S TOP Y OUR P ANTS F ITTING N IGHTMARE

W HY C AN ’T I HAVE THAT O NE P AIR OF D REAM P ANTS

H OW TO R EAD THE W RINKLES?

P ANTS
by Claire Kennedy

A concise guide to fitting pants with the whys and wherefores if you want.

Page -1-
Preface:

OK - I hate prefaces, I want to get to the meat of the info, so here it is. This is a book to help you
fit pants yourself. This is information I’ve gleaned over 30 years of sewing for so many client
shapes, sizes and styles I can hardly describe them all.

And what did I learn after doing all those shapes, sizes and styles? That everyone can look nice in
a pair of pants.

The next thing I need to tell you here is that there’s a bunch of prep info. I hate that too, but the
reason it’s here is cause you need to know it before you start the fitting process. Why? Cause it’s
going to help you answer the questions I’m going to ask you while you’re fitting your pants, and
believe me. I’m going to be asking lots of questions, so get ready for them.

Enjoy,
Claire

Page -2-
Chapter One:

How do you start?

Believe it or not, I’ve been where you are.

You’ve sewn up countless pants patterns with the same problems. Or maybe a couple that had some
additional problems.

You worked logically through fixing the problems, but others appeared, or else the old ones came
back with more problems.

But you’re determined this time, and again it’s the same problem - the pants just don’t fit. You put
the pants on and look in the mirror and that same wrinkle(s) appear, but this time you’re going to
figure out what it is and get it right - after all people can do it. So you get rid of some wrinkles and
you put the pants back on...some parts are right, but now you have a new set of wrinkles. That
obviously means that what you did wasn’t right.

That’s the logical conclusion.

We sewists are natural fixers, and that’s one of the most wonderful part about what we do, but pants.
It’s like some horrible math problem that defies solution.

Well, to make you feel better, they are sort of a funny thing to fit. But before I tell you my easy,
fool-proof way of fitting, let me tell you a little about what you’re going to learn.

First, let’s look at what all you have to fit:

Page -3-
 1. Waist (OK pants aren’t at the waist
right now, but don’t worry, they’ll be
back, and then they’ll be low rise
again too!)
2. Lower waist (or above the stomach)
3. Stomach (the largest poochiest part
of your front)
4. Fanny (even though it’s behind you,
it has to be fitted)
5. Hips (and that includes those
saddlebags)
6. Upper thighs (right below the hips
but on the leg - the upper most part of
the leg)
7. Length
8. Crotch Line (the curve, direction and
shape from center front to center
back)

Plus, remember you also want them to hang straight (not tilt front/back or side to side), and not show
off the “funny” parts of your body.

Yikes, no wonder this is like solving world peace. And hopefully this will make you feel better
about needing some professional help.

So let’s get to it.

Let’s start with some basics you’ll need when you start fitting.

What’s a good fitting pair of pants?

You may think that’s a duh! question, but the truth it, think about this. Taking into consideration
how many parts of a pant you have to fit (see the list above), it’s no wonder that ready-to-wear (RTW
in the industry), can’t fit people. Heck, they can barely fit people in the simplest of shell dresses,

Page -4-
how are they possibly going to fit all these folks with all these different variables?

Then, you begin to think, not only can they not do this, that more than likely most of the list above
isn’t fitted at all. As a matter of fact the chances of one of them fitting is very slim.

This isn’t a plot to frustrate the typical sewists (although sometimes it may feel that way). This is
simply for economics. This is part of doing business in the world today. It is much cheaper, easier
and cost-effective to fit an emaciated, starving model who eats two rice cakes a week and smokes
more cigarettes than a Hong Kong sailor! She only has bones and skin to fit, rather than a healthy
woman who has bones, skin, fat and muscle to fit. If these models were in good physical condition,
they would have muscle on them the way they inherited from their parents. For a designer it’s bad
enough to deal with the genetically determined bones and skin, and now to add in another variable,
muscles - it’s just too much. Then you add fat, and that’s not really twice as much, it’s just another
aspect that has an infinite number of variables depending upon the genetics of the model.

So designers have elected just not to use models who have any fat or muscle on them. I say this
cause I do not want anyone to believe that unless you are the size of a post-apocalyptic waif, that you
are the incorrect size...you are the size you are, and that is determined by your genetics as well as
your diet, environment and lifestyle.

