmani Pathippagam,
Chennai, pp. 163-165. 
38
. M. Chandramathi, (2006), Sivasthalangal, (Tamil) Lio Book Publishers, Chennai, p. 4. 
152 
 

Pavazhakundru Matam

The Pavazhakundru is in the east of the Annamalai mountain, the


sthala hill. In the tract which was a dense forest once, Gautama Maharishi
created a cottage with palm leaf roof and meditated on Annamalai. The
Tapovana where the goddess Annai Parasakti did her penance to become
the part of the lord is also found here. There after several yogis and siddas
thronged here to do penance in this hill.39

Azhakananda Jnana Desigar, a saint was responsible for the blooming


of this Pavazhakundru math. Pavazagirisvarar is enshrined at the top of this
hill. This Sivalinga was worshipped by Gauthama Maharishi. Muthambigai is
the name of the goddess. But the processional idol here is only Lord
Subramania. A sanctum for Armuga with Valli and Deivanai is here which is a
beautiful shrine.40 Viewed from the temple, this hill, the Annamalai hill and the
temple of Annamlaiyar present a panoramic view and the scenery offered is
exhilarating and entrancing.

Arunachala the sacred hill of India

Arunachala, the sacred hill in Tiruvannamalai has been known for


centuries as a divine object in a holy place. Ramana Maharishi considered
Arunachala as his divine guru. Numerous pilgrims and saints have visited
this area since time immemorial.41 The Arunachala hill is so charged with
spiritual energy that one gets the spiritual benefits. Spiritual activities
conducted in Arunachala become thousand times more efficacious when
compared to other places.

                                                            
39
. V. Narayanaswamy, op., cit., p. 46. 
40
. North Arcot District, (1961), Ten Years Achievement, Government of Tamil Nadu,
News Department, p. 15. 
41
. M. M. Mani, (2007), Sutrulaviyal, R. Balammal, Publisher, Salem, p. 206. 
153 
 

It is said that Arunachala had been an asylum for hundreds of Siddhas


in their subtle form. One important factor in visiting Tiruvannamalai and
worshipping Arunachala and engaging oneself in spiritual activities that these
Siddhas bestow their blessings on the devotees engaged in spiritual pursuits
in Arunachaleswara temple.42 It is said that whether it is charitable work,
service to the poor and the needy, meditation on the divine name or singing
in the divine name, when it is done in Arunchaleswara temple one would reap
all spiritual benefits which will contribute to your rapid advancement in the
material and spiritual path.

Going around the Holy Hill; (Girivalam or Pradakshina)

The hill is of 2668 feet high (800 m). The road encircling the mountain
where devotees circumambulate is 14 km long. Earlier, the Girivalam path
was thorny and rocky and today the roads are well laid out. The original mud
road was laid by Pandya king Vikrama Pandiyan (1276 A.D). Two mile
stones are still seen opposite to the Sri Raghavendra temple. While the
circumambulation is considered beneficial on any day, of late, it has become
popular to congregate there on full moon days and festival days (like
Karthigai, first day of the Tamil month and Tamil New year day). Chithra
Paurnami, especially, being the first full moon day of the Tamil New year, it is
very popular and lakhs of devotees undertake Girivalam on that day.43

The pilgrims and devotees who go around the hill with pious
sentiments offer food to the mendicants on the way. They chant the holy
names of the lord and walk the distance with veneration. They also worship
the deities Eight Lingams on the way during their Girivalam activity. The Eight

                                                            
42
. Ibid., p. 207. 
43
. B.S. Ramanan, op., cit., p. 34. 
154 
 

Lingams are said to be those worshipped by different saints and they are the
representations of Arunachala himself.44 These Lingams are:

1. Indra Lingam (East)


2. Agni Lingam (South East)
3. Ema Lingam (South)
4. Niruthi Lingam (South West)
5. Surya Lingam
6. Varuna Lingam (West)
7. Vaayu Lingam (North West)
8. Chandra Lingam
9. Kubera Lingam (North)
10. Esanya Lingam (North East)
The shrines for Surya Lingam and Chandra Lingam in the Girivalam
path are recent constructions. The old shrines of the above Lingams were in
ruins and hence there were public encroachments in these places for a long
time. However, on the initiatives of the pious devotees and Hindu Religious
Endowment Board, the encroaches were vacated and there arose new
shrines for the Surya Lingam and Chandra Lingam.

Another notable feature in the Girivalam path temple is that in the Adhi
Annamalai temple, the Sun rays directly fall on the Lingam on the first of the
Tamil month Chithirai (April) and Avani (September) every year. This is
undoubtedly an architectural marvel in Tiruvannamalai.

                                                            
44
. K. Baskaran, (2010), Tiruvannamalai the Land for Peace and Divinity, Amish
Publications, Chennai, p. 29. 
155 
 

Walking to Virupaksha Cave and Skanda Ashram

Virupaksha Cave has been venerated since the year 1300, because
earlier it was the abode of the saint, Virupaksha Deva and later during the
20th century it was the place of meditation for Sri Ramana Maharishi. Sri
Ramana lived in this cave for 16 years, from 1899 to 1916.45 It was while
residing in this cave that his early written works originated like ‘Self–Inquiry’
and ‘who am I ?’ For this reason many devotees of Sri Ramana feel that this
is a place that every one must visit. There are two ways to get to Virupaksha
cave. One way is from Sri Ramanasramam via Skandashram to this place
and another one is to walk from the main Tiruvannamalai temple, to the cave
which is nearby.46

