XL_brother_cover_Eng

1 KNOWING YOUR
SEWING MACHINE

2 STRAIGHT AND
ZIGZAG STITCHING

3 BUILT-IN STITCHES

4 SEWING BUTTONHOLES
AND BUTTONS

5 USING ATTACHMENTS
AND APPLICATIONS

6 APPENDIX

ENGLISH
XXX-XXX
Operation Manual
XXXXXX-XXX
Printed in China
 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following:

Read all instructions before using.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine
from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug the machine before you change the light bulb.
Replace the bulb with same type rated 15 watts.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is
used by or near children.
2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized
dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
8. To disconnect, turn the machine switch to the symbol “{” position which represents off, then
remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle, causing it to break.
14. Switch the machine to the symbol “{” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the
needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser
foot, and the like.
15. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without
supervision. (For Australia and New Zealand only)
17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.
 FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.

IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut
off and an appropriate three pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in
the plug.

NOTE: The plug severed from the main leads must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is
hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse
approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug.

Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

WARNING: DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED
WITH THE LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND
YELLOW.

The wires in this main lead are coloured in accordance with the following code:

Blue Neutral

Brown Live

As the colours of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured
markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows:

The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
‘N’ or coloured black or blue.

The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
‘L’ or coloured red or brown.

1
 UNPACKING/REPACKING INSTRUCTIONS
Keep the carton and packing materials. You may have to take or send the machine to be repaired. If you do not
pack it properly, or do not use the right packing material, the machine could be damaged.
Please follow the diagram below to unpack and repack the machine.

IMPORTANT
● This packing material is designed to prevent damage. Save this packing material if you need to
take or send this machine to be repaired.

PLEASE READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE YOU USE THE MACHINE.

To use the machine safely
1. Make sure you watch the needle carefully while you are sewing. Do not touch the handwheel,
thread take-up lever, needle, or other moving parts.
2. Turn off the main power and unplug the cord in the following circumstances:
• When you have stopped using the machine
• When you are replacing or removing the needle or any other part
• If there is a power failure while you are using the machine
• If you are checking or cleaning the machine
• Leaving the machine unattended
3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.
4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.

To give your machine a longer life

1. Do not store this machine in direct sunlight or in high humidity conditions. Do not use or store
the machine near a heater, iron, halogen lamp or other hot objects.
2. Use only mild soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
3. Do not drop or hit the machine.
4. Always consult this manual before you replace or fit presser feet, the needle, or any other parts to
make sure you fit them correctly.

To repair or adjust the machine

If the machine breaks down or needs adjustment, first follow the troubleshooting table in the
Appendix to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem is still there, consult your local
authorized dealer.

For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

2
CONTENTS

1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..........................................................5

THE MAIN PARTS ............................................................................................................... 5
ACCESSORIES .....................................................................................................................6
Optional Accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 6
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .....................................................................................7
Connecting Plugs .............................................................................................................................................. 7
Main Power and Sewing Light Switch ............................................................................................................... 8
Foot Controller .................................................................................................................................................. 8
Checking the Needle ......................................................................................................................................... 8
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................................................ 8
Changing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................................................. 9
Flat Bed Attachment ........................................................................................................................................ 10
Using a Free-arm Style .................................................................................................................................... 10
THE CONTROLS ............................................................................................................... 11
Pattern Selection Dial ...................................................................................................................................... 11
Patterns and Stitch Names ............................................................................................................................... 12
Stitch Length Dial ............................................................................................................................................ 14
Stretch Stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 15
Stitch Width Dial ............................................................................................................................................ 15
Reverse Sewing Lever ...................................................................................................................................... 15
THREADING THE MACHINE ............................................................................................ 16
Winding the Bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 16
Lower Threading ............................................................................................................................................. 18
Lower Threading (for models equipped with a quick-set bobbin) .................................................................... 19
Upper Threading ............................................................................................................................................. 21
Using the Needle Threader (for models equipped with a needle threader) ....................................................... 22
Drawing up the Lower Thread ......................................................................................................................... 24
Sewing with a Twin Needle ............................................................................................................................ 24
Thread Tension ............................................................................................................................................... 25
FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS .........................................................26

2. STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG STITCHING .........................................................27

Please Read Before Sewing ............................................................................................................................. 27
Straight Stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 27
Zigzag Stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 28

3. BUILT-IN STITCHES ......................................................................................29

Blind Hem Stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 29
Shell Tuck Stitching ......................................................................................................................................... 29
Elastic Stitching ............................................................................................................................................... 30
Double Action Stitching .................................................................................................................................. 31
Heirloom Stitching .......................................................................................................................................... 31
Overedge Stitching .......................................................................................................................................... 31
Feather Stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 32
Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitching ......................................................................................................................... 32
Decorative Stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 33

4. SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS ..................................................34

Making a Buttonhole (1-Step Automatic Buttonhole) ....................................................................................... 34
Adjusting Buttonholes ..................................................................................................................................... 35
Sewing Buttons ............................................................................................................................................... 36

3
 ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

5. USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS .............................................37

Zipper Insertion ............................................................................................................................................... 37
Gathering ........................................................................................................................................................ 38
Darning ........................................................................................................................................................... 38
Appliqués ........................................................................................................................................................ 39
Monogramming and Embroidering ................................................................................................................. 39
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES ................................................................................................ 41
Using the Walking Foot ................................................................................................................................... 41
Using the Quilting Foot ................................................................................................................................... 42
Using the 1/4-inch Quilting Foot ..................................................................................................................... 43

6. APPENDIX .....................................................................................................44
MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................ 44
Changing the Light Bulb .................................................................................................................................. 44
Cleaning ......................................................................................................................................................... 44
Troubleshooting .............................................................................................................................................. 46
INDEX ............................................................................................................................... 49

4
1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

THE MAIN PARTS 1

1 Bobbin winder (Page 16) D Pattern selection dial (Page 11)

This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the You can turn this in either direction to choose the stitch
lower thread. you want.
2 Spool pin (Page 16, 21) E Stitch length dial (Page 14)
This holds the spool of thread. This controls the stitch length.
3 Thread guide (Page 16, 21) F Buttonhole fine-adjustment screw (Page 36)
This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin G Handwheel
and then threading the machine. Used to manually raise and lower the needle.
4 Thread take-up lever (Page 21) H Main power and sewing light switch (Page 8)
5 Hole for extra spool pin (Page 25) You can turn the main power and sewing light switch
This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with the on and off.
twin needle. I Foot controller jack / socket (Page 7)
6 Stitch width dial (Page 15) Plug in the foot controller plug and connect the
This controls the stitch width. machine to the power supply.
7 Upper tension-control dial (Page 25) J Presser foot lever (Page 21)
This controls the tension of the upper thread. Used to raise and lower the presser foot.
8 Thread cutter (Page 28) K Buttonhole lever (1-Step automatic buttonhole) (Page 34)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes.
9 Needle threader (Page 22)
L Foot controller (Page 8)
(This is only available on certain models.)
You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to
0 Quick-set bobbin (Page 19) start and stop sewing.
(This is only available on certain models.)
A Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment Parts Code for Zigzag Presser Foot: XC4901-051
(Page 10) Foot Controller: Model KD-1902
B Presser foot (Page 9) Parts Code: XC7359-022 (110/120V Area)
C Reverse sewing lever (Page 15) XC7438-222 (220/240V Area)
You can push this to stitch in the reverse direction. XC7456-222 (U.K.)
XC7455-022 (Australia, New Zealand)

5
 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

ACCESSORIES
The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. We have designed these accessories to help you
easily perform most sewing tasks.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

6. 7. 8. 9.

Part Code Part Code

No. Part Name No. Part Name
USA Others USA Others
1 Zipper foot (1 pc.) X59370-021 5 Buttonhole Foot (1 pc.) XD1792-031
6 Button Sewing Foot (1 pc.) X59375-121
2 Bobbin (3 pcs.) SA156 SFB:
XA5539-151 7 Extra Spool Pin (1 pc.) 130920-021
3 Needle Pack (Regular Single 129583-021 8 Screwdriver (1 pc.) X55467-021
Needle HAX130 (3 pcs.))
4 Twin Needle (1 pc.) X57521-021 9 Darning Plate (1pc.) XC6063-021

Note
● The included accessories vary depending on the machine model.

Optional Accessories

1. 2. 3.

