An Introduction to Mountaineering
Objectives:
1. Discuss the nature of Mountaineering;
2. Distinguish the types of Mountaineering;
3. Explain how to optimize the energy systems for safe and improved performance;
4. Identify personal safety protocol to avoid any injury; and
5. Recognize one’s potential for health- and recreation-related career opportunities.
What exactly is mountaineering?
Technically, anybody could walk to the top of a mountain but this would not make them a
mountaineer. Mountaineering can best be described as the ascent of any hill or mountain
where the gradient and severity of the terrain requires some form of climbing and the
sustained use of technical equipment.
In summer, this equipment can include a helmet, rope, harness, karabiner and protective
climbing equipment, and in winter will include the addition of crampons, an ice axe and
protective ice-climbing equipment.
Mountaineering will inevitably involve periods of hill walking but what distinguishes these
two activities is whether you need to use technical equipment in order to reach your
objective: the summit!
How can you benefit from mountaineering?
There are numerous benefits to mountaineering. The most obvious benefits are improving
both your physical fitness and cardiovascular fitness levels as well as reducing body fat
through aerobic exercise. Some other less obvious or ‘less tangible’ benefits include
greatly improving your own personal confidence and team working skills, which you will
use in your work and personal life without even realizing it!
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Why would anyone want to do it?
Ask the majority of mountaineers why they pursue the sport and many would struggle to
come up with a logical answer as to why they devote many hours, days and sometimes
months to, basically, climbing a lump of rock! But mountains have always held a
considerable fascination to people for many different reasons.
Mountains present a challenge to the adventurous, a release to the mystic and an arena
for the sportsman. Different people are drawn to different activities for many reasons so
what would draw someone to go mountaineering? Mountaineering is as much a spiritual
pursuit as it is a physical one. Often you will experience personal joy and sadness, triumph
and defeat but always developing that spirit to surmount the insurmountable. Few people
wake up one day deciding to try mountaineering, more often it is a natural progression for
either a hill walker or a rock climber to pursue their enjoyment further.
How much time does it take?
A mountaineering route could be as short as a few hours of climbing to reach a summit
to then descend by walking down. This could be extended to day-long or multi-day
ascents. At the other extreme, mountaineering routes can literally take months. But
remember, the quality of a climb is not just determined by the altitude climbed, but by a
number of other factors.
Many mountaineers become obsessed with ‘bagging’ some of the world’s 8,000m (5 mile)
peaks (all located in the Himalayas). Some equally challenging but more enjoyable routes
are to be found on many other peaks around the world. The sheer remoteness of some
of the world’s mountain peaks means that no transportation can get you easily to your
route meaning the only way there is weeks of trekking.
Once on a mountain, ascent at altitude means that time must also be taken to let the body
adjust and acclimatize to working in a thinner atmosphere with less oxygen (any ascent
over 5,000m or 1.86 miles can be considered high enough to cause altitude related
problems).
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What does mountaineering feel like?
Mountaineering often involves a whole spectrum of emotions and sometimes they can all
collide at once! Words cannot describe the sense of freedom you get when you are
ascending a mountain. It is truly a spiritual experience leaving you feeling really alive! You
will find out a lot about yourself, some inner strengths you never even knew were there
as well as developing new strengths.
On any ascent there will be good times and bad times too, that’s what makes the sport
so personally challenging and character building. You may experience times when you
ask yourself ‘Why am I doing this?’ But those moments pass to be replaced by great
feelings of achievement that will stay with you forever.
Who can do mountaineering?
There are no real age barriers to entering into the world of mountaineering (anyone under
16 should clearly be supervised by a qualified adult). The only real barrier to
mountaineering is the need for a moderate level of physical fitness but even this will
develop as you progress in the sport and your routes become harder and more sustained.
Do you have to go on a course to participate in
mountaineering?
Mountaineering is a pursuit that should never be undertaken without a good
understanding of the many different aspects involved, ranging from map reading and
navigation skills to rope work and understanding mountain weather. Friends often teach
each other, passing their knowledge on, but the time and money invested in a course is
more than well spent. Courses are very reasonably priced and you should definitely
consider booking up with a reputable organization offering expert advice.
Types of mountaineering
Different styles or methods of mountaineering have evolved over the years. The main
impetus behind this evolution in styles of climbing has been the massive advances in
mountaineering equipment.
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The advent of the likes of Gore-tex, tough lightweight plastics, carbon fibre, extremely
strong but lightweight metal alloys, pre-packaged high-energy foods, and improved
stoves and tents, all mean that the large and slow expedition-style ascents of yesteryear
are now giving way to fast lightweight ascents. Routes that once took days using old
equipment and climbing methods are now being ascended in a matter of hours!
Three general types of mountaineering now exist:
Alpinism
• Alpinism is a type of mountaineering, originally developed by alpine guides but now used
extensively to ascend ‘low level’ routes (below 5,000m or 3.1 miles in altitude).
• The majority of mountaineering routes around the world, are classed as low-level
mountaineering (sub 5,000m).
• Previous climbing generations carried a lot of equipment and many accidents were borne
from the sheer weight of kit being carried and the slow progress of ascent.
• The essence behind alpine-style climbing is to move quickly by carrying minimal climbing
protective equipment and bivouac equipment, keeping weight to a minimum and adopting
the attitude that ‘fast is safe’.
• Alpinism requires all members of the party to be able to move over difficult terrain with
speed and competence.
High Altitude Mountaineering
• Mountaineering above 5,000m is affected by altitude, weather, access and sustained
climbing on snow and ice.
• High altitude mountaineering requires a mixture of determination, patience, fearlessness,
caution, careful planning but the ability to make snap decisions.
