WATER PROOF FABRICS

TYPES OF FABRICS

METHODS OF MAKING WATERPROOF

PROPERTIES OF FABRIC

SUBMITTED BY:-

PRERNA SHRUTI,16
RAHUL ANAND,31
SAURABH DAVIS KUJUR,33
APPAREL PRODUCTION-4
NIFT,KOLKATA.
DATE:- 13/04/09.

Water proof fabrics

India is increasing total wealth and per capita income per head. The rapid spread
of
satellite television is globalising the vision of the healthy lifestyle and spreading
knowledge of sports and leisure wears from country to country. Due to consumers
 becoming more and more conscious for the comfort of the garments that they are
wearing. As a result new fibres and fabrics are emerging out for satisfying the
stringent needs.
The paper reviews various works done in development of waterproof, breathable
sportswear textiles. The moisture transport properties and various factors affecting
it
are also discussed for sportswear fabrics using different fibres. The various
branded
fibres and fabrics have been described along with their constitutional elements and
special characteristics.

Introduction
Waterproof breathable fabrics are designed for use in garments that provide
protection from the environmental factors like wind, rain and loss of body heat.
Waterproof fabric completely prevents the penetration and absorption of liquid
water. The term breathable implies that the fabric is actively ventilated.
Breathable fabrics passively allow water vapour to diffuse through them yet
prevents the penetration of liquid water. High functional fabrics support active
sportswear with importance placed on high functions as well as comfort. Finally,
materials with heating and/or cooling property have newly attracted the interest
of the market. All these materials do not pursue a single function, but different
functional properties combined on a higher level.
Fabrics that can convey water vapor from body perspiration out through the
material while remaining impervious to external liquids such as rainwater are
widely used in sportswear and similar applications. Water-resistant and
moisture-permeable materials may be divided into three main categories - high-
density fabrics, resin-coated materials and film-laminated materials - which are
selected by manufacturers according to the finished garment requirements in
casual, athletics, ski or outdoor apparel.

Densely woven water breathable fabrics

The densely woven waterproof breathable fabrics consist of cotton or synthetic

microfilament yarns with compacted weave structure. One of the famous
waterproof breathable fabrics known as VENTILE was manufactured by using
long staple cotton with minimum of spaces between the fibres 1. Usually combed
yarns are weaved parallel to each other with no pores for water to penetrate.
Usually oxford weave is used. When fabric surface is wetted by water the cotton
fibres swell transversely reducing the size of pores in the fabric and requiring
very high pressure to cause penetration. Therefore waterproof is provided
without the application of any waterrepellent finishing treatment. Densely woven
fabrics can also be produced from micro-denier synthetic filament yarns. The
individual filaments in these yarns are of less than 10 micron in diameter, so that
fabrics with very small pores can be engineered.

Laminated waterproof breathable fabrics.

Laminated waterproof breathable fabrics made by application of membranes
into textile product. These are thin membrane made from polymeric materials.
They offer high resistance to water penetration but allow water vapour at the
same time. The maximum thickness of the membrane is 10 micron. They are of
two types:

1) Micro porous membranes

2) Hydrophilic membranes.

The micro porous membranes have tiny holes on their surface smaller than a
rain drops but larger than water vapour molecule. Some of the membranes are
made from Polytetrafluoroethylene PTFE polymer , Polyvinylidene fluoride
PVDF, etc2,3.
The hydrophilic membranes are thin films of chemically modified polyester or
polyurethane. These polymers are modified by the incorporation of poly. The
poly (ethylene oxide)4 constitutes the hydrophilic part of the membrane by
forming amorphous region in the main polymer system. This amorphous region
acts as intermolecular pores allowing water vapour molecules to pass through
but preventing the penetration of liquid water due to the solid nature of the
membrane.

Coated waterproof breathable fabrics.

Coated fabrics with waterproof breathable fabrics consist of polymeric material

applied to one surface of fabric. Polyurethane is used as the coating material.
The coatings are of two types:

1) Micro porous membranes

2) Hydrophilic membranes.

In microporous membrane the coating contains very fine interconnected

channels much smaller than finest raindrop but larger than water vapour
molecules.
Hydrophilic coatings is same as hydrophilic membrane but the difference
between the microporous and hydrophilic material is the former water vapour
passes through the permanent air-permeable structure whereas the later
transmits vapour through mechanism involving adsorption-diffusion and de-
sorption.

