©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Bhutan
Thimphu
p50
_
#
Eastern Bhutan
Central Bhutan p146
p120
Western Bhutan
p76

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Bradley Mayhew, Lindsay Brown

 PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Bhutan. . . . . . 4 THIMPHU. . . . . . . . . . . 50 WESTERN

Bhutan Map. . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 BHUTAN. . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Paro Dzongkhag. . . . . . . . 77
Bhutan’s Top 17. . . . . . . . . . 8
Festivals & Events . . . . . . . 62 Paro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Need To Know. . . . . . . . . . 18 Upper Paro Valley. . . . . . . . 89
Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Southeast of Paro . . . . . . . 94
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 23 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . 68 Paro to Thimphu. . . . . . . . . 94
Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 68 Haa Dzongkhag. . . . . . . . . 96
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Paro to Haa Via
Festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Around Thimphu. . . . . . . . 72 Cheli La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Booking Your Trip. . . . . . . 35 North of Thimphu . . . . . . . . 72 Haa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
South of Thimphu . . . . . . . . 75 Haa to Chhuzom . . . . . . . . 99
Planning Your Trek. . . . . . 39
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 47
CAROLINE PANG/GETTY IMAGES ©

PANITHI UTAMACHANT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CENTRAL BHUTAN P120

JPCOOL/BUDGET TRAVEL ©

FESTIVAL P32 THIMPHU P55

 Contents
UNDERSTAND

Punakha Dzongkhag. . . . 100 Mongar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Bhutan

Thimphu to Punakha. . . . 100 Lhuentse Dzongkhag. . . 152 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Punakha & Mongar to Lhuentse . . . . . 152 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
Khuruthang. . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Lhuentse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 The Bhutanese
The Upper Punakha Trashigang Way of Life. . . . . . . . . . . . 231
Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Dzongkhag. . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Wangdue Phodrang Buddhism in Bhutan. . . . 239
Trashigang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Dzongkhag. . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Traditional Arts. . . . . . . . 249
Trashigang to Sakteng
Punakha to Wangdue Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . . . 159
Phodrang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Architecture . . . . . . . . . . 256
Trashi Yangtse
Wangdue Phodrang. . . . . . 109 Dzongkhag. . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Mountains & Valleys. . . . 263
Wangdue Phodrang to Gom Kora. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Wildlife &
Pele La. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Sanctuaries. . . . . . . . . . . 268
Trashi Yangtse. . . . . . . . . . . 162
Phobjikha Valley. . . . . . . . . 111
Samdrup Jongkhar
Chhukha Dzongkhag . . . 115 Dzongkhag. . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Thimphu to Trashigang to Samdrup SURVIVAL
Phuentsholing. . . . . . . . . . . 115 Jongkhar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 GUIDE
Phuentsholing. . . . . . . . . . . 117 Samdrup Jongkhar . . . . . . 166

CENTRAL TREKS . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 276

BHUTAN. . . . . . . . . . 120 Trek Routes. . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 288
Trongsa Dzongkhag . . . . 122 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . 171
Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
Pele La to Trongsa . . . . . . . 122 Druk Path Trek . . . . . . . . . . 172
Dagala Thousand Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
Trongsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Bumthang Lakes Trek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
Dzongkhag. . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Bumdrak Trek . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 319
Trongsa to Jakar. . . . . . . . . 126 Saga La Trek . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Jakar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Jhomolhari Trek . . . . . . . . . 179
Chokhor Valley . . . . . . . . . . 134 Jhomolhari Loop
Tang Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 (Soi Yaksa) Trek . . . . . . . . . 185
Jakar to the Ura Valley. . . . 142 Laya–Gasa Trek . . . . . . . . . 186
Southern Snowman Trek . . . . . . . . . . 191
Dzongkhags. . . . . . . . . . . 143 Bumthang Cultural
Trongsa to Zhemgang. . . . 143 Trek. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 SPECIAL
Zhemgang to Gelephu. . . . 144 Duer Hot Springs Trek. . . . 197 FEATURES
Gelephu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Rodang La Trek. . . . . . . . . . 199 Planning Your Trek. . . . . . 39
Royal Manas Nabji Trek. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
Buddhism in Bhutan. . . . 239
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Merak–Sakteng Trek . . . . 203
Architecture
Illustrations . . . . . . . . . . 257
EASTERN
BHUTAN. . . . . . . . . . . 146 National Parks
& Protected
Mongar Dzongkhag . . . . 148 Areas Map. . . . . . . . . . . . 270
Jakar to Mongar. . . . . . . . . 148
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
27

Itineraries
CHINA
(TIBET)

Cheri & Tango

Goembas
•
#
# Punakha Dzong
•
Taktshang •
#
THIMPHU É •
# Chimi Lhakhang
#
_ •
#
Goemba •
#
Dochu La
Paro É
É

•
#
Tamchhog
Lhakhang

INDIA

4 S A Long Weekend in Paro & Thimphu

DAY

If you have limited time or money, you can get a good impression of Bhutan in just four
days by concentrating on Thimphu and Paro.
Count on two full days in picturesque Paro, visiting Paro Dzong and the National
Museum. On the second day, hike up to the dramatic Tiger’s Nest, Taktshang Goemba,
and visit lovely Kyichu Lhakhang. After lunch, make the three-hour drive to Thimphu,
stopping at the charming Tamchhog Lhakhang en route.
On day three you could squeeze in a long day trip over the Dochu La to Punakha
Dzong, the most beautiful dzong in the country. In March, budget an hour to walk
through the colourful rhododendron forests above Dochu La. On the way back to Thim-
phu, pop into the nearby Chimi Lhakhang, the temple of the ‘Divine Madman’.
Day four is in Thimphu. Go to the weekend market and visit Cheri Goemba or Tan-
go Goemba in the upper Thimphu valley. If handicrafts are your thing, hit the National
Textile Museum and National Institute for Zorig Chusum. Late in the afternoon, drive
back to Paro; most flights depart early in the morning.
28

