GENERAL INFORMATION

IMPORTANT INFORMATION 1
Section 1C - General Information C
Table of Contents
Table of Contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-1 Propeller Removal/Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-13
Special Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-2 Standard Models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-13
Serial Number Location . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-2 Power Trim System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-15
Conditions Affecting Performance . . . . . . . . . 1C-3 General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-15
Weather . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-3 Power Trim Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-15
Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-4 Trim “In” Angle Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-16
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-5 Trim Tab Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-17
Following Complete Submersion . . . . . . . . . . 1C-6 Compression Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-18
Submerged While Running . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-6 Cylinder Leakage Testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-19
Salt Water Submersion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-6 Analysis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-20
Fresh Water Submersion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-6 Water Pressure Measurement . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-21
Model 115 (4-Stroke) Powerhead Views Painting Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-22
Front View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-7 Cleaning & Painting Aluminum Propellers
Starboard View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-8 & Gear Housings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-22
Port View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-9 Decal Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-23
Top View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-10 Decal Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-23
Aft View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-11 Instructions for “Wet” Application . . . . . . . 1C-23
Propeller Selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1C-12

90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001 Page 1C-1

GENERAL INFORMATION

Special Tools
1. Compression Gauge MT26J (Snap-on) Adaptor MT26J300 (Snap-on) (or equivalent).

2. Water Pressure Gauge 91-79250A2.

3. Adapter P/N 22-86306.

4. Connector P/N 22-89772.

Serial Number Location

The Outboard serial number is located on the lower starboard side of the engine block. A
serial number is also located on the starboard side of the swivel bracket.
a OGXXXXXX
19XX
b
XXXX
c

e
XX
d

a - Serial Number
b - Model Year
c - Model Description
d - Year Manufactured
e - Certified Europe Insignia

Page 1C-2 90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001

 GENERAL INFORMATION

Conditions Affecting Performance

Weather

Rated hp

Horsepower Loss
Due to Atmosphere
Conditions
Summer hp
Secondary Loss Due to
Propeller Becoming To
Large for Summer
Horsepower

RPM Drop Due

to Weather

ENGINE RPM Rated RPM

It is a known fact that weather conditions exert a profound effect on power output of internal
combustion engines. Therefore, established horsepower ratings refer to the power that the
engine will produce at its rated rpm under a specific combination of weather conditions.
Corporations internationally have settled on adoption of I.S.O. (International Standards Or-
ganization) engine test standards, as set forth in I.S.O. 3046, standardizing the computation
of horsepower from data obtained on the dynamometer. All values are corrected to the pow-
er that the engine will produce at sea level, at 30% relative humidity, at a 77° F (25° C) tem-
perature and a barometric pressure of 29.61 inches of mercury.
Summer conditions of high temperature, low barometric pressure and high humidity all com-
bine to reduce the engine power. This, in turn, is reflected in decreased boat speeds--as
much as 2 or 3 miles-per-hour (3 or 5 Km per-hour) in some cases. (Refer to previous chart.)
Nothing will regain this speed for the boater, but the coming of cool, dry weather.
In pointing out the practical consequences of weather effects, an engine--running on a hot,
humid summer day--may encounter a loss of as much as 14% of the horsepower it would
produce on a dry, brisk spring or fall day. The horsepower that any internal combustion en-
gine produces, depends upon the density of the air that it consumes, and in turn, this density
is dependent upon the temperature of the air, its barometric pressure and water vapor (or
humidity) content.
Accompanying this weather-inspired loss of power is a second but more subtle loss. At rig-
ging time in early spring, the engine was equipped with a propeller that allowed the engine
to turn within its recommended rpm range at full throttle. With the coming of the summer
weather and the consequent drop in available horsepower, this propeller will, in effect, be-
come too large. Consequently, the engine operates at less than its recommended rpm.