One of the things you’re going to discover is how you want your pants to fit. No, not another
“duh” moment, but since you’ve most likely never had a pair of pants where everything fits, this will
be your first pair. It will be a little scary cause there are going to be so many choices, that it will be
a bit unnerving.

Page -5-
 In my past I worked as an Education Director of a local art museum. The
museum entry was arranged in a very “artistically” aesthetically manner,
being very open with only a few pieces to showcase those pieces of art.
When the kids arrived for their tour through the museum, they would
immediately spread out to fill the space, and we would immediately have to
corral them to take them on the tour. The kids weren’t being unruly, they
actually were responding typically. They were filling the space so that there
wouldn’t be an empty space. Think of your choices in the same way. All
these years you’ve been allowed only one or two choices when it comes to
pants (waist size, length), now suddenly you’re going to have inseam
heigh, crotch depth, thigh width, hip width, pitch, length, low-rise, high-rise,
boot cut. Don’t let this intimidate you. Enjoy it and work through each one
at a time.

What position to fit in

I know this sounds simple-minded, but you will be in lots of positions testing the fit of your pant,
but remember the position of “rest” for the pant will be the standing position. When you fit your
skirts, jackets, coats, etc., you are standing, even though you might be wearing it at a movie, where
you would be sitting most of the time, the typical position for fitting is standing.

Now your pants have to be able to move when you stoop, sit, bend over, sit and maybe some other
positions, but they should fall and fit perfectly when you stand.

Good Wrinkles vs Bad Wrinkles

Just like people, there are good and bad wrinkles. Along the way I’m going to show you what those
are. This helps you not get so confused about what you’re fitting, and when you’re looking at
yourself in the mirror and see the good wrinkles, you’ll know why they’re there and not have to
worry about them.

Page -6-
Ease

This is a little bargain-making. I’m going to ask you to make a point on a line between snug fanny
fit/tight sit fit and comfy fanny fit/snug sit fit.

This is like a scale that will constantly be fluctuating. Each pair of pants and it’s function will
determine how you will be sliding this around. It doesn’t have to be fixed, unless you want it to be,
but there is a bargain going on here. It’s just the nature of the beast - it’s the nature of pants.

On the next page is a typical Ease Chart. This is only a place to start. Every person’s ease
preferences are different - another way these pants will be customized for you.

Page -7-
Page -8-
Ease Chart with various ease “suggestions” for fitting garments. Your garment may be tighter
or looser as you like it.
Apex Point
This is a concept I discovered and used fitting my brides and debs. Some of them were lucky to have
a 32A size, and wanted to look voluptuous. Others were doing good to get into a 38 DD and didn’t
want “the girls” accentuated. What I learned is that fitting right below the fullest apex point (or
furthest part something sticks out), caused that area to look fuller. Gradually decreasing the line,
caused the area to look smaller.

This works for the

< bust
< hips
< thighs
< stomach
< fanny
< any other part that sticks out from the body

The apex is a tip, summit, peak. In this case it’s the part of the silhouette that is at the most outward
part from the body. I know we’re talking about pants, but this applies. So stay with me on this!

Here’s an example of this:

Who is the hippier girl?

Who’s the fattest?
The one on the left?
The one on the right?
Well, you guessed it. The one on the right
looks far bigger than the one on the left. They
are both actually the same size in the hips, it’s
just the line of the skirt.

Page -9-
TAKE NOTE: See how close the skirt fits BELOW the hip? The hip is the apex point - the part that
sticks out the most.
< When you fit closely JUST BELOW the apex point, you ACCENTUATE that area of the
body.
< When you GRADUALLY fit below the apex point, it DE-ACCENTUATES that part of the
body.
< See how the pink skirt has almost a straight line from the hip to the hem, as opposed to the
inwardly curved line of the blue skirt?

This is huge when you start using it. It’s almost magical, but the truth is that it works.

It’s Personal
I really do want you to get used to being “picky” about your pants. There are going to be so many
ways you can tweak them, that once you get most of your fitting elements fit, you can do a little
tweaking here and there, and suddenly having a pair of pants is just as easy as cutting them out,
sewing them up, and they fit every time.

CAUTION:
I have to insert one word of caution here. I have noticed through my life sewing for myself, that if
I gain a few here and there, like over the holidays, and can’t fit into some pants are they are a little
snug, I think, “Oh well, I just make up another pair.”