CHINA
(TIBET)
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s

Khamsum Yuelley
Namgyal Chorten
Taktshang •
#
Punakha
Goemba •
#
•
#
Chhundu Paro É
_
# Phobjikha
Lhakhang •
# •
# •
#
Valley
c

•
# É THIMPHU
Haa
Valley
Cheli La

INDIA

7 S Haa to Punakha
DAY

If you’re thinking about a four-day trip, consider a seven-day trip. It’s not that much
more money and, really, when are you next going to be in Bhutan? A week gives you
more time to get a feel for Bhutanese culture and enables you to get off the beaten track
in either the Haa or Phobjikha valleys, while still seeing the major dzongs and monaster-
ies of western Bhutan.
Figure on two full days in Paro, including visits to Taktshang Goemba and Kyichu
Lhakhang in the Paro valley, and a full day (or two) in Thimphu. A few tips: try to be in
Thimphu on a Saturday or Sunday to see the weekend market and avoid Paro on Monday,
when the National Museum is closed. If you’re lucky, you may be able to catch a weekend
archery tournament in Thimphu or Paro.
To get off the beaten track, add on an overnight trip to the Haa valley, on the road
that links Paro to Thimphu. The road goes over the highest driveable pass in Bhutan, the
Cheli La, and it’s worth a short detour to visit Kila Nunnery or Dzongdrakha Goemba.
Arrive in Haa at lunchtime, and spend an afternoon, and maybe the next morning, ex-
ploring the Juneydrak Hermitage and Shelkar Drak, before continuing on to Thimphu.
With the extra days you can definitely add an overnight trip over the mountains to
Punakha. This way you’ll have time to make the 1½-hour return hike to the nearby
Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten, as well as visit Chimi Lhakhang, and maybe
even a short rafting trip.
If you don’t visit Haa, you might be able to add on a day trip to the Phobjikha valley,
especially worthwhile in winter (November to February) when the valley’s black-necked
cranes are roosting. Bring some warm clothes and a torch (flashlight).
At some point during your trip, ask your guide to arrange a Bhutanese hot-stone bath,
available in most tourist hotels (for a charge). Throw in a festival and you have the per-
fect introductory visit to Bhutan.
29

PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s
PANITHI22/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top: Bhutanese prayer

wheel
Bottom: Punakha
Dzong (p104)
SAMIR D/GETTY IMAGES ©
30

CHINA
(TIBET)
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s

BUMTHANG
Chokhor
Chendebji Valley
Chorten •
#
Punakha Pele La # Tang Valley
•

‚
•
# •
# Jakar • É
#
THIMPHU É É
•
# •
#
É É
–
#
•
#
_ Wangdue
#
•
# Paro •
# Trongsa
–
# •
#
É

Phodrang
Phobjikha
Valley
É

Phuentsholing
•
#

INDIA

2 KS Thimphu to Bumthang
WEE

A 10-day itinerary should just about allow you two or three days in Bumthang, with over-
night stops in Paro, Thimphu and Punakha and a quick stop in Trongsa. But a full two
weeks will let you see the same places in more depth, at a more relaxed pace, with time
for a couple of day hikes.
If you are travelling before 2018, check with your agent to see whether the current
roadworks will slow you down.
Follow the four-day itinerary for your first days. From Thimphu, a night in the Phob-
jikha valley will give you a chance to see Gangte Goemba and also view the rare and
endangered black-necked cranes (November to February). Phobjikha is a great place to
explore by mountain bike.
From Phobjikha, it’s a day’s drive over the Pele La to the superb dzong and museum
at Trongsa and on to Jakar in Bumthang. Leave early, as there’s lots to see en route,
including the Nepali-style Chendebji Chorten, which is a perfect place for a picnic.
If you have two full days in Bumthang, spend one day doing a loop in the Chokhor val-
ley, taking in the Jampey Lhakhang, Kurjey Lhakhang and walking to Tamshing Goemba.
Your second day here should be spent exploring the Tang valley, visiting Membartsho
(Burning Lake) and the interesting Ogyen Chholing Museum near Mesithang. If you have
an extra day, overnight in the Ogyen Chholing Guest House and hike down to the road via
the remote rural chapels of Choejam Lhakhang and Narut (Pelphug) Lhakhang.
The Bumthang valley is a great place for some hiking, so budget half a day to stretch your
legs after a week’s driving. From Jakar, it’s a two-day drive back to Paro, so spend a night
near Wangdue Phodrang. Alternatively, save some time by flying from Bumthang to Paro.
If you intend to visit India in conjunction with Bhutan, consider driving from Thim-
phu or Paro to Phuentsholing instead of flying, which will add a day to the itinerary.
From here you are only a few hours from Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Sikkim, as well as
the airport at Bagdogra, which has frequent flights to Delhi and Kolkata (Calcutta).
 31

CHINA
(TIBET)

PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s
Lhuentse
Dzong
•
# Khoma
•
#
Trashi
BUMTHANG
# Yangtse
•
É É Drametse

É
É # Gom Kora
•
Paro •
# É É Goemba

c
– • # Trashigang
# •
# É
Thrumshing La – Yongphula
#
•
#
Mongar

É
Samdrup
•
#
Jongkhar

INDIA

16 S Eastern Explorations
DAY

It takes at least two weeks to make a trip out to the little-visited far east and we’d sug-
gest throwing in a couple of extra days to allow for some rest and recuperation.
There’s a lot of driving involved (up to five hours a day in eastern Bhutan) but it
should now be possible to fly back to Paro from Yongphula (near Trashigang). You
could also avoid the long drive back to Paro by exiting Bhutan at Samdrup Jongkhar, as
long as you have arranged an Indian visa in advance. This is a particularly good trip if
you’re interested in traditional weaving.
Follow the earlier itineraries from Paro as far as Bumthang (or fly there), from where
you can see the highlights of the east in five or six days. From Bumthang, day one takes
you on a dramatic drive over the Thrumshing La (3750m) and Bhutan’s wildest road
to Mongar. Stay here for two nights and make a scenic day trip up to remote Lhuentse
Dzong and the nearby traditional weaving village of Khoma. To cut down on the driv-
ing, consider instead a day’s hiking off the beaten track around Mongar.
Day three takes you on to funky Trashigang, with an optional two- or three-hour
detour along the way to Drametse Goemba, Bhutan’s most important Nyingma monas-
tery. Accommodation standards in the east are not as good as western Bhutan, so bring
a sense of humour as well as bug spray.
Figure on two nights at Trashigang, with another great day excursion to Trashi
Yangtse, with stops en route at the pilgrimage site of Gom Kora, the old Trashi
Yangtse dzong and the Nepali-style Chorten Kora. March and April bring two important
pilgrimage festivals to this region. Spend a second day here to go crane-spotting in Bom-
deling Wildlife Sanctuary or to hike via Dechen Phodrang pilgrimage site.
From Trashigang, it’s a full day’s winding drive down to the plains at steamy Sam-
drup Jongkhar. From there, take a three-hour taxi ride to Guwahati (check in advance
for planned strikes) then fly to Kolkata, Delhi or Bangkok, or take the overnight train to
West Bengal for Darjeeling and the Nepal border.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
309

Index
A Bari La 190 important figures 244-8 cheese factories 132
accommodation 44, 276-7, Barshong 184 key concepts 240-2 Cheli La 94, 96
see also individual Bartsam 159 monks 235, 242-3, 245, Chempsa 190
locations bathrooms 285 247 Chendebji 122-3
activities 277-8, see also  bears 272 prayer flags 243, 21 Chenresig 245
archery, golf, trekking beer 132, 281 prayer wheels 250, 15, Cheri Goemba 72, 74-5
agriculture 232 begging 284 29 Chha Shi Thang 183
air travel 288-90, 292 Bhonte La 185 rituals & etiquette 244, Chhokam Tsho 184
Aja Ney 156 bicycle travel, see cycling 248 Chhokhortse Goemba 175
altitude illnesses 298-9
birds 272-4, 14 schools 239-40 Chhukha Dzongkhag 115-19
Amo Chhu 264
black-necked cranes 15, Wheel of Life 233, 241, Chhume 127
animals 15, 20, 268-74, 14, 111-13, 164, 273 258
Chhuzom 95-6
21, 269, see also birds, birdwatching 15, 149, 277 budget 19, 35, 36-7, 282
Chhuzomsa 110
wildlife sanctuaries Bulay 200
Black-Necked Crane Festival children, travel with 278
golden langurs 15,268-9, 26, 113 Bumdrak trek 176-8, 177
269 Chodeyphu 179
blue poppies 99, 266 Bumthang Cultural trek Choechotse Lhakhang 176
leopards, 15, 268-9 195-7, 196
Blue-fronted redstarts 14 Choedrak 127
snow leopards 164, 269 Bumthang Dzongkhag
bodhisattvas 245-6, 245, Choeje Naktshang 154
takins 268, 272, 21 246
126-143
Bumthang valley 12, 134, Chokhor Valley 134-40, 135
yaks 183 Bodo groups 228
139, 12 Choki Traditional Art
archery 13, 55, 58, 237, Bogle, George 220 School 72
238, 13 bus travel 292
Bomdeling Wildlife chortens 261-2, 262
architecture 146, 256-62, Sanctuary 164, 271 bushwalking, see trekking,
see also chortens, treks, walks Chendebji 122-3
Bon 209, 241 Chorten Kora 23, 163
dzongs, goembas, business hours 283
lhakhangs Bondey 94 National Memorial
arts 12, 22, 249-55, 12, see books 59, 206 Chorten 55
also handicrafts animals 269, 272 C Chozo 193
art 251 car travel 292-3 Christianity 242
embroidery 251
birds 273 carpentry 249 Chukarpo 194
music 232, 235
Buddhism 239 caterpillar fungus 274
painting 12, 250, 251-2, 5 cinema 206, 238
health 295 cell phones 285 climate 18, 278
papermaking 69, 251
history 218, 219, 221, 224, Centenary Farmer’s consulates 279
textiles 13, 252, 13
229, 230 Market 16, 16
weaving 13, 250, 252, costs 19, 35, 36-7, 282
plants 266, 267 central Bhutan 48,
253, 13 credit cards 282
trekking 45 120-145, 121
ATMs 282 crime 285
border crossings 290-2 climate 120
atsara (masked clowns) 9, 8 highlights 121
culture 206-7, 231-8
bowls, traditional currency 18, 19, 282
Autsho 152-3 history 122
Bhutanese 251
customs regulations 279
British in Bhutan 219-25 travel seasons 120
cycling 277, 292
B Brokpas people 160 Chachim 188
Paro 84
Bahitung Chhu 190 Buddha Dordenma cham 254-5
Punakha 105
Balakha 178-9 statue 55 Chamgang 176
Thimphu 60
Buddha, the 239, 241, 244-5 Chana Dorje 246
Buddhism 207, 209, 231, Changangkha Lhakhang 54
Map Pages 000
239-48, see also Guru Chazam 157, 161 D
Rinpoche Dagala Thousand Lakes trek
Photo Pages 000 Chebisa 187
history 209-16 175-6, 174
310
Dajatsho lake 176 Dzongkha language 301-6 Nomad’s Festival 23, 137 Prakhar 128, 8
Damche Gom 172 dzongs 256-7, 257 Tamshing Phala Choepa Rangjung Yoesel
Damchena 172 Dobji 100 25 Chholing Monastery
Damnongchu 204 Tour of the Dragon 278 160
Domkhar
dance 254-5 Tashichholing 127 Ura Yakchoe 24, 143 Senlung 152
dangers 284-5, 295-300 Draphe 138, 197 films 206, 238 Talakha 74
Dangochang 182 Drukgyel 94 fishing 277-8 Talo 102
I N D E X D - H