The desirable attributes of functional sportswear and leisurewear are as follows 6:

Optimum heat and moisture regulation
Good air and water vapour permeability
Rapid moisture absorption and conveyance capacity
Absence of dampness
Rapid drying to prevent catching cold
Low water absorption of the layer of clothing just positioned to the skin
Dimensionally stable even when wet
Durable
Easy care
Lightweight
Soft and pleasant touch

It is not possible to achieve all of these properties in a simple structure of any

single fiber or their blend7. The two layer structure has layer close to skin of the
wicking type comprised of synthetic fibers e.g. micro-denier polyester and the
outer layer usually cotton or rayon that absorbs and evaporates. Micro denier
polyester is ideal for wicking perspiration away from the skin. The use of
superfine or microfibre yarn enables production of dense fabrics leading to
capillary action that gives the bestwicking properties.
No single fibre or blend of different fibres can give ideal sportswear. The right
type of fibre should be in the right place. Blending of fibres does not give the
same effect as that of multi-layer fabric. The wicking behaviour of the fabric is
mainly depending on its base fibres moisture properties.

MOISTURE TRANSPORT MECHANISM

The mechanism by which moisture is transported in textiles is similar to the
wicking of a liquid in capillaries. Capillary action is determined by two
fundamental properties of the capillary:

Its diameter; and

Surface energy of its inside face.

The smaller the diameter or the greater the surface energy, the greater the
tendency of a liquid to move up the capillary. In textile structures, the spaces
between the fibres effectively form capillaries. Hence, the narrower the spaces
between these fibres, thegreater the ability of the textile to wick moisture. Fabric
constructions, which effectively form narrow capillaries, pick up moisture easily.
Such constructions include fabrics made from micro fibres, which are packed
closely together. However, capillary action ceases when all parts of a garment are
equally wet.

The surface energy in a textile structure is determined largely by the chemical

structure of the exposed surface of the fibre, as follows :

Hydrophilic fibres have a high surface energy. Consequently, they pick up

moisture more readily than hydrophobic fibres.

Hydrophobic fibres, by contrast, have low surface energy and repel moisture.
Special finishing processes can be used to increase the difference in surface
energy between the face of a fabric and the back of the fabric to enhance its
ability to wick.

FACTORS AFFECTING MOISTURE TRANSPORT

There are several factors, which affect moisture transport in a fabric. The most
important are:
Fibre type;

Cloth construction or weave;

Weight or thickness of the material; and

Presence of chemical treatments.

Synthetic fibres can have either hydrophilic (wetting) surfaces or hydrophobic

(nonwetting) surfaces. They also have a range of bulk absorbencies, usually
reported by suppliers and testing organisations as the percentage moisture
regain1 by weight.
Synthetic fabrics are generally considered to be the best choice for garments
worn as a base layer. This is because they are able to provide a good combination
of moisture management, softness and insulation.
While most fabrics, both natural and synthetic, have the ability to wick moisture
away from the skin, not all of these are fast-drying and air permeable-two
factors, which have a direct influence on cooling and perceived comfort. High-
tech synthetic fabrics are lightweight, are capable of transporting moisture
efficiently, and dry relatively quickly.
It is generally agreed that fabrics with moisture wicking properties can regulate
body temperature, improve muscle performance and delay exhaustion. While
natural fibres such as cotton may be suitable for clothing worn for low levels of
activity, synthetic fabrics made of nylon or polyester are better suited for high
levels of activity. They absorb much less water than cotton, but can still wick
moisture rapidly through the fabric.

The main parameters for comfort and functionality are:

Water and wind proof, breathability and comfort.

Moisture/Sweat management.

Warmth/temperature control.

Easy-care performance.

Smart and functional design.

Polyester
Polyester has outstanding dimensional stability and offer excellent resistance to
dirt, alkalis, decay, mold and most common organic solvents. Being durable, yet
lightweight, polyester has elasticity and a comfortable smooth feel or “soft
hand”.
These are all important qualities to consumers for a wide variety outerwear and
recreational applications. Excellent heat resistance or thermal stability is also an
attribute of polyester. It is the fibre used most commonly in base fabrics for
active wear because of its low moisture absorption, easy care properties and low
cost.
Polyester is essentially hydrophobic and does not absorb moisture. However,
most polyester used in base layer clothing is chemically treated so that they are
able to wick moisture. This can be done by:

Coating the polyester with a hydrophilic finish; or

Changing its surface chemistry to improve its wetting by moisture.