90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001 Page 1C-3

GENERAL INFORMATION

Due to the horsepower/rpm characteristics of an engine, this will result in further loss of
horsepower at the propeller with another decrease in boat speed. This secondary loss, how-
ever, can be regained by switching to a smaller pitch propeller that allows the engine to again
run at recommended rpm.
For boaters to realize optimum engine performance under changing weather conditions, it
is essential that the engine have the proper propeller to allow it to operate at or near the top
end of the recommended maximum rpm range at wide-open-throttle with a normal boat
load.
Not only does this allow the engine to develop full power, but equally important is the fact
that the engine also will be operating in an rpm range that discourages damaging detona-
tion. This, of course, enhances overall reliability and durability of the engine.
Boat
WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION
1. Proper positioning of the weight inside the boat (persons and gear) has a significant ef-
fect on the boat’s performance, for example:
a. Shifting weight to the rear (stern)
(1.) Generally increases top speed.
(2.) If in excess, can cause the boat to porpoise.
(3.) Can make the bow bounce excessively in choppy water.
(4.) Will increase the danger of the following - wave splashing into the boat when
coming off plane.
b. Shifting weight to the front (bow)
(1.) Improves ease of planing off.
(2.) Generally improves rough water ride.
(3.) If excessive, can make the boat veer left and right (bow steer).
BOTTOM
For maximum speed, a boat bottom should be nearly a flat plane where it contacts the water
and particularly straight and smooth in fore-and-aft direction.
1. Hook: Exists when bottom is concave in fore-and-aft direction when viewed from the
side. When boat is planing, “hook” causes more lift on bottom near transom and allows
bow to drop, thus greatly increasing wetted surface and reducing boat speed. “Hook”
frequently is caused by supporting boat too far ahead of transom while hauling on a trail-
er or during storage.
2. Rocker: The reverse of hook and much less common. “Rocker” exists if bottom is con-
vex in fore-and-aft direction when viewed from the side, and boat has strong tendency
to porpoise.
3. Surface Roughness: Moss, barnacles, etc., on boat or corrosion of outboard’s gear
housing increase skin friction and cause speed loss. Clean surfaces when necessary.
WATER ABSORPTION
It is imperative that all through hull fasteners be coated with a quality marine sealer at time
of installation. Water intrusion into the transom core and/or inner hull will result in additional
boat weight (reduced boat performance), hull decay and eventual structural failure.

Page 1C-4 90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001

 GENERAL INFORMATION

CAVITATION
Cavitation is caused by water vapor bubbles forming either from a sharp edge or angle on
the gear case or from an irregularity in the propeller blade itself. These vapor bubbles flow
back and collapse when striking the surface of the propeller blade resulting in the erosion
of the propeller blade surface. If allowed to continue, eventual blade failure (breakage) will
occur.
Engine
DETONATION
Detonation in a 4-cycle engine resembles the “pinging” heard in an automobile engine. It
can be otherwise described as a tin-like “rattling” or “plinking” sound.
Detonation is an explosion of an unburned portion of the fuel/air charge after the spark plug
has fired. Detonation creates severe shock waves in the engine, and these shock waves
often find or create a weakness: The dome of a piston, cylinder head/gasket, piston rings
or piston ring lands, piston pin and roller bearings.
A few of the most common causes of detonation in a marine 4-cycle application are as fol-
lows:
• Over-advanced ignition timing.
• Use of low octane gasoline.
• Propeller pitch too high (engine rpm below recommended maximum range).
• Lean fuel mixture at or near wide-open-throttle.
• Spark plugs (heat range too hot - incorrect reach - cross-firing).
• Inadequate engine cooling (deteriorated cooling system).
• Combustion chamber/piston deposits (result in higher compression ratio).
Detonation usually can be prevented if:
1. The engine is correctly set up.
2. Diligent maintenance is applied to combat the detonation causes.

