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Advanced Pattern Making Techniques: Pattern
Grading (VIDEO)
This post may contain af liate links, view my disclosure policy for details.
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Practical pattern grading techniques for the home sewist.
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Pattern grading doesn’t have to be hard! Have you been led to believe that it’s only for industry
professionals, or that you need some fancy software or elite knowledge to grade sewing
patterns? I’m here to tell you that you can grade patterns at home, easily!
It’s really not rocket science…It merely takes a little bit of sewing know-how and some simple
math! Let’s take a closer look.
What is pattern grading?
Pattern grading, most simply put, is the proportional increase, or decrease in the size of a
pattern. The purpose of grading is to t a range of body types and sizes from one base pattern
style. Each pattern piece is methodically increased or decreased to create a new size, while
keeping the same intended t, shaping, and proportion of the original base pattern.
Pattern grading should not be confused with pattern alterations. Alterations are the process of
making a pattern t the nuances of an individual body. Whereas, grading is the process of
creating a range of new sizes, or a size run.
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Important to note: It is important to note that a pattern is not uniformly graded, meaning…the
increase and decrease of all points do not uniformly grow or get smaller. The body doesn’t
change size in a uniform, even way. Just because my body gets wider, doesn’t mean it gets taller.
Make sense? Basically, everything does not equally get larger or smaller because the body
changes doesn’t not equally get larger or smaller. Keep reading for more details.
Commonly used pattern grading terminology
Grade – The ‘grade’ of a pattern is the incremental increase or decrease in a pattern size at a
given cardinal point. For example; a large majority of commercial patterns will have a 2″ grade.
This means that there is a 2″ difference between sizes.
Grading – The process of increasing or decreasing the dimensions of a base pattern style.
Cardinal Points – The points on a pattern where it either increases or decreases.
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Base pattern – The original pattern created (usually the middle of the size run). This is an
industry term. However, in the home setting…the base pattern would be whatever pattern you
are working with. For example, in the ITS Insider Exclusive Library….there are certain patterns
that are only offered in 1 size, a size 6. This would be your base pattern.
Trueing – is the process of smoothing and shaping angular and curved lines on a seam to create
a nice transition. Trueing includes checking to make sure seam lengths match, corners are 90°
angles where necessary, as well as folding darts to create proper seam pattern shape.
Size Run – The sizes included in a speci c style. For example; small, medium, large, xl…or, 4, 6, 8,
10, 12.
Cut and Spread | Cut and Overlap – The process of manually grading a sewing pattern by
cutting the pattern apart and increasing or decreasing its size.
Pattern Shifting – The process of manually grading by shifting a pattern back and forth
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increase or decrease its size.
Pattern Grading Methods for the home sewist
Cut and Spread | Cut and Overlap
The cut and spread|overlap method is the simplest, most accurate, and most intuitive method
that you can use at home. Basically, cut and spread or cut and overlap your pattern to create a
new size. It really is as simple as that! Of course, you’ll need to determine the amount of growth
for each cardinal point and where to draw your cut lines. But, that is it!!! See, easy!
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Pattern Shifting
Pattern shifting is the process of shifting the pattern horizontally and vertically along an axis to
increase or decrease the pattern size. While this method is seemingly easier… is a little less
accurate and a little more tricky to pull off. I prefer the previous method.
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Measuring the base pattern style
In order to start grading from a base pattern style, you’ll need to rst know the nished
measurements so you can determine how much or little to grade. Keep in mind, most patterns
already include seam allowance and you need to know the nished measurements of the
pattern. To do this, you can simply ‘spec’ the pattern by taking measurements of the pattern to
determining the length, width, etc. However, if you grade a commercial pattern, there is no
need to remove the seam allowance.
Establishing the grade
To establish the grade, you will need to determine how much your pattern needs to grow
between sizes. If you are using a commercial pattern, you can easily see the grade by looking at
the back envelope and studying the size chart. If you are not using a commercial pattern, or a
PDF pattern, you might have to make up a size chart that makes sense for the pattern you’re
working with. So, if your base pattern measures 34″ bust and you need a 40″ bust…the
difference is 6″. Then, this 6″ would need to be distributed evenly around the pattern. TOP
Keep in mind that when working with patterns, you will usually be using half of a pattern. So,
half of the front and half of the back. All together, there are usually 4 pieces. Remember that
when distributing your measurements. They will usually need to be divided into 4 parts. Like
mentioned above, if I need 6″ of growth, then I would need to add 3″ to the front and 3″ to the
back, right? Technically RIGHT, but….WRONG! I would need to add 1 1/2″ to the front and 1
1/2″ to the back….Why?! Because I am working with a 1/4 of a pattern, remember?!
It is important to note that grading to much (size 2 to size 14) is not recommended. Proportions
can get really weird when you try to do that. It is best to grade incrementally, keeping the
grading to a 2 or 3 size jump. So, if you wanted to grade a size 2 pattern to a size 14…You would
grade the size 2 pattern to a size 8 rst. Then grade size 8 to a 14.
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Advanced Pattern Making Techniques: How to grade a sewing pattern
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Tip: Sometimes a grade is ‘uneven’. For example, a dress might have an uneven grade if the bust
grade is 1″ between sizes, and the hip grade is 3″. It is best to keep things simple, and stick to
using an even grade. However, if you need to grade an ‘uneven’ pattern, it is best to split the
pattern apart at the waist and grade the bodice and skirt separately.
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For a more in depth tutorial, check out the Craftsy class on grading.