A Guide to Giripradakshina

‘A Guide to Giripradakshina’ is the Guide book available in Ramana


Ashram for religious tourists who wish to do Girivalam. This is a practical,
handy guide to use while walking around the holy Arunachaleswar Mountain.
Whether taking the inner–forest route or the main road, this book will guide
you, pointing out all the important shrines and landmarks on the way.
Numerous photos, both color and black and white, are provided, along with a
fold–out page that has a satellite view of the hill on one side and a
topographical map on the other showing the routes and important shrines.47

Arunagirinathar

Tiruvannamalai is also the place where the great Tamil saint


Arunagirinathar lived and wrote his divine hymns in the 14th century. In his
early years, Arunagiri, the son of a courtesan, led a dissolute life squandering
                                                            
45
. Personal Interview, Ravi Vaitheespara, a tourist from Canada, 25th March 2013. 
46
. Tiruvannamalai General Information Catalogue, op., cit., p. 18. 
47
. Deepamalai News (2010), (Monthly Magazine), Tiruvannamalai, April, p. 10. 
156 
 

all his wealth on immoral activities. He became afflicted with disease that he
was shunned by all.48 Arunagiri was so much frustrated that he tried to kill
himself by jumping from the Vallala Gopuram of the Arunachala temple. Lord
Muruga appeared in a vision and told him not to despair. He cured him and
asked him to sing in praise of him and Arunagiri was thus transformed into a
saint. He wrote the famous Thiruppugazh a collection of 1300 verses on
Muruga’s glory.49 As many of these hymns have been set to music they are a
popular choice in Carnatic music concerts. The music lovers are enchanted
in listening to these hymns.

Bhagavan Ramana Maharishi

Sri Ramana Maharishi, who was earlier named as Venkataraman by


pious parents, Azhagammal and Sundaram Iyer, was born in the early hours
of December 30, 1879, in the village of Tiruchuzhi, Virudhunagar district of
Tamil Nadu.

Tiruchuzhi is the place where the old Bhoominathar temple is situated


and every year, the Arudra darshan celebration a unique festival of Lord Siva
takes place there in the Tamil month of Margazhi.50 During this celebration,
Bhoominatheswara (a name of Lord Siva) is taken out of the temple along
with his consort Sahayambal, and carried through the streets in procession.
About an hour after midnight, just as the Lord and his consort were about to
be carried across the threshold of the sanctum sanctorum, the child was
born.51

                                                            
48
. Ambujam Anantharaman, (2006), Temples of South India, East West, Book (Madras)
Pvt. Ltd, Chennai, p. 25. 
49
. Tamil Arasu, Information and Public Relations Department, Government of Tamil Nadu,
Chennai, October 2003, p. 12. 
50
. A.T.M. Panneerselvam, (2007), Tiruvannamalai Mahangal, (Tamil) Surya
Pathippalayam, Tiruvannamalai, p. 57. 
51
. V. Narayanaswamy, op., cit., p. 87. 
157 
 

Ramana Maharishi is probably the most famous Indian sage of the 20th
century. After experiencing the bliss of the self at the age of sixteen years, to
attract thousands of followers from all over the world by his moral precepts
Ramana Maharishi left home for Arunachala, where he spent his rest of his
life living in temples and caves until devotees built an ashram for him.

Ramana ashram is a holy place at Tiruvannamalai which is a


monument on his mortal remains. It is a very beautiful ashram below
Arunachala Mountain.52 Many guest rooms have been constructed in and
around the Ashram for the pilgrims and the religious tourists to know and
learn more about his spiritual precepts and to experience the bliss of spiritual
understanding.

On the spiritual path

On July 17, 1896 Venkataraman (the future Ramana Maharishi) had a


life–changing experience. Here is an account of how he later reported it, It
was in 1896, about 6 weeks before he left Madurai for good (to go to
Tiruvannamalai–Arunachala) that this great change in his life took place. He
was sitting alone in a room on the first floor of his uncle’s house. He seldom
had any sickness and on that day there was nothing wrong with his health,
but a sudden violent fear of death overtook him.53 There was nothing in his
state of health to account for it nor was there any urge in him to find out
whether there was any account for the fear. He just felt that he was going to
die and began thinking what to do about it. There was nothing to hold him
back now. He decided to leave for Arunachala right then. Since his uncle
and brother would not let him carry out his plan, he pretended that he was
going to attend a special class on electricity at school. As if it was
                                                            
52
. Tamil Arasu, (2007), Information and Public Relations Department, Government of
Tamil Nadu, Chennai, p.62. 
53
. www.sriramanamaharshi.org 
158 
 

preordained, Nagaswami unwrittingly gave him the means to bring his plan to
fruition as he said, “Then take five rupees from the way”. After a quick meal,
he referred an atlas to see how he should reach Tiruvannamalai. He
calculated the cost of his journey took three rupees and left the remaining
two with a note which read: “I have set out in quest of my father in
accordance with his command.54 This (meaning his person) has only
embarked on a virtuous enterprise. Therefore, no one need grieve over this
act. And no money need be spent in search of this. Your college fee has not
been paid herewith rupees two”.

It was a journey fraught with difficulties, but with divine intervention, he


found people who helped him and finally, Ramana reached his destination–
his father’s home–on 1 September, 1896. His first few weeks were spent in
the thousand–pillared hall in the Lord Subramanya Swami shrine, but local
urchins would not leave him alone. So he shifted to other spots in the temple
and then to the pitch dark patala–lingam vault, a place the urchins were
afraid to enter.55 He spent his days there absorbed in such deep Samadhi
position that he was unaware of the bites of vermin and pests and his thighs
being bitten into.

