17

ASSEMBLING AND
DECORATING CAKES
AFTER READING THIS CHAPTER, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO:

1. Prepare icings.
2. Assemble and ice simple layer cakes, sheet cakes, and cupcakes.
3. Perform basic cake-decorating techniques using a pastry bag, paper cone, and other basic
decorating tools.
4. Assemble cakes using a variety of specialized techniques, including the use of cake rings
and the application of glazes and rolled coatings.
5. Prepare a variety of European-style gateaux, Swiss rolls, and small cakes.

MUCH OF THE appeal of cakes is due to their appearance. Cakes are an ideal

medium in which a baker can express artistry and imagination. A cake need not be

elaborate or complex to be pleasing. Certainly, a simple but neatly finished cake is

more appealing than a gaudy, overdecorated cake that is done carelessly or with-

out any plan for a harmonious overall design.

There are, of course, many styles of cake decorating, and within each style hun-

dreds or thousands of designs are possible.

This chapter is, in part, an introduction to basic techniques for finishing cakes. The

most important requirement for making effective desserts is practice—hours and

hours of practice with the pastry bag and paper cone, the decorator’s chief tools.

415
416 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

Even the simplest designs (such as straight lines) require a lot of repetition. Only when
you have mastered the basic skills should you proceed to the more advanced techniques
presented in style manuals and cake decorating books.

A cake must be assembled and iced before it can be decorated. Therefore, we begin
with a study of icings, and include recipes for many variations. Then we discuss the
procedures for assembling basic layer cakes, sheet cakes, and other simple products.
Guidelines for more advanced techniques conclude the chapter.

P R E PA R I N G I C I N G S
ICINGS, ALSO CALLED frostings, are sweet coatings for cakes and other baked goods. Icings have
three main functions:
• They contribute flavor and richness.
• They improve appearance.
• They improve keeping qualities by forming protective coatings around cakes.

There are eight basic types of icings and other cake coatings:
• Poured fondant • Flat-type icings
• Buttercreams • Royal or decorator’s icing
• Foam-type icings • Glazes
• Fudge-type icings • Rolled coatings
Use top-quality flavorings for icings so they enhance the cake rather than detract from it. Use
moderation when adding flavors and colors. Flavors should be light and delicate.

Poured Fondant
ICINGS AND Poured fondant is a sugar syrup that is crystallized to a smooth, creamy white mass. It is familiar
FROSTINGS as the icing for napoleons, éclairs, petits fours, and some cakes. When applied, it sets up into a
shiny, nonsticky coating. (Until the recent popularity of so-called “rolled fondant” (p. 448), poured
Most people use the terms fondant was known simply as fondant. We now use the longer term in order to avoid confusion.)
icing and frosting interchange- A note is in order regarding the word “crystallized” in the previous paragraph. In Chapter 12,
ably, and for the most part they in the discussion of cooking sugar syrups, we stressed the importance of avoiding crystallization
do mean the same thing. More because it causes graininess. So how can crystallization occur in a smooth icing? When you read
specifically, however, products Procedure and Guidelines for Using Fondant, you will see this white icing starts as a sugar solu-
applied by pouring over an tion that is as clear as water. It is crystallization that turns it white and opaque. The key is to
item, such as fondant and flat control the temperature so when the crystals form, they are microscopically tiny. This is what
icing, are rarely referred to as keeps the fondant smooth and shiny. If the fondant is not made correctly, or is heated too much
frostings. Royal icing, as well, when used, the crystals become larger and the icing loses its shine and smoothness.
is always called icing, not Because it is difficult to make in the bakeshop, poured fondant is almost always purchased
frosting. When the term already prepared, either in the ready-to-use moist form or the dry form, which requires only the
frosting is used, it is likely to addition of water. In an emergency (for instance, if you run out of fondant and there is no time to
mean a thicker product that is get more from your supplier), flat icing can be substituted, although it will not perform as well.
applied with a palette knife or For those who wish to try making fondant, a formula is included here. The purpose of the
spatula, such as buttercream. glucose or cream of tartar is to invert some of the sugar in order to get the right amount of crystal-
But these are not absolute lization. If none is used, the syrup will set up to be too unworkable, and it will not be smooth and
definitions. Many pastry chefs white. When an excess of glucose or cream of tartar is added, not enough crystallization will take
are in the habit of calling all place and the fondant will be too soft and syrupy. Also, if the hot syrup is disturbed before it cools
these products icings. sufficiently (step 6 in the procedure), large crystals will form and the fondant will not be smooth
and shiny.
 PREPARING ICINGS 417

PROCEDURE AND GUIDELINES: Using Poured Fondant

1. Heat the fondant over a warm-water bath, stirring and flavor are reached (up to about 3 oz bitter chocolate
constantly, to thin it and make it pourable. Do not heat it per lb of fondant, or 190 g per kg). Chocolate will thicken
over 100°F (38°C), or it will lose its shine. the fondant, so the icing may require more thinning with
2. If it is still too thick, thin it with a little simple sugar syrup sugar syrup.
or water. 5. Apply the warm fondant by pouring it over the item or by
3. Add flavorings and colorings as desired. dipping items into it.

4. To make chocolate fondant, stir melted unsweetened

chocolate into the warm fondant until the desired color

POURED FONDANT
Yield: 6–7 lb (3–3.5 kg)

Sugar at 100% PROCEDURE

Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Clean a marble slab well and moisten it with water.
Set 4 steel bars on the slab in the shape of a square to
Sugar 6 lb 3000 g 100
hold the hot syrup when it is poured onto the marble.
Water 1 lb 8 oz 750 g 25
2. Combine the sugar and water in a heavy kettle and
Glucose 1 lb 2 oz 570 g 19 heat to dissolve the sugar. Boil until the temperature
or reaches 225°F (105°C).
Cream of tartar 0.5 oz 15 g 0.5 3. If glucose is used, warm it. If cream of tartar is used,
disperse it in a little warm water. Add the glucose or
the cream of tartar to the boiling syrup.
4. Continue to boil the syrup until it reaches 240°F
(115°C).
5. Pour the boiling syrup onto the marble slab and
sprinkle it with a little cold water to prevent
crystallization.
6. Let the syrup cool undisturbed to about 110°F (43°C).
7. Remove the steel bars and work the sugar with a steel
scraper, turning it from the outside to the center. It
will turn white and begin to solidify.
8. Continue to work the fondant, either by hand or by
putting it in a mixing bowl and working it slowly with
the paddle attachment, until it is smooth and creamy.
9. Keep the fondant in a tightly covered container.
418 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

Buttercreams
Buttercream icings are light, smooth mixtures of fat and sugar. They may also contain eggs to
increase their smoothness or lightness. These popular icings for many kinds of cakes are easily
flavored and colored to suit a variety of purposes.
There are many variations of buttercream formulas. We cover five basic kinds in this chapter:
1. Simple buttercreams are made by creaming together fat and confectioners’ sugar to the
desired consistency and lightness. A small quantity of egg whites, yolks, or whole eggs may
be whipped in. (For safety, use only pasteurized eggs.) Some formulas also include nonfat
milk solids.
Decorator’s buttercream (sometimes called rose paste) is a special type of simple but-
tercream used for making flowers and other cake decorations. It is creamed only a little, at
low speed, as too much air beaten into it would make it unable to hold delicate shapes.
Because shortening has a higher melting point than butter, it is often used as the only fat in
decorator’s buttercream, to give maximum stability to the finished décor. However, when
possible, a little butter may be included to improve the flavor.
2. Meringue-type buttercreams are a mixture of butter and meringue. These are very light
icings. The most frequently made of these kinds of buttercreams is Italian buttercream,
made with Italian Meringue (p. 259). Swiss Meringue (p. 259) can also be used as the base for
buttercream.
3. French buttercreams are prepared by beating a boiling syrup into beaten egg yolks, and
whipping to a light foam. Soft butter is then whipped in. These are very rich, but light, icings.
4. Pastry cream-type buttercream, in its simplest form, is made by mixing together equal
parts thick pastry cream and softened butter, and whipping until light. If more sweetness is
desired, sifted confectioners’ sugar may be mixed in. The recipe included in this chapter
(Vanilla Cream, p. 422, contains a lower proportion of butter than usual. To give it the neces-
sary body, a little gelatin is added. This type of preparation is better suited for use as a cake
filling rather than an exterior icing.)
5. Fondant-type buttercream is simple to make with only a few ingredients on hand. Simply
cream together equal parts fondant and butter. Flavor as desired.
Butter, especially unsalted butter, is the preferred fat for buttercreams because of its flavor
and melt-in-the-mouth quality. Icings made with shortening only can be unpleasant because the
fat congeals and coats the inside of the mouth, where it does not melt. However, butter makes a
less stable icing because it melts so easily. There are two ways around this problem:

• Use buttercreams only in cool weather.

• Blend a small quantity of emulsifier shortening with the butter to stabilize it.
Buttercreams may be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for several days. However, they
should always be used at room temperature in order to have the right consistency. Before using,
remove buttercream from the refrigerator at least 1 hour ahead of time and let it come to room
temperature. If it must be warmed quickly, or if it curdles, warm it gently over warm water and
beat it well until smooth.

Flavoring Buttercreams
Buttercreams may be combined with many flavorings, making them versatile and adaptable to
many kinds of cakes and desserts.
The quantities given in the following variations are suggested amounts for each 1 pound
(500 g) buttercream. In practice, flavorings may be increased or decreased to taste, but avoid
flavoring icings too strongly. Unless the instructions say otherwise, simply blend the flavoring
into the buttercream.

1. Chocolate. Use 3 ounces (90 g) semisweet dark chocolate. Melt chocolate and cool slightly.
(Chocolate must not be too cool or it will solidify before completely blending with the butter-
cream.) Blend with about one-quarter of the buttercream, then blend this mixture into the rest.
If your buttercream base is very sweet, use 11⁄2 ounces (45 g) unsweetened chocolate
instead of the sweet chocolate.
 PREPARING ICINGS 419

2. Coffee. Use 2⁄3 fluid ounces (20 mL) coffee compound (coffee flavoring), or 11⁄2 tablespoon
(5 g) instant coffee dissolved in 1⁄2 ounce (15 mL) water.
3. Marron (chestnut). Use 8 ounces (250 g) chestnut purée. Blend with a little of the butter-
cream until soft and smooth, then blend this mixture into the remaining buttercream. Flavor
with a little rum or brandy, if desired.
4. Praline. Use 2 to 3 ounces (60 to 90 g) praline paste. Blend with a little of the buttercream
until soft and smooth, then blend this mixture into the remaining buttercream.
5. Almond. Use 6 ounces (180 g) almond paste. Soften almond paste with a few drops of water.
Blend in a little of the buttercream until soft and smooth, then blend this mixture into the
remaining buttercream.
6. Extracts and emulsions (orange, lemon, etc.). Add according to taste.
7. Spirits and liqueurs. Add according to taste. For example: kirsch, orange liqueur, rum,
brandy.

SIMPLE BUTTERCREAM
For large-quantity measurements, see page 728.

Sugar at 100%
Ingredients U.S. Metric %
PROCEDURE
Butter 8 oz 250 g 40 1. Using the paddle attachment, cream
Shortening 4 oz 125 g 20 together the butter, shortening, and sugar
until well blended.
Confectioners’ sugar 1 lb 4 oz 625 g 100
2. Add the egg whites, lemon juice, and
Egg whites, pasteurized 1.25 oz 40 g 7.5
vanilla. Blend in at medium speed. Then
Lemon juice 0.08 oz (1⁄2 tsp) 2g 0.4 mix at high speed until light and fluffy.
Vanilla extract 0.12 oz ( ⁄4 tsp)
3
4g 0.6 3. For a softer buttercream, blend in the
Water (optional) 1 oz 30 g 5 water.

Total weight: 2 lb 2 oz 1076 g 172 %

VA R I AT I O N S

For flavored buttercreams, see above. DECORATOR’S BUTTERCREAM OR ROSE PASTE

Use 7 oz (200 g) regular shortening and 3 oz (90 g) butter. Omit
SIMPLE BUTTERCREAM WITH EGG YOLKS the lemon juice and vanilla. Add 0.75 oz (22 g) of either water
OR WHOLE EGGS or egg whites. Blend at low speed until smooth; do not whip.
Instead of the egg whites in the above recipe, substitute an
CREAM CHEESE ICING
equal weight of pasteurized egg yolks or whole eggs. These
substitutions make slightly richer icings. Also, the egg yolks Substitute cream cheese for the butter and shortening. Omit
help make a better emulsion. the egg whites. If necessary, thin the icing with cream or milk.
If desired, flavor with grated lemon or orange zest instead of
vanilla, and use orange juice and/or lemon juice instead of
milk for thinning the icing.
420 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

ITALIAN BUTTERCREAM
Yield: 1 lb 11 oz (850 g) For large-quantity measurements, see page 728.

Sugar at 100%
PROCEDURE
Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Make the meringue (Italian Meringue
Italian meringue
procedure on p. 259). Whip until completely
Sugar 8 oz 250 g 100 cool.
Water 2 oz 60 mL 25 2. Little by little, add the soft butter and
Egg whites 4 oz 125 g 50 continue to whip (a). Add each piece after
the previous one has been incorporated. In
Butter, soft 12 oz 375 g 150 the same way, whip in the shortening, if
Emulsified shortening 2 oz 60 mL 25 using, or the additional butter.
(or additional butter) 3. When all the fat has been incorporated,
Lemon juice 0.08 oz ( ⁄2 tsp)
1
2 mL 1 whip in the lemon juice and vanilla.

Vanilla extract 0.12 oz (3⁄4 tsp) 4 mL 1.5 4. Continue to whip until the buttercream is
smooth. The mixture will appear curdled
at first (b), but it will become smooth and
light with continued whipping (c).

VA R I AT I O N

For flavored buttercreams, see pages 418–419.

SWISS BUTTERCREAM
A B Instead of making Italian buttercream, use the
sugar and (pasteurized) egg whites (omitting
the water) in the formula to make a Swiss
meringue, as described on page 259. When the
meringue has cooled to room temperature,
continue with step 2 in the basic recipe.

C
 PREPARING ICINGS 421

FRENCH BUTTERCREAM
Yield: 1 lb 6 oz (688 g) For large-quantity measurements, see page 728.

Sugar at 100% PROCEDURE

Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan.
Bring to a boil while stirring, to dissolve the
Sugar 8 oz 250 g 100
sugar.
Water 2 oz 60 mL 25
2. Continue to boil until the syrup reaches a
temperature of 240°F (115°C).
Egg yolks 3 oz 90 g 37.5
3. While the syrup is boiling, beat the yolks with
Butter, softened 10 oz 300 g 125 a wire whip or the whip attachment of a mixer
until they are thick and light.
Vanilla extract 0.12 oz (3⁄4 tsp) 4 mL 1.5
4. As soon as the syrup reaches 240°F (115°C),
pour it very slowly into the beaten yolks while
VA R I AT I O N whipping constantly.
5. Continue to beat until the mixture is
For flavored buttercreams, see pages 418–419.
completely cool and the yolks are very thick
and light.
6. Whip in the butter a little at a time. Add it just
as fast as it can be absorbed by the mixture.
7. Beat in the vanilla. If the icing is too soft,
refrigerate it until it is firm enough to spread.

PRALINE BUTTERCREAM
Yield: 1 lb 2 oz (550 g) For large-quantity measurements, see page 728.

Sugar at 100% PROCEDURE

Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan,
bring to a boil to dissolve the sugar, and cook
Water 1.5 oz 40 g 33
the syrup to 248°F (120°C).
Sugar 4 oz 120 g 100
2. Whip the egg yolks until light. Gradually add
Egg yolks 3.33 oz (5 yolks) 100 g (5 yolks) 83 the hot syrup to the yolks, whipping
constantly. Whip until cool.
Butter, softened 6 oz 180 g 150
3. Whip in the butter and the praline paste.
Praline paste 5 oz 150 mL 125
422 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

CARAMEL BUTTERCREAM
Yield: 1 lb (500 g) For large-quantity measurements, see page 729.

Sugar at 100% PROCEDURE

Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Cook the first quantity of water and the
sugar to the caramel stage.
Water 1 oz 25 g 14
2. Let the caramel cool to 250°F (120°C) and
Sugar 6.5 oz 185 g 100
then add the second quantity of water and
the heavy cream. Cook until dissolved.
Water 1.75 oz 50 g 27
3. Add the coffee extract.
Heavy cream 1.25 oz 35 g 19
4. Whip the egg yolks until light, then whip in
Coffee extract 0.2 oz (1 tsp) 5g 2.7
the hot caramel. Whip until light; Continue
whipping until the mixture has cooled to
Egg yolks 2 oz 60 g 32
about 85°F (30°C).
Butter, softened 6.75 oz 190 g 103
5. Whip in one-third of the butter. When this
has been uniformly incorporated, whip in
the remaining butter.

VANILLA CREAM
For large-quantity measurements, see page 729.

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Whip the pastry cream until smooth.
Pastry Cream (p. 263) 1 lb 450 g
2. Soften the gelatin in cold water
Gelatin 0.25 oz 6g
(see pp. 80–82). Heat the rum. Add the
Rum 4 tsp 20 g gelatin and stir until dissolved, warming
as necessary.
Butter, softened 7 oz 200 g
3. Beat the gelatin mixture into the pastry
Total weight: 1 lb 7 oz 676 g cream.
4. Beat in the butter a little at a time. Whip
until smooth and light.