Danji 193 Gasa 108, 190 Folk Heritage Museum 59 Tamshing 138-9
Dechen Phodrang Jakar 128 food 279, see also  Tango 72-4
(Thimphu) 59 Lhuentse 153 individual locations Taphey 126
Dechen Phodrang (Trashi Mongar 150 health & safety 298 Tengchen (Tinchock) 84
Yangtse) 164 Paro 10, 77-80, 11 language 303 Thadranang 74
Dechenchoeling Palace 72 Punakha 10, 104-5, 11, trekking 44 Thangbi 139
deities 246-7 29, 32 football 238 Thangbi (Thankabi) 137
dengue fever 295-6 Shongar 149 forests 16, 266 Tharpaling 127, 139
Deothang 166-7 Simtokha 75 Four Friends fable 251 Trashigang 101
Deothang Goemba 136 Trashi Chho 51-4, 16, 34 Four Noble Truths 240-1 Wangditse 74
diarrhoea 296 Trashi Thongmoen 108 fungi 274 Yangthong 99-100
digital photography 283 Trashigang 158 Yongla 166
disabilities, travellers Goenkhang Chenmo 156
with 285
Trongsa 15, 123 G
Tshenkarla 162 Gala Pang Chhu 195 Gogu La 188
Divine Madman 102, golden langurs 15, 268-9,
213, 272 galleries, see museums &
galleries 269
Do Zam 138 E golf 60, 278
Gamling 197
Dochu La 100 earthquakes 225, 264 Gom Kora 23, 161-2
Gamri Chhu 264
Dochu La Wangyal eastern Bhutan 48, Gomda 200
Festival 100 146-167, 147 Gangla Karchung La 192
Gasa 190 Gorsam 200
Dodina 185 climate 146
Gasa Dzong 108, 190 Gorsum 198
Dolam Kencho 184 highlights 147
Gasa tsechu 25 Goyul 187
Dom Shisa 184 history 148
gay travellers 281 Gross National Happiness
doma 233 travel seasons 146 17, 206-7, 229, 230
Dong La 202 economy 207 Gedu 115-16
Guardians of the Four
Dongney Tsho 179 Eden, Ashley 221-2 Gelephu 144-5
Directions 259
Dongzom 164 education 232 geography 263-6
Gumbar Gang 201
Drak Choeling Retreat 139 electricity 279 Geynizampa 175
Gur 175
Drak Kharpo 95 embassies 279 ghos 236-7
Guru Rinpoche 9,
Drak Ngagpo 95 embroidery 251 goembas 257-9, 258 209-12, 247
Drametse Goemba 156 emergencies 19, 304 Cheri 72, 74-5 Gyalpo, Thangtong 96, 211
Draphe Dzong 138, 197 environmental issues Choedu 94
driglam namzha 236 266-7, 274 Dechen Chholing 142
Dechen Phodrang H
drinks 132, 279-80, 303 etiquette 34, 235-6, 248
(Thimphu) 59 Haa 97-8
driving 292-3 Eundu Chholing 126
Deothang 136 Haa Dzongkhag 96-100
driving licences 293 events 22, 32-4, see also
Dhrolung 74 Haa tsechu 25, 98
Drolma 246 festivals, tsechus
Drametse 156 Haa Valley 17, 96, 98-9, 17
exchange rates 19
Druk Path trek 172-5, 174 Hamilton, Alexander 220-1
Drolay (Dalay) 103
Druk Wangyel tsechu 26 handicrafts 47, 69, 70
Dzongdrakha 95
Drukpa Kunley 248 F Gangte 111 health 294-300
duars 220, 221-2, 264 festivals 22, 32-4, see language 304
also tsechus Karma Thegsum
Duer 198 Dechenling 165 trekking 171-2
Duer Hot Springs trek Black-Necked Crane
Katsho 99 hepatitis 296
197-9, 196 Festival 26, 113
Khuruthang 103 hiking, see trekking, treks,
Duksum 162 Chorten Kora 23, 163
Kunzangdrak 139, 140 walks
Dungkhar 154-5 dates 34
Lhodrak Kharchu 130 Himalaya 263-4
Dungkhar Naktshang 154 Gom Kora 23, 161
Lungchutse 101 Hinduism 242
dzoe (spirit catcher) 235 Jampey Lhakhang Drup
Nimalung 25, 127 history 208-30
25-6, 33, 130, 135
Nyimalung 144 books 218, 219, 221, 224,
Losar 23
229, 230
Map Pages 000 Matsutake Festival 143 Pelri 94
British in Bhutan 219-25
Photo Pages 000 Ngang Lhakhang Pelseling 139
Buddhism 209
Shey 26 Phajoding 74
 31 1
modernisation 226-9 Juneydrak 98 Chhoeten 82-3 Lhedi 192-3
Treaty of Punakha 225-6 Jyongkhar 204 Chhundu 99 Lhuentse 153-4
holidays 284 Chimi 103 Lhuentse Dzongkhag 152-5
Hongtsho 100 Choejam 141 Lhuentse tsechu 26, 153
K
hot springs 108 Kalekha 110 Chorten Nyingpo 127-8 Limithang 188-9
hot-stone baths 277 Kanglung 165 Damchen 113 Lingmethang 149
houses, traditional karma 242 Dechenphu 72 Lingpa, Pema 12, 102, 141,