Part Code
No. Part Name
U.S.A. Others
F034N:
1 Walking Foot SA107
XC2165-002
F005N:
2 Quilting Foot SA129 XC1948-002

3 1/4-inch Quilting Foot SA125 F001N:

XC1944-002

6
 USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
1
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms

CAUTION
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time, otherwise a
fire may result.

Connecting Plugs Note

● When leaving the machine unattended, the
1 machine.
Connect the foot controller plug to the main switch of the machine should be
switched off or the plug must be removed
from the wall outlet.
● When servicing the machine, or when
2 outlet.
Connect the power supply plug to a wall
removing covers or changing bulbs, the
machine must be unplugged.
(For U.S.A. only)
● This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electric shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do
not modify the plug in any way.

7
 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Main Power and Sewing Checking the Needle

Light Switch The sewing needle must always be straight and sharp
This switch turns the main power and sewing light for smooth sewing.
on or off.

■ Checking the Needle Correctly

1 Put the flat side of the needle on a flat surface.
2 Check the needle from the top and the sides.
Dispose of any bent needles safely.

1 Turn on (toward the ‘I’ mark)

2 Turn off (toward the ‘O’ mark) 1

2
Foot Controller
1 Parallel space
When you press the foot controller down lightly, the 2 Level surface (bobbin cover, glass, etc.)
machine will run at a low speed. When you press
harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you
take your foot off the foot controller, the machine will Replacing the Needle
stop. You should make sure that nothing is placed on
the foot controller when the machine is not in use.
CAUTION
● Turn the main power switch off before
you change the needle. If you leave the
main power on and step on the foot
controller, the machine will start and you
may be injured.
1 ● Only use sewing machine needles for
1 Foot controller home use. Other needles may bend or
break and cause injury.
CAUTION ● Never sew with a bent needle. A bent
needle will easily break and cause injury.
● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to
build up on the foot controller. Doing so
Remove the power supply plug from the outlet.
could cause a fire or an electric shock. 1
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
2 the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so
Note that the mark on the handwheel points directly up.
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot Controller: Model KD-1902 Lower the presser foot lever.
This foot controller can be used on the 3
following machine models:
XL-3500, XL-3500i
XL-2600, XL-2600i
XL-3510, XL-3510i
XL-2610, XL-2610i
XL-3520, XL-3520i
1
XL-2620, XL-2620i
1 Presser foot lever

8
 Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
4 use a coin or screwdriver to turn the needle
clamp screw counterclockwise to remove the CAUTION
needle.
● Make sure you insert the needle until it
touches the stopper, and securely tighten
the needle clamp screw with a coin or 1
screwdriver. If the needle is not fully
inserted, or if the needle clamp screw is
loose, the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
1 Use a coin or screwdriver
2 Needle clamp screw

• Do not use excessive force when loosening Changing the Presser Foot
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
CAUTION
● Always turn off the power before you
change the presser foot. If you leave the
power on and step on the controller, the
machine will start and you may be injured.
● Always use the correct presser foot for
the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you
With the flat side of the needle toward the
5 back of the machine, insert the needle until it
use the wrong presser foot, the needle
may strike the presser foot and bend or
touches the needle stopper. Next, tighten the break, and may cause injury.
needle clamp using a coin or screwdriver.
● Only use presser feet that have been
designed to be used with this machine.
Using any other presser foot may cause
accident or injury.

You will have to change the presser foot depending

on what you want to sew and how.
■ Snap-on Type

Raise the needle to its highest position by

1 Use a coin or screwdriver 1 turning the handwheel toward you
2 Needle Stopper (counterclockwise), and then raise the presser
3 Needle
foot lever.
Put the twin needle in the same way.
2 presser foot holder to release the presser foot.
Press the black button at the back of the

1 Black button
2 Presser foot holder
3 Presser Foot

9
 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Put a different presser foot on the needle plate

3 so that the bar on the presser foot is in line
Flat Bed Attachment
with the slot on the shank.
The accessories are stored in a compartment inside
Lower the presser foot lever and fix the the flat bed attachment.
4 presser foot onto the shank. If the presser foot
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
1 open it.
is in the correct place, the bar should snap in.

1 Shank
■ Presser Foot Installation Orientation 2
1 Flat bed attachment
2 Storage compartment

Note
● Put the accessories inside a bag, and then
store the bag inside the compartment. If the
accessories are not in a bag, they may fall
out and be lost or damaged.

Using a Free-arm Style

Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular
and hard-to-reach areas. To change your machine to
the free-arm style, lift out the flat bed attachment.

Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to

1 release it.

1
CAUTION 1 Flat bed attachment
● If the presser foot is not installed with the
correct orientation, the needle may strike
the presser foot, which may bend or
break the needle and cause injury.

10
 THE CONTROLS

Pattern Selection Dial To choose a stitch, simply turn the pattern selection
dial in either direction. The next section shows
1
recommended stitch lengths and widths.
CAUTION
● When you use the pattern selection dial to
choose a pattern, turn the handwheel toward 2
you (counterclockwise) to set the needle in
the highest position. If the needle is in the
down position when you turn the pattern
selection dial, the needle, presser foot or
fabric may be damaged.

1
1 Pattern selection dial
2 Chosen pattern number
■ 35 Stitches (only available on certain models)

■ 25 Stitches

11
 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Patterns and Stitch Names

Pattern Recommended Recommended

Instruction
Stitch Name Width Length
35 Stitches 25 Stitches Manual Page
(mm (inch)) (mm (inch))

1-STEP AUTOMATIC 3-5 F- 1.5 34

BUTTONHOLE (1/8 – 3/16) (1/64-1/16)
0-5 (0-3/16)
STRAIGHT STITCH (Changes needle 1-4 27, 37, 38, 41,
position) (1/16-3/16) 42, 43

ZIGZAG STITCH 0-5 F-4 28, 36, 39, 41

(0-3/16) (1/64-3/16)
3-5 F-2
BLIND HEM STITCH (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 29

SHELL TUCK STITCH 3-5 F-3 29

(1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/8)
3-5 F-2.5
ELASTIC STITCH (1/8-3/16) (1/64-3/32) 30

STRETCH BLIND HEM 3-5 F-1.5 29

STITCH (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16)
STRETCH BLIND HEM 3-5 F-1.5
STITCH (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 29

ELASTIC SHELL TUCK 3-5 F-3

STITCH (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/8) 31

DOUBLE ACTION STITCH 3-5 F-3 31

(1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/8)
3-5 F-3
BRIDGING STITCH (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/8) 31

RAMPART STITCH 3-5 F-3 31

(1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/8)
3-5 F- 1.5
TRIANGLE STITCH (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) 33

Fixed
0-5 (0-3/16)
TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH (Changes needle 2.5 (3/32)* 27
position) Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
Fixed
TRIPLE ZIGZAG STRETCH 3-5 2.5 (3/32)* 32
STITCH (1/8-3/16) Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
Fixed
STRETCH OVERLOCK 3-5 2.5 (3/32)
31
STITCH (1/8-3/16)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)

* The stitch can also be sewn when the stitch length dial is set to .

12
 Pattern Recommended Recommended
Instruction
Stitch Name Width Length
35 Stitches 25 Stitches Manual Page
(mm (inch)) (mm (inch))
Fixed
ELASTIC OVERLOCK 3-5 2.5 (3/32)
31
1
STITCH (1/8-3/16)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
Fixed
3-5 2.5 (3/32)
FEATHER STITCH 32
(1/8-3/16)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
Fixed
3-5 2.5 (3/32)
ARROWHEAD STITCH 31
(1/8-3/16)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
Fixed
3-5 2.5 (3/32)
ARROWHEAD STITCH 31
(1/8-3/16)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
Fixed
3-5 2.5 (3/32)
DECORATIVE STITCH (1/8-3/16) 33
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
Fixed
3-5 2.5 (3/32)
LEAF STITCH (1/8-3/16) 33
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
Fixed
3-5 2.5 (3/32)
TREE STITCH (1/8-3/16) 33
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
Fixed
3-5 2.5 (3/32)
LEGS STITCH 33
(1/8-3/16)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)

Fixed
3-5 2.5 (3/32)
DECORATIVE STITCH 33
(1/8-3/16)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
STRETCH OVERLOCK 3-5 Fixed
STITCH (1/8-13/64) 33
2.5 (3/32)
STRETCH OVERLOCK 3-5 Fixed 33
STITCH (1/8-13/64) 2.5 (3/32)
3-5 Fixed
SMOCKING STITCH (1/8-13/64) 31
2.5 (3/32)

13
 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Pattern Recommended Recommended