LIGHT PRALINE CREAM

For large-quantity measurements, see page 729.

Sugar at 100% PROCEDURE

Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Whip together the butter and praline paste
until smooth and light.
Butter, softened 8 oz 200 g 100
2. Whip in the cognac.
Praline paste 4 oz 100 g 50
3. Mix in the Italian meringue. Whip until
Cognac 1.5 oz 40 g 20
smooth.
Italian Meringue 14 oz 340 g 170
(p. 259)

Total weight: 1 lb 11 oz 680 g 340%

 PREPARING ICINGS 423

Foam-Type Icings
Foam icings, sometimes called boiled icings, are simply meringues made with a boiling syrup.
Some also contain stabilizing ingredients like gelatin. Foam icings should be applied thickly to
cakes and left in peaks and swirls.
These icings are not stable. Therefore, regular boiled icing should be used the day it is pre-
pared. Marshmallow icing should be made just before using and applied while still warm,
before it sets.

Plain Boiled Icing

Follow the recipe for Italian Meringue (p. 259), but include 2 ounces (60 g) corn syrup with the
sugar and water for the boiled syrup. Flavor the icing to taste with vanilla.

Marshmallow Icing
Soak 1⁄4 ounce (8 g) gelatin in 11⁄2 ounces (45 mL) cold water. Warm the water to dissolve the gelatin.
Prepare plain boiled icing. Add the dissolved gelatin to the icing after adding the hot syrup. Scrape
down the sides of the bowl to make sure that the gelatin is evenly mixed in. Use while still warm.

Chocolate Foam Icing and Filling

Prepare boiled icing. After the syrup has been added, blend in 5 ounces (150 g) melted, unsweet-
ened chocolate.

Fudge-Type Icings
Fudge-type icings are rich and heavy. Many of them are made somewhat like candy. Their predomi-
nant ingredient is sugar, and they contain less fat than buttercreams. Fudge icings may be flavored
with a variety of ingredients, and are used on cupcakes, layer cakes, loaf cakes, and sheet cakes.
Fudge icings are stable and hold up well on cakes and in storage. Stored icings must, how-
ever, be covered tightly to prevent drying and crusting.
To use stored fudge icing, warm it in a double boiler until it is soft enough to spread.

COCOA FUDGE ICING

Yield: 2 lb 6 oz (594 g)

Granulated Sugar at 100% PROCEDURE

Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Combine the granulated sugar,
Granulated sugar 1 lb 500 g 100 syrup, water, and salt in a
Corn syrup 5 oz 150 g 30 saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring
to dissolve the sugar. Boil the
Water 4 oz 125 mL 25
mixture until it reaches 240°F
Salt 0.1 oz (1⁄2 tsp) 2g 0.5
(115°C).
Butter or part butter 4 oz 125 g 25 2. While the sugar is cooking, mix
and part emulsified the fat, confectioners’ sugar, and
shortening cocoa until evenly combined,
Confectioners’ sugar 8 oz 250 g 50 using the paddle attachment of
Cocoa 3 oz 90 g 18 the mixer.
Vanilla extract 0.25 oz 8 mL 1.5 3. With the machine running at low
Water, hot as needed as needed speed, slowly pour in the hot syrup.
4. Mix in the vanilla. Continue to beat
VA R I AT I O N until the icing is smooth, creamy,
and spreadable. If necessary, thin
VANILLA FUDGE ICING
with a little hot water.
Use evaporated milk or light cream instead of water for the syrup. Omit the cocoa. Adjust
5. Use while still warm, or rewarm
consistency with additional confectioners’ sugar (to thicken) or water (to thin). Other
in a double boiler.
flavorings, such as almond, maple, peppermint, or coffee, may be used in place of vanilla.
424 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

CARAMEL FUDGE ICING

Yield: 2 lb (1 kg)

Sugar at 100% PROCEDURE

Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Combine the sugar and milk in a
saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring to
Brown sugar 1 lb 8 oz 750 g 100
dissolve the sugar. Boil the mixture until it
Milk 12 oz 375 g 50 reaches 240°F (115°C).
2. Pour the mixture into the bowl of a mixer.
Butter or part 6 oz 188 g 25
Let it cool to 110°F (43°C).
butter and part
shortening 3. Turn on the machine and mix at low speed
with the paddle attachment.
Salt 0.1 oz (1⁄2 tsp) 2g 0.4
4. Add the butter, salt, and vanilla, and
Vanilla extract 0.25 oz 8 mL 1
continue to mix at low speed until cool.
Beat the icing until it is smooth and
creamy in texture. If it is too thick, thin it
with a little water.

QUICK WHITE FUDGE ICING I

Sugar at 100% PROCEDURE
Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Place the water, butter, shortening, syrup,
and salt in a saucepan. Bring to a boil.
Water 4 oz 125 mL 12.5
2. Sift the sugar into the bowl of a mixer.
Butter 2 oz 60 g 6
3. Using the paddle attachment, and with
Emulsified shortening 2 oz 60 g 6
the machine running on low speed, add
Corn syrup 1.5 oz 45 g 4.5 the boiling water mixture. Blend until
Salt 0.1 oz ( ⁄2 tsp)
1
2g 0.25 smooth. The more the icing is mixed, the
lighter it will become.
Confectioners’ sugar 2 lb 1000 g 100 4. Blend in the vanilla.
Vanilla extract 0.25 oz 8 mL 0.75 5. Use while still warm, or rewarm in a
double boiler. If necessary, thin with hot
Total weight: 2 lb 9 oz 1300 g 130 %
water.

VA R I AT I O N

QUICK CHOCOLATE FUDGE ICING

Omit the butter in the basic recipe. After step 3, blend in 6 oz (188 g) melted
unsweetened chocolate. Thin the icing with hot water, as needed.
 PREPARING ICINGS 425

QUICK WHITE FUDGE ICING II

Fondant at 100% PROCEDURE
Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Warm the fondant to 95°F (35°C).
Fondant 1 lb 4 oz 500 g 100 2. Combine the fondant, corn syrup, butter,
shortening, and salt in the bowl of a mixer.
Corn syrup 2 oz 50 mL 10
Blend with the paddle attachment until
Butter, softened 2 oz 50 g 10 smooth.
Emulsified 3 oz 75 g 15 3. Blend in the desired flavoring (see below).
shortening
4. Thin to spreading consistency with
Salt 0.12 oz 3g 0.6 appropriate liquid (see below).

Flavoring (see FLAVORING VARIATIONS

procedure) Add desired flavoring to taste, such as vanilla,
Liquid, to thin (see almond, maple, lemon, or orange (extract,
procedure) emulsion, or grated zest), or instant coffee
dissolved in water. Crushed fruit, such as
Total weight: 1 lb 11 oz 678 g 135 % pineapple, strawberries, or ground
or more or more or more maraschino cherries, may be used.
For chocolate icing, add 6 oz (180 g) melted
unsweetened chocolate.

LIQUIDS FOR ADJUSTING CONSISTENCY

With fruit flavorings such as orange or lemon,
use lemon juice and/or orange juice. With
other flavors, use simple syrup or evaporated
milk.

Flat Icings
Flat icings, also called water icings, are simply mixtures of confectioners’ sugar and water, some-
times with corn syrup and flavoring added. They are used mostly for coffee cakes, Danish pastry,
and sweet rolls.
Flat icings are warmed to 100°F (38°C) for application and are handled like poured fondant.

FLAT ICING
For large-quantity measurements, see page 729.

Sugar at 100% PROCEDURE

Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Mix all ingredients together until smooth.
Confectioners’ sugar 1 lb 500 g 100 2. To use, place the desired amount in a
double boiler. Warm to 100°F (38°C) and
Water, hot 3 oz 90 mL 19
then apply to the product to be iced.
Corn syrup 1 oz 30 g 6
Vanilla extract 0.12 oz ( ⁄4 tsp)
3
4g 0.8

Total weight: 1 lb 4 oz 624 g 125 %

Royal Icing
Royal icing, also called decorating or decorator’s icing, is similar to flat icings except it is much
thicker and made with egg whites, which make it hard and brittle when dry. It is used almost exclu-
sively for decorative work. Pure white royal icing is most often used, but it may also be colored as
desired. Because it consists mostly of confectioners’ sugar, it is sweet but has little taste.
426 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

Royal icing dries easily and quickly, which makes it useful for fine decorations; but it also
requires special handling and storage. Cover it tightly whenever it is not in use. For even greater
protection from drying, place a clean, damp towel on the surface of the icing, and then cover the
container tightly with plastic film. If any icing dries or crusts on the sides of the container during
storage, remove the dried sections carefully, so that it does not fall back into the moist icing.
Dried particles can clog the tips of paper cones and writing tubes.
Using a paper cone or, even better, a pastry bag fitted with a writing tip (a pastry tip with a
small, round opening), royal icing can be piped into designs onto parchment or plastic and
allowed to dry. They can then be lifted off carefully and stored in airtight containers for later use.
See pages 436–437 for a discussion of using the paper cone.
A second use for royal icing is called string work, in which delicate strands or filaments of
icing are suspended between two attachment points, as illustrated in the decoration of the pastil-
lage showpiece on page 655. This technique is also used on some styles of wedding cakes. To
produce string work, touch the tip of the paper cone to the first attachment point, then pull the
bag away while squeezing the cone with constant pressure. Allow the loop to drop to the desired
length, then touch the tip to the second attachment point.
A third use of royal icing is flooding outlined areas of a design with colored icing. This tech-
nique requires much thinner icing than that used for string work. Thin the icing with water until a
teaspoonful dropped into the bowl of icing flattens to a smooth surface in about 10 seconds. The
first step in flooding is to draw an outline using medium-stiff royal icing, either white or colored,
as desired. Pipe the outline on the desired surface, such as a sheet of acetate. Allow the outline to
dry at least until the surface of the icing is firm. Using a pastry bag with a small (No. 2) plain tip,
pipe thinned icing, colored as desired, in a line next to but not touching the inside of the dried
outline. The icing should be thin enough to flow up to the outline. Continue to pipe along the
inside edge of the icing until the area is filled with a smooth layer of icing. When dry, the design
can be lifted off and placed on the surface of a cake.
As you can see, the correct consistency or thickness of royal icing depends on its use. Piped
designs and string work require fairly thick icing, while flood work requires a thinner product. For
this reason, many pastry chefs do not use a recipe for royal icing but prepare small batches as
needed, using the Procedure for Preparing Royal Icing, below. For those who prefer working with
a recipe, one is provided.

PROCEDURE: Preparing Royal Icing

1. Place desired amount of confectioners’ sugar in a 2. Beat in egg whites (pasteurized), a little at a time, until
mixing bowl. Add a small quantity of cream of tartar the sugar forms a smooth paste. You will need 2 to 3 oz
(for whiteness), about 1⁄8 tsp per pound of sugar egg whites per pound of sugar (125 g per kilogram).
(0.6 g per kilogram). 3. Keep unused icing covered with a damp cloth or plastic
film at all times to prevent hardening.

ROYAL ICING
Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE
1. Sift the sugar and cream of tartar into the bowl of
Confectioners’ sugar 1 lb 500 g
a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.
Cream of tartar ⁄8 tsp
1
0.3 g (0.5 mL)
2. In a small bowl, beat the egg whites briefly, to
Egg whites, pasteurized 3 oz 95 g break them up.
(see Note)
3. With the mixer running on low speed, gradually
Total weight: 1 lb 3 oz 595 g add the egg whites.
4. Continue to mix until the ingredients are well
NOTE: Vary the quantity of egg whites depending on the consistency desired. blended and the icing stands in soft peaks.
 PREPARING ICINGS 427

Glazes
Glazes are thin, glossy, transparent coatings that give a shine to baked products and help pre-
vent drying.
The simplest glaze is a sugar syrup or diluted corn syrup brushed while hot onto coffee cakes
or Danish pastries (see p. 190 for recipe). Syrup glazes may also contain gelatin or waxy maize
starch.
Fruit glazes for pastries, the most popular of which are apricot and red currant, are available
commercially prepared. They are melted, thinned with a little water, syrup, or liquor, and brushed
on while hot. Fruit glazes may also be made by melting apricot or other preserves and forcing
them through a strainer. It helps to add melted, strained preserves to commercial glazes because
these products usually have little flavor.
The glaze recipes included in this chapter are of two types: chocolate and gelatin-based.
Chocolate glazes are usually melted chocolate containing additional fats or liquids, or both. They
are applied warm and set up to form a thin, shiny coating. Gelatin-based glazes, which include
many fruit glazes, are usually applied only to the tops of cakes and charlottes made in ring molds.
There are several recipes in this chapter, and Chapter 19 contains examples of products finished
with gelatin-based glazes.

CHOCOLATE GLAÇAGE OR SACHER GLAZE

Chocolate at 100% PROCEDURE
Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Prepare a ganache (p. 272) with the
cream and chocolate: Heat the cream to
Heavy cream 6 oz 150 g 100
boiling and pour over the finely chopped
Semisweet or bittersweet 6 oz 150 g 100 chocolate. Stir until the chocolate is
chocolate, chopped melted and the mixture is uniformly
Butter 2 oz 50 g 33 blended.
2. Add the butter and stir to mix in. Use as
Total weight: 14 oz 350 g 233%
soon as possible.

GANACHE ICING (GANACHE À GLACER)

Chocolate at 100% PROCEDURE
Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Heat the cream, sugar, and glucose to the
boiling point. Remove from the heat.
Heavy cream 10 oz 250 g 100
2. Finely chop the chocolate and place in a
Sugar 2 oz 50 g 20
bowl.
Glucose 2 oz 50 g 20
3. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate.
Semisweet or bittersweet 10 oz 250 g 100 Stir until the chocolate is melted and well
chocolate couverture blended with the cream.
Total weight: 1 lb 8 oz 600 g 240% 4. Allow to cool slightly before use. This
makes a thin, shiny coating when poured
over cakes and charlottes.
428 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

OPERA GLAZE
For large-quantity measurements, see page 729.

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Melt both chocolates in a hot-water bath.
Coating chocolate (see p. 86) 8 oz 250 g
2. Stir in the oil.
Semisweet or bittersweet 3.5 oz 100 g
chocolate couverture 3. Allow to cool slightly before use. Makes a
thin coating that sets solid but can be cut
Peanut oil 1.33 oz 40 g
with a hot knife.
Total weight: 12 oz 390 g

VA R I AT I O N
If couverture is used alone instead of part coating chocolate and part couverture,
increase the quantity of oil so the icing has the proper texture and can be cut
easily with a cake knife.
For large-quantity measurements, see page 729.

Ingredients U.S. Metric

Dark chocolate couverture 11.5 oz 350 g
Peanut oil 2 oz 60 g

FRUIT GLAÇAGE
Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE
1. Soften the gelatin in cold water (see
Gelatin 0.5 oz 12 g
pp. 80–82).
Sugar 3 oz 90 g
2. Heat the sugar, water, and glucose until
Water 2 oz 60 g dissolved. Remove from the heat and stir
Glucose 1 oz 30 g in the gelatin until dissolved.
3. Add the fruit purée.
Fruit purée 5 oz 150 g
4. Strain through a chinois or fine strainer.
Total weight: 11 oz 342 g 5. To use, rewarm if necessary. Pour over the
top of a cake or charlotte and, with a
VA R I AT I O N palette knife, quickly spread to the edges
of the cake. One small batch makes
Two charlottes in this book, Passion Fruit Charlotte (p. 533) and Charlotte au
enough glaze for a 7- or 8-in. (18–20-cm)
Cassis (p. 533), use fruit glaçage. Passion fruit purée or juice and blackcurrant or
cake.
cassis purée, respectively, are used to make the glaçage. For other uses, most
fruit purées can be used.
 PREPARING ICINGS 429

COCOA JELLY
For large-quantity measurements, see page 729.

Fondant at 100% PROCEDURE

Ingredients U.S. Metric %
1. Combine the water, fondant, and glucose.
Water 4 oz 100 g 67 Bring to a boil and skim if necessary.
Fondant 6 oz 150 g 100 2. Soften the gelatin in cold water
Glucose 1 oz 25 g 17 (see pp. 80–82).
3. Add the gelatin and cocoa powder to the
Gelatin 0.25 oz 7g 4.7 hot fondant mixture. Mix quickly and strain
Cocoa powder 1.2 oz (6 tbsp) 30 g 20.8 through a chinois or fine strainer.
4. This mixture is ready to use once the
Total weight: 12 oz 312 g 209 % temperature has dropped to 95°F (35°C).

COFFEE MARBLE GLAZE

Yield: about 11 oz (350 g) For large-quantity measurements, see page 729.

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Soften the gelatin in cold water (see
Gelatin 0.33 oz 8g
pp. 80–82).
Water 8 oz 250 g
2. Simmer the water, sugar, glucose, and
Sugar 1.33 oz 40 g vanilla bean until the sugar and glucose
Glucose 1.33 oz 40 g are completely dissolved.
3. Remove from the heat, cool slightly, and
Vanilla bean, split (see Note) 1 1 add the gelatin. Stir until dissolved.
Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean
Coffee liqueur 4 tsp 20 g and add to the syrup.
Coffee extract 2 tsp 10 g 4. When ready to use, rewarm the glaze if
necessary. Add the coffee liqueur and
NOTE: If vanilla beans are not available, add ⁄2 tsp vanilla extract.
1
extract and swirl them in slightly; do not
mix them in. Swirl the glaze over the
surface of the cake so the coffee extract
gives a marbled effect (see the photo of
Julianna on p. 466).