I N D E X H - M
Bhutanese 260-1, 260 Drolma Zhingkham 72 214-15, 248, 255
kayaking 278
Druk Choeding 83 Lingzhi 183-4
Keche La 193
Druk Wangyal 100 Lingzhi Dzong 187, 188
I Khadey Gom 178
Dukhor 134 literature 253, see
immigration 285-7, 288 Khaine Lhakhang 200-1
Dumtse 81 also books
incense factories 69, 95 Khaling 165-6
Gangchen Nyezergang Loju La 194
Indian nationals 36, 286, Khaling Wildlife
75 Losar 23
291 Sanctuary 271
Guru 91, 95, 136 Lungsum 198
influenza 296 Kharung La 166
Jaiphu 152 Lungtenzampa 159
insect bites & stings Khedo Tsho 184
299-300 Jakar 128 luso 241
Khoma 154
insurance 281, 294 khuru 238 Jampey 134-5, 12
internet access 281 Khuruthang 103-7 Jongsarbu 95 M
internet resources 19 kiras 70, 236-7 Kanjur 156 magazines 234, 283
arts 255 Kizum 140 Khandroma 140 Maitreya (Jampa) 134,245
black-necked cranes 273 Kohi La 190 Kharpo 97 malaria 296-7
health 295 Koina 190 Khewang 113 maps 44, 169, 281
history 208 Kori La 155 Konchogsum 139-40 markets 54-5, 83, 123, 16
music 253 Korphu 203 Kumbhu 113 masonry 249
trekking 45 Krishnagiri 166 Kurjey 135-6, 210-11, 259 Matsutake Festival 143
itineraries 27-31, 54 Kudra 203 Kyichu 15, 90-1, 15 Maurothang 195
Kuenga Rabten 125-6 Larjung (Larjab Drakar measures 283
Choeling) 155
J Kulaypang 200
Luege Rowe 136-7
medical services 295
Jakar 126, 128-31, 148, 129 Kuri Chhu 264 meditation 60
Mani Dungkhor 138 Membartsho 140-1
Jampa (Maitreya) 134, 245 Kuri Zampa 150
Nagpo 97 Menjabi 201
Jampelyang 246 Kurjey Drupchhu 136
Narut (Pelphug) 142 Menji 201
Jampey Lhakhang 134- Kurjey Lhakhang 135-6,
210-11, 259 Ngang 137-8, 139, 197 Menlong Brak 166
5, 12
Kurjey tsechu 25, 136 Nyzergang 108 Merak 204
Jampey Lhakhang Drup
25-6, 33, 130, 135 Kyichu Lhakhang 15, Pena (Puna) 81-2 Merak-Sakteng trek 203-4
Jangbi 203 90-1, 15 Phongme 160 Metshina 101-2
Jangchhu Lakha 173 Rigsum Goenpa 164 migoi 159
Jangothang 181-3 Sampa Lhundrup
L 136, 211
Miksa Teng 204
Janye Tsho 173 Labana 174 Milarepa 248
Sangay 136
Japanese B Encephalitis Labana La 174 mobile phones 285
296 Sarpa 53
Labatamba 175-6 monasteries, see goembas
Jaze La 193 Sey 134
language 301-6 money 18, 19, 282
Jhomolhari 48, 94, 110 Shamsul 142
langurs 15, 268-9, 269 Mongar 150-3, 151
Jhomolhari Loop (Soi Somtrang 142
Langye Ja La 173 Mongar Dzongkhag 148-52
Yaksa) trek 185-6, 181 Ta Rimochen 141
laundry 281 Mongar tsechu 26, 150
Jhomolhari trek 39, 179-85, Tago 94
Laya 189-90 monkeys 268
181, 10, 265 Tamchhog 95
Laya-Gasa trek 186-90, 187 monks 235, 242-3, 245,
Jichu Drakye 182 Tashichholing 123 247
Jichu Dramo 193-4 leeches 299 Thadra Ney 116 Monpas 204
Jigme Dorji National Park legal matters 281 Tseringma 156 monsoon season 18, 25
108, 270 leopards 169, 269 Tshering 95 Moshi 166
Jigme Singye Wangchuck lesbian travellers 281 Ura 142 Motithang 175
National Park 270 LGBTIQ travellers 281 Wengkhar 155 Motithang Takin
Jili Dzong 172-3 lhakhangs 257-9 Yakgang 150, 152 Preserve 16, 58-9
Jili La 172 Bondey 94 Zangto Pelri 60, 136, motorcycle travel 292-3
Jimilang Tsho 173 Buli 126 154, 166 mountain biking, see 
Jowo Sakyamuni statue Chakhar 135 Zhambhala 127 cycling
15, 93 Changangkha 54 Zungney 128
31 2
mountaineering 180 Torsa Strict Nature emergency services 89 Prakhar tsechu 26
museums & galleries Reserve 270 festivals 84 prayer flags 243, 21
Bhutan Postal Museum - Wangchuck Centennial food 87-8 prayer wheels 250, 15, 29
Post Office 59 Park 270 medical services 89 public holidays 284
Folk Heritage Museum newspapers 283 shopping 88-9 Punakha 100-7
59 Ngang Bi Rabney 138 sights 77-84 Punakha Drubchen &
National Institute of Ngang Lhakhang 137-8, travel to/from 89 tsechu 23, 105
I N D E X N - S