51115

Damaged Piston Resulting from Detonation

90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001 Page 1C-5

GENERAL INFORMATION

Following Complete Submersion

Submerged While Running (Special Instructions)
When an engine is submerged while running, the possibility of internal engine damage is
greatly increased. If, after engine is recovered and with spark plugs removed, engine fails
to turn over freely when turning flywheel, the possibility of internal damage (bent connecting
rod and/or bent crankshaft) exists. If this is the case, the powerhead must be disassembled.
Salt Water Submersion (Special Instructions)
Due to the corrosive effect of salt water on internal engine components, complete disassem-
bly is necessary before any attempt is made to start the engine.
Fresh Water Submersion (Special Instructions)
1. Recover engine as quickly as possible.
2. Remove cowling.
3. Flush exterior of outboard with fresh water to remove mud, weeds, etc. DO NOT attempt
to start engine if sand has entered powerhead, as powerhead will be severely damaged.
Disassemble powerhead if necessary to clean components.
4. Remove spark plugs and get as much water as possible out of powerhead. Most water
can be eliminated by placing engine in a horizontal position (with spark plug holes down)
and rotating flywheel.
5. Change engine oil and filter as outlined in Section 1B “Changing Engine Oil”. Run
outboard for short time and check for presence of water in oil. If water present (milky
appearance) drain and refill as previously mentioned.
6. Pour alcohol into throttle body throats (alcohol will absorb water). Again rotate flywheel.
7. Turn engine over and pour alcohol into spark plug openings and rotate flywheel.
8. Turn engine over (place spark plug openings down) and pour engine oil into throat of
throttle bodies while rotating flywheel to distribute oil throughout crankcase.
9. Again turn engine over and pour approximately one teaspoon of engine oil into each
spark plug opening. Again rotate flywheel to distribute oil in cylinders.
10. Remove and clean intake manifold assembly (fuel rail, vapor separator, idle air control,
and throttle body assembly) and fuel pump assembly.
11. Dry all wiring and electrical components using compressed air.
12. Disassemble the engine starter motor and dry the brush contacts, armature and other
corrodible parts.
13. Reinstall spark plugs, intake manifold assembly, and fuel pump.
14. Attempt to start engine, using a fresh fuel source. If engine starts, it should be run for
at least one hour to eliminate any water in engine.
15. If engine fails to start, determine cause (fuel, electrical or mechanical). Engine should
be run within 2 hours after recovery of outboard from water, or serious internal damage
may occur. If unable to start engine in this period, disassemble engine and clean all
parts. Apply oil as soon as possible.

Page 1C-6 90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001

 GENERAL INFORMATION

Model 115 (4-Stroke) Powerhead Front View

c
e

a - ECM
b - Voltage Regulator/Rectifier
c - Air Temperature Sensor
d - Engine Wiring Harness Connector
e - Power Trim Relay
f - 20 Amp Fuse (2)
g - 30 Amp Fuse (2)

90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001 Page 1C-7

GENERAL INFORMATION

Model 115 (4-Stroke) Powerhead Starboard View

a b

l
c

d
k

f
m g
e

9
58566
a - Starter Motor j - Ignition Coil Cylinders #2 &#3
b - Lifting Eye k - Ignition Coil Cylinders #1 &#4
c - 30 Amp Fuse (2) l - Engine Water Temperature Sen-
d - 20 Amp Fuse (2) sor
e - Oil Dip Stick m - Access Port, Water Pressure/
f - Oil Filter Temperature
g - Anode Cover n - Adaptor (22-86306)
h - Tell-Tale
i - Water Pressure Control
Valve

Page 1C-8 90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001

 GENERAL INFORMATION

Model 115 (4-Stroke) Powerhead Port View

a a
b

58567

a - Lifting Eye (2)

b - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
c - Fuel Cooler
d - Fuel Pump
e - Fuel Filter
f - Shift Position Switch

90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001 Page 1C-9

GENERAL INFORMATION

Model 115 (4-Stroke) Powerhead Top View

b
a a

57870

a - Camshaft Gear (2)

b - Timing Belt
c - Lifting Eye (2)
d - Flywheel
e - Timing Belt Tensioner
f - Thermostat Housing