Rolled Coatings
The three commonly used rolled cake coatings are rolled fondant, marzipan, and modeling choc- KEY POINTS TO REVIEW
olate. Rather than being applied by spreading or pouring like the other products discussed in this
chapter, these are rolled into thin sheets, using a rolling pin, and draped over the cake to cover it. ❚ What are the eight basic
To ensure the coating adheres to the cake, the cake is first brushed with apricot glaze (p. 194) or a types of icings and cake
coatings?
similar product, or iced with a thin layer of buttercream before the rolled coating is applied.
Marzipan is a paste made of ground almonds and sugar. Preparation and use of marzipan is ❚ What is the procedure for
discussed in Chapter 24. using fondant?
Rolled fondant is a doughlike product consisting primarily of confectioner’s sugar com- ❚ What are the basic types of
bined with small quantities of glucose, water, gelatin, and other ingredients to give it the proper buttercream? Describe how
consistency. It is firm and stiff enough to be kneaded, and pliable enough to be rolled out in thin they are made.
sheets. Like poured fondant, it is almost always purchased ready-prepared. ❚ What are foam icings?
Modeling chocolate is a stiff paste made of melted chocolate and corn syrup. It is discussed ❚ How is royal icing made?
in Chapter 23. What is it used for?
Guidelines for applying rolled coatings are discussed on pages 447–448.
430 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

ASSEMBLING AND ICING SIMPLE CAKES

THIS SECTION DEALS with simple North American-style cakes. Typical examples of this type are
cupcakes, sheet cakes, and layer cakes made of two or three high-ratio or butter-cake layers.
These are popular items in bakeshops and are standard desserts in many food service operations.
They may be iced but otherwise undecorated, or they may be given some decorative touches.
In contrast, the typical European-style cake is a sponge cake, split into thin layers, moistened
with flavored syrup, filled and iced, and frequently set on a base of baked meringue, japonaise, or
short dough. It is sometimes filled with fruit between the layers, and is almost always decorated
on top. It is usually less than 3 inches (7.5 cm) tall, and has a broad flat top that serves as an excel-
lent canvas for pastry chefs to display their decorating skills.
This section focuses on the basic skills needed to assemble and ice simple North American-
style cakes, with basic decorating techniques discussed in the next section. After mastering these
techniques, you are then introduced to more complex cakes in the last sections of the chapter.

Planning the Cake

Most cakes have up to four components:

• Cake
• Icing
• Filling
• Décor
The simplest cakes have only the first two of these components: cake and icing. For example,
the simplest sheet cake consists of only a single layer of cake topped by a single layer of icing.
Simple layer cakes have two or three layers of cake, with icing between the layers and the same
icing on the top and sides.
In a slightly more complex cake, the filling between the layers may be different from the icing
on the outside of the cake.
Finally, a cake may be decorated with additional elements as décor, such as fruit and nuts.
When planning a cake, a pastry chef must consider the characteristics of each of these four
components in order to produce an appealing and attractive cake. In particular, the chef should
take into account the following characteristics:
• Flavor
• Color
• Texture
• Shape

Cake layers, icings, and fillings come in an endless variety of flavors, colors, and textures. The
fourth characteristic, shape, applies primarily to the cake layers (round, rectangular, novelty cut-
out) and to the décor elements.
When matching flavors and textures of cake, icing, and filling, select combinations that com-
plement each other (such as chocolate icing and chocolate cake) or that make a pleasing contrast
(such as raspberry filling in chocolate cake).

Selection of Icing
The flavor, texture, and color of the icing must be compatible with the cake. In general, use heavy
frostings with heavy cakes and light frostings with light cakes. For example, ice angel food cakes
with a simple flat icing, fondant, or a light, fluffy, boiled icing. High-ratio cakes go well with but-
tercreams and fudge-type icings. Sponge layer cakes are often combined with fruits or fruit fill-
ings, light French or Italian buttercreams, whipped cream, or flavored fondants.
Because heavier icings are usually richer in texture and more intense in flavor, they are applied
in thinner layers than lighter icings. The icing should not overpower or overwhelm the cake.
 ASSEMBLING AND ICING SIMPLE CAKES 431

Use the best-quality flavorings, and use them sparingly. The flavor of the frosting should not
be stronger than that of the cake. Fudge-type icings may be flavored most strongly, as long as the
flavor is of good quality.
Use colors carefully. For traditional cakes, use colors sparingly. Light pastel shades are more
appetizing than strong colors. Modern taste in cakes, however, runs more to strong colors.
Consider your audience when planning use of colors. Paste colors give the best results. To use
either paste or liquid colors, mix a little color with a small portion of the icing, then use this icing
to color the rest.

Selection of Décor
Elements of cake decoration fall into two general categories: piped icing decoration and addi-
tional décor items. Both these categories serve several functions, adding eye appeal as well as
flavor and textural interest. All of these should be taken into consideration when planning cakes.
Flavor, color, texture, and shape of décor should be appropriate to the cake.
The list of cake décor items is nearly limitless. Popular categories of décor include fruits,
nuts, crisp meringue, chocolate décor (see Chapter 23); pastillage, pulled sugar flowers and other
items (Chapters 24 and 25); and candies and confections, either made in-house or commercially
made.

Sheet Cakes
Sheet cakes are ideal for volume service because they require little labor to bake, ice, and deco-
rate, and they keep well as long as they remain uncut.
For special occasions, sheet cakes are sometimes decorated as a single unit with a
design or picture in colored icing, and a “Happy Special Occasion” message. It is more com-
mon, however, to ice them for individual service, as in the Procedure for Icing Sheet Cakes on
page 433.

Cupcakes
There are three main methods for icing cupcakes. The first of these, dipping, is used for soft icings.
The other methods are used when the icing is too stiff for dipping.
Before icing the top of the cupcake, you might want to inject a filling into the cake to make a
specialty product. To fill a cupcake with a light buttercream or other cream filling, use a pastry
bag fitted with a small, plain tip. Pierce the top center of the cupcake so that the tip is about an
inch deep in the cake. Squeeze gently to force about 1⁄2 to 3⁄4 fl oz (15–22 mL) filling into the center.
To ice the top of the cupcake, use one of these three methods:
1. Dip the tops of the cupcakes in the icing. Do not dip them too deeply; only the tops should
touch the icing.
• If the icing is reasonably stiff, not flowing, twist the cakes slightly and pull them out quickly
in one smooth motion.
• If the icing is flowing (such as flat icing or fondant), pull the cakes straight out of the icing.
Hold them sideways for a moment so the icing runs to one edge. Then turn them upright
and wipe the icing from the edge of the cakes with your finger. Do not let icing run down
the sides.
2. Spread the icing with a spatula. Take enough icing for one cake on the tip of a bowl knife and
cover the top of the cake in a single smooth, neat motion, twisting the cake in one hand.
Practice is necessary to develop speed and efficiency.
3. With a pastry bag fitted with a star or plain tube, apply a swirl of icing to each cake. This is
perhaps the most popular method for modern cupcakes. It makes it possible to apply a gen-
erous quantity of icing to the cupcake—a style favored by consumers.
Before the icing dries, cupcakes may be decorated with glazed fruit, coconut, nuts, colored
sugar, chocolate sprinkles, and so on.
432 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

Layer Cakes
A basic method for assembling and icing simple layer cakes is explained in detail in the Procedure
for Assembling Simple Layer Cakes, which follows. This is the simplest and most direct way of
icing a layer cake. In addition, two other icing techniques should be mentioned here: applying a
thin masking layer of icing and applying glaze.

PROCEDURE: Assembling Simple Layer Cakes

This is the basic procedure for assembling popular to avoid spilling the filling over the edge is to pipe a row
American-style layer cakes made with high-fat (that is, of the icing used for the cake sides around the edge of
creaming method, two-stage, and one-stage method) the cake layer to form a barrier to hold the filling inside.
batters. Layered sponge cakes are assembled slightly Use the proper amount of filling. If applied too heavily,
differently, as shown on page 443. filling will ooze out when top layer is put in place.
1. Assemble all tools and equipment and have them 7. Place the top layer on the bottom layer, right side up.
ready.
8. Optional step: Apply a masking layer of icing, as
2. Have all ingredients prepared and at the proper described in the next section.
temperature. Cool cake layers completely before
9. Ice the cake:
assembling and icing. Icings and fillings should be
spreadable and at the correct temperature. a. If a thin or light icing is used, pour or spread the icing
onto the center of the cake. Then spread it to the
3. Trim cake layers, if necessary. Remove any ragged edges.
edges and down the sides with a spatula.
Slightly rounded tops are easily covered by icing, but
excessively large bumps may have to be cut off. b. If a heavy icing is used, it may be necessary to spread
the sides first, then place a good quantity of icing
If desired, split layers in half horizontally. This makes the
in the center of the top and push it to the edges with
cake higher and increases the proportion of filling to
the spatula.
cake (see p. 443).
Steps 6–9 on page 443 illustrate how to ice the cake.
4. Brush all crumbs from cakes. Loose crumbs make icing
Pushing the icing, rather than pulling or dragging it with
difficult.
the spatula, prevents pulling up crumbs and getting them
5. Place the bottom layer upside down (to give a flat mixed with the icing.
surface for the filling) on a cardboard cake circle of the Use enough icing to cover the entire cake generously,
same diameter. Place the cake in the center of a cake but not excessively, with an even layer.
turntable. If a cake circle or turntable is not available, Smooth the icing with the spatula, or leave it textured or
place the cake on a serving plate; slip sheets of wax swirled, as desired.
paper or parchment under the edges of the cake to keep An alternative way to apply icing is to pipe it on using an
the plate clean. oversize basketweave tip, sometimes called a speed icer, in a
6. Spread filling on the bottom layer, out to the edges. If pastry bag.
the filling is different from the outside frosting, be The finished, iced cake should have a perfectly level top
careful not to spread the filling over the edges. One way and perfectly straight, even sides.

Applying a Masking Layer

As an alternative to applying the finishing directly to the cake, it is often useful to add an interme-
diate step. Apply a thin coating of icing to the cake, using the technique given in the basic proce-
dure but making only a thin layer. This optional step has three advantages:
1. The masking layer locks in any loose crumbs that might otherwise get mixed with the final
icing and mar its appearance. The finish coat of icing is then easier to apply. For this reason,
a masking layer is sometimes called a crumb coat.
2. The masking layer protects from drying when longer storage is needed. A pastry chef might
want to mask a number of cakes and then store them for later icing and decoration. This
enables a more flexible production schedule.
3. The masking layer can be used to even out any irregularities in the cake. For example, if the
top layer is domed in the center, the masking layer can be used to level the top so that it is
flat. The masked cake should have perfectly smooth, even sides and a smooth, level top.
After applying the masking layer, refrigerate the cake long enough for the surface to become
firm before applying the final coat of icing.
 ASSEMBLING AND ICING SIMPLE CAKES 433

Applying Glaze
Unlike regular spreadable icings such as buttercream, glazes (p. 427) are applied by pouring them
over the cake. A masking coat of icing is always applied if the cake is to be finished with a glaze
rather than a spread icing. A detailed Procedure for Applying Glaze can be found on page 447.

PROCEDURE: Icing Sheet Cakes

1. Turn out the cake onto a cake board or the bottom of 6. Using a paper cone or pastry bag fitted with a star
another sheet pan or tray, as described on page 389. tube, pipe a rosette or swirl onto the center of each
Cool the cake thoroughly. marked-off portion. (If you prefer, select another
2. Trim the edges evenly with a serrated knife. kind of decoration.) Whatever decorations you use,
keep them simple, and make them the same for every
3. Brush all crumbs from the cake.
portion.
4. Place a quantity of icing in the center of the cake and,
7. Cut portions as close as possible to service time to keep
with a spatula, push the icing to the edges. Smooth the
the cake from drying.
top with the spatula, giving the entire cake an even layer
of icing.
5. With a long knife or spatula, mark the entire cake into Cake-cutting guides for sheet cakes and round layer cakes.
portions by pressing the back of the knife lightly into the For half-size sheets (13 × 18 in./33 × 46 cm), simply halve
icing. Do not cut the cake. the diagrams for full-size sheet cakes below.

6 × 8 = 48 portions 8 × 8 = 64 portions 8 × 12 = 96 portions

Specialty Items
A number of popular cake items don’t fit in the categories just described—layer cake, sheet cake,
or cupcake. We discuss those here.

Boston Cream Pie

Boston cream pie is not a pie at all but a simple layer cake. Bake sponge cake in standard layer
pans or pie tins. When cool, split each cake into two layers. Fill with Pastry Cream (p. 263) and ice
the tops with chocolate fondant, or sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar.

Cake Rolls
Besides jelly rolls (p. 402), sponge rolls can be made with a variety of fillings, such as whipped
cream, vanilla or chocolate boiled icing, marshmallow icing, or buttercream. Cake rolls are dis-
cussed in more detail in the section on European-style cakes (p. 469).

Ice Cream Cakes

Ice cream may be used in place of icing to fill layer cakes or cake rolls. If the bakeshop is cool, or if
you have a walk-in refrigerator to work in, you can spread slightly softened ice cream on the layers
or inside the rolls. Round cakes are best assembled inside cake rings lined with acetate (pp. 50–51).
If the temperature is warm, however, it is better to cut slices of hard-frozen ice cream to fill the
cakes. Work quickly; do not allow the ice cream to melt and drip out of the cake.
434 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

As soon as the layers are stacked or the rolls are tightly rolled, return them to the freezer until
they are firm. Then quickly frost the tops and sides with whipped cream. Store in the freezer
until needed.

French Pastry
In parts of North America, the term French pastry is used to refer to a wide range of decorated
pastry and cake products usually made in single-portion pieces. The simplest of the cake-based
varieties are tiny decorated layer cakes made in a variety of shapes. They are assembled as
follows:
1. Using thin (1⁄2–3⁄4-in./1–2-cm) sheet cakes, stack two or three sheets with filling or icing
between them. The filled cake layers together should be about 11⁄2–2 in. (4–5 cm) thick.
Buttercream is the most popular filling. Fruit jams and fudge icings may also be
KEY POINTS TO REVIEW used.
2. Press the layers together firmly and chill or freeze.
❚ What are the four possible
components of a simple 3. Using a sharp knife dipped in hot water before each cut, cut the sheet into desired shapes,
cake? such as squares, rectangles, or triangles. Circles may be cut out using large cutters. Pieces
❚ What are the steps in the should be the size of a single portion.
procedure for assembling 4. Ice the sides and top of each piece with buttercream or fondant. After icing, sides may be
and icing simple layer cakes? coated with chopped nuts, coconut, chocolate sprinkles, and so on.
❚ How are sheet cakes and 5. Decorate the tops neatly.
cupcakes iced?
French pastries are discussed further in the section on European-style cakes (pp. 471–472).

B A S I C D E C O R AT I N G T E C H N I Q U E S
A NUMBER OF essential decorating techniques are discussed in this section. Of these, perhaps
the most difficult to learn are the ones using the pastry bag and paper cone. Others take less
practice to master, but do require a steady hand, neatness, and a strong sense of symmetry.

Tools
You will need the following tools for assembling and decorating cakes:
Palette knife or steel spatula. A spatula with a long, flexible blade for spreading and
smoothing icings and fillings.
Palette knife. Offset palette knife. A palette knife with an
angled blade for spreading batters and creams
Offset palette knife.
inside pans.
Serrated knife. A scalloped-edge knife for cutting cakes and splitting cake layers
Serrated knife. horizontally into thinner layers.

Icing screens, or grates. Open-mesh screens for

holding cakes being iced with a flow-type icing
such as fondant. Excess icing drips off the cake
and is collected on a tray under the rack.

Turntable. A pedestal with a flat, rotating top,

to simplify the process of icing cakes. Icing screen.
Icing comb. A plastic triangle with toothed or serrated edges used for applying a grooved or
ridged pattern to the sides of iced cakes. The edge of the comb is held stationary in a vertical
position against one side of the cake while the turntable is rotated.
 BASIC DECORATING TECHNIQUES 435

Plastic or steel scraper. A tool with a flat edge for making the icing on the sides of cake
perfectly smooth. The technique is the same as that for working with the icing comb (see
preceding page).
Pastry brushes. Used to remove crumbs from a cake, apply dessert syrups to sponge
cake layers, and glaze the surfaces of cakes with apricot glaze and other coatings.

Sugar dredger. Resembling a large metal saltshaker, a dredger is used to dust cakes with
confectioners’ sugar.
Cake rings or charlotte rings. Stainless steel rings of varying diameters and heights. Cakes Pastry brushes.
are assembled inside these rings when they include soft fillings, such as Bavarian creams
and other gelatin-based fillings, that must be held in place while the filling sets. Also used for
charlottes (Chapter 19).
Cake cards and doilies. Layer cakes are placed on cardboard circles (same diameter as the
cake) when being assembled. Sheet cakes are placed on half- or full-size cardboard cake
boards. This makes them easy to ice and to move after icing. For easy, attractive display,
place a paper doily 4 inches (10 cm) larger than the cake on a cake card 2 inches (5 cm) larger
than the cake. For example, to assemble, ice, and display a 10-inch cake, use a 10-inch circle,
a 12-inch circle, and a 14-inch doily.
Parchment paper. For making paper cones.
Pastry bag and tips. For making borders, inscriptions, flowers, and other designs out of
icing. The basic tips are described below. Sugar dredger.