Traditional Medicine 139, 197

Paro Dzong 10, 77-80 Punakha Dzong 10, 104-5,
59-60 Ngang Lhakhang Shey 26 11, 29, 32
213, 11
National Museum 10, 81 Nimalung tsechu 25 Punakha Dzongkhag 100-8
Paro tsechu 23-4, 84,
National Textile Nimshong 203 24, 237 Punakha valley 107-8, 80-1
Museum 55 Nine Sisters 202
Paro valley 89-94, 80-1,
Simply Bhutan 59 Nomad’s Festival 23, 137 90
Tower of Trongsa Norbugang 102 R
passports 285-7, 288
Museum 15, 124-5, 14 nunneries Rabana 173
Pele La 110, 122
Voluntary Artists Studio Karma Drubdey 126 rabies 297
Thimphu 59 Pema Sambhava
Kila 97 Radak Neykhang 109
Lhakhang 140
music 232, 253 radio 283
Pema Tekchok Choeling Pemagatshel 166
musk deer 268, 274 Shedra 140 rafting 105, 278
Pemagatshel Junction 166
Sangchen Dorji Rangjung 159-60
Pemi 199-200, 201-2
N Lhendrub Choling 102 Rangjung Kharsapani 105
permits 286-7
Nabji 203 Thekchok Kunzang Raphstreng Tsho 193
Phajoding 174-5
Choeden 160 rashes 300
Nabji trek 202-3 Phenday Paper Factory 164
Zilukha 58 ravens 273
Nagpo Chenpo 246 Phephe La 197
Nyelung Dechenling 113-14 rebirth 241-2
Naktshang 155 Phibsoo Wildlife
Nyile La 183 red pandas 272
names 235-6 Sanctuary 270
Nyingmapa 210 religion 207, 241, 242, see
Namgo La 177 Phobjikha valley 111-15, 112
Namling 149 also individual religions
Phokpey 199
rhododendrons 16, 100,
Namling Waterfall 149 O Phongme 160-1
265, 16
Namseling 96 Ogyen Chholing 197, 199 photography 34, 283
rigsar 232
Nangsiphel 137 Ogyen Chholing Palace 141 Phrumsengla National Park
Rinchen Zoe La 194
Narethang 192 Om Tsho 195 149, 271
Rinchending 116-17
Narphung 166 Opagme 245 Phrumzur 203
Rinpung Dzong 10, 77-
National Institute for the opening hours 283 Phuentsholing 115-19, 118
80, 11
Visually Impaired 165 Owl trek 197 Pinchinang 166
Rinpung Goemba 176
National Institute for Zorig planning
Chusum 55 Robluthang 188
Bhutan basics 18-19
National Institute of P rock climbing 60
paan 280 Bhutan’s regions 47-8
Traditional Medicine 59 Rodang La trek 199-202,
Padmasambhava, see Guru booking your trip 35 200-1
National Library 59
Rinpoche budgeting 19 Rodophu 192
National Memorial
Chorten 55 painting 12, 250, 251-2, 5 calendar of events 32-4 Ronaldshay, Earl of 219,
National Museum 10, 81 palaces children, travel with 278 220, 223
national parks & reserves Dechenchoeling highlights 8-17 Royal Botanical Garden
274, 270-1, see also Palace 72 internet resources 19 (Serbithang) 75
wildlife sanctuaries Kuenga Rabten 125-6 itineraries 27-31 Royal Botanical Park 100
Chumey Nature Resort Ogyen Chholing tariffs 35 Royal Heritage Trail 198
127 Palace 141 tours 35-8 Royal Manas
Jigme Dorji National Ugyen Pelri Palace 84 transport 288-93 National Park 145,
Park 108, 270 Wangdichholing travel seasons 18 194, 271
Jigme Singye Wangchuck Palace 130 trekking 39-46 Rukubji 122
National Park 270 Palden Lhamo 247 plants 16, 265-6, see
Phrumsengla National Pam 165 also blue poppy,
Park 149, 271 S
Pangalabtsa 175 rhododendron SAARC building 54
Royal Manas National Pangri Zampa 72 poaching 267, 274
Park 145, 271 sacred sites 22
Panka 176 politics 206, 230 safety 171-2, 284, 294-300
papermaking 69, 251 poppies 99, 266
Saga La trek 178-9, 179
Paro 77-89, 82 population 207, 231
Sakteng 204
Map Pages 000 accommodation 85-7 postal services 284
Sakteng Wildlife
Photo Pages 000 activities 84 Prakhar Goemba 128, 8 Sanctuary 159, 271
 31 3
Sakyamuni 244, see Tamshing Phala Tiger’s Nest Monastery 9, Dagala Thousand Lakes
also Buddha, the Choepa 25 91-4, 176, 211, 9, 255 trek 175-6, 174
Salt trek 194 Tang 197 Tikke Zampa 110 Druk Path trek 172-5, 174
Sambitang 197 Tang valley 140-2 time 285 Duer Hot Springs trek
Samdrup Jongkhar 167 Tangmachu 153, 200-1 Tingtibi 144 197-9, 196
Samdrup Jongkhar Tango Goemba 72-4 tipping 282 Gangkhar Puensum Base
Dzongkhag 164-7 Tarina 192 titles 235-6 Camp trek 194

