Understandin
g Apparel
Quality
Fabrics & Trims test report
Submitted by: -
Prince (BFT/18/513)
CONTENT: -
S.No Topic Page
. No.
1. Introduction to textiles testing 3
2. Fabric swatches 4-5
3. Burning test 6
4. Solubility test 7
5. Ends per inch (E.P.I.)/Picks per inch (P.P.I.) & Wales per inch 8
(W.P.I)/Course per inch (C.P.I.)
6. Density 8
7. Feeling Test 9
8. Tensile strength 9
9. Elongation at break 10
10. Moisture regain 10
11. Elastic recovery 11
12. Trims Test Method & Standards 12
13. Zipper 13
14. Sewing thread 14
15. Snaps, Tack Buttons & Rivets 14
16. Interlining 15
17. Button 16
What is Fabric Testing?
Normally garment is produced from fabric. The fabric can be woven or knitted
or knit fabric, solid color dyed, printed, check or stripe that is finished fabric.
Before making garments from those fabric especially for large quantity. It
should be kept in mind that the garment that the garment may be rejected by
the buyer due to some quality problem of the fabric although the fabric may
be brand new. To avoid such kinds of problem, fabrics have to test to identify
its actual quality before making the garments and it is called fabrics testing.
Objectives of Fabric Testing:
The reasons of carrying out tests on fabrics are numerous and some common
ones are pointed out in the below:
To check that the fabric conforms to fabric specification.
To note the effect of changes in structural details.
To note the effect of physical and chemical treatment, exposure to
weather or laundering or washing etc.
To obtain some identification of probable performance in use.
To investigate causes of failure and customers complain.
To help in designing of a fabric for a specific purpose.
To study the interaction of fibre, yarn and fabric properties.
Importance of Textile Testing
So, why is textile testing important? The most obvious reason is that it allows
companies, consumer groups and the government to make sure textiles are
safe, of good quality, and that the customer is getting what they are paying for.
Textile products are made around the world, and sent to markets around the
world. Testing ensures that something harmful or illegal isn't slipping through
the regulatory cracks.
Fabric Swatches
Cotton Wool
Silk Polyester
Nylon Acrylic
Jute Rayon
Linen Polypropylene
Burning test
The fibres being chemically different, they show different burning
characteristics which can be used to identify them. The burning test is a
relatively simple test as all that is needed is a flame and a keen observer who
should carefully watch and note down the observations made (a) when
approaching the flame, (b) on the burning behaviour inside the flame, (c)
during removal from the flame, (d) relating to the smell emitted, and (e) on the
residue left behind after the fibre has burnt out.
Fibre Approaching In Flame Behaviour outside Smell Residue
flame the flame
1 Cotton Do not shrink Burn readily Continue to burn, Burning hair Small amount of
without afterglow light grey ash
melting
2 Wool Curl away Burn slowly Self-extinguishing Burning hair Easily crushable
sputter black bead
3 Silk Curl away Burn slowly Self-extinguishing Burning hair Easily crushable
sputter black bead
4 Polyester Shrinks away Melts, burns Burns, drips, may Sweet smell Hard, tough
from flame slowly, drips extinguish of ester grey bead
because of
dripping
5 Nylon 6 Shrinks away Melts, burns Burns, drips, may Pungent, Hard, tough,
from flame slowly, drips extinguish burning light colour
because of beans
dripping
6 Acrylic Shrinks away Burns readily, Continues to burn Acrid Irregular, hard
from flame sputters black bead
7 Jute Catches fire Burns quickly Continues to Burning Light and grey
easily burn, doesn’t paper or
shrink from flame wood
8 Rayon Ignites quickly Burn quickly Continues to burn Burning Light grey and
with yellow paper feathery ash
flame
9 Linen Does not shrink Burns rapidly Continues to Burning Soft Grey
away from with a bright burn, there is an paper powdery
flame; Ignites yellow flame after glow smooth ash
easily on and light grey
contact with smoke
flame
10 Polypropylene Shrinks away Melts, burns Continues to burn Like burning Hard,
from flame slowly, drips rapidly, hot asphalt or Brow/yellowish
melted stretchy paraffin wax bead
substance
Solubility test
Step 1: Treat the fibre sample with 0.25-0.50% sodium hypochlorite solution. If
soluble, they may be wool or silk. (To distinguish between the two, treat the
fibre in cold 70% sulphuric acid- if soluble, it is silk, otherwise wool.
Alternately, test the fibre for sulphur, which is present in wool). If the fibre is
insoluble in sodium hypochlorite, go to Step 2.
Step 2: Treat the fibre with cold acetic or glacial acetic acid. If soluble, the fibre
could be cellulose diacetate or cellulose triacetate. (To distinguish between the
two, treat the fibre with methylene chloride. If soluble, it is cellulose triacetate,
if not cellulose diacetate). If the fibre is insoluble, go to Step 3.
Step 3: Treat the fibre with cold (heat if necessary) formic acid. If soluble, the
fibre is nylon 66 or nylon 6. (To distinguish between the two, treat the fibre
with boiling dimethyl formamide (DMF). If soluble it is nylon 6, otherwise nylon
66. Alternately determine their melting points. Nylon 6 melts at 218º C, nylon
66 at 265ºC). If the fibre is insoluble, go to Step 4.