Then I’m past the holidays and still haven’t taken off that extra 5 and put on another 5, I think, “Oh
well, I can make up another pair that will fit.”

Eventually, what happens is that when (as a lot of us do) we use our pants to help us maintain our
little girlish figures, that you will begin to just make up more pants. Once you get used to making

Page -10-
up these pants and fitting yourself, you’re not going to have that one pair that always “used to fit”
to help you keep your weight down. You’ll have a pair for when you’re really skinny; when you’re
sort of skinny; when you’re sort of a little large; and when you’re larger.

You’ll have Pants galore! (And they will fit!)

Page -11-
Chapter Two

STARTING OUT

Step One:
The first thing you should do is get a pattern sloper1. Several pattern companies have some out, here
is one of my favorites. What I like about this pattern is that it is to the waist (it is not a lo-rise waist
band), it has no pleats, it has gently tapered leg, not pegged, not stove-pipe, not boot leg.

Vogue Patterns 1003

Courtesy of voguepatterns.com

Other pattern companies have similar patterns. Make sure it has darts only, no pleats and at waist
or close to waist.

Size:
Buy the pattern in the size of your largest measurement. If your hip measures 50, and size 12 is 48",
but 14 is 50½”, buy the size 14. It is much easier to pinch in than to insert then have to pinch in
later.

1
Sloper means basic pattern, mostly used as a model pattern to create a design from

Page -12-
Step Two:
Alter the pattern.
If you have purchased a larger size than your measurements, then
all the width measurements will be fine for your muslin.

But no matter what you will have to alter the pattern crotch
height2. Do that by drawing a horizontal (parallel to the horizon)
anywhere from the crotch line to the waist line. See the illustration
to the right.

Cut across that horizontal line and insert an inch at least into the front and the back. If you feel your
crotch is deep, insert 2 inches, if not, insert 1". But you will want to insert at least 1" in this
alteration.

Step Three:
Cut out your pattern in an inexpensive, nice weight muslin. You can get this at most any JoAnn’s,
Hancocks or fabric store.

Sew in your zipper. (By the way I have some really simple and easy zipper tutorials online or you
can order DVD by going to okcsu.com and clicking on “Store” in the menu and get them there.) If
you are sensitive about your tummy, sew the zipper in the back seam. If you are sensitive about your
fanny, sew the zipper in the front seam.

By sensitive, you feel that these are trouble spots that require extra attention in fitting.

If you feel both areas are sensitive, pick out the one that is the least sensitive or offensive, and sew

2
If you want to know more about this, check out the “Technical Know How’s”.

Page -13-
the zipper in there, fit the other side, then move the zipper to the size fitted, and work on the second
side. You probably won’t have to do this, but if you want to be really, really picky, this is the way
to do this. And remember I want you to get picky about your pants fitting.

Step Four:
OK - now let’s try them on and let’s start reading the wrinkles.

First, pull up the pants till the crotch depth feel comfortable - not to where it stops.

NOTE: Your waist of the pants should be at your natural waist. For you young girls out there, this
is not at your belly button. This is at the part of your waist that goes in, right below your rib cage.
This may not be where you want your finished pants to be, but believe me this will make those lower
rise pants fit so much better if you fit to the waist now.

When you have it just as high as you want it (the pants should fit loosely now and can be moved up
and down, if not, then move the crotch a little lower. See the end for information on Technical
Know How’s!).

Pin the pants to your Spanx or underwear to hold them up while you start pinching in the fabric.

Start at the waist: try to pinch in the same amount at side seams and center front and center back.
If your stomach is really flat, then you may pinch in more on the sides, if your waist is thick and you
don’t have much of one, you may not pinch in that much. You should have a pretty close ease (a
standard ease is 1" at the waist, but remember you can make this any ease you want) at the waist, so
pinch in pretty close. As you begin to work down the stomach and hip, give yourself a little more
ease. When you get to the stomach, make sure you have at least 1" to 1½” ease.

Page -14-
Stop for a moment and look sideway in the mirror. Check your pitch.

What is pitch?
This is the tilt of the pant. The pants should be
tilted exactly perpendicular to the horizon =
vertical. If not, re-pitch the pants.

