CASE 2-2 Cultural Norms, Fair & Lovely, and Advertising Fair & Lowly, 2 branded product of Hindustan Unilever Ltd (HUL), is touted as a cosmetic that lightens skin color On its web- site (ou coin), the company eas its produet “the miracle worker proven to deliver one to tee shades of change.” Wh tanning is the rage in Western countries, skin lightening treatments are popu lar in Asia, ‘According to industry sources, the topselling skin lightening cream in India is Fair & Lovely from Hindustan Unilever Ltd (HUL), followed by CavinKare’s Fairever brand. HULs Feit & Lovely brand dominated the market with a 90 percent share until CavinKare Ltd. (CKL) launched Fairever. In just two years, the Fairever brand gained an impressive 15 percent market share TUL’ shave of market forthe Fair & Lovely line generates about ‘$60 milion annually. The produet sells for about 23 rupees ($0.29) for a25-gram tube of cream ‘The rapid growth of CavinKare’s Fairever (sow cavinkave com) brand prompted HUL to inereae ite advertising effort and tolauncha series of ads depicting a “fairer ga gets the boy theme” (One advertisement featured a financially strapped father lamenting his fate, saying, “If only [had a son,” while his darkeskinned daugh- wos on, helpless and demoralized because she cat bear the financial responsiblity of her fanny: Fastforward and plain Jene has been transformed into a gorgeous lghtskinned woman through the use of a fairness cream,” Fair & Lovely. Now clad in a min skis, the woman is a successful ight attendant and ean take her father to dine a a fivestar hotel. She's happy and soi he father In another ad, two attractive young women are sitting in a bed oom one has a boytiend and, consequently i happy. The darker skinned woman, lacking a boyiiend, is not happy. Her friend's advice: Use a bar of soap to wash away the dark skin that's keeping ‘men from flocking o he. HUL’ series of ads provoked CavinKare Ltd. to counter with an ad that takes a dig at HUL's Fair & Lovely ad. CavinKare's aad bas a father-daughter duo as the protagonists, withthe father shown encouraging the daughter to be an achiever irespecive of ber complexion. CavinKare maintained tha the objective of i new ‘commercial is not to take a dig at Fair & Lovely but to “reinforce Fairever's positioning” Skin color is @ powerful theme in India, and much of Asia where i lighter color represents a higher status, While Americans and Europeans floc to tanning salons, many across Asia seck ways te have “Lait” complexions. Culturally. fair skin is atsociated with positive values that late to class and beauty, One Indias lady com. ‘mented that when she was growing up, her mother forbade her to g0 outdoors. She was not trying to keep her daughter out of trouble but was trying to keep her skin from getting dark Brahmins, the priestly caste atthe top of the social hierarchy, are considered fair because they traditionally stayed inside, poring over books, The undereaste at the bottom of the ladder are regarded asthe darkest people because they customarily worked in the sea ing sun. Ancient Hindu scriptures and modern poetry eulogize women endowed with skin made of white mazble, Skin color is closely identitied with caste and is laden with sym bolism. Pursue any of the “grooms” and “brides wanted” ads in newspapers or on the web that are used by families to arrange suit able alliances, and you will see tht most potential grooms and their families are looking for “fac” brides; some even are progressive enough to invite responses from women belonging to a differs caste. These ads, hundreds of which appear in India’s daily news: apes, reflect attempts to solicit individuals with the appropriate religion, cate regional ancestry, professional and educational qual ifieations, and, frequently skin color. Even in the growing numbers of ads that announce “easte no bas,” the adjective “fit” regulacly precedes profesional qualifications. In everyday conversation, the lultimate compliment on someone's looks is to say someone is gort (Gai) “Thave no problem with people wanting tobe lighter” said 2 Delhi beauty parlor owner, Saroj Nath "It doesn't make you rac: ist, any more than trying to make yourself look younger makes you ages” Bollywood (India's Hollywood) glorifies conventions on beauty by always casting a farskinned actress in the role of heroine, surrounded by the darkest extras. Wonten want to use whiteners because itis “aspirational, ike losing weight TBven the gods supposedly lament their dark complexion— Krishna