पहचान
A DOCUMENT ON SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING
SUBMITTED BY -
APARNA SARDAR
DIXHA RANI
ITISIKTA PANI
MANSI GAUTAM
MUNJULURI BHAVAGNYA
NABARUPA BOSE
INTRODUCTION
Tulsipur is one of the villages among the TRB ( Tulsipur Ragadi Brahmapur)
cluster located in Banki, Cuttack, Odisha. The cluster solely practices weaving
which was established in the year 1955. It started with weaving of saree with
coarse count 2/40 including 20 trained or semi trained weavers. In the
present day 265 weavers are involved, out of which 200 are males and 65 are
females. It is practised by a Rangani caste.
The cluster is not only limited to
saree, it now produces lungi, napkin,
bedsheet, cushion covers, curtains
as well. It expanded its domain to
weaving around 2016. Since 1955,
the cluster has been made familiar
with several schemes to help the
weavers society. Some of them are
SAGAR, CATD (Computer aided
textile design), CFC (Common facility
centre). They have received several
trainings on tying and dyeing, ikat
weaving, natural dyes, etc.
They price range of a saree varies from Rs 500- Rs 1500. They sell each of their
products with 17% profit to various local markets, boyanika and private merchants.
They also display their work at exhibitions held in Bhubaneshwar, buyer seller meet,
Delhi haat and several other places. The government provides them loom and other
equipment under registration and the threads are sourced from NHDC (National
handloom development corporation). Sometimes the dyed yarns are sourced from
Nuapatna and the weavers warp and weave it into a ikat saree. They use naphthol
and vat dyes for primary dyeing of the yarns.
The length of the saree is 6 meters and it takes an average of 6-7 hours for the
making of one saree. A weaver can make upto 15 sarees per month with an
average wage of Rs 300-Rs 400 per day. Each weaver is provided with
electricity, glasses and other facilities by the govt. They also receive Rs 1,20,000
for workshed and housing. At present, there are 50 looms in the village of
Tulsipur. Designer Sanghamitra Pattnaik once produced 15 of her designs in
Tulsipur.
SUSTAINABILITY IN TEXTILES Over the world and since forever, textiles have been the base
of the absolute most rewarding economies and systems of
trade on the planet. Sustainable textiles begin with sustainable
materials. Many of our modern textiles are created using
synthetic textiles. Many people don't realize this, but most
synthetic materials are developed using petroleum.
Petroleum-based fibres include polyester, nylon, and spandex.
However, petroleum, which may be naturally limited in quantity
and inherently extractive, may not be sustainable. Natural
materials tend to be much more sustainable. However, some
materials are more sustainable than others. Hemp, bamboo,
and soy are sturdy, versatile plants with minimal environmental
impact. Eco-friendly textiles are made up of fibres that don't
need the utilization of any pesticides or chemicals to grow.
So in a nutshell sustainable textile means that generating a fabric using eco-friendly ways with the minimal use of
chemicals. It should have a good ecological footprint and it has to be made out of a renewable resource. Some
sustainable textiles are discussed.
FLAX
Flax requires less amount of water and
fewer pesticides than cotton, this makes
it more eco-friendly fabric. It is
recyclable and biodegradable. A very
little amount of energy is required to
produce flax linen.
It is much stronger than cotton. It
strength making it last long rather
than wind up in the landfill, which is a
very important quality of the
sustainable textile. One of the best
quality of the flax linen is that it gets
softer and softer after every wash.
Every part of this plant can be used in
a worthwhile product.
BANANA
Banana fibre can be used to make
cotton, taffeta and silk but we can say
that it is a vegan alternative to silk
due to its inherent shine. The fabric
made out of it is breathable and
heat-resistant. Since it is a byproduct
of an agricultural crop which is
banana that is why it does not require
any additional land for cultivation like
cotton, jute etc. There is a Guhawati
based designer named Nandani
Baruva, she collaborated with the
farmers of Assam to cultivate the
strong and good quality of Banana
stems. She created fabric about them
and used in her collection under
clothing label, Kirameki.