Changing the surface chemistry of the polyester involves introducing free

hydroxyl groups into molecules on the surface of the filament. The result is a de
structuring of water, causing wetting. The combination of opposing properties-a
hydrophobic core and a hydrophilic surface-creates a fabric in which the fibres
encourage moisture to migrate through the fabric along the outer surface of the
filament while the hydrophobic core does not absorb moisture.
The main disadvantage of chemical or molecular modification is that it is more
costly for the fabric manufacturer. However, the effect on the fabric is
"permanent". To be classified as permanent, it has to have the capability to
withstand at least 50 home washings. Most coatings, by contrast, have an average
lifespan of five home washings.
Toray develops airfine Fieldsensor which is made from a polyester filament yarn
which has the grooves help the fabric absorb sweat quickly and disperse it along
the surface. Company claims that the moisture absorbing and dispersing
property of the new material is twice a great as its former Fieldsensor fabric.
Polyester coolmax has been claimed to increase wearer comfort through rapid
removal of perspiration by capillary. Also it has good wicking properties and
nonabsorbency.
Coolmax and thermostat polyester fibers used in two fold garments
claimed to wick moisture away from the skin (the former) and to maintain
warmth (the later).

Polypropylene

Polypropylene cannot wick liquid moisture. However, moisture vapour can still
be forced through polypropylene fabric by body heat. Polypropylene has the
advantage of providing insulation when wet But it can melt at medium heat in
home dryers.
Also, polypropylene is more oleophilic (oil absorbing) than polyester
Consequently, it has a greater tendency to attract and hold oily bod) odours even
more. Polypropylene is claimed to be a proved performer in moisture
management due to its hydrophobic nature and has very good thermal
characteristics, keeping the wearer warm in coldweather and cold in warm
weather.

Nylon

Nylon fibre characteristic include lightweight, high strength and softness with
good durability. Nylon also quickly when wet. Nylon is good fabric choice when
combined with PU coatings. Nylon has a much higher moisture regain than
polyester and therefore has better wicking behaviour. It is most often used in
tightly woven outerwear, which can trap heat because of low air permeability. It
is also used in more breathable knitted fabrics, where it can perform well.
However, it is much more expensive than polyester and is therefore only used in
premium applications such as swimwear and cycling wear. Also, because of its
higher moisture regain, it dries more slowly than equivalent fabrics made from
polyester.
Teijin DuPont Nylon has developed a waterproof fabric, polus-Ex that is
permeable to moisture. The material is made by laminating a multiporous film to
a nylon fabric and a moisture permeability of 8000 g/m2/24 hours, as well as 20 m
head of water.

Silk

Because of its hollow structure, silk breathes well. It is soft strong and has
natural wicking properties. However, it dries slowly and requires care in
cleaning.
Not all grades of wool are appropriate for a base layer. First, since it's next to
skin, it shouldn't itch. The "itch" so commonly noticed in wool garment results
from the fiber ends tickling. Consequently, short fibers will cause more itch than
long fibers because there will be more fiber ends touching your skin. Second, the
fiber should be very fine. This allows for a fabric of high fiber density to be
made, which increases strength and abrasion resistance in addition to increasing
the air movement between and adjacent to pockets of dead air space in the fabric
(thus, increasing warmth).
Finally, fine fibers absorb less water weight per cross-sectional area, so they are
more resilient than coarse fibers. The efficiency of wicking is also greater with a
fine-fibered fabric because more fibers (and correspondingly, more cross-
sectional surface area) can be packed into a given space than an equal volume of
coarse fibers.
Wool has good, natural wicking properties and will provide insulation even when
wet.
However, it is slow to dry. However the use of fine chlorinated merino wool is
employed in Sportwool as a base layer.
Wearing a Merino wool undergarment will result in the garment staying dryer
for longer during periods of exertion. Wool fibers have micropores in them (a
characteristic not unique to Merino wool) that readily allow for the absorption of
water vapor-up to 1/3 the fiber weight. Consequently, it takes longer for a wool
garment to reach the high relative humidity required for condensation to occur
(synthetic fibers typically absorb less than 5% of their own weight in moisture
vaporbefore feeling wet).

A wool fabric (manufactured into long-sleeved T- shirt form) has been shown to
absorb significantly more sweat than a polyester fabric (of comparable structure)
during a period of exercise followed by rest. The amount of moisture desorbed
from the wool fabric was significantly higher than that from the polyester fabric,
and the skin temperature decreased faster and recovered more slowly after
contact with the wool fabric compared with polyester fabric.

Cotton

Cotton garments provide a good combination of softness and comfort. However,

cotton is not recommended for use in base layer clothing because of its tendency
to absorb and retain moisture. When wet, cotton garments cling to the skin.
Causing discomfort. Wearing jeans on the ski slopes, for instance, will not only
weigh down the skier but will also cause chilling if the jeans become wet.
The slow-to-dry and cold-when-wet characteristics of cotton make this material
unsuitable in conditions in which there are high levels of moisture-either
perspiration or precipitation-and where the ambient temperature is low.
During SASMIRA’s trials for wicking of cotton treated with hydrophobic
finishes showed good wicking properties.

