Sewing
Technology in
Denim Jeans
Manufacturing
Efforts by- Abhimanyu and Ahan
(BFT-4)
Why jeans?
Jeans are timeless. An all The growth potential is still More than 4 billion pairs of
time classic strong, Automated and jeans are sold each year and
advanced machine the 2021 market will
production because of rising experience a significant
wage growth in all the continents
Machine number for different stitches
FRONT BACK
Important brands involved in advanced
machineries and technology discussed
further
SIDE
2081/2083 C Field Application
● 2081: Top Stitching
● 2083: General Operations in most different garment
Single needle high speed sector.
seamer with drop feed
■ Good stitch length continuity and seam quality.
■ High flexibility due to the adjustable needle bar stroke (30.0
to 36.0 mm): One machine for all material thicknesses.
Specifications
● Max stitch length- 6mm
● Max speed- 5500 spm
● Clearance under sewing foot- 13.0mm
2081/2083- 731 Field Application
● Seams with neatly cut edges
Single needle high speed
seamer with drop feed and
edge trimmer
■ Good stitch length continuity and seam quality.
■ High flexibility due to the adjustable needle bar stroke (30.0
to 36.0 mm): One machine for all material thicknesses.
Specifications
● Max stitch length- 6mm
● Max speed- 5500 spm
● Clearance under sewing foot- 13.0mm
281-160362-03 Field Application
■ Universal use in all sectors of outerwear,
Sportswear, workwear and jeans.
Single needle high speed ■ for medium to heavy-weight material
seamer with drop feed
■ Semi-Dry-Head, oil-free machine head; only the hook is
lubricated
■ Integrated electromagnets for all functions, without
compressed air
Specifications
● Max stitch length- 6mm
● Max speed- 4000 spm
● Clearance under sewing foot- 16.0mm
● Needle size- nm 90-130
2542 plus Field Application
■ Two needle topstitching operations.
Double needle special sewing
machine with compound feed for
medium to heavy weight material.
■ Programmable multi switch in easy reach of the operator
■ Bobbin winder for a secure and fast start of the winding process
("winding assistant“)
■ Automatic presser foot lifting, backtacking and thread trimming
with thread ends < 13 mm
■ Two pre-selectable stitch length, alternately switchable
Specifications
● Max stitch length- 9mm
● Max speed- 3800 spm
● Needle gauge- 3.2-70
827-160122M Field Application
■ Decorative topstitching in the production of jeans,
sportswear and coats
Single needle sewing machine with
compound feed for multiple thread
decorative top stitching seams
■ Integrated direct drive with DAC classic control
■ Fashionable – even multi-coloured – decorative seams by
simultaneous sewing with multiple needle threads
■ Thread trimmer for thread sizes up to Nm 20/3
respectively 5 x Nm 80/3
Specifications
● Max stitch length- 7mm
● Max speed- 3800 spm
● Needle gauge- 3.2-50mm
● Needle size- Nm 80-130
● Max sewing foot lift- 16mm
827-160122M Field Application
■ Decorative topstitching in the production of jeans,
sportswear and coats
Multiple thread double needle sewing
machine with compound feed for
decorative top stitching seams
■ Integrated direct drive with DAC classic control
■ Fashionable – even multi-coloured – decorative seams by
simultaneous sewing with multiple needle threads
■ Thread trimmer for thread sizes up to Nm 20/3
respectively 5 x Nm 80/3
Specifications
● Max stitch length- 7mm
● Max speed- 3800 spm
● Needle gauge- 3.2-50mm
● Needle size- Nm 80-130
● Max sewing foot lift- 16mm
867-190040M Field Application
Universal sewing operations in production of jeans,
sportswear and coats
M-type 867-M ECO with XXL hook
Single Needle special sewing machine
with unisonfeed
■ The powerful and effective feeding system with bottom feed, needle
feed and alternating top feed guarantees trouble-free and
displacement-free material feed
■ The extremely high sewing foot lift up to 20 mm facilitates the feeding
and removing of bulky workpieces
■ The high top feed stroke up to 9 mm allows a safe climbing over
differently high material plies
■ Increased productivity due to the xxL hook
(70% larger bobbin capacity in comparison to the standard hook)
Specifications
● Max stitch length- 12mm
● Max speed- 3400 spm
867-290040M Field Application
Universal sewing operations in production of jeans,
sportswear and coats
M-type 867-M ECO with XXL hook
double Needle special sewing
machine with unisonfeed
■ The powerful and effective feeding system with bottom feed, needle
feed and alternating top feed guarantees trouble-free and
displacement-free material feed
■ The extremely high sewing foot lift up to 20 mm facilitates the feeding
and removing of bulky workpieces
■ The high top feed stroke up to 9 mm allows a safe climbing over
differently high material plies
■ Increased productivity due to the xxL hook
(70% larger bobbin capacity in comparison to the standard hook)
Specifications
● Max stitch length- 12mm
● Max speed- 3400 spm
● Needle gauge- 3-50mm
3713 Field Application
Over stitching side seams around hip curve.
