R. M.
Jordan
U. of Minn •
.
-.
WOOL
1. How and from where it grows
A.
B.
.
Elongation from base of fiber:
Come from woel follicle.
1. Primary
~•...'_ Q"v_No ""A ~"J-~",
2. Se"condary
C. Growth process continuous
II. Woel fiber
A. Epidermal or outer scaly layer - scale point toward tip
B. Cortex - spindle shaped cells
C. Medulla - globular shaped cells - thin walled undesirable
I~I. Wool vs. hair
Wool is finer, usually colorless - grows much denser (50,000 fibers/ ~
~g(~
sq. inch.)
Hair i5 always medullated, no crimp or scaly epidermal layer.
IV. Chemical properties
A~ Keratin - wool made up of 18 amine acids - carbon, H2,,02' N and S.
Amino acids join in long polypeptides. The protein chains gives wool
~-"
its stretch. (coiled like a spring)
Wool Characteristics & Properties
A. Fire resistant
B. Absorbs moisture and" evolves heat in doing 50, 50 doesn't feel damp
C. Stretches - elastic - drapes & wrinkles fall out
D. Wear resistant - looks new when oid
1
2
1 E. Light wt. and yet excellent insulation
'Static resistant doesn't attract lint and dirt
G. Dyes weIl
H. Easy to work with
1. Scales on epidermal layer to felt
Woo1 Gradins
Blood
Microns- No.hanks
1. Historica1
- Actual % ofMicrons
Merino
measurement
31.0
36.2
17.7 Count
24.9
27.8 32.7
-per-\...
38.1
19.1 26.4
58 's
29.3 29.3 - 31.0
. Count
~.•.Explanation
Systems
:r <• 3/8 1/2 80's
used (560
t17.7
yds.)
26.4
22.0
38.1 .or
--
-- less
Ib.
27.8
23.5
40.2 of tops.
",..)..'J
\:,,,~"/.-~
23.532.7
[19.1 - -24.9
46'sJ
34.9 34.9
20.6
36.2
and up ( 62's
20.636-'s] (
22.0
. A.
Blood eo,.J
GO'.
{{ 56'.
44'. J
] Q 60'. J
3
3. Traits associated with grade
A. Breed Î
B. Length -(short - fin~(IOng coars~)
C. Crimp/inch
D. Density - on sheep or in hand
~
4. Physical properties affecting value and uti1ity to mi11
C· A.
Yie1d of clean r;jfibers \Î,
Staple length '\ 'J--:; J'
~.:,
Grade - fineness - uniformity ~
Other factors that are often components of the above:
1. Soundness no ils or break; change the length grade
2. Condition vegetab1e materia1
3. Color - stained - black fibers
4. Crimp - character, hand1e
l'
5. Major factor or traits associated with yie1d of wool
A. Environment - dirt,. sand, manure, water. location
B. Fineness grade - fines shrink more, staple 1ength (breed)
C. Size/volume or loftiness.yield is estimated or core tested
J
6. Wool producers affect on wool value
A. Nutrition
B. How he feeds - chaff - paint
C. How he shears - second cuts, shear on c1ean surface, whether he tags
first or separa tes tags
D. How and with what he ties it, sisal, vegetable, woo1 box, dense heavy
shrink
E. How he stores it, wool will take on or give up moisture
F. Sorts - live and dead woal separate, black woal separate.
'4
7. Effeet of grade fineness and length grade on priee and why.
A. The why - fine diameter wool can be spun finer, more versatile fine
~ o..'~~,1
more expensive garments.
Long wool has less spinning loss and ean be made into more expensive
material.
Grade lengths are: eornhing (staple or worsted) Freneh combing and
elothing.
What qualifies for ècmbing wool is determined by its fineness grade.
Fineness Length Priee per lb. elean wool
grade (unstretehed) Combin.s. Fr. eombing Clothin.s.
