F IT T I N G T H E FIONA S UND R ES S

Simple adj ustments for princess

seamed bodices and darted skirts
ta b l e of c ontents

How to Assess Dress Fit page 3

Full Bust Adjustment page 4

Add Volume to Bodice page 5

Remove Volume from Bodice page 6

Raise the Bust Apex page 7

Lower the Bust Apex page 8

Gaping at Side Seam page 9

Gaping at Back page 10

Lengthen Bodice page 11

Shorten Bodice page 12

Sway Back page 13

Move Princess Seam page 14

High Seat Contour page 15

Low Seat Contour page 16

High Hip page 17

Low Hip page 18

Large Seat page 19

Small Seat page 20

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 2

ho w to assess dress fit

1. Follow the directions in the Fiona instruction booklet for choosing the correct size.
2. This pattern was drafted for someone with an average height of 5’-6”. If you are
much taller or shorter, or have had to lengthen or shorten patterns in the past,
follow directions in this booklet for lengthening the pattern appropriately.
3. Make a preliminary muslin. Ensure you test your muslin while wearing the bra you
intend to wear with your dress. If you are not planning on wearing a bra (ie. with
the backless bodice), test the fit while braless, since you may discover the bust apex
(or fullest part of the bodice bust) needs to be lowered to account for the absence of
bra/underwire lift.
4. Since there is zero ease through the bust, we suggest installing at least 5 buttons
along the bodice to prevent gaping. Other simple solutions for a gaping bust
that you may make to the pattern are horizontal buttonholes (to provide a touch
more ease), or by extending the under button band by a half inch to create more
coverage. You may also sew the button band closed and insert an invisible zipper
along the side seam.
5. Stand in front of a full-length mirror in good lighting, feet hip-width apart. Look
at the front first. Are there any drag lines along the abdomen, bust, sides, waist or
hips?
6. Does the waist seam sit at your natural waist? Does the fullest part of the bust sit at
the fullest part of your bust? Does the dress lay smoothly against your body under
your arms?
7. Look at the back with a hand mirror, or better yet, have someone take a picture of
you. Note any drag lines or feelings of tightness or looseness along the back, waist
and hips.
8. Take pictures of the front, side and back with your crotch more or less at eye level.
9. Study the following diagrams to see what fit issues you may be having.
10. Make corresponding adjustments to actual paper pat
11. Adjust muslin or fashion fabric you’ve cut out; many adjustments can be made to
the original fabric, but anything involving a slash and spread technique will have to
be recut.
12. Re-baste and try on. Take more photos so you can study the improvements.
13. Repeat as needed, or take a breath and say “Good enough!”, and get cracking on
your final dress.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 3

Bodice adjustments
F U LL B U S T A D J U S T M E N T
steps:
1. (A) Draw a line straight down from bust point
to waist. (B) Draw diagonal line from top of
bodice to bust point, halfway between notch
and center seam. (C) Draw third line from
bust point to side seam, halfway between top
seam and notch.
2. (A) Cut along straight vertical line from waist
to bust point and then up to top seam, leaving
a small hinge at the top. (B) Cut from side
seam to bust point, but do not cut all the
way through, leaving a small hinge. Spread
pattern pieces to add the width needed (see
note under “Solution” to determine how
much to add).
3. Fill in the “hook” area with paper (A from the
previous step). (A) Draw a line from the fullest
part of the bust to the bust apex. Cut along it,
leaving a hinge near the apex. (B) To remove
the dart you created at the side seam, rotate
the top piece down and tape along the seam
so it matches up - this will widen the short line
you cut at step A. Fill this with more paper.
(C) To true up the bottom waist seam, cut a
short horizontal line as indicated and lower
this piece so waist is level. Measure the new
seam line. (D) Finally, you must remove the
1” you added through the bust from the side
seam or else the bodice will not match the
skirt. Remove a 1” wedge from side seam.
4. You now must add the same amount of
length to the center front panel. Measure
the existing seam on the center front panel
and subtract from the length of the modified
seam on the side panel - this is how much you
need to add. Draw two lines across the piece
at approximately the same spot where you
added length on the side panel.
5. Cut along these lines and split the desired
amount. Fill with paper and true/smooth
seam line with one continuous line.

SY M PTO M : solution:
Bodice will be tight across bust with diagonal drag Create more width and length along bodice to
lines pointing from bust to side seams and top of accommodate larger bust using slash and spread
dress. The buttons will gape and horizontal drag method. To determine how much to add, measure full
lines may appear between breasts. and high bust; if the difference is more than 2”, you
need to add each additional inch divided by two (ie. if
the difference between full and high bust is 4”, you will be adding
2” in width to the bodice total. Since you are only modifying half
the bodice, you will add 1” in a full bust adjustment).
Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 4
Bodice adjustments
add v o l ume

SYM PTO M : solution:

Bodice will be tight across bust with diagonal This adjustment should be made if you need
drag lines pointing from bust to side seams to add just a little bit of width across the bust
and top of dress. It will not be quite as (1/2” or less). Draw in a more pronounced
pronounced as a full bust adjustment. curve at the fullest part of the bust on the side
front panel and fill in with paper. Measure the
new line and compare to the center front panel
seam; the difference will be added by slash
and spreading the center from panel. Split the
piece, add the difference and fill in with paper,
and smooth the new line.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 5