ORANGE
Not many people are aware of the cruelty of silk - an industry which intensively
farms silkworms in their thousands and sometimes boils them alive in their
cocoons to extract the yarns that will be used to create the silk fabric. To stop
this cruelty Italian brand Orange Fiber has harnessed the lightweight and
versatile qualities of citrus fibres of orange fruit to create a sustainable vegan silk
material. The fibres used by the brand are harvested from leftover fibres from
orange juice production, upcycling potential waste materials that otherwise
would have been discarded. Every year, 700,000 tonnes of citrus fruits are
harvested in Italy, and the brand has patented a technology that extracts
cellulose from the leftovers that remain after the fruits are juiced. The cellulose
can then be transformed into a soft, luxurious silk-like fabric.
MILK
Milk protein fiber dewaters and skim milk, and
manufactures the protein spinning fluid
suitable for the wet spinning process by
means of new bioengineering technique, and
new high-grade textile fiber is made by
combining them.
It has good dyeability, comfortable,
skin-friendly etc. It can be purely spun or it can
be spun with cashmere, cotton, wool, silk,
ramie etc. It is used to create loungewear,
underwear, t-shirts and shirts. It satisfies the
people’s pursuance of comfortable, healthy
clothing.
PROBLEMS
● Product range is limited
The product range includes sarees, dhotis,
towel and dupattas which is very less
compared to the other clusters. One of the
reasons why they don’t want to increase
their product range might be because their
weavers haven’t got any proper training as
well as they don’t want to shift from what
they have been making traditionally.
● Less design variations
The designs they use in their products are
limited as well. They mainly use check
patterns and buti designs. Apart from that
they do not design anything which would
make their unique.
● No awareness about the cluster
The major threat that they are facing in this cluster is that there is
no advertisement of their products, this is directly affecting the
market of the products and is resulting in low sales.
● Lack of modern marketing strategies
The cluster tulsipur have not received much attention since many
years, this has put them much behind than other clusters like
Nuapatna which have gained a lot of popularity. One of the reasons
for this can be the geographical locations of these clusters. Despite
being in collaboration with Weaver’s Co-operative societies, and
having being established as clusters long back, due to lack of
proper marketing strategies, they have fallen behind the modern
marketing strategies.
● No proper facilities provided by government
Despite haven being provided with machinery, and funds by the
government, the outcome has not been as expected. There can be
many reasons possible for this. Whatever facilities we have
observed over there were provided a long time ago, and are not
sufficient to compete with the demand in present times.
● Outsourced pre production process
Their warp yarns are not processed
properly before weaving because of
which they give a very hairy and fuzzy feel
and once weaving is done it also affects
the quality of the product. It also
produces a lot of wastage.
● No proper wages
As this is a very tedious and hard working job, the
wages are very less compared to the effort put in
by the weaver, this may be also because, in order
to make sales, they sell their products at a very low
rate compared to the other clusters therefore
people are leaving that job and the younger
generation is not willing to pursue that career.
● No brand identity
They do not have any identifiable product or design which
can make it prominent within the clusters of orissa. They
also sometimes get the dyed yarns from bargarh and then
just weave them in their cluster to make ikat products.
● Plastic is used for packaging
Plastic has been banned by the government not being
environment friendly. It is still in use in packaging for the
products produced by them.
To protect products and materials during
transport, distribution and storage, a
variety of packaging types is available.
Garment packaging is the process of
wrapping, compressing, filling or creating
of goods for the purpose of protection and
their appropriate handling. This is the final
process in the production of garments,
which prepares the finished merchandise
for delivery to the customer. It is an
important part of the garment
manufacturing process. Garment
packaging is also used to get a lot of
attention from the customer.