Plain (round) tips: For writing words Rose tip: For making flower petals. Ribbon or basketweave tips: For
and drawing lines, beads, dots, and so These tips have a slit-shaped opening making smooth or ridged stripes or
forth. Also used to pipe sponge batters, that is wider at one end than the other. ribbons. These have a slit opening that
creams, and choux paste, and to fill is ridged on one side.
choux pastries and other items.

Leaf tips: For making leaves.

St-Honoré tip: For filling gâteaux
Star tips: For making rosettes, shells, St-Honoré (p. 360). This tip has a round
stars, and borders. opening with a V-shaped slit on one
side.

Many other specialized tips are used for unusual shapes. However, the plain and star tips are
by far the most important. The beginner is advised to concentrate on these at first. They make a
wide variety of decorations. With the exception of roses and other flowers, the majority of cake
decorations are made using the plain and star tips.
The usual way of using a pastry tip is simply to fit it inside the pastry bag. When you need to
use more than one tip with the same icing, you must use a separate bag for each one or empty the
bag to change the tip. However, special couplers are available that allow you to attach the tip to
the outside of the bag. It is then a simple matter to change tips even when the pastry bag is full of
icing.
436 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

Using the Paper Cone

The paper cone is widely used in decorative work. It is inexpensive, easy to make, and can simply
be discarded after use. It is especially valuable if you are working with different colors;
simply make a separate cone for each color icing.
Although it is possible to fit metal decorating tubes inside paper cones, the cones are usually
used without metal tubes for writing inscriptions and for making line drawings and patterns. In
other words, they are used the same way you would use a pastry bag fitted with a small plain
tube. Because paper cones can be made rather small and are easy to control, pastry chefs gener-
ally prefer them to pastry bags when they are doing delicate work. For the most delicate work,
a special type of plastic or cellophane is available that makes finer lines than paper because a
smaller, cleaner opening can be cut on the tip.
Two factors are important to be successful using both the paper cone and the pastry bag:
1. Consistency of the icing. Icing must be neither too thick nor too thin. With the paper cone
or the writing tube, the icing must be thin enough to flow freely from the opening, but not
too thin to form a solid thread. Stiff icing is difficult to force through the opening and tends
to break off. For flowers and large decorations, however, the icing must be stiffer so the items
hold their shapes.
2. Pressure on the cone or bag. Pressure control is necessary to make neat, precise
decorations. As described below, sometimes you must keep the pressure steady and
even. For other types of decorations, such as shell borders, you must vary the pressure
from heavy to light, and then stop the pressure at the right moment. Learning to control
the pressure with which you squeeze the decorator’s cone or pastry bag takes a lot
of practice.
Two methods are used to make decorations: the drop-string method and the contact
method.
The drop-string method, also known as the falling method, is so called because the cone is
held above the surface and the icing is allowed to fall or drop from the tip of the cone onto the
surface being decorated. This method is used to make lines of even thickness on horizontal sur-
faces. Much, if not most, paper cone work is done this way, generally with royal icing, fondant,
chocolate fondant, melted chocolate, or piping chocolate (p. 637).
To use the drop-string method, begin by holding the cone vertically. Touch the tip of
the cone to the surface to attach the icing to the point where you want the line to start. Then,
as you begin to squeeze the cone, lift the tip of the cone from the surface and start your
line. Hold the cone about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the surface as you trace your pattern. The
thread of icing will be suspended in air between the tip of the cone and the surface being
decorated. Keep the pressure light and constant. To finish a line, lower the tip of the cone and
touch the surface at the point where you want the line to end. At the same time, stop squeez-
ing the cone.
The drop-string method allows you to make fine, delicate lines and patterns while keeping
the thickness of the line perfectly even. Make sure the opening in the tip of the cone is cut quite
small. At first, it may seem difficult to control the line while holding the cone an inch above the
surface, but with practice, you will be able to make precise patterns.
The contact method is used in two situations: (1) when you want to vary the thickness of the
line, and (2) when you want to decorate a vertical surface, such as the side of a cake.
For the contact method, begin by holding the cone as you would a pen, with the tip in con-
tact with the surface and at an angle of about 30 to 45 degrees. Draw lines as though you were
drawing on paper with a pen. Control the thickness of the line by adjusting the pressure of your
thumb. Squeezing harder makes a thicker line.
Normally, it is best to work with the drop-string method first, until you are able to make
simple lines and patterns easily. Then, when you move to the contact method, you can concen-
trate on controlling pressure. In addition to royal icing, fondant, and chocolate, buttercream is
also used for decorating with the contact method.
Note: The instructions that follow for using the cone and pastry bag are written for right-
handed people. If you are left-handed, simply reverse the hands in the instructions.
 BASIC DECORATING TECHNIQUES 437

PROCEDURE: Decorating with a Paper Cone

1. Make the paper cone, as shown. 5. Hold the top end of the cone between your thumb and
2. Fill the cone about half full with icing. If the cone is too the first two fingers of your right hand. Position your
full, it is harder to squeeze, and icing is likely to come out fingers so they can hold the folded end closed and at the
the top. same time apply pressure to squeeze the icing from the
cone.
3. Fold down the top of the cone to close the open end.
6. Do not squeeze the cone with your left hand. Instead,
4. With scissors, cut off a very small piece of the tip
lightly hold the index finger of your left hand against the
of the cone. (Be sure to discard the tiny paper tip
thumb of your right hand or against the cone, in order to
immediately, or it may get mixed in with the icing.) It is
steady your right hand and help guide it.
better to make the opening too small than too large.
Squeeze out a little of the icing to test the cone. If 7. Use either the contact method or the drop-string
necessary, cut off a little more of the tip to enlarge the method (discussed on p. 436) to create different types of
opening. decorations and inscriptions.

Make a single cone out of a small triangle of parchment For a sturdier double cone, cut a longer triangle. Start as
paper. Hold the cone with the fingertip in the center of for a single cone.
the long side and curl one side.

Curl the other side around to complete the cone.

Twist the long end around twice to complete the cone.

Fold over the peak at the open end of the cone to secure it. Complete single and double cones. (continues)
438 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

(continued)

Note how the tip of the cone is held above the

surface, allowing the icing to drop into place.

Paper-cone designs made by the contact method.

An assortment of borders made with the paper

cone.

Using the Pastry Bag

An advantage of the pastry bag is that it makes it easy to use many different metal tips to create a
wide variety of designs. Also, a pastry bag holds more icing than a paper cone. This is important
when you are decorating with whipped cream or meringue. Buttercream flowers, shell borders,
and many other decorations are made with the pastry bag.
Most pastry bags are made of one of the following four materials:
• Disposable plastic bags are designed to be thrown away after use. As a result, they are
hygienic.
• Reusable plastic bags are made of a soft, reinforced plastic, making them durable and easy
to use. Also, they do not easily absorb odors and flavors. However, they must be thoroughly
cleaned after use.
• Nylon bags are soft and flexible. They, too, must be cleaned thoroughly after use, but because
they are made of a synthetic fabric, they are easier to clean than cotton.
• Cotton is the traditional material for pastry bags, but because it is highly absorbent, bags
made with cotton are harder to clean. It is important to wash them well and sterilize them
after each use.
 BASIC DECORATING TECHNIQUES 439

PROCEDURE: Filling and Using a Pastry Bag

1. Fit the desired metal tip into the pastry bag.

2. If the filling or icing is thin, twist the bag just above the
tip and force it into the tip. This prevents the filling from
running out of the bag while the bag is being filled.

Piping basic shells and shell borders.

3. Turn down the top of the bag into a sort of collar. Slip
your hand under this collar and hold the top open with
your thumb and forefinger.

Simple bulbs, bead borders, and rosettes.

4. Fill the bag half to three-quarters full. Remember that

stiff icings are relatively hard to force from the bag, so fill
the bag less when you are working with these. With
meringue and whipped cream, the bag can be fuller.
5. Turn up the top of the bag again. Gather the loose top
together and hold it shut with the thumb and forefinger
of your right hand.
6. To force out the icing or cream, squeeze the top of the
bag in the palm of your right hand. Scrolls and borders made with a star tip.
7. Use the fingers of your left hand to lightly guide the tip of
the bag, not to squeeze the bottom of the bag. The left
hand is sometimes used to hold the item being filled or
decorated.

Additional scrolls and borders made with a star tip;

plus, at the bottom, an example of piping using a
St-Honoré tip.
440 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

Other Decorating Techniques

There are many dozens of techniques for decorating cakes. In this section, we describe some of
the simpler, more commonly used ones. Later in this chapter and in the accompanying illustra-
tions, you will see examples of these and other techniques.
Examples of marbled A popular way of organizing the decoration of a round cake is to divide the cake into portions
icing patterns. by marking the icing on top with the back of a long knife: First mark the cake in quarters. Then
divide each quarter in half, thirds, or fourths, depending on the size of the cake and the number
of pieces desired. Decorate the cake in a repetitive pattern so each slice has the same decora-
tions. For example, you might decorate a Black Forest Torte (p. 451) with a rosette of cream at the
wide end of each wedge, then place a cherry on each rosette.
The advantages of marking the cake into wedges are that it enables portion control and
ensures that each piece is decorated equally. Thus, this approach is often used in restaurants and
in retail shops that sell cakes by the slice. Each slice, when cut and served, retains an attractive
decoration.

Masking the Sides

This technique (not to be confused with applying a masking layer of icing, as explained on p. 432)
is used to apply a coating of chopped or sliced nuts, coconut, chocolate sprinkles, chocolate
shavings, cake crumbs, or another material to the sides of the cake.
Hold the freshly iced cake (on a cardboard circle) in your left hand over the tray of nuts or
other material. With your right hand, lightly press a handful of the material against the side of the
cake, and let the excess fall back onto the tray. Turn the cake slightly and repeat until the coating
is complete. You can coat the sides completely or just the bottom edge.

Stenciling
You can add designs to a cake by masking part of the top with paper cutouts or paper doilies and
then sprinkling the top of the cake with confectioners’ sugar, cocoa, ground nuts, shaved choco-
late, cake crumbs, praline powder, or another fine material. Alternatively, spray the top of the
cake with a chocolate sprayer, as shown on page 637. Carefully remove the paper pattern to
reveal the design. A simple type of stenciling that is effective on chocolate icings is to lay parallel
strips of paper on the cake and dust with confectioners’ sugar.

Marbling
The marbling technique is most frequently used with fondant.
Ice the top of the cake with fondant, then pipe lines or spirals in fondant of a contrasting
color. Quickly, before the icing sets, draw the back of the knife through the icing to marble it. This
is the same technique used to ice napoleons (p. 324). You can make more elaborate marbled icing
patterns by piping lines, circles, or spirals of a contrasting color fondant onto an iced cake top,
then drawing the back of a knife or spatula across the lines before the icing sets.

Palette Knife Patterns

You can texture icing quickly and easily with a palette knife as soon as the cake is iced. To make a
spiral pattern, leave the cake on the turntable and press the rounded end of the blade lightly into
the icing at the center of the cake. Slowly turn the turntable and, at the same time, gradually draw
the tip of the palette knife to the outer edge of the cake.
If you wish, you can marble this spiral with the edge of the knife the same way you would
marble fondant stripes. Other patterns, such as straight, parallel ridges, can be made with the
palette knife and then marbled.

Piping Jelly
Piping jelly is a transparent, sweet jelly used for decorating cakes. It is available in various
colors and in a clear, colorless form you can color yourself. Piping jelly can be applied directly to
a cake with a paper cone. For example, you can add a touch of color to borders by first decorating
them with one of the designs on page 438 and then filling in some of the small loops with colored
piping jelly.
 BASIC DECORATING TECHNIQUES 441

Another way to use piping jelly is to make jelly transfers. These are colored pictures that are
made ahead of time and applied to cakes as needed. Their advantage is that they can be made
during slack hours and stored until called for.

PROCEDURE: Making Piping Jelly Transfers

1. Trace the desired drawing onto a sheet of tracing paper; 5. Let the jelly dry. This takes 1 day.
or, if you wish, draw a picture freehand. 6. Turn the transfer over and place it, jelly side down, on
2. Turn the drawing over so the tracing is underneath but the iced cake.
can be seen through the paper. (You turn the paper 7. Moisten the back of the paper lightly with a brush
over so the pen or pencil marks don’t come off with dipped in water.
the jelly.)
8. Let the cake and paper stand a few minutes. Then
3. Outline the drawing with brown piping jelly. carefully peel off the paper, leaving the jelly picture on
4. Fill in the outlines with piping jelly of appropriate colors. the cake.

Adding Fruits, Nuts, and Other Items

Arranging fruits, nuts, and other items in an attractive pattern is an easy and effective way to deco-
rate a cake while adding to its flavor and appeal to the customer. This technique is especially
appropriate for cakes marked off into portions, as described at the beginning of this section. Each
portion can be topped with an appropriate item, such as cherries on the Black Forest Torte (p. 451).
Many fresh or juicy fruits should be added as close to service or display time as possible, as
they deteriorate quickly. Fruits in juice or syrup should be drained and dried well before
applying.
Naturally, you should use items appropriate to the flavor of the cake. For example, you might
place candy coffee beans on a mocha cake or mandarin orange segments on an orange-flavored
cake.
Here are several examples of items that can be arranged decoratively on cakes:
• Whole strawberries • Small, crisp meringues
• Sweet cherries • Chocolates, such as chocolate truffles
• Mandarin orange segments • Chocolate curls or other chocolate
• Pineapple wedges decorations.
• Glacéed fruits • Small candies (no hard candies, because a
customer might break a tooth)
• Candied chestnuts
• Marzipan cutouts—cut from colored
• Pecan halves
marzipan (p. 649) rolled out in sheets—and
• Walnut halves marzipan figures.

Decorating Sequence
Although the order in which decorations are placed on the cake depends on the cake and the
baker’s preferences, many pastry chefs prefer the following sequence:
1. Mask the sides of the cake with nuts, crumbs, or other coatings, either before or after deco-
rating. If the top decorations are delicate and might be damaged if the cake is handled, mask
the sides first. However, if you are marbling the top of the cake or using some other tech-
nique that disturbs the icing on the sides of the cake, then mask the sides afterward. KEY POINTS TO REVIEW
2. If the cake is to have an inscription or message, such as a person’s name or a holiday or birth- ❚ What basic tools are needed
day greeting, put this on first. (This guideline does not apply to retail bakeshops that display for decorating cakes?
an array of cakes for their customers to choose from. In such operations, decorate the cake ❚ What is the procedure for
completely, leaving space for the inscription. The customer chooses the cake and indicates decorating with a paper
the inscription, which is then applied by the baker at the time of sale.) cone?
3. Add borders and paper cone designs. ❚ What is the procedure for
filling and using a pastry
4. Add flowers, leaves, and similar decorations made with a pastry bag.
bag?
5. Add additional items such as fruits, nuts, or candies.
442 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

P L A N N I N G A N D A S S E M B L I N G S P E C I A LT Y C A K E S
AS WE HAVE pointed out several times in this book, much of a pastry cook’s job is assembly work.
G ÂT E A U X A N D Starting with basic elements such as creams, fillings, and baked doughs and batters, the pastry
TO R T E N cook builds desserts by putting these elements together in different and attractive ways. This is
especially true of the construction of European-style cakes.
Two words you will see often Although the number of ingredients that may go into a cake is nearly limitless, the most com-
in connection with European- monly used are those listed in the Basic Cake Components section, next. This list is followed, first,
style cakes are gâteau and by a general procedure for assembling a basic European-style cake, and then with more specific
torte. Gâteau is French for procedures for making a number of desserts, most of which are popular classics.
“cake” (the plural is gâteaux; Once you are familiar with the general procedure, you should be able to go beyond the
both singular and plural are examples included here and put together your own cakes. As you do, keep in mind that a cake
pronounced gah-toe). The term that has too many flavors is less pleasing than one with fewer flavors that blend well or have a
is nearly as general as the pleasing contrast. Make sure the flavors you choose for the cake layers, fillings, icings, and syrups
English word cake, as it is used go well together. Texture, too, is an important consideration. A mixture of creamy, crisp, and cake-
to refer to a wide range of like textures is more interesting to the palate than a cake that consists mostly of mousse.
products. For example, Ingredients such as fruits, nuts, nougatine, caramel, chocolate, crisp meringue, and puff pastry
Chapter 15 included recipes for add textural interest.
Gâteau Pithiviers (p. 362), Note that sponge cakes or other egg-foam cakes are almost always the basis of these des-
made of puff pastry and serts. Sponge cakes are sturdy enough to be split into thin layers and to undergo the handling
almond filling, and Gâteau necessary for these constructions. The butter cakes and high-ratio cakes discussed earlier in this
St-Honoré (p. 360), made of chapter are too tender to be handled this way. In addition, they are not able to stand up to the
short dough and éclair paste amount of liquid in some of the fillings used.
and filled with a type of pastry
cream. Gâteaux may also refer Basic Cake Components
to more conventional layer
cakes. Following are some of the more important types of components pastry chefs use to construct
specialty cakes.
The German word torte
(plural torten) is generally Optional bottom layer Baked short dough circle (p. 314)
used to describe layer cakes, Baked meringue or japonaise (pp. 341–342)
but it has many definitions,
which often contradict each Optional cake ring linings (p. 445)
other. According to a British
Cake layers Genoise or other plain sponge (p. 401)
definition, a torte is a sponge
Almond sponge or other nut sponge (pp. 401,
layer cake marked off into
407, 408, 410)
individual wedges that are
individually decorated. An Chocolate sponge (pp. 401, 408, 410)
entirely different definition Additional specialty layers Puff paste disks (pp. 318–321)
says a torte is a cake baked Japonaise or meringue disks (pp. 341–342)
from a batter that contains nuts
and/or crumbs but little or no For moistening and flavoring cake layers Dessert syrup (p. 254)
flour. Yet there are classic
Fillings Jam or jelly (especially apricot and raspberry)
torten that fit neither
Buttercream (pp. 418–422)
definition.
Crème chantilly (p. 257)
Rather than try to decide the Ganache (pp. 272–273)
issue or add to the confusion, Chocolate mousse (p. 273)
we will use the words torte
Pastry cream and variations (pp. 262–263)
and gâteau when they are parts
Bavarian cream (p. 525)
of a generally accepted name
Fruits (fresh, poached, or canned)
of a classic dessert, such as
sachertorte and gâteau Icings and coatings Buttercream (pp. 418–422)
St-Honoré. Poured Fondant (pp. 416–417)
Whipped cream (pp. 255–256)
Marzipan (p. 649)
Glazes (pp. 427–429)
Rolled coatings (p. 429)
 PLANNING AND ASSEMBLING SPECIALTY CAKES 443

Basic Assembly Techniques

This chapter builds on the skills described in the first part of this chapter. If necessary, review the
basic cake assembly and decoration techniques laid out on pages 436–441 before continuing with
the more specialized techniques in this section.
Because there are so many types of specialty cakes, some of which can be quite complex, we
introduce the methods for making them in two stages. The first procedure, below, is for assem-
bling a basic layered sponge cake from baked cake layers and icing. Note that this procedure is
somewhat different from the one used for high-fat cakes, explained on page 432. The most impor-
tant difference is the use of flavored syrups.