Viscose Rayon

The viscose rayon is not preferred next to skin as it holds water (13 % moisture
regain) in sportswear. The outer layer of knitted hydrophilic portion of the twin
layer sportswear can be of viscose rayon, which absorbs 2-3 times more moisture
than cotton. The wicking behaviour improves by incorporation of some
hydrophobic finishes.
There are several methods which can be used to obtain fabrics
which are both breathable and waterproof. These can be divided
into three groups:

Densely woven fabrics

Membranes
Coatings.

2.1.1. Densely Woven Fabrics:

Probably the first effective waterproof breathable fabric was

developed in the 1940s for military purposes and is known' as
Ventile.Ventile fabric was carefully engineered to make it
effective1.The finest types of long staple cottons are selected so that
there are very small spaces between the fibres. The cotton is
processed into combed yarn, which is then plied. This improves
regularity and ensures that the fibres are as parallel as possible to
the yarn axis, and that there are no large pores where water can
penetrate. The yarn is woven using an Oxford weave, which is a
plain weave with two threads acting together in the warp. This gives
minimum crimp in the weft, again ensuring that the fibres are as
parallel as possible to the surface of the fabric.
When the fabric surface is wetted by water, the cotton fibres swell
transversely reducing the size of the pores in the fabric and
requiring very high pressure to cause penetration .The fabric is thus
rendered waterproof without the need for any water-repellent
finishing treatment.The military variants use thread densities as
high as 98 per cm. Fabric for other applications uses much lower
thread densities necessitating a water repellent finish to achieve the
waterproof properties.Densely woven fabric can also be made from
synthetic microfilament yarns. The individual filaments are less
than 10 micrometer in diameter, so that fibres with very small pores
can be engineered. Microfilaments are usually made from
polyamide or polyester. The latter is particularly useful as it has
inherent water-repellent properties. The water penetration
resistance of the fabric is improved by application of silicone or
fluorocarbon finish Although fabrics made from microfilaments
have a soft handle many of them are windproof, but not truly
waterproof as the synthetic filaments do not swell when wet. The use
of very fine fibres and filaments and dense construction results in
fabrics with very small pore size compared with conventional
fabrics. Typical pore size for a waterproof fabric is about 10
micrometer compared with 60 micrometer for conventional fabric.
Ventile fabric has a pore size of about 10 micrometer when dry and
3-4 micrometer when wet2. Fabric made from microfilaments is
claimed to have up to 7000 filaments per centimetre. The military
variant of Ventile fabric has about 6000 fibres per centimetre.
2.1.2. Membranes

Membranes are extremely thin films made from polymeric material

and engineered in such a way that they have a very high resistance
to liquid water penetration, yet allow the passage of water vapour. A
typical membrane is only about 10 micrometer thick and, therefore,
is laminated to a conventional textile fabric to provide the necessary
mechanical strength. They are of two types, microporous and
hydrophilic

2.1.2.1. Microporous Membrane

The first and probably the best known microporous membrane

developed and introduced in 1976 by W.Gore,is known as Gore-
Tex.This is a thin film of expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
polymer claimed to contain 1.4 billion tiny holes per
squaremeter.The holes are much smaller than the smallest raindrop
(2-3 micrometer compared with 100 micrometer)3 yet very much
larger than a water vapour molecule. Other manufacturers make
similar membranes based on microporous polyvinylidene fluorIde
(PVDF) cast directly on to the fabric4. The hydrophobic nature of
the polymer and small pore size requires very high pressure to cause
water penetration. Contamination of the membrane by various
materials including body oils, particulate dirt, pesticide residues,
insect repellents, sun tan lotion, salt and residual detergent and
surfactants used in cleaning' have been suspected of reducing the
waterproofing and permeability to water vapour of the membrane.
For this reason microporous membranes usually have a layer of
hydrophilic polyurethane to reduce the effects of contamination5.

2.1.2.2. Hydrophilic Membranes

Hydrophilic membranes are very thin films of chemically modified

polyester or polyurethane containing no holes which, therefore, are
sometimes referred to as non-poromeric. Water vapour from
perspiration is able to diffuse through the membrane in relatively
large quantities. The polyester or polyurethane polymer is modified
by incorporating up to 40% by weight of poly(ethylene oxide)2.The
poly(ethylene oxide) constitutes the hydrophilic part of the
membrane by forming part of the amorphous regions of the
polyurethane polymer system. It has a low energy affinity for water
molecules which is essential for rapid diffusion of water vapour6.
These amorphous regions are described as acting like
intermolecular 'pores' allowing water vapour molecules to pass
through but preventing the penetration of liquid water owing to the
solid nature of the membrane
Methods of Incorporation

