Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.

(Textile)

Loom: Loom is machine or device which is used to produce woven fabric. It is the central point
of whole process of cloth production. In other word, a loom is a mechanism or tool used for
weaving yarn and thread into textiles. Looms vary in a wide assortment of sizes. They come in
huge free standing hand looms, tiny hand-held frames, to vast automatic mechanical tools. A
loom can as well pertain to an electric line construction like that of a wiring loom. The main task
of looms is to clutch the twist threads under pressure to enable the progress of interweaving of the
woof strands. The loom's system and exact form can differ to some extent; however it still
performs the basic application.

Classification of a Loom:

Manual/Hand loom
1. Primitive or Vertical loom.
2. Pit loom: a) Throw shuttle.
b) Fly shuttle.
3. Frame loom: a) Throw shuttle.
b) Fly shuttle.
4. Chittaranjan loom.
Power loom
1. Conventional power loom: a) Ordinary power loom
b) Automatic power loom
2. Modern loom: a) Air jet loom
b) Water jet loom.
c) Rapier loom.
d) Projectile/Missile loom.
e) Multiphase loom.

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

1. Primitive or Vertical loom.

Primitive or Vertical loom: A primitive loom is generally by sinking the frame into
the ground and the work inside the pit by both feet. The framework is of bamboo. This
loom had been known to be in use in 5000 to 6000 years B.C. This loom are still used for
weaving silk pieces ,silk shirting and sarees, muslim, etc.by derivative weavers.

Feature:
 This type is loom used for finer yarn.
 This loom has to be known to be in use 600 yarn B.C
 This is throw shuttle loom

 Made of wood or metal

 It must be heavy and smooth

Advantage:
 First fabric is produce

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

 By skilled labour we can get very quality fabric

 Set-up cost is very low

 Primitive loom can work with dobby & jacquard attachment

Disadvantage:
 Slay are suspended from the top and its action is very weak eausing compact or
heavy cloth

 Warp thread are drawn direct from the warp beam

 Primitive loom accommodative a small can weft.

2. Pit loom

Pit loom: This loom is created by sunking four posters into the ground and with an
overhang sley.The thread work inside the pit,so that the warp threads may absorb
moisture and better weaving will result.In this loom the combination of sley & shuttle
boxes.In 1733 A.D John kay of Bury,England invented the"Fly Shuttle".This invention
wsa an extreamlyn important event in the history and development of weaving.

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

Feature:
 It fly shuttle loom

 Its production is double because by the introduction of sley,shuttle-boxes

 An average weaver cans weave a medium width fly-shuttle loom at 80-110 pics per
minute.

 Shuttle is transfer one box to another box

 To control moisture loom are settled in floor that way yarn can get moisture

 By this loom we get texture fabric.

Advantage:
 Production is high

 Moisture can easily control

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

 May produce texture fabric

 An average weaver can weave

 Fly shuttle pit-loom,back and beastbeams have been introduced to remove this
dificulties like(knot,yarn breakage etc)

 Can accommodate a greater quality of weft in the pirn.

Disadvantage:
 Difficult to control more number of heald shaft

 This is one kind of hand loom so large scale production is impossible

 To set the loom is difficult.

3. Frame loom:

Frame loom: Frame looms almost have the similar mechanisms that ground looms
hold. The loom was made of rods and panels fastened at the right angles to construct a
form similar to a box to make it more handy and manageable. This type of loom is being
utilized even until now due to its economy and portability.

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

Feature:
 This type of loom made on a frame

 The movement of the slay is given by the left hand of the weaver

 Twill,satin other weave more number may produce

 Beam dia may highnby weaving

Advantage:
 It has a increased speed as one hand of the weaver operates the picking handle
and the other remains free to operate the slay

 Fabrics of long width can as conveniently be woven as narrow ones

 Larger number of heald can conveniently be operated

 Ensure better selvedge

 Let off is done with a pawl lever arrangement.

Disadvantage:
 Cloth beam dia increase and make it very large

 Difficult to fit the level

 Fabric may compact

4. Chittaranjan loom.
Chittaranjan loom:A type of semiautomatic loom of sturdy construction made of
iron and wood commonly used in Bengal is known as Chittarangan loom.This loom also
called Japani loom.

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

Feature:
 The principle characteristics of this loom lie in its beating up take up and let off
motion

 For beat up two wheels upon the top shaft connect the slay at two ends with two
livers

 A five wheel positive take-up motion has been aadopted to regulate pics per inch

 Production rate is high

 Shedding & picking motion in this loom work as fly shuttle loom.

Advantage:
 An average can conveniently run this loom

 In 80 percent Efficiency this loom run at 120 to 140 picks per minute

 It ensure uniformity in the inserstion of picks per inch by the use of five wheel positive
take up motion

 It also ensure uniform beat up

 It is more suitable for weaving medium and coarse fabric then finer ones

 The sweep of slay to produce terry piles

Disadvantage:

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

 This is not a automatic loom

 Five wheel positive take up motion is use which give jerky motion

 Precise control of fraction of pic k is not possible

 Production rate is less over then modern loom

5.Hattersley Loom
Hattersley Loom:In 1856 hattersley and hill of kighley,Yourkshire act in the same
manner as a power loom excepting the movement of the slay which may either be
operated manually or by motive power to the top shaft,but the loom is constructed with
lighter foming.