PACKAGING
Packaging has two major functions:
Flowchart of Garment
Packaging:
● · Distribution Received garments from the finished
● · Merchandising section
↓
Hang tagging
↓
Folding with inserting back board, tissue
The main purpose of distribution packaging is
packaging the garment in a way that it allows ↓
the garment manufacturers to transport the Poly Bagging
garment at a minimum cost and in the shortest ↓
time to the retailer or purchaser, without Cartooning
deteriorating the quality of the product. The
merchandising function deals with showcasing ↓
the garment product in a way that it stimulates Applied adhesive tape on the pack
consumer desire for purchasing the particular ↓
product. Bar-coding
↓
Packing complete
Conventional types of
Packing Materials:
Types of Package The simple packaging materials used in
Forms: garment and related items are paper, plastic,
film, wood, nails, staples, cords, gum tape and
metal bands.
The basic types of package forms used 1. Wood cases and crates are generally used
in apparel and allied products are as packing materials for bulk exports or
· Bags rugged shipments where shipment handling is
· Boxes higher.
· Cartons
· Cases 2. Paper and plastic film packaging materials
· Crates are used in the garment and related industries.
· Twine The paper types such as kraft, crepe, tissue,
· Wrappers paper foil, paper board and waterproof are
typically used as packing materials. Plastic
films have a major advantage over paper
because of clarity in range.
·
Leno bags:-Leno bags are excellent
for packing & preserving material
for vegetables like potato, onion,
ginger, garlic, cabbage etc. and
Polyolefin Woven Sacks:-Woven sacks are fruits like pineapple, citrus fruits,
manufactured out of PP/HDPE materials. These are raw mango, coconut etc.
laminated or un lamented, ultra violet stabilize. They
have the advantages like Higher Strength, Light
Weight, Minimal Seepage, Moisture Proof, Long
Lasting (Durable), cheaper (as it can be reused).
Jute Hessian also termed as Burlap is a finer quality jute fabric that has been long used as
the most preferred packaging material for all kinds of goods. Hessian is used for bags and
many other coarse fabric uses such as wrappers, wall coverings, etc. Presently shopping
bags are being made out of hessian fabrics. It is also used in the upholstery and home
furniture. A plain weave cloth made wholly of Jute with single warp and weft interwoven,
weighing not more than 576 g/m2. Hessian fabrics are lighter than sacking fabrics. A range
of heavy jute fabrics either in plain or twill weaves manufactured by using coarse jute fiber in
larger percentage than used for manufacturing tarpaulin, hessian or such light fabrics.
Quality Specifications for Packaging Materials:
1. Properties
· Clarity
· Thickness
· Width and length
· Weight
· Yield
2.. Characteristics
· Tensile strength
Quality specifications for packaging
· Elongation
paper and film are similar to that of
· Bursting and tearing strength
fabric.
· Flammability
· Porosity
· Air/moisture permeability
· Sunlight transference
· Resistance to odours
· Dimensional stability to heat and sunlight
DESIGNING PACKAGES
A package must promote or sell the product, protect the product, aid the consumer to utilise the product, offer
reusable options of the package to the consumer and has to satisfy legal requirements. The main two criteria
for package design are functional and sales requirements
Functional requirement:- Package design for a specific product should fulfill five groups of functional
criteria such as in-store, in-home, production, distribution and safety and legal. In-home requirements
normally usually state that packaging should be convenient to use and store and reinforce consumer’s
expectations of the product. For in-store conditions, packaging must draw the attention of the buyer, identify
the product and differentiate it from the competition, and tempt the customers to purchase the product. The
package should be designed such that the retailer could easily store the product, keep the stock on the floor,
and it must be simple to process at a check-out counter.
Sales requirements:
Apart from functional aspects, product packaging should be designed in such a way that it appeals to
customers. The four most important merchandising requirements of package design are its apparent size,
impression of quality, attractiveness of a package and finally readability of the brand name.
STAND UP PACKAGING
This type of packing is commonly used for shirts and hence termed as ‘shirt packing’. For this
type of packing, the garments have to be pressed prior to packing and are packed with
additional packing materials like tissue paper, back support, pins or clips, inner collar patty,
outer patty, etc. The stand-up garment package and the accessories used are shown in
Figure.