sings plaintively, "Radha kyoon gor, main kyoon Kala? (Why is Radha so fair when I'm dark)” A skin deficient in melanin (the pigment that determines the ski's brown colo) i an ancient predilection, More than 3,500 years ago, Charaka, the famous sae, ‘wrote about herbs that could help make the skin fs Indian dermatologists maintain that fairness products cannot twuly work as they reach only the upper layers of the skin and £0 do not affect melanin production. Nevertheless, for some, Fair & Lovely isa "miracle worker” A user gushes that "The last time L went to my parents’ home, I got eompliments on my far skin from everyone.” For others, there is only disappointment. One 26-year old working woman has bees a regular user forthe past eight years but to:no avai. “T should have tuned into Snow White by now, but ry skin ie stil the same wheatish color” Ae an owner of a pub lic relations firm commented. "My maid has been using Fair and Lovely for yeats and stil can't see er inthe datk... But she goes fon using it. Hope springs eternal, I suppose.” ‘The number of Indians who think lighter skin is more beaut ful may be shrinking, Sumit Isralni, a 2-yearold hair designer in his father's salon thinks things have changed inthe let two years, at least in India's most cosmopolitan cities, Delhi, Mumba. and Bangalore, Women now “prefer thet own complexion, this natural ‘vay. Isralni says; he prefers a mare “Indian beauty” himself “I won't jude my wale on how fair her complexion is.” Sunite Gupta, 4 beautician in the same salon, is more ertieal, “I's just foolish ness!” she excleimed. The premise of the eds thet women could not become airline attendants if they are darkskinned was wr she said. “Nowadays people like black beauty ‘women, especially in the te aller what thei kin color. Yet, unlike the approach used in Ind, advertisements elsewhere usally show how to us the product and owt works Commenting on the cultural bias toward fair skin, one critic states, “There ate attractive people who go through life feeling inferior to their feicer sisters. And all because of charming grand: ‘mothers and aunts who do not hesitate to make vatlaltering com: parisons. Kalee Kafoot isan oftheard comment about women Wao happen to have darker skin. They get humiliated and mortified over This a teuism that csa-7cs2-8 the color of their skin, a fact over which they have no control, Are societal values reponsble? Or advertising campaigns? Advertising ‘moguls claim they only reflect prevailing attitudes in India, This ‘is possibly true, but what about ethics in advertising? Ie it correct to make advertisements that openly denigrate a majority of Indian peoplethe darkskinned populace? The advertising is blatant in {heir strategy. Mock anyone who is not the right color and shoot down their sllinage. ‘A dermatologist comments, “Fairness obtained with the help reams is shortlived, The main reaton being, most of these cams contain a certain amount of bleaching agent, which whitens facial halt, and not the skin, which leeds people to believe thatthe cream worked.” Furthermore, “In India the popularity of a proget depends totaly onthe success of its advertising HUL launched its television ad campaign to promote Fair & Lovely but withdrew it after four months amid severe criticism for as portrayal of women, Activists argued that one of the messages the company sends through its “air hostess” ads demonstrating the preference for a son who would be able to take on the financial ‘esponsibility for his parensis especialy harmful in a country such a8 India where gender discrimination is rampant, Anotber offense ‘i perpetuating a culture of discrimination in a society where “air” ‘i synonymous with “beautiful” AIDWA. (All India Women’s Democratic Association) lodged a complaint atthe time with HUL bout their offensive ade, bat Hindustan Unilever fle to respond. The women's association then appealed to the National Human Rights Commission alleging thatthe a demeaned women. AIDWA ‘objected to three things (1) the ads were racist, (2) they were pro- toting son preference, and (3) they were insulting to working women, "The way they portrayed the young woman who, after using Fair & Lovely, became attractive and therefore lands a job suggested that Use main qualification fore woman to gel ajo is way she looks” The Human Rights Commission passed AIDWA’s ‘complaints on to the Ministry of Information and Broadesting, which said the campaign violated the Cable and Television Net ‘work Aet of 1995—provsions inthe