Instruction
Stitch Name Width Length
35 Stitches 25 Stitches Manual Page
(mm (inch)) (mm (inch))

COMB STITCH 3-5 Fixed 31

(1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32)
3-5 Fixed
COMB STITCH (1/8-3/16) 31
2.5 (3/32)

DECORATIVE STITCH 3-5 Fixed 33

(1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32)
3-5 Fixed
FAGOTING STITCH (1/8-13/64) 31
2.5 (3/32)

DECORATIVE STITCH 3-5 Fixed 31

(1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32)

DECORATIVE HEM STITCH 3-5 Fixed 33

(1/8-3/16) 2.5 (3/32)
3-5 Fixed
DECORATIVE STITCH (1/8-3/16) 33
2.5 (3/32)

Stitch Length Dial CAUTION

Depending on the selected stitch, you may need to ● If the stitches are bunched together,
adjust the stitch length for best results. lengthen the stitch length and continue
The numbers marked on the stitch length dial represent sewing. Do not continue sewing without
the stitch length in millimeters (mm) (1/25 inch). lengthening the stitch length, otherwise
THE HIGHER THE NUMBER, THE LONGER THE the needle may break and cause injury.
STITCH. With the “0” setting, material is not fed. This is
used when sewing a button.
The “F” range is for making a satin stitch (close zigzag
stitch), which is used for making buttonholes and
decorative stitches. The position needed for making the
satin stitch varies according to the material and thread
being used. To determine the exact dial position, first
test the stitch and length settings on a scrap piece of
fabric to observe the feeding of the material.

2 3
1
1

1 Stitch length dial

2 Shorter
3 Longer

14
 Stretch Stitching Stitch Width Dial
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that
the mark on the handwheel points directly up.
■ 35 Stitches
the mark on the handwheel points directly up.
The numbers marked on the dial represent the stitch 1
width.
Selecting a Stretch Stitch THE HIGHER THE NUMBER, THE WIDER THE
Setting the stitch length dial to “ ” or “ ” STITCH.
changes the selected pattern to a stretch stitch.

Note
● When the Straight or Triple Stretch Stitch is
selected, the needle position can be
changed from left to right by adjusting the
stitch width dial.
■ 25 Stitches .

Selecting a Stretch Stitch

Setting the stitch length dial to “ ” changes the 1
selected pattern to a stretch stitch.

1 Stitch width dial

Reverse Sewing Lever

You can use reverse sewing for back tacking and
reinforcing seams.
To sew in reverse, push the reverse sewing lever in
as far as possible and hold it in that position while
you lightly push the foot controller. To sew forward,
release the reverse sewing lever. The machine will
then sew forward.

1 Reverse sewing lever

15
 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

THREADING THE MACHINE

Winding the Bobbin

CAUTION
● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)) that have been designed for this
sewing machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.
● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models,
the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)).
Actual size

11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model Other models

1Pre-tension disk
2Bobbin winder shaft

Put the spool of thread on the spool pin and Pass the end of the thread through the hole on
1 pass the thread around the pre-tension disk. 2 the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.

CAUTION
● If the spool of thread is not in the right
place, the thread may tangle on the spool
pin.

16
 Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft Press the foot controller to start.
3 and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. 6
Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the
spring on the shaft slides into the groove of
the bobbin.
1

2
When the bobbin seems full and begins
1 7 spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot
1 Spring on the shaft controller.
2 Groove of the bobbin

8 to the left and remove the bobbin.

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft

Note
● Make sure that the thread between the
spool and the bobbin is pulled tight.
. Note
● The needle bar does not move when you
While holding the end of the thread, gently slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
4 press the foot controller to wind the thread ● Immediately after winding the bobbin, it is
normal to hear the sound of the clutch
around the bobbin a few times. Then stop the
machine. engaging when beginning to sew or turning
the handwheel.

CAUTION
● Make sure you follow the instructions
carefully. If you do not cut the excess
thread completely before winding the
bobbin, when the thread runs low it may
tangle around the bobbin and cause the
needle to break.

Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.

5
CAUTION
● Not winding the bobbin properly may
cause the thread tension to loosen, and
may break the needle.

1 2
1 Wound evenly
2 Wound poorly

17
 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Raise the needle to its highest position by

1 turning the handwheel toward you
Lower Threading
(counterclockwise) and raise the presser foot
• For more details on using the quick-set bobbin, see lever.
page 19.

2
Slide the button and open the cover.
CAUTION 1 2
● Not winding the bobbin properly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, and may break
the needle.

1 Cover
2 Slide button

3 the direction shown by the arrow.

Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in

1 2
1 Wound evenly
2 Wound poorly
● The bobbin was designed specifically for
this sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not
operate correctly. Use only the enclosed
bobbin or bobbins of the same type
• Only use bobbins that were designed to be
(part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)).
used with this machine.
Actual size

11.5 mm CAUTION
(7/16 inch)
● Make sure you set the bobbin so the
This model Other models
thread unrolls in the right direction. If
the thread unrolls in the wrong direction,
it may cause the thread tension to be
CAUTION incorrect or break the needle.
● Make sure you turn the power off while • Make sure that the thread is correctly
threading the machine. If you accidentally inserted through the tension-adjusting spring
step on the foot controller and the machine of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted, re-
starts to sew, you could be injured. insert the thread.

1
1 Tension-adjusting spring

18
 Hold the end of the thread, push the bobbin
4 down with your finger, pass the thread
Lower Threading (for models
through the slit, and then pull out a short
equipped with a quick-set bobbin)
length of thread, as shown.
This feature is only available on certain models.
1
CAUTION
● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, breaking the
needle and resulting in injury.

5 place (see arrow 1), and then press lightly on

Reattach the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in

the right side (see arrow 2) until the cover

clicks into place.

2 1 2
1 Wound evenly
2 Wound poorly

1 ● The bobbin was designed specifically for

this sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not
• Replace the cover so that the end of the
operate correctly. Use only the enclosed
thread comes out from the left side of the
cover (as shown by the line in the bobbin or bobbins of the same type
illustration). (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)).
Actual size

11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)

This model Other models

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the power. If you
accidentally step on the foot controller
and the machine begins to operate, injury
could result.

19
 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Follow steps 1 and 2 from “Lower Threading”. Reattach the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in
1 3 place (see arrow 1), and then press lightly on

2 through the slit, and then pull the thread to cut it.
Put the bobbin in, feed the end of the thread the right side (see arrow 2) until the cover
clicks into place.

• You can begin sewing immediately without

• Only use bobbins that were designed to be drawing up the bobbin thread. If you want to
used with this machine. draw up the bobbin thread before you start
to sew, follow the procedure in “Drawing up
CAUTION the Lower Thread” (page 24).

● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread

unrolls in the right direction. If the thread
unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause
the thread tension to be incorrect or break
the needle.

1 Cutter
• Make sure that the thread is correctly
inserted through the tension-adjusting spring
of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted, re-
insert the thread.

1 Tension-adjusting spring

20
 Upper Threading

1 Spool pin
2 Thread guide (back)
3 Thread guide (front)
4 Thread take-up lever
5 Mark on the handwheel
Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of thread
CAUTION 3 on this pin.

● Make sure you thread the machine

properly. Otherwise, the thread could CAUTION
tangle and break the needle. ● If the spool of thread is in the wrong
place, or is set incorrectly, the thread
IMPORTANT: may tangle on the spool pin and cause
1 Raise the presser foot using the presser foot
the needle to break.
lever.
Feed the upper thread as previously shown.
4 Pass the thread through both thread guides:
the back one first, and then the front one.

Make sure you guide the thread through the

5 thread take-up lever from right to left.

1
1
1 Presser foot lever

Raise the needle to its highest position by

2 turning the handwheel toward you 1
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on the
handwheel points directly up.
• If the needle is not correctly raised, the 1 Thread take-up lever
sewing machine can not be threaded.
Be sure to turn the handwheel so that
the mark on the wheel points up before
threading the sewing machine.

21
 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

Put the thread behind the guide above the

6 needle.
Using the Needle Threader (for models
• The thread can easily be passed behind equipped with a needle threader)
the needle bar thread guide by holding
the thread in your left hand, then This feature is only available on certain models.
feeding the thread with your right hand.
Turn the power off and lower the presser foot
1 lever.

Raise the needle to its highest position by

2 turning the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on the
handwheel points directly up.

1 Needle bar thread guide

1 Needle holder
IMPORTANT:
7 Thread the needle from front to back leaving a
2 Needle threader lever

thread tail of about 5 cm (2 inch).