The Ashramam

Azhagammal Ramana Maharishi’s mother visited Tiruvannamalai


accompanied by her eldest son Nagaswami to convince Ramana, who was
then living at Pavalakkundru, one of the eastern spurs of Arunachala and to
take him back with her. He remained unmoved by her tears, and kept silent
and sat still. Soon after this, Ramana went up the hill Arunachala and started

                                                            
54
. S. Geetha Kannammal, (et.al), (2007), An Introduction to Tourism in Tamil Nadu,
University of Madras, Chennai, p. 73. 
55
. P. Narayanan, (1989), Tamilaga Sutrula, (Tamil) Arunothayam Pathippagam, Chennai,
p. 333. 
159 
 

living in a cave called Virupaksha named after a saint who had dwelt there
and was buried there.56 Seekers came with questions, and Ramana
sometimes wrote out his answers and explanations. One of the books that
was brought to him during this period was Sankara’s Vivekachudamani,
which later on he rendered into Tamil prose.

Ramana’s mother, Azhagammal, after her return to Manamadurai, lost


her eldest son. When she fell ill during one of her visits to Tiruvannamalai,
and suffered for several weeks with symptoms of typhoid. Ramana nursed
her and restored her to good health.57 He even composed a hymn in Tamil
beseeching Lord Arunachala to cure her of her disease. Azhagammal
recovered and went back to Manamadurai. But not long after, she returned to
Tiruvannamalai with her youngest son, Nagasundaram in 1916 to be with
Ramanar. Soon after, Ramana moved from Virupaksha to Skandasramam, a
little higher up the hill. Here the mother received intense training in spiritual
life. After their Mukthi, Ashrams were constructed as per the norms of Agama
Sastra in Tiruvannamalai, which were frequented by the devotees and
followers of his moral precepts.

The Ashram Complex

Sri Niranjanananda Swami had overseen the construction of the


Ashrams and their growth. He became the sarvadhikari or manager.58 He
was mainly responsible for the mother’s temple to come into being. In 1953,
he passed away and his son T.N. Venkataraman took charge as president of
the Ashrams.
                                                            
56
. Tamil Arasu, Information and Public Relations Department, Government of Tamil Nadu,
Chennai, 16-3-2000, p. 23. 
57
. M.A.V. Rajendran, (2007), Tamilaga Sutrula Kalanjiam, (Tamil) Sri Hindu Publications,
Chennai, p. 62. 
58
. Annai Umadeviyar Moolamaga Aruluraigal (Sonnathu), Anmeega Vazhikatti, (Tamil)
Mahan Sri Seshadri Swamigal Trust, Tiruvannamalai, (2011), pp. 24-25. 
160 
 

Sri Seshadri Swamigal Ashram

Another important religious monument in Tiruvannamalai is Sri


Seshadri Swamigal ashram. It is situated next to Sri Ramanashramam
between the second and third Lingam on the circumambulation route.
Regular pujas are performed at the Samadhi of Sri Seshadri Swamigal.
There are a few platforms for meditation in the open, in a beautiful garden;
under the cool shade of trees.59 One can do meditation facing the holy hill of
Arunachala, from this garden. A book stall in the ashram sells photographs
and books. Accommodation is available and food is served by a canteen
inside the ashram. The religious tourist will have a scintillating experience in
his visit to this Ashram which is in a serene and peaceful atmosphere.

About Sri Seshadri Swamigal

Sri Seshadri Swamigal was born in Kanchipuram in the Kamakoti


family to the couple Varadarajan and Maragathammal. The Kamakoti
families, about 30 in number, were specially brought to Kanchipuram by Adi
Sankara, from Central India, to spread the Sri Vidhya Cult.60

Seshadri as a boy of four, while following his mother to the temple,


took an idol of Sri Krishna (an incarnation of Vishnu) in his hand, from a
shop, saying that he would do pooja to the idol. The shop keeper,
appreciating the child gave the idol free to little Seshadri.

Next day, as Maragathammal and Seshadri were going to the temple,


the shop keeper prostrated before Seshadri, placed child Seshadri’s hand on
his eyes and cried “golden hand!” He explained that the sale was

                                                            
59
. C.S. Murugesan, (2010), Thiru Annamalai Mahangal, (Tamil) Azhagu Pathippagam,
Chennai, p. 64. 
60
. Sunitha Boobalan, (2006), Mukthikku Vazhi Bakthi, Sri Aishwarya Publications, Arani,
pp.43-44. 
161 
 

extraordinarily high after the child touched the idols.61 From that day
onwards, till his maha siddhi, he was popularly known as “Thangakkai
Seshadri” (Seshadri of golden hand), and whatever he touched that
flourished. Seshadri renounced material life at the age of 19, left
Kanchipuram and came to Tiruvannamalai.

There he roamed about in the streets of Tiruvannamalai like a mad


man. He used to play like a child everywhere. However, his strange behavior
was known to the town people and they never minded his activities. On the
contrary, they eagerly awaited his visit, because his visit meant that their
work place, house or business would flourish. He never left Tiruvannamalai
till his nirvana in 1929. He was a great upasaka (worshipper) of Shakthi. His
spiritual precepts are believed to be the nectar to the life of the people.62
Devotees throng to his Ashram in great number to have peace of mind and
prosperity in their life.

