German Wine Control Practices
German Wine Control Practices
CARSTEN FAUHL-HASSEK
Information has been prepared on the actual state of knowledge with great care. BfR in no
way guarantees that the information made available on this report is complete, accurate or
up-to-date in all cases. The reflection of the legal situation is not approved by any legal
service and therefore does not provide legally binding character.
Bundesinstitut für Risikobewertung
Table of Contents
1. Introduction.................................................................................................................................... 3
3. Samples .......................................................................................................................................... 4
6. Investigation intensity................................................................................................................... 6
7. Control limits.................................................................................................................................. 7
7.1 Regulative (EU) ....................................................................................................................... 8
7.2 Regulative (national)................................................................................................................ 8
7.3 Recommendations (O.I.V.) ...................................................................................................... 9
7.4 Experience limits ..................................................................................................................... 9
8. Appreciation................................................................................................................................. 10
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1. Introduction
The objective of this report is to highlight the situation and practice of official wine control in
Germany and to provide recommendations on best practice to FERA (formerly CSL).
Particular emphasis is given on the actual use of databanks assisting authentication of wine
including the proof of origin. However, state of the art of the official control practice is
characterised by its possibly forensic utilisation. Due to its high demand for reliability an
official objection - standing “beyond reasonable doubt” – the actual practise does not reflect
totally state of the art research particular as it concerns the proof of origin. Therefore
conservative data assessment and evaluation is done in practice.
German wine control has a long tradition in authentication of wine. In addition to national
products, also European wines, but as well third country wines are tested for their conformity
with actual regulations. BfR is the senior expert office for the import control of third country
wines and provides therefore long experience in the analysis and assessment of wine. In its
function BfR manages different databanks for control purposes in mission of the national
official wine bodies.
The report has its focus on the analytical aspects relevant in wine appreciation rather than on
the more formal aspects of wine control of such as label design or font size for example. The
report does not cover the administrative structure and organisation of the wine control in
Germany which is due to the federal system complex and different for each federal country.
2.2 Control of statements on the label: Alcohol content, quality, grape variety (blending),
geographical origin, vintage...
Labelling on a wine bottle is the most important source of information for the consumer and
also for the analyst. All statements on the label - representing the wine identity - should be
verifiable by analytical data, however some of them are very challenging. Already the
“simple” parameter alcoholic grade can cause problems; particular the application of
appropriate methods, the reference methods in official control, shall be assured in official
control. In addition the provisions on the tolerances of the alcoholic grade statement and the
additional consideration of the analytical precision (measurement uncertainty) must be
respected appropriately.
If a grape variety is stated on the label its verification - apart from the analytical difficulties -
must consider the appropriate legislation. For European wines the so called 85 % rule will
apply but for third country wines different conditions, documented in Trade contracts may
apply. The EU commission has incorporated particular contracts with Chile, South Africa, the
United States of America, Canada and Australia.
The most challenging part of authentication here is the proof of the geographical origin.
Actually what is proofed at state of the art wine control in Germany is whether the wine in
question does fit in the chemical profile established for the origin stated or not. It is not
reasonably possible to determine its correct origin. Concerning the objection it might be also
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the case that the wine in question does not comply with the authenticity range established
because it was adulterated with other wine constituents.
2.3 Chemical adulterations: illegal acidification, addition of water, glycerol, alcohol, illegal
sugar addition, dyes, sweeteners, preservatives, flavours.....
The chemical adulterations in question below this point are commonly non authorised
oenological practices and therefore the determination of them leads to an objection. The
proof of chemical adulterations depends on the possibilities of the control facility.
3. Samples
Samples to be controlled can be divided into four categories:
• National products
• EU Wines
• Third country wines
• Custom samples (import process)
The wine legislation was changed fundamentally with certain transition periods but for wines
marketed after the 1st August 2009 the new legislation is valid.
To 1.
Article 45 of regulation (EC) No 1493/1999 was partially transformed in the Council
regulation (EC) No 479/2008 on the common organisation of the market in wine, by which
article 27.4 excluded the application of non authorised oenological practices. This regulation
never really came into force but it was implemented with regulation (EC) No 491/2009 into
regulation (EC) No 1234/2007 establishing a common organisation of agricultural markets
and on specific provisions for certain agricultural products (Single CMO Regulation):
Although it must be noted that the number of authorised oenological practices was extended
because the new EU wine legislation is strongly linked to the O.I.V. rules (International
Organisation for Vine and Wine: Code of oenological practices and Oenological Codex)1.