• If your sewing machine is equipped with a Note
needle threader, use the needle threader to ● When you use the needle threader, make
thread the needle (see next section). sure the needle holder is in the highest
position, otherwise the hook may be
damaged.

While lowering the needle threader lever,

3 hook the thread onto the guide.

1 5 cm (2 inch)

Note
● If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the
upper thread can not be wrapped around
1
the thread take-up lever. Make sure you
raise the presser foot lever and the thread 2
take-up lever before you feed the upper
thread.
● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
3

1 Needle holder
2 Needle threader lever
3 Guide

22
 Pull down the needle threader lever as much Raise the needle threader lever and pull out
4 as possible, and then turn the lever toward the 6 about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread through the
back of the machine (away from you). Make needle toward the back of the sewing
sure that the hook passes through the eye of machine.
the needle and grabs the thread.
1

2
1 1
1 Hook
2 Thread CAUTION
• Hold the thread in front of the needle to
● The needle threader can only be used
make sure that the hook grabs it.
with home sewing machine needles size
While lightly holding the thread, turn the 75/11-100/16. Check the table on page
5 needle threader lever toward the front of the 26 for the appropriate needle and thread
machine (toward you). The hook will pull the combinations. If you are using
thread through the needle. transparent nylon mono-filament thread,
you can only use needles in the range of
90/14-100/16.
● You can not use the needle threader if
you are using decorative threads or
special needles, such as the twin needle
and wing needle.
When using these needles or threads you
will need to thread the needle by hand.
Make sure the main power switch is off
when threading.

23
 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

■ Quick-set Bobbin Threading

Drawing up the Lower Thread This is only available on certain models.
You can begin sewing immediately without
drawing up the bobbin thread. When sewing
1 thread, slowly turn the handwheel toward you
While lightly holding the end of the upper
gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower
(counterclockwise) by hand to lower and then thread by hand so that some thread will be left
raise the needle. over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put
the bobbin back in.

Pass the thread along the slit in the direction

1 of the arrow, and leave it there without
cutting it.

• The bobbin cover should still be removed.

Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower
2 thread.

2 previous steps 1 to 3.
Draw up the lower thread as described in the

3
Replace the bobbin cover.

Sewing with a Twin Needle

We have designed your machine so you can sew
with this needle and two top threads. You can use
the same color or two different colors of thread for
making decorative stitches.
Pull out about 10 cm (4 inch) of both threads
3 and put them toward the back of the machine
CAUTION
under the presser foot.
● Use only twin needles that have been
made for this machine (part code:
X57521-021). Other needles could break
and damage the machine.
● When using the twin needle, make sure
the stitch width is not set above 3 since
this may cause the needle to hit the
needle plate and break.
● Make sure that the needle does not strike
1 Upper thread
the presser foot.
2 Lower thread ● Do not sew with bent needles. The
needle could break and injure you.
● When using the twin needle, make sure
you use the zigzag presser foot only.

24
■ Attaching the Twin Needle
Attach the twin needle in the same way as a Thread Tension
single needle (see page 8). The flat side of the
needle should face toward the back and the The tension of the thread will affect the quality of
rounded side should face toward you. your stitches. You may need to adjust it when you

■ Attaching the Extra Spool Pin

change fabric or thread.
1
Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of
Memo
the machine. Put the second spool of thread onto
● We recommend that you do a test sample
the extra spool pin.
on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.

■ Correct Tension
Correct tension is important as too much or too
little tension will weaken your seams or cause
puckers on your fabric.
2

1
1 Surface of fabric
■ Twin Needle Threading 2 Back of fabric
You should thread each needle separately. 3 3 Upper thread
4 4 Lower thread
Thread the left needle. ■ Upper Tension is too Tight
1 Follow the same instructions for threading a
Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.
single needle (see page 21). 2
Thread the right needle.
2 Thread the right needle in the same way that 5 4 3

1
you threaded the left needle using the thread
1 Surface of fabric
from the spool on the extra spool pin, but do 2 Back of fabric
3 5
not pass the thread through the guide above 3 Upper thread
4
the needle before you pass it through the eye 4 Lower thread
of the right needle. 5 Loops appear on surface of fabric
Solution
Reduce the tension by turning the upper
tension control dial to a lower number.
■ Upper Tension is too Loose
Loops appear on the back of the fabric.
5
2

5 4 3

1
1 Surface of fabric
1 Left needle thread passes through the needle bar 2 Back of fabric
thread guide 3 3 Upper thread
2 Right needle thread passes in front of the needle 4 4 Lower thread
bar thread guide 5 Loops appear on back of fabric
3 Needle bar thread guide
Solution
Increase the tension by turning the upper
Note tension control dial to a higher number.
Models Equipped with a Needle Threader
● You can not use the needle threader to Note
thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the ● If the upper thread is not threaded correctly
twin needle by hand, from front to back. or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it
Using the needle threader may damage the may not be possible to set the correct thread
machine. tension. If the correct thread tension cannot
be achieved, rethread the upper thread and
insert the bobbin correctly.

25
 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————

FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS

Thread
Fabric Type Size of Needle
Type Size
Broadcloth Cotton
Medium Thread synthetic 60–80
weight Taffeta mercerized 75/11–90/14
fabrics
Flannel, Silk or silk
Gabardine finished 50–80

Lawn, Batiste Cotton

Lightweight Thread synthetic 60–80
Georgette mercerized 65/9–75/11
fabrics
Challis, Satin Silk 50–80
Denim Cotton 30–50
Heavyweight Thread synthetic 90/14–100/16
fabrics Corduroy mercerized 50
Tweed Silk
Jersey Ball point needle
Stretch
fabrics
Thread for knits 50–60 (golden colored)
Tricot 75/11–90/14
Thread synthetic
For top stitching mercerized 30 90/14–100/16
Silk

Memo
● For clear nylon thread, always use needle 90/14 - 100/16.
● You can also use the same thread for the bobbin thread and upper threading.

CAUTION
● Make sure you follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table.
Using the wrong combination, such as heavyweight fabric like denim with a small needle
(65/9-75/11), may bend or break the needle. The wrong combination may also cause the seam
to be uneven, the fabric to pucker, or the machine to skip stitches.

26
2 STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG STITCHING

Please Read Before Sewing

CAUTION
● To avoid being injured, watch the needle carefully while you are using the machine. Keep
your hands away from moving parts.
● Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing, otherwise the needle may be damaged and 2
you may be injured.
● Do not use bent or broken needles, otherwise you may be injured.
● Take care that the needle does not hit basting pins or other objects during sewing. The needle
may break and you may be injured.
● Always use the correct presser foot. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may hit the
presser foot and bend or break and you may be injured.
● When you turn the handwheel by hand, always turn it toward you (counterclockwise).
Turning it the other way may cause the thread to tangle and damage the needle or fabric, and
you may be injured.

Put the fabric under the presser foot and

4 position the needle 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the
Straight Stitching
edge of the fabric.
Stitch Stitch
Lower the presser foot.
Stitch Name Pattern Length Width 5
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
To back tack, push down the reverse sewing
6 lever as far as possible, and then press the foot
Straight Stitch 1-4
(1/64-3/16) controller to start reverse sewing. Release the
5-0* foot controller to stop sewing.
Fixed (3/16-0)
Triple Stretch 2.5 (3/32)
7 sewing in the forward direction by pressing
Release the reverse sewing lever and start
Stitch Fixed
2.5 (3/32) the foot controller.
*Turn the stitch width dial to adjust the needle
position. Setting the dial to 5 selects the left
needle position; setting the dial to 0 selects the
right needle position.
■ Starting Sewing

Turn the pattern selection dial to choose the

1 stitch number you want. You also need to set
the pattern selection dial to the Straight Stitch
or Triple Stretch Stitch. • You can use reverse sewing for locking the
end of seams and to strengthen a stitch.
Raise the needle to its highest position and lift
2 the presser foot lever. CAUTION
● Make sure the needle does not hit a pin
Pull the upper thread though the toes of the
3 presser foot. or any other object during sewing. The
thread could tangle or the needle could
break, and you may be injured.

27
 STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG STITCHING ——————————————————————————————————————————

■ Changing Sewing Direction To prepare the machine for the next seam,
4 pull about 10 cm (4 inch) of thread through

1 to change direction with the needle still in the

Stop the machine at the point where you want
the toes of the presser foot toward the back of
the machine.
fabric.
■ Top Stitching and Stretch Materials
Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to its
2 new direction using the needle as a pivot. You can use a straight stitch for top stitching and
sewing lightweight fabrics.
You can use a triple stretch stitch for sewing
stretch fabrics.