Bodice adjustments
remo v e v o l ume

SYM PTO M : solution:

Bodice will be loose across bust with vertical Start by pinning or pinching out the excess
lines along the fullest part of the bust - you along the side front panel only. Mark the
should be able to pinch out the excess. difference on the pattern piece and trim to
remove. Measure the new seam line; if it is
shorter than the seam line of the center front
panel, cut the panel and overlap the pieces to
remove the necessary length.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 6

Bodice adjustments
raise the b ust ape x

SYM PTO M : solution:

The fullest part of the bodice is too low; you (1) Draw a rectangle around the fullest part of
will notice puckering or excess fabric under the bust on side and center front pieces.
the best. You need to raise the apex of the
bust so the fullness of the bodice sits at the (2) Cut the boxes out and raise the desired
proper spot on your body. amount. Using a smooth continuous line,
redraw the bust curve joining the original
pattern and new bust apex.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 7

Bodice adjustments
Lo w er the b ust ape x

SYM PTO M : solution:

The fullest part of the bodice is too high; you (1) Draw a rectangle around the fullest part of
will notice puckering or excess fabric above the bust on side and center front pieces.
the breast. You need to lower the apex of the
bust so the fullness of the bodice sits at the (2) Cut the boxes out and lower the desired
proper spot on your body. amount. Using a smooth continuous line,
redraw the bust curve joining the original
pattern and new bust apex.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 8

Bodice adjustments
gaping at side seam

SYM PTO M : solution:

The bodice is too loose under the arm and Pinch and pin out the excess on your muslin.
gapes rather than sitting close to the torso. Transfer amounts to pattern pieces, and draw
new lines to remove width.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 9

Bodice adjustments
gaping at L O W E R b a c k

SYM PTO M : solution:

The bodice is too loose at the lower back and Pinch and pin out the excess on your muslin.
does not sit close to the body. Sew a deeper dart, and take in the upper bodice
the same amount, grading to nothing towards
the top of the bodice. For the backless version
of the Fiona sundress, increase the overlap of
the back pieces after sewing a deeper dart.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 10

Bodice adjustment
l engthen b odi c e

SYM PTO M : solution:

There is not enough length through the torso. Cut all bodice pieces along the indicated line
Vertical wrinkles form at waist and pull the and spread the desired amount; fill with paper.
waist seam up.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 11

Bodice adjustment
shorten b odi c e

SYM PTO M : solution:

The dress is too long through the torso. Cut all bodice pieces along the indicated line
Horizontal wrinkles form at waist. and overlap the desired amount.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 12

Bodice & skirt adjustments
s way b a c k

SYM PTO M : solution:

There is excess fabric pooling at the lower The dress needs less length/fabric along the
back along the waist seam. back. Pinch and pin out the excess on your
muslin and transfer amounts to pattern pieces.
Length can be removed from skirt and/or
bodice depending on how much you need to
remove. For more pronounced sway backs,
it made be necessary to rotate the skirt waist
seam and dart down slightly.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 13

Bodice adjustments
mo v e prin c ess seam

SYM PTO M : solution:

The front princess seam does not sit at a To move the line towards the side seam, cut a
flattering spot on the body. It is not drafted straight line down the center front panel and
to sit directly at the true apex of the bust, but spread the desired amount. Remove the same
you may want to shift it for aesthetic reasons. amount from the side front piece by cutting the
pattern piece in a straight line, and overlapping
the two pieces.
To move the seam line towards center front, do
the inverse: slash and spread the side front and
overlap the center front.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 14

Skirt adjustments
high seat c ontour

SYM PTO M : solution:

The curve of the bottom is higher than what Try sewing a shorter dart - this will raise the
is drafted, creating a horizontal wrinkle below apex of the dart and move the volume a little
the waistline. higher.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 15

Skirt adjustments
l o w seat c ontour

SYM PTO M : solution:

The curve of the bottom is lower than what is Try sewing a slightly longer dart - this will
drafted, creating a bubble or fullness around lower the apex of the dart and move the
the bottom of the darts. volume a little lower. If the dart is too long it
may look odd, so consider taking in the side
seams slightly as well.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 16

Skirt adjustments
high hip

SYM PTO M : solution:

The curve of the hip is higher than drafted, Add width and length to the hip by drawing in
creating tightness in that area. The fabric will a new, higher hip curve as illustrated to front
bunch above curve of the hip. and back skirt.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 17

Skirt adjustments
l o w hip

SYM PTO M : solution:

The skirt is loose at the side seam above the Remove width and length to the hip by drawing
hip, creating fabric volume in this area. in a new, lower hip curve as illustrated to front
and back skirt.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 18

Skirt adjustments
l arge seat

SYM PTO M : solution:

The skirt is tight across the seat, and the side Add more length and width to the seat. Add
seams curve towards the back. Diagonal drag width to center back, and rotate the waist seam
lines will radiate out from the fullest part of from the side seam to add length. Sewing a
the seat. shorter dart will also help.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 19

Skirt adjustments
sma l l seat

SYM PTO M : solution:

The skirt is loose across the seat, with soft Remove length and width to the seat. Remove
folds forming under the seat. Less fabric is width from center back, and rotate the waist
needed to accommodate a smaller seat. seam from the side seam to remove length.

Fitting Fiona | C l o s e t c a s e pat t e r n s 20