with
Patternmaking Basics: Suzy Furrer
The Bodice Sloper What You'll Need
Supplies & Resources
Page Title
SUPPLIES
• Awl
• Drafting curve
• Muslin
• Pattern paper and tag or poster board
• Regular and red pencils and eraser
• Scissors — paper and fabric
• Tape measure
• Tracing or carbon paper and tracing wheel
• Transparent ruler (2"x18" with grid)
• Transparent tape
• Pins and pattern weights
• Optional tools: Dressform; identifying stamps;
notcher; pattern hooks; pattern punch
RESOURCES
Instructor's website: www.apparel-arts.com
Building Patterns: The Architecture of Women's
Clothing by Suzy Furrer (Apparel Arts, 2008)
PATTERN-DRAFTING TIPS
Every pattern piece should be marked with: Every pattern piece should include
• Season • Grain line
• Style number or name • Notches to denote seam and hem allowances,
• Piece within the pattern, e.g., front panel, sleeve, dart legs and matching points
back facing • Awl punches to denote the base or top of a dart,
• Size pocket placement, corners, and other interior
• Cut quantity in self, contrast, lining, interfacing, markings. Dart points should be punched ½"
etc., e.g., “2 – self; 2 – lining.” inside the dart bulk. Circle the punch with red.
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Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper with Suzy Furrer What You'll Learn
Sample Measurements & Calculation Worksheet
RECORD OF CALCULATION WORKSHEET
MEASUREMENTS
14¼" ÷6= 23/8"
Name Size 8 Dress Form Neck Front 23/8" + ¼" = 25/8"
Back 23/8" + 3/8" = 2¾"
Date Shoulder 4¾"
Front Length 15½"
Neck 14¼"
Back Length 17"
Shoulder 4¾ Figure Length 8½"
Figure Breadth 8" ÷2= 4"
Front Length 15½
Cross Front 12½" ÷2= 6¼"
Back Length 17 Cross Back 13¼" ÷2= 65/8"
36 ÷4= 9"
Figure Length 8½
Bust Front 9" + ¼" = 9¼"
Figure Breadth 8 Back 9" − ¼" = 8¾"
29" + 4" or 5" = 34"
Cross Front 12½ Underbust /
2"
Cup Size Bust 36" − Underbust 34" =
Cross Back 13¼ Cup Size B
26" ÷4= 6½"
Bust 36
Waist Front 6½" + ¼" = 6¾"
Underbust/Cup Size 29/B Back 6½" − ¼" = 6¼
34" ÷4= 8½"
High Hip
Waist 26
at a depth of Front 8½" + ¼" = 8¾"
4½"
34 Back 8½" − ¼" = 8¼"
High Hip
37" ÷4= 9¼"
at a depth of Low Hip
4½
at a depth of Front 9¼" + ¼" = 9½"
8½"
37 Back 9¼" − ¼" = 9"
Low Hip
Side (as measured) 9"
at a depth of 8½ Armhole 16¾" ÷2= 83/8"
Exception: If Front
Side 9 Length is longer than Front 83/8" − ¼" = 81/8"
Back Length, add ¼"
to front armhole and
Armhole 16¾ subtract ¼" from Back 83/8" + ¼" = 85/8"
back armhole.
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Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper with Suzy Furrer What You'll Learn
Measurements & Calculation Worksheet
RECORD OF CALCULATION WORKSHEET
MEASUREMENTS
÷6=
Name Size 8 Dress Form Neck Front + ¼" =
Back + 3/8" =
Date Shoulder
Front Length
Neck
Back Length
Shoulder Figure Length
Figure Breadth ÷2=
Front Length
Cross Front ÷2=
Back Length Cross Back ÷2=
÷4=
Figure Length
Bust Front + ¼" =
Figure Breadth Back − ¼" =
+ 4" or 5" =
Cross Front Underbust /
Cup Size Bust − Underbust =
Cup Size
Cross Back
÷4=
Bust Waist Front + ¼" =
Back − ¼" =
Underbust/Cup Size
High Hip ÷4=
Waist at a depth of Front + ¼" =
Back − ¼" =
High Hip ÷4=
Low Hip
at a depth of at a depth of Front + ¼" =
Back − ¼" =
Low Hip Side (as measured)
at a depth of Armhole ÷2=
Exception: If Front
Side Length is longer than Front − ¼" =
Back Length, add ¼"
to front armhole and
Armhole subtract ¼" from Back + ¼" =
back armhole.
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Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper with Suzy Furrer What You'll Learn
Reference Charts
SHOULDER DART WIDTH SIDE DART WIDTH
Cup Size Dart Width Cup Size Dart Width
A /"
38
A ¾”
B ½” B 1”
C /"
58
C 1 ¼”
D or larger ¾” D or larger 1 ½”
WAIST DART WIDTH ARMHOLE DART WIDTH
Use difference between waist and low hip mea- Cup Size Dart Width
surements, not calculations. If in
between, round up to larger dart width A /"
38
Difference between waist B ½”
Dart Width
and low hip measurements
C /"
58
14”–16” 1¼”
D or larger ¾”
10”–13” 1”
CENTER FRONT DART WIDTH
8”-9” ¾”
Cup Size Dart Width
2”–7” /"
38
A /"
38
0”–1” No dart B ½”
C /"
58
D or larger ¾”
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Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper with Suzy Furrer What You'll Learn
Sample Moulage
CONTINUED »
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Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper with Suzy Furrer What You'll Learn
Sample Sloper
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