Yogi Ramsurat kumar Ashram

Yogi Ramsurat kumar was born in a village near Kashi in North India
on the first day of December, 1918. In his childhood, he loved to meet the
yogis and religious monks. He was befriended by a number of holy men who
lived in huts on the banks of Ganges. In search of his spiritual Guru his
spiritual mission started in the year 1947, when he decided to visit the
renowned sage and patriot of India, Sri Aurobindo Ghose. He expressed his
desire to the old monk. Aurobindo then asked yogiram to meet another holy
man, the sage at Arunachala, Sri Ramana Maharishsi.63 He later moved to
Kerala to the ashram of Swami Ramadas. Sri Aurobindo gave him jnana, Sri
                                                            
61
. www.seshadriswamigal.com 
62
. M.A.V. Rajendran, (2007), Tamilga Sutrula Thagaval Kalanjiam, Sri Hindu
Publications, Chennai, p. 62. 
63
. N.A. Saravanakumaran, (2001), Ninaithale Mukthi Arulum Tiruvannamalai Thala
Varalaru, (Tamil) Mathi Nilayam, Chennai, p. 27. 
162 
 

Maharishi blessed him with tapas and Swami Ramadas gave him the nectar
of Bhakti. Swami Ramadas initiated him into the holy rank with the holy
verses such as “Om Sri Ram Jai Ram Jai Jai Ram”, by pronouncing it thrice
in his ears.

After a prolonged spiritual voyage, Yogiji finally reached


Tiruvannamalai. He was always seen near the Temple chariot, at the corners
of the Road, and in the temple precincts. He continued to bless the devotees
who thronged in thousands to his house at the Sannadhi Street. The
Devotees wished him to have an Ashram which he gently accepted. The yogi
Ramsurat kumar Ashram is constructed at Agrahara kollai with a total area of
3.5 acres.64 It is believed that the Prayer did in his Ashram by people would
make them accomplish their virtuous objectives.

Poondi Mahan Ashramam

It is about seven miles from Polur, on the main road to Tiruvannamalai,


one has to take a diversion from Polur to reach Poondi Village. The ashram
of the saint, Poondi Swamiyar has a hut for a number of years. Whether it
was a day of blazing sun, or torrential rain, whether it was biting cold or thick
mist, the saint used to spend his days and nights on the river bed only and no
one knew his name or place of birth. For over three decades, he was seen
roaming about in the neighboring villages. About forty years back he came to
Poondi in Tiruvannamalai district and stayed in a small house permanently.65
As a saint he performed many miracles for the good of the people and people
of his times and followers of his principles today venerate him with great
devotion.

                                                            
64
. R.K.Azhvar, (1995), Samarpanam, (Tamil) Yogi Ramsurat kumar Ashramam,
Tiruvannamalai, p. 18. 
65
. S. Anuvennila, (2010), Sri Poondimahan Vazhkkaiyum Arputha Nikazvugalum,
(Tamil) Megathutan Pathippagam, Chennai, p. 11. 
163 
 

Parvathamalai

Parvathamalai is located at Thenmahadevamangalam village which is


about 20 kms off Polur. Polur is about 35 kms north of Tiruvannamalai.
There’s a very beautiful temple for Lord Siva at the top of the Parvathamalai
hill. Numerous Siddhars and minor gods from the celestial world worship
here every night. Reaching the hill is somewhat difficult. During the full moon
day, this hill attracts a lot of devotees.66 It is believed that this is a place
where people offer prayers to achieve spiritual power.

Parvathamalai is considered as a divine hill. On reaching the top, one


immediately senses the serenity of the place. Away from all noise and
disturbances, people are of the view that this is indeed a place where the
soul can connect with the divine. It is hardly surprising that the hill is said to
be the abode of several Siddhars or mendicants who meditate on the hill. It is
said that the hill was formed when Lord Hanuman was carrying the
Sanjeevani hills, and a part of it broke and fell here. Therefore, the hill is said
to be full of herbal plants, and breathing this pure air is said to free one from
all illnesses.67

It is to be noted that before reaching the top of the hill, there is a mark
that is believed to be the footprint of Lord Siva. He is believed to have
stopped here with Parvathi, and because the hill started shaking, unable to
bear his presence, he is said to have stepped away and stopped at
Tiruvannamalai.68 He is present here as Lord Mallikarjuna, and Parvathi is
worshipped as Brahmarambika.

                                                            
66
. V. Thirunavukarasu, (2005), Sutrula Selvom, (Tamil) Rampirasuram, Chennai, p. 293. 
67
. Personal Interview, M. Rajendran, Director, Agricultural Department, Government of
Tamil Nadu, Chennai, 23-5-2013. 
68
. Personal Interview, Rajendran, Thenmahadevamangalam Village, Polur Taluk,
Tiruvannamalai District, 20-4-2013. 
164 
 

Interestingly, devotees can offer worship, touch the lingam and do puja
themselves, unlike in other South Indian temples. Chitra Pournami, the full
moon day in the Tamil month of Chitrai, is said to be auspicious here and
thousands of people climb to the hill worship Lord Siva.69

Sri Vedapureeswarar Temple; Cheyyar:

Another sacred temple of the district is Sri Vedapureeswarar temple in


Cheyyar taluk. The temple is one of the most ancient ones in Tamil Nadu.
The presiding deity is Sri Vedapureeswarar because he taught Vedas to
Rishis who forgot them. It was here that Sri Tirujnana Sambandar by
performing a miracle in converting a male Palmyra tree in to a female one
and finally defeated the Jains (Samanas). Saivaite saints have visited the
temple and composed hymns praising the deity. The big Nandhi here is not
facing the God as it is usual in all Siva temples but is looking towards the
entrance of the temple. The consort in this temple is Sri Bala Kujambigai.70
There are several Uthsava Moorthies in the temple.