Membranes have to be incorporated into textile products in such a

way as to maximize the high tech function without adversely
affecting the classical textile properties of handle , drape and visual
impression3.There are four main methods of incorporating
membranes into textile products.The method employed depends
upon cost,required function and processing conditions3:
a) Laminate of membrane and outer fabric :
The membrane is laminated to the underside of the outer fabric to
produce a to layer system.This method has the disadvantage of
producing a rustling, paper like handle with reduced aesthetic
appeal but have advantage of very effective protective properties of
wind resistance and water proofing.This method is mainly used for
protective clothing

b) Liner or insert processing:

The membrane is laminated to a light weight knitted material or
web.The pieces are cut to shape from this material, sewn together
and the seams rendered waterproof with special sealing tape. This
structure is then loosely inserted between tite outer fabric and the
liner. The three materials (outer, laminate and lining) are joined
together by concealed stitch seams. If high thermal insulation is
required, then the lightweight support for the membrane is replaced
by a cotton, wool or wadding fabric. This method has the advantage
of giving soft handle and good drape. The outer fabric can also be
modified to suit fashion demands.
c) Laminate of membrane and lining fabric:
The laminate is attached to the right side of the lining material. The
functional layer is incorporated into the garment as a separate layer
independent of the outer fabric. This method has the advantage that
the fashion aspects can be maximized.

d) Laminate of outer fabric, membrane and lining:

This produces a three-layer system,which gives a less attractive
handle and drape than the other methods and, therefore, is not
commonly
2.1.3. Coatings

These consist of a layer of polymeric material applied to one surface

of the fabric. Polyurethane is used as the' coating material. Like
membranes, the coatings are of two types; micro porous and
hydrophilic. These coatings are much thicker than membranes.
Contains very fine interconnected channels, much smaller than the
finest raindrop but much larger than a water-vapour molecule

2.1.3.1. Micro Porous Coatings

Wet Coagulation

Polyurethane polymer is dissolved in the organic solvent dimethyl

formamide to produce a solution insoluble in water. This is then
coated on to the fabric. The coated fabric is passed through a
conditioning chamber containing water vapour. As the organic
solvent is miscible with water, it is diluted and solid polyurethane
precipitates. The fabric is then washed to remove the solvent, which
leaves behind pores in the coating. Finally the coated fabric is
mangled and dried. This method is not very popular as it requires
high capital cost for machines and solvent recovery is expensive.

Thermocoagulation
Polyurethane is dissolved in an organic solvent and the resulting
solution mixed with water to produce an emulsion. The emulsion
'paste' is coated on to one side of the fabric. The coated fabric then
goes through a two-stage drying process. The first stage employs a
low temperature to remove the organic solvent, precipitating the
polyurethane. The coating is now a mixture of solid polyurethane
and water. The second stage employs a higher temperature to
evaporate the water leaving behind pores in the coating.

Foam Coating

A mixture of polyurethane and polyurethane/polyacrylic acid esters

are dispersed in water and then foamed. The foam is stabilised with
the aid of additives. The foam is then coated on to one side of the
fabric. The coated fabric is dried to form a micro porous coating. It
is important that the foam is open cell to allow penetration of water
vapour but with small enough cells to prevent liquid water
penetration. The fabric is finally calendered under low pressure to
compress the coating. As the foam cells are relatively large, a
fluorocarbon polymer water-repellent finish is applied to improve
the water-resistant properties. This type of coating production is
environmentally friendly as no organic solvents are used.
Hydrophilic Coatings

Hydrophilic coatings5 use the same basic water vapour permeability

mechanism as the hydrophilic membranes. The difference between
microporous materials and hydrophilic materials is that with the
former, water vapour passes through the permanent air-permeable
structure whereas the latter transmit vapour by a molecular
mechanism involving adsorption-diffusion and desorption. These
coatings are all based on polyurethane, which has been chemically
modified by incorporating polyvinyl alcohols and polyethylene
oxides. These have a chemical affinity for water vapour allowing the
diffusion of water vapour through the amorphous regions of the
polymer.The balance between hydrophilic and hydrophobic"
components of the polymer system has to be optimised to give
acceptable vapour permeability, flexibility, durability and
insolubility in water and dry cleaning solvents.