Step 4: Treat the fibre in cold DMF. If soluble it is acrylic fibre, if insoluble, go to
Step 5.
Step 5: Boil the sample in chlorophenol. If soluble, it is poly (ethylene
terephthalate) (polyester) fibre. If insoluble, go to Step 6.
Step 6: Treat the fibre with 70% sulphuric acid. If soluble, it could be cotton or
viscose rayon (To distinguish between the two, treat them with sodium
Zincate. If soluble, it is viscose rayon). If insoluble in step 6, go to step 7.
Step 7: Put the sample in water. If it floats, it could be polypropylene (PP) or
polyethylene (PE). PP is soluble in boiling carbon tetrachloride; PP is soluble in
boiling xylol.
Ends per inch (E.P.I.)/Picks per inch (P.P.I.) & Wales per inch (W.P.I)/Course
per inch (C.P.I.)
Fabric
Cotton E.P.I. – 97
P.P.I – 56
Wool W.P.I. – 25
C.P.I – 15
Acrylic W.P.I. – 30
C.P.I – 22
Silk E.P.I. – 125
P.P.I – 118
Polyester E.P.I. – 133
P.P.I – 86
Nylon E.P.I. – 72
P.P.I – 63
Linen E.P.I. – 42
P.P.I – 36
Jute E.P.I. – 46
P.P.I – 28
Rayon E.P.I. – 68
P.P.I – 52
Density
The definition of density is derived from the relationship volume X density = mass,
i.e. density is the mass per unit volume of a substance and its units, are gm/cm 3.
Mass and thickness to be calculated separately and then the result is compiled.
Fabric Density gm/cc3
1 Cotton 1.52-1.55
2 Wool 1.30-1.33
3 Silk 1.25-1.34
4 Polyester 1.38-1.40
5 Nylon 6/Nylon 66 1.14
6 Acrylic 1.16-1.19
7 Jute 1.49-1.50
8 Viscose rayon 1.49-1.52
9 Linen 1.53-1.55
10 Polypropylene 0.91
Feeling Test
It is a subjective test and can only be performed by one with skill in this art
acquired after handling many different fabrics over a period of time-this refines
the individual’s perception, e.g. when he feels fabrics through his fingers, the
warmth in the finger is retained when the fibre is wool but is conducted away
when touching fibres like cotton, linen or rayon, the fabrics thus feel cold to
touch.
Cotton is cool to touch and feels soft and inelastic. Linen is cold and smooth
and has a leathery feel. However, the feeling test has its limitations and cannot
always be relied upon.
Tensile strength
Tensile testing is the most commonly applied test method for analysing the
mechanical properties of fabric materials. Although the direction of applied
force is always in tension, there are a variety of tensile test methods available
for capturing the most relevant data for final product usage.
The strip test is a tensile test in which the full width of the test specimen is
gripped in the tensile grip jaws of a universal testing machine. During this test,
tensile force is applied on the fabric specimen until it ruptures. Mechanical
properties to analyse include the force at rupture and the elongation
(expressed as percentage) at maximum force and/or at rupture.
Fabric Gm/den
1 Cotton 3-5, wet strength is 20% more than dry strength.
2 Wool Dry - 1-1.7
Wet – 0.8-1.6
3 Silk 2.4-5.1, wet strength is 20% less than dry strength
4 Polyester 3-3.5
5 Nylon 6 4-9, wet strength is 90% more than dry strength
6 Acrylics Dry – 5
Wet – 4.8
7 Jute 3-5.8 in dry state
8 Rayon 2.4-3.2 in dry state, wet strength is up to 50% less than dry
strength
9 Linen 5.5-6.5 in dry state, wet strength goes up to 40-50% more than dry
strength
1 Polypropylen 3.5-5.5
0 e
Elongation at break
Fabric
1 Cotton 3-7%
2 Wool 25-35%
3 Silk 20-25%
4 Polyester Up to 45%
5 Nylon 6 15-30%
6 Acrylic 20-50%
7 Jute Up to 6%
8 Rayon 15-20%
9 Linen 2.7-3.5%
10 Polypropylene 40-100%
Moisture regain
Moisture regain is defined as the percentage of water present in a textile
material of oven dry weight.
The percentage of moisture in a textile material brought into equilibrium with
a standard atmosphere after partial drying, calculated as a percentage of the
moisture-free weight.
Let,
Oven dry weight = D
Weight of water = W (= Original weight- oven dry weight)
Moisture Regain = MR or R
Then, MR (%) = 100 * (W/ D)
1 Cotton 8%
2 Wool 16-18%
3 Silk Up to 35%
4 Polyester 0.4%
5 Nylon 6 3.5-5%
6 Acrylic 1-2.5%
7 Jute 13.75%
8 Rayon 11-13%
9 Linen 10-12%
10 Polypropylene 0-0.05%
Elastic recovery
Elastic recovery is the percent to return from elongation towards its original
length. If a fabric returns to its original length from a specified amount of
attenuation, it is said to have 100% elastic recovery at x-percent elongation.