Commission Regulation (EC) No 606/2009 lays down certain detailed rules for implementing
Council Regulation (EC) No 479/2008 as regards the categories of grapevine products,
oenological practices and the applicable restrictions.
1
www.oiv.int
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To 2.
With enforcement of Regulation (EEC) No 479/2008, respectively with the amendment of
Council Regulation (EC) No 1234/2007, in frame of the wine market reform particular the
application of the paragraph (article 45.3 of regulation (EC) 1493/1999) related to the sound
and merchantable quality was removed. Official German wine control will refer - at least as it
concerns sensory defects - to article 14.2b in combination with 14.5 of Regulation (EC) No
178/2002, which does not exclude wine.
5. In determining whether any food is unfit for human consumption, regard shall be had to whether the
food is unacceptable for human consumption according to its intended use, for reasons of contamination,
whether by extraneous matter or otherwise, or through putrefaction, deterioration or decay. "
In addition specific national law („Weingesetz“) was adapted in terms that products of the
wine law generally must be of sound and merchantable quality (§16.1).
To 3.
The marketing of products which do not comply with definitions is now excluded by article
113d of Council Regulation (EC) No 1234/2007:
5. Wine Analysis
In the European Union the analysis of wines is a special case because methods of analysis
were laid down in ANNEX of Regulation (EEC) No 2676/1990 (EU, 1990). The determination
of 45 analytical parameters was described and for some of them more than one method was
stated, the usual and the reference method. The results obtained by use of the reference
methods shall prevail particular where dispute arises. For almost all reference methods
precision parameters were determined in collaborative trials.
However this regulation is not valid any longer since the 1st of August 2009. The EU
legislation in the Council Regulation (EC) No 1234/2007 refers now directly to the O.I.V:
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Pending the adoption of such rules, the methods and rules to be used shall be the ones allowed by the
Member State concerned."
6. Investigation intensity
The typical analysis of wine includes the sensory evaluation and the so called identity test.
The identify proof usually includes the analysis of:
Further to this fundamental proof, which allows the identification in case of imported wines by
comparison with data in the V I 1 document according to Commission regulation (EC) No
555/2008) Article 41, 43 and ANNEX IX, other parameters might be tested.
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The list of parameters depends on the availability in the individual control laboratory and of
the thereof extracted investigation intensity. The specification of the analytical depth is done
by the expert.
• Specialized laboratories:
o Stable isotope ratios (D/H, 13C/12C, 18O/16O)
o Flavour analysis (e.g. pyrazines in case Sauvignon Blanc)
o Enantioselective Analysis (e.g. enatiomeric raito analysis by chiral
chromatography of lactones, peach flavour)
At this point it should be noted that the always requested high number of control samples is
realised on cost of the investigation intensity. Therefore a compromise between number of
samples and the investigation intensity is practised, including the targeted control of wines
from origins which are especially suspicious at the current state of information, because
indications of adulterations or non authorised practises were “linked” previously to the
particular type of samples.
7. Control limits
In the case of wine analysis parameters limits are fixed in EU regulations, other limits are
defined by the O.I.V. and for others limits have been established on a national level.
For several relevant analytical parameters no limits are laid down by law or established by
international organisations in wine appreciation. This situation occurs often in the case of
authentication with stable isotope analysis but also in several other cases such as mineral
content analysis and evaluation. For these parameters the experience of the analyst and
availability of comparison or reference values is important, because the effectiveness of
control depends on it.
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Table 1: Regulatory limits in EU provisions (list does not claim being complete).
Parameter Limit
Al 8 mg/l
As 0,10 mg/l
B 80 mg/l
Br 1 mg/l
F 1 - 3 g/l
Cd 0.01 mg/l
Cu 2 mg/l
Zn 5 mg/l
Sn 1 mg/l
Trichloromethane 0,1 mg/l
Trichloroethene 0,1 mg/l
Tetrachloroethene 0,1 mg/l
2 th
Appendix 7, (to § 13 .1.2), “Weinverordnung” from 21 April 2009, in combination to § 13.3.1 and 13.3.3 of the
“Weingesetz”
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Parameter Limit
Glycerol 4-18 g/l
Glycerol factor (ethanol/glycerol) Ø 8 (6-10)
Glycerol/Butandiole Ø13 (<20)
Extract (selection) >13 g/l
3
www.oiv.int (Compendium of International Methods of Analysis of Wines and Musts (2 vol) (MA-E-C1-01-
LIMMAX))
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• Nitrate > 30 mg/l: Indication of water addition (well water with high nitrate content)
• Low Ca content: application of non authorised procedures
8. Appreciation
The comparison of an actual measurement value with a control limit, that can be in the case
of wine a regulatory limit at European level, national level, a recommendation by the O.I.V. or
a so called experience value for certain parameters is one major piece of the control process.