Page 1C-10 90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001

 GENERAL INFORMATION

Model 115 (4-Stroke) Powerhead Aft View

j
a

g
b

d
a - Spark Plug Cover
b - Ignition Coil Cylinders #1 & #4
c - Ignition Coil Cylinders #2 & #3
d - Tell-Tale
e - Fuel Filter
f - Fuel Pump
g - Electronic Fuel Injectors (4)
h - Fuel Rail
i - Fuel Regulator
j - Oil Fill Cap

90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001 Page 1C-11

GENERAL INFORMATION

Propeller Selection
For in-depth information on marine propellers and boat performance - written by marine en-
gineers - see your Authorized Dealer for the illustrated “What You Should Know About
Quicksilver Propellers... and Boat Performance Information” (Part No. 90-86144).
For best all around performance from your outboard/boat combination, select a propeller
that allows the engine to operate in the upper half of the recommended full throttle rpm range
with the boat normally loaded (refer to Specifications). This rpm range allows for better ac-
celeration while maintaining maximum boat speed.
If changing conditions cause the rpm to drop below the recommended range (such as warm-
er, more humid weather, operation at higher elevations, increased boat load or a dirty boat
bottom/gear case) a propeller change or cleaning may be required to maintain performance
and ensure the outboard’s durability.
Check full-throttle rpm using an accurate tachometer with the engine trimmed out to a bal-
anced-steering condition (steering effort equal in both directions) without causing the pro-
peller to “break loose”.
Refer to “Quicksilver Accessory Guide” for a complete list of available propellers.
1. Select a propeller that will allow the engine to operate at or near the top of the recom-
mended full throttle rpm range (listed in “Specifications,” preceding) with a normal load.
Maximum engine speed (rpm) for propeller selection exists when boat speed is maxi-
mum and trim is minimum for that speed. (High rpm, caused by an excessive trim angle,
should not be used in determining correct propeller.) Normally, there is a 150-350 rpm
change between propeller pitches.
2. If full throttle operation is below the recommended range, the propeller MUST BE
changed to one with a lower pitch to prevent loss of performance and possible engine
damage.
3. After initial propeller installation, the following common conditions may require that the
propeller be changed to a lower pitch:
a. Warmer weather and great humidity will cause an rpm loss.
b. Operating in a higher elevation causes an rpm loss.
c. Operating with a damaged propeller or a dirty boat bottom or gear housing will cause
an rpm loss.
d. Operation with an increased load (additional passengers, equipment, pulling skiers,
etc.).

Page 1C-12 90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001

 GENERAL INFORMATION

Propeller Removal/Installation
Standard Models
WARNING
If the propeller shaft is rotated while the engine is in gear, there is the possibility that
the engine will crank over and start. To prevent this type of accidental engine start-
ing and possible serious injury caused from being struck by a rotating propeller,
always shift outboard to neutral position and remove spark plug leads when you
are servicing the propeller.
1. Shift outboard to neutral position.

2. Remove the spark plug leads to prevent engine from starting.

3. Straighten the bent tabs on the tab washer.

a
a - Tab Washer

90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001 Page 1C-13

GENERAL INFORMATION

4. Place a block of wood between gear case and propeller to hold propeller and remove
propeller nut.

5. Pull propeller straight off shaft. If propeller is seized to the shaft and cannot be removed,
have the propeller removed by an authorized dealer.
6. Coat the propeller shaft with Anti-Corrosion Grease or 2-4-C Marine Lubricant with Te-
flon.

