PODGORICA

Podgorica is the capital of Montenegro. Set at the middle part of

the country, an hour away from wonders of Adriatic coast on the
south or Alpine like mountains on the north, close, but still
away enough from the beautiful greenery of Skadar lake and
deprived of centuries-old cultural heritage of Montenegrin
dynasties that mostly belong to Cetnje, Podgorica is usually
known for being a crossroads, place that provides transportation
to and from more attractive destinations. Which is a shame!
Podgorica has so much more to offer and this town has surprising
qualities, no other capital in the region has. Nature escapes set
right in the middle of the city center and remains of Roman times
a minute away from the architectural evidence of the socialist
past! The climate here is quite exciting: Podgorica is known as
the wettest capital of Europe, but it belongs to the list of 10
sunniest, as well! Which basically means if it’s not raining cats
and dogs- then there’s sunshine all over the place for sure!
Spring and early autumn offer amazing weather with sunny but not
too hot days, maybe some cloud or light, pleasurable showers.
People shine with true Montenegrin temperament which manifests
through sitting at the street-side cafes and calling out jokes to
each other or even passer-by! That’s why there’s gonna be more
than one café on this list of 10 places to do and visit in
Podgorica by a local.

1. Skaline historical sight

Set at the city center, on the mouth of river Ribnica to Morača,
Skaline (archaic for stairs) are quite easy to reach. As Morača
is a deep canyon river, to get to its banks one takes the stairs,
leading to this wonderful place set in nature, that feels miles
away from civilization, let alone the center of one capital. Some
of the oldest remains of Podgorica are to find here: the oldest
bridge in Podgorica Pašin most on the mouth of Ribnica river to
Morača, dating back to Roman times and remains of the Turkish
fortress from the 15th century. It is maybe the most romantic
setting in the city, with the bridge, tall trees, beach, rugged
cliffs all around, and green as the most beautiful jade Morača
river wildly flowing towards the south. On the opposite cliff
there’s maybe the biggest architectural masterpiece of
Montenegro- hotel Podgorica, perfectly fitted into the
surrounding landscape. Unfortunately, view towards it has been
recently spoiled by the unscrupulous local authorities allowing
modern skyscraper to be built just behind the hotel.
When the weather is nice, various concerts or stage plays take
place on Skaline. Outdoors café works during spring, summer and
early autumn, and the beach can be quite full on a hot day. Just
past the fortress remains up, there’s another attraction of the
city, point number 2.

2. Stara Varoš- Old Part of Podgorica

Stara Varoš (archaic for Old Town), is the historical center of
the city. Placed just a way up from the Skaline, it is made of
old, stone houses and cobblestone. Osmanagić Mosque and Sahat
Kula (Tower Clock) are the biggest attraction built in the 17th
century by Mehmed- Paša Osmanagić when Montenegro was under the
rule of Turks.
We must admit that Stara Varoš is not as impressive as the old
seaside towns but definitely has its own charms. It possesses way
more of a local quality than seaside tourist hubs like Kotor- no
crowds here, just relaxed locals strolling around, talking,
drinking café and rakija in a few of the old kafanas- which is a
traditional Balkan tavern traditionally offering just homemade
rakija and Turkish coffee.
Pod Volat is the favorite café restaurant of the locals and
tourists alike due to low prices and good quality of the food,
especially Balkan’s meaty delis, such as ćevapi or Podgorica
popeci. Enjoying trademark Podgorica’s food in a lively garden
with a view towards Sahat Kula makes a true Podgorica experience!

3.Hotel Podgorica
Built in 1967 by Svetlana Kana Radevic, the “first lady” of
Montenegrin architecture, this building is one of the biggest
representatives of Yugoslavian modernist architecture and
definitely a trademark building of Podgorica. Built right at the
cliff of Moracha river's gorge, the hotel is perfectly set in the
surrounding landscape, its layered terraces almost imitating
sharp cliffs of Morača, with pebbles from the shore covering part
of the facade. It seems like an innate part of the canyon of
Morača. Not only is this building such a marvelous view from
outside, but its terraces offer a true pleasure, with the
construction that uses the most of the Podgorica’s plentiful
sunshine and a proper “river” experience with a unique view
towards the above-mentioned Stara Varoš and Skaline. This view
from Hotel Podgorica encompassing Roman and Turkish remains and
the wild landscape all around, truly confirms that Podgorica has
the potential of a remarkable tourist destination.

4. Gorica- Nature escape at the city center

Podgorica literally means “Under the hill”, the word “gorica”
being diminutive of the hill or woods. So-called “lungs of the
city” Gorica is a truly refreshing oasis of nature, thanks to the
generations of teenagers of Yugoslavian Podgorica (then called
Titograd) whose task was to afforest this originally bare
landscape. Nowadays it is the trademark hill of Podgorica, placed
almost right at the city center. Hill is completely covered in
the tall forest, with pleasant and wide walking zones that lead
to the top of the hill. This is definitively one of the favorite
relaxation places of the locals. Gorica is home to many endemic
and endangered species and there are boards with the pictures and
descriptions for those who are interested. This is also the place
of a memorial complex- Monument to Partizan Fighters. Built in
1957, this is a huge beautiful marble construction on two levels
made by famous architect Vojislav Djokic and sculptor Drago
Djurovicć. Heroes of 97 nations are buried here.
Another attraction placed in the forest an Adventureure Park,
which offers few tracks for adults and children. Placed in this
ambiance is a “mountain style” café, built of wood- perfect for
the enjoyment of the surrounding nature while sipping Turkish
coffee.
.