What does this mean. This means I want you to

Notice how the side seam in A is tilted forward?
physically tilt the pants till they hang straight. This Notice how the side seam in B is tilted back?
may mean that you have a gob of fabric in front, but Notice how the whole pant is tilted forward in C?

very little in back, or vice versa. And how the whole pant is backward in D?

If you tilt the pants so much that you have very little fabric, at the waist (in either front or back) or
the pattern waist hits below your natural waist, raise the pants. If you can’t because the crotch depth
is too high, take the pants off and make the crotch depth lower. (See the Appendix: Technical How
To’s on more for this).

If your seamline is off, but your pants are strait: you can hold a ruler from your hip, to check to
see where that “plumb” line is. Place a pin or mark at the bottom of the hem where you want the
bottom of the plumb line to hit. Now hold the ruler with your hand and let it swing freely so that it
will find the plumb line and move it over to line it up with the mark on your hem, and make a mark
on the side hip and waist where the ruler intersect. Now you have a straight side seam line.

If your pants are crooked and you need to straighten them up: hold on to your pants with one
hand on waist center front and the other on waist center back and roll the pants till you get them
hanging straight or plumb. This doesn’t have to be exact like the Empire State Building, but enough

Page -15-
so that it doesn’t look wrong. After all it will move around a bit after you finish the pants.

Mark, either with a pencil or a pin, where center front waist is and where center front back is. You
can get a friend DH to help while you hold the pant to your back and say, stick the pin in there, and
hopefully he will stick it in the fabric and not your back!

Step Five: The Appendix is filled with all sorts of useful

You’ve done quite a bit of alteration. Now “Know How’s” you can flip through it at any
time to check out some handy techniques that I
lets take the pants off and alter what you’ve use throughout the fitting. If you would like a
DVD of these, please check this out at “The
marked. See the Technical Know How’s to
Store” at okcsu.com.
check out pin removal and marking for altered
sewing.

Press, as best you can.

Step Six:
Put the pants back on again and let’s check a few things

First let’s do a little checklist:

1. Check to make sure your seam is hanging straight, and the pitch of the pants is straight.
Seam hanging straight and pants crooked is not a good pitch. The pants should be hanging
straight and seam should be straight. To cure this, check out “Pitch Problems” in the back
chapter.
2. The pants should be hitting close to where you have marked your waist, both CF and CB,
if not, readjust now.
3. You should have a little ease (depth ease) in the crotch, if not lower your pants and remark
your waistline.
OK - ready to go on.

Page -16-
Step Seven:
Let’s make some darts.

Not everyone needs darts. Darts are for fitting from the waist to the hip area.
We are all shaped differently and some of us have little or no waist, some of
us have a waist. If you do not require darts, no worries, if you do, then now
is the time to put them in. Usually start with two in front and one in back.
The two in front should be equal-distance between CF and side seams and the
longer dart should be closer to center front. I wouldn’t make them any longer
than about 6" or shorter than 2". You can use the pattern as a guide, but
remember these are to fit you not some pattern person.

Add two darts in back, one each side of CB.

This doesn’t mean that you might not need more darts. How can you tell? If
you have a very strong curve in the small of your back, then you will need
more darts. When you add darts like this, make the longest dart closest to CB
and shortest dart to the side seam. The should be evenly spaced between side seam and CB.

Step Eight:
Reading some wrinkles. Here are some places to look first
• Crotch - any wrinkles?...pulling?
• Wrinkles around the knees?
• Wrinkles in the back?...pulling?
OK - all these mean something, and sometimes they mean 2 or more things.
Here are some typical wrinkles and what they mean.

Page -17-
From the front:
Symptom: This is a pretty standard wrinkle, and usually means
your crotch line is too high on your pants.
Cure: Lower your pants, raise your waistband, until this wrinkle
disappears.

From the front, side & rear

Symptom: This looks like the too short
crotch, but the back gives this away-
wrinkles at back legs. Pitch too far
forward.
Cure: Re-pitch the pants so that they fall
straight without wrinkles in back.

Page -18-
 From the front and side
Symptom: wrinkles below the knees in front.
Sometimes also wrinkles at crotch. Pants
tilting too far back.
Cure: Tilt pants forward to correct knee
wrinkles.

From front and side

Symptom: wrinkles showing space over stomach too tight or
buckling fabric around stomach.
Cure: insert one dart on either side of center front. Redraw
crotch line, as center front needs to curve out below waist, then
gentle curve in (allowing more fabric around stomach and area
below stomach), to the inseam. There needs to be more fabric
through the lower stomach, upper hip area to prevent pulling
below the stomach.