Of course the overall process of wine appreciation is more complex because many
parameters of the analysed product contribute to the total impression of an expert, but this
report will focus to the “simple” single parameter proof only. This part of the appreciation
always relies back on whether the analytical parameter determined, considering also the
measurement uncertainty, is violating the established limit or if it is still in compliance with it.
More sophisticated appreciation goes beyond the scope of the report and remains generally
a single case appreciation in the expert’s opinion.
9. Measurement uncertainty
According to the norm EN ISO/IEC 17025 the test result of an analytical measurement must
be stated with an estimate of its uncertainty in particular when it is relevant to the application
of the test results or when uncertainty affects compliance to a specification limit. For most of
the parameters which are relevant for the wine appreciation measurement uncertainty shall
therefore be stated respectively it must be considered for drawing conclusions.
From a statistical point of view five different situations, must be considered when a test result
was determined in a laboratory for wine appreciation and control.
Situations a and b do not cause any consequences since the results are in compliance with
the control limit. Already situation c may lead to different interpretations, when uncertainty is
taken into account the result is compliant with the limit, but when measurement uncertainty is
completely ignored by the analyst, the result is interpreted to be non-compliant. In this case
the terminus “beyond reasonable doubt” - that should be demonstrated in case of official
objection - does not fit perfectly and also conventions of accreditation are mistreated. On the
other hand situation e clearly presents a violation.
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Different methods for using - and previously even the estimation of - measurement
uncertainty are available for the calculation of decision limits, unless it has been
demonstrated that the final differences were relatively low (Fauhl 2006). It must been pointed
out that the appropriate consideration of measurement uncertainty is mandatory but the
exact proceeding is individually left to the expert in wine analysis and appreciation. Although
wine analysis is highly unified at an analytical level further harmonisation is needed within
data interpretation process.
Apart from the process of selecting relevant reference data - that is not discussed in this
eport - the process after selection of the reference data set is highlighted from a statistical
point of view. After the selection of comparison samples these values are evaluated regularly
by calculating the arithmetic mean, median, standard deviation and their confidence limits.
For these operations ideally at least 30 reference samples should be available what is not
always the case of course. Calculation of the confidence limits by consideration of the
Student-Factor (t-distribution) for a low number of reference samples was described for
authenticity proof in wine analysis previously (Christoph et al. 2003; Otteneder et al. 2004)
and is accepted to be valuable for data interpretation. The t-distribution for a two-tailed
question delivers an upper or a lower limit and defines the range which is used for the
comparison with the actual value of the wine in suspect. If the actual measurement value
falls in the range then it fits statistically into the reference collective with a given probability.
Equation 1. Upper and lower confidence limit C (with X = arithmetic mean of reference samples, S =
standard deviation and t = Student-Factor for n = values and certain probability).
CUpper − Limit = X + ( S × t )
C Lower − Limit = X − ( S × t )
On the other hand naturally distributed variables like e.g. mineral content in wine would in
principle follow a two-tailed distribution, because the variation can follow two directions. From
a statistical point of view the application of one-tailed distributions requires the theoretical
exclusion of one of the two directions. The question of the hypothesis to be answered defines
the appropriate use of one-tailed or two-tailed distributions. For isotopic parameters the
consideration of one- or two-tailed distributions depends on the suspect and information
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about the wine. If the addition of sugar is the clear assumption the proof of chaptalisation by
the use of the D/H ratios and the δ13C value of wine ethanol would allow the application of a
one-sided distribution. In case that water addition is the clear suspect in the expert opinion
for the explanation of a low δ18O value found - supported by other indications drawn from
further parameters - one-sided distribution probability limits are in principle applicable.
Although the sharpness of the evaluation is better if one-tailed distribution is applied from a
control point of view, reasonable exclusion of one direction of distribution remains and its
justification is left to the expert. Application of two-tailed distribution probabilities seems to be
the most appropriate if no specific information is available, because this surely covers all
doubts.
What remains to be selected by the expert for each individual case is what kind of distribution
– one- or two-tailed – is appropriate for interpretation. If a one-tailed distribution is considered
only one limit – a lower or upper - is the result for the confidence limit calculation and
consequently only exceeding or falling below is decisive. Christoph et al. (2003) depicted the
data handling and interpretation with an example for stable isotope analysis.