PROCEDURE: Assembling a Basic Layered Sponge Cake

1. Trim the edges of the cake as 4. Place one half on a cake card and 7. . . . and sides with the desired icing.
necessary. moisten it with a flavored syrup.

8. Smooth the sides with a plastic

2. Cut a notch in the edge of the cake 5. Applying the filling with a pastry scraper.
so the layers can be lined up again bag is an easy way to get a layer of
after cutting. uniform thickness.

9. With a palette knife, smooth the

3. Split the cake in half horizontally. top. The cake is now ready for
6. Top with the second layer, and glazing, if desired (p. 447), and
mask the top . . . decorating.
444 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

The second procedure introduces many of the techniques used for some of the more elabo-
rate cakes later in this chapter. Be aware that this is only a general procedure. Some of the same
steps appear in both procedures.

GENERAL PROCEDURE: Assembling European-Style Specialty Cakes

1. Assemble all ingredients and equipment. 9. Apply a layer of the desired filling. Either spread it on
2. Place a cake card on a turntable or the work surface. with a palette knife or, to quickly apply an even layer,
The cake will be assembled on top of the card. pipe it on as shown in step 5 the Procedure for
Assembling a Basic Layered Sponge Cake.
3. Split the sponge cake horizontally into two or three
layers, depending on the thickness of the cake. 10. Top with another sponge layer and brush it with syrup.
Alternatively, use a sponge baked in a thin layer and cut 11. If you are using a third sponge layer, repeat steps
it to the desired shape and size if necessary. 9 and 10.
4. If using a charlotte ring (cake ring), line it as desired Note: It is sometimes recommended that the top sponge
(see below). layer be placed cut side up, as opposed to crust side up.
5. If using a japonaise, meringue, or short-dough base, This is especially helpful if a light, translucent icing such
place it on the cake card. Stick it down with a dab of as fondant is being used. A dark crust will show through
icing or jam so it doesn’t slide off the card. (If you are a thin fondant layer and detract from the appearance of
using a cake ring, place the base inside the ring.) Spread the cake.
with a thin layer of filling or jam. Raspberry or apricot 12. Ice the cake with the desired icing or glaze. If using
jam is often used on short-dough bases. buttercream or other spreadable icing, you may ice the
6. Place one sponge layer on top of the base; or, if you are cake directly or first give it a thin masking coat, as
not using a base layer, place the sponge layer directly on explained on page 432. Note that cakes to be covered
the card. with glaze (see the Procedure for Applying Glaze, p. 447)
must first be given a masking coat of icing.
7. Brush the cake layer with dessert syrup. Use enough to
moisten the cake well, but not so much that it becomes 13. Decorate.
soggy.
8. If you are using fruit pieces, arrange them either on top
of the base or on top of the filling after the next step.

Rectangular Cakes or Strips

Most popular cakes can also be made in a rectangular shape or strip about 21⁄2 to 31⁄2 inches
(6 to 9 cm) wide and 16 to 18 inches (40 to 46 cm) long (the width of a sheet pan) or any fraction of
that length. A cake baked in a standard sheet pan can be cut crosswise into seven pieces of this size.
To produce one cake, cut strips of the desired size from sheet cakes and then layer with fill-
ings as in the basic procedure. Ice the top and sides. Ends may be iced or be left un-iced to show
an attractive pattern of cake layers and fillings. Using a sharp serrated knife, trim a thin slice off
each end for a more attractive appearance. Wipe the knife clean and dip it in hot water before
cutting each slice.
To produce rectangular or strip cakes in quantity, use full cake sheets and layer as in the
basic procedure. Cut into strips of the desired width, then ice the top and sides of each strip.
Strip cakes are divided into portions by cutting off rectangular slices about 11⁄2 inches (4 cm)
wide. The tops may be marked into portions and decorated in a regular pattern, in the same way
that round cakes are often marked into wedges.

Lining Charlotte Rings or Cake Rings

Sometimes a soft filling or mousse, such as Bavarian cream or other gelatin-based filling, is used
in a layer cake. In these cases, it is necessary to use a ring mold to hold the filling in place until the
cake is chilled enough to set the filling. These ring molds are often called charlotte rings because
they are used to make charlottes, molded desserts made of Bavarian cream (see Chapter  19).
They may also be called cake rings.
 PLANNING AND ASSEMBLING SPECIALTY CAKES 445

Using a charlotte ring allows the pastry chef to create a decorative edge for the cake. The
cake is finished by applying an icing or glaze only to the top. The decorated sides of the cake are
revealed when the ring is removed.
For the neatest results, line the cake ring with a strip of acetate before assembling the cake.
This makes it easier to remove the metal ring from the finished cake without marring the sides.
Sponge cake, for example, sometimes sticks to the ring if acetate is not used.
Four popular linings for charlotte rings are sponge strips, sliced sponge, chocolate, and fruit.

Sponge Strips
Sponge used to line a ring must be thin (about 1⁄4 inch/0.5 cm) and flexible enough to bend with-
out breaking (see the Procedure for Lining a Ring Mold with a Sponge Strip). Sponges made with
almond powder are good for this purpose because they stay moist and flexible. Joconde Sponge
Cake (p. 405) is especially suitable. Ladyfinger Sponge (p. 407) is another good choice, even
though it does not contain nut powder, because it is strong and flexible.
For a decorative edge, Ribbon Sponge (p. 406) is popular. Using colored stencil paste allows
the chef to make many different designs for different cakes. In Chapter 19, Passion Fruit Charlotte
(p. 533) and L’Exotique (p. 536) are made with ribbon sponge. Caramelized sponge also makes an
attractive lining and is suitable for cakes made with caramelized fruit or other caramel flavor,
such as Bananier (p. 468). The Procedure for Caramelizing Sponge (below) details how to do this.

PROCEDURE: Lining a Ring Mold with a Sponge Strip

1. Use the ring as a guide to measure 2. Brush the sponge with dessert 4. Trim the end of the strip with a
the width and length of the strip of syrup before placing it in the mold, small knife (c).
sponge to be cut (a). The strip may to prevent discoloration by juices
be cut slightly narrower than the seeping through from the filling.
ring so some of the filling will show 3. Place the ring on a cake card and fit
above it. It should be slightly longer the strip of sponge into the ring (b).
than the circumference of the ring
so it will fit snugly.

PROCEDURE: Caramelizing Sponge

1. Cut a strip of joconde sponge to the desired size for available, brown under a salamander or broiler, but
lining the mold. watch it closely to prevent it from scorching.
2. Spread the sponge with a thin coating of Sabayon I 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for a second coat.
(p. 274) and then sprinkle evenly with confectioners’ 5. Turn the strip over and caramelize the other side in the
sugar, using a fine sieve. same way.
3. Brown the top of the sponge. For best results, use a
handheld electric salamander iron. If this is not
446 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

Sliced Sponge
Baumkuchen (p. 409) makes an attractive lining for molds because of the striped pattern of its cut
surfaces (see the Procedure for Lining a Mold with Slices of Baumkuchen, below), For a recipe
using baumkuchen, see Caramelized Pear Charlotte (p. 588).
Another way to make a sliced sponge lining with attractive vertical stripes is to sandwich
together thin layers of sponge with jam, ganache, or other filling. The procedure for cutting the
slices and lining the mold is the same as for baumkuchen. Chocolate Indulgence (p. 540) and
Charlotte au Cassis (p. 533) are made this way.

PROCEDURE: Lining a Mold with Slices of Baumkuchen

1. Cut a piece of baumkuchen into a 2. Cut this strip crosswise into slices 3. Fit these slices against the inside
strip just as wide as the desired 1
⁄4 in. (0.5 cm) thick (b). of the mold so the stripes are
height of the cake border (a). vertical (c).

A B C

Chocolate
Chocolate is an especially popular lining for cake molds. Tempered chocolate is spread on a strip
of acetate and placed inside the ring mold. The acetate can remain around the cake for display,
but is removed before the cake or charlotte is sliced and served. Plain chocolate may be used, but
chocolate with a pattern—such as wood grain or marble—is even more attractive. These tech-
niques are illustrated in Chapter 23 (see pages 633–634). See the procedure for Julianna (p. 466)
for an example of a cake made in a ring lined with chocolate.

Fruit
Fruits, too, can be used to line a mold, as in the procedure for Strawberry Cake (p. 456). When
using fresh fruits such as strawberries, remember the finished dessert cannot be frozen because
the texture of the fruit will be ruined and the fruit will lose juices when thawed, marring the
appearance of the cake.
Lining the mold with a strip of acetate gives the best results. (Use parchment if acetate is not
available.) Take precautions so the filling does not run between the fruit and the mold, which
would detract from the cake’s appearance. In the case of halved strawberries or similar fruit,
press the cut surface firmly against the side of the mold, but not so tightly as to crush the fruit.
Thick fillings and gelatin-based fillings that are about to set are less likely to run between the
fruit and mold.

KEY POINTS TO REVIEW

❚ What are the steps in the procedure for assembling a basic layered sponge cake?
❚ What are the steps in the general procedure for assembling European-style specialty cakes?
❚ What are the procedures for lining a cake ring with a sponge strip and with cake slices?
 PLANNING AND ASSEMBLING SPECIALTY CAKES 447

Applying Other Icings or Coatings

The assembly procedures discussed so far focus on coating cakes with spreadable icings such as but-
tercreams. Other coatings for cakes, particularly glazes and rolled coatings, require other techniques.

Glazes and Poured Fondant

Poured fondant provides a thin, smooth, shiny coating for cakes and serves as an excellent base
for paper-cone decorations. Also, in hot weather, it is a good substitute for buttercream, espe-
cially for cakes that, for one reason or another, may not be kept in a refrigerated case at all times.
When fondant is used to ice a cake, especially a sponge cake, it is a good idea to first brush
the top and sides of the cake with hot apricot glaze. Let the glaze set before applying the fondant.
This provides a moisture barrier between the fondant and the cake, and it reduces the chance
that the fondant will dry out and lose its shine. Also, it minimizes the problem of loose crumbs,
which might spoil the smoothness of the icing layer.
Guidelines for using poured fondant are on page 417. To ice a cake with fondant, set it on an
icing screen then pour the warm fondant over the cake, using a bowl knife to guide the fondant
evenly over the sides.
To apply other poured glazes, you should also first apply a moisture and crumb barrier, as
you do for fondant. However, spreading a masking coat of buttercream icing is generally a more
appropriate choice than brushing on apricot glaze.

PROCEDURE: Applying Glaze

1. Assemble all ingredients and equipment. glaze onto the center of the cake to finish. If
2. Apply a masking coat of icing to the top and sides of the necessary, tilt the cake slightly from side to side to
cake, as explained on page 432. Be sure that the icing is get the glaze to flow evenly.
perfectly smooth and level, as any irregularities will b. Alternatively, start by pouring a generous quantity of
show through the glaze. glaze over the center of the cake, letting it flow in all
3. Refrigerate until the icing is set and firm. directions. With an offset palette knife, quickly draw
the glaze toward all sides of the cake so that it covers
4. Have the glaze at a slightly warm temperature, about
the sides completely. Sweep the knife off the edges
80°F (27°C). If it is too warm, it will melt the icing. If it is
of the cake; do not lift it off the top, as this will leave
too cold, it will not flow and spread freely. Spoon off any
ridges in the glaze. You must do this quickly before
bubbles on the surface of the glaze.
the glaze begins to set.
5. Set the cake on an icing screen or rack above a sheet pan
7. If there are any bubbles in the glaze, remove them by
to catch excess glaze.
very carefully warming them with a blowtorch. Or, if the
6. Pour the glaze over the cake, covering it completely and glaze is still quite liquid, pop them with a fine skewer.
evenly. Pastry chefs have two different preferred
8. Refrigerate until the glaze is set.
methods to ensure even coating:
a. Start by pouring the glaze around the edge of the
cake first and letting it run down the sides; then pour

Rolled Coatings
Marzipan and rolled fondant are frequently used to cover cakes. Rolled fondant is most often
used for wedding cakes, as it provides a fine, smooth surface as the base for more elaborate deco-
rations. Recall from page 84 that marzipan is a confection or paste made of almonds and sugar.
While rolled fondant is always used as the outer layer, marzipan either can be used as an outer
layer or covered with a layer of poured fondant or other icing. When used under poured fondant,
marzipan, like apricot coating, serves as a moisture barrier to protect the fondant. (Production of
marzipan is explained in Chapter 24, p. 649.) Rolled fondant and marzipan can be used as is or
colored by kneading in the desired coloring.
Modeling chocolate is used much less often as a cake coating but is found on a few specialty
products. It is handled like rolled fondant, except that it is not colored.
448 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

The following are guidelines for using rolled coatings:

ROLLED 1. Prepare the surface of the cake. Make sure it is perfectly smooth and free of crumbs. Seal the
FONDANT surface of the cake by applying a masking coat of icing (as explained on p. 432) or by brushing
with melted jam. Buttercream icing is used most often under rolled fondant, while either icing
Not many years ago, the term or melted jam or apricot glaze may be used under marzipan. The seal coat helps the rolled coat-
fondant, used by itself, nearly ing stick to the cake and also serves as a moisture barrier between the cake and the coating.
always referred to the icing we
2. Work the coating product in your hands or knead it on the workbench to make it pliable, if nec-
are calling poured fondant, or
essary. Using confectioners’ sugar to dust the bench and rolling pin, roll out the coating into a
to candies that are made the
thin sheet, as though you were rolling out pastry.
same way. Today, however, the
word most often refers to the 3. If marzipan is to be on the outside of the cake—that is, not covered with icing—the sheet can
putty-like substance called be textured with a ridged rolling pin. Roll the ridged pin over the sheet of marzipan once to
rolled fondant. However, make ridges. To make a checked or dimpled texture, roll the pin across the sheet a second
poured fondant and rolled time at a right angle to the first.
fondant have almost nothing in 4. Roll the coating into a thin sheet large enough to cover the top and sides of the cake. Lift it
common except that they are with the rolling pin and drape it over the cake. With a fondant smoother or the palms of the
both mostly sugar. Rolled hands, carefully smooth the coating and mold it against the sides of the cake. Mold the sides
fondant, strictly speaking, isn’t carefully to avoid making ripples or folds.
fondant at all. Note that the 5. An easier alternative method for covering a round layer cake with marzipan is to coat only
word itself comes from the the top layer. Place the layer upside down on a sheet of marzipan and press it on lightly. Trim
French word meaning off the excess marzipan. Set the layer right side up on the cake. You can then ice the sides of
“melting,” a most inappropri- the cake in a conventional manner.
ate term when applied to the
6. To coat the sides of a round layer cake after coating the top, first ice the sides so the marzi-
rolled coating.
pan will stick. Roll out a strip of marzipan as wide as the cake is high and as long as three
times the width of the cake. Roll up the strip loosely, then unroll it against the sides of the
cake. The cake can now be coated with fondant or another light icing.
7. To cover a strip cake or a sponge roll (Swiss roll) with marzipan or rolled fondant, roll out a
sheet of coating large enough to cover the strip or roll. Coat the cake with apricot glaze or
melted jam. Set the cake on the coating at one edge and roll it up in the sheet.
As an alternative, you can brush the apricot glaze onto the rolled-out coating rather
than onto the cake.
8. In humid weather, it is best not to store cakes coated with rolled fondant in the refrigerator.
When the cake is removed from refrigeration, moisture that condenses on the surface can
mar the appearance of the fondant.

Assembling Tiered Cakes

Amateur bakers sometimes make the mistake of thinking that a tiered cake such as a wedding
cake can be made by simply stacking up increasingly smaller layers atop one another.
Unfortunately, the result is almost always a collapsed cake, because the bottom layers are not
strong enough to support the weight of the layers on top.
Tiered cakes require adequate support to maintain their structure. The procedure given here
outlines the steps in building this structure.
Butter cakes or high-ratio cakes are the best choices for tiered cakes, because of their density.