Swelling of the membrane is encouraged to assist water vapour

diffusion yet it also has to be restricted to prevent dissolution or
breakdown in water or in the other solvents with which the polymer
is likely to come into contact. Poly (ether-urethane) coatings and
membranes have excellent integrity. This can be conferred in two
ways:

1 by a high degree of hydrogen bonding, principally between polar

groups in the hydrophobic segments of adjacent polymer chains
.
2 by forming covalent crosslinks between adjacent polymer chains.
The effective length and density of the crosslinks are variables
affecting polymer swelling and thus vapour permeability.
Methods of Applying Coatings

The conventional method of applying coatings to fabric is to use

direct application using the knife over roller technique3. The fabric
is passed over a roller and liquid coating is poured over it. Excess
liquid is held back by a 'doctor blade' set close to the surface of the
fabric. The thickness of the coating is determined by the size of the
gap between the blade and the surface of the fabric. The coated
fabric is passed through a dryer to solidify the coating. Sometimes
the coating is built up in several layers by a number of applications.
In order to achieve thinner coatings and, therefore, more flexible
fabric and to apply coating to warp knitted, nonwoven, open weave
and elastic fabric, transfer coating is used. The liquid coating is first
applied to a silicone release paper using the knife over roller
technique. This is then passed through an oven to solidify the
coating. A second coating is then applied and the textile fabric
immediately applied to this. The second coating, therefore, acts as
an adhesive. This assembly is passed through an oven to solidify the
adhesive layer. The coated fabric is stripped from the release paper,
which can be reused.
3.0 Various Commercial Water Breathable Fabric

Breathable Membranes

All breathable microporous membranes comprise an extremely thin

man-made film whose physical structure contains microscopic pores
that are large enough for water vapour (perspiration) to pass
through but small enough not to let water droplets through. Thus
the membrane is breathable, waterproof and windproof. Modern
microporous membranes are usually laminated to a face fabric, and
available in two and three layer versions.

Gore-Tex

Gore-Tex is a unique wafer thin microporous membrane, which

contains over 9 million pores per square inch. Each pore is 20,000
times smaller than a water droplet, yet some 700 times bigger than a
moisture vapour molecule. This gives the fabric the excellent levels
of waterproofness and breathability that the brand is famous for.
Gore-Tex is a bi-component membrane, meaning that it is made up
of two parts. The main part is made from expanded
polytetrafluoroethylene. This is then combined with an oleophobic
(oil hating) layer that protects the membrane from the natural oils
that the human body emits, insect repellents, cosmetics etc. The
outer face of the Gore-Tex fabric is coated with a hydrophobic
DWR (Durable Water Repellency) treatment which encourages
surface water to bead up and run off, improving the wet weather
performance of the garment and promoting breathability by
preventing wetting-out of the outer face. There are a number of
different Gore-Tex constructions currently used within the industry:

Classic 2-Layer

Provides soft, versatile weather protection and is good for end uses
such as walking, streetwear, golf and skiing. Made by laminating a
nylon or polyester face fabric to the Gore-Tex membrane and then
hanging a mesh lining just inside the laminate.

Classic 3-Layer

Designed for ultimate durability in rugged use applications in tough

weather conditions such as high altitude mountaineering. Made by
again laminating a face fabric (usually nylon) to the Gore-Tex
membrane, an inner protective mesh scrim is then laminated to the
other side of the membrane, giving better durability.

Paclite

Lightweight and more packable than either two or three layer

garments, designed for ultra light mountaineering or other fast
moving sports. As with two layer garments, the face fabric is bonded
to the Gore-Tex membrane, but unlike either of the other
constructions, abrasion resistant raised nubs (or dots) protect the
membrane. This means that as there is less between you and the
membrane, breathability is increased.

XCR

Standing for eXtended Comfort Range, XCR is the new product

from Gore-Tex, which by using new membrane technology and new
lamination techniques offers 25% more breathability than classic
Gore-Tex garments. Designed for mountaineers, backpackers,
snowboarders, backcountry skiers and other outdoor enthusiasts
who value performance and demand the most from their gear.
Available in both two and three layer construction.

Hydro Dry P3 (Sprayway)

The top fabric in the Hydrodry range from Sprayway, P3 has a

hydrostatic head of 10,000mm. It is waterproof and has a good level
of breathability. Again developed from a hydrophilic laminate,
Hydrodry P3 is available in both 2-layer and 3-layer constructions.
Hydrodry P3 provides Sprayway customers with a technical
alternative to Gore-Tex in the same way that Drilite Extreme does
for Mountain Equipment.

Drilite Extreme or DLE (Mountain Equipment)

A new development from Mountain Equipment, Drilite Extreme is a
monolithic, hydrophilic laminate, with a hydrostatic head of more
than 20,000mm. DLE (Drilite Extreme) is totally waterproof &
exceptionally breathable, guaranteed. An added benefit of
hydrophilic laminates is Drilite Extremes elasticity, making it
especially ideal for stretch panels in the knees and seat areas,
guaranteeing the highest freedom of movement and comfort.
Available in 2 and 3 layer contructions.