DISADVANTAGES ADVANTAGES
● It is costlier.It needs many packing materials
● It is an attractive pack so it enhances the
It involves a lot of effort as well as time.
appeal of the garments to the customer.
● .Unpacking of this kind of package needs
● It is a safer pack as it has inner and outer
more time and once unpacked it is tough to
cartons, therefore the packed garments
repack.
can be handled easily.
● In case it is crushed by any source, creases
● On account of its better presentation, it can
and wrinkles are formed on the garments
increase the sales of a product.
and thus the pressed condition is disturbed.
● It is less expensive than the stand-up pack as it requires less
material.
● It is less attractive than the stand-up pack. For shirts it does
not present the beauty of the collar portion very well.
● The disadvantages are the same as that of the stand-up
pacK.
● The size of the folding is based on the garment style and
specifications of the buyer. The common sizes of flat pack
are 8″ × 10″ and 10″ × 12″
FLAT PACKAGING
In this packing method, the garments are pressed and folded well as like in a stand-up pack, however with less
additional packing materials. It is generally normally used for ladies’ garments and has a flat surface
HANGER PACKAGING
It is a simple garment packing method where the garments are secured in a poly bag with a hanger after pressing
.Here polybag is the only material used. This type of packing can be used for all types of garments especially for
blazers, coats, pants, etc.
● Because of its simplicity it reduces the cost of
packing and materials.
● All the components/panels of the garments
could be seen easily without removing the bag.
● The time for packing and unpacking is
less.Material handling is not easy
Initial Sketches for Packaging
Features:-
1. Box Packaging
- LOGO Signifies sustainability.
2. Box Packaging
1. - The printed part on the upper side of the box
is same as product. So that customer can
easily identify the product from outside by
without opening the box
2.
3. Cylinder Packaging
- The printed part on the upper side of the box is
same as product. So that customer can easily
identify the product from outside by without
opening the box.
- It consume less space and material
3.
4. Booklet Packaging
- The left side of the page talk about the
essence of the cluster of banki Whereas the
right side of the page has two elastic bands
that holds the product firmly and safely.
4.
SWOT ANALYSIS
SWOT ANALYSIS
1 . The skill of artisans is good.
The artisans of the tulsipur cluster are skilled as most
of them are master weavers.
2. Transportation facilities to pursue the materials-
STRENGTH
The raw materials have been procured from nearby
clusters and the transportation facilities are good.
3. Economic balance through agriculture-
The artisans have agriculture as their occupation
which is balancing the livelihood of the artisans.
1. Lack of design interventions-
The designs are not being developed in tulsipur due as the
warping materials are procured from nuapatna cluster.
2. Lack of awareness regarding the development in
WEAKNESS craft-
Craft is the major occupation in tulsipur, because of low
wages.
3. Lack of marketing strategy-
Marketing strategies are low as the products are not
specifically belonging to one region.
1. Identified and government support-
The cluster is identified by the government. the
government provides required equipment to the weavers.
2. Knowledge of different processes and the equipment
to pursue the same-
OPPORTUNITY
The artisans are well aware of the equipment being
provided by the government which can be used as a base
to develop the unique patterns in tulsipur cluster.
3. Artisan training programs offered by government-
The artisan programs offered by the government
increases the skills of the artisans which can gradually
promote the uniqueness of tulsipur cluster.
1. The decline in the craft as an occupation-
The artisans are decreasing as the demand of the craft is not
very high as there is no product specification in the market.
2. Lack of product identification which leads to the
decline of sales-
THREAT Tulsipur has no specific design interventions due to which
the products are not well known, this increases the chances
of a decline in sales.
3. Lack of Proper utilization of equipment-
Government has provided the required equipment for the
cluster, as the number of people working as artisans are
decreasing gradually and the equipment are remaining
unutilized.