It is sometimes discussed that the analytical variation must also be considered additionally if
a set of reference samples was used for the calculation of the confidence intervals. However
Martin et al. (1996) have described concretely that the analytical variation can be neglected
when the natural variation is considered because this type of variation is already and
therefore sufficiently included in the natural one. Therefore the limits obtained from such a
calculation are comparable with regulatory limits from a statistical point of view.
In case of the Deuterium (2H) NMR method for the determination of chaptalisation no
precision data is stated neither in Method 8 in the ANNEX of Regulation (EEC) No
2676/1990 nor in the now relevant comparable method description in the O.I.V. compendium:
MA-E-AS311-05-ENRRMN “Detecting enrichment of musts, concentrated grape musts,
rectified concentrated grape musts and wine by ²H-RMN”. However, the method has been
validated comprehensively for fruit juice, AOAC 995.17 Method (AOAC, 2000), in which the
standard deviation of repeatability (Sr) 0.25 ppm and 0.37 ppm for standard deviation of
reproducibility (SR) were obtained for the worst sample (r= 0.69 and R=1.02) that is usually
taken for the estimation of the measurement uncertainty of the NMR method.
Christoph et al. (2003) discussed in detail one wine sample coming from Franconia, that was
found to be suspicious in terms of chaptalisation with beet sugar showing a very low (D/H)I-
value of 98.4 ppm. For this sample minimum (D/H)I-values were calculated taking into
account different reference samples collectives.
The official method for the measurement of the δ18O-value of wine water was laid with
Method 43 in the ANNEX of Regulation (EEC) No 2676/1990. The relevant method, actually
valid for official wine control, of the O.I.V. was modified with resolution (OIV OENO
353/2009) recently, implementing modern aspects of analysis (“Gasbench” equilibrium
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technique). The precision parameters r and R are given with 0.24 ‰ and 0.5 ‰ δ18O
respectively. Limits for δ18O-value are not laid down in any provision.
Watering of wine with tap water is detectable using the δ18O value. In that case the wine,
enriched in 18O and therefore characterized by almost always positive δ18O values, is diluted
with local tap or ground water, which always shows a negative δ18O value (Fauhl 2006). The
final 18O concentration in the wine water corresponds to the grade of watering. Thus,
depending on the information available about the wine concerned a reliable conclusion can
be drawn as to the watering of a wine. The comparison with authentic wines of the same
origin with similar climatic conditions is necessary.
The determination of the 13C/12C ratio of wine ethanol is currently described in the OIV
compendium with method MA-E-AS312-06-ETHANO “Determination of isotopic ratio of
ethanol (oeno 17/2001)”. Based on the differences during the CO2 assimilation of C3 and C4
plants the 13C-content of sugars is enriched in C4 plants. All vine species are C3 plants and
therefore any adulteration of the organic ingredients of wine with C4 plant products will lead
to an enrichment of the 13C content of, for example, the fermentation alcohol or sugar. The
addition of cane sugar is easily detectable by 13C-IRMS of the fermentation ethanol, whereas
the addition of beet sugar is not visible in this way. In addition the δ13C value may give certain
indications on the origin, in dry and hot regions the δ13C value is often more positive together
with very positive δ18O value.
In some instances, when so-called “cut-off” values are violated by stable isotope parameters
the consultation of databanks is not necessary (Christoph et al. 2003). δ13C-values higher
than -23 ‰ and (D/H)I- ratios exceeding a value of 106 ppm may indicate a chaptalisation
with C4-sugar, (D/H)I -ratios less than 98 ppm are usually caused by chaptalisation with beet
sugar. However officially accepted “cut-off” values, such as ones established by the
Association of the Industry of Juices and Nectars from Fruits and Vegetables (AIJN) in case
of fruit juice analyses do not exist in the case of wine products.
According to the regulation (EC) No 555/2008 the data of the EU-Wine data-bank are
handled restrictively. The communication of data from the EU-Wine data-bank shall be
compliant with the regulation, in which the access is explained in detail:
"Article 85: Isotopic analysis of wine-sector products and interpretation of the results are delicate
procedures and, in order to permit uniform interpretation of such analysis results, the JRC databank
should be made accessible to official laboratories using that analytical method and, on request, to other
official bodies in the Member States while respecting the principles of the protection of private data.
Article 88 …
7. Member States and the JRC shall ensure that:
(a) data in the analytical databank are preserved;
…..
(c) the databank is used only for monitoring the application of Community and national wine legislation or
for statistical or scientific purposes;
(d) measures are applied to safeguard the data, in particular against theft and interference;
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....