PROCEDURE: Assembling a Tiered Cake

1. Ice each tier separately. Each tier should be on its own from refrigeration one at a time, when needed, to keep
cake circle. Use cake circles of the same diameters as the them firm. (However, see the caution about refrigeration
cake layers. They should not be visible when the tier has at the end of the guidelines for applying rolled coatings,
been completed. above.)
2. Refrigerate the cakes so that they are firm and easy to 3. Place the bottom tier on a cake stand, a heavy cake
handle before beginning to assemble. Remove the tiers board, or whatever surface the cake will be displayed on.
(continues)
 PLANNING AND ASSEMBLING SPECIALTY CAKES 449

(continued)
4. Mark the top of the cake tier with an inverted cake pan smaller, you will need fewer dowels to support them,
the same size as the next tier. Center the pan and but always at least three. You will not need dowels in
press it gently into the icing and remove it. This the top tier unless you need to support a heavy top
procedure will make a circle in the top of the cake ornament. To support a top ornament, mark the icing
to serve as a guide for of the top tier with the bottom of the ornament, and
placing the next tier. then cut and insert dowels as in steps 5–8. In most
Alternatively, instead of a cases, use three dowels placed in a triangle. Even for
cake pan, place a cake circle smaller ornaments, using only one or two dowels
the size of the second tier makes the ornament unstable.
on top of the lower tier and 10. Steps 1–9 may be done well in advance of final assembly
lightly mark the icing around and the cakes may be returned to the refrigerator at this
the edge of the circle with point. Even if you proceed immediately to final
a pick (a). A assembly, it is a good idea to refrigerate the cake tiers
5. Insert a thin wooden dowel into the center of the cake, briefly to make sure they are firm.
keeping it perfectly vertical. 11. To assemble, first pipe a little royal icing onto the tops of
Press it down firmly so that the dowels to stick the bottom of the next tier’s cake circle
it rests solidly on the bottom in place and keep it from
cake board. It may be sliding. Some bakers omit this
necessary to sharpen the step, but it is recommended,
dowel slightly. especially if the finished cake
6. Using a knife or a pencil, must be moved more than a
make a mark in the dowel short distance.
just at the level of the 12. Place the second tier on top
surface of the icing (b). B of the bottom tier, aligning
7. Remove the dowel. Using the mark as a guide, cut it with the circle that you
additional dowels of the same length. The number made in step 4 (d). Repeat
of dowels needed depends on the size of the steps 11 and 12 for the
cake tier. Usually 4 to 7 will be enough. A remaining tiers. D
heavy wire cutter is a convenient tool for 13. Decorate the cake as desired.
cutting the dowels.
8. Insert one cut dowel in the
Procedure Summary
center of the cake and the
remaining dowels in a circle 1. Ice each tier and refrigerate.
around it, remaining about 1 2. Mark guide circles in the top icing of each tier.
inch (2.5 cm) inside the circle
3. Insert, mark, and cut dowels.
that was marked in the top of
the icing (c). C 4. Insert dowels.
9. Repeat steps 5–8 to measure, cut, and insert dowels in 5. Pipe royal icing on the tops of the dowels.
each of the remaining layers. As the tiers become 6. Stack the tiers.
Gordana Sermek/Shutterstock
LiAndStudio/Shutterstock
Annkozar/Shutterstock
450 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

KEY POINTS TO REVIEW

❚ What are the steps in the procedure for applying glaze?
❚ How are rolled coatings applied to cakes?
❚ What are the steps in the procedure for assembling tiered cakes?

P R O C E D U R E S F O R S P E C I A LT Y C A K E S
THE PREVIOUS SECTION of this chapter concentrated on explaining general procedures and
techniques for assembling specialty cakes. The remainder of the chapter is devoted to specific
procedures for assembling a variety of cakes and cake-based desserts, including Swiss rolls and
small cakes.
The instructions for specialty cakes in this chapter are assembly procedures rather than reci-
pes, even though they may resemble recipes with their lists of ingredients or components. These
procedures may be used for cakes of any size. In many cases, they can be used not only for round
cakes but also for square cakes and rectangular strips. Consequently, the quantities of fillings and
icings needed to complete them vary considerably. Presenting the procedures in this way reflects
the normal working practices of a bakeshop. In a typical operation, cakes are baked ahead of
time, and fillings, icings, and other components are prepared separately and in advance.
Depending on demand or sales, individual desserts can be assembled quickly, as needed, using
the materials on hand.
For a few of the more complex cakes, approximate quantities for the major components are
given as guidelines. These quantities apply only to the size of cake indicated in the procedure.
This does not prevent you, however, from using the procedures to make any size cake, changing
the quantities as necessary.

Large Cakes
Most of the procedures in this section are for round cakes. Many of these, except those made in
ring molds, could also be made as rectangles or strips, as explained on page 444. In addition,
most of these cakes can be made in any size. Therefore, specific quantities of the individual com-
ponents are not given in many cases; you have the freedom to make the cake in any size you wish.
Bakeshops generally make cakes from the components they have on hand in larger quantities, so
chefs simply use the quantities they feel they need without measuring specific amounts.
A number of more complex cakes are introduced later in the section, and the quantities
required for them are included as guidelines, to help you visualize the cakes. Feel free to modify
these quantities as necessary.
Finally, many molded desserts and pastries are made in the shape of cakes and decorated
like cakes. For example, molded and decorated Bavarian creams, called charlottes, are often
made in ring molds, as some cakes are. These are included with basic Bavarians in Chapter 19 if
they are made without cake layers. Other desserts made in the shape of cakes are found in
Chapters 15 and 21. Some of these are mentioned in the section above called Lining Charlotte
Rings or Cake Rings.
Each of the procedures in this section is accompanied by a diagram to help you visualize how
the components are layered and built to make the completed cake. These drawings are intended
to show the structure of the cake and the relationships of its components. They are not necessar-
ily drawn to scale. For example, you may make layers of icings thicker or thinner than those
shown. Decorations for the tops of the cakes usually are not shown.
 PROCEDURES FOR SPECIALTY CAKES 451

BLACK FOREST TORTE

Components PROCEDURE
1. Moisten one chocolate sponge layer with syrup.
Chocolate Genoise (pp. 401),
split into 3 layers, or 3 2. Spread with a thin layer of whipped cream.
Chocolate Sponge Layers 3. With a pastry bag fitted with a large, plain tube, pipe a circle of cream in the center of the
(p. 410) layer. Pipe a ring of cream around the edge. Then pipe another ring in the space between
Dessert syrup flavored with these two.
kirsch 4. Fill the two spaces between these rings with well-drained cherries.
Whipped cream flavored with 5. Top with a second sponge layer. Moisten with syrup.
kirsch 6. Spread with a layer of whipped cream.
Sweet, dark, pitted cherries, 7. Top with a third sponge layer, moistened with syrup.
drained
8. Ice the top and sides with whipped cream.
Chocolate shavings
9. With the back of a knife, mark off the top of the cake into the desired number of wedges.
10. Mask the sides of the cake with chocolate shavings. Sprinkle chocolate shavings in the center
of the cake.
11. With a star tube, pipe rosettes of whipped cream around the top edge of the cake so that
there is one on each wedge. Place a cherry on each rosette.

Chocolate shavings Whipped cream

Chocolate sponge moistened Cherries

with kirsch-flavored syrup

S C H W A R Z W A L D E R K I R S C H TO R T E
The Black Forest, or Schwarzwald (SHVARTS valt) in German,
lies in southwestern Germany, just east of the Rhine River. One
of the prominent agricultural products of this scenic region is
the cherry, or kirsche (keer sheh), which is used to make the
clear white brandy (eau-de-vie) called kirschwasser. The
Black Forest torte (Schwarzwalder Kirschtorte), made of
chocolate sponge flavored with kirschwasser (or kirsch, for
short) and layered with cherries and whipped cream, is a
popular dessert in this region and is sold in most pastry shops.
452 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

MOCHA TORTE
Components PROCEDURE
1. Moisten the cake layers with syrup. Sandwich them together with buttercream.
Genoise (p. 401), split into
3 or 4 layers 2. Ice the top and sides smoothly with buttercream.
Buttercream flavored with 3. Decorate as desired with a pastry bag filled with additional buttercream. Chocolate decorations
coffee (p. 419) are also appropriate. Sides may be masked with toasted, sliced almonds, if desired.
Dessert syrup flavored with VA R I AT I O N
coffee or coffee liqueur
Alternate 2 thin layers of vanilla genoise with 2 thin layers of chocolate genoise.

MOCHA
Mocha, also spelled Mukha, is the name of a seaport in
Coffee buttercream Genoise moistened with Yemen, on the Arabian peninsula. This city was an
coffee-flavored syrup
important exporter of a richly flavored coffee that has been
prized since at least the fifteenth century. We know this
coffee primarily as one of the two components of the coffee
blend mocha java. In other words, the term mocha originally
had nothing to do with chocolate. Today, however, we most
often use the word to refer to a blend of coffee and chocolate
flavors. The Mocha Torte here honors the original meaning
of the word, as it is flavored with coffee only (although the
variation offers a chocolate option).

FRUIT TORTE
Components PROCEDURE
1. Spread the short dough base with jam.
Short Dough (p. 314) or
Almond Short Dough 2. Top with a sponge layer. Moisten with syrup.
(p. 315) circle 3. Spread with a thin layer of buttercream.
Genoise (p. 401) or Almond 4. Top with second sponge layer.
Sponge (p. 401), split into 5. Moisten with syrup.
2 layers
6. Ice the top and sides with buttercream.
Raspberry or apricot jam
7. Arrange the fruits on the top of the cake in neat, concentric circles, as though you were making
Dessert syrup flavored with an unbaked fruit tart (p. 352).
vanilla or kirsch
8. Glaze the fruits with apricot glaze.
Buttercream flavored with
9. Mask the sides of the cake with almonds.
vanilla or kirsch (p. 419)
Small fruits, preferably 3 VA R I AT I O N
or 4 kinds, in contrasting
Instead of buttercream, use whipped cream or pastry cream for the filling.
colors (such as mandarin
Vanilla or kirsch
orange slices, cherries,
Almonds Fruit buttercream
grapes, banana slices,
strawberries, apricot
halves, and pineapple
wedges)
Apricot Glaze (p. 194)
Almonds, sliced or chopped

Genoise or almond sponge Short dough Raspberry jam

moistened with vanilla syrup
or kirsch-flavored syrup
 PROCEDURES FOR SPECIALTY CAKES 453

DOBOS TORTE
Components PROCEDURE
1. Set aside the best Dobos layer for the top.
7 Dobos layers (p. 402)
2. Sandwich the other 6 layers together with chocolate buttercream.
Chocolate buttercream
(pp. 418–419) 3. Ice the top and sides completely. Mask the sides with chopped almonds.
Chopped almonds 4. Cook the sugar to the light caramel stage. Pour the hot caramel over the reserved Dobos layer
to coat the top completely with a thin layer.
Sugar, cooked to the light
caramel stage (p. 253) 5. With a heavy, buttered knife, immediately cut the caramel layer into portion-size wedges. This
must be done before the caramel hardens.
6. Top the cake with the layer of caramel-covered wedges.

VA R I AT I O N

Chocolate Dobos SEVEN-LAYER CAKE

buttercream Caramel sponge
Seven-layer cake is a variation of the Dobos
Torte, except it is generally made as a strip or
rectangle (see p. 444 for an explanation)
rather than as a round cake. Use Dobos Mix
(p. 402), seven-layer mix (p. 401), or any thin
sponge layers. Sandwich together 7 layers of
cake with chocolate buttercream. Coat the top
and sides with chocolate buttercream,
chocolate fondant, or melted chocolate.
Almonds

NAPOLEON GÂTEAU
Components PROCEDURE
1. Roll out puff paste 1⁄8 in. (3 mm) thick. Cut out 3 circles 1 in. (2.5 cm) larger in diameter than the
Blitz Puff Pastry (p. 319) or
desired cake (to allow for shrinkage during baking). Dock the pastry well. Let rest 30 minutes.
scrap puff paste
2. Bake the puff paste at 400°F (200°C) until browned and crisp. Cool. With a serrated knife,
Pastry Cream (p. 263)
carefully trim the circles, if necessary, so they are perfectly round and uniform.
White fondant
3. Sandwich the 3 layers together with generous layers of pastry cream. Use the best pastry layer
Chocolate fondant for the top and place it upside down so the top is flat and smooth.
Chopped almonds or puff 4. Ice the top with white poured fondant and marble it with chocolate fondant (see p. 440).
paste crumbs
5. Carefully smooth the sides, using additional pastry cream if necessary. Mask with almonds or
NOTE: This is the same as a pastry crumbs.
regular Napoleon but made in
the shape of a cake. Almonds or Marbled
pastry crumbs fondant Puff pastry

Pastry cream
454 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

SACHERTORTE
Components PROCEDURE
1. Trim the cake, if necessary, and cut it into 2 layers. Moisten both layers with kirsch syrup.
1 baked Sacher cake
(p. 396) 2. Sandwich the layers together with a layer of apricot jam.
Dessert syrup flavored with 3. Mask the top and sides of the cake with ganache, spreading it perfectly smooth.
kirsch 4. Chill the cake until the ganache is firm.
Apricot jam 5. Place the cake on a wire rack on a tray. Ice the cake by pouring warm chocolate glaçage over
Ganache (p. 272) it. Run a palette knife over the top and tap the tray to smooth the icing. Chill until set.
Chocolate Glaçage (p. 427) 6. Remove from the wire rack, neaten the bottom edge with a knife, and place on a cake board.
Grated dark chocolate 7. Using additional ganache, pipe the word “Sacher” across the middle of the cake. Coat the
bottom of the sides with grated chocolate. (For background information on this classic
Austrian cake, see page 397.)

Chocolate
glaçage
Grated chocolate
Ganache

Sacher cake layers Apricot jam

moistened with kirsch syrup
 PROCEDURES FOR SPECIALTY CAKES 455

KIRSCH TORTE
Components PROCEDURE
1. Moisten the genoise with enough kirsch syrup to saturate it well.
2 baked meringue or
japonaise disks (pp. 341 2. Place a meringue or japonaise layer upside down (smooth side up) on a cake circle.
and 342) 3. Spread it with a layer of buttercream.
1 baked genoise layer 4. Place the genoise on top and spread it with buttercream.
(p. 401), about 1 in. 5. Top with the second meringue layer, smooth side up.
(2.5 cm) thick
6. Spread the sides smoothly with buttercream and coat them with nuts or meringue crumbs.
Dessert syrup flavored with
7. Dust the top heavily with confectioners’ sugar. With the back of a knife, mark the sugar in a
kirsch
diamond pattern.
Buttercream flavored with
kirsch (p. 419)
Almonds or
Confectioners’ sugar meringue crumbs Confectioners'
Chopped almonds or Buttercream sugar
meringue crumbs

Genoise moistened with Meringue

kirsch-flavored syrup disks

ORANGE CREAM CAKE

Components PROCEDURE
1. Spread the meringue layer with whipped cream.
1 meringue disk (p. 341)
2. Top with a genoise layer and brush it with syrup.
Genoise (p. 401), split into
2 layers 3. Spread with whipped cream.
Orange-flavored dessert 4. Arrange a layer of orange segments, well drained, on the cream.
syrup 5. Top with a second genoise layer. Moisten with syrup.
Whipped cream lightly 6. Ice the top and sides of the cake with whipped cream.
flavored with orange 7. Mark the top of the cake into the desired number of wedges.
liqueur
8. Decorate with rosettes of whipped cream around the top edge of the cake. Top each rosette
Mandarin orange segments with an orange segment.
NOTE: This procedure can be
used with any appropriate fruit, Mandarin
such as strawberries, pineapple, Whipped Genoise moistened with orange
apricots, and cherries. The cream orange-liqueur syrup segments
flavor of the syrup and the
cream should be appropriate to
the fruit.

Meringue disk
456 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

STRAWBERRY CAKE
Components PROCEDURE
1. Line a charlotte ring with a strip of acetate. Set the ring on a cake card.
2 genoise layers (p. 401),
each 1⁄2 in. (1 cm) thick 2. Place a genoise layer in the ring and brush it with syrup.
Dessert syrup flavored with 3. Select the best-looking, most uniformly sized strawberries to line the ring and cut them in half
kirsch vertically. Place them on the sponge evenly spaced around the edge, with the stem end down
and the cut surface against the acetate. Distribute the remaining strawberries evenly on the
Fresh strawberries, trimmed
sponge.
Vanilla Bavarian Cream
4. Cover the strawberries with the Bavarian cream, which has been cooled until it is thick and
(p. 528)
just about to set, filling the ring to within 1⁄2 in. (1 cm) of the top, making sure there are no
Buttercream flavored with airspaces around the berries.
vanilla (p. 419)
5. Place the second genoise layer on top, pressing down gently. Brush the top with syrup.
Piping chocolate (p. 637)
6. Spread the top with a thin layer of buttercream.
7. Using a paper cone, decorate the top of the cake with piping chocolate, making desired
patterns (see pp. 436–438).
8. Chill until set. Remove the ring, but leave the acetate around the cake until ready to serve.