aet state that no advertisement shal be permitted which “éerides any race, caste, color, creed and rationality” and that "Women must not be portrayed in a manner ‘hat emphasized passive, submissive qualities and encourages them to play a subordinate secondary role inthe family and society" The government issued notices of the complaints to HUL. After a year Tong campaign led by the AIDWA, Hindustan Unilever Limited iseontinaed two oft television advertisements for Fair & Lovely fairest cold era, ‘Shortly after pulling its ads off te ait, HUL launched its Fair & Lovely Foundation, vowing to “encourage economie empowerment fof women across India" by providing resources in education and business to millions of women “who, though immensely talented and capable, need a guiding hand to help them take the leap for wand” presumably into a fairer future THIUL sponsored career fais in over 20 cities across the country, offering counseling in as many 2s 110 careers. It supported 100 rural scholarehipe for women students passing their 10th grade, a professional course for aspiring beauticians, and a three-month Home Healtheare Nursing Assistant course catering t0 young women between the ages of 18 and 30 yeare. According to HUL, the Fair & Lovely Academy for Home Care Nursing Assistants offers a unique training opportunity for young women who possess ro entryievel sis and therefore are not employable in the new economy job market. The Fair & Lovely Foundation plans to serve as 2 catalyst for the economie empowerment for women across of Part Supplementary Material India. The Fair & Lovely Foundation will showease the achieve- ments of these women not only to honor them but also to set an ‘example fr other women to follow. AIDWA's campaign against ads that convey the message, "i'she ‘snot fairin color she won't get marred or won't get promoted,” also ‘ha resulted in some adjustment to fairness eteam ads. In revised version ofthe fairness cream ads, the “get far to atract a groom” theme is being reworked with “enhance your sell-confidence” so that a potential groom himself begs for attention, It an atempt st typlhing the modern Indian woman, who fat more than just marriage on her mind. Advertising focus is now on the message {that lighter skin enables women to obtain jobs conventionally held by men, She is careeroriented, has high aspirations, and, atthe same time, wants to look good. AIDWA concedes thatthe current cop of television ads for fairness eteams ate “not as demeaning” a5 ones in the past. However it remains agenst the product; as the president of AIDWA stated, “Its downright racist to denigrate dark skin, Although AIWDA's campaign against feirness creams seems to have had a modest impact on changing the advertising mes sage, it has not slowed the demand for fairness creams, Sales of, Fair & Lovely, for example, have been growing 15 to 20 pereent year over year, and the $318 million market for skin care has frown by 42.7 percent in the last three years. Says Euromonitor International, «research firm: “Half of the skin care market in India is faieness creams and 60 to 65 percent of Indian women tse these products daily Recently, several Indian compenies were extending their mar keting of faimness creams beyond urban and rural markets. Cavin. aces lunch of Faiever, a fatness eteam in a small sachet pack priced at Rs 5, aimed at ral markets where some 320 million Ind fant reride. Moet marketers have found rural markets impossible to penetrate profitably due o low income levels and inadequate dist bution systems, among other problems, However, HUL is approsch: ‘ng the marke through Projet Shakti, «rural initiative that targets small villages with populations of 2.000 people or less. It empow. ers underprivileged rural women by providing income-generating opportunities to sell small lower-priced packets of its brands in villages. Special packaging forthe rural market was designed to peo vide singleute sachet packets at SO pase for a sachet of shampoo {oRe $ for fairness cream ((or a week's usage). The aim iso have 100,000 “Shakti Ammas.” as they ae called, spread aross 500.000 sillages in India by year end. CavinK.re is growing at 25 percent in rural aeas compared with 1S percent in urban centers, In addition to expanding market effort into rural markets, an unexpected market arose when a research study revealed Indian men were applying gil faimess potions in droves-but on the sly. Iwas estimated that 40 percent of boyftiends/husbands of iclitiends/wives were applying