Article 90
Communication of results
1. The information contained in the databank shall be made available on request to the laboratories
designated by the Member States for that purpose.
2. The JRC shall draw up and update on a yearly basis the list of the Member States laboratories
designated for the preparation of samples and the measurements for the analytical databank.
3. In duly substantiated cases, the information referred to in paragraph 1, when representative, may be
made available on request to other official bodies in the Member States.
4. Communication of information shall relate only to the relevant analytical data required to interpret an
analysis carried out on a sample of comparable characteristics and origin. Any communication of
information shall be accompanied by a reminder of the minimum requirements for the use of the
databank."
Among the experts of the EU-Wine data-bank (network of Member States Laboratories,
MSL) several points related to the standardisation and improvement of data access and its
use are currently in discussion:
• Concerning fraud detection the network of the EU Wine databank should be used for
addressing information requests between MSL laboratories. This procedure could be
standardized by standard procedures and forms.
However discussion on these points is in progress. The aim from a scientific point of view
should be an easier and standardised access to the databank which has been originally
established for control purposes.
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expert in charge with the help of a set of analyses and requirements that had been uniformly
defined.
Firstly, the data are examined for outliers (Pearson) specific to countries and vintages. Table
5 shows a basic statistical survey describing the 95% confidence intervals (t-distribution) for
the δ18O values of one country, calculated without outliers. Data are reported according to
country of origin and for each vintage (sub categories of country). These confidence intervals
form the basis for an assessment and frequently suffice to prove watering or a wrong
indication of geographical origin. However, it must be critically examined in each individual
case whether sufficient data are available for a characterization of the wine in question and
whether further imponderabilities such as extreme weather conditions during the harvest
period must be taken into consideration. An intensification of the control in the sense of a
reduction of the respective confidence interval can also be given in particular cases, e.g.
through different geo-climatic conditions of different wine-growing regions within a country. It
must be substantiated by corresponding data. The advices on the handling of data in the EU
database (Annex 1) to assess a wine on the basis of isotope parameters should be taken
into account of course also for using the δ 18O databank. Consideration of all information
available about the wine in question is of fundamental importance in the process. The
responsible and correct handling of the database rests exclusively with the expert and
remains always an examination of the individual case coupled with specific knowledge of the
respective attendant circumstances.
Exemplary one data set for a country or region was extracted from the databank for which
the statistical characteristics are given with Table 5.
18
Table 5. Fictive data set for calculation δ O-value confidence limits.
18
δ O-values in ‰ two-tailed
n 44
Minimum -1.26
Max 2.14
Mean 0.58
Standard dev. 0.89
Median 0.82
Student-Factor 2.02
95% CLower limit (-) -1.22
95% CUpper limit (+) 2.37
This example is also depicted in Fauhl (2006) in which the extend of measurement
uncertainty on the decision limit (enforcement limit) is discussed in detail. It was shown that
the decision limit, taking measurement uncertainty into account, varies only from -1.5 and -
1.6 ‰ between the different calculations. However it is remarkable that if a one-tailed
distribution is assumed for the data given in Table 5 the lower limit would be -0.91 ‰ instead
of -1.22 ‰ leading to decision limits between -1.2 ‰ and -1.3 ‰, so 0.3 ‰ higher than using
the two-tailed distribution.
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δ18O analysis is known to be indicative for the geographical origin, but the violation of one of
the limits, upper or lower, does not automatically imply that the wine in question derives from
another origin than stated, because the following points possibly causing the deviation also
must be considered:
- In the case of water addition only the lower limit is relevant because the tap water added
usually is characterised by a very negative δ18O value and its addition causes a reduction of
the initial value in wine water.
- The product might come from another geographical origin (than stated),
- For certain geographical origins for which vintage fluctuations play an significant role (e.g.
middle Europe), high proportions of other vintages of the same origin might have been used.
(Statement of the vintage also to be verified).
The method originally proposed by Holbach et al. (2001) has been adopted by the
International Organisation of Vine and Wine (O.I.V.) as so called Type II method (reference
method) for the determination of the acid (OENO 33/2004, MA-E-AS313-17-ACSHIK). For
that reason the method was validated in a collaborative trial. The method consists of HPLC
determination employing two separation columns (C18 and cations exchanger) coupled
consequently.