The name Thiruvattur is composed of the words Thiru, Veda and Ur


meaning the village of the sacred Vedas. This village is close to the northern
bank of Cheyyar River. This place appears to have been one of the principal
towns of the jains and its temple probably belonged originally to those
religionists who were subjected to dreadful persecutions referred to in the
local puranam.71 It states that when the rakshasa somakasuran stole the
Vedas, the rishis could not perform the ceremonies. Later Siva appeared in
the form of an aged man and taught them the holy writings at which they
                                                            
69
. Personal Interview, Jayasankaran, Thenmahadevamangalam Village, Polur Taluk,
Tiruvannamalai District, 20-4-2013. 
70
. T.B. Pachaiyappan, (2012), Thiruvottur Thala Varalaru, (Tamil) Thiruvottur Arulmigu
Vedapureeswarar Samaya Thondu Mandram, Cheyyar, Tiruvannamalai, pp. 10-11. 
71
. D. Sri Sridhar, (2005), Thamilaga Thonmai Chinnangal, (Tamil) Pavai Printers (P) Ltd,
Chennai, pp. 12-15. 
165 
 

were greatly rejoiced, built a temple and worshiped Siva in the form of
Vedapureeswara. The jains, however, questioned the authenticity of the new
Vedas and one of their powerful kings living at Punavathi, a large town once
but now a deserted village on the opposite side of the river brought about a
gigantic serpent to devour one Gnanasambandhamurthi, the most successful
of the supporters of the new scriptures.72 Siva appeared as a snake charmer,
subdued the reptile by the strains of his pipe and sent him against the Jains
whom he began to subdue. At last they submitted and the king with many of
his people became a Saivaite. Some of the Jains still denied the truth of the
Siva worship and Hindu religion and it was agreed that the rival Vedas should
be subjected to a test by dropping them in the flood of Cheyyar. But the
Saivaites won the test and the Jains had to accept defeat. Such a kind of
sanctity has been attached to the Vedas by the people of that age. Devout
Saivaites all over Tamil Nadu find pleasure in visiting this age old temple for
its power and sanctity.73

Sri Agastheeswarar Temple and Sri Adhimoola Perumal temple,


Pudupalayam:

There are two ancient temples in the village namely, Sri


Agastheeswarar temple and Adhimoola Perumal temple which are managed
by the same trustees. These temples were renovated by several devotees
during the past years and the Navagrahas were installed by Sri Venkatachala
Mudaliar. The temples cover an area of about an acre with a strongly built
fortress all round.74

                                                            
72
. S. Krishnamoorthy, (1992), Tiruvottur Temple, Sekar Pathippagam, Chennai,
pp. 26-27. 
73
. Natana. Kasinathan and M. Chandiramurthy, (2006), Vellore Mavatta Thadayangal
Vol-I, Meyyappan Pathiippagam, Chidhamabram, p.126. 
74
. Personal Interview, Parameswari, Devotee, Puthupalayam Village, Puthupalayam Block,
Tiruvannamalai District, 16-1-2013. 
166 
 

Sri Agastheeswara Swami and His consort Sri Angayarkanniamman


are the presiding deities of the Siva temple while Sri Adhimoola Perumal with
Sri Devi and Bhudevi are the principal deities of the Vishnu shrine. According
to a legend in vogue, it is said that the 1½ feet high moolavar lingam here is
said to have been installed and worshipped by sage Agasthiya himself in
order to wipe off his sin of having killed the two Asuras by name Vathapy and
Tilvalan through his yogic powers when they tried to end his very life, and
hence the name Agastheeswarar to the presiding deity.75 There are also
several festival idols here for Swamy and Amman, Sri Vinayagar, Sri
Subramaniar and Chandikeswarar. All these idols are made of panchalogam
(five metals). The exquisite beauty of the idols enthralls the devotees and
pilgrims.

Sri Mariamman Temple, Chengam:

According to a legend which is still in vogue among the rural folk, the
moola vigraham of the presiding deity of this shrine was found some 200
years ago by a farmer when his plough hit the vigraham during cultivation.
The goddess later appeared in his dream and instructed him to build a
temple in this place. Thus the temple came into existence.

The presiding deity goddess Mariamman is represented by a


Swayambu vigraham 1 foot high while her festival idol is 1¾ foot in height.76
Poojas are performed daily by a priest belonging to the Chettiar community
whose office is non-hereditary. He is paid a decent monthly salary from the
temple income.

                                                            
75
. R. Sankar, op. cit., p. 214. 
76
. Personal Interview, S. Selvakumar, Devotee, Manmalai Village, Chengam Block,
Tiruvannamalai District, 17-1-2013. 
167 
 

The temple possesses wet lands to the extent of 2.31 acres and 5.56
acres of dry land. Rent collected from the same is spent for the daily poojas,
neivedhiams other religious rituals and general maintenance of the temple.
The temple also derives an additional annual income of about Rs.2000
through hundi collections and a similar amount from the offerings of devotees
during festive occasions in the months of Adi and Avani.77 Besides the
temple also gets Rs.300 every year by levying a schedule of fees at fixed
rates for special prarthanas and prayers by devotees and these include
mudikoduthal (tonsure), abishegam (anointing of deities) and
angapradhakshinam (Devotees lie down and rolling around the sanctum).