Page -19-
This is excellent demonstration of why the crotch seam (of CF & CB)
are so critical. Notice how in the left version there is more fabric for
the stomach, particularly below the stomach. This will allow for the
pant to fall flat from the stomach, while in the right drawing there is
less fabric in the CF/crotch seam, and notice how the fabric/space is
created in front, not in the bottom of the seam. Also notice that both
legs are essentially the same, while the crotch seams are all that’s
changed.

Also notice how in the left version the pants hang at a gentle angle from
the stomach (the apex of this shape), while the example on the right pulls
in under the stomach area, showing off the pouching stomach even more.

Page -20-
From the back.
Symptom: This is a little hard to show, but what this looks like is a pull when
the crotch seams starts to slope inward toward the inseam. There’s a pull that
requires more room, that might make you think that an addition to the side seam
would do it.
Cure: Again redraw the crotch seam. To create more space in this area, you do
not add fabric to the side seam, you need to have more fabric in the CB. Notice
how left closely follows the body and just as the crotch begins to swing into the
inseam, it squares a little to add more space, while the right is too rounded. The
CB seam on right does not have enough space in bottom crotch seam, but there
is that space on the left view.

Basically from now on out, you are tweaking. You will have these pants on many times before they
are finished. As you begin to clear up one area, another will show up. Deal with that. Pretty soon
some wrinkles that didn’t look bit look like a big deal now begin to take center stage. Deal with
those next.

Remember the “good wrinkles” and not to get them confused with the bad ones.

Page -21-
Keep your muslin clean
It’s worth it after a few fittings to clean up your muslin, press it well, and then try it on again. This
way you ensure an excellent fit each time you have them on.

The end result should be that the pants fall straight to the hem from the apex point of your body -
stomach, hips and/or fanny, the side seam should be straight and the tilt of the pants should hang
straight (the front crease should slightly tilt in at hem, and the back crease should slightly tilt in at
hem).

Move Around
During your fittings you should walk, sit with legs crossed (if you do that), step, stoop (if you have
good knees) and check to make sure that the crotch is comfortable. If when you sit, the pants catch
at the knees and thighs, this is a clue that you will require lining. I know it sounds like a pain, but
there’s nothing more luxurious than lined pants, and they fall beautifully, and when you sit, they
move beautifully, and fall beautifully again when you stand. Additionally, lining prevents springing
of the fabric. After pants are worn for a while, they can get a “bent” area in the knee and fanny, but
lining prevents this from happening and keeps your pants look fresh and new.

I personally recommend Bemberg Ambience Rayon lining for all my pants and jackets, but use
something that is smooth to the skin and slides over other fabrics, and you will be happy with it.

Page -22-
Chapter Three:

Finishing up
I use a Sharpie Permanent Marker and time to mark all the seams. You’re marking only the
seams, as marking both seams and seam allowances right now will be confusing.

< Clean up all seams

< Make sure sewing is as neat as possible
< Press pants well
< Do a final fitting check
< Walk, sit, stoop, step and stand
< Check pitch and comfort

Next, pull the pattern apart, and press.

I never use the pattern directly, I trace onto pattern making fabric or tissue, mark out my seam
allowances, and use that tissue for cutting out pants. I keep this muslin as clean and pristine as
possible, and when I need a new tissue, I trace it from this original muslin.

Mark the following on one side:

< All seams
< Notches
< Zipper placement
< Zipper endings
< Darts
< Side waist markers
< Mark the whole waistband

Page -23-
As we age, your shape will change. It’s inevitable. What really happens is that you will gain about
the same all over, even though you may think your hips are bigger, or your stomach is bigger, the
truth is that you gain all over. As you do, you can adjust your muslin as you need to. In another 10
years, you may want to trace out your old muslin adding 2" seam allowances and make it up and do
fitting again. This fitting will be very different from your first one, because you are tweaking with
the original pattern. This is how you can keep this pattern up to date for you.

Page -24-
 Chapter Four
Variations

One of the things that’s great about your new muslin pattern, are the variations.