I N D E X S - T
Sampa Lhundrup Taupang 202 Toencha 193 Jhomolhari Loop (Soi
Lhakhang 136, 211 taxes 282 toilets 285 Yaksa) trek 185-6, 181
Sang Sangbe 200 taxis 293 Jhomolhari trek 39, 179-
Tongtongphey 203
Sangchen Choekor telephone services 285 85, 181, 10, 265
Torsa Chhu 264
Shedra 91, 176-7 Juniper trek 194
temples, see dzongs, Torsa Strict
Sangye Menlha 245 lhakhangs Laya-Gasa trek
Nature Reserve 270
sculpture 250
textiles 13, 252, 13 see Tour of the Dragon 278 186-90, 187
Sengor 148-9 also embroidery, Merak-Sakteng trek
tourist information 285
Sephu 122 weaving 203-4
tours 35-8
Sey Dzong 186 thadamthsi 236 Nabji trek 202-3
Tower of Trongsa
Shakshepasa 188 Thaga 193 Museum 15 Nub Tshona Pata trek
Shakshing 202 Thakthri 204 194
Tower of Trongsa Royal
Sharna Zampa 180-1, 186 Thampe La 195 Heritage Museum 124-5 Owl trek 197
Shelging Kharpo 211 Thampe Tsho 195 traditional dress 70 Rodang La trek 199-202,
200-1
Sherichhu 156-7 Thangthangka 180-2 Trashi Chhoe Dzong 51-4,
16, 34 Royal Manas National
Shershong 156 Thanza 193
Park trek 194
Shershong tsachhu 144 theatre 254-5 Trashi Yangtse 162-4, 202
Saga La trek 178-9, 179
Shing Karap 180 theft 285 Trashi Yangtse Dzongkhag
161-4 Salt trek 194
Shingkhar 142 Thimphu 47, 50-75, 51-2,
Trashigang 157-9, 157 Shabjithang trek 194
Shingkhar Rabney 142 56-7, 73
Trashigang Dzong 158 Singye Dzong trek 155
Shodu 184 accommodation 50, 62-5
Trashigang Dzongkhag Snowman trek 191-5, 191
Shomuthang 188 activities 60-1
155-61 Trongsa 123-5, 124
Shugdrak 137 climate 50
Trashigang tsechu 26, 158 Trongsa Dzong 15, 123-4,
Simkotra Tsho 173-4 drinking 68
travellers cheques 283 14
Simply Bhutan 59 emergency services 70
travel to/from Bhutan Trongsa Dzongkhag 122-6
Simtokha Dzong 75 entertainment 68
288-92 Trongsa tsechu 26, 124
Sinche La 189 festivals 62
travel within Bhutan 292-3 tsechus 9, 33, 34, 8
Singye Dzong trek 155 food 50, 65-7
trekking Druk Wangyel 26
snow leopards 164, 169, highlights 51
269 accommodation 44 Gangte Goemba 113
hikes 74
booking 42 Gasa 25
Snowman trek 191-5, 191 internet access 70
books 45 Gom Kora 23, 161-2
soccer 238 itineraries 54
clothing & equipment Haa 25, 98
Soi Yaksa 185 medical services 70 42, 43 Jakar 130
spas 20 shopping 68-70 guides 44 Jampey Lhakhang
sports 238, see also  sights 51-60, 75 health & safety 171-2 Drup 25-6, 33, 130,
archery, golf trekking travel seasons 50 internet resources 45 135
Surey 144 travel to/from 71 maps 44, 169 Kurjey 25, 136
travel within 71 meals 44 Lhuentse 26, 153
T walking tour 61, 61 pack animals 45 Mongar 26, 150
Ta Gume Thang 184 Thimphu tsechu 25, 62 planning 39-46 Nimalung 25
Tahung 197 Thimphu valley 16, 62, responsible trekking 45 Paro 23-4, 24, 237
Takethang 182 72, 80-1 Prakhar 26
routes 169-70
Takhung La 186 Thimyul 155 Punakha Drubchen
trail conditions 42
Taki La 201 Thinleygang 101 23, 105
weather 39
takins 268, 272, 21 Thirteen Arts 249-51 Thimphu 25, 62
websites 45
Taktshang Goemba 9, 91-2, Thombu Shong 185-6 Trashigang 26, 158
treks 10, 20, 169-204,
211, 9, 255 Thongsa Thang 195 40-1, 170 Trongsa 26, 124
Taktshang Parking Lot 177 Thowadrak Hermitage 142 Aja Ney trek 194 Wangdue 109
Talakha 176 Thrumshing La 148-9 Bridung La trek 194 Tsepame 245
Tale La 176 Thungdari 156-7 Bumdrak trek 176-8, 177 Tshenden Incense
Talung 178 Tibet 216-17 Bumthang Cultural trek Factory 95
Tama 144 tigers 269 195-7, 196 Tsho Chena 193
31 4
Tshokam 173 walking, see trekking, treks wars Khaling Wildlife
Tshophu 183, 185 walks 21, 84, 120, 164, see civil wars 218-19 Sanctuary 271
Tsochenchen 198 also treks Duar 223-5 Phibsoo Wildlife
tuberculosis 297 Bumthang valley 139 Tibet-Bhutan conflicts Sanctuary 270
Turner, Samuel 220-1 Dochu La 101 216-17 Sakteng Wildlife
Drak Choeling Retreat water 297 Sanctuary 159, 271
TV 283
139 weather 18, 278, see also Woche 192
typhoid 297
I N D E X T- Z