\
Fine 2-3/4" -
$1.10 [1-3/4$1.05- 2-3/4 J 1-3/4 or less
.98
- 3"1
1/2 3 - up 2 " or less
1.05 C 2 .95 .90
3/8 3.5 up 3.4 or less
.95 .89
1/4 4.0 - up 3.9 or less
.90 .85
Low 1/4 4.5 - up uS 4.4 or less
.85 .80
Priee on the raneh is determined by figuring priee/lb. of seoured wool of a
eertain length and fineness grade; less shrink; less handling, lese transporta-
tion to Boston.
~
Biggest seourge ta waal use by mills is
1. Variation in quality
2. Labor of preparing it
r;. , 3. Variation in priee
5
Wool Processing
~
1. Sorting and blending
2. Scouring
3. Carding - cylinder cards work wool into fine thin web drawn off into rovings
then tops to make woolen (fibers "skew g") or worstéds -
(gabardines aIl fibers parallel)
4. Dyeing
5. Spinning - twist the woolen or worsted roving into yarn ..
6. Weaving.- warp - length wise
weft or woof or filling are sent in crosswise - twill
7. Knitting - interlocking
8. Pile fabrics - an-additional filling yarn sent through the warp - extra weft
cut as in plush or uncut as in Brussels carpe~s
9. Felt
10. Finishing - fluff 'or shorn
New Developments in Wool
1. Moth proof
2. Permanent crease - synthetic spray
3. Light weight 7 ounc~jd for men
3-4 ounces/yd for women
4. Shrink proof - in water
5. Machine washable
6. Bonded wool - fastening two different clothes together
7. Color
1
GENETle Fi\CTORS DETERMI,!\j " ...•.
L
,.'b UO('
{ •. c 1.)1\ Pr:R"
"J D'j'''''TJ(\k! ,.~\ il/...
'.cA" H
~
'~..
'>{I.,
~"~,,,;
~
A. f sheep
B. ln foJds
• 001 foUides/unit of area
1• d r'&b er .eng
c, d
tJ..
2. Fiber diameter
3. Density
4. EFFECT OF LAMB PRODUCTION
Wooi Production
-.------------.----.-.-.---- -----------.-------------- ...•
o. Lam ( 2 3
ned
••r ._, • •• ••_ •• ••__ •
1 Ll. ,î\IOO
r al as la mas 7.9 1. ~',
"' '" 6.4 6.0
rro as vrL. 7.2 7• 6. 7 6 ~~
..
..) ",
----.-----------
l
FACTORS EFFECTfNG WOOL PRODUCTION
_, .• _ 1. ._ •••• _
7.. Pr~nan, ..
2. i.~ R. latiation
3.
9.. ParasitflS lkfL~.
,~k\ >t~~l\-
1 "
• Monr grade .0.. ' 5 easop."., (1\..<\
..
,. '·ber length
6. Nutrition
1 vield 40~
1
ferenc€4 .•....
EFFECl OF AGE AND TYPE Of B
ON WOOl 'Pf<ODUCTiON
.-----•...•... ,,_._-----------_.,.--'---'-- ~,-,-_.---_.,. ....
EfFECT OF GRADE ON WE'G~rr /\ND
ri BER lENG rH
Nooi
Ib .
.
Fïber Length
;/.1
141. /~ ,/Al~•.•
loi / 13
81 //
x
61'-···--~-·-----·_---tIlJ----<,;;- .' Il
12
)
L FACTORS EFFECTING EFf tC IENey Of
waOl PRODUCT.ON
.------ .. -,. ---_ .._-_.
... ~" __ _---_.-.-----_._-_
•..•.• .. _,--
/ Wool
ib.
11
1
8i Heredity
1
2. TOWARDS MORE WOOL·
_____
Woot
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ib '_' '_'
..•heer,/Acre P·Qr
\4t~ Der
Ii t". ~
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il..
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~ , ••.•d 49
40
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Acn;
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r-v.M
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7.0 4 10
9~5
8.5 .},.c ....
5.0 5
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