• Traditionally this type of mountaineering has made the use of expedition or ‘siege’ style
tactics to carry vast amounts of bivouac equipment and food, and establish camps at
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different altitudes on the climb, necessary to allow party members to acclimatise to the
changes in altitude.
• Alpine-style climbing is now creeping into the world of high-altitude mountaineering with
many day-long routes now being ascended in just hours. But fast and lightweight ascents
cannot be undertaken by anyone as most people succumb to rapid gains in altitude. Also,
lightweight ascents run high risks if anything should go wrong.
Ultra-Lightweight Mountaineering
• Reserved for the more intrepid mountaineers, where climbers ascend high altitude peaks,
using modern lightweight equipment in very short times.
It’s recommended to start with alpine mountaineering, as diving in at the deep end can
have some severely adverse effects. Start off with lower altitudes with easier routes, and
slowly build your way up as your experience grows.
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Tips for Mountaineering
Whether looking to climb mountains in this country or overseas, your body is sure to face
some key fitness battles so you need to be properly prepared for what you might face,
including potential emergencies.
Training for mountaineering: Mountaineering is a pursuit that should never be undertaken
without a good understanding of the many different aspects involved, ranging from map
reading and navigation skills to rope work and understanding mountain weather.
Preparation and planning: Take time to plan and prepare for your ascent. This will be
time well spent and the chances of your having a successful and enjoyable ascent will be
far higher if you have prepared well. Take time to plan your route and prepare your kit
regardless of whether you’re going for a short climb or a two-month expedition, some
careful planning can make all the difference. As well as careful planning, always check
your kit before you leave.
Footwear for mountaineering: Make sure you invest in a good pair of rugged
mountaineering boots. For summer mountaineering you can get away with a stiff pair of
walking boots, but for winter mountaineering a crampon rated boot will be needed.
Food for mountaineering: Make sure to carry plenty of food (and water) on any
mountaineering trip. Food needs to be high in energy and lightweight. Many high-energy
bars and pre-packaged meals are now available. It is essential on any mountaineering
trip to carry emergency rations in case you are on the mountain for longer than
anticipated.
Weather watching: Before embarking on any mountaineering trip make sure you get a
local weather forecast. You can always postpone a summit attempt for another day, with
more favorable weather conditions. However, once you are on a mountaineering route
you will often be committed with little options for retreat so checking the weather in
advance is a must!
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Emergency shelter: Too many completely avoidable accidents and injuries occur in
mountaineering because people simply underestimate the awesome forces of mountain
weather. Always carry an emergency shelter, they are small and lightweight but can be
life savers, protecting you from the elements should the weather suddenly turn. There are
many shelters available from two-person to large group shelters.
Actions for an emergency: Nobody wants to think that an accident will ever happen to
them but it would be foolhardy to think that this will always be the case. Take some time
to prepare for, and practice actions on different types of emergencies. High levels of
training mean you will react without having to think, which is beneficial since decision-
making abilities are severely impaired in stressful conditions.
In a mountaineering emergency:
• Don’t rush, remain calm. Otherwise a minor mishap could escalate into a major incident.
• Quickly assess the casualty’s condition.
• Determine if they can be treated and evacuated by the party or if external assistance is
required.
• Call for external assistance if it is needed using your phone. If you have no signal then
someone needs to leave to get help.
• Never leave a casualty unattended unless it is completely unavoidable i.e. if climbing as
a pair. At least two fit and reliable members of the party should be sent. Write down the
grid-reference and a description of the location as well as the casualty’s injuries to take
to the rescue services. (A GPS receiver can prove invaluable in determining your exact
location to give to rescue teams.)
• Move the casualty to shelter and keep them warm, hydrated and reassured. However,
NEVER move a casualty if you suspect any spinal injuries.
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• Never move far from your ascent route as this is where mountain rescue teams will focus
their search. If you need to find shelter then leave a sign indicating your direction to the
rescue team.
Emergency communications:
• Means of communication: Always take your phone with you (sealed in a waterproof
bag) when you are mountaineering. In the event of an emergency it will save valuable
time if you are able to contact the emergency services immediately. Be aware that
network signal strength can be non-existent in some remote areas. For such expeditions,
radios are essential as they enable party members to communicate when out of sight of
each other on the mountain, but also to radio for assistance if it is needed.
• Be safe: Mountaineering is an enjoyable pastime but there are inevitable dangers
involved. The risk of accident or injury will be severely reduced if you start off by planning
short, easy ascents and then gradually increase your route severity as your experience
and confidence grow. If you push too hard too soon, this is how accidents inevitably
happen, putting yourself, rescue teams and other climbers all at risk. Plan according to
your ability and always to the ability of the weakest member in a group.
• First aid: It is well worth taking the time to invest in some basic first aid training as this is
useful knowledge to have (not only for mountaineering but for every day occurrences).
Always carry a personal first aid kit (mountain leaders will always carry a more
comprehensive kit)
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Ten Essential Systems
1. Navigation: map, compass, altimeter, GPS device, personal locator beacon
(PLB) or satellite messenger
2. Headlamp: plus extra batteries
3. Sun protection: sunglasses, sun-protective clothes and sunscreen
4. First aid: including foot care and insect repellent (as needed)
5. Knife: plus a gear repair kit
6. Fire: matches, lighter, tinder and/or stove
7. Shelter: carried at all times
8. Extra food: Beyond the minimum expectation
9. Extra water: Beyond the minimum expectation
10. Extra clothes: Beyond the minimum expectation
***Personally, whenever I go out for a hike or other recreational activities, I multiply the
number of days into three to determine how many clothes and food I will bring.
Example, if the hike will last for a day, I will bring three clothes and food good for three
days.
Reference:
www.readbuzz.com
www.rei.com
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