95

95 2-4-C Marine Lubricant with Teflon

IMPORTANT: To prevent the propeller hub from corroding and seizing to the propeller
shaft, especially in salt water, always apply a coat of the recommended lubricant to
the entire propeller shaft at the recommended maintenance intervals and also each
time the propeller is removed.
7. Flo-Torque I Drive Hub Propellers

e d

f
c b a

a - Thrust Washer
b - Propeller
c - Continuity Washer
d - Thrust Hub
e - Propeller Nut Retainer
f - Propeller Nut

Page 1C-14 90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001

 GENERAL INFORMATION

8. Flo-Torque II Drive Hub Propellers

f e

d b a
c
a - Forward Thrust Hub
b - Replaceable Drive Sleeve
c - Propeller
d - Rear Thrust Hub
e - Propeller Nut Retainer
f - Propeller Nut
9. Place a block of wood between gear case and propeller and torque propeller nut to 55
lb-ft (75 Nm), aligning flat sides of the propeller nut with tabs on the tab washer.
10. Secure propeller nut by bending three of the tabs into the thrust hub grooves.
a b

b
a

a b
a - Thrust Hub Grooves
b - Tabs
Propeller Nut Torque
55 lb-ft (75 Nm)

11. Reinstall spark plug leads.

Power Trim System

General Information
The power trim system is filled at the manufacturer and is ready for use.
Trim outboard through entire trim and tilt range several times to remove any air from the sys-
tem.
The trim system is pressurized and is not externally vented.
Power Trim Operation
With most boats, operating around the middle of the “trim” range will give satisfactory re-
sults. However, to take full advantage of the trimming capability there may be times when
you choose to trim your outboard all the way in or out. Along with an improvement in some
performance aspects comes a greater responsibility for the operator, and this is being aware
of some potential control hazards. The most significant control hazard is a pull or “torque”
that can be felt on the steering wheel or tiller handle. This steering torque results from the
outboard being trimmed so that the propeller shaft is not parallel to the water surface.

90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001 Page 1C-15

GENERAL INFORMATION

WARNING
Avoid possible serious injury or death. When the outboard is trimmed in or out be-
yond a neutral steering condition, a pull on the steering wheel or tiller handle in ei-
ther direction may result. Failure to keep a continuous firm grip on the steering
wheel or tiller handle when this condition exists can result in loss of boat control
as the outboard can turn freely. The boat can now “spin out” or go into a very tight
maximum turn which, if unexpected, can result in occupants being thrown within
the boat or out of the boat.
Consider the following lists carefully:
TRIMMING IN OR DOWN CAN:
1. Lower the bow.
2. Result in quicker planing off, especially with a heavy load or a stern heavy boat.
3. Generally improve the ride in choppy water.
4. Increase steering torque or pull to the right (with the normal right hand rotation propel-
ler).
5. In excess, lower the bow of some boats to a point where they begin to plow with their
bow in the water while on plane. This can result in an unexpected turn in either direction
called “bow steering” or “over steering” if any turn is attempted or if a significant wave
is encountered.

WARNING
Avoid possible serious injury or death. Adjust outboard to an intermediate trim po-
sition as soon as boat is on plane to avoid possible ejection due to boat spin-out.
Do not attempt to turn boat when on plane if outboard is trimmed extremely in or
down and there is a pull on the steering wheel or tiller handle.
TRIMMING OUT OR UP CAN:
1. Lift the bow higher out of the water.
2. Generally increase top speed.
3. Increase clearance over submerged objects or a shallow bottom.
4. Increase steering torque or pull to the left at a normal installation height (with the normal
right hand rotation propeller).
5. In excess, cause boat “porpoising” (bouncing) or propeller ventilation.
6. Cause engine overheating if any water intake holes are above the water line.
Trim “In” Angle Adjustment
Some outboard boats, particularly some bass boats, are built with a greater than normal
transom angle which will allow the outboard to be trimmed further “in” or “under”. This great-
er trim “under” capability improves acceleration, reduces the angle and time spent in a bow
high boat position during planing off, and in some cases, may be necessary to plane off a
boat with aft live wells (given the variety of available propellers and height range of engine
installations).
However, once on plane, the engine should be trimmed to a more intermediate position to
a avoid a bow-down planing condition called “plowing”. Plowing can cause “bow steering”
or “over steering” and inefficiently consumes horsepower. In this condition, if attempting a
turn or encountering a diagonal, moderate wake, a more abrupt turn than intended may re-
sult.