HyVent (The North Face)

Designed as an innovative option for complete weather protection,

HyVent is a waterproof/breathable polyurethane-based membrane.
While it is slightly less breathable than Gore-Tex laminates it is
extremely waterproof, and can be counted on as a dependable
protective outer layer. This combination of high waterproofness and
breathability makes it ideal for keeping the elements out.

To increase the comfort and breathability level of the coating, TNF

have developed precise custom lining options in both their 2- and 3-
layer versions of the HyVent technology.
eVENT (Pearl Izumi/Rab/Montane)

eVENT Fabric is a Direct Venting waterproof barrier. Using a

proprietary and patent-pending Dry System technology, eVENT
Fabric has set a new standard for comfort by allowing perspiration
to dissipate and vent before it saturates the inside of the fabric. At
the core of eVENT fabric is hydrophobic ePTFE (expanded
Polytetrafluoroethylene) film that has been rendered oleophobic,
and thereby free from body oil contamination, via a method that
retains the inherent open-pore structure of the membrane.

Breathable Coatings

All coatings are created by spreading a thin layer of resin directly

onto to the inside face of the chosen fabric. Two distinct types of
breathable coating exist: microporous and hydrophilic.A
microporous coating works on the same principle as a microporous
membrane, the pores in the coating being large enough to let water
vapour pass through but small enough to keep water droplets out.
Hydrophilic coatings rely on the chemical and molecular properties
of water molecules. The heat that the body generates inside the
garment drives water vapour (perspiration) down the polymer
chains found in the coating to the external face, the water vapour
moving from molecule to molecule rather than freely through a
physical hole or pore. As the body produces more moisture and the
fabric gets wetter, the chains naturally increase in size, allowing
even more moisture movement.In use, both types of coatings are
effective, with the overall performance of any garment being
determined by a combination of factors such as the choice of face
fabric, use of a separate lining, and the general design, cut and finish
of the garment.

Triple Point Ceramic (Lowe Alpine)

Triplepoint Ceramic is a unique multi-layer microporous coating

which is waterproof, windproof and breathable. It differs from
other treatments in that the manufacturing process involves
multiple coatings and the introduction of ceramic particles, which
are impregnated into the coating under high pressure.
This has the effect of creating microscopic holes around each
particle. These cavities are large enough to permit the passage of
water vapour to the outside face but small enough to prevent liquid
water from moving the other way. Since the Triplepoint Ceramic
coating is physically anchored to the fabric it wont de-laminate or
become damaged. This construction is what makes the fabric
inherently windproof as well as highly breathable and waterproof. A
special Dry Yarn technology DWR treatment is also applied to the
coated fabrics outer face to significantly improve wet weather
performance and beading, (this can be re-generated simply by
exposing the garment to a direct heat source i.e. medium heat iron
or tumble drier). There are currently two constructions of
Triplepoint Ceramic used in garment production.

Standard
The fabric is constructed and coated as described above and a free
hanging Dryflo mesh lining is then added to protect the coating, and
to help disperse any condensed water droplets on the inner face of
the garment.

Direct Lined

Triplepoint Ceramic Direct Lined is a new fabric combination for

the Alpine Pro range . Unlike the standard construction, a fixed
lining is applied directly to the Triplepoint Ceramic coating. This
gives better performance when combined with a high spec. face
fabric.

Triple Point (Lowe Alpine)

A multi-layer non-ceramic coating which is lighter than Triple Point

Ceramic and therefore better suited to general walking/outdoor
activities rather than more demanding outdoor sports. The outer
face of the fabric has a standard DWR treatment applied to it to
enhance wet weather performance.

Hydrodry P2 (Sprayway)
A more basic version of Sprayways Hydrodry P3, Hydrodry P2 is a
mixture of hydrophilic coatings and laminates rather than a
laminate outright. With a lower hydrostatic head (5,000mm) than
P3 and a slightly lower degree of breathability, Hydrodry P2 is
pitched at the more general walking market. Available only in the
equivalent of a two-layer construction, Hydrodry P2 is a good
competitor to standard Triplepoint and Aquadry.
Entrant II

A microporous coating with a multi-layer structure. Applied to a

suitable face fabric it has good waterproof and breathability
characteristics. Entrant II is used on some F&T nylon face fabrics to
enhance performance and durability.

Aquadry

Aquadry is Craghoppers own hydrophilic coating. Constructed and

working in a very similar way to Sprayways Hydrodry P2, Aquadry
is a good choice fabric for a middle of the range waterproof
garment- it is waterproof (at least 7,000mm), windproof and
breathable. The Aquadry label carries a hydrostatic head
measurement (in meters) and a breathability rating (%age) on each
garment.