Zigzag Stitching

Stitch Stitch
Stitch Name Pattern Length Width
3 new direction.
Lower the presser foot and start sewing in the
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]

■ Finishing Sewing Zigzag Stitch

F-4 0-5
You can use stitching to lock the threads at the (1/64-3/16) (0-3/16)
end of the seam or to strengthen a stitch.
■ Zigzag Stitch
Stitch to the end of the seam and stop.
1
Turn the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag
Stitch, and then start sewing.
2 backwards for 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the end of
Push the reverse sewing lever and stitch

the fabric.

We recommend that you sew using the Straight

■ Removing the Material from the Machine Stitch at the beginning and end of zigzag stitches.
(This acts as a reinforcement stitch.)
1
Stop the machine.
Raise the needle to its highest position and
make sure that the thread take-up lever is also
in its highest position.
Lift the presser foot, raise the needle to its
2 highest position, and then pull the fabric out
gently to the left hand side.
• Raise the needle to its highest position and
make sure that the thread take-up lever is
also in its highest position. ■ Satin Stitch
Setting the Zigzag Stitch length in the “F” range
3 left hand side of the machine
Cut both threads with the thread cutter on the
produces a satin stitch (close zigzag stitch). The
. Satin Stitch can be used for making buttonholes
and decorative stitches. Set the pattern selection
dial to the Zigzag Stitch, set the stitch length in
the “F” range, and set the stitch width dial
between 0 and 5.

1 Thread cutter

28
3 BUILT-IN STITCHES

When the fabric is unfolded you will have a

5 Blind Hem Stitch as shown in Fig. D.
Blind Hem Stitching
2 3 1
Stitch Stitch
Stitch Name Pattern Length Width A B
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
1 2
Blind Hem F-2 3-5
Stitch (1/64-1/16) (1/8-3/16)

Stretch Blind F-1.5 3-5 4

Hem Stitch (1/64-1/16) (1/8-3/16) 1 2
C D
Stretch Blind
Hem Stitch
F-1.5
(1/64-1/16)
3-5
(1/8-3/16)
3
2 1
You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge
of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers,
1 Right side of fabric
without the stitch showing. Use the Blind Hem Stitch
2 Wrong side of fabric
when sewing on non-stretch fabrics, and the Stretch 3 10 mm (3/8 inch)
Blind Hem Stitch for stretch fabrics. 4 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Both threads should be the same color as the

1 fabric. Note
● The Stretch Blind Hem Stitch is useful for
stretch fabrics.
2 fold the edge of the fabric as in Fig. B. Leave a
Fold back the hem, as shown in Fig. A. Then

6 mm (15/64 inch) overlap at the edge.

Shell Tuck Stitching
Set the pattern selection dial to the Blind Hem
3 Stitch or Stretch Blind Hem Stitch, and then
set the stitch length. Stitch Stitch
Stitch Name Pattern Length Width
Sew on the fold as in Fig. C. [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
4
Shell Tuck F-3 3-5
Stitch (1/64-1/8) (1/8-3/16)

The Shell Tuck Stitch can be used to sew a picot

(lace-like) edge on lightweight fabric.

Set the pattern selection dial to the Shell Tuck

1 Stitch.

Adjust the thread tension so that it is tighter

2 than normal.

Place the fabric under the presser foot so that

3 it will be sewn along the bias, with the straight
stitches sewn on the seamline and the zigzag
stitches sewn slightly over the folded edge.

29
 BUILT-IN STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

Sew at a slow speed. ■ Sewing Elastic

4

1
Place the elastic on the fabric.

As you sew, stretch the elastic in front of and

2 behind the presser foot.

Elastic Stitching

Stitch Stitch
Stitch Name Pattern Length Width
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] ■ Joining Fabric
You can use the Elastic Stitch to join two pieces of
Elastic Stitch F-2.5 3-5 fabric together and it is very effective when
(1/64-3/32) (1/8-3/16)
sewing knitted fabrics. If you are using nylon
thread, the stitch will not be visible.
You can use the Elastic Stitch for mending, sewing
elastic or joining fabric. Each is explained below. Put the edge of the two pieces of fabric
Set the pattern selection dial to the Elastic Stitch. 1 together and center them under the presser
■ Mending foot.

Sew them together using the Elastic Stitch.

1 2 Make sure you keep the two fabric edges close
Set the stitch length dial between “F” and 2.5.

Place the reinforcement fabric under the area together.

2 you want to mend.

Following the line of the tear, sew using the

3 Elastic Stitch as shown.

30
 Set the pattern selection dial to the Smocking
2 Stitch, Fagoting Stitch, or Decorative Stitch.
Double Action Stitching
Stitch along the edge, pulling both threads
Stitch Stitch 3 slightly when beginning to sew.
Stitch Name Pattern Length Width Use thicker than normal threads for sewing.
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
After sewing, remove the basting and the
4 paper. Finish by tying knots on the reverse
Double Action F-3 3-5
Stitch (1/64-1/8) (1/8-3/16) side at the beginning and the end of the
seams.
F-3 3-5
Bridging Stitch (1/64-1/8) (1/8-3/16)

F-3 3-5
Rampart Stitch (1/64-1/8) (1/8-3/16)
1

These stitches are used for joining two pieces of

fabric, such as when making patchwork. Set the
1.5 mm
3
pattern selection dial to the Double Action Stitch,
Bridging Stitch, or Rampart Stitch.
1 First needle drop

Overedge Stitching

Stitch Stitch
Stitch Name Pattern Length Width
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]

Elastic Shell F-3 3-5

Tuck Stitch (1/64-1/8) (1/8-3/16)

Fixed
Stretch 2.5 (3/32) 3-5
Overlock (1/8-3/16)
Stitch Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
Heirloom Stitching Fixed
Elastic 2.5 (3/32)
Overlock 3-5
Stitch Fixed (1/8-3/16)
Stitch Stitch
Stitch Name Pattern Length Width 2.5 (3/32)
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Fixed
Arrowhead 2.5 (3/32) 3-5
Smocking Fixed 3-5 Stitch Fixed (1/8-3/16)
Stitch 2.5 (3/32) (1/8-13/64) 2.5 (3/32)
Fixed
Fagoting Fixed 3-5 Arrowhead 2.5 (3/32) 3-5
Stitch 2.5 (3/32) (1/8-13/64) Stitch (1/8-3/16)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
Decorative Fixed 3-5
Stitch 2.5 (3/32) (1/8-3/16) Fixed 3-5
Comb Stitch (1/8-3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
These stitches are used to join two pieces of fabric
while leaving a space between their edges. Fixed 3-5
Comb Stitch (1/8-3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
Fold over the edges of the two pieces of fabric
1 for the hem and baste the edges to a thin
piece of paper leaving a small space between
them.

31
 BUILT-IN STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————

You can use these stitches to join together seams and

finish them in one operation. The Overlock Stitches Feather Stitching
are also useful for sewing stretch materials while the
Arrowhead Stitch is ideal for sewing the edge of a Stitch Stitch
blanket. Stitch Name Pattern Length Width
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
Set the pattern selection dial to an overedge
1 stitch. Fixed
2.5 (3/32) 3-5
Feather Stitch (1/8-3/16)
Put the fabric under the presser foot so that Fixed
2 the seamline (or arrowhead point) is 2.5 (3/32)
approximately 3 mm (1/8 inch) to the left of Use the Feather Stitch as a decorative top stitch
the center of the presser foot. This stitch when embroidering or when hemming blankets,
works best with a seam allowance of tablecloths, or draperies.
approximately 5 mm (3/16 inch) as this allows
Set the pattern selection dial to the Feather
1 Stitch.
the right (zigzag) side of the stitch to overlock
the cut edge of the fabric.
Place the fabric right side up and sew 1 cm
2 (3/8 inch) from the edge of the fabric.

Trim close to the stitching.

3 The stitch will prevent the fabric from unravelling.

3 pattern, trim away any excess fabric after

If the seam allowance is wider than the stitch

stitching.

A finished Elastic Overlock Stitch is shown in the Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitching
illustration below.
Stitch Stitch
Stitch Name Pattern Length Width
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
Fixed
Triple Zigzag 2.5 (3/32) 3-5
Stretch Stitch Fixed (1/8-3/16)
2.5 (3/32)

This stitch can be used wherever a zigzag stitch

would be used to sew heavyweight stretch fabrics.
The Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitch can also be used as a
decorative top stitch. Set the pattern selection dial to
the Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitch.