Vanilla Vanilla Bavarian

buttercream cream

Genoise moistened with Strawberries

kirsch-flavored syrup

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE CAKE

Components PROCEDURE
1. Sandwich together the chocolate meringue disks with chocolate mousse.
3 chocolate meringue disks
(p. 341) 2. Ice the top and sides completely with chocolate mousse.
Chocolate Mousse (p. 273) 3. Coat the top and sides of the cake with shaved chocolate.
Shaved chocolate
Chocolate
shavings Chocolate mousse

Chocolate
meringue disks
 PROCEDURES FOR SPECIALTY CAKES 457

CHOCOLATE GANACHE TORTE

Components PROCEDURE
1. Spread the meringue disk with ganache.
1 plain or chocolate
meringue disk (p. 341) 2. Top with a genoise layer. Moisten with syrup and spread with a layer of ganache.
(optional) 3. Repeat with a second genoise layer and more syrup and ganache.
Whipped ganache (p. 272) 4. Top with the remaining cake layer, moistened with syrup.
Chocolate Genoise (p. 401), 5. Ice the top and sides with buttercream.
split into 3 layers 6. Decorate as desired.
Dessert syrup flavored
with rum or vanilla
Chocolate buttercream Chocolate genoise moistened
Chocolate with vanilla syrup or
(pp. 418–419) buttercream rum-flavored syrup
Chocolate ganache

Meringue disk

ABRICOTINE
Components PROCEDURE
1. Place a layer of genoise on a cake card and brush it with syrup.
Genoise (p. 401), split into
2 layers 2. Spread with a layer of apricot preserves.
Dessert syrup flavored 3. Top with the second genoise layer and brush with syrup.
with kirsch 4. Coat the top and sides of the cake with Italian meringue.
Apricot preserves 5. Using a pastry bag with a star tip, pipe a decorative border of Italian meringue on top of the
Italian Meringue (p. 259) cake.
Sliced almonds 6. Fill the center of the top of the cake with a layer of sliced almonds and dust with
confectioners’ sugar.
Confectioners’ sugar
7. Place in a hot oven (500°F/250°C) until lightly browned.

Almonds, Italian
confectioners' sugar meringue

Genoise moistened with Apricot preserves

kirsch-flavored syrup
458 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

ALMOND GÂTEAU
Components PROCEDURE
1. Moisten the sponge layers with syrup and sandwich them together with apricot jam.
Almond Sponge (p. 401),
split into 2 layers 2. Coat the sides of the cake with the macaroon mixture. Using a star tube or basketweave tube,
cover the top of the cake with macaroon mix in a basketweave pattern.
Dessert syrup flavored
with rum 3. Let stand for at least 1 hour.
Apricot jam 4. Brown quickly in a hot oven (450°F/230°C), about 10 minutes.
Almond macaroon mixture 5. While still warm, glaze with apricot glaze.
(p. 498)
Apricot Glaze (p. 194) Apricot glaze Almond macaroon mixture

Almond sponge moistened Apricot jam

with rum-flavored syrup

BAVARIAN CREAM TORTE

Components PROCEDURE
1. Line the bottom of a charlotte ring, cake pan, or springform pan with a thin sponge layer.
Genoise (p. 401) or other
Moisten with syrup.
sponge cut into 3 very
thin layers, about 1⁄4 in. 2. Prepare the Bavarian cream. Pour enough of the mixture into the cake pan to make a layer
(6 mm) thick about 3⁄4 in. (2 cm) thick.
Bavarian Cream in any 3. Place a second layer of sponge cake on top of the cream. Moisten with syrup.
flavor (pp. 528–529) 4. Fill with another layer of Bavarian cream.
Whipped cream flavored to 5. Top with the remaining sponge layer.
be compatible with that 6. Chill until set.
of the Bavarian cream
7. Unmold.
(use chocolate whipped
cream with chocolate 8. Ice the top and sides with whipped cream.
Bavarian torte) 9. Decorate as desired.
Dessert syrup, flavored
appropriately Whipped
Genoise moistened
cream
with dessert syrup

Bavarian cream
 PROCEDURES FOR SPECIALTY CAKES 459

FEUILLE D’AUTOMNE
Components PROCEDURE
1. Place a 7-in. (18-cm) charlotte ring on a cake board. Lay one of the meringue disks in the
Almond Meringues (p. 342),
bottom.
three 61⁄2-in. (16-cm) disks
2. Fill the ring slightly less than half full of mousse.
Chocolate Mousse IV (p. 538),
16–20 oz (450–550 g) 3. Place a second meringue on top and press down lightly. Fill nearly to the top with mousse,
then place the third meringue on top. Press down lightly.
Dark chocolate couverture,
about 14 oz (400 g) 4. Spread the top with a thin layer of mousse.
Cocoa powder 5. Chill until firm.
6. Remove the charlotte ring, using a blowtorch to help release the sides. Chill again to firm the
sides.
7. Melt the chocolate couverture.
8. Heat 3 clean half-sheet pans at 325°F (160°C) for 4 minutes. Spread the melted chocolate over
the bottoms of the trays. Let cool at room temperature until the chocolate begins to get
cloudy. (Warming the pans enables you to spread a thinner coat of chocolate; be careful,
however, not to get the pans too hot. Some chefs prefer to use cold pans.)
Note: The procedure used here is illustrated and explained in more detail in Chapter 23 (see
p. 636). An experienced chef may need as little as 1 or 11⁄2 pans of chocolate to coat the cake,
but it is a good idea to prepare extra, to allow for mistakes.
9. Refrigerate to set completely.
10. Bring back to room temperature. The chocolate must be pliable but not soft. Use a metal
scraper to lift strips of chocolate off the trays, as shown on page 636. Wrap these around the
sides of the cake. Use the same technique to make ruffles for the top of the cake. Chill until
firm.
11. Dust the top with a little cocoa powder. (The cake in the illustration is further decorated with
chocolate leaves, made by brushing a leaf mold (real leaves could also be used) with
tempered chocolate and letting the chocolate set before peeling off.)

Almond meringue Chocolate

disks strips

Chocolate mousse
460 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

ALHAMBRA
Components PROCEDURE
1. Trim the top of the cake, if necessary, to make it level. Turn it upside down. Cut it in half
One 8-in. (20-cm) round
horizontally to split into 2 layers.
Hazelnut Sponge Cake
(p. 408) 2. Brush both halves with syrup to moisten.
Coffee Rum Syrup (p. 255) 3. Using a pastry bag with a medium plain tip, pipe the ganache onto the bottom layer, making
a spiral that starts in the center and covers the layer completely.
Ganache I (p. 272), made with
equal parts cream and 4. Place the second layer on top and press down lightly.
chocolate, about 8 oz (250 g) 5. Mask the top and sides of the cake with the remaining ganache. Chill until firm.
Chocolate Glaçage (p. 427), 6. Place the cake on a wire rack over a tray. Pour the glaçage over it. Carefully run a palette knife
5–6 oz (150–175 g) over the top and then tap the tray to ensure the icing is perfectly smooth. Chill until set.
Decoration 7. When the icing is chilled and set, remove the cake from the wire rack. Neaten the bottom
Chopped pistachios edge with a knife.
Marzipan rose 8. Press chopped pistachios around the bottom 1⁄2 in. (1 cm) of the sides. Place on a cake card.
9. Using the remaining ganache, pipe the word “Alhambra” across the middle of the cake.
NOTE: Assembly of this cake is
illustrated on page 443. 10. Make 2 marzipan roses and 2 leaves (see p. 651) and brush them with cocoa powder to
highlight them. Arrange them attractively above the writing on top of the cake.

Chocolate
glaçage

Hazelnut sponge Ganache Chopped

cake moistened pistachios
with coffee rum syrup
 PROCEDURES FOR SPECIALTY CAKES 461

GENOISE À LA CONFITURE FRAMBOISE

(GENOISE WITH RASPBERRY FILLING)
Components PROCEDURE
1. Moisten one genoise layer with the syrup. Spread the top evenly with raspberry preserves.
Genoise (p. 401), split into
2 layers 2. Moisten the bottom of the second cake layer with syrup and place on top of the first layer.
Brush the top with additional syrup.
Dessert syrup flavored with
framboise (raspberry 3. Coat the top and sides with the Italian meringue and spread smooth with a palette knife.
alcohol) Using a pastry bag, decorate the top with additional meringue.
Raspberry preserves or jam 4. Press the almonds around the bottom edge of the sides of the cake.
(p. 589) 5. Brown the meringue with a blowtorch.
Italian Meringue (p. 259) 6. Garnish the top of the cake with fresh raspberries and sprinkle with a little confectioners’
Sliced almonds sugar.
Fresh raspberries
Confectioners’ sugar Italian
meringue

Sliced Genoise moistened with Raspberry

almonds framboise-flavored syrup preserves
462 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

BRASILIA
Components PROCEDURE
1. Cut the sponge into 3 equal rectangles, about 6 × 12 in. (15 × 30 cm).
1 half-sheet pan Hazelnut
Joconde Sponge Cake 2. Prepare the nougatine. Roll out into a thin rectangle slightly larger than the sponge
(p. 405) rectangles. While it is still warm, trim the edges with a sharp knife so they are straight and the
rectangle is about 1⁄2 in. (1 cm) smaller on a side than the sponge (to allow for later trimming of
Nougatine (p. 658), freshly
the sponge). (If you rolled the nougatine on a silicone mat, remove it from the mat before
prepared, 10 oz (300 g)
cutting.) Cut portions of the desired size, but leave them together. Let cool.
Dark chocolate, melted,
3. Spread one sponge layer with a thin coat of melted chocolate. Refrigerate to set.
about 2 oz (50 g)
4. Remove from the refrigerator, turn chocolate side down, and brush with the rum syrup.
Dessert syrup flavored
with rum 5. Spread with a layer of buttercream, about 1⁄4 in. (5 mm) thick.
Caramel Buttercream 6. Place a second sponge layer on top, brush with syrup, and again spread with buttercream.
(p. 422), 1 lb (500 g) 7. Repeat with the third layer and spread with buttercream.
Tempered white couverture 8. Trim the edges and top with the nougatine.
for decoration 9. Put the tempered white chocolate in a paper cone and decorate the top of the cake with a
fancy border.
10. If desired, this large cake can be cut in half to make two 6-in. (15-cm) square cakes.

Nougatine

Caramel Hazelnut joconde sponge Chocolate

buttercream cake moistened with
rum-flavored syrup
 PROCEDURES FOR SPECIALTY CAKES 463

RUSSIAN CAKE
Components PROCEDURE
1. Cut the sponge into 3 equal rectangles, about 6 × 12 in. (15 × 30 cm).
1 half-sheet pan Joconde
Sponge Cake (p. 405) 2. Spread one sponge layer with a thin layer of melted chocolate. Refrigerate to set.
Dark chocolate, melted, 3. Remove from the refrigerator, turn chocolate side down, and brush with the cognac syrup.
about 2 oz (50 g) 4. Spread with a layer of buttercream, about 1⁄2 in. (1 cm) thick.
Dessert syrup flavored 5. Place a second sponge layer on top, brush with syrup, and again spread with buttercream.
with cognac 6. Top with the third layer of sponge and brush with syrup. Trim the sides of the cake neatly.
Praline Buttercream 7. Heat the apricot glaze and thin with water to a consistency that can be poured and spread.
(p. 421), 1 lb (500 g) Glaze the top of the cake.
Apricot Glaze (p. 194) 8. With the remaining buttercream, decorate the top of the cake with a scroll border, using a
Toasted sliced almonds pastry bag with a star tip.
Confectioners’ sugar 9. Garnish the top of the cake with the almonds and dust them very lightly with confectioners’
sugar.

Apricot glaze

Joconde sponge cake Praline Chocolate

moistened with buttercream
cognac-flavored syrup
464 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

OPERA CAKE
Components PROCEDURE
1. Cut the sponge into 3 equal rectangles, about 6 × 12 in. (15 × 30 cm).
1 half-sheet pan Joconde
Sponge Cake (p. 405) 2. Spread one sponge layer with a thin coat of melted chocolate. Refrigerate to set.
Dark chocolate, melted, 3. Remove from the refrigerator, turn chocolate side down, and brush with the coffee syrup.
about 2 oz (50 g) 4. Spread with a layer of buttercream, about 1⁄4 in. (5 mm) thick.
Dessert syrup flavored with 5. Place a second sponge layer on top, brush with syrup, and spread with a thin layer of ganache.
coffee extract 6. Top with the third layer of sponge and brush with syrup. Spread with a layer of the
French Buttercream flavored buttercream. Smooth the top carefully with a palette knife. Refrigerate or freeze until firm. The
with coffee (p. 421), cake must be quite cold so the warm glaze does not melt the buttercream.
12 oz (350 g) 7. Set the cake on a rack over a tray. Pour warm opera glaze over the cake. Pass a palette knife
Ganache, 5–6 oz (150 g) over the top of the cake and then tap the tray to smooth the glaze.
Opera Glaze (p. 428) 8. Chill until set. Remove from the rack and trim the sides of the cake neatly and squarely with a
hot knife.
9. With additional ganache in a paper cone, pipe the word Opera on top of the cake.

Opera glaze Ganache

Joconde sponge cake Coffee-flavored Chocolate

moistened with buttercream
coffee-flavored syrup
 PROCEDURES FOR SPECIALTY CAKES 465

MONTE CARLO
Components PROCEDURE
1. Pipe 7-in. (18-cm) circles of common meringue onto parchment paper (see p. 341 for the
Common Meringue
technique). Use all the meringue—you will need two circles for the cake, plus crumbled
(p. 258), 8 oz (225 g)
meringue for decoration. Bake at 325°F (160°C) until firm. Using a 7-in. (18-cm) charlotte ring
Almond Chocolate Sponge like a cookie cutter, trim two of the circles to fit inside the ring.
(p. 410), one circle 5, 6,
2. Trim the almond chocolate sponge, if necessary, to fit inside a 5-in. (13-cm) cake pan. Brush
or 7 in. (13–18 cm) in
generously with the reserved syrup from the apricot compote. Pour warm apricot compote on
diameter
top of the sponge in the tin. Chill until set.
Jelled Spiced Apricot
3. Place one of the meringue layers on a cake card. Turn out the sponge and apricot compote
Compote (p. 466)
from the tin upside down on top of the meringue so the almond sponge layer is on top. Be
Almond Cream (p. 196), sure to center this 5-in. (13-cm) circle on the meringue.
14 oz (400 g)
4. Place a 7-in. (18-cm) charlotte ring on the cake card enclosing the meringue layer.
Decoration
5. Fill to just below the top of the ring with the almond cream. Top with the second meringue
Crème Chantilly (p. 257) layer, pressing down gently. Chill until set.
Apricot halves 6. Remove the charlotte ring, carefully using a blowtorch to release the ring from the sides.
Cocoa powder 7. Mask the top and sides of the cake by spreading on a thin layer of almond cream.
Red currants 8. Crumble the remaining baked meringue and press the crumbs onto the sides and top of the
cake.
9. Using a pastry bag with a star tip, pipe 8 rosettes of crème Chantilly around the top edge of
the cake. Top each with a fanned apricot half. Dust the center lightly with cocoa powder. If
desired, add a few red currants for further decoration.
Almond
Broken meringue cream

Meringue Chocolate sponge Jelled spiced

disks moistened with apricot compote
apricot-flavored
syrup
466 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

JELLED SPICED APRICOT COMPOTE

Ingredients PROCEDURE
1. Drain and reserve the syrup from the apricots. Add the cinnamon stick and lemon peel to the
Canned apricots with
syrup and bring to a boil. Add the apricots and simmer until the fruit is beginning to fall apart
syrup, 12 oz (350 g)
(if necessary, remove the apricots and chop them). Remove the cinnamon stick and lemon
Cinnamon stick, 1 peel. Drain and reserve the syrup to moisten the cake layer as directed in step 2 of the recipe
Lemon peel, strips from for Monte Carlo.
1 lemon 2. Soften the gelatin in cold water (see pp. 80–82).
Gelatin, 1⁄6 oz (4 g, or 3. Add the gelatin to the hot apricots and stir until it is dissolved. Stir in the amaretto.
2 leaves)
4. Rewarm, if necessary, to use in the Monte Carlo on the previous page.
Amaretto liqueur, 2 oz
(60 mL)

JULIANNA
Components PROCEDURE
1. Line a 7-in. (18-cm) charlotte ring with a strip of acetate coated with wood-grain chocolate
Wood-grain chocolate strip
(see pp. 633–634). Set the ring on a cake card.
Plain genoise (p. 401),
2. Place a disk of genoise sponge in the base of the ring. (Note: The sponge circles may be cut
two 7-in. (18-cm) disks,
from a thin sheet of sponge, or cut horizontally from a thicker sponge layer.)
⁄4– ⁄8 in. (1 cm) thick
1 3

3. Brush the sponge with coffee syrup.

Coffee Syrup (p. 255)
4. Fill the ring halfway with praline cream.
Praline Cream II (p. 535),
10 oz (300 g) 5. Top with a second sponge layer and press down gently and evenly. Brush the sponge with
coffee syrup.
Vanilla Cream (p. 422),
10 oz (300 g) 6. Fill the ring to the top with vanilla cream. Smooth with a palette knife. Chill until firm.
Coffee Marble Glaze 7. Add the coffee extract to the marble glaze (see p. 429) and swirl in lightly. Spread over the
(p. 429), 3–4 oz surface of the cake, swirling to give a marbled pattern. Chill well.
(100–110 g) 8. Remove the ring and peel away the acetate. Neaten the edge of the glaze with a small knife.
Decoration 9. Decorate the top of the cake with a chocolate fan dusted with confectioners’ sugar, a few
Chocolate fan chocolate cigarettes (p. 635), and caramelized hazelnuts.
Chocolate cigarettes
Caramelized hazelnuts

Vanilla cream Coffee marble glaze

Wood-grain Genoise moistened with Praline

chocolate strip coffee-flavored syrup cream
 PROCEDURES FOR SPECIALTY CAKES 467

TIRAMISÙ
Components PROCEDURE
1. Cut the sponge sheet in half crosswise.
1 sheet Ladyfinger Sponge
(p. 407) 2. Combine the espresso and syrup. Brush the sponge sheets generously with this syrup—use it
all.
Strong espresso coffee,
1 pt (500 mL) 3. Place one sponge sheet on a tray. Spread half the filling evenly over the sponge.
Dessert syrup, 8 oz 4. Top with the second layer of sponge, followed by the remaining filling. Smooth the top. Chill
(250 mL) until firm.
Mascarpone Filling (recipe 5. Dust the top generously with cocoa powder.
follows) 6. Cut 6 × 4 into 24 portions.
Cocoa powder
Cocoa
NOTE: This recipe is easily cut powder
in half. Start with a half-size
sponge sheet and use half
the filling and coffee syrup.
Alternatively, use ready-
prepared ladyfinger cookies in
place of the sponge sheet.