Page 1C-16 90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001

 GENERAL INFORMATION

In rare circumstances, the owner may decide to limit the trim in. This can be accomplished
by repositioning the tilt stop pins into whatever adjustment holes in the transom brackets
is desired.

WARNING
Avoid possible serious injury or death. Adjust outboard to an intermediate trim po-
sition as soon as boat is on plane to avoid possible ejection due to boat spin-out.
Do not attempt to turn boat when on plane if outboard is trimmed extremely in or
down and there is a pull on the steering wheel or tiller handle.
If an adjustment is required, purchase a stainless steel tilt pin (P/N 17-49930A1) and insert
it through whatever pin hole is desired. The non-stainless steel shipping bolt should not be
used in this application other than on a temporary basis.

a - Optional Tilt Pin

Trim Tab Adjustment

Propeller steering torque will cause your boat to pull in one direction. This steering torque
is a normal thing that results from your outboard not being trimmed so the propeller shaft
is parallel to the water surface. The trim tab can help to compensate for this steering torque
in many cases and can be adjusted within limits to reduce any unequal steering effort.
NOTE: Trim tab adjustment will have little effect reducing steering torque if the outboard is
installed with the anti-ventilation plate approximately 2 inches (50mm) or more above the
boat bottom.
Operate your boat at normal cruising speed, trimmed to desired position. Turn your boat left
and right and note the direction the boat turns more easily.
If adjustment is necessary, loosen trim tab bolt and make small adjustments at a time. If the
boat turns more easily to the left, move the trailing edge of trim tab to the left. If the boat turns
more easily to the right move the trailing edge of trim tab to the right. Retighten bolt and
retest.

a - Trim Tab

90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001 Page 1C-17

GENERAL INFORMATION

Compression Check
CAUTION
Before removing the spark plugs, use compressed air to blow away dirt accumu-
lated in the spark plug well.
NOTE: Use Snap-on compression gauge with adaptor (or equivalent) MT26J-MT26J300.
Spark plug size is 14 mm.
IMPORTANT: Compression check should be done with throttle in WOT position.
1. Check valve clearance (refer to “Valve Clearance Adjustment” in section 4A), adjust
if out of specification.
2. Warm up the engine.
3. Remove all spark plugs.
4. Lubricate threads in cylinder head and on compression gauge. Install compression
gauge in spark plug hole.

110
110

b a

P/N MT26J/MT26J300

110 4-Stroke Outboard Oil

a - Compression Gauge (MT26J - Snap-on)
b - Adaptor (MT26J300 - Snap-on)

5. Hold throttle plate at W.O.T.

6. Crank the engine over until the compression reading peaks on the gauge. Record the
reading.
7. Check and record compression of each cylinder. The highest and lowest reading
recorded should not differ by more than 15% (see example chart below). A reading
below 120 psi might indicate a total engine wear problem.

Compression Pressure (Minimum)

138 psi (950 Kpa, 9.5 kg/cm2)

Example of compression test differences:

Maximum (psi) Minimum (psi)

180 162
150 127.5

Page 1C-18 90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001

 GENERAL INFORMATION

8. Remove compression gauge.

9. Install spark plugs.
NOTE: Compression check is important because an engine with low or uneven compres-
sion cannot be tuned successfully to give peak performance. It is essential, therefore, that
improper compression be corrected before proceeding with an engine tuneup.

Cylinder Leakage Testing

NOTE: Cylinder leakage testing, along with compression testing, can help the mechanic
pinpoint the source of a mechanical failure by gauging the amount of leakage in an engine
cylinder. Refer to the manufactures tester instructions for proper testing procedures.
NOTE: Cylinders #1 and #4 TDC positions should show TDC mark on flywheel with timing
marks (f). Cylinders #2 and #3 TDC positions should show TDC mark alone (g).