5. Church of St. George

This church is the oldest temple in Montenegro. Although there
are no historical sources about its construction it is believed
to be about 900 years old. It has been providing uninterrupted
religious service during all this time. The architecture of the
building represents a very old orthodox Christian style. Medieval
murals inside depict scenes from the life of St. George.
The church is placed at a peaceful and wide area surrounded by
trees just under the hill of Gorica, 5 minutes from the city
center. It is believed that the walls of the church hide a secret
passage that leads right to the shores of Morača river.

6. Šipčanik Wine Cellar

Šipčanik is one of the three wine cellars of the Montenegrin wine
company “Plantaže” , that takes credits for placing Montenegro
and its autochthonous sort of grape and red wine “Vranac” on the
map of European wine tourism.
Šipčanik is quite a unique wine cellar due to the past of the
space it occupies- it used to be a secret underground aircraft
hangar during the times of the Yugoslavian country. Along this
356 meters long tunnel there are numerous oak barrels with over 2
million liters of wine aging inside. The smell of these barrels
combined with constant temperature of 17 degrees makes this
ambiance a real pleasure for senses. Plantaže winery offers a few
different kinds of wine tours to Šipčanik some of which include
bites of traditional food or a proper lunch at thiS unique
setting.

6. Dajbabe Tower
This radio frequency tower built on the hill Dajbabska Gora is 55
meters tall, construction thus providing an amazing view of the
city. Unfortunately, for now it is not open for the public,
although few NGO tried to change that. Anyway tower is of an
interesting architecture and looks like some futuristic NLO.
Although built between 2008- 2011, tower appears to be from
Yugoslav era. Emphasized geometry and shape allude on modernist
architecture in socialist countries.
Although locals and tourist alike wait for the tower’s opening,
sight from the hill Dajbabska Gora is impressive enough. Not only
the whole Podgorica spreads beneath, but also Lake Skadar,
surrounding mountains and even part of Albania.
 8. Monument to Fallen Fighters Barutana
Projected by above mentioned Svetlana Kana Radević, the lady
taking credits for the hotel Podgorica, and one true genius of
Montenegrin architecture, Barutana complex is dedicated to
soldiers and civilians from Lješanska nahija region who lost
their lives in three big wars that took place in this region. The
complex is placed just a few km outside of Podgorica. It is one
of the representatives of abstract awe-inspiring war monuments
ex-Yugoslavian countries are just starting to be famous for. And
while monuments in nearby countries such as Kosmaj and Tjentište
received huge media coverage and even depiction in pop culture,
Montenegrin authorities didn’t really try to put Barutana on the
map of this “rediscovered” Yugoslavian heritage. The complex is
beautifully fitted into the surrounding landscape, and it seems
like an almost ingrown part of the surrounding karst area. It is
made of four parts, one for each of the three wars, and the main,
bigger one with rounded chairs auditorium made of stone, facing
the main sculpture, inviting spectators for togetherness in a
remembrance. The sculpture itself is a solemn postmodernist
concrete construction suggesting the shape of a torch, forever
burning for the victims towards the skies.

9. Karver- Old Turkish Bath cafe

Placed right at the gorge of Ribnica river, this old Turkish bath
(hammam) Banja was turned into the most authentic place in
Podgorica- a café- bookstore Karver on three floors and beautiful
garden, right on the shore of Ribnica river surrounded by a wide
courtyard with trees. This is one of the best places to enjoy
café rituals while reading the best world literature (there are
books available in English). In the summer and spring evenings,
Karver organizes various musical and literary events. The
building dates back to Turkish times, and after the liberation,
at the beginning of the 20th century it served for various
purposes, mostly as a gathering place of Podgorica’s most famous
choir “Stanko Dragojevic”. Upon unfortunate construction of the
bridge due to which the dome was “purposefully” devastated which
once again shows recklessness of the authorities, the building
became this completely new creative hub that places contemporary
and urban purpose within preserved Ottoman architecture.
Although placed almost at the city center and easily reachable,
it is hidden from the plain sight by the Novi (the New) bridge,
so a lot of locals don’t even know there’s wonderful oasis down
there.

10. Centre of the Contemporary Art, Kruševac

The most important building of Montenegrin Center of Contemporary
Art, Perjančki Dom set at the middle of the pleasant park
Kruševac, used to be the winter palace of the royal Petrović
family. The building is from the 19th century and represents
cultural heritage. A chapel and a few smaller buildings also
belong to the complex. It is the most important gallery nowadays,
hosting new shows on a monthly basis. The best of the prominent,
as well as new-coming Montenegrin and regional artists, exhibit
here. Montenegro really has a long tradition of genius visual
artists such as Miodrag Dado Đurić and Petar Lubarda.
Contemporary artists have indeed a big task of leveling up to
these titans of the 20th century, and they are truly doing it!

This selection purposefully includes the best of Podgorica’s

architecture and all the places above can be reached by a walk
from the center, except for Šipčanik and Barutana, which require
a 20min ride. These sights represent the heart of Podgorica’s
cultural heritage, that has been devastated numerous times during
all the wars and what is way worse- neglected by local
authorities who have never put an effort to maintain this
heritage in a shape that would make them a tourist attraction- on
the contrary. Above mentioned hotel Podgorica, was saved from
demolition by huge effort of young educated people who
persistently protested until managing to wake up Montenegrin
media, and finally common sense of the whole nation. Barutana
monument’s popularity is just starting to raise due to the group
of young people who organized techno parties in order to collect
the money for the maintenance of the complex. Never would anybody
know that Hammam existed in the Ottoman Podgorica if the creative
idea of an individual didn’t come true. Citizens have been
fighting for the Gorica, almost for 10 years now, since
authorities have the plan to devastate it in order to build a
tunnel.
Bearing this in mind, tourists might see Montenegrin capital with
new eyes. Behind the concrete walls of socialist buildings that
spread all over the town live people who know that Podgorica has
its own story, brutally beautiful, if only for their love and
willingness to fight for it.