Elastic recovery is expressed as percentage. The elasticity or elastic recovery of
a fabric is determined by several aspects like what type of load is applied and
how many times it is held in the stretched position
Fabric
1 Cotton At 2% elongation – 74% recovery
2 Wool At 2% elongation – 99% recovery
3 Silk At 2% elongation – 70% recovery
4 Polyester At 3% elongation – 80% recovery
5 Nylon 6 At 3% elongation – 95-100% recovery
6 Acrylic At 2% extension – 90% recovery
7 Jute At 2% elongation – 74% recovery
8 Rayon At 5% elongation – up to 80% recovery
9 Linen At 2% elongation – 65% recovery
Trims Test
Method &
Standards
Zipper (2cc/3cc concealed)
Manufacturing qualities No sharp points or edges
Durability and Color fastness to 1) No chipping, cracking, paint loss
Launder Appearance after wash 2) No change to surface finish
3) Staining 3.0; Shade changes 4.
Durability and Color fastness to dry 1) No chipping, cracking, paint loss
Clean Appearance after dry clean 2) No change to surface finish
3) Staining 3.0; Shade changes 4.0
Color fastness to light 4.0 minimum
Color fastness to crocking 5.0 dry; 4.0 wet
Color fastness to nonchlorine bleach 4.0 minimum
(colored zipper/teeth and tape)
Slider lockhold (Lock up) Brass/Nickel 8.4lbf
Plastic 5.5lbf
Element strength (individual strength Brass/Nickel 6.6lbf
of teeth) Plastic 5.3lbf
Bottom stop (strength of stop) Brass/Nickel 8.4lbf
Plastic 11lbf
Top stop (strength of stop) Brass/Nickel 15.4lbf
Plastic 17.6lbf
Crosswise strength (width strength) Brass/Nickel 66lbf
Plastic 52.8lbf
Tab pull off strength (tab which Brass/Nickel 22lbf
moves slider) Plastic 22lbf
Sewing thread
Yarn number size As claimed
Strength and elongation As appropriate for type of thread and
end-use.
Color fastness to launder and 4.0 minimum No color transfer
appearance after wash
Color fastness to dry clean and 4.0 minimum No color transfer
appearance after dry clean
Color fastness to water Migration 4.0 minimum No color transfer
(Home wash potential color transfer
staining due to prolonged wet state)
Snaps, Tack Buttons & Rivets
Manufacturing qualities No sharp point or edges
Durability and Color fastness to Launder No chipping, cracking, paint
Appearance after wash loss, color transfer
Durability and Color fastness to dry Clean No chipping, cracking, paint
Appearance after dry clean loss, color transfer
Color fastness to non-chlorine bleach- 4.0
colored snap
Attachment strength (measured anchor 15.0 lbs for 10 seconds
strength of snap)
Resistance to corrosion (metal components) None
Interlinings
Bond strength 0.5 lbs to 2.0 lbs depending on the end use in the strength
(Fusible of the bond between the interlining and the fabric
interlinings (Failing results must follow intended care dimensional
only stability and appearance after wash. Review visual for final
approval)
Dimensional 1) No pucker, bubble, or shredding, delamination or
stability, cracking
durability and 2) Must maintain and adhere bond
Colourfastnes 3) No incompatible shrinkage. Fabric and interlining cannot
s to launder react differently after fuse
Appearance 4) No different hand feel of fabric
after launder 5) No color change – fused and unfused. 6) Acceptable
hand-check for softening. 7) No shade off-use appropriate
color fusing (neutral/black/white)
Dimensional 1) No pucker, bubble, or shredding, delamination or
stability, cracking
durability and 2) Must maintain and adhere bond
colourfastness 3) No incompatible shrinkage. Fabric and interlining cannot
to dry clean react differently after fuse
Appearance 4) No different hand feel of fabric
after dry clean 5) No color change – fused and unfused. 6) Acceptable
hand-check for softening. 7) No shade off-use appropriate
color fusing (neutral/black/white)
Buttons
Ligne size As claimed
Manufacturing qualities No sharp point or edges Button hole
placement as approved
Durability and Color fastness to No chipping, cracking, paint loss,
launder Appearance after was color transfer (Any exceptions for
novelty items shall be approved by
the appropriate KS&C divisional)
Durability and Color fastness to dry No chipping, cracking, paint loss,
Clean Appearance after dry clean color transfer (Any exceptions for
novelty items shall be approved by
the appropriate KS&C divisional)
Color fastness to non-chlorine bleach Class 4
(colored/novelty finish button)
Plastic sew through flange Impact No cracks, chips, or breakage. (Drop
resistance (plastic only) Height:67mm)
Impact resistance (novelty/shell) No cracks, chips, or breakage
Non-metal resistance to flatbed No color change, breakage, cracks, or
pressing (measures durability of chips
button after pressing)
Color fastness to heat (hot pressing) Class 4
Resistance to corrosion (metal No corrosion or visual change
buttons only)
Button centre pull test 1) No cracks, chips, or breakage
2) No structural failure
3) No centre break out