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175
acid
150
Tartaric
125
nsäure
acid
acid
Wei
100
Lactic acid
Shikimic
Malic
Äpfelsäure
Shikimisäure
75
acid
Milchsäure
50
Nitrate
Fumaric
Fumarsäure
Nitrat
25
0 5 10 15 20
However discussions on the use, interpretation and reliability of this information occur. The
German official wine control started several years ago a comprehensive data collection on
the shikimic acid content in different wines and meanwhile in 2009 almost 5400 data have
been collected. Wines from many growing regions over the world are implemented, although
some sample collectives for certain varieties derive mainly from Germany. The BfR manages
the data and provides the official wine control with actualised compilations on a regulatory
basis. Already in 2003 the official wine control published reference data for the so called
burgundy group of varieties which are characterised by a low content of shikimic acid
(anonymous 2003).
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Figure 2: Publication of control limits for burgundy wines by Working Group of Food Chemistry Experts
of the German Federal States and the Federal Institute for Consumer Health Protection and Veterinary
Medicine (ALS) for control purposes.
Pinot
Pinot Pinot Pinot Pinot
Precoce
blanc noir grigio Meunier
Noir
The confidence ranges published 2003 for the burgundy wines are still confirmed by the
actual data of 2009 on a broader basis of samples.
One of the main criticism of authenticity testing in general is that the data used as reference
are not covering the natural diversity and that possibly some effects - biological or
oenological - on the parameter in question have not been investigated in detail enough. If
one uses data of so called authentic samples or experimental samples which are real
authentic samples their production might differ from commercial samples. However the data
presented consists of both authentic and commercial wines. One strong argument for doing
so is that all possibly effects and variations are covered already and the data are therefore
fairly robust. Dealing with authenticity is always linked to certain level of probability and false
negative results or false positive objections can not be excluded totally.
For some questions the shikimic acid gives interesting information on the authenticity of the
wine variety. For example Riesling wines are characterised by a high content in contrast to
the burgundy wines which show a low concentration of shikimic acid. Therefore shikimic acid
is an indicator for certain varieties and can be indicative for some others. According to the
information of the German wine control the number of objections dropped down drastically
after the consideration of the confidence limits for the burgundy wines.
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5
100 % Dornfelder
4
30 % Dornfelder + 70 % Pinot Noir
3
20 % Dornfelder + 80 % Pinot Noir
2
10 % Dornfelder + 90 % Pinot Noir
1
100 % Pinot Noir
Figure 3. Chromtograms of the anthocyanins of increasing proportions of Dornfelder in Pinot Noir wine
This feature of burgundy wines is successfully applied for their variety control. For example
the German speciality “Weißherbst” which is a rosé wine produced from 100 % Pinot Noir
grapes, should show no significant proportion of acetylated anthocyanins. Although in this
case the possibility of technologically non-avoidable residues of other grape varieties in wine
production should be mentioned. The typical variety wine in the EU may contain 15 % of
another variety, which must be considered appropriately in the interpretation of anthocyan
pattern.
Analysis of nine anthocyanins and particularly their ratios has been used as a means of
validating the identity of the grapes used during vinification to ward against adulteration or
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fraud. Individual grape varieties can also be verified from one anthocyanin compound in
many cases. The acylated anthocyanins have proven to be particularly characteristic for
certain grape varieties, with considerable practical significance being attached to the ratio of
acetylated to p-coumaroylated anthocyanins (Rac/cou) and the sum of acylated
anthocyanins (Sac) in the assessment (Holbach et al. 2001). It has been proposed that the
ratio of acetylated to p-coumaroylated anthocyanins should be >3 if the wine is derived from
Cabernet Sauvignon, and this test is applied to Cabernet Sauvignon-labelled wines imported
into Germany. Although it must been noted that measurement uncertainty of the wine in
question, authorised blending (e.g. 15 %) and in case of sweetened wines also the addition
of further products (e.g. must) shall be considered appropriately before drawing conclusions
on the variety in question.
The analytical method has been adopted by the OIV as Type II method (reference method)
with Resolution 22/2003: “HPLC-Determination of nine major Anthocyanins in red and rosé
wines” (MA-E-AS315-11-ANCYAN).
Figure 4. Chromatogram of a red wine for the determination of nine anthocyanins according to the official
O.I.V. method (MA-E-AS315-11-ANCYAN)
DAD1 A, Sig=525,4 Ref=550,100(AN280706\003-0101.D)
mAU
22.561 - Mv-3-gl
80 (6 + 7)
R=
(8 + 9)
60
Malvidol-3-5-
diglycosid
36.802- Mv-3-acetyl-gl
40
44.676- Mv-3-cumaryl-gl
19.629 - Po-3-gl
16.113- Pt-3-gl
9.513 - Dl-3-gl
34.901- Po-3-acetyl-gl
43.424- Po-3-cumaryl-gl
20
12.712- Cy-3-gl
0 10 20 30 40 50 min
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The Working Group of Food Chemistry Experts of the German Federal States and the
Federal Institute for Consumer Health Protection and Veterinary Medicine (ALS) have
published data on the natural fluctuation ranges of anthocyanins for wines of the grape
varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Portugieser, in order to furnish wine inspection authorities
as well as wine producers with standardised principles to base their assessment of grape
variety (anonymous 2001).