The temple does not celebrate any special festival but tuesdays and
fridays in Adi and Avani are considered important during which poojas,
abishegams and aradhanas are invariably performed and these are attended
by about two hundred devotees both from local and out station places. The
affairs of the temple are managed by a board of two trustees under the
control of the Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Board.78

Sri Ramachandraswamy and Sri Renukambal Amman temple - Polur:

Padaiveedu, now a desolate village is having two ancient and


important temples, one dedicated to Sri Ramachandraswami and the other to
Goddess Renukambal Amman. These two temples have turned out to be
devotional places of pilgrimage in this district.

                                                            
77
.M. Muthuramalingam, (2007), Deiveega Thiruthalangal, (Tamil) Poornam Publishers,
Virudhunagar, pp. 36-38. 
78
. R. Sankar, op., cit., p. 214. 
168 
 

The notable feature of this village is the presence of a number of idols


(vigrahas) dedicated to Sri Hanumar, the staunch devotee of Sri Rama. It is
believed that a prayer to him will cure all the diseases of the worshipper.79

The temple of Sri Renukambal Amman covers an area of 6.29 acres.


Recently a new pagoda has been constructed on the western entrance of the
temple with new solid wooden doors. There are beautiful carvings in the
pillars in its depiction of the initiation of the sage and incarnation of Vishnu,
Parasurama by Sri Renuka Devi.80 The principal deity, Sri Renukambal
Amman is in a standing posture. Unlike other temples, a novel feature of this
shrine is that by the power of the Amman, barren women who go around the
prakaram in a pradhakshina of the Parasuramar sannidhi are blessed with
children and blind devotees get back their vision by offering silver
“kanmalars” (eyes depicted in silver). Besides it is also believed that even
incurable diseases are miraculously cured by offering prarthanas (prayers) to
the Amman.81

The “sthalapuranam” of the temple explains the power of the deity and
states that it will bring all happiness to those devotees who worship her and
the Thrimurthis. This aspect had attracted many religious tourists and
devotees in the past to throng to this place in great number.

                                                            
79
. A. Singaravel, (2007), Tamilagathil Vijayanagara Aatchi, A.D. 1336-1530, (Tamil)
Saraswathi Mahal Library, Tanjore, p. 27. 
80
. Thamaraikkannan, (1989), Sambuvarayars, (Tamil) Parasakthi Pathippagam, Sengai
Anna District, pp. 39-42. 
81
. N. Rasamanogaran, (2006), Malai Mavatta Manbugal, (Tamil) Tiruvannamalai,
Tiruvannamalai District, p. 28. 
169 
 

Sri Periyanayagi Amman Temple and Sri Kanakagireeswarar temple


Devikapuram

Another important historical and religious tourism centre in the district


is Devikapuram. It is about 40 Km from Tiruvannamalai. Devi Periyanayagi
Amman temple is located in the centre of the town and another notable one,
kanagagirieshwarar temple is at the top of the hill Ponmalai.82

Devikapuram, otherwise known as “the city of the goddess”, is noted


for its temples. The most important of these is dedicated to the goddess
Brihadhambal alias Periyanayagi and is situated in the town, while that of her
spouse, Kanagagireeswarar alias Ponmalainadhar crowns the adjacent hill.
The former temple was built by the Chola Raja Tondaiman Chakravarti, who
is said to have begun his mission of temple building at this place. It is
regarded as second in importance only to Tiruvannamalai, and attracts a
large number of worshippers. The goddess is one of the four brought into
existence by Brahama.

The Devikapuram village is about 14 KM to the east of Polur, the


nearest railway station is the Vilupuram – Katpadi railway line. The district
and the taluk headquarters are 48 Km and 21 KM away from this village
respectively. Buses from Madras, Arani, Sethuppattu and Polur pass through
this village.83

Generally people call this village in different names as “Devikapuram”.


Devakypuram”, “Devikizhpuram”, “kanagathiri” and “Kanagachalam” which
are also the other names found in the history of this Sthalam and in other
publications. The hill in this place is known as “Kanakagiri”. As this temple is

                                                            
82
. A.T.M. Panneerselvam, (1989), Sambuvarayargal, (Tamil) Amma Pathippagam,
Tiruvannamalai, pp. 33-34. 
83
. Census of India-1961, op., cit. p. 209. 
170 
 

at the bottom of the hill, it is also known as “Devikizhpuram”. According to the


“sthalapuranam” of this temple, there is also a legend that Devaki sister of
Kamsan came to this place and worshipped the Lord here and gave birth to
Krishna, hence the name “Devikapuram”. This place is further known as
“Kanakagiri” and “Kanakachalam” after the name of the hillock here. It is also
known as “Narayana vanam” in view of the temple of Sri Srinivasamurthy
found here. The name “Devikapuram” is found in the stone inscriptions of the
Sri Devi temple here.

Sri Kanagagiriswarar temple is at a height of about 400 feet, from the


mean sea level, in the up hills. It is said to have been built some 2,000 years
ago during the reign of the Pallava kings. It is also said that there are some
stone inscriptions in the Tanjore Samasthanam relating to its legendary
origin.84 It is said that a Pallava king constructed the temple when his vow
was fulfilled by the divine grace of the Lord. Thus the temple came into
existence.

There are several steps leading to the top of the hill. After few steps
one would find the Veera Badrar’s shrine, which is a specimen of
architectural beauty. Sri Aladi Vinayagar is installed mid way to the flight of
steps leading the uphill. On a rock, to the north of the hill top, are found two
beautiful foot prints of the Ambal. It is believed to be those of the Ambal who
did severe penance for Sri Ponmalainadhar, in a standing posture just in front
of the temple. There is a Thirty six Pillared mandapam bearing several
beautiful sculptures in all its Pillars. The temple is 140 feet long and 70 feet
wide.85 In the southern prakaram of the temple are found the Sannadhis of
Sri Visalakshi amman, Saptha Kanniars and Sri Dakshinamoorthy, while the

                                                            
84
. www.Deepamalai.com 
85
. R. Sankar, op., cit., p. 214. 
171 
 

Sannadhis of Sri Vinayagar and Sri Murugar are located in the western
prakaram.