white magic solutions that came fn lite tubes. Indian companies spotted a businese opportunity, and Fair & Handsome, Menz Active, Fair One Man, and a male bleach called Saka were introduced tothe male market. The sector expanded dramatically when Shah Rukh Khan a highly acclaimed Bollywood actor likened to an Indian Tom Cruise, decided to endorse Fair & Handsome, Euromonitor International forecasts that inthe next five years, spending on men's grooming produ: will rise 24 percent to 145 billion rupees, or US$320 milion. ‘A recent produet review in yrs mots com praises Fair & Lovely faimets cream: “Fair & Lovely] contains farnestvtersine which penetcate deep dawn our skin to give us radiant fairness.” "T don't know if it ean change the skin color fom dark to fit, but myCases 2 The Cultural Environment of Global Marketing os2- personal experience is that it works very well ifyou have a naturally olor and want to preserve it without muck headache” “T think Riya Sen has the best skin right now in Bollywood, It appeats to be really sft and tender. So, to have soft and fur skin like her I 220: ommend Fair & Lovely Fairness Lotion o Cream.” Yet “skin color Isn't a proof of greatness. Those with wheatish or dark skin are by ‘no way inferior to those who have fair skin. Here area few facts from Hindustan Unilever Ltd's homepage: Lever Limited is India's largest Packaged Mass Consump- ‘on Goods Company. We are leaders in Home and Personal (Care Products and Food and Beverages inchuding such prod ucts as Ponds and Pepsodent. We seek to meet everyday needs of people everywhere—to anticipate the aspirations of our consumers and customers and to respond creatively and competitively with branded products and services whic raise the quality of lif. It is this purpose which inspires us to build brands. Over the past 70 years, we have introduced bout 110 brands Feir & Lovely has been specially designed and proven to deliver one to thee shades of change in most people. Also its sunscreen system is specially optimized for Indian skin. Indian skin, unlike Caucasian skin, tends to “tan” rather than “burn” and, hence, requires a different combination of UVA and UVB sunscreens ‘You may want to visit Fait and Lovey’s homepage bil co in Jorands|personat-cre|fairandlovely: html for additonal informa tion about the product, QUESTIONS 1. Ist ethical to sell a product that is at best, only mildly exfective? Discuss 2 Isitethical to exploit cultural norms and values to promote & product” Discuss 3 Ie the advertising of Pair & Lovely demeaning to women, of sit promoting the fairness cream ina way not too dissmi lar from how most cosmetics are promoted? 4. Will HUL’s Far & Lovely Foundation be enough to counter charges made by AIDWA? Discuss, 5. In light of AIDWA’s charges, how would you suggest Fair & Lovely promote its product? Diseuss. Would your response be ferent if Fairever continued to use “Taieness” as a theme o its promotion? Discuss. 6, Propose a promotion/maketing proeram that will counter all the arguments and charges against Fair & Lovely and be an effective program, 1. Now that « male market for fairness eream exists isthe strength of AIDWA's argument weakened? 8, Comment on using “Shakti Ammas” to introduce cream for the masses” in ight of AIDWA’s charges 9, Listen o “In Indi, Skin Whitening Creams Reflect Od Biases” NPR, November 12, 2008. 10 In 2014, the Advertsing Standards Counell of India, a seit regulated advertiser group issued e new set of guidelines, that wil ban all ads that depict those with darker skin as ‘being inferior in any way Se hip igiday com/marketing Jlowrads-wonteeindienselevision-ver), How do you think this wil affect Fair & Lovely a a brand? How should HUL deal withthe news? Sates Nise Lato, “nian Wore Citi Far aod Lb Lal” om fry eens. Ape 1, 200 Arad Para, “OMeons gy Maren rr, ane 92003, ‘on, scons ea fo oad, Mar 30%; Rina Charan, “Al for Se¥iconel” Bu Lin (Th Hind), Ap 2,200; Khorem Meteat a award Lie "Not Se Fas a Lay Fnac! Timer, th 9.2005 Buss Ind, Decor 7 2; Aaah af Sn Care Aas on TV De Ing Jamaryuet 200 Indus com Mei Aang Mareig Wath ‘Eon Tne (New Del Ini), Deen 8, 2006 Hae spon, “Tie Heit), Dak and sno” The Hinduitn Des Decenibet 23. 2007, Ina't He and Cry Ot Plt Sin” The Suey Tegraph (Lenton, ay 1, 2007, Pas Lovey?” ner Wie Jase 4. 2007 “The Race to Keep up ws Medere Trae Heda Joe 29.2007 Ane Kaman "Doig Way Dose Gnod-Cirt, Sud. ar Lonly’ Whit Cream Serge Management Jul 2.1 {G00 p. 151-1 “Ip Ina, Sn Wtenng Crane Rflet O14 Bae” NPR Nove 22009