Shorts
Pants with pleats
Capri pants
Short pants
Pants with cuffs
Stovepipe pants
Bootleg pants
Full skirt pants

With a variety of pocket variations

Side pockets
Side seam pockets (not my favorites)
Besom pockets
Welt pockets
Watch fob pockets

Basically anything with legs can be worked off your pattern now, but remember to trace from the
muslin only, not to use the muslin to cut. The reason is so that it saves any “shaving” that takes
place with each cutting.

Page -25-
Technical Techniques and Glossary

a·pex (noun, plural a·pex·es, a·pi·ces) - the tip, point, or vertex; summit.

slop·er (noun) - a basic pattern developed on paper by drafting or in cloth by draping, but with
seam allowances omitted, used as a tool to create other patterns.

Pattern crotch depth/inseam height. Why are pattern crotch depths so high (or inseam
heights so long). Because this is the maximum amount of fabric you will need. I discuss this
later in fitting and drawing that crotch seam, but because the pattern company wants you to have
as much fabric as you will need, this is actually where you want this line drawn. The trouble is
that most of us (probably 99% of us) don’t need this extra fabric, and when we fit a pair of pants
for the first time, it brings up a myriad of problems. No worries: we’ll fix that in the second
chapter.

Why do you lower or raise the crotch seam (or lengthen or shorten the inseam)? This gets into
what I call the Einstein part of the pant: where up is down
and down is up, out is in and in is out. The same thing
occurs in the underarm area.

First of all let’s pretend we cut you in half side ways. So

this is your profile now (from the waist down)!

See the view on the right is your body cut in half with your
crotch line drawn in blue. And the pattern is to the left.
Are there ANY similarities between your crotch line and
the pattern line? I see none...on the body, it slopes inward

Page -26-
in back below the waist, then out and has a more rounded curve in back than in front. The height
is about right, and the width might be a little large. The crotch is not at all as deep as you need,
and it is definitely not the same shape.

Can you see the alterations we’re going to make? But here’s the deal, if you don’t know that you
have to make these alterations, it’s no wonder sometimes pants don’t fit. Please don’t think
you’re stupid cause you don’t know to fit these areas. And I’m going to show you how.

Now that you know you can and how to fit these areas, it’s going to make pants fitting a lot less
mystifying and you’re going to want to make up a lot of them.

So the very first thing you want to do is lower that crotch....that’s why (on page 13, before you
ever put on the pants), I have you lower that crotch. And that doesn’t mean it’s the last time to
lower it....you may have to lower it a couple of more times. So how do you do that?

How to draw a lower crotch line. You will need

this after you have cut out the pants Let’s start by
putting this on a graph. What we want to do is
lengthen the crotch line, but not widen it. That
means that we have to draw so that the crotch does
not get any wider than the green lines and yet lower
than the blue line. This looks a little hard, but
think of this as stretch it down but not out.

Lower the crotch line solves so many problems, you will be surprised. But also remember we’re
going to fit this line...this is your center back and center front seam lines. So although you may
have lowered the crotch line, remember there are some other features in Chapter Two to help you
through the rest of the process.

Page -27-
Pin marking for fitting a seam.
NOTE: you can always fit on the wrong side of the pants with the seams sticking out, but
honestly, I find this very distracting and since this is not how you will be wearing the pants, for
me it’s not worth the ease in marking the seam. Besides once you get used to this method, it will
be a far better read on your fitting requirements.

So first let’s start with what you have. You have pinned the seam in where you want it and have
taken the pants off to prepare to sew where you have pinned.

First, make sure that you have pinned, in your fitting so that the seam amount is even with the
sewn seam. For example, on the side seam, you don’t want to take out 1½” out of the front and
1" out of the back, you want to make sure you have 1½” out of both front and back, so that the
sewn seam lays flat and doesn’t buckle.

Basically what we want to do is unpin the first pin only half way - - so that the pin is through
both layers of the fabric and the sharp side is on one side of the seam while the head side is on
the other. Now carefully pull the pin through only one layer of fabric. So you are “marking”
where the pin when in, and leaving it only on one side of the fabric.

Now do this with all of the pins so that you will have a row of pins through only one layer of the
fabric. But the are on the right side. So with the pins in place turn to the inside and with a
marking pencil, chalk or other marking tool, mark the line the pins make. This will be your
sewing ling.

This is an infallible method to use while fitting. Don’t make this into rocket science, but at the
same time do be careful about your markings and this method will work wonders.

Page -28-