Two lingams are in the sanctum sanctorum. The lingam at the rear is
Sri Kanagagiriswarar alias Ponmalainadhar, who is a 2 feet high Swayambu
Lingam. The first Linga dharshan in this temple is that of Sri Viswanadhar.
The notable features of the temple are, unlike other shrines, abishegam is
done to the deity here with hot water only instead of cold water and a number
of images of pigs are seen in the outer walls of the temple.86 It is a surmise
that the images of the pigs might have been inscribed on the walls to create
sentimental feelings among Muslim invaders so as to restrain them from
destroying the temple. The temple because of its architecture grandeur and
divine aspects attracts pilgrims and visitors from far and wide.

Tirumalai holy temple

There are famous Jain temples in Tondainadu and one of them is the
temple in Tirumalai which is in Polur taluk. The name Tirumalai refers to
small hill range and the adjacent village. It is 10.km from Polur. The place
where people were living was called Vaikavoor and the hill where temples
are found is called as Tirumalai since it is in Vaikavoor and it is also known
as Vaikavoor Tirumalai. In 1900 A.D Jainism was very popular in this area.
There is a wall around the temples that are found at the foot of the hill. When
we enter through the Raja (Main) gopura gate one is able to see the temple
for Varthamana Mahavira and there were many paintings on the walls of the
temples. But many of them have disappeared.87 Since this temple is not
much visited by people vehicles that are used during the festival season are
parked inside this place.
                                                            
86
. Census of India, (1961), op., cit. p. 209. 
87
. V. Mannar, (2007), Arani Oru Arimugam, (Tamil) Lavanya Publication, Tiruvannamalai,
pp. 29-30. 
172 
 

The next temple is of Neminathar and it was constructed by the Chola


Queen Kunthavai Pirattiyar and so it was called as Kunthavai Jinalayam. This
temple has Karuvarai, Antharalayam, Ardhamandapam, and
Mahamandapam. In the Karuvarai (sanctum) there is the beautiful form of
Neminathar built between 13th and 14th Century A.D, The Mahamandapa is a
beautiful mandapam with pillars which are square and hexagonal in shape.88

Venguneswarar temple at Venkundram

Just a Km from Thennangur enroute to Wandavasi, this Siva temple


called Venguneswarar temple at the top of a big and steep hill called
Venkundram can be seen from the road itself. It is a tough hill to climb and
there are no proper steps in most part of it. It will really be a thrilling and
adventurous trip for anyone to go there. Nobody is found in this temple at the
top. It seems there is no priest for the temple but a person comes to perform
pooja once in a month. It is an open temple with a Siva lingam, Murugan,
Vinayagar and some other deities.

Avaniyapuram Temples

Temples of Sri Lakshmi Narasimhar and Lord Venkateshwarar are twin


temples at Avaniyapuram (also called Nava Narasimhar temple and
Dakshina Ahobilam). Located at Avaniyapuram 25 KM from Wandavasi, en
route to Arani and Cheyyar Dam, this is a hill abode of two deities.89 One has
to climb 70 steps to reach the first deity, Lord Narasimha found in a small
cave (kudavarai koil), and ascend another 114 to have a dharshan of Lord
Venkateswara. The unique feature in the first temple is that along with
Narasimhar, the Mahalakshmi Thayar also has the face of a lioness. There

                                                            
88
. M. Banumathi, (2009), Tamil Mannargalin Veera Varalaru, (Tamil) Thamizhayya
Velieettagam, Thanjavur, p. 392. 
89
. Census of India, (1961), op., cit., p. 210. 
173 
 

are totally nine Narasimha deities in this temple and so called Nava
Narasimhar temple and Dakshina Ahobilam (the main one in Andhra Pradesh
with nine Narasimhars).

The abode of Lord Venkateswara is at the top. There is a separate


cave like enclosure in the prahara where we see Lord Varadaraja and
Perundevi Thayar. Lord Ranganatha is seen on his serpentine bed with
Ranganayaki Thayar. Sholingar yoga Narasimhar is in a sitting position here
along with Amirdavalli Thayar. Thus we see all the main pancha divya desa
moorthies–Kanchi, Srirangam, Sholingur, Tirumala and Ahobilam. Avani
means lion and the Lord is said to have obliged Brigu Maharishi by appearing
before him in the forms of five divya desa deities. The temple is believed to
have been built during the Pallava regime.90 It is heartening to note that all
the shrines in the hill temple are well maintained.

Seeyamangalam Cave temple

In the Wandavasi – Chetpet road, one has to travel for about 15 KMs
and at Mazhaiyur cross road, one should take a left turn (south) and travel
further for around 8 KMs via Desur to reach the beautiful Seeyamangalam
cave temple facing west. Here 27 inscriptions are recorded from Pallava
regime to the Pandiya rule. The statues of Dwarapalakas, Nataraja and Siva
as Rishabandaka are strikingly beautiful. In front of the garbhagraha,
mandapas were added during the period of the Cholas, Pandyas and
Vijayanagara rulers. A few hundred meters north of this temple in the slopes
of the hillock Jain relief works were carved during the Pallava period.91 They
are of historic importance and they are a feast to the eyes of Educational
tourists.
                                                            
90
. Lena Tamilvanan, (1988), Tamilaga Mavatta Nool Varisai, North Arcot District,
(Tamil) Manimekalai Pirasuram, Chennai, p. 17. 
91
. K. Baskaran, op., cit., p. 88. 
174 
 

Bheema falls

In the Bheema falls, in Jamunamaruthur, of Tiruvannamalai district


water flows approximately for 8 months of the year. It is believed that the
Pandavas came here and stayed for some time and the falls is named after
Bheema, one of the Pandavas.