Figure 5. Statistical data of the Rac/cou for wines of the variety “Portugieser” and “Cabernet sauvignon”
(anonymous 2001):
“Portugieser”
“Cabernet Sauvignon”
Features such as these have enabled anthocyanins to be used taxonomically and to detect
adulteration in wines. However, the extent of anthocyanin extraction depends on
fermentation temperature and duration and the concentration of sulfur dioxide and alcohol.
11.1 Glycerol
Glycerol is present in wine as a natural by-product of the fermentation process. During
fermentation about 92% of sugar molecules undergo alcoholic fermentation to produce
ethanol, the remaining 8% undergo glycero-pyruvic fermentation to yield glycerol.
Glycerol is believed to be responsible for the mouth feel characteristics that are often
indicative of high quality wines. It has a sweet taste but only in very high concentrations (>20
g/l) does it contribute to the perceived viscosity. However, as it is established as an important
quality-determining constituent that contributes to the sugar-free extract, it may be
deliberately added to mask a poor quality wine. Since such a practise is prohibited in
European oenological legislation, the addition of glycerol in wine is a fraudulent practice that
was and partly is prevalent.
The simplest method for the detection of illegal addition of glycerol to wines is based upon
the quantitative determination of the glycerol and ethanol content and comparison of these
values. Typically for an authentic wine the glycerol content will be in the range 6 -10% of the
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ethanol concentration. However, due to the high variability of the natural glycerol:ethanol
ratio, and the natural variability of all other wine constituents which are classically used to
assess glycerol addition such as gluconic acid – a co-indicator of a Botrytis cinerea infection
on grape - or 2,3-butanediol, the usefulness of these methods is limited. It is feasible that
glycerol could be added to a wine with a low natural glycerol content and still remains within
the range for authentic samples.
More recently it has been shown that detection of adulteration with industrial glycerol is
possible by the determination of trace amounts of by-products formed during glycerol
production (Lampe et al. 1995). Industrial glycerol is mainly produced either by fat cleavage
or synthetically from a propylene feedstock. It is known that glycerol produced by
transesterification of plant and animal triglycerides using methanol contains considerable
amounts of 3-methoxy-1,2-propanediol (3-MPD). The synthesis of glycerol from
petrochemicals leads to impurities of cyclic diglycerol (CycD). As both types of compounds
do not occur in wine naturally, it is possible to determine the illegal addition of glycerol to
wine by the determination of these impurities by GC-MS analysis.
Quantification of the glycerol addition is difficult due to the variation in by product content of
glycerols obtained from different producers. In addition, advances in purification techniques
have resulted in the availability of high purity glycerols that do not contain 3-MPD or CycDs in
detectable quantities. Analysis of different glycerols on the retail market, fine chemicals and
also food ingredients, showed that the concentrations of the by-products vary in a broad
range. Concentrations of up to ~900 mg/kg were found for 3-MPD and up to ~1400 mg/kg for
the cyclic diglycerols. Concentrations of up to almost 4000 mg/kg (CycD) were reported
earlier for one commercial glycerol (Lampe 1997). Both types of impurities were found in
certain glycerols indicating that mixtures are retailed composed by glycerol obtained by both
principal processing ways. As it had been already established (Lampe1997) it must be
concluded from these findings that the quantification of illegal addition of glycerols to wine is
only possible if also the added glycerol is known and available. This will be only the case in
very few exceptions.
Some enzyme preparations, authorised as fining reagents, may contain glycerol as solvent
and stabiliser. Considerations of the possible intake by application of these preparations
(highest recommended dose of preparation was 15 g/100 l) containing 50 % glycerol lead to
a maximum addition of 75 mg/l exogenous glycerol to wine. With the maximum
concentrations of the by-products of 800 mg/l 3-MPD and respectively 4000 mg/l cyclic
diglycerols mg/kg in technical glycerol the “worst case” concentrations were estimated with
0.06 mg/l 3-MPD and 0.3 mg/l CycDs resulting from an authorised enzyme treatment.
Based on this worst-case scenario and the appropriate consideration of the measurement
uncertainty the German wine control established enforcement limits of 0.1 mg/l for 3-MPD
and 0.5 mg/l for CycDs in 2008.