Double Needle special sewing
machine with unison feed and large
vertical hook.
■ Large vertical rotary hook with 60% more capacity than other
standard-sized hooks
■ Rugged and durable machine concept
■ The high top feed lift (7.0 mm) allows trouble-free sewing of thick
materials and an easy sewing over cross seams
■ easy loading and unloading (even bulky
material) due to a high fabric clearance of 14.0 mm
■ Attachment and extras for many further operations comprise, e. g.:
welting operations, zipper operations, binding operations
Specifications
● Max stitch length- 6mm
● Max speed- 2600 spm
● Output in 8h- 1500 pairs of trouser
5483-814/06-94/01-BS Field Application
Making up Belt loops
Two- Thread chainstitch high speed
seamer with drop feed.
■ Optimum sewing reliability, even at max. speed
■ Low-noise, low-vibration running
■ Very good feed characteristics at low foot pressure
■ Infinitely variable stitch length
Specifications
● Max stitch length- 4.5mm
● Max speed- 6000 spm
● Needle Gauge- 4.5-6mm
5489-H Field Application
Sewing of lap-felled seams and yoke seams by jeans
Two- Thread chainstitch high speed
seamer with differential bottom feed
(double- lap seam)
■ The bottom feed can be set for stretching or gathering the lower
fabric ply
■ Stitch length regulator with integrated differential-feed control
levers
■ PFAFF 5489-H: Two needles or three needles
■ Special version: Parallel-working differential feed (-739/01)
and puller feed (-748/26) used for efficient and distortion-free
sewing of left-hand lap-felled seams
Specifications
● Max stitch length- 4.5mm
● Max speed- 5500 spm
● Clearance under pressure foot-7mm
581-341 Field Application
Button holes and round eyelets in uniform, sportswear
and jeans,
Automatic double-chainstitch eyelet
buttonholer with innovative Multiflex
cutting system.
■ Saving of machine parameters in machine-ID; all
parameters are retained after changing the control box
■ Improved seam quality by optimized needle thread tension with
self-monitoring function Use of long-life, electro pneumatic
valves
■ Double stitching function for expressive buttonholes with thin
thread sizes
Specifications
■ Cutting length 10 – 32 mm*
■ Diameter of round eyelets 1 – 4 mm*
■ Max. sewing speed 2,500 stitches/min.
3511 Field Application
■ For simultaneous run-stitching and trimming
small parts such as flaps, waistband extensions,
Automatic sewing unit for shoulder flaps, cuffs etc.
run-stitching and cutting small parts
in one step
■ Overlapping production method with the use of
sequence control unit
■ High output owing to the overlapped work method with
the use of two sewing jigs
■ S3 control panel with integrated data reader (SD-card)
for importing sewing programs or machine software
Specifications
■ Max. speed: 3,000 s.p.m.
■ Needle system: 134 KK
■ Output in 8h: 1,600 flaps
739-23-01 Field Application
■ Runstitching small parts like flaps
Runstitching flaps
■ Perfect seam courses and accurate repetition by means
of sewing templates
■ Freely programmable TAGLOG® chip for storing seam
course, sewing speed, stitch length and bartack length
■ Sets of parts for the self-manufacture of templates
available
■ Perfectly distributed fullness due to fullness bow on the
template
Specifications
■ 2,000 – 2,400 flaps / 480’
3719 Field Application
■ Fixing and top-stitching of the waistband (Jeans)
■ Options- ■ Customized sewing kits
Engineered workplace to attach ■ Customized attachments
waistbands
■ Basic machine to process waistbands for jeans and
work clothes using the “cut-to-size”-method
■ The proven PFAFF 5626 chainstitch inline forms the
core of this work station
■ The customized sewing kits in combination with the
unison feed ensure the reliable feed of the waistband
and the trousers
Specifications
■ Max. sewing speed: 3,600 s.p.m.
■ Max. stitch length: 4.5 mm:
■ Needle gauge 32.0, 34.8, 36.00, 38.00 mm
■ Option: 6.4 x 25.4 x 6.4 mm
3538 Field Application
■ Hemming of pockets
Pocket hemmer
■ A newly designed band feed, driven by a stepper motor
and optimized transport belts allows the universal
processing of assorted materials and material
thicknesses
■ Inserting station (+ photocell control) with automatic
start
■ Smooth and absolute straight pocket hem via optimized
hemming device with supporting transport
■ Automatic chain cutter and suction mechanism
Specifications
■ Max. sewing speed: 4,000 s.p.m.