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Disclosure: Please note that some or all of the links contained in this post are af liate links, and
at no additional cost to you, I might earn a commission if you decide to make a purchase. Please
know that I have experience with all of these products and I feel con dent recommending them
to you because I have found them to be helpful and useful….Read more here.
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Filed Under: Advanced Pattern Making Techniques, Pattern Making
Tagged With: advanced techniques, af liate link, pattern grading, pattern making basics
Comments TOP
Hailey says
October 1, 2018 at 1:31 pm
I am grading a pattern for a swimsuit. How do I grade the crotch area? I do you just leave it
alone?
Reply
Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says
October 3, 2018 at 9:45 am
That’s a tough one. Honestly, I usually don’t grade it much in the width…Just give the body
length.
Reply
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Carmen Fashionista says
March 25, 2019 at 4:50 pm
You do not grade the crotch width….A woman crotch does not expand in width.
most crotch width are 2″ to 2 1/4″
I hope this helps.
Reply
Chloe says
February 9, 2018 at 1:32 pm
Hi Ruth,
So grateful to you for this article! I used to pass up on beautiful vintage patterns becauseTOP
they
weren’t my size and thought pattern grading was for the pros. Could you explain where exactly
to place the cardinal lines? Is there a rule of thumb for these line placements? A speci c
measurement to take into account?
Thanks,
Chloe
Reply
Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says
February 9, 2018 at 2:52 pm
Hi there,
Have a look at the illustration in the blog post. What type of garment is it that you’re
looking to grade?
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Chloe says
February 9, 2018 at 4:09 pm
I am looking to grade the blouse of a dress. I did see the illustrations denoting where
to place the lines, but wasn’t sure if you had done any measurements to decide the
exact location
Reply
Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says
February 10, 2018 at 10:02 am
Chloe, they can just be a general location – it’s more of an art than a science!
Reply
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Chloe says
February 13, 2018 at 12:02 pm
Good to know! Thanks
Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says
February 13, 2018 at 2:08 pm
Sure thing!
Janet Kelly says
July 8, 2017 at 12:46 pm
Hi, Ruth. I recently joined and love your site. I am sewing am EASY dress. I have addHow do I
determine the bust point?
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Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says
July 8, 2017 at 1:18 pm
Thanks Janet! The pattern probably has a bust point or apex marked. Often times, it’s a
circle with an X inside. If it isn’t marked. . . you’ll need to nd your own bust apex and
transfer that to the pattern. . .Measure from your high point of shoulder to the center of
the nipple, and the center of the nipple to the side seam and you should have your apex.
Reply
Maria says
July 7, 2017 at 5:30 am
if you wanted to grade a pattern designed from standard block starting at size 8 so….8 to 10 ,10
to 12, 12 to 14 etc… is the rule that each size goes up in an overall increase of 2inches orTOP
5cm
and if this is so does that include vertical and horizontal increases
Reply
Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says
July 7, 2017 at 9:02 am
Hi Maria,
There is no hard and fast rule for grading….Just as there is no ‘standard’ sizing. However, I
think a 2″ grade sounds reasonable. It doesn’t include the vertical….Generally, the vertical
wouldn’t grow at the same rate. Just because you get wider, doesn’t mean you get taller.
I’d say about 1/4″ maybe in the length.
Reply
SugarQueen says TOP
March 31, 2017 at 11:19 pm
Hey,
This is a long question. Thank you so much for this information. How do I choose
cardinal points, do I just pick any shoulder point, any waist point, etc to put the lines? Or is it
vital that there is a speci c measurement on the pattern that will become the cardinal point?
Also, I get the idea of the measurements needing to be divided but do not understand hot to do
that. I use a standard body measurement chart I found online to make slopers, when drafting
slopers I nd it is easier to refer to the chart rather than measuring every person I’m designing
for. The bust, waist, abdomen & hip measurements go up by:
This is an example of the bust measurements 1” 1” 1” 1 1/2” 1 1/2” 1 1/2” 2”
34 35 36 37 1/2 39 40 1/2” 42 1/2”
Say I have a pattern that is a size 34 (based off of bust measurement), and I want to make it a
size 36. I know 34 divided by 4 = 9 (If the original size of the pattern divided by 4 matters). & 36
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divided by 4 = 9.75 so how much would I add in-between each sliced line?
P.S. I am a beginner learning on my own very fast but of course some things I am still very
ignorant about (I’m even a little behind on converting calculator math to measurements, for
example would 39 divided by 4 just be 9 on a tape measure ignoring the decimals?)
I hope to hear from you soon, I’m grateful for your work thanks!
Reply
Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says
April 1, 2017 at 9:33 am
I will send you an e-mail.
Reply
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Francesca McKinney says
March 10, 2017 at 5:35 pm
I’m pretty new to sewing and this is such a helpful and easy to understand article about Grading
Patterns! I’m so happy to have stumbled across your blog! I can’t wait until you begin offering
patterns!
Reply
Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says
March 11, 2017 at 8:17 am
Thanks Francesca! I really appreciate the kind words.
Reply
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Deborah Irving says
February 14, 2017 at 9:43 pm
Thank you for this information it is clear and precise. In the past Ive had so much trouble trying
to t patterns that Ive given up. I really do love sewing so Ive decide to give it another go. I love
your site it’s so helpful. Thank you. Deborah
Reply
Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says
February 15, 2017 at 8:28 am
Deborah, Thanks so much for the kind words! Glad that I can help!
Reply
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