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Analysis of by-products is still a very useful tool for the authentication of wine since positive
determination of these impurities above the decision limits, clearly indicates a fraudulent
wine-making practice, in a much more direct way than the classical assessment.
According to the information of the German wine control the number of objections dropped
down drastically, although some products are still on the market.
12. Pyrazine
Typical Sauvignon blanc wines have a characteristic cultivar character. This complex
character consists of various nuances that are described, inter alia, as green, grassy, green
pepper-like, asparagus-like, herbaceous, fig, gooseberry, litchi and tropical fruit. It is well
known that certain methoxypyrazines are responsible for the typical green
pepper/herbaceous nuances in Sauvignon blanc, Sémillon and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes
and wines. 2-Methoxy-3-isobutylpyrazine (iBMP) is by far the most important because it
occurs in much higher concentrations than the other methoxypyrazines. The particularly low
threshold value of iBMP, namely 2 ng/l in water and 1 ng/l in white wine indicates that this
component can have a huge impact on wine quality.
In late 2004 early 2005 hints arose that Sauvignon Blanc wines from South Africa were
subject of an addition of iBMP in order to improve their sensory perception. One particular
wine on the German market, already ostentatious from its sensory impression (artificially
strong green paprika), was found to contain 150 ng/l iBMP.
However it must be noted that more appropriate additions - from a sensory point of view - of
iBMP in the order of 10 - 30 ng/l would certainly require further dedicated work e.g.
establishment of reference data and authenticity ranges, in order to enable an suitable
detection of falsification.
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13. Recommendations
From the experiences in Germany concerning wine control it must be concluded that wine
analysis and appreciation is very complex. Analysis itself appears rather accomplishable,
because a high level of unification is given in the field of wine analysis. Applicable validated
standard methods are available. On the contrary the interpretation of authenticity indicators
such as stable isotope ratios, but as well anthocyans or shikimic acid, requires a long term
and constantly growing expertise and experience. Relevant aspects of interpretation are
neither regulated nor standardised and thereby left open to the individual expert in charge.
Authenticity proof of wine products by means of reference data from databanks requires,
apart from the analytical expertise, certainly specific comprehensive product knowledge
which is needed for the interpretation and objection in view of a very complex wine
legislation. Getting an overall impression on the total view of parameters is one of the
complex requirements at a wine chemist in official control function and the stuff involved.
Therefore it is recognized that colleagues in wine control need longer to acquaint oneself
with the analytical and interpretational aspects.
Survey actions, in the way how they are applied often in UK, are suitable for the control of
“hard” parameters for which regulative limits exist. For many parameters which are “health”
relevant limits or recommendations are laid down. However as it regards authentication by
means of experience limits (“soft parameters”) data interpretation becomes an important
factor in the decision making process and for that reason specialised expertise - concerning
analysis, appreciation and legislation - is requested. In Germany the different control
authorities of Bundesländer have wine chemists in charge which are specialised exclusively
to wine products and which provide the expertise in the different requested fields. Although it
is unclear to which extend a similar system is installed in the UK yet, it is highly
recommended that specialized laboratories or sections should be mandated exclusively for
official wine control purposes. In order to develop such activities “training on the job” in
facilities of official German wine control authorities is suggested that also would be the bases
of an intensified co-operation. Particularly since UK is world wide the second largest importer
and one of the top ranking consumers 4 wine control including authenticity appears to be a
very interesting and important field.
4
www.oiv.int: Statistical Information: State of the vitiviniculture world report in 2007 by the Director
th
General: 6 General Assembly Verona 2008.
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14. References
Christoph, N., Rossmann, A. and Voerkelius S. (2003): Possibilities and Limitations of Wine
Authentication Using Stable Isotope and Meteoroligcal Data, Databanks and Statistical
Tests. Part 1: Wines from Franconia and Lake Constance 1992 to 2001. Mitteilungen
Klosterneuburg 53: 23-40.
Holbach B., Marx R., Zimmer M. (2001): Bedeutung der Shikimisäure und des
Anthocyanspektrums f die Charakterisierung von Rebsorten. Lebensmittelchemie; 55:32-34
O.I.V. (2008): O.I.V. Compendium of International Methods of Analysis of Wine and Musts.
Edition 2008 (www.oiv.int)
Otteneder, H., Marx, R. and Zimmer, M. (2004): Analysis of the anthocyanin composition of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Portugieser wines provides an objective assessment of the grape
varieties. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research 10: 3-7.
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