Why were some fragrances popular in their day?
Why did some fragrances transcend the trends?
1900-1920- The luxuries of Art Nouveau transformed fragrance into precious liquids housed in
expensive flacons to adorn vanities. Francois Coty invented a new fragrance: Chypre, named
after the island that inspired it, Cyprus. Chypre also became the name of a family of fragrances
that used similar notes. Guerlain was established and Shalimar was introduced.
20s- Women shed their corsets and became emancipated. Hemlines rose and rolled-down
hose exposed the legs of flappers. The return of peace set off new aspirations toward
modernity: women work, play, and smoke. It was a time of shocking excess.Jean Patou's Joy
launched billed as the world's most expensive perfume. The birth of the iconic Chanel N°5
introduced aldehydes which infused a breath of freshness and energy into fragrances.
30s 40s- These were tough economic times coming out of the Great Depression and into
WWII. But Haute Couture and fragrance married to showcase an image of feminine seduction
influenced by Hollywood star power. After the war, Christian Dior launched a new look in
fashion and, in turn, fragrances became decidedly feminine and lighter. Glamorous women
everywhere wore wearing Miss Dior & L'Air du Temps
Parfum- through smoke
Perfume originally as offering to gods, nobility wore to get closer to Gods
Middle Ages: Wealthy wore musk amber resins, antibacterial properties
Renaissance: First Italian chemists, perfumers scented gloves with oils to mask tanning scent
Classical Era 1600-1700 : Bathing became dangerous so used a lot of perfume *Versailles
1700s: France center of perfumery. Eau de Cologne (Italian chemist made)
1860-1900 modern perfumery: first synthetic ingredients
******Birth of modern perfumery elevated fragrance to an arm form bc new notes became
available and perfumers could become more creative in their formulations
1900-1920: fragrance= luxury. Coty teamed up with Lalique to make beautiful bottles.
1920s-1930s: Chanel 5 w lots of synthetics