32
 Decorative Stitching

Stitch Stitch
Stitch Name Pattern Length Width
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]

Triangle Stitch F-1.5 3-5

(1/64-1/16) (1/8-3/16)

Fixed
Decorative 2.5 (3/32) 3-5
Stitch Fixed (1/8-3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32) 3-5
Leaf Stitch
Fixed (1/8-3/16)
2.5 (3/32) 3
Fixed
2.5 (3/32) 3-5
Tree Stitch (1/8-3/16)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32) 3-5
Legs Stitch
Fixed (1/8-3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
Fixed
Decorative 2.5 (3/32) 3-5
Stitch Fixed (1/8-3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
Stretch
Overlock Fixed 3-5
Stitch 2.5 (3/32) (1/8-13/64)

Stretch 3-5
Overlock Fixed
2.5 (3/32) (1/8-13/64)
Stitch

Decorative Fixed 3-5

Stitch 2.5 (3/32) (1/8-3/16)

Decorative Fixed 3-5

Hem Stitch 2.5 (3/32) (1/8-3/16)

Decorative Fixed 3-5

Stitch 2.5 (3/32) (1/8-3/16)

These stitches can be used for decorative top

stitching and for smocking. Set the pattern selection
dial to the Triangle Stitch, Leaf Stitch, etc.

33
 SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS ———————————————————————————————————————

4 SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS

Open the button plate and insert the button.

4
Making a Buttonhole
(1-Step Automatic Buttonhole)

Stitch Stitch
Pattern Length Width Foot
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]

F-1.5 3-5 Buttonhole

(1/64-1/16) (1/8-3/16) Foot

1 Starting mark on the fabric

2 Marks on the foot
Memo 3 Button plate
● We recommend that you practice making a
5 slightly.
Lower the buttonhole lever and push it back
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric before
you try it on an actual garment.
● When making buttonholes on soft fabrics,
place a stabilizer material on the underside
of the fabric.

Making a buttonhole is a simple process that

provides reliable results.
■ Making a Buttonhole

Using tailor’s chalk, mark the position and

1 length of the buttonhole on the fabric.

6 the machine.
While gently holding the upper thread, start
1

7 the order shown.

The bar tacks of the buttonhole are sewn in

1 Marks on fabric

2 selection dial to “F”.

Attach the buttonhole foot and set the pattern 2 4

3 the presser foot to align the marks on the foot

You need to sew the front bar tack first. Lower
1
with the mark on the fabric.

8 finished.
Stop the machine when buttonhole stitching is

34
■ Making a Buttonhole on Stretch Fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabric, the Adjusting Buttonholes
buttonhole stitching is sewn over a gimp thread.
If the stitching on the two sides of the buttonhole is
Using tailor’s chalk, mark the position of the not the same, you can make the following
1 buttonhole on the fabric, and then attach the adjustments.
buttonhole foot and set the pattern selection
1 and sew the buttonhole on a scrap piece of
dial to “F”. Set the stitch length dial between "F" and 1.5

fabric to observe how the material is fed.

1
If the right side of the buttonhole is too open
2 or tight, adjust the feeding of the material
with the stitch length dial.
1

1 Marks on fabric

2 the buttonhole foot, bring the two gimp

Hook the gimp thread onto the back end of

thread ends to the front of the foot, insert

them into the grooves, and then temporarily
tie them there.
4
3 the gimp thread.
Set the stitch width to match the diameter of
2 3

4
Lower the presser foot and start sewing.

Once sewing is completed, gently pull the

5 gimp thread to remove any slack, and then
trim off the excess.

1 Right side
2 Shorter
3 Longer

After obtaining a satisfactory feed on the right

3 side, stitch the buttonhole and observe the
feeding.

35
 SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS ———————————————————————————————————————

If the left side is too open or tight compared Place the darning plate on the needle plate.
4 with the right side, adjust the buttonhole fine- 4
adjustment screw as described below.
If the left side is too open, turn the buttonhole
fine-adjustment screw with a large screwdriver
in the – direction.
If the left side is too tight, turn the buttonhole
fine-adjustment screw with a large screwdriver
in the + direction.
• This adjustment ensures both sides of the
buttonhole are the same.

Turn on the machine.

5
2

1
6 and make sure that the needle enters the holes
Put a button between the foot and the fabric
3
without hitting the button. If it hits, see step 1.

4 4

At a slow speed, sew about 10 stitches.

7

1 Stitch length dial

2 Buttonhole fine-adjustment screw
3 Left side
4 Buttonhole appearance

Sewing Buttons

8 the upper and lower threads and tie both

Remove the material from the machine. Cut
Stitch Stitch
Stitch
Name Pattern Length Width Foot Other threads at the back of the material.
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
Button
Zigzag F Any Sewing Darning
Stitch (1/64) Foot Plate

Measure the distance between the

1 buttonholes and mark the fabric. Then set the
pattern selection dial to the Zigzag Stitch, and
set the width you want.
CAUTION
2
Turn off the machine.
● Make sure the needle does not hit the
Change the foot to the button sewing foot. button during sewing. The needle may
3 break and you may be injured.

36
5 USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS

Fold the edge of the material 2 cm (3/4 inch)

4 and place the zipper under the folded section.
Zipper Insertion
Lower the needle into the notch located either
Stitch Stitch on the left or right side of the zipper foot.
Stitch
Pattern Length Width Foot
Name
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] CAUTION
2.5
Straight 2-3 Zipper
Stitch (1/16-1/8)
(center)
Foot ● Turn the handwheel by hand to make
(3/32) sure the needle does not hit the zipper
You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of foot before you start sewing. Choosing a
zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left different stitch will cause the needle to
side of the needle. hit the presser foot and break, and you
When sewing the right side of the zipper, attach the may be injured.
shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. When sewing
the left side of the zipper, attach the shank to the
5 top on both sides. The needle should be
Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the
right pin of the zipper foot.
positioned on the zipper side of the foot for
1 2 best results.

3
5
1 Zipper foot
2 Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper
3 Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper

1 foot.
Turn off the machine and raise the presser

To sew the opposite side of the zipper, first

2 Stitch. Set the stitch length between 2 6 turn the machine off and raise the presser foot
Set the pattern selection dial to the Straight

(1/16 inch) and 3 (1/8 inch). Set the stitch lever. Release the zipper foot by pressing the
width at 2.5 (3/32 inch) to move the needle button located at the back of the foot, then fit
into the correct position. the foot on the other side of the zipper.
Continue sewing using the pin on that side of
the zipper foot.
3 foot lever either on the left or right pin of the
To attach the zipper foot, lower the presser

zipper foot.
CAUTION
● Make sure the needle does not hit the
zipper during sewing. If the needle hits
the zipper, the needle may break and you
may be injured.

37
 USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS ——————————————————————————————————————

Gathering Darning

Stitch Stitch
Stitch
Stitch Name Pattern Length Name Pattern Length Foot Other
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
Zigzag
Straight Stitch 4 (3/16) Straight Any Presser Darning
Stitch Foot Plate

1 Stitch. 1 Place the darning plate on the needle plate,

Set the pattern selection dial to Straight Turn off the machine.

then turn on the machine.

2 the lower thread lies on the underside of the

Loosen the tension of the upper thread so that

material.

Sew a single row (or many rows) of straight

3 stitches.

Pull the lower threads to gather the material.

4

2 Stitch.
Set the pattern selection dial to the Straight

3 presser foot together with fabric for

Put the section you want to darn under the

reinforcement.

Lower the presser foot.

4

5 drawing the work away from you and pulling

Begin sewing by alternating between gently

it toward you.

Repeat this motion until the darn section is

6 filled with parallel lines of stitching.

38
 Appliqués Monogramming and
Embroidering
Stitch Length Stitch Width
Stitch Name Pattern
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Stitch Stitch
F-2 Stitch Length Width
Zigzag Stitch Any Name Pattern Foot Other
(1/64-1/16) [mm [mm
(inch)] (inch)]
You can create an applique by cutting a different Zigzag Darning
piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a Stitch Any Any None Plate
decoration.
■ Preparing for Monogramming and Embroidering
Baste the cut design to the fabric.
1
1 Place the darning plate on the needle plate,
Turn off the machine.
Carefully sew around the edge of the design
2 with a zigzag stitch.
then turn on the machine.

Set the pattern selection dial to Zigzag Stitch.