■ Max. stitch length: 4.5 mm
■ Needle gauge, standard: 6.4 mm
■ Needle gauge, option: 3.2 mm, 4.8 mm, 7.2 mm, 8 mm, 9.6 mm
3840 Field Application
■ Automatic attachment of belt loops to jeans,
Integrated workstation to attach belt work trousers and sports apparel
loops
■ High productivity and easy servicing
■ Sewing head: PFAFF 2-needle bartacker (lockstitch)
■ Length-cutting equipment for the belt loops
■ Detection for the loop start and removal
■ Loop feed with folding device
■ Simple adjustment of the loop lengths
■ ergonomically designed handling for the operator
■ electr. bobbins to wind with steady thread tension
Specifications
■ Max. sewing speed: 3,000 s.p.m.
■ Stitch length: 0.1 up to 12.7 mm
■ Needle size: Nm 110 - 120
■ Needle gauge: 20 up to 80 mm
588-05/020 ...-15/020 Field Application
Programmable automatic pocket ■ Automatic creasing and attaching of pockets in
jeans, workwear and sportswear
setters for jeans and work wear
■ The intermittent material feed guarantees feed stop
when the needle enters the material and reduces hook
wear to a minimum
■ Touch-control-panel P1 with integrated SD card reader.
The P1 guarantees an intuitive operation
■ High sewing reliability and even seam quality, due to a
special sewing head.
■ Seam programming and seam correction using the
integrated machine control panel guarantee high
flexibility
Specifications
■ Max. speed: 4,000 s.p.m.
■ Size of sewing area:
subclass -05/020 250 x 250 mm
subclass -15/020 280 x 280 mm
■ Output in 8h: 2,400 standard pockets
806N-111-01 Field Application
Sewing unit for automatic creasing ■ Automatic creasing and attaching of pockets in jeans,
workwear and sportswear
and attaching of pockets in jeans and
workwear
■ Maximum efficiency due to automatic creasing,
attaching and stacking
■ Fully overlapped work cycle
■ easy operation and short training times
■ Touch panel PC with software (“DACAD”) for the
creation and modification of flexible seam programs
■ exact seam contour due to fine adjustment of the seam
programs (creasing, corner and tack stitches) directly at
the sewing unit
Specifications
■ approx. 1,800 pockets (with double seam and bartack) / 480’
906-01 Field Application
● Pocket attachment in jeanswear, sportswear and
Sewing unit for attaching precreased workwear
jeans pockets
■ High bobbin thread capacity by xxL vertical hook (Ø 32 mm)
■ Thread breakage identification with automatic sewing stop
and monitoring of the bobbin thread capacity by thread
consumption control
■ electromagnetic thread clamping device for neat seam beginning
■ Large bobbin thread capacity due to xxL vertical hook (Ø 32 mm)
■ Quick and easy change of pocket shapes
■ Quick seam change by means of DACAD software, simply
transferable by USB stick
■ Sewing thread size up to Nm 15/3 max.
Specifications
■ Approx. 1,800 pockets (with double seam and
bartack) / 480’
1222-5-1 Field Application
■ Serging of long seams in jeans
Single head overlock units for serging
of jeans
■ Serging with 9.6 mm throw width
■ Constant sewing results
■ Regular seam widths by means of accurate edge guiding
■ High sewing speed
■ High productivity through overlapping working
■ Short instruction times due to easy handling
■ High application flexibility
■ Freely programmable seam sequences
Specifications
■ Serging front and hind trousers
(8 seams per trousers) = 700 – 800 trousers / 480’
1280-5-1 Field Application
● Classical trousers and skirts
Semi automatic sewing of jeans side ● Sportswear trousers
seams and in seams
■ Maximum flexibility by use for double-chainstitch seams
or 4-thread and 5-thread safety seams alternatively
■ Perfect fit due to partial fullness distribution in the upper or
lower material ply
■ Automatic fullness distribution by pneumatically controlled
top feed and bottom feed
■ Step motor-controlled fullness distribution (optional)
■ equipment for manual sewing in the hip curve section
when processing side seam pockets or wing pockets
Specifications
■ 1,550 – 1,700 side seams / 480’
■ 1,700 – 1,900 inseams / 480’
■ 380 – 400 complete trousers / 480’
Technical Symbols
Technical Symbols
Technical Symbols
Sources Thefinestthread.com
In.apparelresources.com
https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2018/11/se
wing-machines-for-denim-jeans.html
http://www.pfaff.com
http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/index.html
And google images for visuals
Fin!