HPX Technology
The fabric allows moisture vapour from inside the suit to breathe
out, whilst stopping any sea or rainwater getting in. This is achieved
by having microscopic holes in the membrane, large enough to let
water vapour out, but much too small to let water droplets in.
Incorporated into the HPX Jacket and Smock is Stretch HPX fabric
which is exclusive to Musto. Stretch HPX uses a stretch GORE-TEX
Ocean Technology membrane in a three layer laminated fabric. This
revolutionary fabric has an elasticity of 30%. The result is the least
restrictive, most breathable fabric for foul weather gear available.

GORE Windstopper Fabric

This is a windproof and breathable microporous ePTFE membrane

which is laminate to a second fabric such as a fleece to form a very
breathable & durably windproof barrier. Windstopper garments
provide up to 2 times more thermal insulation than conventional
non-laminated garments.

MPX GORE-TEX Technology

The fabric allows moisture vapour from inside the suit to breathe
out, whilst stopping any sea or rainwater getting in. This is achieved
by having microscopic holes in the membrane, large enough to let
water vapour out, but much too small to let water droplets in.
Laminated to the GORE-TEX membrane are inner and outer
fabrics. The outer fabric is a hardwearing woven nylon to give the
overall fabric the strength that is required. MPX GORE-TEX
products are ideal for offshore and coastal racing and cruising.
MPX GORE-TEX Race is ideal for high activity, high performance
sailing such as racing round the cans.

GORE-TEX Fabric Technology

The original breathable GORE-TEX fabric uses the standard

GORE-TEX membrane. Weve bonded an outer layer of durable,
woven nylon to it and created a material thats an excellent choice
for the shell of Middle Layer garments.

Waterproof & Showerproof Breathable Fabrics

This chemical process is helped by a pressure difference, which

drives the water vapour from the high pressure inside the clothing
system, to the low pressure outside. While not as efficient or as
durable as GORE-TEX fabric, hydrophilic fabrics do offer a lower
price point. Breathable waterproof fabrics have taped seams, thus
making them fully waterproof for coastal, inshore and dinghy
sailing, as well as onshore use.

POLARTEC Fabrics

Polartec Classic 100

Polartec Classic 100 stretch fabric is an expedition weight fabric for
use in HP (High Performance) thermal underwear.
Polartec Classic 200

Polartec Classic 200 is a mid-weight fabric used in the Polartec

Middle Layer, the Snug Shirt and the lining for the Snug Jackets
and GORE-TEX fabric Middle Layer.

Polartec Thermal Pro

Polartec Thermal Pro features in our Snug Mock Wool garments

giving the ultimate warmth for weight, with increased wind
resistance and a DWR finish (Durable Water Repellency), which
causes water to bead and run off the surface.

3Layer System, Yachting

To keep warm in the worst conditions first of all you must stay dry.
To do this your clothing must transport body moisture away from
the skin, hold dry warm air close to the body & keep rain and snow
out. Thats what Mustos 3 Layer System does, in three lightweight,
non-restrictive layers.
Layer 1 - The Base Layer

This layer is worn next to your skin and must transfer (wick) sweat
away from your body as fast as possible. Polyester fabrics are best
for this. Beware of cotton clothing which can absorb 30+% more
than its weight in water and transfers heat away from your body
thirty times quicker than dry air. Mustos Thermals absorb less than
0.5% of their weight in water.

Layer 2 - The Middle Layer

The main job for the mid-layer is to hold warm dry, insulating air
inside the clothing system and close to the body. It must also
continue the transmission of water vapour through the clothing
system as started by the base layer. Mustos Middle Layer
WINDSTOPPER and Middle Layer GORE-TEX garments are
great for this job.

Layer 3 - The Outer Layer

The third layer is completely waterproof to the outside elements. It

must also stop the wind whipping away the precious warm, dry air
that is held inside. But the third layer must also deal with the
moisture that is transmitted outwards by the inner two layers. This
is where breathable waterproof fabrics come in. They continue the
transmission of the water vapour through the outer layer all the way
to the outside environment.

CONCLUSION

Water proof breathable fabric are designed to provide protection

from the wind, rain and loss of body heat. The breathable fabric
passively allows the water vapour and prevents the penetration of
liquid water for comfort clothing. The breathable are very much
better than fabric coated with conventional water proof materials,
which have a higher resistance to vapour transport than ordinary
woven and knitted apparel fabric. The water proof breathable
fabric continues to breathe under rainy condition. However the
breathability of most of them ultimately ceases after long exposure
to prolonged severe rainy condition. The water proof breathable
fabric is highly breathable, too , keeping you dry and comfortable
whatever your activity.