Feature:
 Tis is the same manner of power loom

 This loom is lighter then power loom

 Shdding,picking,beating up,taking up and let off motions are automatically

 For take up five wheel take up motion is used.

 Shedding is the formed from the bottom shaft in case of plane weave.

Advantage:
 Maximum motion are motive by power

 This loom is lighter then power loom

 It also ensure uniform beat up

 It ensure unifprm insertion of pick

 An average weaver can conveniently run this loom.

Disadvantage:
 For driving manually more than 50'' read space is not control

 An weaver can not weave a long time

 Five wheel take up give jerkey motion

Power loom
Power Loom: This type of loom is not drive by hand only eclectic power is used.

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

Modern
loom
6. Air
jet loom

Air jet loom:

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

Feature:
 Power consumption less
 Much production std.fabric and light to medium fabric produced
 Air jet std.width 190 cm.
 Highest weft insertion performance(600 ppm)
 Multi color weft insertion up to 8.

Advantage:
 Air jet standard. width 190 cm.

 Power consumption less

 Highest weft insertion performance(600 ppm)

 Noise levels is lower than missile and rapier loom.

Disadvantage:
 Due to air resistance there form pile up and buckle tip of yarn

 Some times there is formed loom of weft yarn along weft direction due to
variation of air pressure.

 Double pick may occurred

 Excess air pressure of main nozzle cause miss pick or broken pick.

7. Water jet loom

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

Water jet loom:A pre measured length of filling yarn is carried across the loom by a
jet of water.It can produce superior quality of fabrics.

Feature:
 This type of loom is suitable for non absorbent fibre like synthetic fabric

 Less power consumption

 Highest weft insertion (600 ppm)

 weft yarn package weight 3.6-4.1 kg

 Treated water are used by pump nozzle.

Advantage:
 Less power consumption

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

 Production rate is high

 Noise level is lower then missile and rapier loom

 This type of loom is suitable for non absorbent fibre like synthetic fibre.

Disadvantage:
 Not suitable for absorbent fibre like (cotton)

 By hard water may form rust on the yarn.

8. Rapier loom

Rapier loom:These loom are competitors to the missille looms.There are two types
of rapier looms.Long rapier & double rapier long/single rapier that carries the weft across
the width from one side of the loom to another.Double rapier that is one on each side of
the loom.One rapier feed the filling yarn half way through the shed of warp yarn to the
arm the other side,which reach in and takes it across the rest of the way.

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

Feature:
 Fancy fabric produced
 Production costly
 Power consumption moderate
 Simple mechanism
 Suitable for weft patterning
 Standard rapier width 190 cm.

Advantage:
 Fancy fabric produced

 Production costly

 Suitable for weft patterning

 Power consumption moderate

 Simple mechanism

 Production speed (200-260 ppm)

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

Disadvantage
 Noise level is high then jet loom

 Production speed is less then jet loom.

9. Projectile Loom

Projectile Loom: This picking action is accomplished by a series of small bullet

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

Feature:
 Accommodator used reduce tension

 Power consumption is less (3 kw-hr)

 No. of projectile 11 to 17

 Width minimum 190 cm

 Width maximum 540 cm

 Multiple fabric produce

 Double beam single fabric can be produced in projectile.

Advantage:
 Fashionable fabric may produce

 Drawing-in pinning of drop wires and knotting are accepted prectice

 The weft and warp stop motions actuate first and reliable

 Simple to operate and maintain

 Less noisy then shuttle looms.

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

Disadvantage:
 Require skilled personnel

 High initial investment

 High noisy than jet loom

 It lasted long.

Special Loom

Multiple shuttles loom: More than one tape is produce. More than one shuttle is
used, Shuttle are traverses on belt No. of shuttle tapes are placed on race boared grove
length of shuttle=3", length of pirn =2"

Needle loom: This type of loom, one angular needle always carries the yarn
horizontally. Weft yarn comes from the top of the machine; latch needle makes the loop
at one side of the selvedge. No. of tapes/one loom obtained.

Conclusion: Loom is machine or device which is used to produce woven fabric. By

REFERENCE

 Webpage

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Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Engr.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile)

 http://www.projectile loom.com
 http://www.Rapier loom.com
 http://www.Water jet loom.com
 http://www.power loom.com
 http://www.chemheritage.org.com
 Books

 Weaving Mechanism, N.N.Banerjee

 Studies in Primitive looms, H. Ling Rock

 Fabric Manufacturing Technology-IV, Md. Al-Amin Sheikh

 Weaving Machine, mechanism & Management, Talukder

 Special Fabric Production, Md. Al-Amin Sheikh

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