2
Cut away any fabric that is left outside the 5
3 stitching.
Draw the lettering (for monogramming) or
3 design (for embroidering) on the surface of
the fabric.

Stretch the fabric between embroidery hoops

4 as firmly as possible, with the underside of the
fabric on the bottom of the inside hoop.

5 presser bar with the foot removed.

Put the work under the needle and lower the

6 position by turning the handwheel and make a

Pull the lower thread up through the starting

4
Remove the basting, if necessary.
few holding stitches.

Memo
● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the
beginning and the end of the zigzag
stitching.

CAUTION
● Be careful that the needle does not hit a
pin during sewing. The needle could
break, and you may be injured.

39
 USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS ——————————————————————————————————————

Grip the hoop with your thumbs and ■ Embroidering

7 forefingers while pressing the fabric with your

1 embroidery hoop.
middle and third fingers and supporting the Stitch the outline of the design by moving the
outside of the hoop with your little fingers.

Fill in the design alternating from the outline

2 of the design to the inside and from the inside
CAUTION
to the edge of the outline until the design is
● Keep fingers away from moving parts, completely filled in. Keep the stitching close
especially needles. together.

■ Monogramming

Sew by moving the hoop slowly along the

1 lettering at a constant speed.

Secure with a few straight stitches at the end

2 of the last letter.

Memo
● You can make long stitches by moving the
embroidery hoop rapidly and short stitches
by moving it slowly.

Secure with a few straight stitches at the end

3 of the design.

CAUTION
● Keep fingers away from moving parts,
especially needles.

CAUTION
● Keep fingers away from moving parts,
especially needles.

40
 OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

Attach the forked section of the connecting

4 lever to the needle clamp, and fit the walking
Using the Walking Foot
foot to the presser bar.
Stitch Stitch
Stitch Name Pattern Length Width 1
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]

Straight Stitch 1-4 2-3

(1/16-3/16) (1/16-1/8)

Zigzag Stitch 1-4 0-5

(1/16-3/16) (0-3/16) 2

This foot is very useful for sewing materials such as

vinyl cloth, synthetic leather, thin leather, etc. These
materials are difficult to feed when sewing. The 3
walking foot prevents these materials from
crumpling, slipping or sticking between the presser
foot and the material.

Note
● Only use the walking foot with straight or
zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns.
Reverse stitches can not be sewn with the 1 Forked part of operation lever
walking foot. 2 Presser bar holder
3 Needle clamp
5
Lower the presser foot lever and then tighten
Turn off the machine. 5 the presser foot screw.
1
Raise the needle and the presser foot.
2

3 presser foot holder.

Loosen the presser foot screw to remove the

3 1
1 Presser foot screw
1
1 Use a coin or screwdriver
2 Presser foot holder
3 Presser foot screw

41
 USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS ——————————————————————————————————————

Attach the quilting foot, making sure that part

4 A shown in the illustration is above the
CAUTION needle clamp screw. Then lower the presser
● Use a coin or screwdriver to tighten the foot lever and tighten the presser foot screw.
• Make sure that the needle clamp screw is
screw securely. If the screw is loose, the
firmly tightened.
needle may hit the presser foot and you
may be injured.
● Before you start sewing, make sure you A
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) to check that the
needle does not hit the presser foot. 1 2
● Be careful not to touch the needle,
otherwise you may be injured.

Note
● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at 1 Presser foot screw
medium to low speeds. 2 Needle clamp screw

CAUTION
Using the Quilting Foot ● Be careful not to touch the needle,
otherwise you may be injured.
Stitch Stitch ● Use a coin or screwdriver to tighten the
Stitch Pattern Length Width Other
Name presser foot holder screw securely. If the
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
screw is loose, the needle may hit the
Straight 2.5 Darning presser foot and you may be injured.
Stitch Any (3/32) Plate ● Before you start sewing, make sure you
turn the handwheel toward you
The Quilting Foot is useful for darning and (counterclockwise) to check that the
free-motion machine quilting. needle does not hit the presser foot.
Turn off the machine.
1 Put the darning plate on the needle plate.
5 Turn on the machine.
2
Raise the needle and the presser foot.

Loosen the presser foot screw to remove the

3 presser foot holder.

3
6 Stitch.
Set the pattern selection dial to the Straight
1
1 Use a coin or screwdriver • Before starting to sew, draw the quilting
2 Presser foot holder design on the fabric.
3 Presser foot screw

42
 Use both hands to keep the fabric firmly Attach the 1/4-inch Quilting Foot.
7 stretched and move the fabric to sew over the 3 Turn on the machine.
drawn design.
Position the presser foot over the fabric and
4 sew as shown in the illustration below.

■ Achieving an Accurate Seam Allowance

1
2
1

1 Quilting design

The length of the stitch depends on how

8 quickly you move the fabric and on the 3
machine’s sewing speed. Sew while moving
the fabric slowly.
4

Using the 1/4-inch 1 Beginning of stitching

Quilting Foot 2 Align this mark with the edge of the fabric.
3 End of stitching
4 Align this mark with the edge of the fabric.
Stitch Stitch ■ Stitching the Top of a Quilt
Stitch Name Pattern Length Width
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]

Straight Stitch
2-2.5 2.5 (center)
1 5
(1/16-3/32) (3/32)

You can use the 1/4-inch Quilting Foot to sew seams

when piecing together a quilt. 2

1 Top of fabric
2 Seam 3.2 mm (1/8 inch)

1 Seam allowance 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

Turn off the machine.

1
Set the pattern selection dial to the Straight
2 Stitch. Set the stitch length between 2
(1/16 inch) and 2.5 (3/32 inch). Set the stitch
width at 2.5 (3/32 inch) (center).

43
 APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————

6 APPENDIX

MAINTENANCE

4
Put the light cover back on and fasten the screw.
Changing the Light Bulb

CAUTION
● Turn off the main power switch and
unplug the machine before you change
the light bulb. If the main power switch is
on when you change the light bulb, you
may get an electric shock. If the machine
is on and you step on the foot controller,
Cleaning
you may be injured.
● To avoid burns, let the light bulb cool
down before you change it. CAUTION
● Make sure you unplug the machine
Remove the power supply plug from the
1 outlet. before you clean it, otherwise you risk
getting an electric shock or being injured.
Loosen the screw on the back of the sewing
2 head. Then remove the light cover from the
1
Switch the machine off and unplug it.
machine.
Raise the needle and the presser foot.
2
Loosen the presser foot screw and the needle
3 clamp screw to remove the presser foot
holder and the needle.

3
Replace the sewing light bulb.

4 and then slide it toward you to remove the

Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover,
1
needle plate cover.
2

1 Bulb
2 Loosen
3 Tighten 1
1 Needle plate cover

44
 Using a coin, remove the two screws. Insert the bobbin case so that the projection
5 Lift up the needle plate as shown in the 8 on the bobbin case aligns with the spring.
illustration, and then slide the needle plate to
the left to remove it.

1 Use a coin or screwdriver

1 Projection
Grasp the bobbin case, and then lift it out to
6 the left.
2 Spring

Install the needle plate, sliding it to the right

9 to secure it, and then tighten the screws.
Make sure that the tab on the left side of the
needle plate is aligned with the notch in the
bobbin case.

Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to

7 remove any dust from the race and its
surrounding area.
1 Tab 6
2 Notch
3 Screws

Install the needle plate cover.

0 Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into
the notches in the needle plate, and then slide
the cover back into position.

CAUTION
● Never use a bobbin case that is
1 Cleaning brush scratched; otherwise the upper thread
2 Race
may become tangled, the needle may
• Do not apply oil to the bobbin case. break, or sewing performance may
suffer. For a new bobbin case (part code:
XC8993-021), contact your nearest
authorized service center.
● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case
properly, otherwise the needle may
break.

45
 APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Troubleshooting
If the machine stops working properly, check the following possible problems.
If the problem is still there, contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center.

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference

The machine is not plugged in. Plug the machine in. page 7
The main power switch is turned off. Turn on the main power switch. page 8
The sewing
machine does The bobbin-winder shaft is pushed Move the bobbin-winder shaft to the page 17
not work. to the right. left.
You have not used the foot control- Use the foot controller properly. page 8
ler properly.
The needle is not fitted properly. Fit the needle properly. page 8

The needle clamp screw is loose. Use a coin or screwdriver to firmly page 9
tighten the screw.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 8
You have not used the right combi- Choose a thread and needle that are page 26
nation of fabric, thread and needle. appropriate for the type of fabric.
The presser foot you are using is not Attach the presser foot that is correct
appropriate for the type of stitch that for the type of stitch that you want to –
you want to sew. sew.
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 25
You are pulling the fabric too much. Lightly guide the fabric. –
The needle
breaks. You have not fitted the spool properly. Fit the spool properly. page 21, 25

The area around the hole in the nee- Replace the needle plate.
dle plate is scratched. Contact your retailer or the nearest –
authorized service center.