The rocks looked deceptively easy to go down by, but have proved
fatal in the past. Somewhere down, one can see deep holes, and people
believe that these 10 feet holes were made because of Bheema knelt on the
ground there.

There is also one rock from where the fragrance of sambrani emanates
and people believe that this is because of the nature of the rocks. While
monkeys, deers, foxes and wild boars are common sights here, elephants
also occasionally come to this site. These are a grand sight to the tourist of
all kinds.92

The Sandal Hills

Javvadhu hill, 75 kms to the north west of Tiruvannamalai, is a part of


the Eastern Ghats, Standing at about 2300 to 3000 feet above sea level, it is
a home of several rare herbs.

It is also renowned for sandal wood trees and honey collection. It has
some scenic spots such as Bheema Falls, Kolappan Lake, Kavanur
Observatory and Amirthi Forest which attract all kinds of tourist from far and
wide.

                                                            
92
. www.tiruvannamalai.nic.in 
175 
 

Pygmy Caves (Vali Parai)

On the way to Javvadhu hills from Polur, after crossing Mel Chepli and
Keezh Chepli, a narrow passage leads up into the depth of the jungles
covering the hill, into the village of Vali Parai. A 10–kilometer trek through this
heavy foliage leads to yet another historical wonder–caves that are said to
have been inhabited by Kullars or pygmies, dating these caves back to
prehistoric periods.93 Stones are arranged in such a way that they stand on
their own weight, undisturbed for years together. We have similar structures
in Kodaikanal also. The pleasure tourists who visited this place had enjoyed
very much and they like to visit this place quite often.

Tipu Sultan Fort – Javvadhu Hills

The Tipu Sultan fort situated on a steep, more than 2500 feet high hill,
was a challenge that was well–worth for the adventure tourists. At the end of
the 15 kilometer trek, there are terracotta figurines, a stone for grinding, a
temple, an ordinance godown, tanks for king and queen and a building
believed to be a school. Located next to Athimur village in Polur–
Jamunamarathur road, this is another neglected structure.94 Yet, tourists like
to see the remnants of Tipu Sultan’s edifices though in dilapidated condition.

The Church for our lady of Lourdes

When North Arcot district was formed in 1801 Chetpet was the district
headquarters and retained the status for 30 years. Later Vellore became the
district headquarters. Chetpet houses a majestic Shrine dedicated to Our
Lady of Lourdes. The Shrine was built in 1876 as a small shed by Father
Jean Francis Maria Darras, a French missionary who dedicated his life for
the upliftment of the poor and needy. The Church continues to attract
                                                            
93
. K. Baskaran, op., cit., p. 87. 
94
. Ibid., p. 75. 
176 
 

thousands of devotees from near and far.95 It celebrates its annual feast in
February every year. But in 2010, it has been planned to celebrate it in May
so that large number of local people and tourists of all kinds could participate
and make the occasion a joyous one.

Sathanur Dam

Sathanur dam is today a great tourist attraction. The dam was


constructed over Pennai River in Thandarampattu taluk and the dam can be
reached by road 30 km from Tiruvannamalai town. This dam was completed
during the year 1957. Sathanur dam because of its beautiful surroundings
was the centre for many South India Cinema shootings. Most of the films
during 1960–1980 were shot here for some scenes in the films.96 The
beautiful gardens with colorful statues have been great attraction for
everyone.

It also has several parks, a mini zoo, play area, a swimming pool, a
large crocodile farm and a fish farm. Baby crocodiles here in the farm are a
sight to see. A visit to Sathanur dam is a useful one to the Engineering
students who want to know about the irrigation structures.97 Sathanur dam is
one of the beautiful dams in Tamil Nadu which is an attraction to all kinds of
tourists.

Located on Chennakesava hills, it has a capacity of 7321 million cubic


feet water storage (full level 119 feet). This dam is spread across 5000 acres.
Inside the dam one can travel in boat for 22 kilometers from the dam site.
Except for 2 days i.e. on Karthigai Deepam and the day after, fishing is done
using 30 Vallams (small boats) and the fish is sold locally as well as exported
                                                            
95
. www.tiruvannamalai.org 
96
. Go. Ms. No. 3516. Public Works Department, Government of Tamil Nadu, 13-9-1955. 
97
. Lena Tamilvanan, (1988), Tamilaga Mavatta Nool Varisai, North Arcot District,
(Tamil) Manimekalai Pirasuram, Chennai, p. 59. 
177 
 

to Kerala and West Bengal. Bathing here is prohibited because of


crocodiles.98

Undoubtedly this is one of the best tourist spots in Tamil Nadu and it
has beautiful gardens with colorful flowers and statues. There are a few small
dams in the district which include, Shanbaga Thoppu dam, Kupanatham Dam
in Chengam and Miruganda Nadhi Dam in Chengam-Polur stretch. All these
places have natural surroundings in the rural areas with beautiful ecological
systems. These are undoubtedly grand attractions to the lovers of tourism.  

                                                            
98
. Go. Ms. No. 2005. Public Works Department, Government of Tamil Nadu, 3-7-1959. 

You might also like