Gangte Nature Trail 114 individual regions women in Bhutan 233-4

Tzangkhar 160
Kilkhorthang Trail 114 weaving 13, 250, 252, 253, women travellers 287
Kunzangdrak Goemba 13, see also textiles women’s health 300
U 139 websites, see internet woodturning 251
Ugyen Pelri Palace 84 Luege Rowe 139 resources work 287
Umling Mani 201 Lumitsawa Ancient weights 283
Ungaar 200 Trail 101 western Bhutan 48, 76-119,
United Liberation Front of Pelseling Goemba 139 78-9 Y
Assam 228 Yadi 155-7
Phrumsengla National accommodation 76
Upper Paro Valley Park 149 yaks 183
climate 76
89-94, 90 Shashi La Nature yathra 133, 252
food 76
Upper Punakha Valley Trail 114 Yeli La 184
highlights 78-9
107-8, 80-1 Taktshang 92 yeti 159
travel seasons 76
Upper Sephu 195 Tharpaling Goemba 139 Yoleng Chhu 198
Wheel of Life 233, 241, 258
Ura 142-3, 148 Thimphu 61, 61 Yong Khola 149
White, John Claude 222
Ura valley 142-3 Ura–Geyzamchu Yotong La 126
white-bellied herons 273
Ura Yakchoe 24, 143 Walking Trail 142-3
wildlife 15, 20, 268-74, 14,
Wamrong 166 21, 269 see also birds Z
Wangchuck, Jigme 226-7
V golden langurs 15, 268- Zangto Pelri Lhakhang 60,
vacations 284 Wangchuck, Jigme Dorji 9, 269 136, 154, 166
226-7, 229 Zerim La 201
vaccinations 294-5 leopards 169, 269
Wangchuck, Jigme Khesar Zhabdrung Ngawang
vegetarian travellers 279 snow leopards 164, 169,
Namgyal 229-30 Namgyal 72, 74, 75,
visas 285-7 269
Wangchuck, Jigme Singye 215-18, 236, 248
Voluntary Artists Studio 229-30 takins 268, 272, 21
Zhemgang 143-4
Thimphu 59 Wangchuck, Ugyen 224-6 yaks 183
Zungney 127-8
volunteering 287 Wangdichholing Palace 130 wildlife sanctuaries 270-1,
see also national parks
Wangdue Phodrang 109-11,
& reserves
W 109
Bomdeling Wildlife
Wangchuck Centennial Wangdue Phodrang
Sanctuary 164, 271
Park 270 Dzongkhag 108-15

Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000
31 5

N OTE S
316 N OTE S
317

N OTE S
 FARAH MESBAHI

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319

Map Legend
Sights Information Routes
Beach Bank Tollway
Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway
Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary
Castle/Palace Internet Secondary
Christian Police Tertiary
Confucian Post Office Lane
Hindu Telephone Unsealed road
Islamic Toilet Road under construction
Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall
Jewish Other Information Steps
Monument Tunnel
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass
Ruin Beach Walking Tour
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour
Shinto Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail
Sikh Lookout
Taoist Mountain/Volcano Boundaries
Winery/Vineyard Oasis International
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Park State/Province
Other Sight Pass Disputed
Picnic Area Regional/Suburb
Activities, Waterfall Marine Park
Courses & Tours Cliff
Bodysurfing Population Wall
Diving/Snorkelling Capital (National)
Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (State/Province) Hydrography
Course/Tour City/Large Town River, Creek
Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River
Snorkelling Canal
Surfing Transport
Water
Swimming/Pool Airport
Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Windsurfing Bus
Reef
Other Activity Cable car/Funicular

Sleeping
Cycling Areas
Ferry
Airport/Runway
Sleeping Metro station
Camping Monorail Beach/Desert
Parking
Eating Petrol station
Cemetery (Christian)
Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other)
Taxi
Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway
Glacier
Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat
Cafe Underground station
Park/Forest
Other Transport
Entertainment Sight (Building)
Entertainment
Sportsground
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove
Shopping appear on the maps in this book
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