#1

P/N MT324
b
#2 f
e
g
c
#3

d
#4

a - TDC for Cylinder #1 e - Cylinder Leakage Tester

b - TDC for Cylinder #2 (Snap-On-Tools MT324)
c - TDC for Cylinder #3 f - Flywheel Position For Arrow Positions #1 & #4
d - TDC for Cylinder #4 g - Flywheel Position For Arrow Positions #2 & #3
NOTE: Spark plug hole is a 14 mm diameter. Use Snap-On Tool MT26J300 adapter with
valve core removed.

90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001 Page 1C-19

GENERAL INFORMATION

Analysis
Due to standard engine tolerances and engine wear, no cylinder will maintain a 0% of leak-
age. It is important only that cylinders have somewhat consistent reading between them.
Differences of 15 to 30% indicate excessive leakage. Larger engines tend to have a larger
percentage of cylinder leakage than smaller engines.
If excessive leakage is present, first check that the piston is at top dead center of its com-
pression stroke. Leakage will naturally occur if the exhaust or intake valve is open.
To determine the cause of high percentage leaks, you must locate where the air is escaping
from. Listen for air escaping thru the carburetor intake, adjacent spark plug holes, exhaust
pipe, and crankcase fill plug. Use the following table to aid in locating the source of cylinder
leakage:

Air Escaping From: Indicates Possible Defective:

Throttle Bodies Intake Valve
Exhaust System Exhaust Valve
Crankcase Fill Plug Piston or Rings
Adjacent Cylinders Head Gasket

Page 1C-20 90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001

 GENERAL INFORMATION

Water Pressure Measurement

1. Warm up engine.
2. Remove plug.
3. Attach adaptor, hose fitting and water pressure gauge to cylinder block.
NOTE: Water pressure measurements should be done on a warm engine with thermostat
operating 140°F (60°C).

Water Pump Pressure

24
22-86306 22-89772 22
20

Pump Pressure (psi)

91-79250A2 18
a 16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
0 1 2 3 4 5 6
rpm x 1000

a - Plug

90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001 Page 1C-21

GENERAL INFORMATION

Painting Procedures
Cleaning & Painting Aluminum Propellers & Gear Housings
WARNING
Avoid serious injury from flying debris. Avoid serious injury from airborne par-
ticles. Use eye and breathing protection with proper ventilation.
PROPELLERS
1. Sand the entire area to be painted with 3M 120 Regalite Polycut or coarse Scotch-Brite,
disc or belts.
2. Feather edges of all broken paint edges. Try not to sand through the primer.
3. Clean the surface to be painted using PPG Industries DX330 Wax and Grease Remover
or equivalent (Xylene or M.E.K.).
4. If bare metal has been exposed, use Mercury/Quicksilver Light Gray Primer.
5. Allow a minimum of 1 hour dry time and no more than 1 week before applying the finish
coat.
6. Apply the finish coat using Mercury/Quicksilver EDP Propeller Black.
GEAR HOUSINGS
The following procedures should be used in refinishing gear housings. This procedure will
provide the most durable paint system available in the field. The materials recommended
are of high quality and approximate marine requirements. The following procedure will pro-
vide a repaint job that compares with a properly applied factory paint finish. It is recom-
mended that the listed materials be purchased from a local Ditzler Automotive Finish Supply
Outlet. The minimum package quantity of each material shown following is sufficient to
refinish several gear housings.
Procedure:
1. Wash gear housing with a muriatic acid base cleaner to remove any type of marine
growth, and rinse with water, if necessary.
2. Wash gear housing with soap and water, then rinse.
3. Sand blistered area with 3M 180 grit sandpaper or P180 Gold Film Disc to remove paint
blisters only. Feather edge all broken paint edges.
4. Clean gear housing thoroughly with (DX-330) wax and grease remover.
5. Spot repair surfaces where bare metal is exposed with (DX-503) alodine treatment.
IMPORTANT: Do not use any type of aerosol spray paints as the paint will not properly
adhere to the surface nor will the coating be sufficiently thick to resist future paint
blistering.
6. Mix epoxy chromate primer (DP-40) with equal part catalyst (DP-401) per manufactur-
ers instructions, allowing proper induction period for permeation of the epoxy primer and
catalyst.
7. Allow a minimum of one hour drying time and no more than one week before top coating
assemblies.
8. Use Ditzler Urethane DU9000 for Mercury Black, DU34334 for Mariner Grey, and
DU35466 for Force Charcoal, and DU33414M for Sea Ray White. Catalyze all four col-
ors with Ditzler DU5 catalyst mixed 1:1 ratio. Reduce with solvents per Ditzler label.