The area around the hole in the Replace the presser foot.
presser foot is scratched.
Contact your retailer or the nearest –
authorized service center.
Replace the bobbin case.
The bobbin case is scratched. Contact your retailer or the nearest –
authorized service center.

You have not used a bobbin that has Incorrect bobbins will not work
been designed for this machine. properly. Only use a bobbin that has page 16
been designed for this machine.
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly. (For example, you
have not fitted the spool properly, or Correct the upper threading. page 21
the thread has come out of the guide
above the needle.)
There are knots or tangles in the
thread.
Remove any knots or tangles. –
The needle is not appropriate for the Choose a needle that is appropriate page 26
The upper thread you are using. for the type of stitch.
thread breaks.
The upper-thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 25
Remove the tangled thread. If the
The thread is tangled. thread is tangled in the bobbin case, page 44
clean the bobbin case.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 8
You have not inserted the needle Insert the needle properly. page 9
properly.

46
 Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference

The area around the hole in the nee- Replace the needle plate.
dle plate is scratched. Contact your retailer or the nearest –
authorized service center.

The area around the hole in the Replace the presser foot.
presser foot is scratched.
Contact your retailer or the nearest –
The upper authorized service center.
thread breaks. Replace the bobbin case.
The bobbin case is scratched, or has
a burr on it. Contact your retailer or the nearest –
authorized service center.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
You have not used a bobbin that has properly. Only use a bobbin that has page 16
been designed for this machine.
been designed for this machine.
You have not wound the bobbin
thread properly. Wind the bobbin properly. page 16

The bobbin is scratched or does not

turn smoothly. Replace the bobbin. –
The lower Remove the tangled thread and
thread is tangled The thread is tangled. clean the bobbin case. page 44
or breaks.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine. properly. Only use a bobbin that has page 16
been designed for this machine.
Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 18-20
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly. Correct the upper threading. page 21

You have not wound the bobbin

thread properly. Wind the bobbin thread properly. page 16

You have not threaded the right

Choose a thread and needle that are
combination of thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric. page 26
for the fabric you are using.
The thread ten-
sion is incorrect. You have not attached the presser Attach the presser foot holder prop-
–
foot holder properly. erly.

The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper

thread.
page 25 6
Incorrect bobbins will not work
You have not used a bobbin that has properly. Only use a bobbin that has page 16
been designed for this machine.
been designed for this machine.
Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 18-20
You have not threaded the upper Thread the upper thread and wind
thread properly or fitted the bobbin the bobbin thread properly. page 18-22
properly.
You have not fitted the spool prop- Fit the spool properly. page 21, 25
erly.
You have not used the right Choose a thread and needle that are
The fabric is combination of fabric, thread and page 26
wrinkled. appropriate for the type of fabric.
needle.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 8
If you are sewing thin fabric, the Sew with stabiliser material under
stitch is too thick. the fabric. –

The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper page 25
thread.

47
 APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference

You have not threaded the upper Correct the upper threading. page 21
thread properly.
You have not used the right combi- Choose a thread and needle that are page 26
nation of fabric, thread and needle. appropriate for the type of fabric.
Stitches are
skipped. The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 8
You have not inserted the needle Insert the needle properly. page 8
properly.
Dust has accumulated under the Remove the needle plate cover and page 44
needle plate or in the bobbin case. clean the plate and the bobbin case.
Dust has built up in the feed dogs or Clean the bobbin case. page 44
in the bobbin case.
You have not threaded the upper Correct the upper threading. page 21
thread properly.
There is a high-
pitched noise Replace the bobbin case.
while sewing. The bobbin case is scratched. Contact your retailer or the nearest –
authorized service center.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
You have not used a bobbin that has properly. Only use a bobbin that has page 16
been designed for this machine.
been designed for this machine.
Turn the handwheel toward you
You have not moved the needle (counterclockwise) to raise the nee- page 22
The needle holder to its highest position.
threader can not dle holder to the highest position.
be used. You have not inserted the needle Insert the needle properly. page 9
properly.

The presser foot that you are using is Attach the presser foot that is correct
not correct for the type of stitch. for the type of stitch that you want to –
sew.
The stitch is not The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper page 25
sewn correctly. thread.
Remove the tangled thread. If the
The thread is tangled. thread is tangled in the bobbin case, page 44
clean the bobbin case.
The stitch is too fine. Lengthen the stitch length. –
The darning plate is fitted on the
needle plate.
Remove the darning plate. –
The fabric does You have not used the right combi- Choose a thread and needle that are
not feed. page 26
nation of fabric, thread and needle. appropriate for the type of fabric.
Remove the tangled thread. If the
The thread is tangled. thread is tangled in the bobbin case, page 44
clean the bobbin case.
The sewing light
bulb does not The sewing light bulb is damaged. Replace the sewing light bulb. page 44
come on.

48
 INDEX

Numerics N
1/4-inch quilting foot ....................................................43 Needle
1-Step Automatic Buttonhole ................................... 5, 34 checking .................................................................... 8
combinations with fabric and thread .......................... 26
A replacing ................................................................... 8
Needle threader ............................................................ 22
Accessories .....................................................................6
optional .............................................................. 6, 41 O
Appliqués .....................................................................39
Overedge stitching ........................................................ 31
B
P
Blind hem stitching .......................................................29
Bobbin Pattern selection dial ..................................................... 11
winding ...................................................................16 Patterns .........................................................................12
Buttonhole Presser foot
adjusting ..................................................................35 changing ................................................................... 9
making ....................................................................34 Q
Buttonhole fine-adjustment screw .................................36
Buttons Quick-set bobbin ................................................... 19, 24
sewing .....................................................................36 Quilting foot ................................................................. 42
C R
Cleaning .......................................................................44 Race
Connecting plugs ............................................................7 cleaning .................................................................. 44
D Repacking instructions .................................................... 2
Reverse sewing lever ..................................................... 15
Darning ........................................................................38
S
Darning plate ............................................36, 38, 39, 42
Decorative stitching ......................................................33 Satin stitch .................................................................... 28
Double action stitching .................................................31 Shell tuck stitching ........................................................ 29
Drawing up the lower thread ........................................24 Spool pin ............................................................... 16, 21
extra ........................................................................ 25
E Stitch length dial ........................................................... 14
Elastic stitching .............................................................30 Stitch width dial ............................................................ 15
Embroidering ................................................................39 Stitches
built-in .................................................................... 29
F names ..................................................................... 12
Straight stitching ........................................................... 27
Fabric, thread, and needle combinations ......................26
Stretch stitching ............................................................ 15
Feather stitching ............................................................32
Flat bed attachment ......................................................10 T
Foot controller ................................................................8
Thread cutter ................................................................ 28
Free-arm style ...............................................................10
Thread tension .............................................................. 25
G Threading
lower ............................................................... 18, 19
Gathering ......................................................................38 needle threader ........................................................ 22
H twin needle .............................................................. 25
upper ...................................................................... 21
Handwheel ...................................................................21 Triple zigzag stretch stitching ........................................ 32
Heirloom stitching ........................................................31 Troubleshooting ............................................................ 46
Twin needle
L attaching ............................................................ 9, 25
sewing ..................................................................... 24
Light bulb
changing .................................................................44 U
Light switch ....................................................................8
Lower threading ............................................................18 Unpacking instructions ................................................... 2
quick-set bobbin ............................................... 19, 24 Upper tension control dial ............................................ 25
Upper threading ............................................................ 21
M
W
Main parts .......................................................................5
Main power ....................................................................8 Walking foot ................................................................. 41
Maintenance .................................................................44 Z
Monogramming ............................................................39
Zigzag stitching ............................................................. 28
Zipper insertion ............................................................ 37

49
XL_brother_cover_Eng

1 KNOWING YOUR
SEWING MACHINE

2 STRAIGHT AND
ZIGZAG STITCHING

3 BUILT-IN STITCHES

4 SEWING BUTTONHOLES
AND BUTTONS

5 USING ATTACHMENTS
AND APPLICATIONS

6 APPENDIX

ENGLISH
885- S28/S29
Operation Manual
XD1931- 021
Printed in China