Ladyfinger sponge Mascarpone

moistened with filling
espresso syrup

MASCARPONE FILLING
Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE
1. Whip the egg yolks until light.
Egg yolks 2 yolks 2 yolks
2. Make a syrup of the sugar, water, and glucose and cook to 248°F
Sugar 6 oz 180 g
(120°C). Gradually pour into the egg yolks while whipping
Water 4 oz 120 g constantly. Continue whipping until cool.
Glucose or corn syrup 2 oz 60 g 3. In a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the mascarpone
Mascarpone 1 lb 500 g until soft.
Heavy cream 1 lb 8 oz 740 g 4. With the mixer running at low speed, add the egg yolk mixture a
little at a time, waiting until each addition is blended in before
Approximate weight: 3 lb 1600 g adding more.
5. Whip the cream to soft peaks. Fold into the mascarpone mixture.

TIRAMISÙ
Tiramisù has become so popular that many people think it must be an old, classic Italian dessert. Some have even
argued that it dates back hundreds of years, to the Renaissance period. In fact, no printed recipes for tiramisù
appear until the latter part of the twentieth century, so probably the cake as we know it today is a recent invention.
The cake has been widely copied and modified. There are hundreds of different recipes for it, and almost the only
thing they have in common is mascarpone cheese.
The word tiramisù means “pick-me-up,” in reference to the two ingredients in it that contain caffeine,
coffee, and cocoa.
468 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

BANANIER
Components PROCEDURE
1. Line a 61⁄2-in. (16-cm) ring mold with a strip of acetate.
Joconde Sponge (p. 405)
2. Cut two 6-in. (15-cm) circles from a sheet of joconde sponge. Cut one strip of joconde to line
Rum Syrup (p. 255)
the side of the ring mold, making it slightly narrower than the height of the ring so the filling
Lime Chiboust (p. 266), will show above it. Caramelize the sponge strip and circles according to the Procedure for
7 oz (200 g) Caramelizing Sponge on page 445.
Caramelized Banana Slices 3. Brush the caramelized sponge strip and circles with rum syrup. Line the mold with the strip of
(below) sponge and place it on a cake card. Place one sponge circle in the bottom.
Banana Mousse (p. 535), 4. Prepare the lime chiboust. Before it sets, use it to fill the ring nearly half full, then place the
7 oz (200 g) second sponge circle on top and press down gently.
Chocolate spray (p. 637) 5. Arrange the banana slices on top of the sponge.
Apricot Glaze (p. 194) 6. Prepare the banana mousse. Before it sets, fill the mold to the top and then level it with a
Decoration palette knife.
Chocolate fans 7. Place in the freezer for 45 minutes, to set.
Slices of lime and banana 8. Lay a decorative stencil on top of the cake and spray with a chocolate sprayer.
9. Coat the top with apricot glaze.
10. Garnish as desired. The cake in the illustration is garnished with 2 chocolate fans and slices of
lime and banana coated with apricot glaze.

Caramelized
Apricot glaze banana slices Banana mousse

Caramelized joconde Joconde sponge Lime

sponge moistened with chiboust
rum-flavored syrup

CARAMELIZED BANANA SLICES FOR BANANIER

Ingredients PROCEDURE
1. Cut the banana into slices 1⁄2 in. (1 cm) thick.
1 banana
2. Heat the sugar in a small sauté pan and add the banana slices. Heat them quickly until
Brown sugar, 1 oz (30 g)
caramelized on both sides but not soft.
Butter, 2 tsp (10 g)
3. Swirl in the butter.
4. Place the banana slices on a sheet of parchment paper to cool.
 PROCEDURES FOR SPECIALTY CAKES 469

Swiss Rolls
Swiss rolls are made up in much the same way as American jelly rolls, except Swiss rolls are usu-
ally more delicate. They can be made with a great variety of fillings and are often iced and
decorated.

GENERAL PROCEDURE: Making Swiss Rolls

1. Bake Swiss roll sponge as directed in the formula (p. 401 • Brush with apricot glaze, then ice with fondant.
or 402). Turn out onto a sheet of parchment and carefully • Coat with melted chocolate.
peel the paper off the back of the sponge. Cool it
• Coat with a sheet of marzipan or rolled fondant (see
partially covered so the cake does not dry out. (You may
pp. 447–448), using apricot jam or glaze to make the
also moisten the cake with dessert syrup.)
coating stick.
2. Trim the edges with a sharp knife (crusty edges do not
• Spread with a thin layer of buttercream, then coat
roll well).
with marzipan.
3. Spread with the desired filling, such as:
• Spread with buttercream, then roll in coconut or
Jam or jelly chopped nuts.
Buttercream (pp. 418–422) 7. Swiss rolls may be sold as whole cakes or cut into
Ganache (pp. 272–273) individual slices.
Chocolate Mousse (p. 273, and pp. 537–538)
Pastry cream variations (pp. 262–26 3) VA R I AT I O N : H A L F R O L LS
Whipped cream 1. Before icing the outside of the roll, chill the roll to make
Lemon Filling (p. 300) it firmer.
Chopped fruits or nuts may be mixed with buttercream 2. Cut a sheet of baked short pastry or sponge cake into 2
or pastry cream. strips, each as long and as wide as the sponge roll.
Spread the strips with a thin layer of icing or jam.
4. If any items—such as fruit pieces or a thin rope of
marzipan—are to be rolled into the center of the roll, 3. With a sharp knife, carefully cut the chilled sponge roll in
place these along one edge of the sheet on top of the half lengthwise.
filling. Begin rolling from this edge. 4. Mount each half cut side down on one of the prepared
5. With the aid of the sheet of parchment under the sponge or short dough bases.
sponge, roll up the cake tightly. 5. Ice and decorate as in the basic procedure.
6. Ice or cover the outside of the roll as desired. For
example:

ALMOND SWISS ROLLS

Components PROCEDURE
1. Spread plain Swiss roll sponge with apricot jam, then with almond pastry cream.
Swiss Roll sponge (p. 402)
2. Roll up.
Apricot jam
3. Brush with apricot glaze and ice with white fondant.
Almond pastry cream
4. While the fondant is soft, lay a row of toasted almonds along the top of the roll.
Apricot Glaze (p. 194)
White poured fondant
Toasted almonds
470 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

BLACK FOREST ROLL

Components PROCEDURE
1. Fit a pastry bag with a plain tube and fill it with the whipped cream.
Whipped cream fortified
with gelatin (p. 256) and 2. Pipe strips of cream about 3⁄8 in. (1 cm) apart on a sheet of chocolate Swiss roll so the strips
flavored with kirsch run the length of the roll.
Chocolate Swiss Roll 3. Fill in the spaces between the strips with cherries.
sponge (p. 402) 4. Roll up.
Dark sweet cherries, well 5. Coat with additional cream and then with chocolate shavings.
drained
Chocolate shavings

BÛCHE DE NOËL (CHOCOLATE CHRISTMAS ROLL)

Components PROCEDURE
1. Spread plain or chocolate Swiss roll sponge with chocolate buttercream.
Plain or Chocolate Swiss
Roll sponge (p. 402) 2. Roll up.
Chocolate Buttercream 3. The finished roll is intended to look like a log. To create this effect, first spread the ends with
(p. 418) white buttercream. Then, using a paper cone, pipe on a spiral of chocolate buttercream or
other chocolate icing to look like the end grain of wood.
Vanilla Buttercream
(p. 419) 4. Ice the rest of the roll with chocolate buttercream to resemble bark, either by using a pastry
bag with a flattened star tube or by spreading on the cream and then texturing it with an icing
Meringue Mushrooms
comb.
(p. 346)
5. Decorate with meringue mushrooms.

HARLEQUIN ROLL
Components PROCEDURE
1. On a sheet of plain Swiss roll sponge, pipe alternating rows of vanilla and chocolate
Plain Swiss Roll sponge
buttercream until the roll is completely covered with stripes of buttercream running the
(p. 402)
length of the roll.
Vanilla Buttercream
2. Roll up.
(p. 419)
3. Coat with apricot glaze.
Chocolate Buttercream
(p. 418) 4. Cover with chocolate rolled fondant or marzipan colored with cocoa.
Apricot Glaze (p. 194)
Chocolate rolled fondant,
or marzipan colored
with cocoa
 PROCEDURES FOR SPECIALTY CAKES 471

MOCHA ROLL
Components PROCEDURE
1. Spread plain Swiss roll sponge with buttercream and sprinkle with chocolate shavings.
Plain Swiss Roll sponge
(p. 402) 2. Roll up.
Coffee buttercream 3. Ice with more buttercream. Decorate by drizzling chocolate over the icing.
(p. 419)
Chocolate shavings
Chocolate for drizzling

PRALINE GANACHE ROLL

Components PROCEDURE
1. Spread plain Swiss roll sponge with praline buttercream.
Plain Swiss Roll sponge
(p. 402) 2. Using a large plain tube, pipe a strip of ganache along one edge.
Praline Buttercream 3. Roll up so the ganache is in the center.
(p. 419) 4. Cover with more buttercream. Coat with chopped or sliced hazelnuts.
Ganache (p. 272)
Chopped or sliced hazelnuts

STRAWBERRY CREAM ROLL

Components PROCEDURE
1. Spread plain Swiss roll sponge with flavored pastry cream.
Plain Swiss Roll sponge
(p. 402) 2. Place a row of fresh strawberries along one edge.
Pastry cream (p. 263) flavored 3. Roll up so the strawberries are in the center. Dust with confectioners’ sugar.
with orange flavor or orange
liqueur
Fresh strawberries
Confectioners’ sugar

Small Cakes
Small fancy cakes in individual portion sizes can be made in many shapes and flavors. In some
American bakeshops, these are known as French pastries. Using a variety of cakes, icings, fillings,
and decorations, a baker can make an unlimited variety of small, attractive cakes. This section
briefly describes some of the more popular varieties.

Slices
These are simply portion-size slices of rectangular strip cakes (p. 444), Swiss rolls (p. 469), and
half rolls (p. 469). An important part of the appearance of slices is the pattern made by the icing
and filling layers. Therefore, it is important to cut the slices carefully and neatly.
For best results, chill or freeze the rolls or strips before slicing so the fillings and icings are
firm. Use a sharp knife. Wipe the knife clean and dip it into hot water before each cut.
Slices may be lined up on trays or placed in individual paper cases for display.

Triangles
To make triangles, sandwich together four or five layers of 1⁄4-inch (6-mm) thick sponge (such as
Swiss roll sponge or seven-layer sponge) with buttercream in a contrasting color. Press the layers
together firmly. Chill to solidify the cream. Cut the cake into strips 2 to 21⁄2 inches (5 to 6 cm) wide.
472 C H A P T E R 17 ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES

Place a strip at the edge of the bench and, using a sharp knife, cut diagonally into triangles
(a). Turn the triangles so the layers are vertical (b). Attach them back to back with a layer of but-
tercream to form a larger triangle (c).
Coat with marzipan, chocolate glaçage, or icing. Cut into slices.

Squares
Layer two or three sheets of cake and icing or filling so that the assembled layers are 11⁄2 to
13⁄4 inches (4 cm) high. Press the layers together firmly. Chill until the filling is firm.
A Cut the cake into small squares, 2 inches (5 cm) across or less. Ice the sides, then the top,
with buttercream. Decorate as desired.

Petits Fours
The term petit four can be used to refer to almost any small cake or pastry item small enough to
be eaten in one or two bites. Petit in French means “little” and four means “oven.” Most petits
fours are small baked items, although a few are not baked.
Petits fours are divided into two categories: Petits fours secs (sec means “dry”) include a vari-
ety of small, dainty cookies, baked meringues, macaroons, and puff pastry products. These will
B be discussed further in the next chapter.
Petits fours glacés are iced petits fours (glacé means, in this case, “iced”). This category
includes such items as tiny éclairs, tartlets, filled meringues, and cakes. In fact, nearly any iced or
creamed pastry or cake item may be called a petit four as long as it is small enough to be eaten in
one or two bites.
In North America, the usual type of petit four is a cake cutout iced with fondant. In fact, most
people are probably not aware of any other kind. Because of its popularity, the fondant-glazed
petit four should be in the repertoire of every pastry cook. See the general Procedure for Making
Fondant-Iced Petits Fours below.
C

PROCEDURE: Making Fondant-Iced Petits Fours

1. Select a firm, close-grained cake. Cake that is too coarse, 7. Using appropriate cutters, cut out small squares,
soft, or crumbly is difficult to cut evenly into small rectangles, diamonds, ovals, circles, or other shapes.
shapes. Of the formulas in this book, Almond Cake for Remember to keep them small—no more than 1 in.
Petits Fours (p. 395) is recommended. Other suitable (2.5 cm) across.
choices are Almond Sponge II (p. 401) and Pound Cake 8. Prepare fondant for icing. Thin the fondant with simple
(see the variation for petits fours on p. 394). For one syrup so it will coat the cakes with a very thin layer. You
sheet of petits fours you will need 3 sheets of cake, 1⁄4 in. may also color it very lightly.
(6 mm) thick each. The finished, iced petits fours should
9. Place the petits fours 1 in. (2.5 cm) apart on an icing
be no more than 1 in. (2.5 cm) high.
grate over a tray. Pour the fondant over each one,
2. Lay one sheet of cake on a sheet pan and spread with a making sure to cover the top and sides completely.
thin layer of hot apricot jam or of buttercream. Top with
Alternatively, you may dip each cake in warm fondant.
the second sheet.
Push the cake upside down into the fondant until the
3. Repeat with the third sheet. Spread the top with a thin bottom is level with the icing. With two chocolate forks
layer of jam or the same filling used between the layers. (see p. 627), one on the bottom and one on the top, lift
4. Roll out a thin sheet of marzipan the same size as the the cake out of the fondant, invert it, and set it on an
cake sheet. Roll it up loosely on the rolling pin, then icing grate to drain.
unroll it to cover the cake. Run the rolling pin over the 10. When the icing is set, use chocolate, piping gel, or
top to make sure the layers are stuck together firmly. colored fondant to decorate the tops of the petits fours.
5. Place a sheet of parchment on top of the marzipan, then 11. As an interesting variation, before icing the petits fours,
place a sheet pan on the parchment. Invert the entire pipe a small bulb of buttercream on top of each cake.
assembly so the marzipan layer is on the bottom. Refrigerate to harden the buttercream. Then coat the
Remove the top sheet pan. petits fours with fondant.
6. Wrap the cake in plastic film and freeze. This firms the
cake so the neatest possible pieces can be cut from it.
 QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW 473

KEY POINTS TO REVIEW

❚ What is the procedure for making Swiss rolls?
❚ What are petits fours glacés and petits fours secs?
❚ What is the procedure for making fondant-iced petits fours?

TERMS FOR REVIEW

poured fondant glaze icing comb charlotte ring
buttercream marzipan paper cone charlotte
boiled icing rolled fondant drop-string method Black Forest torte
marshmallow icing modeling chocolate contact method Swiss roll
flat icing Boston cream pie marbling (icing) petit four
royal icing French pastry piping jelly petit four glacé
string work icing screen gâteau
flooding turntable torte

QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW

1. What is the most important rule to follow when using 7. Name four techniques you can use for partially or completely
fondant? Why? decorating a cake without using a pastry bag or paper cone.
2. What are the advantages and disadvantages of using butter 8. Briefly list the steps in assembling a typical basic European-
and using shortening in buttercream icings? style cake or gâteau.
3. What are the steps for assembling and icing a two-layer cake? 9. Describe how to cut cake slices to achieve the neatest results.
4. What method would you use to ice cupcakes with fondant? 10. Describe four ways to line a ring mold for a cake.
With buttercream? 11. What precautions must be taken when using fruit to line a
5. Why is the consistency of the icing important when you are ring mold?
decorating with a paper cone or pastry bag? 12. Describe the procedure for caramelizing a strip of sponge.
6. True or false: If you are right-handed, you should hold the top 13. Describe the procedure for covering a cake with a rolled
of the pastry bag shut with your right hand and squeeze the coating.
bag with your left hand. Explain your answer.