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 GENERAL INFORMATION

CAUTION
Be sure to comply with instructions on the label for ventilation and respirators. Us-
ing a spray gun, apply one half to one mil even film thickness. Let dry, flash off for
five minutes and apply another even coat of one half to one mil film thickness. This
urethane paint will dry to the touch in a matter of hours, but will remain sensitive
to scratches and abrasions for a few days.
9. The type of spray gun used will determine the proper reduction ratio of the paint.
IMPORTANT: Do not paint sacrificial zinc trim tab or zinc anode.
10. Cut out a cardboard “plug” for trim tab pocket to keep paint off of mating surface to main-
tain good continuity circuitry between trim tab and gear housing.

Decal Application
Decal Removal
1. Mark decal location before removal to assure proper alignment of new decal.
2. Carefully soften decal and decal adhesive with a heat gun or heat blower while removing
old decal.
3. Clean decal contact area with a 1:1 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water.
4. Thoroughly dry decal contact area and check for a completely cleaned surface.
Instructions for “Wet” Application
NOTE: The following decal installation instructions are provided for a “Wet” installation. All
decals should be applied wet.
TOOLS REQUIRED
1. Plastic Squeegee*
2. Stick Pin
3. Dish Washing Liquid/Detergent without ammonia. Do not use a soap that contains
petroleum based solvents.
** Automotive Body Filler Squeegee
SERVICE TIP: Placement of decals using the “Wet” application will allow time to posi-
tion decal. Read entire installation instructions on this technique before proceeding.
TEMPERATURE
IMPORTANT: Installation of vinyl decals should not be attempted while in direct sun-
light. Air and surface temperature should be between 60°F (15°C) and 100°F (38°C)
for best application.
SURFACE PREPARATION
IMPORTANT: Do not use a soap or any petroleum based solvents to clean application
surface.
Clean entire application surface with mild dish washing liquid and water. Rinse surface thor-
oughly with clean water.

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GENERAL INFORMATION

DECAL APPLICATION
1. Mix 1/2 ounce (16 ml) of dish washing liquid in one gallon (4 l) of cool water to use as
wetting solution.
NOTE: Leave protective masking, if present, on the face of decal until final steps of decal
installation. This will ensure that the vinyl decal keeps its shape during installation.
2. Place the decal face down on a clean work surface and remove the paper backing from
“adhesive side” of decal.
3. Using a spray bottle, flood the entire “adhesive side” of the decal with the pre-mixed wet-
ting solution.
4. Flood area where the decal will be positioned with wetting solution.
5. Position pre-wetted decal on wetted surface and slide into position.
6. Starting at the center of the decal, “lightly” squeegee out the air bubbles and wetting
solution with overlapping strokes to the outer edge of the decal. Continue going over the
decal surface until all wrinkles are gone and adhesive bonds to the cowl surface.
7. Wipe decal surface with soft paper towel or cloth.
8. Wait 10 - 15 minutes.
9. Starting at one corner, “carefully and slowly” pull the masking off the decal surface at
a 180° angle.
NOTE: To remove any remaining bubbles, pierce the decal at one end of the bubble with
stick pin and press out the entrapped air or wetting solution with your thumb (moving toward
the puncture).

Page 1C-24 90-881980 NOVEMBER 2001